Gardening in Waitaki December 15th 2021

Christmas eve in the garden.

This column will be short because Christmas will be but a few days away when this is published next week.I am sure gardening will only come into play when it is time to dig the potatoes and carrots and pick the peas for Christmas dinner. What a treat to harvest your own produce, so worth all the work that goes into growing veg. In the flower gardens: Watering to keep gardens going will be needed over the festive season, a good deep soak will be kept longer in the soil if mulch is layered on top. Mulch on hand could be compost mixed with grass clippings or Arborist mulched green waste, sometimes referred to as forest floor, even hedge trimmings or foliage cut back from plants or shrubs layered among plants will keep moisture there longer and the hot sun from baking soil. This would be especially handy if going away for a break. Fruit trees are needing moisture to plump up fruit so a good soaking now and then and mulch if possible will ensure good crops.  veg Garden: It is a shame that at this very hot time of the year it is when most head off for a break needing to leave produce at it's best behind in the veg garden. I grow a lot of annual seedlings in pots and trays which I need to hold from drying out if I head off for a few days. I have found soaking them and then covering with shade cloth keeps them from drying out too soon. This could also work with veg plots, a good deep soak then shade created to stop that baking sun. Pumpkin plants are well on now so water needs kept up to them until enough large tough leaves have grown to shade roots. Corn should be putting on good growth as well, mulching around corn roots after a good soak will encourage good strong growth. Tomato plants will need support, only water around the roots, leaves need to stay dry. Removed leaves from the bottom to avoid soil splash which can lead to disease and a few higher up to let light into overcrowded plants. Tunnel and glass house doors can remain open to let insects come in connect with flowers for pollination. Garlic will be ready to harvest if it was planted on the shortest day, you will know garlic is ready to harvest when the bottom two leaves have died and a third is also showing signs of browning off. Some green leaves will remain so once dug from the ground leave the top green growth attached, plait into bunches and hang until all green tops have dried into the cloves. I wish you all a joy filled Christmas and a happy, safe 2022.  Cheers, Linda.

This will be me soon, all of you to I hope.

Gardening in Waitaki December 7th 2021

As I write rain is falling again, helping nature with the rapid growth here in North Otago, I spent last week out of town and on my return I could not believe the growth! In a week broad bean pods had filled ready for picking, strawberries ripened and potatoes and tomatoes foliage had doubled in size and trays of seedlings were ready for pricking out. I know you will be finding there is so much to be now cut back in the garden, plants like tree peony which doubles in size each growing season. Don't let tree peony swamp your garden and smother other plants. When finished flowering the older woody canes can be cut down to the second bud from the bottom leaving the new green stalks to be next year's flower branches. By doing this once flowering has finished seed pods will be cut off as well, if allowed to ripen they will pop all over your garden and grow. Other larger plants needing cut back will be bush lavatera's, English abutilon, ornamental broom, and false Valerian. These will all grow back soon and look a lot nicer, some will flower again. Keep deadheading roses spoiled by rain, they will only rot on the bush if left which will encourage fungus. Cut back to an outward facing bud on a strong lower section of the branch. Peony roses what a wonderful addition to the flower garden peony roses are, they are fantastic this year and I am seeing more in peoples gardens? The brilliant shades and very large blooms fill many vases I am sure. Remove seed pods once blooms have finished to stop plants putting effort into making seed. Begonias are really pushing through now but the cold snap this week will hold them back until they get the sun heat again. The food begonias most appreciate is any fish based fertiliser, as a folia spray or watered in around their roots. Hydrangeas are producing flower heads now, they are thriving in the moist soil. Heavy rain may have washed needed nutrients away, blood and bone, aged manure or slow release fertiliser will keep them happy and flowering well. Remember it's lime for pink and Epsom salts or aluminum sulphate to keep them blue. However if soil is Alkaline blue hydrangea flowers will always colour back towards pink. Alkaline soil is referred to by some gardeners as “sweet soil.” The pH level of alkaline soil is above 7, and it usually contains a great deal of sodium, calcium, and magnesium. Since alkaline soil is less soluble than acidic or neutral soil, availability of nutrients is often limited. If your soil proves to be alkaline and it is blue hydrangea flowers you want, plant them in large pots filled with an acid mix, this way they will remain blue but new acid mix will need to be added annually. Fuchsias are making a lot of growth now as well, if you missed cutting any back do it now, they will flower later than the ones you have cut back but will soon catch up .Fuchsias are on sale right now and are wonderful in pots for a shady spot. Because they put on a lot of growth in one season they soon become bushy and fill a pot. Abutilon (Chinese lantern ) If you are looking for something non invasive to make a show of colour against a wall why not try abutilon, they come in white and strong yellow, orange, burgundy and a red. I once planted yellow, burgundy and white together in a large container with nice lime green grass like lomandra lime tuff as an underplanting and it worked well. . The weight of rain makes it easy to see which branches need lifting on large deciduous trees, if left they will cast too much shade over surrounding plants. It's the lower branches that can be removed without making the tree look as though it has been cut. The upper branches will hide the cuts, so any branch growing downwards with a canopy branch directly above it can be cut back or removed altogether. Lawns The rain keeps lawns soft and lush giving them a good start before the intense heat of summer and during rain is a good time to get dry lawn fertiliser on them. If your lawns are inclined to crack when dry they have probably been planted on clay soil, I have in the past suggested gypsum be used to break down clay soil but since giving time to study results I now know that gypsum works well on coastal soil with clay and sodium content but not on heavy clay soil inland. To rectify heavy, non draining soil add organic matter, composted, finely ground pine bark is ideal along with at least 6 inches of river sand to the top 6 inches of soil worked in. This sounds like work, I know but done over time your lawn will soon be softer and springy to walk on. Keeping the catcher higher also helps grass sown in clay hard soil, scalping lawns allows gaps to introduce weeds. Vegetables Perfect weather for vegetables and fruit this year, keep the hoe going because weeds are doing well also. The days are moist, warm and the nights a little cooler, just right for growing. I am amazed that the white butterfly is still not a problem in my veg garden! Tomatoes will be getting taller and starting to fruit now, the removal of over half the leaves on a plant will benefit your plants, more nutrients going to the fruit along with more sun to encourage flowering and allowing flowers to become more visible to insects for pollination. Try it and see if you get a better crop. Cooler nights and wet foliage going into the night tends to upset tomato plants, leaves become bluish and tend to curl causing plants to become susceptible to blight and fungus. Cheers, Linda.

Abutilon (Chinese lantern)

Gardening in Waitaki December 1st 2021

Dead heading roses.

It's dead heading roses time again, I have been laying the rose petals out on a trestle table to dry for potpourri. The fragrance as they dry is wonderful, It is 6 weeks from cut to new bud at this time of the year. I have found old hellebore leaves that had not been removed, absolutely loaded in green fly!! Cut every last one out and dispose of them so green fly do not fly off onto your waiting roses. It is so important right now to keep the water up to roses, constant feeding and deep soaking at the roots will keep them healthy and not in need of spraying. A rose that is struggling will be susceptible to everything bad. Night beetles are on the wing again, newly planted young trees are the worst targeted, they can strip leaves right off, If this happens don't be alarmed because another lot of leaves will grow. Night beetles usually sleep through the day under a tree they are feeding on and you will not notice the leaves striped from the top new growth of established trees so nothing needs to be done about the night beetles on these. Flag iris have flowered now so large clumps can be broken up and transplanted in a sunny spot. Prepare the bed by digging in fresh compost and some lime then plant, leaving half the rhizome (root) exposed to bake in the sun over summer. Long leaves can be cut half way back to reduce transpiration while reestablishing.　 While you can still see where spring bulbs have been cover them with mulch to stop them drying out over summer, Weed free compost is fine then you can plant annuals on top to fill gaps. If large clumps of bulbs flowered poorly this is a good time to break them up and plant out into smaller groups using fresh compost to give them a good start. \Montana clematis has finished flowering but wait a little longer before trimming back because they have not finished their new growth spurt, if you trim now you will have to do it all over again in a couple of weeks. However wisterias can be dealt to now, if your wisteria has nice strong flowering hard wood branches that flower well then no more will be required, remove all the new long trailers, most of these if left will in time grow into hard wood branches. A wisteria is like a climbing tree and will take over and out grow it's place in no time and become very heavy if you let too many leaders grow. Lawns: will be suffering with new growth being scorched in heat, keep the mower blade up a little higher and mow in the cooler part of the day to help with recovery, mow without the catcher sometimes and give deep watering's rather than a light sprinkle. New lawns will need feeding and water kept up to help them to strengthen enough to cope with this summer. If spraying lawn weeds add liquid fertiliser and feed the grass at the same time, don't use sprayed grass clippings around the garden or in compost, spray containers have printed information on how long the with holding time is. Herbs: Culinary herbs are the original cut-and-come-again crop, if you grow them get snipping and picking. The plants really will benefit from it, and you'll have wonderful flavours to add when cooking. Most herbs and leafy plants naturally want to create seeds, and once they get to that stage, it means the end of a herb like parsley, chives or basil. So pick leaves early and often to encourage the plant to put out more foliage and prevent it from running to seed. It may be cheating Nature but it extends the life of your plants and gives you handfuls of herbs to enjoy, pick bunch, hang, dry then store in glass jars. Vegetables: Don't feed leaf veg now or have the soil too rich, they will put out too much soft growth and bolt, all that is needed is moisture when dry. I am experimenting with some plant concoctions to keep the white butterfly and aphids away. Organic bug spray 1/2 cup hot peppers, diced 6 cloves garlic, peeled 2 cups water Blast in a food processor, strain, add 2 teaspoons liquid soap (without bleach) Fill a plastic spray bottle and mist spray affected plants. Cheers, Linda.

Hanging fresh herbs to dry.

Gardening in Waitaki 23rd November 2021

What great spring weather, rain during nights and warmth during most days, I can almost see and hear plants growing. It is time to concentrate on the next stage of spring now, roses, peony roses, delphiniums, begonias, hydrangeas and lots of other beautiful happenings soon make us forget about spring bulbs and blossoms. Roses: Keep an eye on new rose growth, try to go a season giving them plenty of nurishment, folia and around roots to avoid spraying. If leaves develop black spot or rust, remove and destroy them before they fall to the ground. Keep food up during the flowering seasons as it's hungry roses that are more susceptible to disease. Spring bulbs and for-get-me-nots have finished flowering, tie a knot in the leaves of bulb growth rather than cut them off yet as they need to take all the top green into storage. Tulips collapse quickly and can be dug up and stored in a dry place until planting out again in May next year. Blue bells need to be left to seed if you want them to spread. They increase in the bulb but also seed successfully. I cut forget- me -not's back because they can grow back fresh green leaves and sit in nice clumps until they flower again next spring. Keep the water up to Lilies, they are making rapid growth now and the ground they are in must never dry out, stake them now before they become too heavy. Bougainvillea: If you have a bougainvillea, right now is the time to really get the water into it along with some all purpose fertiliser (not slow release) to simulate a rainy season. Once this has been done and your plant is established do not water or feed it again, they do the best flowering when they are stressed. A newly planted bougainvillea will need watered now and then to get it established but NO food, if fed often they put out leaf than those lovely coloured bracts. I have been spraying weeds again, germination from the first lot of spring weed seeds would probably have blown in on the wind, spraying will be an every three week job from now on. There are a number of organic weed sprays available, these need to be sprayed on weeds when they are small at the hottest time of the day. As I have mentioned before, the most economical weed control for small areas is good old common table salt, purchased in bulk or in kilo bags at agricultural outlets. Use it at the rate of 240 grams (about 12 heaped tablespoons) to a litre of warm or hot water to dissolve it, then spray on the foliage of weeds when conditions are dry and sunny . This works very fast on annual weeds but perennials probably needing a further salt treatment. If spraying only the foliage, at the above rates, there will be little residual damage done to soil. To make absolutely sure, give the area a good watering after the weeds have died. Lawns Lawn mowers will be mowing flat out everywhere with all this lush growth, compost bins will have been treated to many full catchers. Spray out the lawn weeds now which means clippings will need to be spread in areas where plants will not be affected by the contamination. On lawns where there are just a few flat weeds spot spray. Never spot spray weeds on lawns with anything other than a lawn weed spray which will not affect the surrounding grass. I have seen disastrous results where normal weed spray has been used to spot spray lawns which has leached from the weed into the grass leaving bald patches everywhere that need to be re-sown with grass seed. Vegetables: Keep mounding potatoes to encourage growing shoots and tuber development, mound until leaf and stalk are approximately 300 mm tall. Consistent watering is important for potatoes and all root vegetables so we should have some good crops after the rain we have had. Leafy veg tends to run to seed during hot days so no extra feeding to help them do this. Keep pumpkin, squash and zucchini plants mulched, their roots are fragile until their large leaves grow to create the root shade needed. Plant dwarf and climbing beans, home garden beans will give heavy crops to fill bags for the freezer. Orchard: Water needs to be kept up to fruit bushes and trees, strong winds tend to thin out over abundant fruit bunches on trees and birds are in waiting for fruit bushes to ripen, a net cover before this happens will keep fruit on until picked. Mulch fruit trees and bushes to retain moisture while fruit is swelling. Cheers, Linda

Gardening in Waitaki November 16th 2021

How wonderful the soft, soaking rain has been on gardens here in Waitaki....... and then we got the wind ! Dividing clumps of perennials that have finished flowering can be done now, violas, primulas, polyanthus, iris, helleborus, ground cover phlox, scabiosa, Solomon’s seal, any perennials that have out grown their spot in your garden can be divided. Just dig up part of a large clump and basically pull it to bits planting sections with roots into pots, by the start of next winter the small pots will be filled with roots, new leaves and buds ready to be planted out. There is also time to divide agapanthus, large and dwarf varieties. they can get a clump bound which reduces their flowering. Dig out the whole clump (if it is still manageable enough to do this), then pull off smaller root balls and plant out on their own using fresh compost to get the roots going again. Agapanthus are great gap fillers in new gardens, they can always be removed as you fill your garden with permanent plants. Weeds are starting to make seeds, get them out before they do, most are easy to pull when grown a bit. Some Gardeners could be battling with convolvulus, the only thing you can do now that gardens are full is pull it off plants and think about getting stuck in and digging out every root next winter while the garden sleeps. I found spraying will work on top growth but not the network of white roots below the top soil. If you have, or can get hold of some aged compost that has finished working, ready to put on the garden you will be able to make compost tea. Compost Tea is a nutritionally rich, well-balanced, organic plant food made by steeping aged compost in water. The water is then diluted and used as a root / or foliar feed. It is also noted for its ability to control various plant diseases (blights, molds, wilts, etc. when used as a foliar spray), to repel and control insect pests and their damage when used on a regular basis, and encourage the growth of beneficial soil bacteria which results in healthier, more stress-tolerant plants. The basic recipe most often recommended is as follows: 1 large container with lid (plastic rubbish bin works well) aged, completed compost to fill an old pillow case 1/2-3/4 full. Fill the container with water, place the compost filled pillowcase, tie off the top and submerge in the container of water. Cover (to prevent odor and insect problems) and let steep for a MINIMUM of 2 weeks. This steeping time is crucial to the formation of beneficial bacteria and the required fermentation process. When finished, dip out the tea and dilute (3 parts water to 1 part tea) and use weekly as root or folia food for all plants. The following factors will determine the quality of the finished tea: Use well-aged, finished compost - Fresh compost can burn the plants or contain harmful pathogens and compost past its best will be nutritionally deficient. If using purchased compost it should contain a portion of aged animal manure which apparently remains active longer than compost made up only of plant matter. Dilute it a little more when using on young seedlings. (It is important to note that COMPOST TEA AND MANURE TEA ARE NOT THE SAME THING. Manure tea can be made in the same way but is not generally recommended as foliar spray and is not as nutritionally well-balanced, I find roses do well when applied around roots. Time to start spraying roses for green fly and disease if you have not already started. Shield takes care of both if you follow the instructions and spray at the suggested intervals. Keep the food up as they flower, it's hungry roses that are more susceptible to disease. Slow release rose fertiliser will feed each time you water. Fruit: Keep moisture up to fruiting bushes, they grow fast and need moisture to full out and ripen. Strawberries are beginning to make fruit so cover from birds. Vegetables: Keep mounding potatoes to keep them producing more and more new potatoes for Christmas, consistent watering is important for potatoes now, this goes for all root vegetables. Leafy veg don't need any extra feeding at this time of the year it will just encourage them to bolt. Plant only as many seedling plants you think you would use when ready and hold back in a shady spot other small seedling plants from the same batch until needed. Keep pumpkin and squash plants mulched, their roots are fragile until their large leaves grow to create the root shade needed. All new small seedling plants can be over watered to the point where their roots cannot cope so will collapse, the soil should be dry on top between watering's and good drainage is essential . It's Elderflower flowering time again, I make elderflower cordial every spring it is a lovely floral drink as is with water or a splash in gin and tonic. Elderflower cordial: Ingredients: 20 large elderflower heads, 4 lemons, 1 tsp citric acid, 1.5 liters water, 1kg sugar. Method; Grate zest off lemons, then roughly chop into chunks. Gently wash the flowers and steep them in a bowl with water, add this to the flower head mixture. Cover and leave for 24 hours, then strain through muslin. gently bring the strained liquid to the boil, add sugar and stir until dissolved. Pour into sterilized glass bottles and store in the fridge when cool. Cheers, Linda

Gardening in Waitaki 9th November 2021

How warm and calm days have been over the weekend and so far this week, such a pleasure to be gardening. Annual flowering plants are what will take over from all the glorious rhododendron and azalea colours to brighten a summer garden. You have so many choices. Bedding plants grow and flower for summer and sometimes through to autumn, then finish and go to seed. If left seeds will ripen for you to collect and save to sow next spring. There are annuals that flower at a low, medium and tall height and sun or shade for you to plan a wonderful show. For new Gardeners flowering perennials are the plants that stay in the garden growing and increase in size to be broken up when required. In my early years of gardening trying to grow plants regardless of preferred conditions, thinking as long as I kept the water up and protected them through the winter I could beat nature BUT I finally gave up, it's a waste of time and money nursing plants that need a warmer climate and more rain than we have here. Plants like hibiscus, banana, gardenia, palms, anything that requires a tropical seasonal rain is going to struggle. However bougainvillea is growing here on the coast, I had a lovely one in my past garden which became a talking point every summer, but some years the frost really knocked it back. Read plant labels and make sure that our conditions are right for plants here, for example there are some lovely pelargoniums for sale now but I never got one to survive the winter in my past Weston garden. However I see them growing well on the south hill where the frosts are not so harsh so I guess it's a matter of looking at what is growing well in gardens close to you and knowing that the same plants will do well in your garden. Fruit: Keep water up to fruit bushes during dry periods, I see gooseberries are forming, they plump up to a point where birds enjoy them before we think they are ready so it pays to cover them from birds as you do strawberries. Vegetables: Keep mounding potatoes to give depth for them to produce, consistent watering is important for potatoes, this goes for all root vegetables. Leafy veg don't need any extra feeding at this time of the year it will just encourage them to bolt. Only plant as many plants as you think you would use when ready to pick, hold back the other small seedling plants from the same batch and keep in a semi shady place until required for planting. The small plants will hold if watered only when too dry, over watering will encourage rot . Keep pumpkin and squash plants mulched, roots are fragile until their large leaves grow to create the root shade needed. Corn seeds sown last month are now ready to plant out, planting corn in squares rather than rows will ensure pollination on the lower tassels and add support during strong winds. Tomatoes are romping away now, get stakes and strings ready for support and pinch out side shoots. Don't water tomatoes late in the day, leaves must be dry going into the night to avoid fungus problems. Planting marigolds to grow along side tomatoes is thought to discourage white fly and basil growing along side will improve tomatoes flavor. Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in Waitaki November 2nd 2021

The lovely RSA garden Oamaru

Some settled spring days, warm sun and spring rain to keep gardens fresh. Rhododendrons, azalea's,and peony roses are still putting on their show as we look forward to the expectation of something new happening every day in the garden but once again Gardeners will be pulling sticky, biddy-bid, chick weed and convolvulus, and every year there seems to be just as much as the year before! Convolvulus is the worst, the only way to completely eradicate convolvulus is to dig out the mass of roots below. These roots are easily identified; they are thick, white and long, it is so satisfying to pull a length right out without it breaking. Every little bit of root left behind will grow very fast. Hydrangeas are well leafed up now with flower buds forming for a summer show, if you have not mulched with manure enriched compost do it now and they will reward you well. Rose buds are fattening, getting ready to take over the glorious blooming happening right now with rhododendrons and azaleas in Waitaki gardens, such a pretty time of the year. Trim spent flowers from perennials and daisy bushes as they finish the first flush of flowering to keep them bushy and continuously in flower, if you let flower heads go to seed the bush or plants will become woody. Trim flowers from helleborus (winter rose) before they ripen then drop seed. Box hedges should have put out a good amount of new growth now so all new growth can be trimmed back to the last cut on established hedges. On new plantings even up only the top growth leaving the sides to grow together. Trimming is best on an overcast day to limit the amount of sun scorching that will happen. When planting a new buxus hedge 5 to 7 plants per metre for small plants. All other hedges can be trimmed when finally  finished putting out spring growth.  Lawns: With soil warming earlier this spring there should be excellent results from grass seed sown, to repair winter damage, rake out bare patches, add sifted soil and plant grass seed. Small patches can be covered with shade or frost cloth to keep birds off until seed has germinated. Keep lawn mower blades higher while grass is lush to shade roots and we are still getting dew which settles on longer grass keeping ground from drying out. Veg: A good no fuss way to grow veg is in a no dig garden. Making a no dig garden: Find a sunny spot on bare ground,( not concrete) surround with sleepers, logs, Oamaru stone or boards high enough to hold layers of manure, soil, compost and straw. Flood the dirt before you start to get dampness deep down. If you plan to create a no dig garden on top of grass or a space that has been growing then you will need to cover the ground with layers of saturated newspaper or cardboard, overlapping to stop strong weeds pushing through. First layer manure, (soak) this will bring the worms up, then spread a thick layer of compost, old leaf mulch and dried grass clippings, (soak.) Next add a layer of soil, (clay soil is fine in this layer), water well after each layer leaving no dry spots. Next add a layer of straw, (soak) then add more layers of compost, old leaf mulch and dried grass clippings, (soak) and top that with more soil, (soak). As you build layers, river sand, a little lime and an all purpose fertiliser can be added. Lastly add a top layer of straw to suppress weeds. When you think the garden is high enough, start planting and you should be eating your own produce within six weeks at this time of the year. Fruit: With the warmth experienced this spring and bee's doing their job berry fruits are romping along. Water is important while fruit is forming especially after the wind, a good soak from time to time if rain is scarce will ensure full juicy fruit. Grapes will be flowering, give only the vines you think could do with a boost fertiliser in early spring, feeding established vines that are doing ok will only encourage more leaves and leaders. A little potash from time to time will help with fruiting.   Codling moth: I have come across another method of dealing with codling moths which is said to have worked well for some. Use a plastic milk container, and place in it 1 banana peel, 1 cup vinegar and 1 cup sugar. Fill the container almost full of water, replace the cap and shake it well to mix and dissolve the contents. Remove the cap and firmly secure one container into each apple tree. The moths are attracted to the scent of the concoction, becoming trapped and drowned when they investigate. Refill with water as needed throughout the summer.   Cheers, Linda.

No dig garden.

Gardening in Waitaki 1st November

Abutilon mixed shades.

November brings the start of a new busy growing season . Spring is moving on with new growth still too tender to need our attention. We can look, touch and smell nature's gifts while weeds beckon us. Roses: Buds are forming, thank goodness for the rain we have had to get them off to a good start. Aphids can be dealt to with finger and thumb on the new growth before they settle down around bushes. Deciduous azaleas Are taking center stage flaunting wonderful colour's, the display in our Botanical Gardens is breathtaking right now. Peony roses are budding well ready to delight us when they explode into flower, some early peonies are already bursting into flower so if you haven't already done so get some frames around them to keep them from flopping under the weight of flowers. Dahlias are pushing through now, if you discover some in shade with tree branches having spread wider they can be shifted while leaves are still low, take a good amount of soil around the roots and plant in a sunny position. Hydrangeas have leafed up and are starting to produce flower heads so it is important to keep the water and food up to them, old stable manure, blood and bone, liquid or slow release fertiliser will keep them happy and flowering well. It's lime for pink and Epsom salts or aluminum sulphate to keep them blue. Strong winds can be detrimental to new hydrangea leaves, if they do get damaged they will soon recover. Hydrangeas are the perfect shrub for a semi shaded area. Fuchsias all prefer semi shade and are making a lot of growth now as well, if you missed cutting any back, do it now, they will flower later but will soon catch up. Fuchsias are on sale right now. Fuchsia tip cuttings can be taken now, if you spot some you like in a friend's garden ask for some cuttings. I break a cutting off at a heel or a nodule section, remove some of the top growth and push into firm wet river sand. Abutilon (Chinese lantern: If you are looking for something non invasive to make a show of colour against a wall why not try Abutilon. They come in strong colours of yellow, orange, burgundy and white. I planted yellow, burgundy and white together in a large container under planted with a lime green sedum. Being a rather spindly plant I intertwined them and they now look like one bush. Lawns: Still getting heavy dews on lawns which helps to keep them lush, but hot days will soon put grass under stress, have lawn food on hand for the next good rain. If your lawns are inclined to crack when dry they have probably been planted on soil with high clay content. A soil test is the best way to determine what's best for a healthy growing lawn and garden. To test your soil pH level, a simple and effective way is to use a home testing kit. A good tip when taking soil samples from your soil is to get a sample from just below the surface for an accurate reading. Generally when soil calcium is low, the pH is also low. In this instance, lime calcium carbonate can be added to the soil to raise calcium level and raise the pH to a more desirable level. If the soil is also low in magnesium, you should use dolomitic lime. I have always suggested gypsum is used to break down clay soil but since giving time to study results I now know that gypsum works well on coastal soil with clay and sodium content but not on heavy clay soil inland. To rectify heavy, non draining soil add organic matter, composted, finely ground pine bark is ideal along with at least 6 inches of river sand to the top 6 inches of soil worked in. Vegetables: The rain, even though we have had good rain already this spring which has been a treat to veg gardens as hosing does not give the same results as a good rain, but of course with all lush growth weeds will take over if left unattended. Hoeing while small is still the best weeding method I know. Any veg planted or sown now will pop up and thrive when the sun shines. Tomatoes; will be getting taller and flowering now however the consistent cold snaps and overcast days will be holding them back ,making leaves curl and take on a blueish look, this will stop once we get a continuous warm spell. On dull cold days watering will chill them further so water and folia feed on the warm days early in the day to allow time for soil to warm again before the evening. Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in Waitaki October 20th 2021

Unpredictable Spring weather here in Waitaki but warmth and moisture in the ground supports new fresh growth. Roses are budding up, keep the deep root watering up to them, foliar feeding on fresh new leaves works well now along with slow release fertilisers to keep roses healthy. Aphid is looking for new rose growth, if time allows removal with finger and thumb while on top growth will reduce numbers moving down into the bush and laying eggs. Cut back Erica's and callunas that have finished flowering, this stops them from going woody, removing all the spent flowers will encourage them to produce fresh new green growth for summer. If you don't cut the old flowering growth off they will make their new growth out from the old growth which means they become woody at the bottom.Cut back aubretia rockery plant and you will get another flowering, also cut spent flowers from hellebore's to stop seeds ripening and spreading, if you want to build up hellebore numbers leave a few to drop seed. If you are concerned about a hot dry Summer having a disastrous effect on your garden? Plenty of Mulch breaking down on your soil will help retain moisture as well as improve soil structure and suppress weed growth. Mulch like straw, grass clippings and weed free compost and a dressing of gypsum is also excellent for breaking down clay or poor draining soil. Lawns: keep feeding lawns when rain is about, to wash fertilisers in, a spring sowing is a thick sowing to choke out annual weeds. Spray flat perennial weeds in established lawns, annual weeds that grow up with new grass will eventually be mowed out. Vegetables: PLANT, PLANT, PLANT plants and seeds, I have planted pumpkin and squash plants grown from seed with a lot of compost and old stable manure dug in, they need a large prepared area for them to ramble. Peas and radish are perfect for encouraging Children into the garden, they soon get to eat the results of planting. If you have a glass house or tunnel house you will have success with growing tomatoes, (strings attached from the roof to stakes for support as they grow up), cucumber, peppers and basil need the warmth of a glass house as well. Fruit: Berry kane's and strawberries both flower and fruit really quickly as long as they get all day sun. Gooseberries can cope with shade and actually do better without harsh afternoon sun. Blueberries are best planted in spring or autumn, if you have had trouble growing blueberries they need to be planted and grown in conditions suited to them, acid, clay free, good draining soil. If in doubt plant in a good size pot drainage stones on the bottom in an acid mix and water with rain water if possible because it is thought tap water has a negative effect. Keep manure enriched compost up to rhubarb, if the soil gets hard and dry around rhubarb it will grow stringy dry uneatable steams. Mound up earlier planted potatoes, critical that you either mulch or mound up well to obtain heavy crops and avoid potato worms. A foliar spray with raw milk is a great way to kill blight spores, add to a foliar spray of high quality compost tea, this is a great way to strengthen the microbe populations on the potato and tomato leaves to help avoid blight. Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in Waitaki October 12th 2021

As I write this it is the second week of School holidays and a wet start, not so good for Parents and Children but wonderful for the garden, gentle warm spring drizzle is what we had last week but this week it is a cold snap, hard on us as well as new growth. Spring bulbs are starting to finish, don't be tempted to cut leaves off just yet as the bulbs top up on food for next year from leaves as they die back. If you have really big clumps of bulbs choking your garden space there will always be someone willing to bring a spade to halve big clumps and adopt bulbs. Put a sign at the gate saying Bulbs to give away, bring a spade! Sifted soil is what is needed for reseeding lawn bare patches and to add body to tired gardens, pots, baskets and seed trays. With peat based planting mediums used today soil becomes light and fluffy and will not hold moisture, soil is nature given for growing and sifted it is the perfect medium for new roots, spread it on top and it will wash in beneath the mulch with each watering to bulk up depleted soil. Lavenders: lavenders eventually reaches the end of their growing. After a trim back at the end of Winter you will soon know if they are only making a little bit of new growth here and there with most of the plant staying woody. If you have the odd lavender doing this pull it out and replace it with a fresh plant. Cuttings can be taken now from stronger growing lavenders now that new growth is happening, Tip cuttings with stems that have firmed can be taken along with a little hard wood at the bottom, (too soft and it will not work) strip bottom leaves and dip into rooting hormone, then push into damp, sharp crusher dust and place in a warm place with good overhead light, (not full sun) The pot and cuttings can be wrapped in a plastic bag, tie off the top but no plastic can touch the cutting. When roots form remove the bag and nurse cuttings until they are ready to pot on into individual pots. Take tip cuttings from shrubs as well now once stems have firmed, dip them in hormone and push them into damp, sharp crusher dust, they will make roots over the Spring and summer ready to be potted and nursed for planting out at the end of next winter. Keep an eye on tall growing chrysanthemums they start making growth now, cut back the first new growth before they make hard wood. They do not flower until the Autumn so by removing the first new growth they should regrow shorter and be more manageable. Prune fuchsias back now if you have not already done so, they will make new fresh growth, because they flower on new seasons wood they can be taken well back. Ericas that flowered over winter can be trimmed now so new growth does not start above the spent flowers. Dahlias are just starting to make a move so if you want colour to continue in your garden when the spring show is over dahlias will do the job. they like a warm full sun free draining spot, tubas will rot if planted in ground that remains wet. Too early yet to trim box hedges, wait until the new growth firms up a little. The perfect time to trim box in spring is during overcast days, the hot sun burns new undergrowth, dull days give them time to recover. Lawns: mowers are humming again on lush lawns, use the clippings around your garden as mulch, not great piles but evenly scattered around will keep the weeds down and help to retain moisture. Vegetables: Tomatoes: For those with glass houses, prepare the soil well by digging in good organic compost. This will need to have been heated to the point of all fungus disease being eradicated. Summers here in North Otago can be cool so a glass or tunnel house is the a must if wanting to be a serious tomato grower. However a glass house is a perfect incubator for fungus disease during nights and dull days when moisture is not taken up quickly by plants, never let tomato plant leaves go into the night wet. There are a lot of tomato varieties to choose from. Beefsteak, the big tomato best for sandwiches & cooking, Early girl, stars producing early and keeps on until late in the season, Potentate, medium/small firm with moderate acidity and low in sugar, Money maker, medium size and good flavor , Doctor Walter is the very low acid tomato Cherry tomatoes, the plant you can grow in a pot inside or on a porch, great for Children's lunch boxes. Russian red a tomato to grow outside in a sunny spot protected from the wind. Heirloom tomatoes have become popular, they don't look great but they have the great taste of yesteryear. Most need staked and tied up in the glass house and ALL tomatoes like sun all day, 6 to 8 hours, it helps the fruit if there are fewer leaves on the plants. Tomato leaves create unneeded shade, compete for nutrients, and harbor disease. Keep planting vegetable seeds directly into the garden but don't sow too thickly mix seeds with fine soil when sowing to avoid a lot of thinning. Beans, pumpkins and corn can be planted as soon as the ground remains warm. Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in Waitaki October 5th 2021

October already and North Otago gardens are blooming beautifully after the nice soft drizzle this week. This month is where chasing weeds becomes a full time job - Hoeing and hand pulling weeds is still the best option while weeds are new and small in planted areas especially if you are clearing a garden to plant out for a summer show. Couch grass and convolvulus need to be taken right out if you can, remove each long runner under the ground and any little pieces that may have been chopped with the spade because they will grow and spread very fast if left. I spot spray Couch and convolvulus in badly effected areas, trying hard not to bring the spray in contact with plants. Once all obvious weeds are gone cover the area with compost, thick enough to keep the light from allowing any weed seeds left behind to germinate. Compost if cooked well will have been heated to the point of destroying weed seeds. NOW plant, plant, plant! as many annuals and perennials as you can into the prepared area, they will grow really fast from now on and beat the weeds. If you have not feed plants, roses or shrubs do it now, powered plant food should always be watered in, If you have home made compost ready to use add blood & bone; and some sulphate of pot ash this will to add food and a flowering / fruiting component. Watering and liquid feeding for new plantings is the key to success as they settle in and make new feeding roots, first thing in the morning is the best time to water giving plants and dirt time to dry off before night. Fungus thrives in damp ground on mild nights. I often mention using old stable manure along with compost around roses, spread around the drip line to keep them going over their long flowering period, watering / rain will take it to the roots as required. Once rose leaves have hardened off a little green fly can be dealt to. Organic green fly spray on roses: I picked a bunch of new seasons rhubarb this week, cooked the sicks and from the leaves made an insect deterrent spray as follows. 3 or 4 rhubarb leaves roughly chopped, into 4 cups of boiling water, simmer for 20 mins then allow to cool. Strain, pressing rhubarb leaves in the strainer to get full leaf infusion. Spray: mix 1 teaspoon detergent or (baby shampoo if you have) to 2 1/2 cups of cold water, then blend this soapy water to the leaf infusion in a spray bottle. Spray onto roses and any other ornamental plants that succumb to green fly. Store left over leaf infusion by freezing, each application works best when fresh. Unfortunately it is not to be used on eatable plants. A home made insect spray to use on eatables: 1/2 cup hot peppers, diced, 6 cloves garlic, peeled, 2 cups water, Blast in a food processor, strain, add 2 teaspoons liquid soap (without bleach) Fill a plastic spray bottle and mist spray affected plants. Most camellias are still flowering but once finished they can be trimmed and shaped, remove branches from the middle if a bush is dense and bushy. This lets the light in to help form next years buds, there should be enough gaps for a bird to fly through. Hostas are starting to leaf now, so watch when working around them in the garden, it will not take much to knock the point off the new leaves, keep well watered and give them a dressing of compost and blood & bone. Slugs come in their droves if they get a sniff of hostas, they slide down into the center of clumps to lay eggs and the young then feast. Slugs can’t cross copper, so copper tape acts as a barrier. I have been told talcum powder contains Diatomaceous earth is known as an organic insect repellent. To insects diatomaceous earth is a lethal dust with microscopic razor sharp edges. These sharp edges cut through the insect's protective covering when they are either dusted with DE or if it applied as a wettable powder spray. While researching this I found that Talcom powder contains diatomaceous earth, it could be dusted down into the center of hosta's. ( Breathing in of Diatomaceous earth is not good for us so wear a mask) Lillies are pushing up, put in stakes to support them to before they get higher and never let them dry out, same for peony roses they do so much better growing up through holding stakes. Lawns are really going for it now which means the ground has warmed enough to sow grass seed, sow thickly to beat weeds and birds, keep moist and you should have a strike in no time. Don't fertilise newly struck grass, all fertilisers will be too strong. Vegetables: Garden centers are full of veg, herb, tomatoes plants and seed potatoes, from this month on it is so easy to grow your own food. If you do not have an existing vegetable garden but you do have a patch of vacant ground, clear it, dig or rotary hoe it, edge it with what ever you have on hand, lime stone blocks, tree branches or sleepers. Spray weeds around the outside of your edging so they will not encroach on your planting space then go for it, get planting at this time of the year everything will grow fast and well as long as you keep water up and hoe the weeds away. Corn and pumpkins need to be planted as soon as threat of frost is over to assure the long ripening season they need. Carrot seed planted now should mature before the carrot fly is on the wing again. If carrot fly has been a real problem for you in the past I would cover rows with insect net once germinated from October until April as this period includes the three generational life cycle of the carrot fly. I have been told Resistafly F1 hybrid Egmont seeds are less likely to be infested. The fly is attracted to the carrot smell while flying low to lay her eggs so thinning out of carrots is almost like calling the flies. Plant seed with a little river sand. If it's a Herb garden you are keen to make and have chosen a sunny spot, dig in some old stable manure and lime before planting, all herbs like both. Why not plant up some mixed herb pots now and they will be ready to give as Christmas presents. Cheers, Linda

Gardening in Waitaki September 28th 2021

October: Such a pretty month for gardens with still lovely blossoms about even after nor west winds threatening to remove them all. Rhododendrons are taking center stage right now but deciduous azaleas are slow to flower compared to other years by my notes. , in my view they are equal to any beautiful tropical flowers. Roses are well in leaf now and aphids are colonizing on new buds but using the index finger and thumb removal method you will manage to keep them under control. Aphids winter over on the underside of last year's hellebore leaves, if you have not done so already remove and destroy them because fresh new leaves are popping up now. Hellebores are still looking wonderful but if you don't want hellebore seedlings germinating all through the garden cut out spent flowers before seed is dropped. Peony roses are well through now, supports around them before they bud up will help with heavy flower heads. Peonies need a lot of water and benefit from liquid fertiliser. If you planted new crowns for this season it would pay to let only one flower develop to allow growth to go into the crowns, then cut the one blooming flower off before it makes seed pods. Peony roses need full sun and do not like to be smothered by other plants. Lavenders are also budding up with the absence( so far) of spittlebugs, if these bugs are a problem for you, spraying will not work, the spittle surrounding them is a barrier to pesticide. A forceful hosing will dislodge them and hopefully drown a few. Clematis are making good growth, hybrid's are those especially large flowered varieties, not the invasive pink and white montana type. You have to be quick in training hybrids where you want them to go while the trailers are still soft, they like a lot of feeding to take them to great heights. Manure, deep down with a little lime added when planting is beneficial. Don't worry if you have one with no buds just yet they all have different flowering times, If you planted one this year let it flower then cut it to the ground, this will make it send up many more shoots and you will have a much bushier and stronger climber. Hybrid clematis can also wilt and die for no reason, if this happens cut it to the ground but don't dig out because I have known some to shoot away again the following year with no sign of wilt. I have been potting up old fashioned cottage flowers like cosmos, love in the mist, salvia blue bedder, Clary sage, and lavatera. These are all taller flowering annuals that need to be planted close together so they hold each other up. The more plants put in the less room for weeds where soil is exposed is a good plan. All the annuals mentioned will be flowering at Christmas, and then for ages after if deadheaded regularly. Herbs: are making strong growth now in readiness for summer menus and drying, they need to be harvested often to stop running to seed. Vegetables: Keep planting veg seeds and plants, a few at a time so you can have the continuous thing happening as it is perfect Spring weather for growing all veg now the ground is warm and moist. My board beans are doing well with no sign of rust, could it be the pinch of potash put in when planting? Peas will be romping up netting in veg gardens and beans can go this month if the ground remains warm. Fruit:Thank goodness we are not getting overcast days this year so bees can be about visiting blossoms on fruit trees. Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in Waitaki 21 September 2021

Still experiencing the odd frost here in North Otago which means cold morning starts but it soon warms up and becomes pleasant working conditions. However the cold nights, mornings and wind chill are holding some spring growth back. I am spending days sowing seeds and potting up germinated seedlings, a lot of room is needed for this job once all seeds pop up, thank goodness for the Recycling center and all the pots they are able to supply. During last week I potted on lavender and hedge cuttings taken at the end of last summer, hedges are not for everyone because of the trimming but I love a nice hedge separating areas in a garden, a lot of plants are required to grow a hedge so it is worth putting in cuttings. Also in early spring fast growing gap fillers can be divided and planted to take over from spring and early summer flowering plants. I plant them now so that good roots establish, then cut them back at the end of summer and they regrow with fresh growth to take them right through until the beginning of next winter. Plants I use for this are mignoette, geranium, cineraria silver dust, aubretia, catmint,purple sage and anthriscus sylvestris (I call this bronze Queen Ann's lace) it spreads from seed profusely but pulls out easily and is a wonderful gap filler with its large feathery bronze leaves and clusters of small white flowers. I absolutely love sweet peas, groups of early sowing can sit over winter for an early flowering then another lot planted to scramble up behind lower plantings in borders. Sweet peas are gross feeders so a trench filled with well rotted animal manure below the soil they are sown in will ensure a good display that keeps producing those lovely flowers. This is the time to take tubular begonias out of dry storage, as they begin to sprout but with it still being cold there is time enough to do this. The showy edging flamboyant begonias become nice big tubas in time and by cutting sections off them each year you will achieve a border in no time. It's best to lift them at the end of their growing season each year because like dahlias they can rot in wet ground during winter, All begonias love any fertiliser with a seaweed and fish content. All of this month shrubs can be propagated by layering if branches are low enough to the ground to pin down into a dug out area then covered with soil. Azaleas and rhododendrons and low growing magnolias, any shrub that allows you to pin low growing slim branches down into the soil. Hopefully by the end of this growing season these branches will have developed strong roots, leave growing like this on the Mother plant for another year then cut free and pot up to grow on as a new bush. Ponds will be warming up now and in the heat of summer pond water will become too warm encouraging green slim to grow, the addition of un sprayed barley straw weighted down with rocks will help to keep water clear. It takes a couple of weeks after the straw is introduced to get the pond water working as it should. Water lillies are starting to move along with pond iris and oxygen weed and as water gets warmer fish will begin to think about breeding, Keep fertiliser from drifting into ponds, slime growth is encouraged by added nitrogen. Lawns: New lawns sown now on the coast will strike as soon as we have a few nice sunny days in a row to keep the ground warm, as I have mentioned before seed must be sown thickly in spring to beat annual weeds, the best time to water grass seed is in the morning and evening to avoid evaporation and being the coolest part of a day allows the ground to absorb water deeper. Keep the mower blades up when cutting spring grass to allow it to thicken and feed a little each time it rains to retain lushness. Fruit: Blue berries are a popular fruit and a health benifit, Blue berry bushes need to be growing in an acid soil with consistent moisture. Water well and mulch with pine needles, they will gently make the soil beneath more acid. Strawberries also prefer slightly acid soil so pine needles are an option for this as well as keeping weeds down and fruit off the soil. Vegetables: I have noticed there are still no white butterfly's about to lay eggs on green veg, when you do spot them cover leaf veg with netting above or even frost cloth which still lets enough light in for veg to be protected and keep growing as normal while small. Get sprouted seed potatoes in the ground and when leaf starts showing begin mounding soil up around them to create more depth for a bigger crop. All the veg seeds I planted at the same time are up and doing well, lettuce, broccoli, silverbeet, cabbage and cauliflower. Root veg seed can be sown now, carrots, beetroot and radish. Parsnips need a long growing season and enjoy a cool soil so can be sown as early as July until the end of November they do best in the South Island. Corn and tomato seed can be sown under cover to be ready for planting out when the threat of frost is over. Runner and French beans can be started under cover for planting out when the soil is warm. Cheers, Linda.

Layering a shrub branch.

Gardening in Waitaki September 13th 2021

"Spring makes it's own statement, so loud and clear that the gardener seems to be only one of the instruments, not the composer."~ G. B Charlesworth. North Otago is looking so pretty after some nice sunny days and spring rain, enjoy the masses of lovely blossoms and daffodils everywhere. lavenders: Removed old stalky lavenders, english lavenders eventually get leggy and past it, don't nurse them thinking they will come back because they will probably not, dig them out and replace with new fresh plants. Look around the garden for plants to make edging in front of gardens to give a structured look. If you have large clumps of lambs ear growing that have doubled in size, dig half of it out and brake it up into single plants. Silver is a perfect shade to use as a break between strong and soft shades and will grow in sun or semi shade, lambs ear also has the added bonus of being an interesting texture. There are a number of plants you can edge with, nepeta (catmint), erigeron daisy, Thrift (Armeria maritima), Purple sage, thyme,liriope, dwarf agapantha to name a few. Roses are really leafing up now and the warmer it becomes the more aphids ( green fly) will be about, aphids settle on the top new growth of rose bushes and are easily visible on new small leaves for you to dispose of by removing with finger and thumb. Pruning: Now the sap is up, remove unwanted growth from prunus trees, (flowering cherry) it has been said that this is the best time to make cuts in prunus to avoid the spread of silver leaf which can spread from tree to tree while in the dormant stage. Cut out any weak growth and cross over branches before they grow thick and remove any growth growing from below the graft which will look different from the growth above the graft. All ornamental deciduous trees are grafted onto a different strong root stock now and sometimes the root stock will grow from the graft join. Always make sure you're pruning equipment is cleaned from one tree to the next, methylated spirits is good for doing this and never prune like this on a dull damp day, this will spread silver leaf, pick a bright sunny day. Kilmarnock willow: this is the ornamental pussy willow used so often now in small gardens. Cut out all dead branches from beneath, Each new branch grows out from a bud of last years growth. All subsequent years growth dies and builds up under the new growth. These grafted weeping tree's are much nicer to look at with all those dead branches removed and it is easier to do this when bare of leaves. If left they becomes top heavy they can fall over after rain has softened the ground. Lawns benefit greatly from an early spring feed of lawn fertiliser but this works best with rain to wash it in. Aerating and de-thatching can be done this month, aeration involves perforating the soil with small holes in compacted lawns to allow air, water and nutrients to reach grass roots. During the growing season is the best time for aeration and de-thatching then grass can heal and fill any gaps. Removed thatch can be used on gardens as mulch. Vegetables: The soil is warming with sun is staying around longer so this is a busy time for gardeners who will be sowing and planting their edible gardens. Get pumpkin, butternut , squash and corn seeds started now under protection, they need a long warm growing season to grow d ripen. It's potato planting time from now until December. Keep nutrients up monthly, in the form of compost and fertiliser. Mound up rows as shoots grow until they are around 300 mm tall to encourage tuber development. keep planting leafy veg as there are still no white butterflies about, as an early season deterrent start spraying fish emulsion on both veg and flowering plants,this will feed plants and repel pests by fooling them into thinking their favorite food is now protein not vegetable. repeat after rain. Fruit: All deciduous fruit trees can still be planted in September while coming out of dormancy. A wide selection will be available in garden stores now. All fruits require a position in full sun, sheltered from prevailing winds is preferable. After fruiting take the height down on fruiting cherries and plum trees if they have grown beyond picking height as they tend to fruit mostly on the top branches. Strawberries: will do well with a dressing of fertiliser specifically formulated for strawberries containing extra potassium, old stable manure is beneficial as well. All other berries on offer should be planted now to settle in for a season of fruiting. Citrus: If you need to prune a citrus tree do it now, avoid doing so in summer as this is when citrus borer is active and pruning increases their vulnerability. If breakages in summer make pruning necessary, ensure you quickly cover up the cut with a pruning paste. Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in Waitaki September 7th 2021

The hum of bees is back with the flowering cherries and fruit trees in blossom and what a magnificent display magnolias are making around North Otago. It is a joy to be planting out bedding plants and putting the finishing touches to spring gardens when the sun is shining.  Soil is warmer and days are longer, perfect for planting seed, annuals and perennial plants. I think every gardener enjoys trying new plants and colour combinations, but keep an eye on germinated seeds with late frosts. Some seeds I planted a couple of weeks ago and have been protecting are up and already need transplanting.  Pansy, viola alyssum, with shallow roots can be three or four to a pot until ready to plant out but those with longer deeper roots like lupin, hellebore and Oriental poppy have been  planted into their own individual small pots. It is best to have well developed roots attached before planting out. Weeds are taking off again, I have the hoe on the go while they are small because I do not like spraying, once hoed in a covering of compost will keep weeds smothered in both the flower and veg garden.  Birds will be scratching about in gardens looking for worms and grubs to feed their young, They usually concentrate on the front edge of a garden making a mess on paths and lawns,  if you have a problem with this, growing a mat forming boarder will deter them. Some boarder plants to consider are catmint, lambs ear, alyssum, alchenilla mollis, dwarf agapantha, armeria maritim (thrift), mondo grass, any low growing perennial plant that mats over soil. Lavenders: are always popular, English lavenders will eventually get leggy and past it, if you have any like this don't nurse them thinking they will come back because they will probably not. Dig them out and replace with new plants. munstead lavender is the small edging variety which will not spill over a path as other English lavenders tend to. There are so many different varieties on the market now and none of them are very long lived if they do not like where they are growing. I have noticed the lovely tall English Hidcote does well growing down a solid fence line for support and keeps on keeping on if trimmed often, English lavenders are grown for oil and are a good drying variety. The bumble bee type, lavender major, are more manageable in borders and the French lavender dentata is a tall hedging lavender that flowers all year round. Lavender likes full sun, manure / compost enriched soil with a dressing of lime from time to time. They like it dry but need to get roots down deep to tap in to moisture, a good soak once a month over a hot summer will keep them on the dry side, don't give brief waterings as roots tend to stay high looking for moistCleaning out  ponds will be needing attention, leaves and old growth from pond plants needs to be removed then overflowing the pond will freshen it. Water Lilies, oxygen weed and water irises are starting to make a move. A couple of years ago a helper and I removed all the yellow bog iris from my then  big pond, this was a much needed job because this common yellow iris was spreading so fast and took up a quarter of the pond with it's mat forming roots ( lesson learned, don't plant yellow bog iris in a domestic pond) The place for this iris is along the banks of a creek, the fibrous roots are fantastic at holding the sides back from erosion. Don't be tempted to add bull rushes to a domestic pond either, they also spread too quickly. While water lilies are not fully in leaf sections can be cut and re potted. If you do not have a mesh pot specifically for aquatic plants, make holes in the sides of a plastic pot and use that. Line the pot with sacking or woven fabric and 3/4 fill with garden soil and a small amount of slow release fertiliser in the center. Plant a water lily section then add a good amount of stones or gravel to the top of the pot and submerge to the bottom of the pond.  Lawns: New lawns sown on the coast should result in a strike now that the ground is warmer, as I have mentioned before seed must be sown thickly in spring to beat the annual weeds. Keep the mower blades up when cutting spring grass to allow it to thicken and feed lawns just before or during rain and they will stay lush. Herbs: perennial herbs are making growth so can be divided and annual herb seeds sown, basil will need to be protected well until the threat of frost is over. Vegetables:  Here on the coast plant all leafy greens on offer, carrots,  lettuce plants at two week intervals and any spare ground could be planted out in seed potatoes. Plant corn and pumpkin seeds and protect until frosts have past, both of these need a long ripening season so it is best to have them well up early for planting when the time is right. I have sown tomato seeds of different varieties which I will be nursing in a warm well lit place.  Fruit: Strawberries and rhubarb are on the move, they need to be fed to get the best from them, manure enriched compost then mulched with straw, pine needles or un sprayed grass clippings to keep weeds down. Volunteers with the Garden corner at the Resource Recovery Park hope to be open this month with  a good selection of plants ready for planting. Gardners please drop in any unwanted plants for Volunteers to pot up and re-home. Cheers, Linda.  

Garden corner at Resorce Recovery Park

Gardening in Waitaki September 1st 2021

Wow heavy frost again this week, thank goodness for frost cloth protecting  all the  seedlings I am nursing. With this strangeness now at level 3 I am itching to get potting and seed raising mix to carry on sowing seed and potting up. I make potting mix go further by adding sifted soil afterall soil is the true growing medium and with Garden centers loaded up with so many different mix options soil now being overlooked. Those who have a soil sieve can fill a wheelbarrow with fine sifted soil in no time. Seed raising mix can be used sparingly by filling a container with sifted soil then a layer of seed raising mix on the top. A teaspoon of productive soil contains more living organisms than there are people in the World.  Winter sown spring seeds are up now so I am thinning and potting Pansy and dianthus which have shallow roots into deeper seed trays and those with longer deeper roots like lupin, hellebore and Oriental poppy into their own individual small root pot as it is best to have a well developed root ball attached before planting out into the garden.  Baskets and pots can be thought about now, use only shallow rooted plants for baskets like pansy, primulas, and trailers like Virginia stock and dwarf sweet pea until it is warm enough to plant petunias, lobelia and begonia. Pots and baskets benefit from the addition of extra slow release fertiliser and water Chrystal's to keep them going,. Roots of what you want to plant will determine the size and depth of a pot or basket. Potted roses need a deep solid pot to help with  the heat of summer cooking roots,  potted, camellias, azaleas, hydrangeas and small trees and shrubs also suffer from cooked roots in summer. By placing a shorter plastic pot inside a terra cotta or concrete pot will help keep roots cooler, interior plastic pots should have wide drainage holes and sit on a layer of gravel inside the bigger pot  leaving a three  inch gap at the top to spread mulch which can be a thick layer of gravel, stones, bark or even sheep wool.  All potted plants do best in a good heavy potting mix, excellent drainage plus a consistent supply of food and water. If a potted plant is left too dry for too long between  watering it will never thrive or look lush and healthy. Hydrangeas can now all been pruned, fuchsias can be pruned once they start showing new growth, they flower on new growth that's why growers cut them right back to encourage new fresh growth, so cut back all that straggly old wood. Dahlias, I am keeping a cover of pea straw on top of mine because I feel nothing will be happening with them until well into next month. Rose growth is well on now and we don't have to chase aphids ( green fly) yet but they will be about soon to settle on the top new growth, easily visible for you to dispose of by removing with finger and thumb. Leave spraying (if needed) until leaves are well grown and have hardened up a little. Weeds are taking off as well during mild days, get them while small before they flower and make seed with a hoe on paths and driveways and pulling by hand while soil is soft. There are organic weed sprays on the market that work best when weeds are small so now is the time, get them before they flower and make seed.     Lawns: Prepare ground for sowing new lawns here on the coast when the chill has left the ground, spring sowing should be thickly spread  thickly to beat annual weeds.  Once spring mowing starts again on existing lawns, keep the mower blades up to allow grass to thicken as it comes back from dormancy and feed lawns just before or during rain and they will stay lush.  Vegetables: Green crops can be dug in now, before they flower and get stringy. Here on the coast sow lettuce seed and plant lettuce plants and other leaf veg on offer now at two week intervals but protect from frost and birds while small.  Carrots and peas can go in but ground is still too cold for parsnip, beans, corn, and the pumpkin family,  they all need warm soil to germinate. Broad beans sown in March  should be in flower looking for bees. Prepare ground for planting seed potatoes, if soil is too wet, fork over adding compost to get air in to aid drying. Potatoes can rot if the soil is cold and wet.  Fruit:Buds are swelling to blossom burst as sap rises, what's needed now are sunny days and bee's. Work on gooseberry bushes now before leaves arrive, thin out middle branches and cut bottom skirt branches up to raise height making it so much easier to pick the fruit from underneath. Strawberries are starting to move towards budding so will be looking for food, they need mulched with compost, old animal manure, then straw or pine needles as a cover will do the trick.

Gardening in Waitaki August 26th 2021

While our Country is in no go lockdown mode Spring continues to unfold here after a run of lovely warm spring days we experienced this week. So far magnolias, camellias, daffodil and jonquil bulbs and blossom bursting buds confirm the above.Weeds, now it begins, address those weeds with a hoe while small and the sprayer can stay in the shed for a while yet. For paved areas and driveways that have been cleaned of small weeds there is a product call Ronstar that can be used to stop new seeds germinating, it comes in a granulated form and you sprinkle it on like salt, it will have no effect growing leaves (hence applying weed free ground) it makes the ground sterile stopping seed germination. Roses are budding and leafing now, wait until leaves are fully out and not too soft before starting folia feeding and a fortnightly spray program. The most important component for roses right now is food, rose fertiliser, old manure or manure enriched compost around the drip line and watered in will get you wonderful results further into the growing season.  Hydrangeas:  Buds are swelling so can be pruned and fed now, they should have come through this winter well. Enjoy the spring blooms but start thinking summer colour now... this is where you can paint your own garden canvas, hot colours to zaz up an area or whites silvers and greens to tone down harsh background colours and blues to cool and pull them all together.Where there is dirt filling with flowers will leave no room for weeds, for low maintenance gardens with trees, shrubs and mulch cover you can create pockets of colour with annuals between the shrubs, If you have weed mat to deal with just scrape away the mulch and with a craft knife cut a section of weed mat on 3 sides as a triangle, fold it under at the point edge and fill the dirt gap with annuals then replace the mulch around them. Once they have finished flowering for the year just remove before they seed and pull the folded flap of weed mat back over the area and re-mulch, a splash of colour among green shrubberies makes all the difference to a summer garden. Vegetables: Veg plots need attention now, weeds gone and compost dug in ready for seeds and seedlings, best not to sow or plant straight into mulch containing animal offal, this proves to be too strong but fine to spread around when new plantings have developed strong roots. Soil containing organic matter is best for new plantings and seed raising mix along rows when sowing seeds will gain good results.I plan to sow corn and pumpkin seeds early with days being mild but will nurse with cover for as long as it takes to give them a long growing season.I also have sprouted potatoes going in early and these will need protecting from late frosts as well, covered at night once through the ground.   Fruit:Berries are budding up to flower, they would appreciate organic mulch and a dressing of feriliser high in potash.  Strawberry plants are beginning to move into budding as well, my plot needs a lot of attention and building up with manure enriched compost and I am hoping I can find some plants remaining after the winter under all the chic weed. Cheers, Linda .

Gardening in Waitaki August 17th 2021

Another dull day as I write this, we are slowly moving into Spring with early blossom bursting buds and bulbs. To prepare for spring treat your garden to a late-winter pep-up by removing weeds while they are still small then digging in plenty of organic matter, such as compost and manure. Wigelias can be cut back, these are lovely old fashioned deciduous shrubs with no center trunk, they send long canes up from the ground that cover themselves in pretty pink  flowers in late spring. I remove all the old branches that have flowed, you can tell which branches they are because the wood looks really old and spent compared to the new fresh wood there ready and waiting to take their place.  Spirea shrubs need the same treatment and  hypericum (St Johns Wort, green leafed evergreen shrub with large bright yellow flowers can get a trim back now as well, if too tall and wide they can be taken well back.  Lift and divide perennials such as delphiniums, chrysanthemums, asters and astilbes. Sow seeds : alyssum, begonia, californian poppy, carnation, chrysanthemum, cosmos, dahlia, delphinium, dianthus, gypsophila, honesty, nemesia, marigold, pansy, petunia, phlox, portulaca, salvia, snapdragon, sunflower, verbena, viola, viscaria, and zinnia.  Plant seedlings: alyssum, aquilegia, canterbury bells, carnations, cornflower, cosmos, cineraria, delphinium, pansies, polyanthus, poppy, gypsophila, forget-me not, hollyhock, stock, and viola.  Fairy magnolia blush is proving to be a winner for a pretty hedge or tree for a small garden and looks great in a pot. This magnolia / michelia cross grows 4m high and 3m wide after 10 years, like's full sun or semi shade.  Roses: Apply a dressing of Rose Food to establish Rose's and Water in well.  Lawns: August can be a tricky time of the year for your lawn because the weather is so unpredictable, fertilize if we get a good shower for food to be available when needed. You may find the growth rate of grass increase from now, if you feel it necessary to start mowing keep the blades high and  remove any perennial weeds by hand before they flower and seed.  Fruit: Get all fruit bushes and grapes pruned as soon as possible because sap is rising which means branches will bleed sap when cut. remove some old grape leaders, replacing them with new growth leaders along wires. The result of this will be vertical budding and fruiting next year.  Citrus trees may need to be covered against early spring frosts in sheltered areas. New season’s fruit trees particularly pip and stone fruit can be planted now. I see a few bees at work already which is a good sign for the soon to be happening fruit blossom pollination.  Vegetables: Raised gardens in a sunny location probably have not had enough hard frosts this winter to break up the soil. If planting veg seedlings it is so good not to have to worry about the bugs and white butterflies at this time of the year.Onions: although onions prefer a sunny position with a rich but light soil, they will do well in most soils as long as it is firm. You can grow them in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Seeds should be sown at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. When planting, space plants 5-10 cm apart, seed trays don't have to be in a greenhouse, any sheltered spot will do to guard against rapid changes of temperature, especially at night. Downy mildew, neck rot and white rot are the most common diseases that attack onions. To avoid these, plant disease-resistant varieties and keep the garden clean of diseased debris. If your veg garden is further inland start adding some compost and a little lime now in readiness for when you plant out later this month.  Cheers, Linda.