Gardening in Waitaki April 23rd 2024

Autumn and nature have it right, leaves fall to cover the ground protecting roots from the cold to come but in home gardens, there will be a lot of raking going on. In my past large garden, I would be filling wool pack after wool pack with leaves which would be turned into mulch and compost to be returned to the garden come spring. Erica's - Give amazing winter colour to a garden, if they were cut after their last flowering they should have gone through the Summer looking fresh and green. Now as the days get shorter and colder Erica's buds start to flower. There are many different types in shades of, pink, lavender, and white, and as well as ground covers some are upright growing. Erica's need full sun and good drainage and look great planted in groups. Roses: I stop deadheading roses now, pull off the spent blooms, and let the seeds form which will harden the wood needing to be pruned in July. Remove all diseased leaves from bushes and on the ground around bushes before mulching to bed them down for winter. Tidy up daylilies, by pulling off old leaves and cutting back those that will not pull off, divide overgrown clumps by putting a sharp spade through the clump and transplanting pieces with a little blood and bone then mulch to retain moisture. Seed collection should be full on now as plants age seeds are popping all over the place, nature is so generous with seeds during autumn. Seeds I planted not so long ago are up and growing well, I will nurse them along in a warm spot until spring. Potting them up before then should they put on a lot of growth before the cold slows them right down. Lawns:My lawn was fertilised during the last heavy rain and is now green, boosted and ready for what winter will throw at it. Vegetables: With not being able to buy veg plants for a while let a few veg go to seed because I see seed is hard to come by as well. let seed brown off before picking to continue ripening in a paper bag. Peas, lettuce, cauliflower, silver beet, spinach, rocket, and beetroot all seed well. If you have grain on hand plant some as a green crop to add humus to the soil when dug in. Fruit Gather late fruiting peaches, apples & pears and if storing check there are no even slightly damaged fruit as they will soon rot and affect the sound fruit. A dressing of lime now will assist next season's fruiting. Feed citrus bushes, manure, seaweed-based fertilizer then mulch. Clean up strawberry beds, removing runners, and potting up a few from closest to the Mother plant to encourage good roots for replacing plants older than 3 years. Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in Waitaki April 17th 2024

Waitaki valley autumn.

Waitaki is now enjoying Autumn splendor with orange, gold, and red leaves fluttering to the ground with every wind gust. I have had my small hedge trimmer out this week. In my past garden, it took no time to create havoc, and then spent days cleaning it all up but now, it takes me no time at all in my new low-maintenance garden. I trimmed small hebes, and ornamental grasses, and shaped standard shrubs. I am collecting seeds from the garden to dry every day and also taking lots of cuttings, these I leave in a bucket of willow water until I get time to prepare and plant into crusher dust. This is the very best time to do this as the days are still warm but not long and hot like summer days that dry out cuttings. The cooler nights retain moisture in seedling and cutting trays which means they can be forgotten about until the spring. By then cuttings should have enough feeder roots to be potted up in their own pots to grow on ready for planting at the end of spring. Cuttings I have been taking are lavender, Marguerite daisy, Hebe, hydrangea, choisya, geranium and roses (always use a stem that has flowered). These plants are all semi-hardwood plants and should push out roots in no time. Even though there is some moisture in the ground from the recent rain the ground is still very dry, so keep the hoses going, and then when soaked in get compost and mulch on to keep it there. Feed plants and shrubs that have been busting themselves flowering with blood & bone, this is good right now because it is not high in nitrogen which will only push new growth out and its hardening off we are wanting from plants now to take them into the winter. All bulbs would benefit from a dressing of blood and bone as well. Remove shading from glass houses now and reduce the watering, more light less watering for pot plants inside as well. If you have small evergreen shrubs and conifers that need to be shifted do it now, as long as the root ball is not to well spread they should transplant well. Rhododendrons, camellias and azaleas can be shifted now as well. Lawns have picked up since the rain and night's cooling, they can have a dressing of lime now which will condition the soil and work its way in over the winter months to sweeten sour ground in time for new spring growth. Moss in a lawn is a good indication of sour ground and bad drainage. Lime can also be spread around clematis, lavender, lavatera, dianthus, carnations and all herb clumps. Keep picking fresh herb growth and dry by spreading out on newspaper to leave in a dry place inside where they can be left undisturbed until dry enough to be crushed and stored in glass jars for cooking when there are no fresh herbs about. Vegetable gardens are holding thier own again now that it is not being baked through long summer days, plants are sitting up again and growing well without bolting. Leeks are available now for planting, they are planted lying down in a trench that will hold water to get them going, and then they will sit up and grow fast. I planted some wheat in vacant areas of my veg patch this week, I will dig it in before it gets past the leaf stage and this will add nice humus to the soil. Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in Waitaki 9th April 2024

Peony ready for cutting back.

Lovely autumn days over the last week with a noticeable drop in temperature morning and night now daylight saving has changed. If shrubs and climbers need to be cut back it should be done now while there is still time for plants to recover, and bud up again before June.  Peony roses: If you are planning to move a peony this is the best time when peonies are nearing or in dormancy. Peonies start to become dormant when foliage is rapidly losing colour, leaf dieback adds strength to tubas so foliage needs to be left on and then cut down to the ground level when completely dried back. Dispose of what has been cut off to prevent carry-over of fungal infections. If planting a planting site should be sunny and well-drained, deep fertile soil is best but they can still do ok in quite poor soils as long as they never become waterlogged (especially over winter). Planting depth is important, too deep means they will spend time pushing up to the right depth, find the uppermost bud on the crown, and plant so that the base of the bud is 5 cm (2") from the soil surface. Don't expect much growth in the first year.  Tree peony stems remain alive, only remove diseased leaves and wait until spring to cut out dead wood stems.   This is the best time to shift small evergreen shrubs and conifers, as long as the root ball is not too well spread they should transplant well. Rhododendrons, camellias, and azaleas can be shifted now as well.  There is still time on the coast to divide border plants, perennials, and rock plants, new roots will be made before growth stops. In very cold districts leave the dead top growth on, safer to remove in spring but If you are mulching with straw this will do the same job.  Hellebores will benefit from fortnightly feeding now to encourage better blooms. Remove old foliage, but in colder areas, it is best to leave some top growth on to protect new growth, flowers will soon shoot up past the old leaves. Destroy all removed old leaves because greenflies winter over on the underside of hellebore leaves. Only feed bulbs and plants that are due to flower now, all other plants will be slowing their growth right down to sleep through winter. Plants like camellia, azaleas, and rhododendrons that have been tucked away in a shady spot over the hot months should be moved into a sunny spot now. Shrubs in pots get root-bound and hungry, If you feed them when flowering finished they should be fine. If not then give them a little fertiliser and water well to give them a boost.  Compost: Keep layering fallen leaves on the compost along with animal manure, soft garden green waste, hedge trimmings, and un-sprayed grass clippings. Add some leftover compost from your last lot to the layers. Give heaps and bins a good watering from time to time to get things started. With the very warm days we have had, compost heaps should be building up heat which should remain working well into the coldest months, then they will just sit until days get longer and the ground warms again.  Lawns have picked up since the nights have cooled and dew is back. Spot spraying clover and flat weeds works best in the heat of the day when plants are thirsty, I only spot spray where needed because I would hate to kill hard-working worms. Grass grub-damaged areas can be raked out and resown now, thankfully germination of grass seed is very fast during autumn. Next time we get rain gypsum and fine compost can be spread over compacted lawns to soften and add humus.  Vegetables I have planted broad beans, carrots, celery, and leek seeds and have had to have the hose out to give the vegetable gardens a good soak.  Leek seedlings should be available now for planting, they are planted lying down in a trench that will hold water to get them going, they will soon sit up and grow fast. Remove shading from glass and tunnel houses now and reduce watering. Fruit If you have apple trees laden, some can be picked unripe and stored in a cool dry place, but leave as many as you intend to eat on the tree to ripen naturally. Some will still be picking those delicious late peaches.  Cheers, Linda.

Leek seedlings ready to plant in a wet trench.

Gardening in Waitaki April 2nd 2024

With Easter behind us, for me this has always been the time for action in the garden. Clearing out spent growth and collecting seeds as I move about in the flower garden then spreading compost over all cleared gardens, I mix my ready compost with pig manure to give the soil a boost after all the summer growing then let it all settle before mulching areas that require it and filling gaps with winter/spring colour. Calendula, pansy, viola, polyanthus, ornamental kale, primula malacoides, snapdragon, wallflower. Here on the coast in a warm sunny position get any of these planted early to reach the budding stage while there is still warmth in the soil and they will go onto. Further inland planting will need to wait until early spring. Ranunculus and anemones will be on offer in Garden centers now, They are good value because they multiply well and give vibrant or soft mid-height colour to an early spring garden. Ranunculus and anemone corms look very dried up and brittle in the packet when bought, soak them overnight and they will become nice and plump before planting, plant at least five together in groups to get the best effect. Dried Blood is an easy way to replenish the nitrogen content in the soil for plants needing to perform through winter, Polyanthus, Primulas, Pansies, and Cyclamen love it and will flourish when you add dried blood to their diet. I have been taking tip cuttings of many plants, so many plants can be produced from rooted cuttings. Snip 10 cm long tips from the shrubs you want more of. Remove lower leaves and halve soft top growth before pushing them into river sand/crusher dust to make roots. Roots will develop over winter. Leafy tip cuttings from all hedge-type shrubs can be taken now along with tip growth from lavender, daisy bushes, hebes, lavatera, salvias, and geraniums. Roses are producing lovely shades for the last flowering, no more deadheading or feeding as they need to make seed heads to help harden wood. Leucadendrons develop rich colour as days and nights become colder, picking the bracts is a must to keep both leucadendrons and proteas from becoming top-heavy and blowing over. Picked bracts will last in a vase for weeks, even months. All South African plants resent any form of phosphates. potassium and nitrate fertiliser, a little blood and bone in spring will keep them looking good. On the coast prune back perennial wallflowers and buddleias now to encourage new growth for winter, do the same to Marguerite daisies. Further inland take hardwood cuttings from daisies, pot up, and protect over winter. Lawn: I have been filling with soil divots I created by hoeing out weeds and rogue-coarse grass clumps, I then worked in grass seed as this is a good time to sow grass seed for good germination without annual weeds taking over. Vegetable garden: Pumpkin leaves will soon let you know when they are ready to harvest, bring them in if there is any threat of frost. Leave the plump stem attached to the stalk, leave in a warm sunny spot for skins to harden then store in a dry place. Corn should be ready for eating and freezing, tomatoes also, I have been making and bottling a lot of tomato sauce from plump ripe tomatoes. Sow onion and celery seeds and plant all the winter veg seedlings on offer in garden centers. Fruit: Still a lot being picked from trees and vines, I like to think when storing autumn bounty we are capturing the summer sun stored within to be enjoyed during those cold dark months to come. With my new garden being only 2 years old I have been fortunate enough to have acquired a very generous neighbor who shares cooking apples, peaches, pears, and tomatoes with us and a generous amount of walnuts have come my way to dry and store. LUCKY ME! Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in Waitaki 27th March 2024

We will soon be rolling into the cooling down. month of April but thank goodness days stay warm a little longer even if the nights and mornings are cooler. Autumn here in Waitaki is usually more predictable than spring or summer, a time to reap and sow lest all be lost to the frost. Growth here has had the benefit of good rain to keep things green longer. It is a good time to view the light situation around your garden before leaves fall, because of trees and shrubs getting taller and wider every year blocking out light. Note what trees and shrubs to reduce in height and width and which trees and shrubs to remove all together. Sometimes one tree or shrub will do the job of the two or three in one spot. Sacrifice trees that give little interest for trees close by that offer more, and shrubs that have grown too big in the front of a garden hiding what is behind need to be cut back, maybe wrenched for shifting later or cut out. I have at times changed the whole look of gardens by removing a few front shrubs/trees to let the sun in and then planting sun-loving plants. Here on the coast keep cutting back large daisy and lavatera bushes to encourage new buds that will flower over the next two months. Also get all hedges cut back now before frosts start, this will be the last cut until the new growth in spring. This is just the time to clean up garden areas that have been flowering all summer and to visit the garden centres to choose plants for planting now to bud up before winter, if planted while the ground is still warm to get the roots going they will continue to get enough winter sun to carry on and bloom. Suggestions: viola, snapdragon, pansy, polyantha, stock, calendula, wall flowers, sweet William and good old primula malacoides. Seeds of all plants mentioned can also be sown, they should pop up very quickly to be pricked out and potted into punnets to plant out if we have a mild start to winter or held over and protected until spring. Planting shrubs: If you want to plant evergreen shrubs other than conifers now is the time or wait until the frosts are over, once frosts start it is only deciduous trees/shrubs and conifers that will cope with the really cold nights ahead. Keep planting spring bulbs in the warm ground and Hybrid clematis are still on offer, the lovely huge blooms, deciduous type which I mentioned a couple of weeks ago. This type are not as invasive as the Montana variety. They love being planted into warm autumn ground and are so pretty growing in with other climbers and scrambling through climbing roses that flower at a different time to them. All clematis like manure and lime. Strengthen plant growth by applying potash to plants, Potassium hardens up plant growth and helps prevent damage from winter chills. Lawns: Spot spray lawn weeds if they are taking over your lawn and apply sifted compost and gypsum to lawns if they are compacted ( a bucket to the square metre). the compost will improve the humus content and the gypsum will soften clay soils. If you have had a good strike with a newly sown lawn delay cutting until the grass is 7-8 centimetres high, set the blades high and avoid cutting when the ground is wet and soft. Veg: I have dug the last of my potatoes and stored them with a covering of herbs. Pumpkins can be left growing until the threat of frosts then harvested and hardened in a dry sunny place before storing. Time to dig up and divide Rhubarb crowns, mixing in heaps of compost before replanting. Sow: Spinach, Snap Peas, brussel sprouts, board beans and spring onions, fill the top of a shallow pot with spring Onions to have handy by the back door, start thinning when plants are still quite small, and pull them as they’re needed. Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in Waitaki March 19th 2024

My autumn perennial garden.

What wonderful rain yesterday which will probably keep autumn growth greener when ripening and drying is what is required in autumn, I am sure Farmers loved it, moisture down deep before winter. Cut back everything that has finished flowering, I need no encouragement in this area so the wheelbarrow has been getting good use. Once I start chopping back at this time of the year there is no stopping me from leaving destruction in my wake. Plants that get the chop: Acanthus mollis (bears britches), agapanthus, tall phlox, daylilies, damaged hellebore, hosta leaves, buddleia, honeysuckle, jasmine, abutilon, evergreen viburnum, alstroemeria, hebe's, iris and all leggy, gone to seed herbs. Iris: While working my way around I dealt with all the bearded iris by cutting leaves back by two-thirds and making sure the top of rhizomes were above ground to bake in the autumn sun. Shift any in shade to a sunny position. Iris's are well worth the trouble of growing and look wonderful planted together enabling them to put on a grand display on their own. Propagation is usually 6-8 weeks after blooming rhizomes can be divided, leaving a chunk of rhizomes and roots to every new division. Bulbs, Bulbs, Bulbs: To create a spring explosion in your garden plant them now, bluebells and snowdrops can cope with dappled shade, the daffodil family needs sun, hyacinths look great in either pots or garden, ranunculus and anemones are vibrant after a long dull winter and freesia's love a sunny warm spot as do all the other spring bulbs on offer, Tulips are planted in May. Over years of multiplying bulbs can take over garden beds so If your bulb clumps are getting too big offer some to other gardeners who I am sure would gladly dig them up and find the perfect spot in their garden for them or take them to our resource recovery park and from there they will find a good home. It's time to cut back ornamental grass, pull seed heads away with a rake leaving grass clumps a lot tidier. Clumps can be trimmed back if getting too big or divided by putting a spade through the middle and removing half. Sometimes I have to dig the whole grass out to do this, then put the spade through and pull it apart while standing on half. If you are thinking of adding roses or more roses to your garden I suggest looking at rose variety books or going online to make your choices and then getting your order into Garden centers. New season roses will begin arriving in June and by ordering now you will be sure not to miss out. Herbs: Perennial herbs, chives, mint, thyme, sage, and marjoram can be divided and replanted. Basil, a summer annual, should be harvested before cold weather, it can be dried or frozen. Parsley can be grown from seed if sown now. Lawns would benefit from a dressing of fertilizer during the next heavy rain to wash it in to boost lawns before winter. Fruit: Late peaches should be ready to pick now and nectarine trees can have a summer prune. Citrus trees should be putting out new growth after heavy cropping, and feed with citrus fertilizer before winter. All fruit trees benefit from a dressing of potash around the drip line in autumn. Vegetables. March is an important month for planting winter veg, prepare before planting with compost, general garden fertiliser, and lime if needed, (I add lime to my compost) beetroot, broccoli, Brussel sprouts, cauliflower, spinach, and silverbeet seedlings can be planted but will need to be protected from the white butterfly. A framework to hold strawberry net stretched over plants would do the trick. Any areas of the vegetable garden not being used for vegetables can be planted with a green manure cover crop to be dug in before it flowers to enrich the soil for spring and summer crops. Oats, blue lupin, and mustard are good options.

Gardening in Waitaki March 12th 2024

With nights cooling and days shortening it will not be long before the major leaf drop but going from my past notes trees are holding leaves green longer this year, probably due to the rain showers North Otago has been lucky to have received during summer. Low branches on large trees will probably need to be lifted to let more light onto lawns and plants below. Wisteria, jasmine, and honeysuckle climbers can be trimmed along with hedges and shrubs if needed. Rose deadheading will be the last for this growing season, roses will soon need to stop putting out new soft growth as rosewood needs time to harden from now on before the big winter prune, which means allowing spent blooms to make seed. Keep deadheading dahlias, petunias, and geraniums to keep them flowering through until the first frost, and continue to remove spent summer annuals so the soil can be worked ready for winter flowering annuals such as primulas, wall flowers, polyanthas, pansies, and violas. Fork in some compost and soak well before replanting. Be on the lookout for useful self-sown seedlings such as foxglove, lupin, cineraria, hollyhock, and primula malacoides, they can be transplanted now to settle in before winter. Peony roses are on offer now, they are worth planting with their big showy blooms taking over from the spring rhododendron displays, be careful when planting not to disturb the new shoots (eyes) forming. A peony root to be planted should contain at least 3 eyes that will eventually become stems. A root with only 1 or 2 eyes will still grow, but it will take longer to flower. Peonies are very adaptable, but they do prefer sunny, well-drained, slightly acidic soil and benefit from compost added when planting, they can remain in the same spot for upwards of 70 years. Peony roots should be planted relatively close to the soil surface; only about 2-3 inches deep. It may seem odd to leave roots so exposed, but they need chilling to attain dormancy and set buds. Lift gladioli bulbs now and store them in a dry place, if left in the ground they may be attacked by pests. Lawns: Get new lawns sown now, the cooler nights and mornings are allowing the moisture to remain longer after watering and a strike will happen pretty fast as the ground is still nice and warm. Vegetables: Good growth is still happening as long as the water is kept up, pumpkins and corn should be ready to harvest, dry off pumpkin and squash skins before storing them in a cool dry place. This is a good time for planting above-ground annual crops that produce their seeds outside like lettuce, spinach, celery, broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, and grain green crops for digging in to add humus to tired soil. Cheers, Linda.

Autumn lawn sowing gets best results.