Gardening in Waitaki July 15th 2026

July reminds us that winter still has plenty to say. After drenching rain, crisp frosts continue to greet us most mornings, and then a norwesterly wind brings warmth back. Those colder nights help keep early insect pests in check. Despite winter's grip, the garden is beginning to stir. Daphne is filling the air with perfume, while hellebores, primroses, polyanthus, violas and the first bulbs bring welcome colour to otherwise bare gardens. Primroses and polyanthus multiply readily and are easily divided. Lift established clumps, gently separate them into smaller plants, trim away some of the older foliage and keep them well watered until they establish. A light dressing of dried blood or fish fertiliser will encourage healthy growth and plenty of flowers. Mulching is one of the best jobs you can do this month. It helps conserve moisture, protects plant roots from fluctuating temperatures, suppresses winter weeds and feeds the soil as it breaks down. Apply it to damp soil wherever possible.Winter is an excellent time to improve the soil. Turn compost heaps to introduce oxygen and add moisture if they have become too dry. Fallen leaves need not be wasted either. Store them in large bags with a little water and allow them to rot into valuable leaf mould, one of the best soil conditioners you can make. Winter is also the ideal time to tackle pruning. Rose pruning for me is to happen next month when the rose wood is harder, but if you feel you need to get on with it, make every cut on a slight angle just above a strong outward-facing bud, using sharp secateurs to leave a clean cut that heals quickly. Bush roses can generally be reduced by about two-thirds, standards pruned back to around 25 centimetres above the head, while climbing roses need only the removal of old or weak growth, leaving five or six strong canes. Flower carpet and fairy roses can be reduced back with a hedge trimmer. If you have old, leggy rhododendrons that flower only at the tops of long woody branches, now is a good time to rejuvenate them. Although it may seem drastic, cutting them back to healthy growth lower down will encourage fresh shoots and eventually produce a fuller, bushier plant. You will sacrifice flowers for a season or two, but the long-term result is well worth the wait. Hydrangeas in milder areas can be pruned as they begin to show new leaf growth. Remove the old flower heads by cutting back to the second pair of healthy buds from the stem bottom, while leaving stems that did not flower, as these will often carry next season's blooms. If you prefer pink flowers, apply garden lime now. For blue blooms, use aluminium sulphate or a blue hydrangea fertiliser. Tender plants such as pelargoniums, hibiscus, bougainvillea and young marguerite daisies still need protection from heavy frosts. Frost cloth should be supported above the plants rather than resting directly on the foliage. Established marguerite daisies on the coast will often survive if the frosted outer growth is left in place to protect the new shoots beneath. Inland gardeners, where frosts are much harder, are usually better to overwinter cuttings under cover. Vegetable gardens remain productive on the coast, with silver beet, broccoli, cauliflower, kale, carrots, leeks and stored pumpkins all featuring in hearty winter meals. As beds become vacant, dig in compost and let frost, worms and winter weather continue improving the soil before spring planting. Garlic can still be planted successfully this month, either directly into well-drained soil or into containers in colder districts for planting out later. Plant individual cloves pointed end upwards, about five to seven centimetres deep and 10 to 15 centimetres apart. If you're planning an early potato crop, begin sprouting seed potatoes now in a cool, bright position. If you have room, consider growing comfrey. Its deep roots mine nutrients from well below the soil surface, making it an excellent compost activator, mulch and liquid fertiliser. The leaves are especially rich in potassium, making them valuable around tomatoes, potatoes, beans and fruiting plants. Fruit: Winter is also the best time to plant deciduous trees, fruit trees and berry bushes while they are dormant. Garden centres have their widest selection now, and planting before spring gives roots time to establish. Remember to keep the graft union above soil level and stake newly planted trees securely against our strong North Otago winds.Continue pruning apples and pears while dormant, leaving water shoots on apple trees until summer. and leave peaches until early spring when wounds heal more quickly, but for leaf curl controle a couple of sprays of copper oxychloride before bud burst will help. Tidy fruit bushes by removing old, unproductive growth, particularly from blackcurrants, which fruit best on younger wood. Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in Waitaki 8th July 2026

Well, where did all that rain come from? It arrived with such force, leaving a trail of destruction across our district. My thoughts are with everyone who was affected, and I sincerely hope those impacted are now receiving the support they need and are well on the way to getting life back to normal. Winter has well and truly settled in across North Otago. Rain and frost remind us that the coldest part of the year is here, and sodden ground means gardens and lawns will remain out of bounds until we get some drying winds. Remove saucers from under pots, as standing water can freeze, damaging plant roots and rotting bulbs, so good drainage is essential. Although gardens appear quiet, so much is happening beneath the surface. Roots continue to grow, buds slowly develop, compost quietly matures, and every frosty morning helps prepare plants for the burst of growth that spring will soon bring. July used to be one of my favourite months for catching up on those jobs that are difficult to tackle during the busy growing season. This year, however, many gardens will need time to dry out before we can begin cutting back deciduous trees and shrubs. While we wait, it's the perfect opportunity to plan for the busy spring and summer months ahead. Keep an eye on areas of the garden that drain slowly, particularly where heavy clay soils are a problem. These spots may need some intervention to prevent ongoing waterlogging. Digging shallow drainage channels can help remove standing water or redirect excess water to a lower area where it won't cause problems. Bulbs, tubers and plant roots can quickly rot if left sitting in saturated soil for too long. If you're concerned, lift dahlia tubers and any valuable bulbs, pot them up, and keep them in a sheltered spot until the garden has drained enough for replanting. Rose pruning: As I mentioned last week, rose pruning is best left until August, when the wood has had time to firm up. Ideally, pruning should be completed before the buds begin to break. Planting and transplanting: Garden centres are now well stocked with bare-rooted deciduous trees, roses and fruit trees. Make your selections before the best varieties sell out, but wait until the ground is no longer wet or frozen before planting. Trees and shrubs will happily remain in their bags for a while if kept watered. Before planting, always read the label carefully and consider the mature height and spread of the plant. A small shrub today can become a very large tree in years to come. Vegetable garden: Wet winter soils are best left alone until they begin to dry. Once workable, dig over vacant beds and incorporate generous amounts of compost and well-rotted manure, as heavy rain will have leached nutrients from the soil. Then allow frost and worms to continue improving the soil structure before spring planting. In colder districts, garlic can be started in containers if the ground remains frozen. Coastal gardeners can continue planting garlic into well-drained soil. If you grow early potatoes, have them ready to plant once conditions improve. Now is the perfect time to chit them by placing seed potatoes in a cool, frost-free, well-lit position to encourage short, sturdy green shoots that will establish quickly once planted. Gardeners with a greenhouse or cold frame can begin raising early vegetable seedlings ready for spring. Comfrey remains one of the most useful plants to have in the garden. Its potassium-rich leaves make an excellent compost activator, liquid fertiliser and mulch around tomatoes, beans and other fruiting plants. Fruit garden: Buy deciduous fruit trees and berry bushes while they are on offer, then plant when the ground allows. Choose sunny positions and avoid frost hollows for early-flowering varieties such as plums, pears and apricots. Resist the temptation to prune peaches and nectarines during winter. These are best pruned in early spring as growth begins, allowing wounds to heal quickly and making it easier to see which flower buds have survived winter. Cherries are best pruned during summer on fine days to reduce the risk of silver leaf disease. Apple and pear trees respond differently to heavy winter pruning. Excessively hard pruning often produces masses of water shoots and leafy growth at the expense of fruit, so vigorous trees are often better managed with summer pruning once the leaves have fully developed. Prepare new strawberry beds whenever conditions allow. To maintain healthy, productive plants, replace old beds every three years and renew the soil where possible. When propagating from runners, always select the runners closest to the parent plant, allowing them to root well before separating them in early spring. Cheers, Linda

Comfry plant & flowers.

Gardening in Waitaki June 30th 2026

Peach leafcurl

Pruning peach trees:

Winter has certainly settled in now, with crisp frosty mornings reminding us of the season. Yet, between the cold snaps, there are already gentle hints of spring. Spring bulbs are flowering in higher coastal areas. Frost draws up moisture, leaving soil cold and damp, but don't forget gardens growing beneath wide eaves. They often receive very little winter rain, particularly during windy weather, and may still need watering every couple of weeks. Winter may be quieter in the garden, but it is one of the most rewarding seasons for preparing for the busy months ahead. One of the biggest winter tasks in my previous large garden was cutting back deciduous shrubs and tackling convolvulus. Once the top growth dies away, it becomes much easier to follow the long white roots weaving through the soil and around the roots of other plants. I once dug a wheelbarrow full of convolvulus roots from one small area! There is something immensely satisfying about pulling out one long root without it breaking. As I never used weed sprays in gardens, digging and hand-pulling were my only weapons, and winter is by far the easiest time to win the battle. Pruning: Before picking up the secateurs, take a moment to understand how the plant grows. Does it flower on new wood or old wood? Does it produce fruit on young growth or mature spurs? Knowing the answers helps you prune at the right time. But don't be afraid to have a go—at worst you may lose a season of flowers and gain valuable experience. Leave hydrangeas and lavender until early spring. Their old stems help protect tender new growth from heavy frosts. Rose pruning can wait a while as frosts started late and the wood needs time to harden. Have mulch and manure-enriched compost ready for after pruning, keeping it away from the base of the stems to prevent rotting. Many gardeners use winter sprays to reduce pests and diseases. Lime sulphur is commonly applied before pruning to clean up fungal diseases, scale, mites, moss and lichen on deciduous trees and roses. After pruning, a copper spray combined with winter oil provides further protection before spring growth begins. Trees and Shrubs: Bare-rooted deciduous trees and shrubs are arriving in garden centres now. Early Winter is the perfect planting season while the soil remains moist, but avoid planting into frozen or waterlogged ground. Evergreen trees and shrubs are also available, but there's no rush to plant them. If buying, keep them outdoors in their pots in a sheltered position to harden until late winter, then plant when the soil begins to warm. Always read the mature size on the label before planting. A small shrub can become a very large one in only a few years, particularly many of our native species. Take care when planting near buildings, fences or paths. Young deciduous trees and shrubs can also be lifted and moved during winter if necessary. Trim damaged roots and shorten any excessively long ones before replanting. Vegetable Garden: Heavy winter rain often leaves vegetable gardens cold and waterlogged, so don't worry if growth has slowed right down. Most vegetables simply wait for warmer soil before they begin growing again. Once the soil becomes workable, weed garden beds and add aged manure or manure-enriched compost. Earthworms will spend winter incorporating the organic matter, leaving beautifully prepared soil for spring planting. If your ground stays wet and freezes, start garlic in containers and transplant it once the soil warms. Sow leek seeds now to plant out in september. Early seed potatoes can be "chitted" indoors now. Place them somewhere cool, bright and frost-free to develop short, sturdy green-purple shoots ready for planting later. Fruit Trees: Leaf curl is a common disease of peaches and nectarines. Trees affected will need regular spraying with Copper Oxychloride, if you are to keep the disease at bay. Spray soon after pruning in winter, then just before the tree comes into leaf in spring and again 10-14 days later, before blossom burst. The disease overwinters in buds and is common in cool, wet weather in spring. Rake up fallen leaves and burn or put them into the rubbish. Copper Oxychloride is a protectant spray; Bravo or GreenGuard can be used if the infestation is particularly heavy. There are peach varieties that are resistant to leaf curl, such as sweet Perfection, a locally bred peach naturally Peach trees resistant to leaf curl. April White, Good resistance to leaf curl. Sanguine is an old heritage variety. Frost is one of the best-known leaf curl-resistant peaches worldwide. Now is the time to plant deciduous fruit trees and bushes. Choose a sunny position and avoid frosty hollows for early flowering varieties such as plums, pears and apricots. Frost-prone sites are less of a problem for berries and other soft fruits, as winter chilling encourages good fruit bud development. Leave pruning until later in July. Cheers, Linda

Chitting potatoes.

Gardening in Waitaki June 24th 2026

Winter has not yet fully settled in on the North Otago coast as I write this. We have been enjoying a run of warm, sun-filled days, although I am sure frosty mornings and icy nights have already made their presence felt further inland. Despite the milder conditions, there is still plenty to keep gardeners busy. Now is an excellent time for planning, planting, pruning and preparing the garden for the busy spring season ahead. Roses: Rosewood needs colder weather to harden, so rose pruning can be left until the end of July / August. New bare-root roses are arriving in garden centres now. With the ground still warm its an ideal time to plant Trees and Shrubs: Deciduous trees and shrubs can also be planted while the soil remains moist and workable. Carefully consider the mature size of trees before planting. Maples, dogwoods, silver birch and forest pansy all provide excellent structure and seasonal interest. Winter-flowering shrubs such as daphne, viburnum, witch hazel, and sarcocca bring valuable fragrance to the garden during the colder months. Winter Colour: Polyanthus, primroses and hellebores, even early spring bulbs are beginning to brighten gardens. Established primrose clumps can be divided and replanted to spread colour through borders. Bergenia and nandina also provide excellent winter foliage interest, with colours intensifying in colder weather. Dahlias and Summer Bulbs: Where soils remain wet through winter, lift and store dahlia tubers to prevent rotting. In well-drained gardens, cut back frost-damaged growth, divide overcrowded clumps and replant with a protective mulch. Gladioli and peonies can all be planted now in sunny, free-draining positions. Lawns and Compost: Lawn growth has slowed considerably. If clay soils become hard and cracked over summer, apply gypsum during wet weather to improve soil structure. Compost heaps slow down during winter but remain active if kept moist and covered. Turn compost regularly and add manure, leaves or comfrey to boost decomposition. Vegetable Garden: On the coast, continue planting garlic, shallots, onion sets, broad beans, brassicas and leafy greens growth is still happening with warmth still in the soil. Inland gardeners may need the protection of glasshouses or tunnel houses. Start chitting seed potatoes by placing them in a cool, bright position. Prepare garden beds for spring by digging in compost and applying dolomite lime where leafy vegetables and onions will be grown. Under Glass: Clean glasshouses and tunnel houses thoroughly once emptied of summer growth. Disinfect surfaces and refresh growing media with compost and manure. Lettuce, early potatoes and trays of seed sown spring annuals can then be raised under protection. Fruit Garden: Continue planting deciduous fruit trees and berry bushes. If you would like to grow fruit trees but don't have space for full-sized trees, consider planting them in EverGrow Bags. These specially designed bags restrict the tap root while encouraging the development of feeder roots, helping to keep trees at a more manageable size without compromising their health or productivity. They are an excellent option for smaller gardens or those with limited space. EverGrow Bags website: https://evergrowbags.co.nz/ Wait a while yet before pruning, Apples and pears, while peaches and plums are best left until early spring. Protect young citrus from heavy frosts and continue harvesting winter fruit such as tamarillos and lemons. For the Birds: Native birds appreciate extra food during winter. Sugar water feeders can provide valuable support for nectar-feeding species, and wild bird seed helps nourish them when fruit and berries are scarce through the colder months. Cheers Linda.

Grow in evergrow bags, in or out of the ground.

Gardening in Waitaki June 17th 2026

Some good rain for North Otago this week, let's hope it reaches down deep where it is needed. In my past large garden, I would be doing a lot of work at this time, compost and pea straw spreading, and having a man with a chainsaw and hedge trimmer attack the ivy that covered the tank stand. It is too late in the year to trim soft trees and shrubs, but ivy can be taken back to its clinging branches to start again at this time of the year. If you have ivy growing it needs to be trimmed at least twice a year; it is like wisteria if you are too kind to it. Each soft leader put out will grow into a thick woody tree trunk in time. What a great time of the year to look closely at the garden, now that some trees and shrubs are bare, inspection of sprouting new growth beneath their graft area can be done. All large deciduous trees such as flowering cherries, magnolias, silver birch, ashes, oaks, and any large well-grown specimen tree bought today, will have been grafted onto strong-growing rootstock different from the top graft. From time to time, the rootstock will push growth out and up, and because it is a strong grower, it will always overtake the grafted specimen. Rogue growth must be cut out as I have seen a few mature trees left to grow this way, and the result is not good, a prunus displaying beautiful pink blossom on one side and insipid root stock white blossom on the other side. Thinning out of branches can be done now. If branches are crossing over each other or there are far too many in the centre of a tree, don't just shorten a branch back because it will regrow from that point; take it right out and let some light in. Prunus and crab apple trees are bad for producing overcrowded branches, which tend to rub together and encourage disease if not removed. Make sure you choose a fine day to prune, and your pruning equipment is cleaned from one tree to the next. Methylated spirits are good for doing this. Digging up and shifting trees & shrubs around like rhododendrons, azaleas, and magnolias, anything you think has been struggling in the spot it has been planted in. This is the time to remove trees and shrubs that have long outgrown their youthful beauty and replace them with a younger version of the original or something different. You can change the whole look of a tired garden by doing this. As I have mentioned before, if a huge gap is going to be left with the removal of a tree or shrub, fill the gap with a section of manuka screening placed behind the replacement plant, it will give protection, and once the plant has reached the desired height and width, the screening can be removed. Plant sweet peas now to flower early in spring. Soak seeds for 24 hours before planting to soften the seed coat and encourage faster germination. Sow two seeds per deep pot filled with quality potting mix, planting them about 1 cm deep. Cover with a clear lid or plastic cover and place in a cool, bright position until they sprout. When seedlings reach 10–15 cm tall, pinch out the growing tip to encourage bushy, vigorous plants. Before planting, enrich the soil with plenty of compost or well-rotted manure, as sweet peas are heavy feeders. While weeding, I find a lot of seedling trees and shrubs popping up that birds have introduced, some of which have grown amongst shrubs like rhododendrons and camellias, and have become quite established before I noticed them and are stubborn to remove. It is best to get the spade down and remove them completely if you can, and if lucky enough to get roots intact, they can be potted. On the coast, there are so many plants that self-seed and can be lifted, potted, or transplanted at this time of the year, hellebore, lupins, poppies, pansies, viola, forget- me- not and primula, to name but a few. If you have polyanthas you left in the ground from last year, they will have grown enough to be broken apart. Pollanths respond well to a dressing of dried blood, as do camellias and Daphnes if they do not look like they are thriving. Lawns: It is best to keep off lawns while soft and wet. Lawns that performed poorly despite feeding and watering over the summer may be improved with winter liming. Flat weeds pop out easily now with a blade; it is too cold now for weed killer to work. Vegetables: In the vegetable garden where green leafy vegetables and onions will be growing next summer, give a dressing of 250 grams per square meter of dolomite lime. If you follow a regular rotation, this will ensure that most of the garden receives lime once in three years. Permanent crops like rhubarb should be limed every three years as well. In gardens fed with compost rather than chemical fertilisers, the PH tends to rise gradually, eventually making regular liming unnecessary. Cheers, Linda. --

Linda Wilson Gardening North Otago Mbl: 027 4430256

Gardening in Waitaki June 10th 2026

As we approach the shortest day of the year, there is still enough warmth in the midday sun to encourage slow growth, while frosts sweeten crops, improve soil structure and help reduce pests and diseases. If tender plants are at risk, cover them with frost cloth, allowing sunlight to warm the soil during the day and provide protection overnight. Trees and Shrubs: With deciduous trees now bare, this is the ideal time for inspection and maintenance. Remove any growth appearing below the graft on ornamental trees such as flowering cherries, magnolias, silver birch, ash and oak. Left unchecked, rootstock growth will eventually compete with the chosen variety, spoiling the tree's appearance and weakening its structure. Look for branches that cross, rub together or overcrowd the centre of the tree. Remove them completely rather than shortening them, making a clean, angled cut just outside the branch collar. Flowering cherries, crab apples and silver pears especially benefit from this thinning. To minimise the risk of silver leaf disease on prunus trees, prune only on a fine, dry day and disinfect tools with methylated spirits between trees. Standard Kilmarnock willows deserve annual attention. Their naturally ground-hugging growth has been grafted onto upright trunks, so dead growth accumulates beneath each season's canopy instead of breaking down naturally. Gently remove all old, brittle growth to prevent the tree from becoming top-heavy. Robinia mop tops also need their yearly cut back, removing all previous season's growth to maintain their neat, rounded shape, while weeping silver pears benefit from opening up the centre and removing any upright shoots. Spring Bulbs The best time for planting spring bulbs is Autumn, but there is still time to plant for a later spring display. Plant bulbs to a depth twice the diameter of the bulb; this depth ensures the darkness and moisture needed for bulbs to produce flowers. I have been nurturing seeds that germinated over the past two weeks. During these short winter days, they grow slowly, so I bring the trays indoors each night. On fine days, they go back outside, while on colder days, they remain in a bright spot indoors. Here on the coast, as the days gradually lengthen, growth will steadily accelerate, and by spring the seedlings should be a good size to pot up, bud and flower early. Further inland, where winter arrives earlier and lingers longer, gardeners need to be more patient, waiting until spring before new growth—apart from the ever-reliable spring bulbs bursting into action.   Flowers and Ornamentals Winter is an excellent time to lift and replant self-sown hellebores, lupins, violas, pansies, poppies, forget-me-nots and primulas. Polyanthas left in the garden from last year often multiply into generous clumps that can be divided and replanted. A light dressing of dried blood will encourage healthy green growth. Leucodendrons are a great addition to any garden, providing wonderful winter colour and making excellent cut flowers that last for weeks indoors. They thrive in full sun and well-drained acidic soil, dislike fertiliser and should never be moved once established.Compost and Mulch: I know I mention this often, but it is one of the best winter jobs, cleaning up fallen leaves, removing pest hiding places and spreading generous layers of compost over ornamental beds before topping with mulch. Earthworms will gradually work these nutrients down to the roots, ready for spring growth. Winter is also a good time to observe drainage problems while the ground is wet. Plants sitting in waterlogged areas can often be saved by lifting them, breaking through any clay pan beneath and adding stones or gravel to improve drainage if needed. Vegetable Garden: Frosts are helping break down heavy soil and reduce pest numbers, but winter vegetables still appreciate moisture during dry spells, as damp soil retains warmth better than dry soil.Continue planting broad beans, garlic, shallots, rhubarb and asparagus crowns on the coast. Have garlic ready for planting on the shortest day, using locally grown cloves rather than supermarket garlic wherever possible. Prepare next summer's leafy vegetable and onion beds with dolomite lime at approximately 250 grams per square metre if your soil requires it. Gardens that receive generous annual applications of compost often maintain a suitable pH naturally, reducing the need for regular liming.Glasshouses and tunnel houses should now be emptied of old summer crops, cleaned thoroughly and refreshed with new compost. Good hygiene now reduces problems next season. Fruit Trees: Bare-rooted fruit trees are arriving in garden centres this month. Prepare a sunny, open site with plenty of space for the tree to mature and receive maximum sunlight. Good air movement and access for pollinating bees will reward you with healthier trees and better crops in years to come.

Gardening in Waitaki Early June.

Dig and store dahlia tubers in colder areas.

We are fast approaching the shortest day, and while there is still enough warmth in the winter sun to make gardening pleasant once the frost has lifted, there is no mistaking that winter has arrived when the sun disappears in the late afternoon. Frosts and short days are all part of nature's plan, helping deciduous trees receive the winter chilling they need, improving the flavour of crops such as parsnips by converting starches to sugars, and disrupting many pest and disease cycles.The milder periods we have experienced recently have encouraged some plants to make soft new growth and even brought early blossom and bulbs into flower. Keep an eye on tender plants such as fuchsia, daphne, and young seedlings, protecting them with frost cloth if necessary. Frost cloth allows light through during the day, helping plants recharge warmth for the following night. Now that deciduous trees and shrubs are bare, it is an ideal time to inspect them carefully. Remove any growth emerging from below graft unions on specimen trees such as flowering cherries, magnolias, silver birch, ash and oak. Rootstock growth can quickly overwhelm the desired tree if left unchecked. Remove crossing, crowded or rubbing branches completely rather than shortening them. Prunus, crab apples and silver pears are particularly prone to overcrowding. Prune on fine days and disinfect tools between trees with methylated spirits to help prevent the spread of diseases such as silver leaf.Rogue trees and shrubs carried in by birds are often much easier to spot at this time of year. Remove them before they become established and begin competing with valued plants. Many self-sown seedlings such as hellebores, lupins, poppies, pansies, violas, forget-me-nots and primulas can be lifted and transplanted now. Polyanthus that have multiplied in the garden can also be divided and replanted, with a light dressing of dried blood helping them settle in quickly. Hellebores, often called winter roses, are beginning to send up flower buds. Remove old foliage to show off the flowers and improve air circulation. Second-year seedlings can be transplanted to new positions, although they may still take a few years to flower. Hellebores look particularly effective when mass planted beneath rhododendrons, camellias and azaleas in damp, semi-shaded areas. I have just planted colourful wall flowers and sweet William plants in the hope they will set bud before the coldest part of winter.  Dahlias will now have been blackened by frost. Cut the stems back and protect tubers with a mulch of compost or straw. Large clumps can be divided now by lifting and separating tubers, providing extra plants for elsewhere in the garden or to share with friends. Further inland, it would be wise to lift and store dahlia tubers in a sheltered, overhead cover. New season bare-root roses are arriving in garden centres. Choose sunny, well-drained sites for planting. Where clay is present, dig deeply and incorporate gravel or stones beneath the planting hole to improve drainage and prevent roots from sitting in water.  Fruit: New-season bare-root fruit trees will soon be arriving in garden centres. Fruit trees require full sun and ample space to develop properly and produce healthy crops. Vegetable gardens benefit from winter attention. Apply dolomite lime at approximately 250 grams per square metre to areas where leafy vegetables and onions will grow next summer. Regular crop rotation ensures most beds receive lime every three years, while permanent crops such as rhubarb also appreciate occasional liming. Gardens regularly fed with compost often require less lime over time as soil structure and fertility improve naturally. Keep planting winter vegetables, broad beans, garlic, rhubarb and asparagus crowns where conditions allow. Garlic is traditionally planted on the shortest day, which is not far away now. Frost will continue breaking down soil clods and reducing overwintering pests, but if winter vegetables are becoming dry, water early in the day, as moist soil holds warmth better than dry soil.If you have a glasshouse or tunnel house, now is an excellent time for a thorough clean-up. Remove old summer crops, sterilise benches, pots and tools, and add fresh compost ready for spring growing. Keeping structures clean reduces the number of pests, fungal spores and diseases carried through into the next season. Cheers, Linda