Gardening in Waitaki November 7th 2026

What a difference gentle spring rain makes, leaving the soil warm and damp to encourage fresh spring growth. Seeds sown a couple of weeks ago are up and romping away, although, as always, the weeds are equally enthusiastic. Biddy-bid and chickweed need pulling before they set seed and spread. A late frost can still catch us out, as I discovered with several newly planted annuals, so keep frost cloth handy when cold nights are forecast. Pot plants: For me, the gentle rain calls my pot plants outside; I imagine I can see them breathing in the reality they have been missing while growing inside. Roses are showing their first beautiful blooms; they have used much of their stored energy to produce this new growth, so regular feeding, watering, and mulching will help keep them flowering well. Fish emulsion makes a useful foliar feed. Remove leaves showing black spot, and finger-and-thumb greenfly removal works. If you need to spray, choose a dull day. English lavenders are starting their first flush of flowers, while the French and Italian varieties will be in need of a light trim to encourage more flowering. Give them a feed of liquid fertiliser or liquid manure. All lavenders appreciate lime and good drainage. Peony roses are putting on a wonderful display, but their heavy flower heads need supporting. Keep water up to them while flowering. Newly planted crowns benefit from having their flowers removed for the first two years to establish strong clumps, so remove most flowers and never let them develop seed heads. Clematis are growing rapidly now, so train new trailers while they are still soft and easy to direct. They appreciate regular feeding, with manure being particularly useful. Different varieties flower at different times, so don't worry if yours has yet to produce buds. Newly planted clematis can be allowed to flower, then cut back to encourage stronger, bushier growth. Summer colour: As spring-flowering perennials and daisy bushes finish, trim off spent flowers to prevent plants becoming woody and encourage fresh growth. Fill gaps with summer annuals. Cosmos, love-in-a-mist, salvia, clary sage, and larkspur provide height at the back, while petunias, nemesia and marigolds fill the middle. Lobelia, alyssum and impatiens make lovely edging plants. Planting closely helps cover bare ground and reduces the space available for weeds. Hydrangeas and fuchsias are making plenty of growth. Keep hydrangeas well watered and fed to encourage good flower heads. Lime helps maintain pink flowers, while aluminium sulphate helps retain blue. Fuchsias are wonderful in pots or shady garden positions. Cut back woody, well-established fuchsias as they flower on new growth.remember that covering bare soil with plants and mulch is one of the best ways to keep weeds under control and gardens looking their best as summer approaches. Lawns are loving the rainy periods, which is also the best time to fertilise them. Grass clippings and soft hedge clippings make excellent spring mulch around gardens. Remember that covering bare soil with mulch or plants is one of the best ways to keep weeds under control and gardens looking their best as summer approaches. Vegetables: Everything is growing quickly, so keep planting seeds and seedlings in small batches to provide a continuous supply rather than having everything ready at once. Mound potatoes as they grow and maintain consistent watering for root crops. Avoid overfeeding leafy vegetables, as it will encourage them to bolt. Keep pumpkins and squash mulched while their roots are establishing, and Plant corn in blocks rather than rows, allowing the closely grouped stems to support one another in strong winds while helping pollination by keeping the tassels close together. Tomatoes need staking and regular removal of side shoots. Avoid watering late in the day, keeping foliage dry overnight to reduce fungal problems. Fruit: Berry bushes are filling out quickly, and deep watering during dry, windy spells will help produce plump fruit. Cover strawberries and gooseberries before the birds discover them! Grapevines are flowering now, but established vines generally need little extra feeding beyond an occasional boost of potash. Cheers, Linda

Gardening in Waitaki October 23rd 2026

Labour Weekend weather usually brings on wonderful garden growth, with the last of the blossom trees in full bloom. The beautiful spreading prunus shimidsu sakura and upright Prunus Kanzan, with its bright pink flowers, are gracing many North Otago gardens. As usual, strong winds can turn the Kanzan blossom into pink snow, and the much-needed spring rain has helped soak our dry ground. Plant, plant, plant! There will never be a better time in nature to plant shrubs, evergreen trees, flowers and seeds. Seedlings grown from seed, lupins, Oriental poppies, delphiniums, penstemons and nasturtiums, benefit from being potted individually until their roots are established and the plants are stronger. Sunflowers and other strong-rooted plants can be started in peat pots and planted out pot, and all once roots have developed. Wildflower patches can become overrun with weeds before seeds germinate. Try clearing the ground, laying down well-soaked newspaper and covering it with potting mix before sowing. This helps suppress weed growth while giving wildflowers a chance to establish. Cut back spring-flowering shrubs once flowering finishes, and trim spent growth from ericas and callunas to encourage fresh growth and prevent them becoming woody. Cut back aubrieta for another flowering and remove spent hellebore flowers to show off their attractive foliage. Polyanthus have provided wonderful winter colour; cut them back and move them to a shady spot until they can be planted out again next late winter. Roses are budding up nicely now that nights are warmer. Keep up deep watering and feeding, using slow-release fertiliser to supply nutrients as plants are watered. Greenfly on new bud tips can often be washed away with a strong hose. Compost: My compost is warming up again after winter; it will provide wonderful material full of worms and beneficial invertebrates. Start building new compost heaps now, layering soft growth, seedless weeds, brown stalks, aged manure, kitchen scraps ( no meat), soil and old compost. Keep the layers moist and build directly on the ground so worms can work their way up. By autumn, you should have useful compost ready for a tired garden. Ponds: Water lilies can be planted in baskets lined with sphagnum moss or a suitable soft liner, using garden soil and slow-release fertiliser. Cover the surface with a thick layer of shingle to hold the soil in place and reduce nutrients leaching into the pond. As water warms, goldfish begin breeding by depositing eggs among oxygen weed. Moving larger fish temporarily can give the tiny fish a better chance of surviving. Lawns: Aerate, feed and sow seed where needed. Apply powdered fertiliser when rain is expected or water it in well to prevent scorching. Gypsum may help improve clay soil, while adding fine compost helps build soil structure. Vegetables: Plant pumpkins, squash and corn, preparing generous amounts of compost and aged manure for pumpkins to ramble through. Peppers, tomatoes and cucumber plants can be planted in glasshouses or tunnel houses, with support provided as they grow. Tomatoes will grow quickly; early plants affected by cold snaps should recover as temperatures rise. Flowers that attract bees and other beneficial insects are valuable companions in the vegetable garden. Carrots and leeks are a worthwhile combination. Herbs: Harvest herbs before flowering to prevent them from going to seed. I dry surplus herbs laid between sheets of news paper with saliotaped edges and leave in a warm, airy place until completely crisp before storing in paper bags or glass jars. Fruit: Raspberries and strawberries need plenty of sunshine and water to produce sweet fruit. Keep manure-enriched compost around rhubarb, as dry, hard soil can result in stringy, tough stems. Watch fruit trees and grapes for fungal diseases and treat when necessary. Last chance to put codling moth traps in place. Mulch fruit trees with unsprayed grass clippings, extending out towards the drip line, to help retain moisture while the fruit develops. A lot of springtime happenings are taking place in Waitaki: Community Garden courses, Garden tours and even a pop-up Art Gallery in our recreation centre as a fun raiser on the 1st of November. Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in Waitaki 13th October 2026

Cut back winter growth on gaura plants.

Unpredictable, changing spring weather in Waitaki, but every day brings something new and beautiful in the garden. Fragrant lilacs, peony roses, and sweet peas provide colour and scent, while kōwhai flowers are delighting the birds. Shrubs and flowers: If rhododendrons, azaleas or camellias need moving, do so immediately after flowering, before new season growth begins. Prune spring-flowering shrubs once they have finished flowering, removing up to a third of the growth if they need reshaping. Cut back ericas and callunas after flowering to encourage fresh growth and prevent them becoming woody. Trim aubretia to encourage another flush of flowers, and remove spent hellebore flowers to prevent unwanted seedlings. Leave a few seed heads if you wish to raise more plants. Cut winter growth back on gaura plants to obtain fresh new growth. Plant now while so much is on offer: Geraniums and pelargoniums thrive in sunny positions, while fuchsias, hydrangeas and many native plants appreciate afternoon shade. Sun-loving summer annuals provide colourful gap-fillers. Nature never leaves bare ground for long, so get in first! The spring soil is warming, making this an ideal time to plant what you love and enjoy a garden full of colour through summer. Mulch and Feed roses with compost and slow-release fertiliser, and maintain deep watering. Foliar feeding on fresh leaves is also beneficial. Watch for aphids on new rose growth and remove them by hand when practical, before numbers build up. I have been potting seedlings into individual containers to establish strong roots before planting out. Sunflowers and delphiniums are best sown and planted in peat pots, so roots can grow undisturbed when planted out. Keep an eye on hostas, as slugs and snails love their tender new leaves. Slugs will find damp homes nearby under garden waste. Remove lower leaves to make it harder for them to climb up them, and water when needed in the morning, leaving the ground and leaves dry at night when slugs are about. Repot container plants that have been in the same mix for three or four years, replacing old potting mix and checking their roots. Root-bound ornamental buxus can be root-pruned and replanted in fresh mix; I reduce the compacted roots with a sharp spade. Lawns, mulching, and feeding: With a potentially hot, dry summer ahead, mulching now is one of the best things you can do for a struggling lawn. Weed-free compost helps retain moisture, shade roots, and improves soil structure as it breaks down. Gypsum also helps improve clay soils, although it is not a substitute for organic matter or good drainage. Leave the catcher off now and then to add humus. Feed lawns when rain is expected to wash fertiliser in. When sowing a new lawn, sow thickly to help crowd out annual weeds. Many annual weeds in new grass will eventually disappear with regular mowing Vegetables: This is the time to plant, plant, plant! Sow beans, peas, corn, beetroot, radishes, lettuce, courgettes, cucumbers and other summer vegetables. Pumpkins and squash need plenty of space to ramble, so prepare a generous area with compost and well-rotted manure. Tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers and basil benefit from the warmth of a glasshouse or tunnel house. Support tomatoes with strings or stakes as they grow. Mound soil around potato plants as they grow to encourage good crops. No-dig gardens will need new layers of compost and straw. Companion planting can help attract beneficial insects and discourage some pests. Nasturtiums may draw caterpillars away from vegetables, while marigolds and tagetes attract hoverflies that feed on aphids. Mexican tagetes are traditionally used around brassicas to help deter some pests. Basil grows well alongside tomatoes, and garlic, chives and parsley can be planted near roses. Dill attracts bees and other beneficial insects, while carrots and leeks make useful companions because of their differing aromas. Carrot fly is active when carrots are thinned. Avoid leaving pulled seedlings near the rows, as their scent will attract them. Fruit trees and berries: Watch fruit trees and grapes for fungal diseases, treating affected plants early with a suitable organic fungicide. If codling moth has been a problem, put traps in place before fruit develops. The moth attacks apples, pears, quinces, crab apples and some stone fruit. Once the caterpillar enters the fruit, it is difficult to control. Remove fallen and damaged fruit, and check traps regularly. (Codling moth traps can now be purchased if not familiar with making them.) Check apple trees for woolly aphid and feijoas, apples and pears for bronze beetles that are associated with dry conditions. Water and Mulch beneath fruit trees, extending towards the drip line, to conserve moisture. Strawberries and berry canes will flower and fruit quickly in sunny positions; gooseberries tolerate some shade, while blueberries need acidic, well-drained soil free of lime. If your garden soil is unsuitable, grow them in large pots using an appropriate acidic potting mix. Keep rhubarb well supplied with moisture and compost to prevent dry, stringy stalks. Cheers, Linda

Gardening in Waitaki October 6th 2026

October is bringing plenty of spring colour to Waitaki gardens. Despite strong winds and the occasional cold snap, growth is staying fresh with warm ground and heavy dews. Rhododendrons, tulips and the beautiful bright pink Prunus Kanzan are taking centre stage. Weeds are growing strongly now, particularly convolvulus, couch, biddy-bid and clover. Remove or dig them out before they set seed. If spraying is unavoidable, be extremely careful around roses, as hormone sprays will severely deform their foliage. Never spray on a windy day. The ground is now warm and damp, making it an ideal time for planting. Seeds sown in late winter will be ready to prick out, pot on or plant into the garden. Continue sowing seeds for summer flowers, including sunflowers, cosmos, larkspur, nasturtiums, marigolds, delphiniums and alyssum. Sunflowers are particularly rewarding for children, quickly growing into impressive plants. Swan plants can also be planted now in the hope of attracting monarch butterflies. Pansies and violas will continue flowering while the weather remains cool. Deadhead them regularly, and they can be cut back and fed with liquid fertiliser for another flush of flowers. Polyanthus can be lifted once they have finished, cut back and planted in a cool, shady position until next season.Roses are making buds now, so keep food and moisture up to them. Fortnightly foliar feeding and slow-release fertiliser can benefit flowering plants and shrubs. Coastal gardens are generally ahead of inland areas, although late frosts may damage new rose growth. Fortunately, roses recover quickly.Avoid letting rose foliage stay wet overnight, particularly in mild weather, as this encourages mildew. This is a good time to look critically at overgrown front shrub plantings. Removing one or two large shrubs can completely transform a space and create room for new planting, perhaps a maple surrounded by spring bulbs and hydrangeas for summer colour. Lavenders: take tip cuttings now from firm new growth with a little older wood at the base and place the cuttings in damp, sharp crusher dust. Shrub cuttings can be treated in the same way. Prune woody fuchsias back now as they flower on new growth. Tall chrysanthemums benefit from having their first new growth cut back so they remain shorter and more manageable. It is still a little early to trim box hedges; wait until the new growth has firmed. Hydrangeas are pushing out new growth and forming buds, a thick layer of manure-enriched compost and regular moisture will encourage strong growth and a long flowering season. Begonia tubers are beginning to shoot and can be divided into several plants. Because they are hybrids, they cannot be reliably grown from the seeds. To get a plant that looks exactly like the parent, you must use vegetative propagation, such as division or cuttings; each section must be showing active shoots. Fish fertiliser will help keep begonias growing strongly. Geraniums, pelargoniums and fuchsias are now available in retail outlets for planting. Mulching remains one of the best ways to prepare for a potentially dry summer. Straw, spray-free grass clippings and compost help retain moisture, suppress weeds and improve soil structure. On heavy clay, organic matter helps build new soil and hard-working worms. Keep compost heaps working by layering grass clippings, soft hedge clippings, manure, soil and seed-free garden waste. Moisture is important; water heaps and bins occasionally to encourage the heat needed for good decomposition. Lawns are growing lush as are lawn weeds, I have been busy popping them out with my secature blade before they seed. Keep lawn food handy for the next heavy rain, thick growth leaves no gaps for weeds. Vegetables: Potatoes are growing strongly and should be mounded as they come through the soil; frost cloth may still be needed in colder or low-lying areas. After the recent cold snap, tender crops can be started under glass and hardened off before planting outside. For glasshouse tomatoes, prepare the soil with well-rotted compost. Tomatoes need plenty of sunshine, around six to eight hours a day, and good ventilation. Never allow tomato foliage to remain wet overnight, as the glasshouse can become an ideal environment for fungal disease. Fruit: Apple and crab apple blossom is providing plenty of food for bees, and blackcurrants, strawberries and raspberries are looking promising. Keep fruiting plants watered until we receive some decent rain. Cheers, Linda.

Tomatoe plants.

Gardening in Waitaki 1st October 2026

What a cold snap we have had! The sudden temperature drop will have been hard on plants, with seedlings and soft maple foliage damaged. Here on the North Otago coast the ground will be dry, with gardens needing a good soaking to support new growth while we wait for warmer weather. When temperatures rise, seedlings will soon catch up, but small seedlings have little chance of surviving if planted straight into dry ground, so pot on seedlings into punnets or individual pots first so they can establish a strong root system before planting out. Strong-growing plants such as sunflowers and delphiniums can be sown directly into the ground or peat pots. Think about summer colour now: petunias, lobelia, nemesia and salvia can be raised from seed, while cosmos, poppies, larkspur, nigella and annual lavatera can be sown directly into the garden. The later-flowering cherries are taking centre stage, including Prunus Kanzan and Prunus Shimizu Sakura, although strong North Otago winds can quickly strip their blossom. Spring bulbs are still putting on a show; enjoy them, then allow the foliage to die down naturally so it feeds the bulbs for next year's flowers. Large overcrowded clumps can be divided and given away, a sign at the gate saying “Bulbs to give away – bring a spade!” may soon have takers. Now is also a good time to choose plants for the conditions they will actually have to live in. Dry areas, hungry trees and freely draining ground are unsuitable for shallow-rooted plants such as rhododendrons, azaleas, camellias, hydrangeas and hellebores. Consider deeper-rooted, drought-tolerant plants such as euphorbias, agapanthus, buddleias, grasses, geraniums and lupins once established. For damp, shady areas, hydrangeas, hostas, heucheras, and hellebores are useful choices. Aluminium plant and Acanthus mollis can quickly cover difficult shady ground, although it is best suited to areas where its vigorous spreading habit can be contained. Trim winter-flowering ericas. Cut back fuchsias now to encourage fresh flowering wood, and pinch chrysanthemums several times to keep them bushy. Lawns: Give lawns a good feed during rain to give them a good spring start; lawn weeds can be spot-sprayed now before they run to seed. Keep mower blades higher and scatter only unsprayed clippings lightly around the garden as mulch. Veg Garden: Companion planting can be useful in the vegetable garden. Marigolds and tagetes are traditionally planted among vegetables to help deter pests, while nasturtiums can attract caterpillars away from crops. Basil and tomatoes make good companions; carrots and leeks can be planted together, sage around celery may help deter aphids, and dill attracts bees and other beneficial insects. In the glasshouse, prepare well-composted soil for tomatoes, peppers and cucumbers. Good ventilation is essential, particularly overnight, as damp conditions encourage fungal disease. Tomatoes need plenty of sun, around six to eight hours a day, and can be kept growing strongly with regular feeding and watering. Keep mounding potatoes as they grow to keep light out and encourage a larger crop. Corn can now be planted in groups so the plants support each other, with dill nearby to attract bees. Beans, courgettes, cucumbers, lettuce, tomatoes and basil can also be planted, remembering to protect from cold nights. Sow carrot seed thinly and remove thinnings from the garden to prevent attracting carrot fly. Covering rows with shade cloth (which allows the light needed), can also help prevent the female flies from laying eggs. Fruit trees and bushes need moisture while bees are busy pollinating. Mulch with unsprayed grass clippings out to the drip line and consider netting low trees against birds. Check apple trees for woolly aphid, which appears as white furry patches on branches. Cheers Linda.

October is almost here, and the weather remains changeable. October is a busy month, but it is also one of the most rewarding times in the garden. With the soil warming, plants growing rapidly, and everything beginning to flower, there is plenty to enjoy; however, this is also the month when chasing weeds can become a full-time job, so hoeing and hand-pulling while weeds are small is still the best option in planted areas. Couch grass and convolvulus need particular attention; remove every runner and root you can find, as even small pieces left behind will quickly grow and spread. Once the obvious weeds are cleared, cover the soil with a good layer of weed-free compost or mulch to block light and discourage new weed seeds from germinating. Then it is time to plant, plant, plant! Annuals and perennials will grow rapidly now and soon help to leave no room for weeds. If plants, roses and shrubs have not yet been fed, now is the time. Compost enriched with blood and bone and a little sulphate of potash will provide food and encourage flowering and fruiting. Water new plantings regularly, preferably in the morning, allowing the foliage and soil surface to dry before nightfall. Roses benefit from well-rotted stable manure and compost spread around the drip line rather than dug into the soil, as digging can damage roots. Keep manure away from the stems and spread it around the outer feeding roots. If greenfly appear on young rose growth, they can often be removed with your fingers or a strong jet of water. Once leaves have hardened, birds will also help. Hostas are beginning to unfurl their beautiful leaves, so take care not to damage the pointed tips while working around them. Keep them well watered and give a dressing of compost and blood and bone. Slugs will soon be looking for them too; copper tape around containers or suitable sharp barriers can help keep slugs away. Lilies and peonies are pushing upwards now. Put stakes or supports in place before they become too tall, as it is much easier to support them early. They also appreciate consistent moisture. Camellias that have finished flowering can now be trimmed and shaped. If a bush has become dense, remove some branches from the centre to allow more light and air through, encouraging future bud formation. Keep an eye on blossom trees too; any growth appearing from below the graft should be removed. Lawns are growing quickly now that the soil is warming. New grass seed should be sown thickly and kept moist until established. Do not fertilise newly germinated grass, as fertiliser can be too strong. Established lawns can be fed, preferably when rain is expected, rather than during dry sunny weather when fertiliser may scorch the grass. Vegetable Garden: If you have a vacant patch of ground, why not turn it into a vegetable garden? Clear, expose, and loosen the soil, add compost, and make simple edges using whatever is available. Keep weeds down around the outside and start planting what seedlings are available, but Corn, pumpkin, squash and zucchini need to be sown under cover for protection from cold nights. Tomato plants are available, so get greenhouses ready to hold the summer crop and plant when nights become warmer. Carrots can also be sown now; if carrot fly has been a problem, covering carrot rows with insect netting after germination can help protect the crop. Avoid disturbing the plants unnecessarily, as the scent released when carrots are thinned can attract carrot fly.  Herbs. A sunny spot enriched with compost or well-rotted manure makes a wonderful herb garden, and mixed herb pots planted now will grow quickly and make thoughtful Christmas gifts. Fruit trees, raspberries and gooseberries are flowering, so sunshine and plenty of pollinating insects are especially welcome. Blueberries need acidic soil and consistent moisture; a mulch of pine needles can help maintain suitable conditions for both blueberries and strawberries. News from our wonderful Community Gardens: Their next Community Classroom series runs throughout October. Visit our website  https://www.waitakicommunitygardens.nz/   or look out for flyers. Cheers,Linda.

Gardening in Waitaki 15th September 2026

Spring is certainly keeping us guessing, with warm days followed by cold winds. I still have the frost cloth close at hand, but there is plenty to enjoy as the garden bursts into life. Keep an eye on seedlings now. Those that have germinated under protection will need thinning and regular watering. Transplant shallow-rooted seedlings such as pansies and lobelia into trays, while deeper-rooted plants such as lupins and poppies are better given individual pots. Remember to harden off bought bedding plants before planting them outside. It is also time to prepare hanging baskets and containers. Pansies, lobelia, small petunias, plus many of the other shallow-rooted choices available now. Use slow-release fertiliser and water crystals, and never allow containers to dry out completely. Tuberous begonias can now come out of storage. You can divide large tubers, provided each piece has a healthy shoot. Begonias appreciate seaweed or fish-based fertiliser and are best lifted before winter, when soil remains wet. Put stakes in now for delphiniums, peonies, asters and tall phlox, before they get too tall. When in my past large garden, I would be sowing wildflower seeds thickly into containers for later use as colourful gap-fillers in perennial borders. By keeping them deadheaded, they would flower for months. This is a great time for planting and colour combinations. I recently divided a large clump of lamb’s ear, using the individual plants around borders and amongst annuals. Its silver foliage makes a lovely contrast with stronger colours and adds interesting texture. Early blossom is a reminder that now is the perfect time to choose trees for a new garden. Look beyond the flowers and consider eventual height, spread, roots and where leaves and blossom will fall. Large spreading trees need plenty of room, particularly near houses, paths and concrete. Lavenders are making new growth. A little lime and liquid or slow-release fertiliser will help. Trim scruffy plants, but if they have become very woody with weak growth only at the top, it is time to replace them. Lawns damaged by winter or grass grub can have patches worked and resown now to thicken before summer. Sow seed thickly in spring to help beat annual weeds, keep mower blades raised and feed when rain arrives. Vegetable garden: keep planting through September. Lettuce planted every two weeks will provide a succession of crops, while new potatoes planted now will be ready to enjoy for Christmas. Keep broad beans well watered and mound soil around their shallow roots to prevent them drying out. Fruit: I am seeing fruit bush and grape varieties on sale locally, and I feel it is important to choose varieties compatible with North Otago conditions. Blueberry varieties proven for growing here are.... 1. Reka, very productive and vigorous. Early fruiting, generally around late November to late December 2. Nui for exceptionally large berries. If you want two, plant Reka + Nui; they pollinate well together. 3. Bluecrop is also an excellent traditional choice and is vigorous and productive. Blueberries are shallow-rooted and really dislike drying out. They also need acid soil, around pH 4.5–5.5 Plant in a really good organic planting mix, pine-bark/sawdust mulch and deep, regular watering, rather than letting them dry out between waterings. Grape varieties for North Otago outdoor planting: 1. Iona – very hardy, coastal-suitable, and ripens in March–April. 2. Albany Surprise – a dependable outdoor grape with large black, sweet fruit.3. Niagara or Schuyler – good choices for coastal conditions. Plant grapes in the warmest, sunniest, most sheltered position possible, preferably against a north-facing wall. Raspberry canes that do well in North Otago: 1. Aspiring: large, excellent flavour, and crops twice. 2. Heritage: Very reliable, long autumn crop and easy pruning. Autumn Bliss: large fruit and earlier autumn crop. 4. Willamette: Excellent traditional summer raspberry. Blackcurrants are starting to make flowers but can still be thinned to let light in, followed by a compost mulch. Cheers, Linda.