Gardening in Waitaki

Gardening in Waitaki
Weekly garden blog

Tuesday, February 27, 2024

Gardening in Waitaki 1st March 2024

Signs of Autumn are apparent now with cooler mornings and nights, wonderful warm ripening days as leaves begin to turn. Well that is how it usually plays out as nature navigates through climate changes. Planting: With days shortening and nights cooling, warm ground begins to retain moisture again making Autumn one of the best times for planting trees and shrubs to settle in before the coldest stage of winter. Always plant trees and shrubs to the depth they were in the pot or bag and stake well if tall. Seed sowing: As I have mentioned, March is the month to collect and sow seeds, hardy annuals can be sown directly where they will flower. A majority of the seeds I collect are stored for a spring sowing as needing to protect germinated seedlings through the winter can be tricky. Hardwood cuttings: This is the time to take hardwood cuttings, place cuttings in a water filled container as they are taken. Prepare cuttings by removing bottom leaves and cutting top leaves back by half. Push cuttings into river sand, keep moist and hopefully over a few weeks they will develop roots in the warm sand. Then rooted cuttings can be potted on into potting mix fill pots to sit over winter making more roots. Once pots are filled with roots cuttings can then be potted on into bigger pots. At this stage pinching tip growth back on the cuttings will encourage nice bushy plants. Bulbs: I notice some spring bulbs are pushing through which means it is bulb planting time, iris, crocus, hyacinth and daffodils along with any daffodil bulbs you need to shift. Bulbs require deep planting in a sunny well drained spot. Tulips and lilies can be planted in May / June. Hedges: will have finished pushing out this year's growth so get them trimmed well before frost's arrival to damage new growth, especially the lovely photinia red robin, if trimmed now beautiful new, bright red growth will be enjoyed during winter. Ponds: Warm water in ponds will be heating up especially small shallow ponds, warm water has low capacity for holding oxygen, so you may see your fish gasping for air close to the water surface. A minimum depth of two feet is suggested for the bottom of a shallow pond to remain cooler. If your pond has no waterfall or fountain algae is sure to grow as water heats up. A natural way to stop this happening is to add barley straw or barley straw solution to the pond, as barley straw decomposes it releases something similar to hydrogen peroxide (H202) which will eventually kill the algae. Fill a string bag with barley straw and weigh down with a rock. If there is a waterfall or fountain, place the straw where water will flow through. Top up pond water gradually so the temperature does not change dramatically for fish. Lawns. Grass grub damage may be showing up now in lawns with black birds letting you know just where they are, if it is a large area leave the birds to deal with them then rake out all damaged patches and re-sow. By May grubs will be too deep for birds or products to make a difference. Vegetables: All seeds sown now will germinate but watch the heat, I cover my seed boxes with shade cloth to keep them from the harsh sun. If planting out seedling plants I would cover them as well with shade cloth to help keep moisture in and white butterflies and birds off. There is time from now to sow a green crop in vacant areas of gardens, blue lupin, mustard or alfalfa will add natural nitrogen to soil. Dig in before it develops firm stalks, or just cover with compost for worms to take down into soil when bedding gardens down for winter. Cheers Linda

Tuesday, February 20, 2024

Gardening in Waitaki February 21st 2024

How good has this growing season been, warmth and a lovely heavy shower during the week. Gardens will be starting to tire now so dead heading and cutting back will smarten things up and enable plants and shrubs to push out new growth and colour before the first frosts. While cutting back seeds can be collected and left to dry in paper bags and seedlings that have popped up among plants can be removed and potted if in the wrong place. Fill in gaps with the lovely annuals on offer in garden centres. Roses: Keep the rose dead heading up to encourage the last blooms of summer, it is 6 weeks from a prune to another bud which will take us into April, after that flowering it is best to not deadhead, leave blooms to make seed which will help to harden wood for the winter ahead. Pruning and feeding will only encourage unwanted new soft growth so no feeding from now on Compost heaps and bins will be cooking well now, water will be needed to help break things down enough for a ready compost, I add manure and lime at this time. Cut back border and rockery perennials as they finish flowering then top dress with compost and some blood & bone to give all a boost. To get superior blooms on gerberas, dahlias, delphiniums and chrysanthemums dead head and give fortnightly feeds of liquid fertiliser, remove excess buds from large flowering chrysanthemums they will be putting on a show soon. I would dearly love to shift shrubs but I know they would suffer being shifted at this time of the year even if the water was kept up to them. Best to wait until the end of Autumn when the sap has gone down. However if you have no option and have to shift trees and shrubs before winter it would not be as traumatic if they were first wrenched to cushion them from the shock. Wrenching is when one half of the roots are dug around and lifted, then compost is added under them for new feeder roots to grow into. It is important to keep the water up once roots have been cut or disturbed. A tree or shrub will survive by being fed from the remaining untouched roots while at the same time the other half is making new roots into the compost in readiness for a shift later. Holes can be dug now while soil is soft in readiness for a winter planting. Lawns. After those baking hot days and a lot of mowing lawn growth starts to slow down from now, catchers will still be filling for a while yet but don't feel you need to cut lower than usual because growth has slowed, a scalped lawn dries out faster and encourages weeds. The flat weeds I come across I pop out with the blade of secateurs before they seed and spread. Veg & Fruit Keep the water up to corn and pumpkins to ensure a juicy crop, they both need a long ripening season. Dig out old spent strawberry plants that have finished cropping and discard. Plants that are being kept for another season should have runners cut off now to preserve the strength of the main clumps. Transplant only the strong runners closest to the Mother plant and keep the water up to them until they make roots. Grapes are filling out now so keep water up to them and net covering will soon be needed to keep birds off. Late peaches, nectorenes, apricots, quince will be in abundance and birds will be feasting if not picked. Lawns. After those baking hot days and a lot of mowing lawn growth starts to slow down from now, catchers will still be filling for a while yet but don't feel you need to cut lower than usual because growth has slowed, a scalped lawn dries out faster and encourages weeds. The flat weeds I come across I pop out with the blade of secateurs before they seed and spread.

Monday, February 12, 2024

Gardening in Waitaki February 13th 2024

Days start to draw in and dews return as we zoom through February and conditions for growing in North Otago remain good with warmth and the moisture in good measure. I am so enjoying the second year in my new garden, the Japanese style plantings on gravel are giving colour and interest in abundance while needing very little attention other than shaping. I planted a long, slightly raised picking garden which is now full to bursting with colour and texture with every shrub and plant finding its own space leaving no room for weeds. The delphiniums are in their second bloom, hydrangeas, salvia, dahlias, roses, gypsophila to name just a few of the back, mid and front plantings are creating a tapestry of beauty. I mention often the importance of cutting back cutting back plants and shrubs as they finish flowering, if not done and bees have done their job seeds will be forming letting the plant know it is finished for the growing season. This is most important for shrubs that make new wood from where seeds are ripening as, hebe's do. If not trimmed back after flowering a hebe bush will show mostly branches and full growth only on the top. February: is a good month for taking cuttings and propagating your own plants. Why? Because by late summer soft new spring growth has hardened and cuttings are less likely to lose moisture from leaves. Semi-succulent plants like geraniums (Pelargoniums) or impatiens are easiest for beginners, but many common shrubs such as abelia, buxus, lavenders, fuchsias and hebe's have a relatively high success rate. The trick when growing plants from cuttings lies in keeping the cut pieces alive while they develop their own new roots. Professional nurserymen do this by growing cuttings in glasshouses where they're regularly misted with fine sprays of water. But there are lots of techniques that can help a home gardener to achieve success. Try the following: Take cuttings early in the morning, while it is still cool, choose tip pieces that are about 100- 150 mm long then drop into a bucket with enough water for cuttings to stand up in, cuttings can remain there for a couple of days if you are short of time. Work in the shade. Fill a deepish container with river sand or crusher dust, water well and allow to drain. Trim the base of the cuttings below a leaf node (which is where the leaf is, or has been, attached to the stem). Remove bottom leaves, leaving a few at the top. Large leaves can be cut in half to further reduce moisture loss. Dip the base of the cuttings into hormone gel or powder. Use a pencil to poke holes in the top of the mix a 150 mm pot can hold about six cuttings. Insert the bottom of each cutting into a hole and gently move the mix back to hold it in place. When the pot is full of cuttings, water carefully and place the pot in a lightly shaded spot, out of direct sunlight, no plastic cover is required at this time of the year but check regularly to make sure the mix stays moist. After a couple of months, gently move the stems to feel if they are firm. This will mean roots have started. When roots are established the rooted cuttings can be moved into individual pots filled with good quality potting mix and fed with a gentle liquid fertiliser. Plant cuttings out in spring. Spring bulbs will be arriving into plant shops now waiting to be in the ground. A bulb comes ready-equipped with the promise of a flower and in its previous growing season bulbs do all the work of flowering then creating an embryo flower safely stored within the bulbs waiting for the right moisture and temperature to trigger growing. In all but the wettest areas, bulbs can be left in the ground from one year to the next, If soil stays wet for long periods (especially during cold weather) your bulbs will simply rot away, feeding once they make an appearance is the secret to ongoing success. Lawns are showing heat stress now, keeping lawn mower blades higher will help with shade and moisture retention for grass roots. Fruit: Feed citrus trees with citrus food and spray any scale you notice with winter oil. If your lemon bush has become crowded with branch and leaf remove a few branches to let light and bees in. Vegetables: Keep sowing veg seeds, carrot, beetroot, parsnip, spring onion, and lettuce because there is plenty of growing time left for seeds to germinate and grow. Seedlings being planted now will need bird protection while small. The tunnel house I tend has become over grown with tomato and cucumber plant growth, the cutting out of unneeded leaders has been ongoing from growth starting but still plants have romped while producing plenty of tomatoes and cucumber flowers which are now becoming cucumbers. Oh the joy of growing veg. Cheers, Linda