Gardening in Waitaki May 13th May 2026

The chill of late autumn is noticeable now in early mornings and nights here in North Otago, but there is still enough warmth in the ground for plants to continue growing steadily. There is still plenty to do in the garden, and these crisp sunny days make it a rewarding time to be outside preparing for the seasons ahead.Compost season is well underway, and my ready compost is disappearing quickly as it is shovelled generously over cleared garden beds in preparation for winter. Pea straw was used to follow in my past large garden, but where I am now, the wind would not allow it to stay put.  Some gardeners will still be waiting for the last of the leaves to fall before finishing the mulching. Autumn leaves are far too valuable to waste, and there are many ways to make use of them. Some are being added to compost heaps while others are being turned into leaf mould, which is wonderful for improving soil texture and adding humus back into the garden. To make leaf mould, shred leaves first with the lawn mower, as whole leaves break down far too slowly. Layer them into bins or large bags with a sprinkling of nitrogen-rich material, such as grass clippings or a handful of urea, between layers, and water lightly as you build. Left over winter, this will break down beautifully and be ready for spring use. My well-grown seedlings have been potted up before colder nights arrive. They have come directly from seed trays, frost cloth will soon cover them and will likely remain in place until spring. Winter colour for the garden: Calendulas, primulas, pansies, polianthus, ornamental kale, Leptospermum, azaleas, daphnes, Chimonanthus praecox (winter sweet)  and those special leucodendrons.Dahlias: Reminding you once again, cut back, dig, and divide for late spring planting. Label clumps by colour and store in cardboard boxes in a dry place. Fill gaps with winter annuals, such as wallflowers and poppies.  Ericas: Trim spent summer flowers to maintain compact growth. Avoid lime and fertiliser; they thrive in dry, sunny soil. Ground cover varieties are low-maintenance and will now be budding for winter colour. Bearded Iris and Freesia: Keep compost and mulch away from exposed rhizomes and bulbs to prevent baking in the sun.  Perennials: Divide overgrown clumps to fill gaps or pot up for later planting. Cover beds with compost to encourage root growth and insulate through winter.  Peony Roses: Plant or shift this month, taking care not to damage tuber shoots. Cuttings: Move trays to a light, warm spot for winter growth and water less frequently, at the start of the day.Pot Plants: Reduce watering and move away from cold glass as night temperatures drop.  Lawns are finally slowing down, and bare patches are best left now until spring sowing. Lime and gypsum can still be applied to help soften compacted clay soils and improve lawn condition over time. Grass grubs will be slowing down the eating of grass roots now, as larvae, they eat to fuel their transition into the brown night beetle. This process takes about 12 months. The most damage done to lawns is from February to May. Rake out patches of dead lawn ready for re-sowing now on the coast while the ground is still warm, or wait until spring. An earth-friendly way to eradicate grass grub is nematodes. Beneficial Cseek out and kill grubs and other soil-inhabiting insects. They come on a sponge (invisible to the naked eye) that you soak in water, put in a sprayer and spray your dirt or lawn. They will multiply over time and continue to kill grubs. A retail outlet for nematodes for sale is: https://www.bioforce.co.nz/products/nematop.html Vegetable garden: Plant snow peas, pak choi, kale, broccoli, cauliflower, and beetroot. Seeds: Sow baby spinach in kitchen window containers for winter greens. This is the last month to sow carrot seeds; use onion sets rather than seeds now for better results. Clear finished summer vegetables or dig in leafy crops. Add manure-enriched compost and lime to heavily cropped soil, and leave the soil exposed to winter frost. Fruit: Apples and late peaches will still be ripening on trees to enjoy. Leave winter fruit tree pruning for July through August, or before buds begin to swell. Not all fruiting plants require an annual prune, and some new dwarf cultivars of apples, peaches, apricots and nectarines have been bred to eliminate the need for annual pruning and maintenance. I will go further into this closer to the time. Cheers, Linda

Gardening in Waitaki May 6th 2026

With autumn more settled and fallen leaves gathering quickly, they may feel like a chore, but they are one of the most valuable resources in the autumn garden. Wet leaves from heavy dews, already beginning to break down, make excellent mulch; they enrich the soil naturally. While each tree sheds leaves to nourish its own roots, lawns should be kept clear, as heavy leaf cover blocks light and weakens grass. Instead, return them to the tree bases where they belong. As gardens transition into winter, layer compost generously as beds are cleared. Hold off on pea straw mulch until leaf fall is complete, and ensure soil is well watered before applying. I have been potting on seedlings and cuttings before growth slows. Newly potted plants will now require frost cloth protection overnight, removed during the day and replaced at dusk. Also, remove water trays from pots—soil will stay damp through winter, and excess water can lead to root rot or freezing. This is an ideal time to rejuvenate perennial beds. Lift and divide overgrown clumps, replanting only the youngest, healthiest growth from the outer edges. Many plants respond well to this, including asters, phlox, aubretia, hostas, grasses, and herbs such as sage and thyme. Rockery plants can also be divided now. Once replanted, apply a generous layer of compost to encourage root development and help insulate plants through winter. Deadhead dahlias, petunias, and geraniums to extend flowering until frost. Remove spent annuals and prepare beds for winter colour with primulas, polyanthus, pansies, and violas. Watch for self-sown seedlings like foxglove and lupin—these can be transplanted now to establish before winter. Hellebores (winter roses) should have old foliage removed to eradicate aphids that want to winter over and to showcase developing buds. In colder inland areas, leave some growth for frost protection, removing it later once the new growth has hardened. A light liquid feed can boost flowering if needed. Peonies are available for planting now. Choose roots with at least three eyes and plant shallowly, about 5–7cm deep, in a sunny, well-drained position. Once established, they can thrive undisturbed for decades. As I have mentioned before Lilies can now be lifted, divided, and replanted. Handle bulbs carefully, keeping fleshy scales intact and never allowing them to dry out. Cut old stems rather than pulling them away to prevent rot. Plant bulbs on a base of river sand and cover with compost enriched with blood and bone. May is the right time to plant tulip bulbs. Position bulbs at least 20cm deep in well-drained soil, ideally in a sunny or east-facing spot. Pre-chilling bulbs in the fridge for several weeks can improve performance, especially if soil warmth lingers. Lift lower branches on large trees to increase light on underplanting, trim new growth on wisterias, and if needing to trim hedges, do it now so the undergrowth can harden before the coldest months. Lawns: autumn sowing can still be done, with cooler conditions helping retain moisture for quick germination. vegetable garden: growth continues steadily after autumn rain. Harvest pumpkins and corn, allowing pumpkins to cure before storage. Continue planting winter crops such as cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, kale, spinach, beetroot, and broad beans. This is also the final opportunity to sow carrots and establish onion sets for best results. Herbs: rosemary, sage, thyme, and rocket, will establish well if planted now. Fruit remains abundant: Apples should be picked for storage before birds take their share. Feijoas are ripening, along with NZ cranberries (Ugni), figs, walnuts, and hazelnuts—plenty to harvest and enjoy. In the berry patch, continue planting strawberries in raised, well-composted beds. Prune raspberries after fruiting by cutting back spent canes, allowing new growth to develop for next season. Cheers, Linda

Gardening in Waitaki April 29th 2026

Autumn splendour is all around North Otago now, with gardens glowing in rich golds, reds and russets as leaves continue to fall thick and fast, and there is much to do as we bed the garden down for winter. This is prime compost-making time. Layer autumn leaves, grass clippings, soft garden waste, finished compost, and stable or poultry manure to build rich organic compost full of natural nutrients. Leaves can also be turned into valuable leaf mould, either heaped in bins or packed into bags to break down into humus, which improves soil. Piling leaves directly onto garden beds can create a rain shield and harbour unwanted pests over winter. It is better to spread gathered leaves over the lawn, shred them with the lawn mower, then use them as mulch around the garden along with lawn clippings. The more we put back into the soil, the more the garden benefits. The recent rain, with soil still warm, makes it a perfect time to sow spring-flowering seeds. Seedlings raised now and carried through winter are often stronger than bought spring punnets. Sweet peas, calendula, lupins, alyssum and cornflowers can be sown outdoors, while pansies, violas, primulas and snapdragons can be started under cover. Hardy annuals for winter colour can be fed now for a good start. Acid-loving plants such as rhododendrons, camellias and azaleas appreciate pine needles, rotted sawdust or coffee grounds, while dried blood gives winter performers such as primulas, pansies and cyclamen a welcome boost. Divide primulas and violas to fill gaps in borders, and on the coast, give evergreen hedges one final light tidy. The ground is also perfect right now for planting spring bulbs that will bring your garden back to life after a long, drab winter. Bulbs are a wonderful investment as they multiply annually. There are many bulbs on offer in garden centres right now. If you are lucky enough to have large clumps of bulbs, now is the time to divide them and plant them in another area of your garden or pass them on to others. Most bulbs do best in full sun (at least 6 hours a day of direct sun) and well-drained soil. Spots where water pools during the winter will cause the bulbs to rot. Generally, the hole should be two to three times deeper than the bulb is tall. So if you have a 3-inch-tall bulb, dig a hole 6 to 9 inches deep. Plant ranunculus and anemones now, after soaking the corms overnight, and top dress established lilies with compost and blood and bone. Continue deadheading dahlias until frost blackens them, then cut them down carefully leaving 2 to 4inch stem above the soil, they need only to be lifted if winters are harsh and ground really freezes or soil where planted remains wet. Mulching with straw protect tubas during winter. Roses are best left now to form hips and harden their wood, although in warm sheltered spots, a final deadhead may still bring late blooms. Disease on late roses is natural at this stage and often not worth battling. Hydrangeas are still offering glorious autumn colour, and this is an excellent time to take hardwood cuttings. A few cuttings taken now can become splendid shrubs in seasons to come. Lawns are slowing but can still benefit from lime to sweeten the soil over winter. Avoid walking on wet lawns to prevent compaction, and if grass grub is a problem this is the last chance to treat before winter. Vegetable garden, keep sowing broad beans, peas, spinach, silver beet, beetroot, cabbage, broccoli and turnips while the ground holds warmth. Rhubarb can be lifted and divided, and herbs cut back, dried and stored for winter use. Pumpkins should be well-ripened now; harvest when they sound hollow leaving the stem end intack and cure them in a dry, sheltered place. Fruit: Strawberries may still be fruiting, runners can be pegged down for replacements, and fruit trees in bags can be planted now to establish through winter. Hold off pruning fruit trees until true winter dormancy, apart from removing dead wood from stone fruit. Cheers Linda.

Gardening in Waitaki April 21st 2026

We’ve certainly had a sharp taste of winter temperatures this week, hardly inviting weather for long days in the garden. Still, autumn is putting on a magnificent

display, with colours deepening beautifully as the month progresses, more than making up for the chill in the air.Now is the time to begin bedding the garden down for winter. Cut back tired summer perennials and annuals that have become long and straggly, clearing space for a generous layer of compost around each plant, followed by perhaps pea straw mulch.  Soft green waste can go straight into the compost heap, while tougher, woody material is best shredded or discarded. The more organic matter you return to the soil, the more your garden will reward you in the seasons ahead. Hydrangeas are still putting on a splendid show—leave them be for now, but it’s an excellent time to take hardwood cuttings for future plants. Remember, patience is needed, as these take a few seasons to develop into substantial bushes. There is still time along the coast to sow seeds outdoors and grow them on to pricking-out size before growth slows. Seedlings potted up now and nurtured through winter will be far stronger than spring-bought alternatives. Outdoors, sow alyssum, aquilegia, calendula, cornflower, lupins, statice, stock, and sweet peas. Under cover, sow antirrhinums, dianthus, pansies, violas, poppies, scabious, sweet William, polyanthus, primrose, and primulas. Evergreen shrubs (excluding conifers) are best planted now or left until after winter, while deciduous trees and conifers cope better with colder conditions. Get hedges trimmed before frost arrives, as this will likely be the last cut until spring. Continue cutting back plants like large daisies and lavatera on the coast to encourage fresh flowering. Lift gladioli once the foliage dries off, dry the corms thoroughly, dust them with flowers of sulphur, and store in paper bags or old pantyhose, never plastic.  Leave peony roses undisturbed; simply cut back dead tops and dispose of them to avoid any carried-over disease. Spring is the time to divide if needed. Roses will benefit from a feed now, as garden soil is depleted of nutrients by autumn; unfed roses will weaken and lack the strength for lush flowering next year. Firstly, remove all dropped leaves under rose bushes, then apply aged stable manure, along with rose fertiliser for the best results. Lawns should begin to slow down. Apply lime now to improve soil condition by spring, and avoid walking on wet grass to prevent compaction. Watch for grass grub. If birds are pecking and patches are browning, treat promptly, as May is your last chance before grubs finish eating roots and burrow deep. vegetable garden, protect pumpkins from frost. Around Anzac Day is the traditional time to plant broad beans, if you haven’t yet. Sow spinach, snap peas, Brussels sprouts, and spring onions.  Grow veg seedlings on to a good size before planting, because many slugs will be active while the soil is wet. Protect seedlings from slugs with a coarse mulch layer that can deter slugs by making movement difficult. Slug Collars: Small collars made from plastic or metal placed around individual plants act as protective fences. Beer traps attract slugs to fermenting yeast: Bury shallow containers filled with beer so their rims are at soil level. Slugs crawl in and drown. Replace the beer every few days to avoid foul odours. Finish harvesting potatoes and store them in a cool, dry place. Fruit: Mature fruit can be harvested and ripened spread out in a warm, sunny spot befor storing. Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in Waitaki April 14th 2026

Autumn is putting on a magnificent display around Lake Aviemore and throughout the Waitaki Valley. There is a natural rhythm to this season, growth slowing, energy retreating, and the garden preparing to rest. By working alongside these changes, tidying, composting, planting, and protecting, we set the garden up for a strong and healthy return in spring. Now it’s time to focus on some serious garden tidying before winter sets in. There is plenty of cutting back to be done, along with light hedge trimming. Compost heaps will benefit from nitrogen-rich activators such as coffee grounds, hen manure or comfrey leaves to speed decomposition. Oak and magnolia leaves, which are slower to break down, can be burned and the ash added back into the compost. Time for seed saving, with many plants naturally dispersing seed. Collect and store in paper bags once fully matured. Perennials like daylilies can be divided now, and bearded iris should have rhizomes exposed to the sun to bake and reduce disease. Rose garden: Remove and dispose of all diseased foliage from both plants and the surrounding ground to prevent the carryover of black spot, rust, and mildew. A lime sulphur spray next month will assist with winter clean-up. Shrubs such as camellias, rhododendrons, and azaleas can be shifted now, but remember to reduce the top growth by about a third to compensate for root disturbance. Larger shrubs are best trenched now and moved in late winter. Potted shrubs will benefit from feeding, particularly with acid fertiliser for those that prefer it. While many of us are busy raking leaves, it’s worth remembering that nature’s intention is for leaf fall to nourish the soil and trees. Leaves make excellent compost when layered with green waste, manure, and finished compost. Add moisture as you build, then cover the heap with whatever you have on hand—old carpet, polythene, or similar—to retain heat and encourage breakdown. Avoid leaving heavy layers of leaves on garden beds, as they can shelter overwintering pests such as snails and slugs, particularly those beneath plants like hellebores, heuchera, and hostas. Thick leaves also act as a rain barrier on the soil. Rake leaves onto the lawn and run over them with your lawn mower, then they can be returned as garden mulch. Lawns begin to slow as conditions dry and cool. Raise mower blades to avoid stressing the grass and reduce traffic where possible. De-thatching can be done if needed, and autumn remains an excellent time to sow new lawns or repair thin patches while the soil still holds warmth. A light dressing of sifted compost worked into the surface will improve both heavy and sandy soils. Fruit, continue harvesting late apples, pears, and peaches, taking care to store only undamaged fruit. Feijoas are a seasonal highlight, continuing to ripen into winter and offering both flavour and nutritional benefits. Apply clean-up sprays to fruit trees showing signs of disease, and consider a dressing of lime and potash to support next season’s crops. Citrus will benefit from feeding and mulching, while strawberry beds should be tidied, with runners removed and a few strong ones potted up for renewal. Vegetable gardens are winding down, but there is still time to sow green crops to improve soil structure and fertility. Clear spent crops before they go to seed and dig them back into the soil as humus. Continue planting winter vegetables, and harvest pumpkins before frost, allowing them to finish ripening in a warm, dry place. In glasshouses, reduce watering as growth slows.

Plant up strawberry runners.

Gardening in Waitaki April 14th 2026

What an early introduction to winter wet received this week! Autumn is a time for reflection and planning. With cooler mornings and brilliant colour all around, April reminds us that although growth slows, the garden is far from sleeping; it is quietly preparing for the promise of spring. Once outside again, it will be back to the inevitable autumn task, leaves, leaves, and more leaves. While the workload can feel endless, the reward is a garden glowing in magnificent shades of gold, red, and orange. Truly, autumn is a second spring, when every leaf becomes a flower.

b>Most fallen leaves make excellent compost, although oak and walnut leaves take much longer to break down. I did compost some mixed with grass clippings, but I burned the excess in my trusty drum, returning the ash to compost heaps later. Keep layering compost bins with leaves, grass clippings, manure, and garden waste, watering between layers to encourage decomposition while warmth remains in the soil. Recent damp conditions have helped retain moisture in the ground, giving shrubs such as hydrangeas, camellias, rhododendrons, and azaleas an opportunity to harden wood before winter. Hydrangea blooms are now turning rich autumn tones, perfect for picking and drying by hanging upside down or leaving in a vase until the water evaporates. Leucadendron, protea, nandina, and nerines also provide excellent winter colour and long-lasting cut flowers. Nerines are now taking centre stage, sending up elegant flowers on tall stems and thriving in well-drained positions with little water during dormancy. Give winter flowering shrubs a dressing of compost as many are already forming buds. Only feed plants preparing to flower now; most others are slowing growth ahead of winter rest. On the coast, prune perennial wallflowers, mignonette, dentata lavender, and marguerite daisies to encourage fresh winter growth. Inland gardeners are better to take hardwood cuttings and overwintering them under protection, as frosts often damage established plants. Divide violas and clumping primulas now — one plant quickly becomes many and provides beautiful edging for spring displays. Trim spent flower heads from hebes to prevent legginess, Ranunculus corms are still available and well worth planting. Soak overnight before planting claws downward in groups for best effect. Lilies may be lifted only if overcrowded, keeping roots moist at all times, and replanted deeply, about three times the bulb height, except Madonna lilies, which prefer shallow planting and limy soil. Autumn remains an excellent time to plant evergreen shrubs and give hedges a final light trim. Small shrubs, conifers, camellias, azaleas, and rhododendrons transplant well now while soils are still warm. Peonies can also be moved once foliage yellows, planting crowns shallowly with buds just 5 cm below soil level. Lawns are responding well to cooler nights and renewed moisture. Repair grass grub damage by raking and resowing. Treat compacted areas with gypsum and fine compost while the soil is soft and moist. During the rain is a perfect time to spread. Vegetable Garden: Green manure crops are valuable in vacant beds, oats are ideal for autumn sowing, while blue lupins add nitrogen. Protect young veg seedlings from birds with raised netting. Broad beans can be planted now, adding a little potash beneath the seeds to help prevent rust. Leeks, carrots, spinach, snap peas, and spring onions can all be sown or planted. Remove shading from glasshouses and reduce watering as growth slows. Harvest pumpkins, always leaving the stalk attached to prevent rot. b>Fruit Garden: Apples, crabapples, quince, grapes, feijoa, and late peaches are ready for harvest and preservation. Pick surplus apples slightly unripe for storage, but leave some to ripen naturally on the tree. Gather walnuts promptly before pests find them, spreading them out in a dry, airy space so the green husks can dry and separate naturally. Feed citrus trees generously now with manure, seaweed, rock phosphate, dolomite, or citrus fertiliser, followed by mulch Cheers, Linda

Gardening in Waitaki April 1st 2026

Autumn in the Oamaru public Gardens:

Easter again soon and day light saving again, Autumn is truly settling in now, a season of tidying, feeding the soil, and preparing the garden quietly for the months ahead. After a slow seasonal start caused by welcome autumn rains, trees are finally beginning to show their autumn colour. Gardens will be gently shifting pace now as growth slows and plants prepare for the dormant months ahead. While my Easter egg hunters are fewer these days as they become teenagers, there will still be a couple eagerly awaiting Nana’s Easter eggs, a reminder that some traditions never fade. Normally, at this time of year, we avoid encouraging too much new growth, allowing plants to harden before winter. However, coastal gardens can still carry lovely seasonal colour. With warmth still in the soil and moisture levels good, compost heaps should now be working efficiently. Stable and poultry manures contain most of the essential plant nutrients — particularly nitrogen, phosphate and potash, in a natural organic form. Not all plants require the same balance, however. Fresh animal manure can cause overly lush growth in legumes such as peas, beans and lupins due to excess nitrogen. Allowing manure to break down fully in the compost heap before use provides a more balanced nutrient supply. The only growth promotion needed before winter would be when planting plants to take you through the winter. Dried blood is High in nitrogen and is an easy way to replenish tired soil before planting those cool-season plants. Some plants dislike phosphate fertilisers altogether. Leucadendrons, proteas, banksias and ericas and callunas prefer a simple organic leaf mulch rather than garden fertilisers. Primula and viola clumps can now be lifted and divided to create new borders or fill gaps at the front of garden beds. Rhododendrons, azaleas and camellias will benefit from feeding with an acid fertiliser specially formulated for them, encouraging strong bud development for spring flowering. Continue deadheading dahlias until frost collapses the plants. Once blackened by frost, cut stems back carefully, ensuring thick hollow stems are not left open where rain can enter and rot the tubers. Dahlias sitting in wet soil after heavy rain are prone to rot, so lift and store tubers in a dry place at season’s end if drainage is poor. A topping of pea straw provides useful winter protection for those left in the ground. Autumn roses have suffered with recent rain. Remove rotting blooms but resist heavy pruning, as roses now need to set seed and harden their wood before winter. In warm, sheltered sunny spots, one final deadheading may still encourage a late flush of flowers. Lawns remain actively growing and grass clippings collected in full catchers make excellent mulch around the garden. New lawns sown now should germinate well while soil temperatures remain mild. Cover newly seeded or patched areas with netting or frost cloth to prevent birds from disturbing seed. vegetables: Spinach and snap peas can be sown now for cool-season harvests. Harvest pumpkins promptly and always leave the stalk attached to prevent rot during storage. Harvest pumpkins promptly and always leave the stalk attached to prevent rot during storage .Divide rhubarb crowns and replant into soil enriched with generous amounts of compost. fruit: Fruit continues to fall heavily from trees. Apples and quince and late peaches are plentiful, and after the recent rain it is an ideal time to repay fruit trees with applications of lime, manure, rock phosphate, liquid seaweed or vermi liquid around the root zone. Prune tamarillo trees hard once the last fruit has been picked. Staggered pruning can help stagger next season’s crop. Prepare strawberry beds by building soil levels with compost and mulch, removing old leaves and runners, and potting up only strong runners growing close to the mother plant to establish new fruiting plants or fill gaps. Cheers, Linda