Gardening in Waitaki 1st August 2026

August often teases us with the first true signs of spring. A run of mild, sunny days can have both gardeners and plants believing winter is behind them, but experience tells us there is usually one last burst of cold before the seasons finally turn. As daylight hours lengthen, dormant plants begin to stir, and fresh growth emerges, making this a particularly vulnerable time in the garden. Enjoy the early magnolias and blossoms, but remember that late frosts can still damage tender new growth and delicate fruit blossom.   The recent warmth will help dry heavy, waterlogged soils, making it a good time to check for areas where water lingers. Plants left in wet ground for too long can suffer root damage. To improve drainage, create channels to carry excess water away or add stones/gravel beneath newly planted shrubs and trees. Gardens that missed an autumn application of compost will still benefit from a generous layer spread over the soil. Earthworms will gradually work the organic matter into the ground, improving soil structure before spring growth begins. August is an ideal month for pruning. Finish winter rose pruning if you haven't already, remove all prunings and old leaves, then feed with manure-enriched compost, blood and bone, or a quality rose fertiliser.  Wisterias can have long, whippy leaders removed, keeping only the main framework. Avoid cutting back flowering spurs now, as next season's flower buds are already forming.  Many deciduous shrubs can now be rejuvenated. Remove old wood from weigelas and spireas, trim berberis, cut buddleias back hard to encourage fresh silvery growth, and clip away the old stems from catmint.  Hydrangeas will be showing swelling buds; prune old flowering stems back to the second pair of buds from the branch bottom while leaving non-flowering shoots untouched, as these will carry new season's blooms. Thick, woody hydrangea cuttings can also be taken now and rooted in damp river sand. Winter gardens are brightened by hellebores, which are now attracting bees on mild days. Once pollinated, their seed heads begin to develop and the flower stems become firm enough for picking. Seedlings often appear beneath established plants and can be transplanted after their second year, although patience is required as they may take four years to flower. Snow-damaged marguerite daisies are best left alone until frosts have finished. The damaged growth helps protect the healthy shoots beneath, and they will quickly recover once cut back to sound wood in spring. This is also the perfect time to plan new plantings. As gardens mature, increasing shade often means sun-loving perennials need relocating while woodland plants such as hostas, pulmonarias, hellebores, astilbes, foxgloves and Solomon's Seal can take their place. Planting generous drifts of the same variety creates far greater impact than scattering individual specimens throughout a border. Seed sowing will now be well underway. Sow hardy flowers and vegetable seeds into trays and place in a warm, bright position. Once seeds germinate, prick out into punnets and move seedlings to cooler conditions to harden them before planting.  Lawns start to come back this month and will respond to a dressing of lawn fertiliser to give them a boost. Fruit trees continue to arrive in garden centres, making August an excellent month for planting. Compact varieties like dwarf peaches and nectarines are ideal for smaller gardens, as are the slim-growing Ballerina apples. Apply a dressing of potash around fruiting trees and bushes to encourage strong flowering and fruit production. Watch peach trees carefully as buds begin to swell and apply a copper spray at bud burst to help prevent leaf curl.Gooseberries also benefit from winter pruning. Remove crossing branches, lift low growth clear of the ground and open the centre of the bush to make picking much easier and improve air circulation. Any low branches that have rooted into the soil can be lifted and potted to produce vigorous new plants. Grapevines should also be pruned before the sap rises by shortening side shoots back to two buds along the fruiting leaders. Strawberries thrive well in raised garden beds, containers, or hanging baskets, provided they receive plenty of sunlight. Vegetables: Protect tender vegetable seedlings with netting or frost cloth, as hungry birds can quickly strip fresh young growth as they start nesting soon. Broad beans, peas, garlic and shallots can all be planted into well-drained soil, while seed potatoes can be chitted in a cool, dry place ready for planting.   Cheers, Linda.

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Gardening in Waitaki July 22nd 2026

As we move further towards August, there is a definite feeling that spring is edging ever closer. Along the North Otago coast, the frosts will ease, temperatures have remained relatively mild, and that heavy rain has left the ground beautifully soft. Spring bulbs are pushing through quickly, with tulips already showing well and daffodils, jonquils and other bulbs racing towards bud. If we do get another sharp cold snap, it will simply hold the buds for a while, although any soft new growth may feel the effects. Gardens are already beginning to brighten with the flowers of early camellias, Rhododendron 'Christmas Cheer' and Prunus autumnalis. The perfume drifting through the garden from wintersweet, witch hazel, daphne, boronia and violets is a wonderful reminder that spring is not far away. August is one of the best months for planting trees and shrubs; the soil is moist, and roots can establish during spring. Trees take years to reach their full beauty, but every one planted today is an investment for future generations. The damp soil has reminded me how easily many shrubs layer themselves. Viburnums, choisyas, camellias and hydrangeas often drop low branches that naturally form roots where they touch the soil. These rooted sections can be left until well established before being cut from the parent plant and potted up. You can also encourage this by pegging a low branch into the soil after making a slight wound in the bark. Winter pruning continues. Remove old, tired wood from weigelas and spireas, lightly trim prickly berberis, cut buddleias back hard to encourage fresh silvery growth, and clip away all the old foliage from catmint. Wisterias also benefit from attention now. Remove the long whippy leaders that have grown since summer, leaving only the framework required to cover the support. Avoid pruning the short flowering spurs, as these carry next season's blooms. Larger reductions are best left until after flowering. Peony roses should have all last year's stems removed and destroyed, as diseases can overwinter on old growth. Be careful not to damage the bright pink shoots emerging from the crown. Dahlias can also have their old stems removed. If the stems are hollow, bend them over after cutting to prevent rain from collecting inside and rotting the tubers. Bearded irises are beginning to move now. Pull back any soil or mulch covering the rhizomes so they are partially exposed, then apply a light dressing of lime and potash to encourage flowering. Avoid nitrogen-rich fertilisers, which promote leaves rather than flowers. Rose pruning should be underway with buds beginning to swell, and the roots becoming active, making this the ideal time to apply rose fertiliser around the drip line. Water powdered fertilisers in well, while slow-release products will feed gradually each time it rains. Keep manure away from the crown. Lawns: The last heavy rain will have highlighted areas where lawns drain poorly. Resist the temptation to walk on saturated lawns, but make a note of any hollows that will need levelling later. Birds busily searching for worms are also helping aerate compacted soil. While the ground remains moist, a light topdressing of sieved compost will add valuable organic matter, particularly on heavy clay soils. Wait until mid spring before applying lawn fertiliser, allowing roots to establish first. Vegetable gardens will still be wet, so allow soils to drain before planting. Garlic and shallots can still be planted into well-prepared ground, while strawberries will establish well now in raised beds, containers or hanging planters. Good drainage remains the key to success. Fruit: Continue pruning gooseberries by removing crossing branches and lifting the lower growth clear of the ground. Any rooted branches can be potted up to produce healthy new plants. Newly planted fruit trees should also be cut back to around hip height. It seems drastic, but this first pruning encourages a well-shaped tree with fruit that will remain within easy reach for many years to come. And when blossom finally appears, let's hope for plenty of warm sunny days to bring the bees out to do the job they do so well. Cheers, Linda

Gardening in Waitaki July 15th 2026

July reminds us that winter still has plenty to say. After drenching rain, crisp frosts continue to greet us most mornings, and then a norwesterly wind brings warmth back. Those colder nights help keep early insect pests in check. Despite winter's grip, the garden is beginning to stir. Daphne is filling the air with perfume, while hellebores, primroses, polyanthus, violas and the first bulbs bring welcome colour to otherwise bare gardens. Primroses and polyanthus multiply readily and are easily divided. Lift established clumps, gently separate them into smaller plants, trim away some of the older foliage and keep them well watered until they establish. A light dressing of dried blood or fish fertiliser will encourage healthy growth and plenty of flowers. Mulching is one of the best jobs you can do this month. It helps conserve moisture, protects plant roots from fluctuating temperatures, suppresses winter weeds and feeds the soil as it breaks down. Apply it to damp soil wherever possible.Winter is an excellent time to improve the soil. Turn compost heaps to introduce oxygen and add moisture if they have become too dry. Fallen leaves need not be wasted either. Store them in large bags with a little water and allow them to rot into valuable leaf mould, one of the best soil conditioners you can make. Winter is also the ideal time to tackle pruning. Rose pruning for me is to happen next month when the rose wood is harder, but if you feel you need to get on with it, make every cut on a slight angle just above a strong outward-facing bud, using sharp secateurs to leave a clean cut that heals quickly. Bush roses can generally be reduced by about two-thirds, standards pruned back to around 25 centimetres above the head, while climbing roses need only the removal of old or weak growth, leaving five or six strong canes. Flower carpet and fairy roses can be reduced back with a hedge trimmer. If you have old, leggy rhododendrons that flower only at the tops of long woody branches, now is a good time to rejuvenate them. Although it may seem drastic, cutting them back to healthy growth lower down will encourage fresh shoots and eventually produce a fuller, bushier plant. You will sacrifice flowers for a season or two, but the long-term result is well worth the wait. Hydrangeas in milder areas can be pruned as they begin to show new leaf growth. Remove the old flower heads by cutting back to the second pair of healthy buds from the stem bottom, while leaving stems that did not flower, as these will often carry next season's blooms. If you prefer pink flowers, apply garden lime now. For blue blooms, use aluminium sulphate or a blue hydrangea fertiliser. Tender plants such as pelargoniums, hibiscus, bougainvillea and young marguerite daisies still need protection from heavy frosts. Frost cloth should be supported above the plants rather than resting directly on the foliage. Established marguerite daisies on the coast will often survive if the frosted outer growth is left in place to protect the new shoots beneath. Inland gardeners, where frosts are much harder, are usually better to overwinter cuttings under cover. Vegetable gardens remain productive on the coast, with silver beet, broccoli, cauliflower, kale, carrots, leeks and stored pumpkins all featuring in hearty winter meals. As beds become vacant, dig in compost and let frost, worms and winter weather continue improving the soil before spring planting. Garlic can still be planted successfully this month, either directly into well-drained soil or into containers in colder districts for planting out later. Plant individual cloves pointed end upwards, about five to seven centimetres deep and 10 to 15 centimetres apart. If you're planning an early potato crop, begin sprouting seed potatoes now in a cool, bright position. If you have room, consider growing comfrey. Its deep roots mine nutrients from well below the soil surface, making it an excellent compost activator, mulch and liquid fertiliser. The leaves are especially rich in potassium, making them valuable around tomatoes, potatoes, beans and fruiting plants. Fruit: Winter is also the best time to plant deciduous trees, fruit trees and berry bushes while they are dormant. Garden centres have their widest selection now, and planting before spring gives roots time to establish. Remember to keep the graft union above soil level and stake newly planted trees securely against our strong North Otago winds.Continue pruning apples and pears while dormant, leaving water shoots on apple trees until summer. and leave peaches until early spring when wounds heal more quickly, but for leaf curl controle a couple of sprays of copper oxychloride before bud burst will help. Tidy fruit bushes by removing old, unproductive growth, particularly from blackcurrants, which fruit best on younger wood. Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in Waitaki 8th July 2026

Well, where did all that rain come from? It arrived with such force, leaving a trail of destruction across our district. My thoughts are with everyone who was affected, and I sincerely hope those impacted are now receiving the support they need and are well on the way to getting life back to normal. Winter has well and truly settled in across North Otago. Rain and frost remind us that the coldest part of the year is here, and sodden ground means gardens and lawns will remain out of bounds until we get some drying winds. Remove saucers from under pots, as standing water can freeze, damaging plant roots and rotting bulbs, so good drainage is essential. Although gardens appear quiet, so much is happening beneath the surface. Roots continue to grow, buds slowly develop, compost quietly matures, and every frosty morning helps prepare plants for the burst of growth that spring will soon bring. July used to be one of my favourite months for catching up on those jobs that are difficult to tackle during the busy growing season. This year, however, many gardens will need time to dry out before we can begin cutting back deciduous trees and shrubs. While we wait, it's the perfect opportunity to plan for the busy spring and summer months ahead. Keep an eye on areas of the garden that drain slowly, particularly where heavy clay soils are a problem. These spots may need some intervention to prevent ongoing waterlogging. Digging shallow drainage channels can help remove standing water or redirect excess water to a lower area where it won't cause problems. Bulbs, tubers and plant roots can quickly rot if left sitting in saturated soil for too long. If you're concerned, lift dahlia tubers and any valuable bulbs, pot them up, and keep them in a sheltered spot until the garden has drained enough for replanting. Rose pruning: As I mentioned last week, rose pruning is best left until August, when the wood has had time to firm up. Ideally, pruning should be completed before the buds begin to break. Planting and transplanting: Garden centres are now well stocked with bare-rooted deciduous trees, roses and fruit trees. Make your selections before the best varieties sell out, but wait until the ground is no longer wet or frozen before planting. Trees and shrubs will happily remain in their bags for a while if kept watered. Before planting, always read the label carefully and consider the mature height and spread of the plant. A small shrub today can become a very large tree in years to come. Vegetable garden: Wet winter soils are best left alone until they begin to dry. Once workable, dig over vacant beds and incorporate generous amounts of compost and well-rotted manure, as heavy rain will have leached nutrients from the soil. Then allow frost and worms to continue improving the soil structure before spring planting. In colder districts, garlic can be started in containers if the ground remains frozen. Coastal gardeners can continue planting garlic into well-drained soil. If you grow early potatoes, have them ready to plant once conditions improve. Now is the perfect time to chit them by placing seed potatoes in a cool, frost-free, well-lit position to encourage short, sturdy green shoots that will establish quickly once planted. Gardeners with a greenhouse or cold frame can begin raising early vegetable seedlings ready for spring. Comfrey remains one of the most useful plants to have in the garden. Its potassium-rich leaves make an excellent compost activator, liquid fertiliser and mulch around tomatoes, beans and other fruiting plants. Fruit garden: Buy deciduous fruit trees and berry bushes while they are on offer, then plant when the ground allows. Choose sunny positions and avoid frost hollows for early-flowering varieties such as plums, pears and apricots. Resist the temptation to prune peaches and nectarines during winter. These are best pruned in early spring as growth begins, allowing wounds to heal quickly and making it easier to see which flower buds have survived winter. Cherries are best pruned during summer on fine days to reduce the risk of silver leaf disease. Apple and pear trees respond differently to heavy winter pruning. Excessively hard pruning often produces masses of water shoots and leafy growth at the expense of fruit, so vigorous trees are often better managed with summer pruning once the leaves have fully developed. Prepare new strawberry beds whenever conditions allow. To maintain healthy, productive plants, replace old beds every three years and renew the soil where possible. When propagating from runners, always select the runners closest to the parent plant, allowing them to root well before separating them in early spring. Cheers, Linda

Comfry plant & flowers.