Gardening in North Otago June 1st 2016

June already, with the shortest day just around the corner and snow on the  Kakanuis I am once again wearing thermals, gloves and woolly socks as leaves still fall and temperatures drop into winter. The rain last week was fantastic for dry North Otago and ground should remain damp now to boost spring growth slowly pushing through. Pea straw is still going on here to help retain that ground moisture.

Keep tiding up perennials that need to rest now, divide overgrown plants and plant rooted cuttings from the outer edges of perennial clumps, if you think the mother plant is past it's best dispose of it. 

Keep planting or shifting lilium bulbs, they should never become dry and are best planted in raised well drained gardens, as are early plantings of gladioli for November flowering. 

I see early roses on offer, the sooner they are out of plastic bags and in chilly air the better. The warmth of the packaging will have encouraged new shoots which will drop off as stems harden in cold air. Newly planted roses need pruned to out facing buds, bare rooted roses on sale are field grown and are all mass trimmed before lifting.

Root cuttings: If you've ever had problems propagating some of your favorite plants, Root cutting is worth trying to produce many perennial and woody plants, it is a straight forward process best done during the plant's dormant season between June and September.

Carefully remove dirt around the roots on one side of the plant, dig fairly close to the base of the plant to make sure you find healthy roots pencil thick belonging to the plant you are working on, take 2 to 6 inch cuttings and cut into 2 to 3 inch (6 to 7.5 cm) sections. 

To keep track of the cuttings top end and bottom end is to make a flat cut on top side, and a slanted cut on the bottom side. 

Plant in a deep pot, (frost free) with a little sand in the bottom of the planting hole, dust the bottom of each cutting with powdered sulfur to control fungi. Make sure that the tops of the cuttings are about 1 inch (2.5 cm) below the soil and cover with a layer of  coarse river sand or small gravel, water only when soil becomes dry.

For Perennial Plants.
It is usually easier to lift the entire parent plant, look for large fleshy roots, the thicker the better.Take 2 to 3 inch (5 to 7.5 cm) cuttings the same way as above, then replant the parent plant and water in. In three to four weeks your cuttings should be forming roots, and some even may start to push through new growth,when new shoots appear give them some liquid fertilizer at half strength.
List of Plants suitable for Root Cuttings.
Figs, Hydrangeas, Choysia, Poplar, Red and yellow twig dogwoods, old roses (non grafted), viburnum Snowball bush, Weeping willow, Yucca, Aster, Bear’s breeches, tall phlox's, geranium, globe thistle, hollyhocks, horseradish, aster, Oriental poppies,Primrose, Rhubarb, Sage, Sea hollies, perennial statice, Raspberry and Blackberry.

Lawns; Growth should have slowed right down now, if you noticed your lawn was hard and cracked during the dry summer spread gypsum during rain or water in to soften and turn clay content into soil. 

Vegetable On the coast Sow broad beans, garlic, shallots and rhubarb. Colder areas nothing much can be planted

Gardening in North Otago May 25th 2016

End of mellow May lands us into a new month bringing different gardening challenges with the start of winters chills.

I have had a busy Nana time in the past week and now need to play catch up in getting the garden ready for winter.

The ground should stay damp now but with if winds persist keep the water up and soak rhododendrons, azaleas, camellias and hydrangeas as they are the shrubs that suffer most during a dry spell, Keep a eye on maples as well, if leaves shriveled too quickly during colour change it's an indication of root dryness give these a good soak as well.

Rose flowering is coming to an end but don't cut spent flower heads off, leave all types of roses to make seed and harden wood before the big prune next month. Have some lime sulphur on hand for a clean up spray after pruning, or before if timing is better, (lime sulpher will hasten leaf drop.) use on all rose bushes and climbers as well as the ground where they are growing to kill all fungus and disease remaining from summer flowering. Lime sulphur smells like rotten eggs when first applied, is safe for bees and is also the spray to use for the removal of lichen and moss growing on branches of trees and shrubs.

New seasons bare rooted roses should be arriving in Garden centers soon so if you plan to plant a certain type of rose or shades ask a Garden center to hold them for you so you don't miss out. Prepare ground now by digging in old stable manure or bagged rose mix. If planting a rose in the same place a rose has been growing, you will need to remove the soil and replace with soil from another part of the garden, disease is transferred very quickly from one rose to another. Bare rooted, winter planted roses are less likely to suffer from planting stress.

Re-pot container grown buxus  if they look pot bound, buxus  root growth is prolific and they don't seem to suffer from the removal of half the root ball, replace potting mix with new. 

Winter colour in pots, plant polyanthus, pansies, primulas and snapdragons, a few poly's in a pot is all that's needed to brighten up any doorway. 

Lawns; The recent rains perked dry lawns up but growth should be slowing right down now bringing  lawns to that tuffty stage, here in this garden lawn mowers will still be on the go until the last of the leaves have been picked up. Next time it rains have some lawn fertiliser on hand and a week after feeding sprinkle some garden lime over lawns for a boost before they stop growing. Keep in mind for next growing season, lawn grasses grow best on a nutrient ratio of 3 parts nitrogen, 1 part phosphorus, and 2 parts of potassium. (12-4-8). While this is an ideal ratio you may not be able to find the exact ratio in a lawn fertilizer, a close match will do.  If ground pH is below 6 on the pH scale lime will make a marked improvement in growing conditions come spring.One sign of a low soil pH is the presence of excess moss and weeds in your garden or lawn. Moss and weeds are acid loving plants, though not a guaranteed indicator, an excess of moss and weeds is a good sign that you should raise soil pH. Another sign that you need to raise soil pH is when fertilizer doesn’t seem to be doing its job. Acidic soil prevents fertilizer from functioning properly, so no matter how much fertilizer you apply, you will see little to no results.

Vegetables:  On the coast Sow broad beans, garlic, shallots and rhubarb. Colder areas nothing much can be planted without protection.

Fruit:  Bare rooted fruit trees will be arriving in garden centers soon, ask if they will be stocking required trees and have them put aside on arrival.

Ground can be prepared now for planting, choose an open, sunny position, sheltered from strong winds. Fruit trees will grow in a wide range of soil types as long as there is good drainage.

Plums and pear root stock tolerate heavier soils than most other fruit trees. Using good quality compost will improve water retention in lighter soils and improve drainage in heavier soils as well as improving fertility. Pruning of newly planted fruit trees will not take place until trees have branched. During early stages of tree development, the main goal is to develop the shape and framework which will support the heavy crops of fruit. 

Pruning: 

Apple: After initial shaping of apple trees, the only pruning necessary is the removal of excess twiggy growth. Apple trees usually produce fruit on spurs, (short stubby growths attached to main branches). They continue producing on the same spurs for a number of years. Pears and cherry fruit also grow on spurs and require similar treatment. 

Apricot: Prune apricot trees in late winter or early spring as the new leaves and flowers begin to open. During this period of time the tree is actively growing and the pruning cuts heal quickly. Newly planted apricot can be pruned soon after planting. Remove all damaged or broken shoots and limbs and all branches with a narrow crotch (those that grow up more than out) and all branches that are within 18 inches of the ground, Shorten last year’s main branches to about 30 inches.

Peach and nectarine: These trees flower on new wood made the previous summer,  prune hard to encourage new growth otherwise, fruit will be produced further and further out on the branches each year. Flower buds are plump while growth buds are flatter.

Plum: Plum trees produce fruit on the same spurs for several years. Once shape has been established, they require little pruning because excessive pruning can over stimulate tree growth at the expense of fruit. Remove vertical branching and water sprouts regularly. Look at a tree and it is easy to distinguish the water sprouts from the regular growth they grow straight up from the canopy branches and trunk and are thin and scraggly in appearance. A heavy hand when pruning may increase the number of water sprouts on the tree. When pruning plum trees in the winter only remove 20 percent of the growth from the previous year.

Cheers, Linda. 

Gardening in North Otago May 17th 2016

"What a difference a rain makes" late Monday it came and more than the usual skiff and on Tuesday morn our garden had a whole different look.
A heap of work was done here in the garden this week, my ready compost went down fast as autumn leaves and annual weeds were removed it got shoveled on thickly over beds ready a layer of pea straw.

I have been potting up well grown seedlings before the nights get colder, because they are straight from seed trays the frost cloth has gone on and will remain on until spring.

remove water trays from pots now, the soil will stay damp from now on and should never be waterlogged through out winter as this will lead to plant roots freezing and rotting.

This is a great time to make new perennial beds or re-organise existing beds, with perennial clumps increasing in size annually they soon over fill a space. Lift overgrown clumps, break up and replant some of the youngest growths from the perimeter. Healthy vigorous plants can be reduced by putting a sharp spade in where you would like a reduction then lift the cut portion out without disturbing the plant remaining. I have been doing this with asters, phlox, aurbretia, small grass's, hosta's, and herbs like sage, thyme and lemon balm. Rockery plants can be divided now as well. Once plants have been sectioned and rearranged cover the bed and around plants with compost which will encourage new root growth and help to keep perennial beds warmer through the colder months.

All old leaves from my hellebores have now been removed, they are budding up for a winter display so a fortnightly liquid feed can be given now if you feel they need boosting. Further in land it would be advisable to leave some top growth on to give frost protection to soft new growth, once hardened remove all leaves to display flowers.

Lilies, this is the main time to shift or divide old over grown clumps of lilies. Be careful not to break the fleshy scales and to retain all the basal roots. Don't pull the old steams away from the bulb as it leaves a hole where water can enter and cause rot, just cut old stems short and bend. Never allow Lilly bulbs to dry out while out of the ground, I plant lilies on a little river sand and cover with compost which has had blood and bone added.

Vegetables and fruit .
Continue planting strawberry plants, raising the beds where drainage is suspect and adding manure rich compost to the beds.
Garlic planting time, It is said to plant garlic on the shortest day but any time from late May until August is ok. Select large single cloves (plant point up) 5cm deep and 20cm apart in warm, well-drained sites where soil has been recently limed.
Having been such a good ripening season apples are dripping from trees, it is best to pick apples for storing when not too ripe and store in a cool dark place
Start pruning pip fruit trees any time after the leaves have fallen, remove dead or damaged wood, crossing or inward turning branches, excess leaders or sucker growth developing on the main trunks. Shorten back vigorous leaders by about a 1/3 to promote branching. Prune long side branches back to a weak twig to discourage further spread.

Cheers, Linda

Gardening in North Otago May 12th 2016

A little rain last week but North Otago is still,  parched!  I spent time in Wanaka with family last weekend and the drive over and back was a visual treat, the Waitaki valley is a blaze  with Autumn colour.  Poplars had lost most leaves and the gold of the willows and birches had taken over turning even a dull day bright. I dug out a mass planting of bedding blue salvia  replacing with dozens of red tulip bulbs  stored from each year.  The saliva had taken a lot out of the soil so beds were dug and topped with compost and sifted soil along with a sprinkle of blood and bone before the tulips went in. Blue forgetmenot is coming on to plant along side the tulips for a spring display.  Pansy's, pollyanthus, primula and snapdragons filling out nicely for planting once gardens are cleared of the summer colour still flowering well because of the lovely warm days experienced.  Wisterias will need a cut back now, ours is growing along the upstairs balcony threatening to push through the sliding doors and take over the bedroom! I use the hedge trimmer to get rid of all the leafy wispy growth, cutting too hard back into  thick wood will remove new buds. Each long winding growth can eventually grow into a thick branch so if training a young plant let only one length go either way along a structure. I needed to be given that advice when planting the now multi branched extremely heavy wisteria we now have!   Seeds:I am still collecting seeds while pods are dry and saving them in paper bags and envelopes, I read that adding a sprinkle of rice will absorb any remaining moisture and help to keep seed dry and in good condition, worth a try. Compost again,  Balance all those leaves with layers of old compost/soil, straw, manure and grass clippings . Moisture is a must as well, if mix is dry add water during the heat of a day so the chill will be off before nights cooling. Decomposing will continue on until temperatures drops dramatically.  Fruit:  Tamarillos These delicious, tangy fruits ripen in autumn and winter and can go from pale green to rich ripe red in about a week. They are ripe when either a deep, dark red or golden orange/yellow depending on variety. Pick fruit individually by cutting stems. Once picked they keep well and will become sweeter after a week or so.   Citrus bushes would benefit from a rich layer of compost,  well-rotted manure, dolomite, seaweed, straw – whatever you have spread as a mulching layer around roots. Vegetables: Save seed from beans and peas and also a few of your herb and companion flower plant seeds for next spring.  Mold soil around the base of leeks to keep them pale and sweet, but keep it beneath the bottom leaf so it doesn't get inside the stems and make cleaning them difficult.  An application of lime now is a real benefit to many of the leaf crops – cabbage, spinach, kale, broccoli and silverbeet. In soon to be very cold areas  an insulating layer will help to prevent soil you plan to plant out in early spring from becoming water-logged once rains do come, use polythene, fertilizers bags, old carpet or underlay. Spring planting can be delayed for ages because of wet cold ground. Cheers, Linda. Click here to Reply or Forward 9.42 GB (62%) of 15 GB used Manage Terms - Privacy Last account activity: 3 hours ago Details

Gardening in North Otago May 4th 2016

The year is marching on! and May is the official beginning of winter for NZ but for me June is the start of winter because in my mind May is all about leaves and more beautiful leaves as we are dealing with right now. Leaves are natures soil food they fall to the ground creating humus but leaves falling around a garden and on lawns are usually raked up, this is why it is so important to add compost to gardens and lawns to put humus back. 

This week has been about getting water onto gardens because the ground is so seriously dry! and plants are showing signs of suffering. Shallow rooted plants like Hydrangeas, rhododendrons, camellias, roses and many ground covers have needed a good soak before compost can be added. Keep the water up to maples as well, they tend to die off in stages if ground stays continually dry, I lost three good sized maples growing on a slope after the very dry autumn & winter we experienced last year. 

I am adding to my compost daily layering with leaves, grass clippings, soft garden and hedge clippings, manure and established compost. Cold weather has a marked slowing down effect on compost organisms and any insulation wrapped around a bin will help them keep working, I do this on my heaps with a thick layer of straw. I do go on about compost don't I?

The cut back is still going on in my gardens and the compost / mulch is going on to provide food for the plants when they need it and also helps to keep the soil a little warmer for plant roots over winter. Once every plant, shrub and tree has been mulched and watered and leaves raked off gardens the pea straw will go on.

Keep planting tulips until the end of this month, plant them deep (10cm) because they like it cool, Tulips need a real chilling before they can perform well, If planting in a warm north facing garden planting needs to be deeper, around 15cm.  if you have a special tulips you would like to multiply plant them against a south facing wall and forget about them they will grow and multiply there for years. Also keep planting and dividing Lilly's keeping them damp at all times, there should be a good range of lillys in garden centres,

 Deciduous trees and shrubs will come into Garden centers at the end of June / July so look about gardens now and take note of the trees and shrubs that colour up beautifully, take a photo of what you admire and ask someone who knows about trees to identify. Now would be a good time to plan what you would like and where it would enhance the garden being an already established garden or the bones for a new garden, remembering to allow room to grow both up and outwards. If we do get rain soon to soften the ground it would be a good idea to dig the area in readiness. Dig out the soil add peat or compost and blood and bone to it then fill back in again until you are ready to plant. If you know which deciduous trees and shrubs you require order them now from the garden centre and you will not miss out.

Hydrangeas are deepening into rich shades as gardens head towards winter, l like to leave this colour for as long as it takes for them to look faded and untidy, this also gives stems time to harden off and once hardened off they can be shifted if needed. Really large bushes can be dug up and root cut or pulled into several individual bushes. In cold districts don't prune back until spring, leave the tops on to protect the new growth. I leave on until I notice new leaf buds opening then cut each stem with a flower head back to the second bud from the bottom leaving all stems that did not flower,

A start can be made on pruning very strong rambler roses by cutting out any dead stems and cutting back all side stems on canes to with in 2-3 buds from the main steam. Shorten back vigorous leaders by about 1/3 to promote branching. If the bush is out of control like some of mine reduce the size with a hedge trimmer then cut some canes right out from ground level.

Veg:
If worms are rare in your garden, this usually indicates that the organic content of the soil is very low, worms seem to always find manure but it needs to be spread as a layer low down under a soil bed for them to come up to it. This would be a daunting task to undertake in established gardens, although worth digging into trenched rows as veg is used, defiantly the way to go when establishing a new veg area where soil is dry and has clay content, the introduction of worms will make all the difference.
Fruit:
Continue planting strawberries, raising the beds where drainage is suspect, At the beginning of the past growing season I covered half my strawberry bed with polythene as commercial growers do and planted out with new runner plants pushed into slits cut in the polythene. They fruited quite well and weeds were not a problem but tended to dry out quicker than the other half which were planted with out polythene (among the weeds). I guess drip irrigation should be in place to get best results. Will cut back runners and trim old leaves then build up the bed with compost and leave to winter over.

Walnuts are dropping here daily, our tree provides very big nuts which need to be picked up every day because they are the favourite food of rats.They mostly fall in a green casing which comes off easily with the roll of the foot in a firm shoe. They then need to dry in the sun to stop mold and once really dry can be stored.