Gardening in Waitaki 1st September 2026

“Tra La” – spring at last, and what a welcome it is. After winter, every day seems to bring something new into the garden. Sweet peas, ranunculus, anemones and tulips are pushing through. The bees will soon be busy on sunny days, although a cold snap or frost can still remind us that spring has only just begun. There is plenty to do, but after winter, getting back into the garden feels like a privilege. Recent rain softened the ground beautifully, and those strong winds made it necessary to get hoses out. This an ideal time for planting and weeding; weeds are also enjoying the warmer conditions, so hoe or hand-pull them while they are small and before they flower and set seed. While working around the garden, take stock of jobs needing attention. Stake delphiniums before they become too tall, remove excess mulch from iris rhizomes and peony crowns, and cut back old catmint if it has not already been done. Spring feeding: Plants, shrubs and trees will respond to spring feeding. Liquid-feed perennials and bedding plants, while trees and shrubs will benefit from a good general fertiliser. Camellias, azaleas and rhododendrons can show yellowing after winter as shallow-rooted plants use available nitrogen, so give them the acid fertiliser formulated for these plants. Roses are pushing strongly now; if yours have not yet been pruned, do it promptly as the buds are swelling. Seeds and seedlings: Winter-sown pansies and dianthus can be thinned and potted into deeper trays, while lupins, hellebores and Oriental poppies benefit from individual small root pots so they develop a good root ball before planting out. Sow late-spring and summer flowers into seed trays, keeping them raised off the cold ground and protected with glass or clear plastic. A mist spray in the morning is preferable when watering small seedlings. It is also time to think about baskets and pots, using shallow-rooted plants such as pansies, primulas, and dwarf sweet peas until the weather warms enough for petunias, lobelia and begonias.Ornamental grasses can be given their spring haircut, cutting away old seed heads and clearing the dead thatch from around the base. The material can be reused as mulch, compost cover or bedding for animals. Lawns: Give lawns an early spring feed just before, or during, rainfall, or hose if dry so the nutrients are washed in. Keep the mower blades higher as grass comes out of dormancy. If moss is a problem, sulphate of iron can be watered over affected areas; once the moss turns black, rake it out. But remember that moss is usually a symptom of an underlying problem such as waterlogging, shade, compaction or mowing too closely. Vegetables: There is plenty to do in the vegetable garden. On the coast, sow lettuce, spring onions, carrots and peas, and plant leafy vegetables at two-week intervals for a continuous supply. Protect young plants from frost and birds. Frost cloth is perfect as plants still get enough light while hiding seedlings from birds. Prepare ground for potatoes and get seed potatoes planted when the soil is suitable. Do not rush parsnips, beans, corn, pumpkins or squash into cold ground – they need much warmer soil to germinate. Start pumpkin, butternut, squash and corn under protection now to give them the long growing season they need. Fruit: Peach and nectarine buds are at bud burst, so this is the last opportunity to apply copper spray for leaf curl – once the trees are in blossom it is too late. Prune peaches and nectarines now if necessary, remembering that they fruit on wood produced last summer. Gooseberries can also be thinned before the leaves arrive, removing crowded branches and raising the lower “skirt” to make picking easier. Strawberries are beginning to move towards budding and will appreciate a mulch of compost or old animal manure, covered with straw or pine needles. Prune blueberries now  . Remove dead, diseased, weak, crossing, and low-growing branches, keeping the bush open and vase-shaped for good light and airflow. Every 3–4 years, remove one or two oldest canes at ground level to encourage new growth. Overgrown bushes can be cut back hard, but this may sacrifice a season’s crop. Feed with an acid-loving fertiliser, mulch well and water during dry periods. Avoid excess nitrogen, which encourages leaves rather than fruit. Prune Prunus trees on a fine day, removing weak or crossing branches before they become large.  Early spring is also a time to think beyond our own gardens. Native green corridors through Waitaki can soften urban streets, provide habitat and encourage birds and wildlife. The cycle track between Oamaru and Weston and the planting around Cape Wanbrow show what can be achieved when people plant for biodiversity as well as beauty.Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in Waitaki August 21 2026

Spring has arrived in the garden, although recent frosts remind us that winter has not quite released its grip; Blossoms are appearing everywhere, and magnolias are throwing off their woolly coverings and opening their spectacular flowers, while winter sweet and violets fill the garden with fragrance. Keep frost cloth handy for seedlings and tender plants for a little longer. This is a busy time in the garden, with plants waking rapidly and putting their energy into new growth. Feeding is one of the most important jobs now. Roses in particular are moving quickly and should be fed as soon as possible. A good feed now will encourage strong, healthy growth and can reduce the need for spraying later. Most shrubs and perennials will appreciate feeding too, followed by a good soak if the soil is dry. With spring growth beginning, this is the time to regain control of shrubs that have become too large. Soft shrubs encroaching on paths and driveways can be trimmed back now and will soon produce fresh growth. If height is the problem, removing the tall central leader to where the side branches begin can reduce height considerably without destroying the shrub's shape. Remember that spring-flowering shrubs and climbers may already be carrying flower buds, so prune carefully. Delay pruning jasmines until the risk of frost has passed. Roses can still be pruned while they are dormant or just beginning to move, depending on your location and the weather. Feed them now and prepare for pruning once the timing is right. If planting a new rose where a rose has previously grown, replace the old soil with fresh soil from elsewhere in the garden to reduce the chance of transferring rose disease. Magnolias are taking centre stage. They prefer slightly acidic soils and grow beautifully alongside camellias, rhododendrons and azaleas. Choose carefully for the space available: Lavender can be trimmed as new growth appears. Old, woody plants can be cut back hard enough to encourage fresh shoots, although very old bushes may be better replaced. Give new lavender a light trim, some compost and a little lime. Late winter and early spring are also a good time to think carefully about trees for the future. In smaller town gardens, large-growing trees can eventually create considerable work through leaf fall, pruning, shade and invasive roots. Before buying, always read the mature height and width on the label. Smaller trees such as flowering dogwoods, Cercis canadensis ‘Forest Pansy’, crab apples and Robinia ‘Lace Lady’ can provide beauty without the scale of an oak, ash, elm or large maple. For those wanting larger trees in a smaller garden, controlled root-growing systems such as Evergrow planter bags can provide another option, allowing a tree to develop naturally while restricting its ultimate size. There is still time to divide hostas before leaves emerge. Lift established clumps and divide them with a sharp spade, ensuring each piece has good roots and shoots. Dahlias can also be planted now in sunny, well-drained positions; tubers will remain dormant until the soil warms. Sowing seeds under cover. Seedlings sown earlier should now be appearing and can be given a weekly liquid feed. I sow seeds in trays containing compost and soil, with a thin layer of seed-raising mix on top. Cover trays with glass or plastic, but allow air to circulate to prevent dampness and disease. Keep frost cloth handy for young plants. Vegetable gardens are waking too. Prepare beds by digging in weed-free compost and allowing the soil to settle before planting. Shallots, lettuce, beetroot and broad beans can still be planted, with frost protection provided for young plants. Early seed potatoes can be planted, but protect emerging foliage from late frosts. Unused vegetable areas will benefit from a green crop such as mustard, lupins, barley or wheat. Dig it into the soil while it is still lush and green, before the stems become tough and slow to break down. This adds valuable organic matter and helps tired soil. Lawns are beginning to green up after winter. If moss is a problem, it's often a sign of shade, compaction or acidic soil. Sulphate of iron can be used to control moss; once it has blackened, rake it out, aerate the lawn and apply a suitable feed. Adding compost to heavy clay soil lawns will improve the condition and help prepare the lawn for the drier months ahead. Fruit trees and berry bushes will benefit from attention now. Apply a potash-rich fertiliser to encourage flowering and fruiting. Deciduous fruit trees and berry canes should be planted without delay. Thin raspberries by removing old canes that have already fruited, along with weak and excess shoots. Citrus, particularly lemons, appreciate citrus fertiliser and a deep watering. Keep grass and weeds away from trunks and mulch well. Cheers, Linda. Securing Raspberry canes.

Gardening in Waitaki August 12th 2026

As we move further into August, there is a definite feeling that spring is edging ever closer. Along the North Otago coast, frosts will ease as temperatures become milder. Heavy rain has left the ground beautifully soft for spring bulbs to push through quickly, tulips are already showing well, and daffodils, jonquils and other bulbs are racing towards bud. If we do get another sharp cold snap, it will simply hold the buds for a while, although any soft new growth may feel the effects. Gardens are already beginning to brighten with the flowers of early camellias, Rhododendron 'Christmas Cheer' and Prunus autumnalis. Perfume will be drifting through gardens from winter sweet, witch hazel, daphne, boronia, and violets, which is a wonderful reminder that spring is not far away. August is one of the best months for planting trees and shrubs; the soil is moist for roots to establish during spring. Trees take years to reach their full beauty, but every one planted today is an investment for future generations. The damp soil has reminded me how easily many shrubs layer themselves. Viburnums, choisyas, camellias and hydrangeas often drop low branches that naturally form roots where they touch the soil. These rooted sections can be left until well established before being cut from the parent plant and potted up. You can also encourage this by pegging a low branch into the soil after making a slight wound in the bark. Winter pruning continues. Remove old, tired wood from weigelas and spireas, lightly trim prickly berberis, cut buddleias back hard to encourage fresh silvery leaf growth, and clip away all the old foliage from catmint. Wisterias also benefit from attention now. Remove the long whippy leaders that have grown since summer, leaving only the framework required to cover the support. Avoid pruning the short flowering spurs, as these carry this season's blooms. Larger reductions are best left until after flowering. Peony roses should have all last year's stems removed and destroyed, as diseases can overwinter on old growth. Be careful not to damage the bright pink shoots emerging from the crown. Dahlias can also have their old stems removed. If the stems are hollow, bend them over after cutting to prevent rain from collecting inside and rotting tubers. Bearded irises are beginning to move now. Pull back any soil or mulch covering the rhizomes so they are partially exposed, then apply a light dressing of lime and potash to encourage flowering. Avoid nitrogen-rich fertilisers, which promote leaves rather than flowers. Rose pruning should be underway with buds beginning to swell, and the roots becoming active, making this the ideal time to apply rose fertiliser or aged manure around the drip line. Water powdered fertilisers in well, while slow-release products will feed gradually each time it rains. Lawns: The last heavy rain will have highlighted areas where lawns drain poorly. Resist the temptation to walk on saturated lawns, but make a note of any hollows that will need levelling later. Birds busily searching for worms are also helping aerate compacted soil. While the ground remains moist, a light topdressing of compost will add valuable organic matter, particularly on heavy clay soils. Vegetable gardens: Allow wet soils to drain before planting. Garlic and shallots can still be planted into well-prepared ground, while strawberries will establish well now in raised beds, containers or hanging planters. Good drainage remains the key to success. Fruit: Continue pruning gooseberries by removing crossing branches and lifting the lower growth clear of the ground. Any rooted branches can be potted up to produce healthy new plants. Newly planted fruit trees should also be cut back . It seems drastic, but this first pruning encourages a well-shaped tree with fruit that will remain within easy reach for many years to come. And when blossom finally appears, let's hope for plenty of warm sunny days to bring the bees out to do the job they do so well. Cheers, Linda

Gardening in Waitaki August 11th 2026

Wow, what a polar blast we've had this week! North Otago escaped relatively lightly compared with many other parts of Otago. August is always an unpredictable month for gardeners. Just when the soil begins to warm, and spring seems within reach, winter often has one last icy reminder. Even so, each day brings fresh signs of the changing season, with snowdrops, jonquils, early blossom and magnolias bravely standing up to the cold. This is one of the best times to visit garden centres if you are thinking of planting camellias or rhododendrons. Most are now flowering, making it much easier to choose the colours that will complement your garden. Both perform best in semi-shade or areas protected from the hot afternoon sun. I know the cold does not encourage seed sowing, but if sown now in good light, up off the cold ground and protected under glass, you will get them to germinate and grow on for an early start for spring flowering. Seed trays I sowed three weeks ago under glass are showing the first stages of growth. To make expensive seed-raising mix go further, I fill trays with compost and sifted soil, then add a thin layer of seed-raising mix on top.  Roses will benefit from feeding if you haven't already done so because roots are moving and buds are swelling. Aged manure is perfect, slow-release fertilisers are also a good food choice, providing nutrients over many months and help to keep plants healthy and vigorous. This is the time to plant the roses now on offer in Garden centers. Peonies and gladioli can also be planted now, along with Lilies, but those being lifted should be replanted immediately, as their bulbs never truly become dormant and dislike drying out.  Lavenders beginning to show fresh growth can be trimmed now. Older woody bushes can be cut back by about half to encourage fresh shoots lower down, while younger plants need only a light clip. A sprinkle of lime around the base will help maintain the sweet soil lavenders enjoy. If an old lavender has struggled for several seasons, replacing it may be the better option. Hydrangeas are also showing new shoots near the base, signalling that pruning can begin. Remove the stems that flowered last summer back to the second healthy bud from the bottom, leaving the remaining younger stems to produce next season's blooms. Remember, pink hydrangeas prefer alkaline soils while blue varieties require acidic conditions. If your blue hydrangea insists on turning pink, growing it in a large container filled with acidic potting mix is often the most reliable solution. Many climbers are already carrying flower buds, so trim carefully. Hardenbergia (Happy Wanderer) can be cut back after flowering, while jasmine that has been touched by frost is best left until warmer weather confirms which stems have survived. There is still time to divide established hostas before they come into full growth. Lift mature clumps, divide them into several healthy pieces with a sharp spade, and replant immediately. Hostas also make excellent container plants, but remember that emerging leaves are irresistible to slugs, so protect them early with prickly twiggy prunings. Comfrey is one of the garden's most valuable plants. Its deep roots draw nutrients from well below the soil surface and store them in the leaves. Pack chopped leaves into a lidded container and leave them to break down into a dark liquid. Diluted with water, it becomes a nutrient-rich feed high in potassium, ideal for flowering plants, tomatoes and other fruiting crops. Plant comfrey where it has room to spread, as it can become quite vigorous.  Lawns often show patches of moss at this time of year. While products containing sulphate of iron will blacken and kill moss, lasting success depends on correcting the cause. Poor drainage, soil compaction, excessive shade, acidic soil, mowing too closely, or poor fertility can all encourage moss to thrive. Healthy, well-fed lawns that are aerated and mown correctly rarely have serious moss problems. Plan your first spring lawn feed just before steady rain. Vegetable gardens deserve attention now. Dig compost into empty beds and allow the soil to settle before planting. If you're not using a bed immediately, sow a green crop such as mustard, oats, lupins, barley or wheat to improve soil structure and organic matter. Dig these crops in while still soft and leafy, before they become coarse and stemmy. Existing asparagus beds should be carefully cultivated without damaging the crowns, while new beds benefit from deep cultivation and plenty of compost. Sprouted potatoes can be planted now for an early crop, and winter cauliflower can be protected from frost by tying the outer leaves over the developing heads. Fruit trees and berry bushes are preparing for another busy season. A dressing of potash will encourage better flowering and fruiting, while a thorough watering followed by a generous mulch will help conserve moisture as growth accelerates. Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in Waitaki 1st August 2026

August often teases us with the first true signs of spring. A run of mild, sunny days can have both gardeners and plants believing winter is behind them, but experience tells us there is usually one last burst of cold before the seasons finally turn. As daylight hours lengthen, dormant plants begin to stir, and fresh growth emerges, making this a particularly vulnerable time in the garden. Enjoy the early magnolias and blossoms, but remember that late frosts can still damage tender new growth and delicate fruit blossom.   The recent warmth will help dry heavy, waterlogged soils, making it a good time to check for areas where water lingers. Plants left in wet ground for too long can suffer root damage. To improve drainage, create channels to carry excess water away or add stones/gravel beneath newly planted shrubs and trees. Gardens that missed an autumn application of compost will still benefit from a generous layer spread over the soil. Earthworms will gradually work the organic matter into the ground, improving soil structure before spring growth begins. August is an ideal month for pruning. Finish winter rose pruning if you haven't already, remove all prunings and old leaves, then feed with manure-enriched compost, blood and bone, or a quality rose fertiliser.  Wisterias can have long, whippy leaders removed, keeping only the main framework. Avoid cutting back flowering spurs now, as next season's flower buds are already forming.  Many deciduous shrubs can now be rejuvenated. Remove old wood from weigelas and spireas, trim berberis, cut buddleias back hard to encourage fresh silvery growth, and clip away the old stems from catmint.  Hydrangeas will be showing swelling buds; prune old flowering stems back to the second pair of buds from the branch bottom while leaving non-flowering shoots untouched, as these will carry new season's blooms. Thick, woody hydrangea cuttings can also be taken now and rooted in damp river sand. Winter gardens are brightened by hellebores, which are now attracting bees on mild days. Once pollinated, their seed heads begin to develop and the flower stems become firm enough for picking. Seedlings often appear beneath established plants and can be transplanted after their second year, although patience is required as they may take four years to flower. Snow-damaged marguerite daisies are best left alone until frosts have finished. The damaged growth helps protect the healthy shoots beneath, and they will quickly recover once cut back to sound wood in spring. This is also the perfect time to plan new plantings. As gardens mature, increasing shade often means sun-loving perennials need relocating while woodland plants such as hostas, pulmonarias, hellebores, astilbes, foxgloves and Solomon's Seal can take their place. Planting generous drifts of the same variety creates far greater impact than scattering individual specimens throughout a border. Seed sowing will now be well underway. Sow hardy flowers and vegetable seeds into trays and place in a warm, bright position. Once seeds germinate, prick out into punnets and move seedlings to cooler conditions to harden them before planting.  Lawns start to come back this month and will respond to a dressing of lawn fertiliser to give them a boost. Fruit trees continue to arrive in garden centres, making August an excellent month for planting. Compact varieties like dwarf peaches and nectarines are ideal for smaller gardens, as are the slim-growing Ballerina apples. Apply a dressing of potash around fruiting trees and bushes to encourage strong flowering and fruit production. Watch peach trees carefully as buds begin to swell and apply a copper spray at bud burst to help prevent leaf curl.Gooseberries also benefit from winter pruning. Remove crossing branches, lift low growth clear of the ground and open the centre of the bush to make picking much easier and improve air circulation. Any low branches that have rooted into the soil can be lifted and potted to produce vigorous new plants. Grapevines should also be pruned before the sap rises by shortening side shoots back to two buds along the fruiting leaders. Strawberries thrive well in raised garden beds, containers, or hanging baskets, provided they receive plenty of sunlight. Vegetables: Protect tender vegetable seedlings with netting or frost cloth, as hungry birds can quickly strip fresh young growth as they start nesting soon. Broad beans, peas, garlic and shallots can all be planted into well-drained soil, while seed potatoes can be chitted in a cool, dry place ready for planting.   Cheers, Linda.

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Gardening in Waitaki July 22nd 2026

As we move further towards August, there is a definite feeling that spring is edging ever closer. Along the North Otago coast, the frosts will ease, temperatures have remained relatively mild, and that heavy rain has left the ground beautifully soft. Spring bulbs are pushing through quickly, with tulips already showing well and daffodils, jonquils and other bulbs racing towards bud. If we do get another sharp cold snap, it will simply hold the buds for a while, although any soft new growth may feel the effects. Gardens are already beginning to brighten with the flowers of early camellias, Rhododendron 'Christmas Cheer' and Prunus autumnalis. The perfume drifting through the garden from wintersweet, witch hazel, daphne, boronia and violets is a wonderful reminder that spring is not far away. August is one of the best months for planting trees and shrubs; the soil is moist, and roots can establish during spring. Trees take years to reach their full beauty, but every one planted today is an investment for future generations. The damp soil has reminded me how easily many shrubs layer themselves. Viburnums, choisyas, camellias and hydrangeas often drop low branches that naturally form roots where they touch the soil. These rooted sections can be left until well established before being cut from the parent plant and potted up. You can also encourage this by pegging a low branch into the soil after making a slight wound in the bark. Winter pruning continues. Remove old, tired wood from weigelas and spireas, lightly trim prickly berberis, cut buddleias back hard to encourage fresh silvery growth, and clip away all the old foliage from catmint. Wisterias also benefit from attention now. Remove the long whippy leaders that have grown since summer, leaving only the framework required to cover the support. Avoid pruning the short flowering spurs, as these carry next season's blooms. Larger reductions are best left until after flowering. Peony roses should have all last year's stems removed and destroyed, as diseases can overwinter on old growth. Be careful not to damage the bright pink shoots emerging from the crown. Dahlias can also have their old stems removed. If the stems are hollow, bend them over after cutting to prevent rain from collecting inside and rotting the tubers. Bearded irises are beginning to move now. Pull back any soil or mulch covering the rhizomes so they are partially exposed, then apply a light dressing of lime and potash to encourage flowering. Avoid nitrogen-rich fertilisers, which promote leaves rather than flowers. Rose pruning should be underway with buds beginning to swell, and the roots becoming active, making this the ideal time to apply rose fertiliser around the drip line. Water powdered fertilisers in well, while slow-release products will feed gradually each time it rains. Keep manure away from the crown. Lawns: The last heavy rain will have highlighted areas where lawns drain poorly. Resist the temptation to walk on saturated lawns, but make a note of any hollows that will need levelling later. Birds busily searching for worms are also helping aerate compacted soil. While the ground remains moist, a light topdressing of sieved compost will add valuable organic matter, particularly on heavy clay soils. Wait until mid spring before applying lawn fertiliser, allowing roots to establish first. Vegetable gardens will still be wet, so allow soils to drain before planting. Garlic and shallots can still be planted into well-prepared ground, while strawberries will establish well now in raised beds, containers or hanging planters. Good drainage remains the key to success. Fruit: Continue pruning gooseberries by removing crossing branches and lifting the lower growth clear of the ground. Any rooted branches can be potted up to produce healthy new plants. Newly planted fruit trees should also be cut back to around hip height. It seems drastic, but this first pruning encourages a well-shaped tree with fruit that will remain within easy reach for many years to come. And when blossom finally appears, let's hope for plenty of warm sunny days to bring the bees out to do the job they do so well. Cheers, Linda

Gardening in Waitaki July 15th 2026

July reminds us that winter still has plenty to say. After drenching rain, crisp frosts continue to greet us most mornings, and then a norwesterly wind brings warmth back. Those colder nights help keep early insect pests in check. Despite winter's grip, the garden is beginning to stir. Daphne is filling the air with perfume, while hellebores, primroses, polyanthus, violas and the first bulbs bring welcome colour to otherwise bare gardens. Primroses and polyanthus multiply readily and are easily divided. Lift established clumps, gently separate them into smaller plants, trim away some of the older foliage and keep them well watered until they establish. A light dressing of dried blood or fish fertiliser will encourage healthy growth and plenty of flowers. Mulching is one of the best jobs you can do this month. It helps conserve moisture, protects plant roots from fluctuating temperatures, suppresses winter weeds and feeds the soil as it breaks down. Apply it to damp soil wherever possible.Winter is an excellent time to improve the soil. Turn compost heaps to introduce oxygen and add moisture if they have become too dry. Fallen leaves need not be wasted either. Store them in large bags with a little water and allow them to rot into valuable leaf mould, one of the best soil conditioners you can make. Winter is also the ideal time to tackle pruning. Rose pruning for me is to happen next month when the rose wood is harder, but if you feel you need to get on with it, make every cut on a slight angle just above a strong outward-facing bud, using sharp secateurs to leave a clean cut that heals quickly. Bush roses can generally be reduced by about two-thirds, standards pruned back to around 25 centimetres above the head, while climbing roses need only the removal of old or weak growth, leaving five or six strong canes. Flower carpet and fairy roses can be reduced back with a hedge trimmer. If you have old, leggy rhododendrons that flower only at the tops of long woody branches, now is a good time to rejuvenate them. Although it may seem drastic, cutting them back to healthy growth lower down will encourage fresh shoots and eventually produce a fuller, bushier plant. You will sacrifice flowers for a season or two, but the long-term result is well worth the wait. Hydrangeas in milder areas can be pruned as they begin to show new leaf growth. Remove the old flower heads by cutting back to the second pair of healthy buds from the stem bottom, while leaving stems that did not flower, as these will often carry next season's blooms. If you prefer pink flowers, apply garden lime now. For blue blooms, use aluminium sulphate or a blue hydrangea fertiliser. Tender plants such as pelargoniums, hibiscus, bougainvillea and young marguerite daisies still need protection from heavy frosts. Frost cloth should be supported above the plants rather than resting directly on the foliage. Established marguerite daisies on the coast will often survive if the frosted outer growth is left in place to protect the new shoots beneath. Inland gardeners, where frosts are much harder, are usually better to overwinter cuttings under cover. Vegetable gardens remain productive on the coast, with silver beet, broccoli, cauliflower, kale, carrots, leeks and stored pumpkins all featuring in hearty winter meals. As beds become vacant, dig in compost and let frost, worms and winter weather continue improving the soil before spring planting. Garlic can still be planted successfully this month, either directly into well-drained soil or into containers in colder districts for planting out later. Plant individual cloves pointed end upwards, about five to seven centimetres deep and 10 to 15 centimetres apart. If you're planning an early potato crop, begin sprouting seed potatoes now in a cool, bright position. If you have room, consider growing comfrey. Its deep roots mine nutrients from well below the soil surface, making it an excellent compost activator, mulch and liquid fertiliser. The leaves are especially rich in potassium, making them valuable around tomatoes, potatoes, beans and fruiting plants. Fruit: Winter is also the best time to plant deciduous trees, fruit trees and berry bushes while they are dormant. Garden centres have their widest selection now, and planting before spring gives roots time to establish. Remember to keep the graft union above soil level and stake newly planted trees securely against our strong North Otago winds.Continue pruning apples and pears while dormant, leaving water shoots on apple trees until summer. and leave peaches until early spring when wounds heal more quickly, but for leaf curl controle a couple of sprays of copper oxychloride before bud burst will help. Tidy fruit bushes by removing old, unproductive growth, particularly from blackcurrants, which fruit best on younger wood. Cheers, Linda.