Gardening in Waitaki October 1st 2025

Oamaru public Gardens.

October and Spring is in full windy swing here in Waitaki, with later blossoms now out, the bright pink upright Prunus Kanzan and the soft white-pink spreading Prunus Shimidsu Sakura, always looked great underplanted with a sea of forget-me-nots or deep blue “match heads” in my past large garden. Watch for Prunus trees sending shoots from below the graft, remove these promptly.  Rhododendrons and azaleas are bursting with colour as spring bulbs are finishing. Leave bulb foliage to die back naturally so it can store energy for next year. Large clumps can be lifted and divided to share.Shrubs & Perennials Trim winter-flowering ericas once flowers brown to encourage fresh green summer growth. Pinch back tall chrysanthemums now for sturdier autumn plants. Prune fuchsias because they bloom on new wood. Support lilies as they push up, mulch to keep soil moist but free-draining.                                       Feeding & Mulching:Weeding will be a full-time job this month. Clear annual weeds thoroughly, especially couch grass, which must be removed completely. After weeding, cover the soil with organic compost to suppress regrowth before planting annuals and perennials. Water new plantings in the morning to avoid fungal problems, and mulch to conserve moisture — pea straw works well around trees and shrubs. Feed roses, shrubs, and perennials now. Use a balanced fertiliser watered in, or mix homemade compost with blood & bone and a little potash. Old stable manure spread around (but not dug in) is excellent for roses. Keep fertiliser away from trunks and apply just beyond the dripline where feeding roots are most active.Delay hedge trimming until new growth firms up, including box hedging. Trim on overcast days to avoid sun scorch. Camellias can be shaped once flowering finishes; open the middle for light and airflow enough for a bird to fly through.. Lawns are lush and growing fast now but the strong winds will have dried them, soak, mow regularly and scatter unsprayed clippings lightly as mulch about the garden. Apply fertiliser just before rain, never on dry sunny days. New patches can be resown now — soil is warm enough for germination. Avoid fertilising new grass until well established. Vegetables & Herbs Direct sow veg seeds now, but thinly. Mix seeds with fine soil for even sowing. Protect seedlings from birds with shade cloth. Corn and pumpkins can be planted now with protection to allow for their long ripening season. Tomatoes can be planted closer to Labor weekend, those in tunnel or glasshouses thrive during our cooler nights, ensure good airflow and never leave leaves wet overnight. Cherry tomatoes do well in pots on sunny porches. Herbs will be flourishing:  Harvest often for fresh use or dry for winter. Most enjoy lime and aged stable manure. Mixed herb pots planted now make great Christmas gifts. Cheers Linda.

Tomato plants staked and protected.

Gardening in Waitaki 24th September 2025

October is already here, and Gardens across Waitaki are in full spring bloom. Blossoms, magnolias, rhododendrons, and azaleas are making a stunning show, while lawns and borders are bursting into life. Every week, something new appears, hostas unfurling, lilies pushing through, peonies stretching up, and perennial treasures like lily of the valley and Solomon’s seal. With soil warming and daylight lengthening, growth is leaping ahead. Thankfully, we received much-needed rain last week, so while moisture is in the ground, we need to keep it there by mulching around plants, trees and shrubs with compost. Compost will also support new roots while they develop to carry growth into the new growing season. Roses: If you haven’t already, feed roses, shrubs, and perennials do it now. Use a balanced fertiliser, blood & bone, or a homemade mix with sulphate of potash to encourage flowering and fruiting. Aged stable manure mixed with compost spread around the drip line of roses works wonders to carry them through their long flowering season. Always water powdered fertiliser in well. Roses appreciate being fed to encourage strong growth that resists pests and disease far better than weak, soft growth. Aphids (greenfly) can often be squashed by hand or blasted off with the hose. Birds will help too. If infestations are heavy, try a safe homemade deterrent, such as rhubarb leaf infusion mixed with a little detergent, effective on ornamentals but not for edible crops. Early morning watering is best, allowing plants and soil time to dry before nightfall, which reduces the likelihood of fungal problems developing. For new plantings, liquid feeding helps them settle and make strong feeding roots. Perennials & Ornamentals: Hostas, Take care not to damage emerging shoots. Keep them moist, feed with compost and blood & bone, and protect against slugs by spreading broken egg shells around them. Lilies & Peonies: Stake now before stems grow tall. Never let lilies dry out. Dahlias: Plant tubers now. Divide clumps if they’ve grown too large and replant or share with friends. Lavender – Growing strongly now, often free of spittle bugs early in the season. If they appear, dislodge with a strong jet of water. Camellias. Once flowering finishes, trim and thin branches to let in light and encourage next year’s buds. Sweet peas, plant in compost-rich trenches with climbing supports. Their scented blooms will reward you all summer. Watch grafted flowering cherries — remove any shoots from below the graft, or they will quickly overtake the ornamental top. Lawns:are growing fast now. Established lawns benefit from fertiliser applied just before rain. Avoid feeding newly germinated grass as fertiliser burns young seedlings. October is an excellent time to sow seed thickly to beat spring weeds, keep moist, and you’ll have a strong strike before weeds take hold. Fruit & Berries: Blossoms on apples, pears, cherries, and plums will be drawing in bees and pollinators. Raspberries and gooseberries are flowering too. Strawberries should be planted or already budding; they thrive in raised beds with compost-enriched soil and a layer of pine needles to suppress weeds and keep fruit clean. Currants are leafing up well and should crop strongly with good pollination. Herbs:are thriving in the spring warmth. If starting a new herb garden, choose a sunny spot, dig in lime and old manure, and plant away. Divide clumps as needed and harvest regularly to prevent plants from running to seed. Mixed herb pots make excellent Christmas gifts if planted now. Vegetables: Garden centres are brimming with seedlings — tomatoes, herbs, potatoes, beans, corn, pumpkins, and leafy greens. If you don’t yet have a veggie patch, claim a corner now: dig or rotary hoe, edge it neatly, and keep surrounding weeds down. Peas & beans – Plant now; peas will climb quickly on netting. Corn & pumpkins, Sow this month to ensure a long growing season. Carrots, Sow now for a crop before carrot fly peaks. If carrot fly is a problem, cover rows with insect netting from germination through April, or try Resistafly F1 seeds, which are more resistant. Avoid strong thinning as it releases the scent that attracts flies. Potatoes, Plant seed potatoes in well-prepared beds. Successive sowing, Plant small amounts often for a steady harvest rather than a glut. Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in Waitaki September 17th 2025

Magnolia Starwars

As I write these garden notes, we are still waiting for a good drenching spring Rain to give lawns and gardens a real boost, but blossom and magnolias are lighting up North Otago. Bees are humming again, and spring planting is in full swing. Blossoms & Trees: If you’re planning new gardens, now is the time to choose blossom trees. Prunus come in many forms, from tall grafts with clear trunks (great for driveways and walkways) to low, spreading forms for lawns. Always consider eventual height, spread, and root system before planting close to houses or paths – falling blossom, sticky underfoot, and autumn leaves can be a nuisance on paved areas. There’s a tree for every spot, so seek advice to match your choice to your garden. Weeds & Beds: deal with weeds early by hoeing or hand-pulling before they set seed. If you prefer not to use sprays, try natural alternatives that dehydrate weeds on hot sunny days. Annual weeds are easily managed, but perennials like convolvulus or couch will need persistence. Salt dissolved in hot water is an inexpensive, effective control for many annual weeds, but it is not systemic, so if washed off, it will need to be reapplied. Planting & Pots: This is the perfect time to sow seeds for summer colour, directly in the ground or in trays with a layer of seed-raising mix on top of potting mix. Transplant once seedlings have developed strong roots and hardened before planting outside. For baskets, choose shallow-rooted plants such as pansies, lobelia, small petunias, nemesia, or dwarf sweet peas, with slow-release fertiliser and water crystals added. Established potted shrubs may be rootbound – remove from pot, trim back roots, and re-pot with fresh mix and fertiliser. Roses and hydrangeas need deep pots to keep roots cool; lining pots with tin foil (shiny side out) helps prevent overheating. Ensure all potted plants have excellent drainage and consistent water. Shrubs & Flowers: Trim back winter and early-spring-flowering shrubs before new growth gets away. Layer azaleas, rhododendrons, magnolias, and other low growers by pegging a branch into the soil to root. Stake tall perennials such as delphiniums, peonies, asters, and phlox now, before they shoot up. Lavenders are making new growth; give them a dressing of lime, and trim lightly. Replace very woody, tired plants with fresh ones. Bougainvillea should be cut back once new buds appear, then fed and watered to encourage strong flowering. Tubular begonias can be set into damp sawdust or compost until sprouting, then potted on, but once in growth, never let them dry out until flowering finishes. Roses are leafing up, and aphids will appear soon. Rub them off by hand or leave for birds and predators; if spraying, wait until foliage hardens. Lawns: Feed established lawns just before or during rain to keep them lush. New lawns should be sown thickly to outpace weeds. Avoid feeding very new lawns; they need to push roots deep for strength. Keep mower blades high in spring to thicken grass. Vegetables: In the vegetable garden, plant lettuces in fortnightly intervals, get peas and climbing beans into sunny, manured ground with supports, and sow corn and pumpkins, protecting seedlings from frost. Keep mounding potatoes as shoots appear, and cover if frosts threaten. A quick potato guide: Waxy (boiling, salads, soups): Draga, Frisia, Nadine. All-purpose: Desiree, Rua, Vivaldi. Floury (mash, roast, chips, baking): Agria, Ilam Hardy, Red Rascal. Herbs are putting on fresh growth, prune back old stems, enrich the soil with compost and lime, and pick often to keep them producing. Fruit: Strawberries and rhubarb are stirring, mulch with manure-enriched compost, then straw, pine needles, or untreated lawn clippings. Blackcurrants can still be pruned; mulch with compost and potash afterward. September is full of promise: blossom, bees, new growth, and the thrill of planting for the season ahead. Take time to enjoy spring and all it offers, even between the showers, frosts, and the inevitable winds! Cheers, Linda

Root prunning potted plant.

Gardening in Waitaki 2nd September 2025

I loved early Spring in my past large graden.

"Tra La" Spring at last, thank goodness – the season of new beginnings. Pollen is about once again settling on every surface and no doubt there will be plenty of sneezing! Every day, something new pops up in the garden. Sweet peas, ranunculus, anemones, and tulips should be well up by now. Unfortunately, weeds are also off to a flying start. Hoeing or hand-pulling while they’re small is quick and effective. If spraying is needed, organic sprays work best on young weeds – apply on dull days to avoid upsetting pollinators. While weeding, I take stock of jobs needing attention: Staking delphiniums before they grow too tall. Removing mulch from around iris rhizomes and peony crowns. Pulling out self-sown plants and unwanted natives before they take hold Plants, shrubs, and trees will all respond to spring feeding now. Liquid feed perennials and bedding plants, and use a good general fertiliser for trees and shrubs. Exceptions are azaleas (feed after flowering) and tulips (which already store enough food in their bulbs – extra fertiliser only encourages leafy growth at the expense of flowers). Cut back old catmint growth if you haven’t already – I like to leave it over winter to protect the new shoots. It’s also time to “dress” the garden for late spring and summer. Think about colour – what shades you’d like and where they’ll look best. Concentrate on sunny spots to get bedding plants and perennials moving strongly. Why not plant wildflowers? This year I’m sowing wild flower seeds into egg cartons filled with seed-raising mix. The cartons can be buried directly into the soil, suppressing weeds at first and breaking down as seedlings grow. Roses There are still roses available, and they don’t always need to be planted together in a rose bed – they make excellent fillers in sunny borders. Roses bring beauty to the garden and to the home when picked for display. If you’re new to rose growing, don’t be put off by thorns and pruning. All that’s required is an occasional feed, deadheading spent flowers, a light summer prune after the first flush, and a harder prune in mid-winter. Ask for advice when buying to find the perfect roses for your garden. Lawns Early spring rain should arrive soon. Have lawn fertiliser ready and apply before or during rainfall – results will show quickly. Healthy lawns are fed often, leaving little room for weeds. Vegetables Sow carrot, spring onion, lettuce, brassicas, peas, and broad beans. It’s still too early for tomatoes, basil, corn, summer beans, and the pumpkin family.

Fruit Keep water up to all fruit bushes and trees during dry spells. Lift lower branches on gooseberry bushes to make picking easier as the fruit hangs beneath. Thin out branches before leaves arrive for easier access. Buds are swelling towards blossom burst as sap rises – what’s needed now is sunshine and bees for pollination.

Gardening in Waitaki August 20th 2025

As August nears drawing to a close, winter loosens its grip—though recent frosts remind us to stay cautious. Seedlings are quivering in the cold but, with frost cloth protection, are hanging on and soon ready to pot on. Growth has been slow, but weeds such as chickweed and bidibid are thriving—pull them now before they set seed. Elsewhere, violets are filling gardens with fragrance. Camellias, rhododendrons, and shallow-rooted shrubs may show yellowing from nitrogen deficiency after winter—correct with slow-release fertiliser and compost. Keep frost cloth handy for tender plants, mulch after spring rains to lock in moisture, and feed generously. Plants are pouring energy into new growth. The work you put in now with feeding, mulching, and tidying will carry your garden strongly into the season ahead. Magnolias take centre stage, their sculptural bare branches covered in stunning blooms. They thrive in acid soils alongside azaleas, rhododendrons, and camellias. Garden centres are full of choices: compact Magnolia Billowing Cloud (3m × 2.5m) for small gardens, or the taller Charles Raffill (7m × 5m) for larger spaces. Lavenders can be cut back as new growth appears. Old, woody bushes can be trimmed hard to encourage fresh shoots—if they don’t respond, replace them. New plants just need a light haircut, compost, and lime. Climbers are in bud now, so trim carefully. Delay pruning jasmines until frosts are over. Roses are moving fast—feed now to set them up strongly and reduce the need for spraying later. Many other perennials and shrubs benefit from feeding too, but avoid heavy fertiliser on South African and Australian natives. Hostas can still be divided before leaves emerge, while dahlias can be planted in sunny, free-draining spots. Ornamental grasses should be cut back now, and shrubs tidied, though take care with climbers and spring-flowering plants already in bud. Lawns are greening up and need attention after winter. Moss thrives in shaded, compacted, or acidic soils—apply sulphate of iron, rake out once blackened, then aerate and feed. A good spring start will help lawns withstand the predicted dry summer. Vegetable beds are waking up too. Plant seedlings later in the day when sun is softer, but water in the morning so soil warms before night. Sow green crops (mustard, lupine, barley, wheat) in unused areas, and dig them in while still lush and soft. Early seed potatoes can be planted now—protect against late frosts. Continue sowing seeds under cover, using soil, compost, and seed-raising mix. Cover trays with glass or plastic, allowing airflow, and feed seedlings weekly with diluted worm tea. Fruit trees and shrubs need a boost—apply potash-rich fertiliser to encourage strong crops. Plant deciduous trees and berry canes by early September. Thin raspberries by removing old and weak canes. Citrus, especially lemons, will appreciate a feed of citrus fertiliser and a good soak. Keep trunks free of grass and weeds, mulch well, and time spraying for dull days when bees aren’t active.

Cheers, Linda

Gardening in Waitaki August 13th 2015

Early spring is peeping out from winter, despite the harsh frosts. Snowdrops are always the first to push through the frost, followed by winter roses, early camellias, daffodils, and now plum blossom. If we don’t get a good dollop of rain soon, shallow-rooted shrubs and trees—such as rhododendrons, camellias, azaleas, and maples—will need watering to support their new growth. On mild days, it’s tempting to get planting and sowing. Remember that seeds need warmth to germinate, so protect them until the soil reaches a suitable temperature. Outdoors, sowing is best left until frosts are ending and bees are active. Plants budding up for flowers can be given a gentle liquid feed now to keep root growth strong. Diluted worm or comfrey tea is ideal for soft new growth, but any liquid food at a weak dilution will help. Roses benefit from liquid manure diluted to the colour of weak tea, applied around the roots. Finish all rose pruning by month’s end. Weeds & Invasive Plants: Weeds are on the move. With the ground still soft, hand-pulling or hoeing is easy—remove them before they seed. Now is the time to deal with invasives such as ivy, aluminium plant (Lamium), couch grass, convolvulus, and bindweed. Hydrangeas: New green growth at the base means pruning time. Cut all woody stems that flowered last summer back to the second bud from the bottom. Leave all other stems, as they will carry the new flowers. Pink hydrangeas prefer alkaline soils (pH > 8.5), while blue ones need acidic soil. To maintain strong blue blooms, grow in a large pot with acid potting mix if your garden soil produces pink flowers. Planting & Pruning: Keep planting roses, peony roses, and gladioli until September. Plant lilies immediately; they must not dry out as they make roots year-round. Cut back leggy lavatera and buddleia, they will bounce back quickly. Comfrey – A Garden Powerhouse: Comfrey’s deep roots draw nutrients from well below the soil’s surface, storing them in the leaves. These nutrients, especially potassium, promote flowering and fruiting. To make comfrey tea, harvest leaves (removing flowers and tough stems), chop them, and pack them tightly into a lidded, watertight container. Weigh them down with a brick or stone, then check every few weeks. The breakdown process produces a strong-smelling brown liquid—collect and store it in bottles in a cool, dark place. Refill the bucket with fresh leaves. Plant comfrey where it can spread freely, away from main garden beds, as it can become invasive. Lawns & Moss Control: Moss killers are a short-term fix—address the cause for lasting results. Common issues include: Waterlogging , Poor feeding (light green grass), Acidic soil (test and lime if needed). Shade from trees or shrubs, mowing too close. Sandy soil (improve with compost/humus) , Compaction from heavy use (aerate in autumn), DIY soil test. Pouring white vinegar over soil (fizz = alkaline). If no fizz, mix soil with water, then add baking soda (fizz = acidic). Small patches can be treated with sulphate of iron—moss will blacken, then rake out and re-seed. Apply your first spring lawn feed before rain is due. Vegetables: Harvest winter crops while they’re still at their best. Fold cauliflower leaves over and tie to protect from frost and keep florets tight. Prepare asparagus beds deeply with compost and good drainage; existing beds should be weeded carefully to avoid damaging crowns. Plant sprouted potatoes now for an early crop—try laying them on pine needles or comfrey leaves for extra nutrients as they decompose. Inland gardens may still be frozen, but you can prepare beds by digging in compost or humus. Fruit: Soak and mulch fruit trees and berry bushes—they have a lot of growing ahead. Cheers, Linda.

Asparagus popping through.

Gardening in Waitaki August 1st 2025

Going by my past notes, August often brings us one last true burst of winter before we can fully leap into spring. While we’re all eager for sunshine and blossoms, it’s worth remembering that plants and soil need a consistent cold spell to reset and perform at their best once growth kicks in. The downside to a late cold snap is the damage it can do to early new growth and tender fruit blossoms. To set fruit well, we need milder, sun-filled days so pollinators can do their job during that brief window when flowers bloom. Time to Dress the Garden: Cold or not, August is the time to get creative in the ornamental garden planning, planting out, shifting things around, and feeding. Liquid feed annuals and perennials that have been nursed through winter. Their roots are beginning to absorb nutrients, helping buds to plump and strengthen. Hydrangeas will be showing fat green shoots now. Prune flowering stems back to the second bud from the base, and leave all non-flowering growth as that’s where the new blooms will form. You can take hydrangea cuttings now—choose thick, woody stems about 12” long, cut on a slant. Dip in rooting hormone (optional), insert into damp river sand around the edge of a well-drained pot (not in the centre), water well and place in a sheltered spot. Roses , especially robust ones like Flower Carpet, can still be given their winter trim. If well established, they can be tidied with a hedge trimmer. Staking Trees: A Timely Reminder’ve noticed newly planted grafted trees in gardens with no stakes. While the soil is firm now and winter winds are few, come spring, we often face sudden gales. Without stakes, these tall trees can rock in the wind, disturbing the roots before they’ve anchored properly. Unstaked trees grow more slowly—or not at all. Now is the time to ensure any recent tree plantings are properly supported. Seed Sowing Underway: It’s an exciting time; seed sowing has begun in earnest. Under glass and in trays off the cold ground, I’m sowing: Cottage annuals like cosmos, cornflowers, love-in-the-mist, snapdragons, alyssum and more. Tender annuals will have to wait unless you have a heated greenhouse. If you’re already seeing new growth on overwintered plants, make sure to protect them from sudden frosts. Vegetable Garden: Now’s the time to sow seeds for vegetables that will be ready to prick out into punnets and plant once the soil warms. Sunny days and frosts help break down heavy soils and get beds in shape. Watch for birds! They’re hungry and nesting, and love tender new leaf growth—cover veg beds with netting or frost cloth to protect crops. Fruit Trees and Grape Vines: Fruit trees are now widely available in garden centres. All are grafted onto rootstock, which affects their eventual size: M26 – Ideal for espaliers and cordons M27 – The smallest rootstock, great for step-overs or growing in pots. Ask for help if you're unsure about labels or planting positions. Grapevine pruning should be completed soon, before the sap rises. Here's how to shape fruiting vines: Remove all new growth except the main fruiting leader. On the leader, prune side shoots back to two buds. Leave about a hand span between each fruiting shoot to allow fruit to size properly. If a shoot has double buds, remove the weaker one to concentrate energy into the stronger shoot. Peach trees: keep an eye on budburst, especially in warmer gardens. When it happens, apply a copper spray immediately to help prevent leaf curl. Scruff Update: Since moving yet again, Scruff has gone from ruling a large garden to ruling a smaller garden and now an even smaller garden, and to let all around know that he is still THE BOSS of all inside his fence and beyond! He’s taken it upon himself to still guard the entire neighbourhood. No cat, bird, dog or human is unnoticed under his watchful eye. In our large property, I could bellow at him to settle down without bothering a soul, but here, with neighbours all around, it’s me who’s been quietened. Scruff, of course, is happily maintaining his security post. Cheers, Linda.