Gardening in Waitaki August 21 2026

Spring has arrived in the garden, although recent frosts remind us that winter has not quite released its grip; Blossoms are appearing everywhere, and magnolias are throwing off their woolly coverings and opening their spectacular flowers, while winter sweet and violets fill the garden with fragrance. Keep frost cloth handy for seedlings and tender plants for a little longer. This is a busy time in the garden, with plants waking rapidly and putting their energy into new growth. Feeding is one of the most important jobs now. Roses in particular are moving quickly and should be fed as soon as possible. A good feed now will encourage strong, healthy growth and can reduce the need for spraying later. Most shrubs and perennials will appreciate feeding too, followed by a good soak if the soil is dry. With spring growth beginning, this is the time to regain control of shrubs that have become too large. Soft shrubs encroaching on paths and driveways can be trimmed back now and will soon produce fresh growth. If height is the problem, removing the tall central leader to where the side branches begin can reduce height considerably without destroying the shrub's shape. Remember that spring-flowering shrubs and climbers may already be carrying flower buds, so prune carefully. Delay pruning jasmines until the risk of frost has passed. Roses can still be pruned while they are dormant or just beginning to move, depending on your location and the weather. Feed them now and prepare for pruning once the timing is right. If planting a new rose where a rose has previously grown, replace the old soil with fresh soil from elsewhere in the garden to reduce the chance of transferring rose disease. Magnolias are taking centre stage. They prefer slightly acidic soils and grow beautifully alongside camellias, rhododendrons and azaleas. Choose carefully for the space available: Lavender can be trimmed as new growth appears. Old, woody plants can be cut back hard enough to encourage fresh shoots, although very old bushes may be better replaced. Give new lavender a light trim, some compost and a little lime. Late winter and early spring are also a good time to think carefully about trees for the future. In smaller town gardens, large-growing trees can eventually create considerable work through leaf fall, pruning, shade and invasive roots. Before buying, always read the mature height and width on the label. Smaller trees such as flowering dogwoods, Cercis canadensis ‘Forest Pansy’, crab apples and Robinia ‘Lace Lady’ can provide beauty without the scale of an oak, ash, elm or large maple. For those wanting larger trees in a smaller garden, controlled root-growing systems such as Evergrow planter bags can provide another option, allowing a tree to develop naturally while restricting its ultimate size. There is still time to divide hostas before leaves emerge. Lift established clumps and divide them with a sharp spade, ensuring each piece has good roots and shoots. Dahlias can also be planted now in sunny, well-drained positions; tubers will remain dormant until the soil warms. Sowing seeds under cover. Seedlings sown earlier should now be appearing and can be given a weekly liquid feed. I sow seeds in trays containing compost and soil, with a thin layer of seed-raising mix on top. Cover trays with glass or plastic, but allow air to circulate to prevent dampness and disease. Keep frost cloth handy for young plants. Vegetable gardens are waking too. Prepare beds by digging in weed-free compost and allowing the soil to settle before planting. Shallots, lettuce, beetroot and broad beans can still be planted, with frost protection provided for young plants. Early seed potatoes can be planted, but protect emerging foliage from late frosts. Unused vegetable areas will benefit from a green crop such as mustard, lupins, barley or wheat. Dig it into the soil while it is still lush and green, before the stems become tough and slow to break down. This adds valuable organic matter and helps tired soil. Lawns are beginning to green up after winter. If moss is a problem, it's often a sign of shade, compaction or acidic soil. Sulphate of iron can be used to control moss; once it has blackened, rake it out, aerate the lawn and apply a suitable feed. Adding compost to heavy clay soil lawns will improve the condition and help prepare the lawn for the drier months ahead. Fruit trees and berry bushes will benefit from attention now. Apply a potash-rich fertiliser to encourage flowering and fruiting. Deciduous fruit trees and berry canes should be planted without delay. Thin raspberries by removing old canes that have already fruited, along with weak and excess shoots. Citrus, particularly lemons, appreciate citrus fertiliser and a deep watering. Keep grass and weeds away from trunks and mulch well. Cheers, Linda. Securing Raspberry canes.

Gardening in Waitaki August 12th 2026

As we move further into August, there is a definite feeling that spring is edging ever closer. Along the North Otago coast, frosts will ease as temperatures become milder. Heavy rain has left the ground beautifully soft for spring bulbs to push through quickly, tulips are already showing well, and daffodils, jonquils and other bulbs are racing towards bud. If we do get another sharp cold snap, it will simply hold the buds for a while, although any soft new growth may feel the effects. Gardens are already beginning to brighten with the flowers of early camellias, Rhododendron 'Christmas Cheer' and Prunus autumnalis. Perfume will be drifting through gardens from winter sweet, witch hazel, daphne, boronia, and violets, which is a wonderful reminder that spring is not far away. August is one of the best months for planting trees and shrubs; the soil is moist for roots to establish during spring. Trees take years to reach their full beauty, but every one planted today is an investment for future generations. The damp soil has reminded me how easily many shrubs layer themselves. Viburnums, choisyas, camellias and hydrangeas often drop low branches that naturally form roots where they touch the soil. These rooted sections can be left until well established before being cut from the parent plant and potted up. You can also encourage this by pegging a low branch into the soil after making a slight wound in the bark. Winter pruning continues. Remove old, tired wood from weigelas and spireas, lightly trim prickly berberis, cut buddleias back hard to encourage fresh silvery leaf growth, and clip away all the old foliage from catmint. Wisterias also benefit from attention now. Remove the long whippy leaders that have grown since summer, leaving only the framework required to cover the support. Avoid pruning the short flowering spurs, as these carry this season's blooms. Larger reductions are best left until after flowering. Peony roses should have all last year's stems removed and destroyed, as diseases can overwinter on old growth. Be careful not to damage the bright pink shoots emerging from the crown. Dahlias can also have their old stems removed. If the stems are hollow, bend them over after cutting to prevent rain from collecting inside and rotting tubers. Bearded irises are beginning to move now. Pull back any soil or mulch covering the rhizomes so they are partially exposed, then apply a light dressing of lime and potash to encourage flowering. Avoid nitrogen-rich fertilisers, which promote leaves rather than flowers. Rose pruning should be underway with buds beginning to swell, and the roots becoming active, making this the ideal time to apply rose fertiliser or aged manure around the drip line. Water powdered fertilisers in well, while slow-release products will feed gradually each time it rains. Lawns: The last heavy rain will have highlighted areas where lawns drain poorly. Resist the temptation to walk on saturated lawns, but make a note of any hollows that will need levelling later. Birds busily searching for worms are also helping aerate compacted soil. While the ground remains moist, a light topdressing of compost will add valuable organic matter, particularly on heavy clay soils. Vegetable gardens: Allow wet soils to drain before planting. Garlic and shallots can still be planted into well-prepared ground, while strawberries will establish well now in raised beds, containers or hanging planters. Good drainage remains the key to success. Fruit: Continue pruning gooseberries by removing crossing branches and lifting the lower growth clear of the ground. Any rooted branches can be potted up to produce healthy new plants. Newly planted fruit trees should also be cut back . It seems drastic, but this first pruning encourages a well-shaped tree with fruit that will remain within easy reach for many years to come. And when blossom finally appears, let's hope for plenty of warm sunny days to bring the bees out to do the job they do so well. Cheers, Linda

Gardening in Waitaki August 11th 2026

Wow, what a polar blast we've had this week! North Otago escaped relatively lightly compared with many other parts of Otago. August is always an unpredictable month for gardeners. Just when the soil begins to warm, and spring seems within reach, winter often has one last icy reminder. Even so, each day brings fresh signs of the changing season, with snowdrops, jonquils, early blossom and magnolias bravely standing up to the cold. This is one of the best times to visit garden centres if you are thinking of planting camellias or rhododendrons. Most are now flowering, making it much easier to choose the colours that will complement your garden. Both perform best in semi-shade or areas protected from the hot afternoon sun. I know the cold does not encourage seed sowing, but if sown now in good light, up off the cold ground and protected under glass, you will get them to germinate and grow on for an early start for spring flowering. Seed trays I sowed three weeks ago under glass are showing the first stages of growth. To make expensive seed-raising mix go further, I fill trays with compost and sifted soil, then add a thin layer of seed-raising mix on top.  Roses will benefit from feeding if you haven't already done so because roots are moving and buds are swelling. Aged manure is perfect, slow-release fertilisers are also a good food choice, providing nutrients over many months and help to keep plants healthy and vigorous. This is the time to plant the roses now on offer in Garden centers. Peonies and gladioli can also be planted now, along with Lilies, but those being lifted should be replanted immediately, as their bulbs never truly become dormant and dislike drying out.  Lavenders beginning to show fresh growth can be trimmed now. Older woody bushes can be cut back by about half to encourage fresh shoots lower down, while younger plants need only a light clip. A sprinkle of lime around the base will help maintain the sweet soil lavenders enjoy. If an old lavender has struggled for several seasons, replacing it may be the better option. Hydrangeas are also showing new shoots near the base, signalling that pruning can begin. Remove the stems that flowered last summer back to the second healthy bud from the bottom, leaving the remaining younger stems to produce next season's blooms. Remember, pink hydrangeas prefer alkaline soils while blue varieties require acidic conditions. If your blue hydrangea insists on turning pink, growing it in a large container filled with acidic potting mix is often the most reliable solution. Many climbers are already carrying flower buds, so trim carefully. Hardenbergia (Happy Wanderer) can be cut back after flowering, while jasmine that has been touched by frost is best left until warmer weather confirms which stems have survived. There is still time to divide established hostas before they come into full growth. Lift mature clumps, divide them into several healthy pieces with a sharp spade, and replant immediately. Hostas also make excellent container plants, but remember that emerging leaves are irresistible to slugs, so protect them early with prickly twiggy prunings. Comfrey is one of the garden's most valuable plants. Its deep roots draw nutrients from well below the soil surface and store them in the leaves. Pack chopped leaves into a lidded container and leave them to break down into a dark liquid. Diluted with water, it becomes a nutrient-rich feed high in potassium, ideal for flowering plants, tomatoes and other fruiting crops. Plant comfrey where it has room to spread, as it can become quite vigorous.  Lawns often show patches of moss at this time of year. While products containing sulphate of iron will blacken and kill moss, lasting success depends on correcting the cause. Poor drainage, soil compaction, excessive shade, acidic soil, mowing too closely, or poor fertility can all encourage moss to thrive. Healthy, well-fed lawns that are aerated and mown correctly rarely have serious moss problems. Plan your first spring lawn feed just before steady rain. Vegetable gardens deserve attention now. Dig compost into empty beds and allow the soil to settle before planting. If you're not using a bed immediately, sow a green crop such as mustard, oats, lupins, barley or wheat to improve soil structure and organic matter. Dig these crops in while still soft and leafy, before they become coarse and stemmy. Existing asparagus beds should be carefully cultivated without damaging the crowns, while new beds benefit from deep cultivation and plenty of compost. Sprouted potatoes can be planted now for an early crop, and winter cauliflower can be protected from frost by tying the outer leaves over the developing heads. Fruit trees and berry bushes are preparing for another busy season. A dressing of potash will encourage better flowering and fruiting, while a thorough watering followed by a generous mulch will help conserve moisture as growth accelerates. Cheers, Linda.