October is almost here, and the weather remains changeable. October is a busy month, but it is also one of the most rewarding times in the garden. With the soil warming, plants growing rapidly, and everything beginning to flower, there is plenty to enjoy; however, this is also the month when chasing weeds can become a full-time job, so hoeing and hand-pulling while weeds are small is still the best option in planted areas. Couch grass and convolvulus need particular attention; remove every runner and root you can find, as even small pieces left behind will quickly grow and spread. Once the obvious weeds are cleared, cover the soil with a good layer of weed-free compost or mulch to block light and discourage new weed seeds from germinating. Then it is time to plant, plant, plant! Annuals and perennials will grow rapidly now and soon help to leave no room for weeds. If plants, roses and shrubs have not yet been fed, now is the time. Compost enriched with blood and bone and a little sulphate of potash will provide food and encourage flowering and fruiting. Water new plantings regularly, preferably in the morning, allowing the foliage and soil surface to dry before nightfall. Roses benefit from well-rotted stable manure and compost spread around the drip line rather than dug into the soil, as digging can damage roots. Keep manure away from the stems and spread it around the outer feeding roots. If greenfly appear on young rose growth, they can often be removed with your fingers or a strong jet of water. Once leaves have hardened, birds will also help. Hostas are beginning to unfurl their beautiful leaves, so take care not to damage the pointed tips while working around them. Keep them well watered and give a dressing of compost and blood and bone. Slugs will soon be looking for them too; copper tape around containers or suitable sharp barriers can help keep slugs away. Lilies and peonies are pushing upwards now. Put stakes or supports in place before they become too tall, as it is much easier to support them early. They also appreciate consistent moisture. Camellias that have finished flowering can now be trimmed and shaped. If a bush has become dense, remove some branches from the centre to allow more light and air through, encouraging future bud formation. Keep an eye on blossom trees too; any growth appearing from below the graft should be removed. Lawns are growing quickly now that the soil is warming. New grass seed should be sown thickly and kept moist until established. Do not fertilise newly germinated grass, as fertiliser can be too strong. Established lawns can be fed, preferably when rain is expected, rather than during dry sunny weather when fertiliser may scorch the grass. Vegetable Garden: If you have a vacant patch of ground, why not turn it into a vegetable garden? Clear, expose, and loosen the soil, add compost, and make simple edges using whatever is available. Keep weeds down around the outside and start planting what seedlings are available, but Corn, pumpkin, squash and zucchini need to be sown under cover for protection from cold nights. Tomato plants are available, so get greenhouses ready to hold the summer crop and plant when nights become warmer. Carrots can also be sown now; if carrot fly has been a problem, covering carrot rows with insect netting after germination can help protect the crop. Avoid disturbing the plants unnecessarily, as the scent released when carrots are thinned can attract carrot fly.  Herbs. A sunny spot enriched with compost or well-rotted manure makes a wonderful herb garden, and mixed herb pots planted now will grow quickly and make thoughtful Christmas gifts. Fruit trees, raspberries and gooseberries are flowering, so sunshine and plenty of pollinating insects are especially welcome. Blueberries need acidic soil and consistent moisture; a mulch of pine needles can help maintain suitable conditions for both blueberries and strawberries. News from our wonderful Community Gardens: Their next Community Classroom series runs throughout October. Visit our website  https://www.waitakicommunitygardens.nz/   or look out for flyers. Cheers,Linda.

Gardening in Waitaki 15th September 2026

Spring is certainly keeping us guessing, with warm days followed by cold winds. I still have the frost cloth close at hand, but there is plenty to enjoy as the garden bursts into life. Keep an eye on seedlings now. Those that have germinated under protection will need thinning and regular watering. Transplant shallow-rooted seedlings such as pansies and lobelia into trays, while deeper-rooted plants such as lupins and poppies are better given individual pots. Remember to harden off bought bedding plants before planting them outside. It is also time to prepare hanging baskets and containers. Pansies, lobelia, small petunias, plus many of the other shallow-rooted choices available now. Use slow-release fertiliser and water crystals, and never allow containers to dry out completely. Tuberous begonias can now come out of storage. You can divide large tubers, provided each piece has a healthy shoot. Begonias appreciate seaweed or fish-based fertiliser and are best lifted before winter, when soil remains wet. Put stakes in now for delphiniums, peonies, asters and tall phlox, before they get too tall. When in my past large garden, I would be sowing wildflower seeds thickly into containers for later use as colourful gap-fillers in perennial borders. By keeping them deadheaded, they would flower for months. This is a great time for planting and colour combinations. I recently divided a large clump of lamb’s ear, using the individual plants around borders and amongst annuals. Its silver foliage makes a lovely contrast with stronger colours and adds interesting texture. Early blossom is a reminder that now is the perfect time to choose trees for a new garden. Look beyond the flowers and consider eventual height, spread, roots and where leaves and blossom will fall. Large spreading trees need plenty of room, particularly near houses, paths and concrete. Lavenders are making new growth. A little lime and liquid or slow-release fertiliser will help. Trim scruffy plants, but if they have become very woody with weak growth only at the top, it is time to replace them. Lawns damaged by winter or grass grub can have patches worked and resown now to thicken before summer. Sow seed thickly in spring to help beat annual weeds, keep mower blades raised and feed when rain arrives. Vegetable garden: keep planting through September. Lettuce planted every two weeks will provide a succession of crops, while new potatoes planted now will be ready to enjoy for Christmas. Keep broad beans well watered and mound soil around their shallow roots to prevent them drying out. Fruit: I am seeing fruit bush and grape varieties on sale locally, and I feel it is important to choose varieties compatible with North Otago conditions. Blueberry varieties proven for growing here are.... 1. Reka, very productive and vigorous. Early fruiting, generally around late November to late December 2. Nui for exceptionally large berries. If you want two, plant Reka + Nui; they pollinate well together. 3. Bluecrop is also an excellent traditional choice and is vigorous and productive. Blueberries are shallow-rooted and really dislike drying out. They also need acid soil, around pH 4.5–5.5 Plant in a really good organic planting mix, pine-bark/sawdust mulch and deep, regular watering, rather than letting them dry out between waterings. Grape varieties for North Otago outdoor planting: 1. Iona – very hardy, coastal-suitable, and ripens in March–April. 2. Albany Surprise – a dependable outdoor grape with large black, sweet fruit.3. Niagara or Schuyler – good choices for coastal conditions. Plant grapes in the warmest, sunniest, most sheltered position possible, preferably against a north-facing wall. Raspberry canes that do well in North Otago: 1. Aspiring: large, excellent flavour, and crops twice. 2. Heritage: Very reliable, long autumn crop and easy pruning. Autumn Bliss: large fruit and earlier autumn crop. 4. Willamette: Excellent traditional summer raspberry. Blackcurrants are starting to make flowers but can still be thinned to let light in, followed by a compost mulch. Cheers, Linda.

gardening in Waitaki September 10th 2026

A chilly start to the new growing season, but North Otago is looking so pretty, with masses of blossoms and daffodils everywhere. There is plenty to do now, so here are some jobs worth putting at the top of the list. Ponds: Clean out leaves and old growth from pond plants and, if possible, allow the pond to overflow to freshen the water. Water lilies, oxygen weed and water iris will soon be making new growth. Be careful what you plant in a domestic pond. I once had to remove yellow bog iris from my large pond because its mat-forming roots had spread so aggressively they eventually covered half the pond. Yellow bog iris is much better suited to the edges of streams, where its fibrous roots help hold banks together. Bullrushes are another plant best avoided in a small pond as they spread rapidly. While water lilies are still coming into leaf, sections can be divided and repotted. Use a mesh aquatic pot, or make holes in the sides of an ordinary plastic pot. Line it with sacking or woven fabric, fill it about three-quarters with garden soil and add a little slow-release fertiliser in the centre. Plant the lily section, cover the surface with stones or gravel and lower it carefully to the bottom of the pond. Roses: Roses are a priority now. Look for winter dieback and cut affected branches back to healthy new growth. Also check for shoots coming from below the graft. These usually have different leaves and are much more vigorous than the grafted rose. Remove them completely. Once new foliage has hardened, begin your regular rose protection programme if required. Good feeding, adequate moisture and good air circulation are the best starting points for healthy roses. Avoid leaving rose foliage wet overnight, as this encourages fungal problems. Perennials and spring plants: New growth is appearing everywhere. Keep feeding actively growing plants with a liquid fertiliser, although bulbs do not need feeding as they have stored food in the bulbs. Plant the many beautiful spring seedlings now on offer, but remember to harden them off first. Put them outside in a sheltered, lightly shaded position for two or three days before planting. Avoid planting during the heat of the day. Perennials such as phlox, hostas and peonies are pushing through their winter mulch. Divide overcrowded hostas now and stake tall-growing plants like delphiniums before they become too tall. Bearded irises also appreciate attention now; keep their rhizomes partly exposed and avoid high-nitrogen fertiliser. Cyclamen that flowered indoors over winter can now be planted outside in a cool, shady position. With some summer care, they can be brought back inside before winter and will continue flowering for many years. Lawns: Grass is well on the move again and may look uneven and tufty until the first few mowings. Keep mower blades reasonably high while the lawn recovers from winter. Have lawn fertiliser ready for the next good rain, as moisture helps wash it into the soil. If you are repairing bare patches, rough up compacted soil, add a little fine soil and sow grass seed generously. Cover small areas with shade cloth or frost cloth to keep birds away while the seed germinates. For eradicating moss, sulphate of iron is effective. Apply according to the instructions, allow the moss to turn black and then rake it out. If your soil sits over a heavy clay pan, gypsum can help improve the structure and drainage without altering soil pH. Vegetables: Days are lengthening, and soil is beginning to warm, so prepare fine soil for direct sowing and get peas and hardy herbs planted. Start pumpkin, butternut, squash and corn under protection now. Plant early crop potatoes; when shoots emerge, gradually mound soil or compost around them to encourage more productive growth. Keep potatoes well watered during dry spells. Young veg seedlings may still need frost protection at night, particularly in colder parts of North Otago. Salad seedlings can be planted in a warm spot. As it warms, white butterflies and other pests will be looking for new seedlings to deposit their young on, so an early spray of diluted fish emulsion on vegetables, flowering plants and roses can discourage pests with its smell of protein while providing a useful feed. Reapply after rain. Fruit: September is an excellent time to plant deciduous fruit trees while they are just coming out of dormancy. Choose a sunny, sheltered position wherever possible and stake newly planted trees until their roots are well established. Apricots and peaches will soon be in blossom, eagerly waiting for bees and some warm weather. If leaf curl has affected young stone fruit leaves, remove and destroy badly affected leaves so that fresh new growth can replace them. It is too late to spray with copper once blossom buds have burst. Raspberry canes need attention. With summer-fruiting raspberries, older brown canes that have already fruited should have been removed, leaving around six strong green canes per plant. Remove weak and sideways-growing canes and tie the remaining canes neatly into their supports. Mulch well to retain moisture through summer. Autumn fruiting varieties are much easier to prune as they always fruit on the current season's growth. They should have been cut back hard in winter, and all dead and diseased wood removed. Strawberries need plenty of sunshine, regular moisture and good feeding. A fertiliser with extra potassium will encourage flowering and fruiting. Mulching with straw or pine needles helps keep weeds down and fruit clean. Rhubarb is waking up now and will appreciate a generous dressing of well-rotted, manure-enriched compost. This is also a good time to plant other berry bushes while they have the whole growing season ahead to settle in. Raspberry cane pruning.

Spring puning raspberry canes. Cheers, Linda

Gardening in Waitaki 1st September 2026

“Tra La” – spring at last, and what a welcome it is. After winter, every day seems to bring something new into the garden. Sweet peas, ranunculus, anemones and tulips are pushing through. The bees will soon be busy on sunny days, although a cold snap or frost can still remind us that spring has only just begun. There is plenty to do, but after winter, getting back into the garden feels like a privilege. Recent rain softened the ground beautifully, and those strong winds made it necessary to get hoses out. This an ideal time for planting and weeding; weeds are also enjoying the warmer conditions, so hoe or hand-pull them while they are small and before they flower and set seed. While working around the garden, take stock of jobs needing attention. Stake delphiniums before they become too tall, remove excess mulch from iris rhizomes and peony crowns, and cut back old catmint if it has not already been done. Spring feeding: Plants, shrubs and trees will respond to spring feeding. Liquid-feed perennials and bedding plants, while trees and shrubs will benefit from a good general fertiliser. Camellias, azaleas and rhododendrons can show yellowing after winter as shallow-rooted plants use available nitrogen, so give them the acid fertiliser formulated for these plants. Roses are pushing strongly now; if yours have not yet been pruned, do it promptly as the buds are swelling. Seeds and seedlings: Winter-sown pansies and dianthus can be thinned and potted into deeper trays, while lupins, hellebores and Oriental poppies benefit from individual small root pots so they develop a good root ball before planting out. Sow late-spring and summer flowers into seed trays, keeping them raised off the cold ground and protected with glass or clear plastic. A mist spray in the morning is preferable when watering small seedlings. It is also time to think about baskets and pots, using shallow-rooted plants such as pansies, primulas, and dwarf sweet peas until the weather warms enough for petunias, lobelia and begonias.Ornamental grasses can be given their spring haircut, cutting away old seed heads and clearing the dead thatch from around the base. The material can be reused as mulch, compost cover or bedding for animals. Lawns: Give lawns an early spring feed just before, or during, rainfall, or hose if dry so the nutrients are washed in. Keep the mower blades higher as grass comes out of dormancy. If moss is a problem, sulphate of iron can be watered over affected areas; once the moss turns black, rake it out. But remember that moss is usually a symptom of an underlying problem such as waterlogging, shade, compaction or mowing too closely. Vegetables: There is plenty to do in the vegetable garden. On the coast, sow lettuce, spring onions, carrots and peas, and plant leafy vegetables at two-week intervals for a continuous supply. Protect young plants from frost and birds. Frost cloth is perfect as plants still get enough light while hiding seedlings from birds. Prepare ground for potatoes and get seed potatoes planted when the soil is suitable. Do not rush parsnips, beans, corn, pumpkins or squash into cold ground – they need much warmer soil to germinate. Start pumpkin, butternut, squash and corn under protection now to give them the long growing season they need. Fruit: Peach and nectarine buds are at bud burst, so this is the last opportunity to apply copper spray for leaf curl – once the trees are in blossom it is too late. Prune peaches and nectarines now if necessary, remembering that they fruit on wood produced last summer. Gooseberries can also be thinned before the leaves arrive, removing crowded branches and raising the lower “skirt” to make picking easier. Strawberries are beginning to move towards budding and will appreciate a mulch of compost or old animal manure, covered with straw or pine needles. Prune blueberries now  . Remove dead, diseased, weak, crossing, and low-growing branches, keeping the bush open and vase-shaped for good light and airflow. Every 3–4 years, remove one or two oldest canes at ground level to encourage new growth. Overgrown bushes can be cut back hard, but this may sacrifice a season’s crop. Feed with an acid-loving fertiliser, mulch well and water during dry periods. Avoid excess nitrogen, which encourages leaves rather than fruit. Prune Prunus trees on a fine day, removing weak or crossing branches before they become large.  Early spring is also a time to think beyond our own gardens. Native green corridors through Waitaki can soften urban streets, provide habitat and encourage birds and wildlife. The cycle track between Oamaru and Weston and the planting around Cape Wanbrow show what can be achieved when people plant for biodiversity as well as beauty.Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in Waitaki August 21 2026

Spring has arrived in the garden, although recent frosts remind us that winter has not quite released its grip; Blossoms are appearing everywhere, and magnolias are throwing off their woolly coverings and opening their spectacular flowers, while winter sweet and violets fill the garden with fragrance. Keep frost cloth handy for seedlings and tender plants for a little longer. This is a busy time in the garden, with plants waking rapidly and putting their energy into new growth. Feeding is one of the most important jobs now. Roses in particular are moving quickly and should be fed as soon as possible. A good feed now will encourage strong, healthy growth and can reduce the need for spraying later. Most shrubs and perennials will appreciate feeding too, followed by a good soak if the soil is dry. With spring growth beginning, this is the time to regain control of shrubs that have become too large. Soft shrubs encroaching on paths and driveways can be trimmed back now and will soon produce fresh growth. If height is the problem, removing the tall central leader to where the side branches begin can reduce height considerably without destroying the shrub's shape. Remember that spring-flowering shrubs and climbers may already be carrying flower buds, so prune carefully. Delay pruning jasmines until the risk of frost has passed. Roses can still be pruned while they are dormant or just beginning to move, depending on your location and the weather. Feed them now and prepare for pruning once the timing is right. If planting a new rose where a rose has previously grown, replace the old soil with fresh soil from elsewhere in the garden to reduce the chance of transferring rose disease. Magnolias are taking centre stage. They prefer slightly acidic soils and grow beautifully alongside camellias, rhododendrons and azaleas. Choose carefully for the space available: Lavender can be trimmed as new growth appears. Old, woody plants can be cut back hard enough to encourage fresh shoots, although very old bushes may be better replaced. Give new lavender a light trim, some compost and a little lime. Late winter and early spring are also a good time to think carefully about trees for the future. In smaller town gardens, large-growing trees can eventually create considerable work through leaf fall, pruning, shade and invasive roots. Before buying, always read the mature height and width on the label. Smaller trees such as flowering dogwoods, Cercis canadensis ‘Forest Pansy’, crab apples and Robinia ‘Lace Lady’ can provide beauty without the scale of an oak, ash, elm or large maple. For those wanting larger trees in a smaller garden, controlled root-growing systems such as Evergrow planter bags can provide another option, allowing a tree to develop naturally while restricting its ultimate size. There is still time to divide hostas before leaves emerge. Lift established clumps and divide them with a sharp spade, ensuring each piece has good roots and shoots. Dahlias can also be planted now in sunny, well-drained positions; tubers will remain dormant until the soil warms. Sowing seeds under cover. Seedlings sown earlier should now be appearing and can be given a weekly liquid feed. I sow seeds in trays containing compost and soil, with a thin layer of seed-raising mix on top. Cover trays with glass or plastic, but allow air to circulate to prevent dampness and disease. Keep frost cloth handy for young plants. Vegetable gardens are waking too. Prepare beds by digging in weed-free compost and allowing the soil to settle before planting. Shallots, lettuce, beetroot and broad beans can still be planted, with frost protection provided for young plants. Early seed potatoes can be planted, but protect emerging foliage from late frosts. Unused vegetable areas will benefit from a green crop such as mustard, lupins, barley or wheat. Dig it into the soil while it is still lush and green, before the stems become tough and slow to break down. This adds valuable organic matter and helps tired soil. Lawns are beginning to green up after winter. If moss is a problem, it's often a sign of shade, compaction or acidic soil. Sulphate of iron can be used to control moss; once it has blackened, rake it out, aerate the lawn and apply a suitable feed. Adding compost to heavy clay soil lawns will improve the condition and help prepare the lawn for the drier months ahead. Fruit trees and berry bushes will benefit from attention now. Apply a potash-rich fertiliser to encourage flowering and fruiting. Deciduous fruit trees and berry canes should be planted without delay. Thin raspberries by removing old canes that have already fruited, along with weak and excess shoots. Citrus, particularly lemons, appreciate citrus fertiliser and a deep watering. Keep grass and weeds away from trunks and mulch well. Cheers, Linda. Securing Raspberry canes.

Gardening in Waitaki August 12th 2026

As we move further into August, there is a definite feeling that spring is edging ever closer. Along the North Otago coast, frosts will ease as temperatures become milder. Heavy rain has left the ground beautifully soft for spring bulbs to push through quickly, tulips are already showing well, and daffodils, jonquils and other bulbs are racing towards bud. If we do get another sharp cold snap, it will simply hold the buds for a while, although any soft new growth may feel the effects. Gardens are already beginning to brighten with the flowers of early camellias, Rhododendron 'Christmas Cheer' and Prunus autumnalis. Perfume will be drifting through gardens from winter sweet, witch hazel, daphne, boronia, and violets, which is a wonderful reminder that spring is not far away. August is one of the best months for planting trees and shrubs; the soil is moist for roots to establish during spring. Trees take years to reach their full beauty, but every one planted today is an investment for future generations. The damp soil has reminded me how easily many shrubs layer themselves. Viburnums, choisyas, camellias and hydrangeas often drop low branches that naturally form roots where they touch the soil. These rooted sections can be left until well established before being cut from the parent plant and potted up. You can also encourage this by pegging a low branch into the soil after making a slight wound in the bark. Winter pruning continues. Remove old, tired wood from weigelas and spireas, lightly trim prickly berberis, cut buddleias back hard to encourage fresh silvery leaf growth, and clip away all the old foliage from catmint. Wisterias also benefit from attention now. Remove the long whippy leaders that have grown since summer, leaving only the framework required to cover the support. Avoid pruning the short flowering spurs, as these carry this season's blooms. Larger reductions are best left until after flowering. Peony roses should have all last year's stems removed and destroyed, as diseases can overwinter on old growth. Be careful not to damage the bright pink shoots emerging from the crown. Dahlias can also have their old stems removed. If the stems are hollow, bend them over after cutting to prevent rain from collecting inside and rotting tubers. Bearded irises are beginning to move now. Pull back any soil or mulch covering the rhizomes so they are partially exposed, then apply a light dressing of lime and potash to encourage flowering. Avoid nitrogen-rich fertilisers, which promote leaves rather than flowers. Rose pruning should be underway with buds beginning to swell, and the roots becoming active, making this the ideal time to apply rose fertiliser or aged manure around the drip line. Water powdered fertilisers in well, while slow-release products will feed gradually each time it rains. Lawns: The last heavy rain will have highlighted areas where lawns drain poorly. Resist the temptation to walk on saturated lawns, but make a note of any hollows that will need levelling later. Birds busily searching for worms are also helping aerate compacted soil. While the ground remains moist, a light topdressing of compost will add valuable organic matter, particularly on heavy clay soils. Vegetable gardens: Allow wet soils to drain before planting. Garlic and shallots can still be planted into well-prepared ground, while strawberries will establish well now in raised beds, containers or hanging planters. Good drainage remains the key to success. Fruit: Continue pruning gooseberries by removing crossing branches and lifting the lower growth clear of the ground. Any rooted branches can be potted up to produce healthy new plants. Newly planted fruit trees should also be cut back . It seems drastic, but this first pruning encourages a well-shaped tree with fruit that will remain within easy reach for many years to come. And when blossom finally appears, let's hope for plenty of warm sunny days to bring the bees out to do the job they do so well. Cheers, Linda

Gardening in Waitaki August 11th 2026

Wow, what a polar blast we've had this week! North Otago escaped relatively lightly compared with many other parts of Otago. August is always an unpredictable month for gardeners. Just when the soil begins to warm, and spring seems within reach, winter often has one last icy reminder. Even so, each day brings fresh signs of the changing season, with snowdrops, jonquils, early blossom and magnolias bravely standing up to the cold. This is one of the best times to visit garden centres if you are thinking of planting camellias or rhododendrons. Most are now flowering, making it much easier to choose the colours that will complement your garden. Both perform best in semi-shade or areas protected from the hot afternoon sun. I know the cold does not encourage seed sowing, but if sown now in good light, up off the cold ground and protected under glass, you will get them to germinate and grow on for an early start for spring flowering. Seed trays I sowed three weeks ago under glass are showing the first stages of growth. To make expensive seed-raising mix go further, I fill trays with compost and sifted soil, then add a thin layer of seed-raising mix on top.  Roses will benefit from feeding if you haven't already done so because roots are moving and buds are swelling. Aged manure is perfect, slow-release fertilisers are also a good food choice, providing nutrients over many months and help to keep plants healthy and vigorous. This is the time to plant the roses now on offer in Garden centers. Peonies and gladioli can also be planted now, along with Lilies, but those being lifted should be replanted immediately, as their bulbs never truly become dormant and dislike drying out.  Lavenders beginning to show fresh growth can be trimmed now. Older woody bushes can be cut back by about half to encourage fresh shoots lower down, while younger plants need only a light clip. A sprinkle of lime around the base will help maintain the sweet soil lavenders enjoy. If an old lavender has struggled for several seasons, replacing it may be the better option. Hydrangeas are also showing new shoots near the base, signalling that pruning can begin. Remove the stems that flowered last summer back to the second healthy bud from the bottom, leaving the remaining younger stems to produce next season's blooms. Remember, pink hydrangeas prefer alkaline soils while blue varieties require acidic conditions. If your blue hydrangea insists on turning pink, growing it in a large container filled with acidic potting mix is often the most reliable solution. Many climbers are already carrying flower buds, so trim carefully. Hardenbergia (Happy Wanderer) can be cut back after flowering, while jasmine that has been touched by frost is best left until warmer weather confirms which stems have survived. There is still time to divide established hostas before they come into full growth. Lift mature clumps, divide them into several healthy pieces with a sharp spade, and replant immediately. Hostas also make excellent container plants, but remember that emerging leaves are irresistible to slugs, so protect them early with prickly twiggy prunings. Comfrey is one of the garden's most valuable plants. Its deep roots draw nutrients from well below the soil surface and store them in the leaves. Pack chopped leaves into a lidded container and leave them to break down into a dark liquid. Diluted with water, it becomes a nutrient-rich feed high in potassium, ideal for flowering plants, tomatoes and other fruiting crops. Plant comfrey where it has room to spread, as it can become quite vigorous.  Lawns often show patches of moss at this time of year. While products containing sulphate of iron will blacken and kill moss, lasting success depends on correcting the cause. Poor drainage, soil compaction, excessive shade, acidic soil, mowing too closely, or poor fertility can all encourage moss to thrive. Healthy, well-fed lawns that are aerated and mown correctly rarely have serious moss problems. Plan your first spring lawn feed just before steady rain. Vegetable gardens deserve attention now. Dig compost into empty beds and allow the soil to settle before planting. If you're not using a bed immediately, sow a green crop such as mustard, oats, lupins, barley or wheat to improve soil structure and organic matter. Dig these crops in while still soft and leafy, before they become coarse and stemmy. Existing asparagus beds should be carefully cultivated without damaging the crowns, while new beds benefit from deep cultivation and plenty of compost. Sprouted potatoes can be planted now for an early crop, and winter cauliflower can be protected from frost by tying the outer leaves over the developing heads. Fruit trees and berry bushes are preparing for another busy season. A dressing of potash will encourage better flowering and fruiting, while a thorough watering followed by a generous mulch will help conserve moisture as growth accelerates. Cheers, Linda.