Gardening in Waitaki July 15th 2026

July reminds us that winter still has plenty to say. After drenching rain, crisp frosts continue to greet us most mornings, and then a norwesterly wind brings warmth back. Those colder nights help keep early insect pests in check. Despite winter's grip, the garden is beginning to stir. Daphne is filling the air with perfume, while hellebores, primroses, polyanthus, violas and the first bulbs bring welcome colour to otherwise bare gardens. Primroses and polyanthus multiply readily and are easily divided. Lift established clumps, gently separate them into smaller plants, trim away some of the older foliage and keep them well watered until they establish. A light dressing of dried blood or fish fertiliser will encourage healthy growth and plenty of flowers. Mulching is one of the best jobs you can do this month. It helps conserve moisture, protects plant roots from fluctuating temperatures, suppresses winter weeds and feeds the soil as it breaks down. Apply it to damp soil wherever possible.Winter is an excellent time to improve the soil. Turn compost heaps to introduce oxygen and add moisture if they have become too dry. Fallen leaves need not be wasted either. Store them in large bags with a little water and allow them to rot into valuable leaf mould, one of the best soil conditioners you can make. Winter is also the ideal time to tackle pruning. Rose pruning for me is to happen next month when the rose wood is harder, but if you feel you need to get on with it, make every cut on a slight angle just above a strong outward-facing bud, using sharp secateurs to leave a clean cut that heals quickly. Bush roses can generally be reduced by about two-thirds, standards pruned back to around 25 centimetres above the head, while climbing roses need only the removal of old or weak growth, leaving five or six strong canes. Flower carpet and fairy roses can be reduced back with a hedge trimmer. If you have old, leggy rhododendrons that flower only at the tops of long woody branches, now is a good time to rejuvenate them. Although it may seem drastic, cutting them back to healthy growth lower down will encourage fresh shoots and eventually produce a fuller, bushier plant. You will sacrifice flowers for a season or two, but the long-term result is well worth the wait. Hydrangeas in milder areas can be pruned as they begin to show new leaf growth. Remove the old flower heads by cutting back to the second pair of healthy buds from the stem bottom, while leaving stems that did not flower, as these will often carry next season's blooms. If you prefer pink flowers, apply garden lime now. For blue blooms, use aluminium sulphate or a blue hydrangea fertiliser. Tender plants such as pelargoniums, hibiscus, bougainvillea and young marguerite daisies still need protection from heavy frosts. Frost cloth should be supported above the plants rather than resting directly on the foliage. Established marguerite daisies on the coast will often survive if the frosted outer growth is left in place to protect the new shoots beneath. Inland gardeners, where frosts are much harder, are usually better to overwinter cuttings under cover. Vegetable gardens remain productive on the coast, with silver beet, broccoli, cauliflower, kale, carrots, leeks and stored pumpkins all featuring in hearty winter meals. As beds become vacant, dig in compost and let frost, worms and winter weather continue improving the soil before spring planting. Garlic can still be planted successfully this month, either directly into well-drained soil or into containers in colder districts for planting out later. Plant individual cloves pointed end upwards, about five to seven centimetres deep and 10 to 15 centimetres apart. If you're planning an early potato crop, begin sprouting seed potatoes now in a cool, bright position. If you have room, consider growing comfrey. Its deep roots mine nutrients from well below the soil surface, making it an excellent compost activator, mulch and liquid fertiliser. The leaves are especially rich in potassium, making them valuable around tomatoes, potatoes, beans and fruiting plants. Fruit: Winter is also the best time to plant deciduous trees, fruit trees and berry bushes while they are dormant. Garden centres have their widest selection now, and planting before spring gives roots time to establish. Remember to keep the graft union above soil level and stake newly planted trees securely against our strong North Otago winds.Continue pruning apples and pears while dormant, leaving water shoots on apple trees until summer. and leave peaches until early spring when wounds heal more quickly, but for leaf curl controle a couple of sprays of copper oxychloride before bud burst will help. Tidy fruit bushes by removing old, unproductive growth, particularly from blackcurrants, which fruit best on younger wood. Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in Waitaki 8th July 2026

Well, where did all that rain come from? It arrived with such force, leaving a trail of destruction across our district. My thoughts are with everyone who was affected, and I sincerely hope those impacted are now receiving the support they need and are well on the way to getting life back to normal. Winter has well and truly settled in across North Otago. Rain and frost remind us that the coldest part of the year is here, and sodden ground means gardens and lawns will remain out of bounds until we get some drying winds. Remove saucers from under pots, as standing water can freeze, damaging plant roots and rotting bulbs, so good drainage is essential. Although gardens appear quiet, so much is happening beneath the surface. Roots continue to grow, buds slowly develop, compost quietly matures, and every frosty morning helps prepare plants for the burst of growth that spring will soon bring. July used to be one of my favourite months for catching up on those jobs that are difficult to tackle during the busy growing season. This year, however, many gardens will need time to dry out before we can begin cutting back deciduous trees and shrubs. While we wait, it's the perfect opportunity to plan for the busy spring and summer months ahead. Keep an eye on areas of the garden that drain slowly, particularly where heavy clay soils are a problem. These spots may need some intervention to prevent ongoing waterlogging. Digging shallow drainage channels can help remove standing water or redirect excess water to a lower area where it won't cause problems. Bulbs, tubers and plant roots can quickly rot if left sitting in saturated soil for too long. If you're concerned, lift dahlia tubers and any valuable bulbs, pot them up, and keep them in a sheltered spot until the garden has drained enough for replanting. Rose pruning: As I mentioned last week, rose pruning is best left until August, when the wood has had time to firm up. Ideally, pruning should be completed before the buds begin to break. Planting and transplanting: Garden centres are now well stocked with bare-rooted deciduous trees, roses and fruit trees. Make your selections before the best varieties sell out, but wait until the ground is no longer wet or frozen before planting. Trees and shrubs will happily remain in their bags for a while if kept watered. Before planting, always read the label carefully and consider the mature height and spread of the plant. A small shrub today can become a very large tree in years to come. Vegetable garden: Wet winter soils are best left alone until they begin to dry. Once workable, dig over vacant beds and incorporate generous amounts of compost and well-rotted manure, as heavy rain will have leached nutrients from the soil. Then allow frost and worms to continue improving the soil structure before spring planting. In colder districts, garlic can be started in containers if the ground remains frozen. Coastal gardeners can continue planting garlic into well-drained soil. If you grow early potatoes, have them ready to plant once conditions improve. Now is the perfect time to chit them by placing seed potatoes in a cool, frost-free, well-lit position to encourage short, sturdy green shoots that will establish quickly once planted. Gardeners with a greenhouse or cold frame can begin raising early vegetable seedlings ready for spring. Comfrey remains one of the most useful plants to have in the garden. Its potassium-rich leaves make an excellent compost activator, liquid fertiliser and mulch around tomatoes, beans and other fruiting plants. Fruit garden: Buy deciduous fruit trees and berry bushes while they are on offer, then plant when the ground allows. Choose sunny positions and avoid frost hollows for early-flowering varieties such as plums, pears and apricots. Resist the temptation to prune peaches and nectarines during winter. These are best pruned in early spring as growth begins, allowing wounds to heal quickly and making it easier to see which flower buds have survived winter. Cherries are best pruned during summer on fine days to reduce the risk of silver leaf disease. Apple and pear trees respond differently to heavy winter pruning. Excessively hard pruning often produces masses of water shoots and leafy growth at the expense of fruit, so vigorous trees are often better managed with summer pruning once the leaves have fully developed. Prepare new strawberry beds whenever conditions allow. To maintain healthy, productive plants, replace old beds every three years and renew the soil where possible. When propagating from runners, always select the runners closest to the parent plant, allowing them to root well before separating them in early spring. Cheers, Linda

Comfry plant & flowers.

Gardening in Waitaki June 30th 2026

Peach leafcurl

Pruning peach trees:

Winter has certainly settled in now, with crisp frosty mornings reminding us of the season. Yet, between the cold snaps, there are already gentle hints of spring. Spring bulbs are flowering in higher coastal areas. Frost draws up moisture, leaving soil cold and damp, but don't forget gardens growing beneath wide eaves. They often receive very little winter rain, particularly during windy weather, and may still need watering every couple of weeks. Winter may be quieter in the garden, but it is one of the most rewarding seasons for preparing for the busy months ahead. One of the biggest winter tasks in my previous large garden was cutting back deciduous shrubs and tackling convolvulus. Once the top growth dies away, it becomes much easier to follow the long white roots weaving through the soil and around the roots of other plants. I once dug a wheelbarrow full of convolvulus roots from one small area! There is something immensely satisfying about pulling out one long root without it breaking. As I never used weed sprays in gardens, digging and hand-pulling were my only weapons, and winter is by far the easiest time to win the battle. Pruning: Before picking up the secateurs, take a moment to understand how the plant grows. Does it flower on new wood or old wood? Does it produce fruit on young growth or mature spurs? Knowing the answers helps you prune at the right time. But don't be afraid to have a go—at worst you may lose a season of flowers and gain valuable experience. Leave hydrangeas and lavender until early spring. Their old stems help protect tender new growth from heavy frosts. Rose pruning can wait a while as frosts started late and the wood needs time to harden. Have mulch and manure-enriched compost ready for after pruning, keeping it away from the base of the stems to prevent rotting. Many gardeners use winter sprays to reduce pests and diseases. Lime sulphur is commonly applied before pruning to clean up fungal diseases, scale, mites, moss and lichen on deciduous trees and roses. After pruning, a copper spray combined with winter oil provides further protection before spring growth begins. Trees and Shrubs: Bare-rooted deciduous trees and shrubs are arriving in garden centres now. Early Winter is the perfect planting season while the soil remains moist, but avoid planting into frozen or waterlogged ground. Evergreen trees and shrubs are also available, but there's no rush to plant them. If buying, keep them outdoors in their pots in a sheltered position to harden until late winter, then plant when the soil begins to warm. Always read the mature size on the label before planting. A small shrub can become a very large one in only a few years, particularly many of our native species. Take care when planting near buildings, fences or paths. Young deciduous trees and shrubs can also be lifted and moved during winter if necessary. Trim damaged roots and shorten any excessively long ones before replanting. Vegetable Garden: Heavy winter rain often leaves vegetable gardens cold and waterlogged, so don't worry if growth has slowed right down. Most vegetables simply wait for warmer soil before they begin growing again. Once the soil becomes workable, weed garden beds and add aged manure or manure-enriched compost. Earthworms will spend winter incorporating the organic matter, leaving beautifully prepared soil for spring planting. If your ground stays wet and freezes, start garlic in containers and transplant it once the soil warms. Sow leek seeds now to plant out in september. Early seed potatoes can be "chitted" indoors now. Place them somewhere cool, bright and frost-free to develop short, sturdy green-purple shoots ready for planting later. Fruit Trees: Leaf curl is a common disease of peaches and nectarines. Trees affected will need regular spraying with Copper Oxychloride, if you are to keep the disease at bay. Spray soon after pruning in winter, then just before the tree comes into leaf in spring and again 10-14 days later, before blossom burst. The disease overwinters in buds and is common in cool, wet weather in spring. Rake up fallen leaves and burn or put them into the rubbish. Copper Oxychloride is a protectant spray; Bravo or GreenGuard can be used if the infestation is particularly heavy. There are peach varieties that are resistant to leaf curl, such as sweet Perfection, a locally bred peach naturally Peach trees resistant to leaf curl. April White, Good resistance to leaf curl. Sanguine is an old heritage variety. Frost is one of the best-known leaf curl-resistant peaches worldwide. Now is the time to plant deciduous fruit trees and bushes. Choose a sunny position and avoid frosty hollows for early flowering varieties such as plums, pears and apricots. Frost-prone sites are less of a problem for berries and other soft fruits, as winter chilling encourages good fruit bud development. Leave pruning until later in July. Cheers, Linda

Chitting potatoes.

Gardening in Waitaki June 24th 2026

Winter has not yet fully settled in on the North Otago coast as I write this. We have been enjoying a run of warm, sun-filled days, although I am sure frosty mornings and icy nights have already made their presence felt further inland. Despite the milder conditions, there is still plenty to keep gardeners busy. Now is an excellent time for planning, planting, pruning and preparing the garden for the busy spring season ahead. Roses: Rosewood needs colder weather to harden, so rose pruning can be left until the end of July / August. New bare-root roses are arriving in garden centres now. With the ground still warm its an ideal time to plant Trees and Shrubs: Deciduous trees and shrubs can also be planted while the soil remains moist and workable. Carefully consider the mature size of trees before planting. Maples, dogwoods, silver birch and forest pansy all provide excellent structure and seasonal interest. Winter-flowering shrubs such as daphne, viburnum, witch hazel, and sarcocca bring valuable fragrance to the garden during the colder months. Winter Colour: Polyanthus, primroses and hellebores, even early spring bulbs are beginning to brighten gardens. Established primrose clumps can be divided and replanted to spread colour through borders. Bergenia and nandina also provide excellent winter foliage interest, with colours intensifying in colder weather. Dahlias and Summer Bulbs: Where soils remain wet through winter, lift and store dahlia tubers to prevent rotting. In well-drained gardens, cut back frost-damaged growth, divide overcrowded clumps and replant with a protective mulch. Gladioli and peonies can all be planted now in sunny, free-draining positions. Lawns and Compost: Lawn growth has slowed considerably. If clay soils become hard and cracked over summer, apply gypsum during wet weather to improve soil structure. Compost heaps slow down during winter but remain active if kept moist and covered. Turn compost regularly and add manure, leaves or comfrey to boost decomposition. Vegetable Garden: On the coast, continue planting garlic, shallots, onion sets, broad beans, brassicas and leafy greens growth is still happening with warmth still in the soil. Inland gardeners may need the protection of glasshouses or tunnel houses. Start chitting seed potatoes by placing them in a cool, bright position. Prepare garden beds for spring by digging in compost and applying dolomite lime where leafy vegetables and onions will be grown. Under Glass: Clean glasshouses and tunnel houses thoroughly once emptied of summer growth. Disinfect surfaces and refresh growing media with compost and manure. Lettuce, early potatoes and trays of seed sown spring annuals can then be raised under protection. Fruit Garden: Continue planting deciduous fruit trees and berry bushes. If you would like to grow fruit trees but don't have space for full-sized trees, consider planting them in EverGrow Bags. These specially designed bags restrict the tap root while encouraging the development of feeder roots, helping to keep trees at a more manageable size without compromising their health or productivity. They are an excellent option for smaller gardens or those with limited space. EverGrow Bags website: https://evergrowbags.co.nz/ Wait a while yet before pruning, Apples and pears, while peaches and plums are best left until early spring. Protect young citrus from heavy frosts and continue harvesting winter fruit such as tamarillos and lemons. For the Birds: Native birds appreciate extra food during winter. Sugar water feeders can provide valuable support for nectar-feeding species, and wild bird seed helps nourish them when fruit and berries are scarce through the colder months. Cheers Linda.

Grow in evergrow bags, in or out of the ground.

Gardening in Waitaki June 17th 2026

Some good rain for North Otago this week, let's hope it reaches down deep where it is needed. In my past large garden, I would be doing a lot of work at this time, compost and pea straw spreading, and having a man with a chainsaw and hedge trimmer attack the ivy that covered the tank stand. It is too late in the year to trim soft trees and shrubs, but ivy can be taken back to its clinging branches to start again at this time of the year. If you have ivy growing it needs to be trimmed at least twice a year; it is like wisteria if you are too kind to it. Each soft leader put out will grow into a thick woody tree trunk in time. What a great time of the year to look closely at the garden, now that some trees and shrubs are bare, inspection of sprouting new growth beneath their graft area can be done. All large deciduous trees such as flowering cherries, magnolias, silver birch, ashes, oaks, and any large well-grown specimen tree bought today, will have been grafted onto strong-growing rootstock different from the top graft. From time to time, the rootstock will push growth out and up, and because it is a strong grower, it will always overtake the grafted specimen. Rogue growth must be cut out as I have seen a few mature trees left to grow this way, and the result is not good, a prunus displaying beautiful pink blossom on one side and insipid root stock white blossom on the other side. Thinning out of branches can be done now. If branches are crossing over each other or there are far too many in the centre of a tree, don't just shorten a branch back because it will regrow from that point; take it right out and let some light in. Prunus and crab apple trees are bad for producing overcrowded branches, which tend to rub together and encourage disease if not removed. Make sure you choose a fine day to prune, and your pruning equipment is cleaned from one tree to the next. Methylated spirits are good for doing this. Digging up and shifting trees & shrubs around like rhododendrons, azaleas, and magnolias, anything you think has been struggling in the spot it has been planted in. This is the time to remove trees and shrubs that have long outgrown their youthful beauty and replace them with a younger version of the original or something different. You can change the whole look of a tired garden by doing this. As I have mentioned before, if a huge gap is going to be left with the removal of a tree or shrub, fill the gap with a section of manuka screening placed behind the replacement plant, it will give protection, and once the plant has reached the desired height and width, the screening can be removed. Plant sweet peas now to flower early in spring. Soak seeds for 24 hours before planting to soften the seed coat and encourage faster germination. Sow two seeds per deep pot filled with quality potting mix, planting them about 1 cm deep. Cover with a clear lid or plastic cover and place in a cool, bright position until they sprout. When seedlings reach 10–15 cm tall, pinch out the growing tip to encourage bushy, vigorous plants. Before planting, enrich the soil with plenty of compost or well-rotted manure, as sweet peas are heavy feeders. While weeding, I find a lot of seedling trees and shrubs popping up that birds have introduced, some of which have grown amongst shrubs like rhododendrons and camellias, and have become quite established before I noticed them and are stubborn to remove. It is best to get the spade down and remove them completely if you can, and if lucky enough to get roots intact, they can be potted. On the coast, there are so many plants that self-seed and can be lifted, potted, or transplanted at this time of the year, hellebore, lupins, poppies, pansies, viola, forget- me- not and primula, to name but a few. If you have polyanthas you left in the ground from last year, they will have grown enough to be broken apart. Pollanths respond well to a dressing of dried blood, as do camellias and Daphnes if they do not look like they are thriving. Lawns: It is best to keep off lawns while soft and wet. Lawns that performed poorly despite feeding and watering over the summer may be improved with winter liming. Flat weeds pop out easily now with a blade; it is too cold now for weed killer to work. Vegetables: In the vegetable garden where green leafy vegetables and onions will be growing next summer, give a dressing of 250 grams per square meter of dolomite lime. If you follow a regular rotation, this will ensure that most of the garden receives lime once in three years. Permanent crops like rhubarb should be limed every three years as well. In gardens fed with compost rather than chemical fertilisers, the PH tends to rise gradually, eventually making regular liming unnecessary. Cheers, Linda. --

Linda Wilson Gardening North Otago Mbl: 027 4430256

Gardening in Waitaki June 10th 2026

As we approach the shortest day of the year, there is still enough warmth in the midday sun to encourage slow growth, while frosts sweeten crops, improve soil structure and help reduce pests and diseases. If tender plants are at risk, cover them with frost cloth, allowing sunlight to warm the soil during the day and provide protection overnight. Trees and Shrubs: With deciduous trees now bare, this is the ideal time for inspection and maintenance. Remove any growth appearing below the graft on ornamental trees such as flowering cherries, magnolias, silver birch, ash and oak. Left unchecked, rootstock growth will eventually compete with the chosen variety, spoiling the tree's appearance and weakening its structure. Look for branches that cross, rub together or overcrowd the centre of the tree. Remove them completely rather than shortening them, making a clean, angled cut just outside the branch collar. Flowering cherries, crab apples and silver pears especially benefit from this thinning. To minimise the risk of silver leaf disease on prunus trees, prune only on a fine, dry day and disinfect tools with methylated spirits between trees. Standard Kilmarnock willows deserve annual attention. Their naturally ground-hugging growth has been grafted onto upright trunks, so dead growth accumulates beneath each season's canopy instead of breaking down naturally. Gently remove all old, brittle growth to prevent the tree from becoming top-heavy. Robinia mop tops also need their yearly cut back, removing all previous season's growth to maintain their neat, rounded shape, while weeping silver pears benefit from opening up the centre and removing any upright shoots. Spring Bulbs The best time for planting spring bulbs is Autumn, but there is still time to plant for a later spring display. Plant bulbs to a depth twice the diameter of the bulb; this depth ensures the darkness and moisture needed for bulbs to produce flowers. I have been nurturing seeds that germinated over the past two weeks. During these short winter days, they grow slowly, so I bring the trays indoors each night. On fine days, they go back outside, while on colder days, they remain in a bright spot indoors. Here on the coast, as the days gradually lengthen, growth will steadily accelerate, and by spring the seedlings should be a good size to pot up, bud and flower early. Further inland, where winter arrives earlier and lingers longer, gardeners need to be more patient, waiting until spring before new growth—apart from the ever-reliable spring bulbs bursting into action.   Flowers and Ornamentals Winter is an excellent time to lift and replant self-sown hellebores, lupins, violas, pansies, poppies, forget-me-nots and primulas. Polyanthas left in the garden from last year often multiply into generous clumps that can be divided and replanted. A light dressing of dried blood will encourage healthy green growth. Leucodendrons are a great addition to any garden, providing wonderful winter colour and making excellent cut flowers that last for weeks indoors. They thrive in full sun and well-drained acidic soil, dislike fertiliser and should never be moved once established.Compost and Mulch: I know I mention this often, but it is one of the best winter jobs, cleaning up fallen leaves, removing pest hiding places and spreading generous layers of compost over ornamental beds before topping with mulch. Earthworms will gradually work these nutrients down to the roots, ready for spring growth. Winter is also a good time to observe drainage problems while the ground is wet. Plants sitting in waterlogged areas can often be saved by lifting them, breaking through any clay pan beneath and adding stones or gravel to improve drainage if needed. Vegetable Garden: Frosts are helping break down heavy soil and reduce pest numbers, but winter vegetables still appreciate moisture during dry spells, as damp soil retains warmth better than dry soil.Continue planting broad beans, garlic, shallots, rhubarb and asparagus crowns on the coast. Have garlic ready for planting on the shortest day, using locally grown cloves rather than supermarket garlic wherever possible. Prepare next summer's leafy vegetable and onion beds with dolomite lime at approximately 250 grams per square metre if your soil requires it. Gardens that receive generous annual applications of compost often maintain a suitable pH naturally, reducing the need for regular liming.Glasshouses and tunnel houses should now be emptied of old summer crops, cleaned thoroughly and refreshed with new compost. Good hygiene now reduces problems next season. Fruit Trees: Bare-rooted fruit trees are arriving in garden centres this month. Prepare a sunny, open site with plenty of space for the tree to mature and receive maximum sunlight. Good air movement and access for pollinating bees will reward you with healthier trees and better crops in years to come.

Gardening in Waitaki Early June.

Dig and store dahlia tubers in colder areas.

We are fast approaching the shortest day, and while there is still enough warmth in the winter sun to make gardening pleasant once the frost has lifted, there is no mistaking that winter has arrived when the sun disappears in the late afternoon. Frosts and short days are all part of nature's plan, helping deciduous trees receive the winter chilling they need, improving the flavour of crops such as parsnips by converting starches to sugars, and disrupting many pest and disease cycles.The milder periods we have experienced recently have encouraged some plants to make soft new growth and even brought early blossom and bulbs into flower. Keep an eye on tender plants such as fuchsia, daphne, and young seedlings, protecting them with frost cloth if necessary. Frost cloth allows light through during the day, helping plants recharge warmth for the following night. Now that deciduous trees and shrubs are bare, it is an ideal time to inspect them carefully. Remove any growth emerging from below graft unions on specimen trees such as flowering cherries, magnolias, silver birch, ash and oak. Rootstock growth can quickly overwhelm the desired tree if left unchecked. Remove crossing, crowded or rubbing branches completely rather than shortening them. Prunus, crab apples and silver pears are particularly prone to overcrowding. Prune on fine days and disinfect tools between trees with methylated spirits to help prevent the spread of diseases such as silver leaf.Rogue trees and shrubs carried in by birds are often much easier to spot at this time of year. Remove them before they become established and begin competing with valued plants. Many self-sown seedlings such as hellebores, lupins, poppies, pansies, violas, forget-me-nots and primulas can be lifted and transplanted now. Polyanthus that have multiplied in the garden can also be divided and replanted, with a light dressing of dried blood helping them settle in quickly. Hellebores, often called winter roses, are beginning to send up flower buds. Remove old foliage to show off the flowers and improve air circulation. Second-year seedlings can be transplanted to new positions, although they may still take a few years to flower. Hellebores look particularly effective when mass planted beneath rhododendrons, camellias and azaleas in damp, semi-shaded areas. I have just planted colourful wall flowers and sweet William plants in the hope they will set bud before the coldest part of winter.  Dahlias will now have been blackened by frost. Cut the stems back and protect tubers with a mulch of compost or straw. Large clumps can be divided now by lifting and separating tubers, providing extra plants for elsewhere in the garden or to share with friends. Further inland, it would be wise to lift and store dahlia tubers in a sheltered, overhead cover. New season bare-root roses are arriving in garden centres. Choose sunny, well-drained sites for planting. Where clay is present, dig deeply and incorporate gravel or stones beneath the planting hole to improve drainage and prevent roots from sitting in water.  Fruit: New-season bare-root fruit trees will soon be arriving in garden centres. Fruit trees require full sun and ample space to develop properly and produce healthy crops. Vegetable gardens benefit from winter attention. Apply dolomite lime at approximately 250 grams per square metre to areas where leafy vegetables and onions will grow next summer. Regular crop rotation ensures most beds receive lime every three years, while permanent crops such as rhubarb also appreciate occasional liming. Gardens regularly fed with compost often require less lime over time as soil structure and fertility improve naturally. Keep planting winter vegetables, broad beans, garlic, rhubarb and asparagus crowns where conditions allow. Garlic is traditionally planted on the shortest day, which is not far away now. Frost will continue breaking down soil clods and reducing overwintering pests, but if winter vegetables are becoming dry, water early in the day, as moist soil holds warmth better than dry soil.If you have a glasshouse or tunnel house, now is an excellent time for a thorough clean-up. Remove old summer crops, sterilise benches, pots and tools, and add fresh compost ready for spring growing. Keeping structures clean reduces the number of pests, fungal spores and diseases carried through into the next season. Cheers, Linda

Gardening in Waitaki June 1st 2026

Early June Winter will officially arrive soon, Enjoy the quieter pace of the garden this month. While growth above ground slows, important work continues beneath the soil, laying the foundations for another productive spring. My first frosts arrived last week along with cooler temperatures, although there were delightful days, reminders that winter can still offer beautiful gardening days. Frost cloth is back in use with me, especially for seedlings and cuttings. Frost can draw moisture from the soil, so keep an eye on shallow-rooted shrubs such as rhododendrons, camellias, hydrangeas, and maples. A thorough watering followed by a generous layer of compost or mulch will help protect roots through winter. Compost bins and heaps will be filling quickly with leaves, grass clippings, and soft garden trimmings. Layer materials with manure, a light sprinkling of lime, some finished compost, and water. Compost activity slows considerably in cold weather, so insulating heaps with straw or similar material helps retain warmth and keeps the composting organisms active. The effort will be well-rewarded in spring when gardens are hungry for nutrients. Hellebores are beginning to shine. Remove old foliage to expose the flowers and reduce overwintering pests such as greenfly. Roses should largely be left alone for now. Allow plants to finish hardening before the main winter prune in late June /July Strong rambling roses can have dead wood removed and excessively vigorous growth lightly reduced. If planting new roses this winter, prepare the ground now with compost or aged manure and avoid planting directly into soil where an old rose has recently grown without first replacing much of that soil. Tulips should be planted as soon as possible. Plant bulbs at least 10cm deep, or deeper in warm, north-facing gardens. A period of chilling before planting improves flowering. Lilies may also be planted and divided now, ensuring bulbs never dry out and are planted in well-drained soil. Hydrangeas are colouring beautifully as winter approaches. Leave flower heads intact until they become untidy, allowing stems to mature and harden. Large plants can be lifted and split by using a sharp saw, pieces can be planted to create new managable bushes. In colder districts, delay pruning until spring, removing flowering stems back to the second bud once new growth begins. Wisterias can be pruned once leaves have fallen, removing long, wandering shoots before they entwine around established branches. Container-grown buxus benefits from root pruning and fresh potting mix every couple of years. For winter colour, plant polyanthus, pansies, violas, primulas, wallflowers, ornamental kale, sweet peas, and poppies. Even a small pot by the front door can brighten the shortest days. Vegetable Garden: If earthworms are scarce, it is usually a sign that soil organic matter is lacking. Worms are invaluable workers, improving soil structure and fertility. Manure and compost encourage their activity and are especially worthwhile when establishing new vegetable beds. On the coast, broad beans, garlic, shallots, and rhubarb can still be planted. In colder inland areas, growth slows considerably, and protection may be needed for successful planting. Fruit: Bare-rooted fruit trees will soon be arriving in garden centres. Prepare planting sites now in sunny, sheltered positions with good drainage and plenty of organic matter. Apple, pear, and cherry trees fruit mainly on spurs and require only light pruning once established. Peaches and nectarines fruit on young wood and benefit from harder pruning to encourage fresh growth. Plum trees generally need only minimal pruning, with attention focused on removing upright water shoots and maintaining shape. Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in Waitaki May 20th 2026

Such a lovely, mellow time of the year, autumn’s softer days are ideal for tidying, shifting plants, improving soil, and preparing gardens for the colder months ahead. Compost always goes on first, spread thickly over cleared beds once autumn leaves and annual weeds have been removed. It feeds the soil and does a wonderful job of suppressing weeds. With my large, past garden, after compost, pea straw was spread over most gardens for added protection and warmth through winter. Be careful to keep mulch and compost away from bearded iris rhizomes and freesia bulbs, as they prefer to bake in the sun rather than remain covered and damp. This is an excellent time to reshape and reorganise gardens. Shrubs that have outgrown their allotted space can be lifted and shifted while the soil is still workable. Moving taller plants further back can completely open a garden, creating space for pathways, seating areas, pots, or statues. Reducing the height and width of trees and shrubs is often essential in smaller gardens, not only to maintain shape but also to allow more light onto lower-growing plants, encouraging healthier growth and better flowering. Perennial beds benefit greatly from attention now. Overgrown clumps can be lifted and divided, replanting only the younger, vigorous growth from the outer edges. Asters, phlox, aubretia, hostas, ornamental grasses, herbs such as sage, thyme and lemon balm, and many rockery plants all respond well to dividing at this time of year. Once replanted, cover the soil with compost to encourage fresh root growth and help insulate plants during winter. Some plants dislike disturbance, Peonies resent being moved, gerberas are best left until spring, and some South African shrubs and plants, leucodendrons, proteas, and banksia don't seem to do well after shifting. Cut back all the dahlias and dug out and divide some for planting in late spring, where summer colour is needed. Put labels with each clump to know the colours. Put in cardboard boxes and place in a dry shed, then fill the gaps with winter-flowering annual wallflowers, poppies, primulas, pansies, polyanthus, snapdragons, and forget-me-nots, which will slowly establish now and reward with cheerful blooms toward the end of winter. A highlight plant in a dull garden: A few years ago, I planted small clumps of the variegated iris. This iris is not grown for its insignificant blue flower but for its interesting green and white striped leaves. I had mine mass planted under standard iceberg roses, and they made a wonderful show. The clumps became large quickly, but are easy to divide and plant to break up dark green areas. Erica's are budding well, ready to burst into winter colour, the ground cover variety a wonderful ground covers for low maintenance gardens. Trim the spent flowers off erica's that flowered through the summer months to keep them compact. They will put out fresh new green growth through the winter and keep fertiliser away from erica's they do not like lime, dry soil, full sun is what the require. I shifted the trays of plant cuttings I have growing into a light, warm spot for them to continue growing well over winter. They will need dryer soil from now on so I will water them less often and always at the start of the day, then re-pot them in the Spring. Rose flowering is coming to an end, but spent blooms should be left on bushes for now, allowing hips to form and harden the wood before winter pruning in July. Container-grown buxus can also be repotted if pot-bound, as they tolerate root reduction well. Lawns remain green after autumn rain, although growth will soon slow. Lime can be applied before the first frosts while the soil is still warm and moist. Acid-loving moss and weeds are often a sign that soil pH is too low, and lime will improve growing conditions for spring growth. vegetables: With the damp ground allowing slugs to perform at their best, it's a struggle to grow small veg seedlings right now. Sharp gravel, crushed eggshells or dry sawdust will deter them a little, and they find sneaky places to hide until dark, when no birds are about. I find it best to grow seedlings in pots to promote growth before planting out, as slugs and snails seem to prefer small plants. Then try spraying with fish emulsion to fool them into thinking plants are protein rather than veg.Garlic planting can begin anytime from late May through August in warm, free-draining soil that has recently been limed. Plant large cloves around 5cm deep and 20cm apart. Fruit: Apples are ripening well after a good season. Pick fruit for storage before it becomes overripe. Continue planting strawberry runners into raised, well-drained beds enriched with compost. Bare-root fruit trees will soon begin arriving in garden centres, making now the perfect time to prepare planting sites with compost and manure. Winter planting allows roots to establish before spring growth begins and reduces planting stress. Cheers, Linda.

Time to plant out strawberry runners.

Gardening in Waitaki May 13th May 2026

The chill of late autumn is noticeable now in early mornings and nights here in North Otago, but there is still enough warmth in the ground for plants to continue growing steadily. There is still plenty to do in the garden, and these crisp sunny days make it a rewarding time to be outside preparing for the seasons ahead.Compost season is well underway, and my ready compost is disappearing quickly as it is shovelled generously over cleared garden beds in preparation for winter. Pea straw was used to follow in my past large garden, but where I am now, the wind would not allow it to stay put.  Some gardeners will still be waiting for the last of the leaves to fall before finishing the mulching. Autumn leaves are far too valuable to waste, and there are many ways to make use of them. Some are being added to compost heaps while others are being turned into leaf mould, which is wonderful for improving soil texture and adding humus back into the garden. To make leaf mould, shred leaves first with the lawn mower, as whole leaves break down far too slowly. Layer them into bins or large bags with a sprinkling of nitrogen-rich material, such as grass clippings or a handful of urea, between layers, and water lightly as you build. Left over winter, this will break down beautifully and be ready for spring use. My well-grown seedlings have been potted up before colder nights arrive. They have come directly from seed trays, frost cloth will soon cover them and will likely remain in place until spring. Winter colour for the garden: Calendulas, primulas, pansies, polianthus, ornamental kale, Leptospermum, azaleas, daphnes, Chimonanthus praecox (winter sweet)  and those special leucodendrons.Dahlias: Reminding you once again, cut back, dig, and divide for late spring planting. Label clumps by colour and store in cardboard boxes in a dry place. Fill gaps with winter annuals, such as wallflowers and poppies.  Ericas: Trim spent summer flowers to maintain compact growth. Avoid lime and fertiliser; they thrive in dry, sunny soil. Ground cover varieties are low-maintenance and will now be budding for winter colour. Bearded Iris and Freesia: Keep compost and mulch away from exposed rhizomes and bulbs to prevent baking in the sun.  Perennials: Divide overgrown clumps to fill gaps or pot up for later planting. Cover beds with compost to encourage root growth and insulate through winter.  Peony Roses: Plant or shift this month, taking care not to damage tuber shoots. Cuttings: Move trays to a light, warm spot for winter growth and water less frequently, at the start of the day.Pot Plants: Reduce watering and move away from cold glass as night temperatures drop.  Lawns are finally slowing down, and bare patches are best left now until spring sowing. Lime and gypsum can still be applied to help soften compacted clay soils and improve lawn condition over time. Grass grubs will be slowing down the eating of grass roots now, as larvae, they eat to fuel their transition into the brown night beetle. This process takes about 12 months. The most damage done to lawns is from February to May. Rake out patches of dead lawn ready for re-sowing now on the coast while the ground is still warm, or wait until spring. An earth-friendly way to eradicate grass grub is nematodes. Beneficial Cseek out and kill grubs and other soil-inhabiting insects. They come on a sponge (invisible to the naked eye) that you soak in water, put in a sprayer and spray your dirt or lawn. They will multiply over time and continue to kill grubs. A retail outlet for nematodes for sale is: https://www.bioforce.co.nz/products/nematop.html Vegetable garden: Plant snow peas, pak choi, kale, broccoli, cauliflower, and beetroot. Seeds: Sow baby spinach in kitchen window containers for winter greens. This is the last month to sow carrot seeds; use onion sets rather than seeds now for better results. Clear finished summer vegetables or dig in leafy crops. Add manure-enriched compost and lime to heavily cropped soil, and leave the soil exposed to winter frost. Fruit: Apples and late peaches will still be ripening on trees to enjoy. Leave winter fruit tree pruning for July through August, or before buds begin to swell. Not all fruiting plants require an annual prune, and some new dwarf cultivars of apples, peaches, apricots and nectarines have been bred to eliminate the need for annual pruning and maintenance. I will go further into this closer to the time. Cheers, Linda

Gardening in Waitaki May 6th 2026

With autumn more settled and fallen leaves gathering quickly, they may feel like a chore, but they are one of the most valuable resources in the autumn garden. Wet leaves from heavy dews, already beginning to break down, make excellent mulch; they enrich the soil naturally. While each tree sheds leaves to nourish its own roots, lawns should be kept clear, as heavy leaf cover blocks light and weakens grass. Instead, return them to the tree bases where they belong. As gardens transition into winter, layer compost generously as beds are cleared. Hold off on pea straw mulch until leaf fall is complete, and ensure soil is well watered before applying. I have been potting on seedlings and cuttings before growth slows. Newly potted plants will now require frost cloth protection overnight, removed during the day and replaced at dusk. Also, remove water trays from pots—soil will stay damp through winter, and excess water can lead to root rot or freezing. This is an ideal time to rejuvenate perennial beds. Lift and divide overgrown clumps, replanting only the youngest, healthiest growth from the outer edges. Many plants respond well to this, including asters, phlox, aubretia, hostas, grasses, and herbs such as sage and thyme. Rockery plants can also be divided now. Once replanted, apply a generous layer of compost to encourage root development and help insulate plants through winter. Deadhead dahlias, petunias, and geraniums to extend flowering until frost. Remove spent annuals and prepare beds for winter colour with primulas, polyanthus, pansies, and violas. Watch for self-sown seedlings like foxglove and lupin—these can be transplanted now to establish before winter. Hellebores (winter roses) should have old foliage removed to eradicate aphids that want to winter over and to showcase developing buds. In colder inland areas, leave some growth for frost protection, removing it later once the new growth has hardened. A light liquid feed can boost flowering if needed. Peonies are available for planting now. Choose roots with at least three eyes and plant shallowly, about 5–7cm deep, in a sunny, well-drained position. Once established, they can thrive undisturbed for decades. As I have mentioned before Lilies can now be lifted, divided, and replanted. Handle bulbs carefully, keeping fleshy scales intact and never allowing them to dry out. Cut old stems rather than pulling them away to prevent rot. Plant bulbs on a base of river sand and cover with compost enriched with blood and bone. May is the right time to plant tulip bulbs. Position bulbs at least 20cm deep in well-drained soil, ideally in a sunny or east-facing spot. Pre-chilling bulbs in the fridge for several weeks can improve performance, especially if soil warmth lingers. Lift lower branches on large trees to increase light on underplanting, trim new growth on wisterias, and if needing to trim hedges, do it now so the undergrowth can harden before the coldest months. Lawns: autumn sowing can still be done, with cooler conditions helping retain moisture for quick germination. vegetable garden: growth continues steadily after autumn rain. Harvest pumpkins and corn, allowing pumpkins to cure before storage. Continue planting winter crops such as cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, kale, spinach, beetroot, and broad beans. This is also the final opportunity to sow carrots and establish onion sets for best results. Herbs: rosemary, sage, thyme, and rocket, will establish well if planted now. Fruit remains abundant: Apples should be picked for storage before birds take their share. Feijoas are ripening, along with NZ cranberries (Ugni), figs, walnuts, and hazelnuts—plenty to harvest and enjoy. In the berry patch, continue planting strawberries in raised, well-composted beds. Prune raspberries after fruiting by cutting back spent canes, allowing new growth to develop for next season. Cheers, Linda

Gardening in Waitaki April 29th 2026

Autumn splendour is all around North Otago now, with gardens glowing in rich golds, reds and russets as leaves continue to fall thick and fast, and there is much to do as we bed the garden down for winter. This is prime compost-making time. Layer autumn leaves, grass clippings, soft garden waste, finished compost, and stable or poultry manure to build rich organic compost full of natural nutrients. Leaves can also be turned into valuable leaf mould, either heaped in bins or packed into bags to break down into humus, which improves soil. Piling leaves directly onto garden beds can create a rain shield and harbour unwanted pests over winter. It is better to spread gathered leaves over the lawn, shred them with the lawn mower, then use them as mulch around the garden along with lawn clippings. The more we put back into the soil, the more the garden benefits. The recent rain, with soil still warm, makes it a perfect time to sow spring-flowering seeds. Seedlings raised now and carried through winter are often stronger than bought spring punnets. Sweet peas, calendula, lupins, alyssum and cornflowers can be sown outdoors, while pansies, violas, primulas and snapdragons can be started under cover. Hardy annuals for winter colour can be fed now for a good start. Acid-loving plants such as rhododendrons, camellias and azaleas appreciate pine needles, rotted sawdust or coffee grounds, while dried blood gives winter performers such as primulas, pansies and cyclamen a welcome boost. Divide primulas and violas to fill gaps in borders, and on the coast, give evergreen hedges one final light tidy. The ground is also perfect right now for planting spring bulbs that will bring your garden back to life after a long, drab winter. Bulbs are a wonderful investment as they multiply annually. There are many bulbs on offer in garden centres right now. If you are lucky enough to have large clumps of bulbs, now is the time to divide them and plant them in another area of your garden or pass them on to others. Most bulbs do best in full sun (at least 6 hours a day of direct sun) and well-drained soil. Spots where water pools during the winter will cause the bulbs to rot. Generally, the hole should be two to three times deeper than the bulb is tall. So if you have a 3-inch-tall bulb, dig a hole 6 to 9 inches deep. Plant ranunculus and anemones now, after soaking the corms overnight, and top dress established lilies with compost and blood and bone. Continue deadheading dahlias until frost blackens them, then cut them down carefully leaving 2 to 4inch stem above the soil, they need only to be lifted if winters are harsh and ground really freezes or soil where planted remains wet. Mulching with straw protect tubas during winter. Roses are best left now to form hips and harden their wood, although in warm sheltered spots, a final deadhead may still bring late blooms. Disease on late roses is natural at this stage and often not worth battling. Hydrangeas are still offering glorious autumn colour, and this is an excellent time to take hardwood cuttings. A few cuttings taken now can become splendid shrubs in seasons to come. Lawns are slowing but can still benefit from lime to sweeten the soil over winter. Avoid walking on wet lawns to prevent compaction, and if grass grub is a problem this is the last chance to treat before winter. Vegetable garden, keep sowing broad beans, peas, spinach, silver beet, beetroot, cabbage, broccoli and turnips while the ground holds warmth. Rhubarb can be lifted and divided, and herbs cut back, dried and stored for winter use. Pumpkins should be well-ripened now; harvest when they sound hollow leaving the stem end intack and cure them in a dry, sheltered place. Fruit: Strawberries may still be fruiting, runners can be pegged down for replacements, and fruit trees in bags can be planted now to establish through winter. Hold off pruning fruit trees until true winter dormancy, apart from removing dead wood from stone fruit. Cheers Linda.

Gardening in Waitaki April 21st 2026

We’ve certainly had a sharp taste of winter temperatures this week, hardly inviting weather for long days in the garden. Still, autumn is putting on a magnificent

display, with colours deepening beautifully as the month progresses, more than making up for the chill in the air.Now is the time to begin bedding the garden down for winter. Cut back tired summer perennials and annuals that have become long and straggly, clearing space for a generous layer of compost around each plant, followed by perhaps pea straw mulch.  Soft green waste can go straight into the compost heap, while tougher, woody material is best shredded or discarded. The more organic matter you return to the soil, the more your garden will reward you in the seasons ahead. Hydrangeas are still putting on a splendid show—leave them be for now, but it’s an excellent time to take hardwood cuttings for future plants. Remember, patience is needed, as these take a few seasons to develop into substantial bushes. There is still time along the coast to sow seeds outdoors and grow them on to pricking-out size before growth slows. Seedlings potted up now and nurtured through winter will be far stronger than spring-bought alternatives. Outdoors, sow alyssum, aquilegia, calendula, cornflower, lupins, statice, stock, and sweet peas. Under cover, sow antirrhinums, dianthus, pansies, violas, poppies, scabious, sweet William, polyanthus, primrose, and primulas. Evergreen shrubs (excluding conifers) are best planted now or left until after winter, while deciduous trees and conifers cope better with colder conditions. Get hedges trimmed before frost arrives, as this will likely be the last cut until spring. Continue cutting back plants like large daisies and lavatera on the coast to encourage fresh flowering. Lift gladioli once the foliage dries off, dry the corms thoroughly, dust them with flowers of sulphur, and store in paper bags or old pantyhose, never plastic.  Leave peony roses undisturbed; simply cut back dead tops and dispose of them to avoid any carried-over disease. Spring is the time to divide if needed. Roses will benefit from a feed now, as garden soil is depleted of nutrients by autumn; unfed roses will weaken and lack the strength for lush flowering next year. Firstly, remove all dropped leaves under rose bushes, then apply aged stable manure, along with rose fertiliser for the best results. Lawns should begin to slow down. Apply lime now to improve soil condition by spring, and avoid walking on wet grass to prevent compaction. Watch for grass grub. If birds are pecking and patches are browning, treat promptly, as May is your last chance before grubs finish eating roots and burrow deep. vegetable garden, protect pumpkins from frost. Around Anzac Day is the traditional time to plant broad beans, if you haven’t yet. Sow spinach, snap peas, Brussels sprouts, and spring onions.  Grow veg seedlings on to a good size before planting, because many slugs will be active while the soil is wet. Protect seedlings from slugs with a coarse mulch layer that can deter slugs by making movement difficult. Slug Collars: Small collars made from plastic or metal placed around individual plants act as protective fences. Beer traps attract slugs to fermenting yeast: Bury shallow containers filled with beer so their rims are at soil level. Slugs crawl in and drown. Replace the beer every few days to avoid foul odours. Finish harvesting potatoes and store them in a cool, dry place. Fruit: Mature fruit can be harvested and ripened spread out in a warm, sunny spot befor storing. Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in Waitaki April 14th 2026

Autumn is putting on a magnificent display around Lake Aviemore and throughout the Waitaki Valley. There is a natural rhythm to this season, growth slowing, energy retreating, and the garden preparing to rest. By working alongside these changes, tidying, composting, planting, and protecting, we set the garden up for a strong and healthy return in spring. Now it’s time to focus on some serious garden tidying before winter sets in. There is plenty of cutting back to be done, along with light hedge trimming. Compost heaps will benefit from nitrogen-rich activators such as coffee grounds, hen manure or comfrey leaves to speed decomposition. Oak and magnolia leaves, which are slower to break down, can be burned and the ash added back into the compost. Time for seed saving, with many plants naturally dispersing seed. Collect and store in paper bags once fully matured. Perennials like daylilies can be divided now, and bearded iris should have rhizomes exposed to the sun to bake and reduce disease. Rose garden: Remove and dispose of all diseased foliage from both plants and the surrounding ground to prevent the carryover of black spot, rust, and mildew. A lime sulphur spray next month will assist with winter clean-up. Shrubs such as camellias, rhododendrons, and azaleas can be shifted now, but remember to reduce the top growth by about a third to compensate for root disturbance. Larger shrubs are best trenched now and moved in late winter. Potted shrubs will benefit from feeding, particularly with acid fertiliser for those that prefer it. While many of us are busy raking leaves, it’s worth remembering that nature’s intention is for leaf fall to nourish the soil and trees. Leaves make excellent compost when layered with green waste, manure, and finished compost. Add moisture as you build, then cover the heap with whatever you have on hand—old carpet, polythene, or similar—to retain heat and encourage breakdown. Avoid leaving heavy layers of leaves on garden beds, as they can shelter overwintering pests such as snails and slugs, particularly those beneath plants like hellebores, heuchera, and hostas. Thick leaves also act as a rain barrier on the soil. Rake leaves onto the lawn and run over them with your lawn mower, then they can be returned as garden mulch. Lawns begin to slow as conditions dry and cool. Raise mower blades to avoid stressing the grass and reduce traffic where possible. De-thatching can be done if needed, and autumn remains an excellent time to sow new lawns or repair thin patches while the soil still holds warmth. A light dressing of sifted compost worked into the surface will improve both heavy and sandy soils. Fruit, continue harvesting late apples, pears, and peaches, taking care to store only undamaged fruit. Feijoas are a seasonal highlight, continuing to ripen into winter and offering both flavour and nutritional benefits. Apply clean-up sprays to fruit trees showing signs of disease, and consider a dressing of lime and potash to support next season’s crops. Citrus will benefit from feeding and mulching, while strawberry beds should be tidied, with runners removed and a few strong ones potted up for renewal. Vegetable gardens are winding down, but there is still time to sow green crops to improve soil structure and fertility. Clear spent crops before they go to seed and dig them back into the soil as humus. Continue planting winter vegetables, and harvest pumpkins before frost, allowing them to finish ripening in a warm, dry place. In glasshouses, reduce watering as growth slows.

Plant up strawberry runners.

Gardening in Waitaki April 14th 2026

What an early introduction to winter wet received this week! Autumn is a time for reflection and planning. With cooler mornings and brilliant colour all around, April reminds us that although growth slows, the garden is far from sleeping; it is quietly preparing for the promise of spring. Once outside again, it will be back to the inevitable autumn task, leaves, leaves, and more leaves. While the workload can feel endless, the reward is a garden glowing in magnificent shades of gold, red, and orange. Truly, autumn is a second spring, when every leaf becomes a flower.

b>Most fallen leaves make excellent compost, although oak and walnut leaves take much longer to break down. I did compost some mixed with grass clippings, but I burned the excess in my trusty drum, returning the ash to compost heaps later. Keep layering compost bins with leaves, grass clippings, manure, and garden waste, watering between layers to encourage decomposition while warmth remains in the soil. Recent damp conditions have helped retain moisture in the ground, giving shrubs such as hydrangeas, camellias, rhododendrons, and azaleas an opportunity to harden wood before winter. Hydrangea blooms are now turning rich autumn tones, perfect for picking and drying by hanging upside down or leaving in a vase until the water evaporates. Leucadendron, protea, nandina, and nerines also provide excellent winter colour and long-lasting cut flowers. Nerines are now taking centre stage, sending up elegant flowers on tall stems and thriving in well-drained positions with little water during dormancy. Give winter flowering shrubs a dressing of compost as many are already forming buds. Only feed plants preparing to flower now; most others are slowing growth ahead of winter rest. On the coast, prune perennial wallflowers, mignonette, dentata lavender, and marguerite daisies to encourage fresh winter growth. Inland gardeners are better to take hardwood cuttings and overwintering them under protection, as frosts often damage established plants. Divide violas and clumping primulas now — one plant quickly becomes many and provides beautiful edging for spring displays. Trim spent flower heads from hebes to prevent legginess, Ranunculus corms are still available and well worth planting. Soak overnight before planting claws downward in groups for best effect. Lilies may be lifted only if overcrowded, keeping roots moist at all times, and replanted deeply, about three times the bulb height, except Madonna lilies, which prefer shallow planting and limy soil. Autumn remains an excellent time to plant evergreen shrubs and give hedges a final light trim. Small shrubs, conifers, camellias, azaleas, and rhododendrons transplant well now while soils are still warm. Peonies can also be moved once foliage yellows, planting crowns shallowly with buds just 5 cm below soil level. Lawns are responding well to cooler nights and renewed moisture. Repair grass grub damage by raking and resowing. Treat compacted areas with gypsum and fine compost while the soil is soft and moist. During the rain is a perfect time to spread. Vegetable Garden: Green manure crops are valuable in vacant beds, oats are ideal for autumn sowing, while blue lupins add nitrogen. Protect young veg seedlings from birds with raised netting. Broad beans can be planted now, adding a little potash beneath the seeds to help prevent rust. Leeks, carrots, spinach, snap peas, and spring onions can all be sown or planted. Remove shading from glasshouses and reduce watering as growth slows. Harvest pumpkins, always leaving the stalk attached to prevent rot. b>Fruit Garden: Apples, crabapples, quince, grapes, feijoa, and late peaches are ready for harvest and preservation. Pick surplus apples slightly unripe for storage, but leave some to ripen naturally on the tree. Gather walnuts promptly before pests find them, spreading them out in a dry, airy space so the green husks can dry and separate naturally. Feed citrus trees generously now with manure, seaweed, rock phosphate, dolomite, or citrus fertiliser, followed by mulch Cheers, Linda

Gardening in Waitaki April 1st 2026

Autumn in the Oamaru public Gardens:

Easter again soon and day light saving again, Autumn is truly settling in now, a season of tidying, feeding the soil, and preparing the garden quietly for the months ahead. After a slow seasonal start caused by welcome autumn rains, trees are finally beginning to show their autumn colour. Gardens will be gently shifting pace now as growth slows and plants prepare for the dormant months ahead. While my Easter egg hunters are fewer these days as they become teenagers, there will still be a couple eagerly awaiting Nana’s Easter eggs, a reminder that some traditions never fade. Normally, at this time of year, we avoid encouraging too much new growth, allowing plants to harden before winter. However, coastal gardens can still carry lovely seasonal colour. With warmth still in the soil and moisture levels good, compost heaps should now be working efficiently. Stable and poultry manures contain most of the essential plant nutrients — particularly nitrogen, phosphate and potash, in a natural organic form. Not all plants require the same balance, however. Fresh animal manure can cause overly lush growth in legumes such as peas, beans and lupins due to excess nitrogen. Allowing manure to break down fully in the compost heap before use provides a more balanced nutrient supply. The only growth promotion needed before winter would be when planting plants to take you through the winter. Dried blood is High in nitrogen and is an easy way to replenish tired soil before planting those cool-season plants. Some plants dislike phosphate fertilisers altogether. Leucadendrons, proteas, banksias and ericas and callunas prefer a simple organic leaf mulch rather than garden fertilisers. Primula and viola clumps can now be lifted and divided to create new borders or fill gaps at the front of garden beds. Rhododendrons, azaleas and camellias will benefit from feeding with an acid fertiliser specially formulated for them, encouraging strong bud development for spring flowering. Continue deadheading dahlias until frost collapses the plants. Once blackened by frost, cut stems back carefully, ensuring thick hollow stems are not left open where rain can enter and rot the tubers. Dahlias sitting in wet soil after heavy rain are prone to rot, so lift and store tubers in a dry place at season’s end if drainage is poor. A topping of pea straw provides useful winter protection for those left in the ground. Autumn roses have suffered with recent rain. Remove rotting blooms but resist heavy pruning, as roses now need to set seed and harden their wood before winter. In warm, sheltered sunny spots, one final deadheading may still encourage a late flush of flowers. Lawns remain actively growing and grass clippings collected in full catchers make excellent mulch around the garden. New lawns sown now should germinate well while soil temperatures remain mild. Cover newly seeded or patched areas with netting or frost cloth to prevent birds from disturbing seed. vegetables: Spinach and snap peas can be sown now for cool-season harvests. Harvest pumpkins promptly and always leave the stalk attached to prevent rot during storage. Harvest pumpkins promptly and always leave the stalk attached to prevent rot during storage .Divide rhubarb crowns and replant into soil enriched with generous amounts of compost. fruit: Fruit continues to fall heavily from trees. Apples and quince and late peaches are plentiful, and after the recent rain it is an ideal time to repay fruit trees with applications of lime, manure, rock phosphate, liquid seaweed or vermi liquid around the root zone. Prune tamarillo trees hard once the last fruit has been picked. Staggered pruning can help stagger next season’s crop. Prepare strawberry beds by building soil levels with compost and mulch, removing old leaves and runners, and potting up only strong runners growing close to the mother plant to establish new fruiting plants or fill gaps. Cheers, Linda