Gardening in Waitaki October 23rd 2026

Labour Weekend weather usually brings on wonderful garden growth, with the last of the blossom trees in full bloom. The beautiful spreading prunus shimidsu sakura and upright Prunus Kanzan, with its bright pink flowers, are gracing many North Otago gardens. As usual, strong winds can turn the Kanzan blossom into pink snow, and the much-needed spring rain has helped soak our dry ground. Plant, plant, plant! There will never be a better time in nature to plant shrubs, evergreen trees, flowers and seeds. Seedlings grown from seed, lupins, Oriental poppies, delphiniums, penstemons and nasturtiums, benefit from being potted individually until their roots are established and the plants are stronger. Sunflowers and other strong-rooted plants can be started in peat pots and planted out pot, and all once roots have developed. Wildflower patches can become overrun with weeds before seeds germinate. Try clearing the ground, laying down well-soaked newspaper and covering it with potting mix before sowing. This helps suppress weed growth while giving wildflowers a chance to establish. Cut back spring-flowering shrubs once flowering finishes, and trim spent growth from ericas and callunas to encourage fresh growth and prevent them becoming woody. Cut back aubrieta for another flowering and remove spent hellebore flowers to show off their attractive foliage. Polyanthus have provided wonderful winter colour; cut them back and move them to a shady spot until they can be planted out again next late winter. Roses are budding up nicely now that nights are warmer. Keep up deep watering and feeding, using slow-release fertiliser to supply nutrients as plants are watered. Greenfly on new bud tips can often be washed away with a strong hose. Compost: My compost is warming up again after winter; it will provide wonderful material full of worms and beneficial invertebrates. Start building new compost heaps now, layering soft growth, seedless weeds, brown stalks, aged manure, kitchen scraps ( no meat), soil and old compost. Keep the layers moist and build directly on the ground so worms can work their way up. By autumn, you should have useful compost ready for a tired garden. Ponds: Water lilies can be planted in baskets lined with sphagnum moss or a suitable soft liner, using garden soil and slow-release fertiliser. Cover the surface with a thick layer of shingle to hold the soil in place and reduce nutrients leaching into the pond. As water warms, goldfish begin breeding by depositing eggs among oxygen weed. Moving larger fish temporarily can give the tiny fish a better chance of surviving. Lawns: Aerate, feed and sow seed where needed. Apply powdered fertiliser when rain is expected or water it in well to prevent scorching. Gypsum may help improve clay soil, while adding fine compost helps build soil structure. Vegetables: Plant pumpkins, squash and corn, preparing generous amounts of compost and aged manure for pumpkins to ramble through. Peppers, tomatoes and cucumber plants can be planted in glasshouses or tunnel houses, with support provided as they grow. Tomatoes will grow quickly; early plants affected by cold snaps should recover as temperatures rise. Flowers that attract bees and other beneficial insects are valuable companions in the vegetable garden. Carrots and leeks are a worthwhile combination. Herbs: Harvest herbs before flowering to prevent them from going to seed. I dry surplus herbs laid between sheets of news paper with saliotaped edges and leave in a warm, airy place until completely crisp before storing in paper bags or glass jars. Fruit: Raspberries and strawberries need plenty of sunshine and water to produce sweet fruit. Keep manure-enriched compost around rhubarb, as dry, hard soil can result in stringy, tough stems. Watch fruit trees and grapes for fungal diseases and treat when necessary. Last chance to put codling moth traps in place. Mulch fruit trees with unsprayed grass clippings, extending out towards the drip line, to help retain moisture while the fruit develops. A lot of springtime happenings are taking place in Waitaki: Community Garden courses, Garden tours and even a pop-up Art Gallery in our recreation centre as a fun raiser on the 1st of November. Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in Waitaki 13th October 2026

Cut back winter growth on gaura plants.

Unpredictable, changing spring weather in Waitaki, but every day brings something new and beautiful in the garden. Fragrant lilacs, peony roses, and sweet peas provide colour and scent, while kōwhai flowers are delighting the birds. Shrubs and flowers: If rhododendrons, azaleas or camellias need moving, do so immediately after flowering, before new season growth begins. Prune spring-flowering shrubs once they have finished flowering, removing up to a third of the growth if they need reshaping. Cut back ericas and callunas after flowering to encourage fresh growth and prevent them becoming woody. Trim aubretia to encourage another flush of flowers, and remove spent hellebore flowers to prevent unwanted seedlings. Leave a few seed heads if you wish to raise more plants. Cut winter growth back on gaura plants to obtain fresh new growth. Plant now while so much is on offer: Geraniums and pelargoniums thrive in sunny positions, while fuchsias, hydrangeas and many native plants appreciate afternoon shade. Sun-loving summer annuals provide colourful gap-fillers. Nature never leaves bare ground for long, so get in first! The spring soil is warming, making this an ideal time to plant what you love and enjoy a garden full of colour through summer. Mulch and Feed roses with compost and slow-release fertiliser, and maintain deep watering. Foliar feeding on fresh leaves is also beneficial. Watch for aphids on new rose growth and remove them by hand when practical, before numbers build up. I have been potting seedlings into individual containers to establish strong roots before planting out. Sunflowers and delphiniums are best sown and planted in peat pots, so roots can grow undisturbed when planted out. Keep an eye on hostas, as slugs and snails love their tender new leaves. Slugs will find damp homes nearby under garden waste. Remove lower leaves to make it harder for them to climb up them, and water when needed in the morning, leaving the ground and leaves dry at night when slugs are about. Repot container plants that have been in the same mix for three or four years, replacing old potting mix and checking their roots. Root-bound ornamental buxus can be root-pruned and replanted in fresh mix; I reduce the compacted roots with a sharp spade. Lawns, mulching, and feeding: With a potentially hot, dry summer ahead, mulching now is one of the best things you can do for a struggling lawn. Weed-free compost helps retain moisture, shade roots, and improves soil structure as it breaks down. Gypsum also helps improve clay soils, although it is not a substitute for organic matter or good drainage. Leave the catcher off now and then to add humus. Feed lawns when rain is expected to wash fertiliser in. When sowing a new lawn, sow thickly to help crowd out annual weeds. Many annual weeds in new grass will eventually disappear with regular mowing Vegetables: This is the time to plant, plant, plant! Sow beans, peas, corn, beetroot, radishes, lettuce, courgettes, cucumbers and other summer vegetables. Pumpkins and squash need plenty of space to ramble, so prepare a generous area with compost and well-rotted manure. Tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers and basil benefit from the warmth of a glasshouse or tunnel house. Support tomatoes with strings or stakes as they grow. Mound soil around potato plants as they grow to encourage good crops. No-dig gardens will need new layers of compost and straw. Companion planting can help attract beneficial insects and discourage some pests. Nasturtiums may draw caterpillars away from vegetables, while marigolds and tagetes attract hoverflies that feed on aphids. Mexican tagetes are traditionally used around brassicas to help deter some pests. Basil grows well alongside tomatoes, and garlic, chives and parsley can be planted near roses. Dill attracts bees and other beneficial insects, while carrots and leeks make useful companions because of their differing aromas. Carrot fly is active when carrots are thinned. Avoid leaving pulled seedlings near the rows, as their scent will attract them. Fruit trees and berries: Watch fruit trees and grapes for fungal diseases, treating affected plants early with a suitable organic fungicide. If codling moth has been a problem, put traps in place before fruit develops. The moth attacks apples, pears, quinces, crab apples and some stone fruit. Once the caterpillar enters the fruit, it is difficult to control. Remove fallen and damaged fruit, and check traps regularly. (Codling moth traps can now be purchased if not familiar with making them.) Check apple trees for woolly aphid and feijoas, apples and pears for bronze beetles that are associated with dry conditions. Water and Mulch beneath fruit trees, extending towards the drip line, to conserve moisture. Strawberries and berry canes will flower and fruit quickly in sunny positions; gooseberries tolerate some shade, while blueberries need acidic, well-drained soil free of lime. If your garden soil is unsuitable, grow them in large pots using an appropriate acidic potting mix. Keep rhubarb well supplied with moisture and compost to prevent dry, stringy stalks. Cheers, Linda

Gardening in Waitaki October 6th 2026

October is bringing plenty of spring colour to Waitaki gardens. Despite strong winds and the occasional cold snap, growth is staying fresh with warm ground and heavy dews. Rhododendrons, tulips and the beautiful bright pink Prunus Kanzan are taking centre stage. Weeds are growing strongly now, particularly convolvulus, couch, biddy-bid and clover. Remove or dig them out before they set seed. If spraying is unavoidable, be extremely careful around roses, as hormone sprays will severely deform their foliage. Never spray on a windy day. The ground is now warm and damp, making it an ideal time for planting. Seeds sown in late winter will be ready to prick out, pot on or plant into the garden. Continue sowing seeds for summer flowers, including sunflowers, cosmos, larkspur, nasturtiums, marigolds, delphiniums and alyssum. Sunflowers are particularly rewarding for children, quickly growing into impressive plants. Swan plants can also be planted now in the hope of attracting monarch butterflies. Pansies and violas will continue flowering while the weather remains cool. Deadhead them regularly, and they can be cut back and fed with liquid fertiliser for another flush of flowers. Polyanthus can be lifted once they have finished, cut back and planted in a cool, shady position until next season.Roses are making buds now, so keep food and moisture up to them. Fortnightly foliar feeding and slow-release fertiliser can benefit flowering plants and shrubs. Coastal gardens are generally ahead of inland areas, although late frosts may damage new rose growth. Fortunately, roses recover quickly.Avoid letting rose foliage stay wet overnight, particularly in mild weather, as this encourages mildew. This is a good time to look critically at overgrown front shrub plantings. Removing one or two large shrubs can completely transform a space and create room for new planting, perhaps a maple surrounded by spring bulbs and hydrangeas for summer colour. Lavenders: take tip cuttings now from firm new growth with a little older wood at the base and place the cuttings in damp, sharp crusher dust. Shrub cuttings can be treated in the same way. Prune woody fuchsias back now as they flower on new growth. Tall chrysanthemums benefit from having their first new growth cut back so they remain shorter and more manageable. It is still a little early to trim box hedges; wait until the new growth has firmed. Hydrangeas are pushing out new growth and forming buds, a thick layer of manure-enriched compost and regular moisture will encourage strong growth and a long flowering season. Begonia tubers are beginning to shoot and can be divided into several plants. Because they are hybrids, they cannot be reliably grown from the seeds. To get a plant that looks exactly like the parent, you must use vegetative propagation, such as division or cuttings; each section must be showing active shoots. Fish fertiliser will help keep begonias growing strongly. Geraniums, pelargoniums and fuchsias are now available in retail outlets for planting. Mulching remains one of the best ways to prepare for a potentially dry summer. Straw, spray-free grass clippings and compost help retain moisture, suppress weeds and improve soil structure. On heavy clay, organic matter helps build new soil and hard-working worms. Keep compost heaps working by layering grass clippings, soft hedge clippings, manure, soil and seed-free garden waste. Moisture is important; water heaps and bins occasionally to encourage the heat needed for good decomposition. Lawns are growing lush as are lawn weeds, I have been busy popping them out with my secature blade before they seed. Keep lawn food handy for the next heavy rain, thick growth leaves no gaps for weeds. Vegetables: Potatoes are growing strongly and should be mounded as they come through the soil; frost cloth may still be needed in colder or low-lying areas. After the recent cold snap, tender crops can be started under glass and hardened off before planting outside. For glasshouse tomatoes, prepare the soil with well-rotted compost. Tomatoes need plenty of sunshine, around six to eight hours a day, and good ventilation. Never allow tomato foliage to remain wet overnight, as the glasshouse can become an ideal environment for fungal disease. Fruit: Apple and crab apple blossom is providing plenty of food for bees, and blackcurrants, strawberries and raspberries are looking promising. Keep fruiting plants watered until we receive some decent rain. Cheers, Linda.

Tomatoe plants.

Gardening in Waitaki 1st October 2026

What a cold snap we have had! The sudden temperature drop will have been hard on plants, with seedlings and soft maple foliage damaged. Here on the North Otago coast the ground will be dry, with gardens needing a good soaking to support new growth while we wait for warmer weather. When temperatures rise, seedlings will soon catch up, but small seedlings have little chance of surviving if planted straight into dry ground, so pot on seedlings into punnets or individual pots first so they can establish a strong root system before planting out. Strong-growing plants such as sunflowers and delphiniums can be sown directly into the ground or peat pots. Think about summer colour now: petunias, lobelia, nemesia and salvia can be raised from seed, while cosmos, poppies, larkspur, nigella and annual lavatera can be sown directly into the garden. The later-flowering cherries are taking centre stage, including Prunus Kanzan and Prunus Shimizu Sakura, although strong North Otago winds can quickly strip their blossom. Spring bulbs are still putting on a show; enjoy them, then allow the foliage to die down naturally so it feeds the bulbs for next year's flowers. Large overcrowded clumps can be divided and given away, a sign at the gate saying “Bulbs to give away – bring a spade!” may soon have takers. Now is also a good time to choose plants for the conditions they will actually have to live in. Dry areas, hungry trees and freely draining ground are unsuitable for shallow-rooted plants such as rhododendrons, azaleas, camellias, hydrangeas and hellebores. Consider deeper-rooted, drought-tolerant plants such as euphorbias, agapanthus, buddleias, grasses, geraniums and lupins once established. For damp, shady areas, hydrangeas, hostas, heucheras, and hellebores are useful choices. Aluminium plant and Acanthus mollis can quickly cover difficult shady ground, although it is best suited to areas where its vigorous spreading habit can be contained. Trim winter-flowering ericas. Cut back fuchsias now to encourage fresh flowering wood, and pinch chrysanthemums several times to keep them bushy. Lawns: Give lawns a good feed during rain to give them a good spring start; lawn weeds can be spot-sprayed now before they run to seed. Keep mower blades higher and scatter only unsprayed clippings lightly around the garden as mulch. Veg Garden: Companion planting can be useful in the vegetable garden. Marigolds and tagetes are traditionally planted among vegetables to help deter pests, while nasturtiums can attract caterpillars away from crops. Basil and tomatoes make good companions; carrots and leeks can be planted together, sage around celery may help deter aphids, and dill attracts bees and other beneficial insects. In the glasshouse, prepare well-composted soil for tomatoes, peppers and cucumbers. Good ventilation is essential, particularly overnight, as damp conditions encourage fungal disease. Tomatoes need plenty of sun, around six to eight hours a day, and can be kept growing strongly with regular feeding and watering. Keep mounding potatoes as they grow to keep light out and encourage a larger crop. Corn can now be planted in groups so the plants support each other, with dill nearby to attract bees. Beans, courgettes, cucumbers, lettuce, tomatoes and basil can also be planted, remembering to protect from cold nights. Sow carrot seed thinly and remove thinnings from the garden to prevent attracting carrot fly. Covering rows with shade cloth (which allows the light needed), can also help prevent the female flies from laying eggs. Fruit trees and bushes need moisture while bees are busy pollinating. Mulch with unsprayed grass clippings out to the drip line and consider netting low trees against birds. Check apple trees for woolly aphid, which appears as white furry patches on branches. Cheers Linda.

October is almost here, and the weather remains changeable. October is a busy month, but it is also one of the most rewarding times in the garden. With the soil warming, plants growing rapidly, and everything beginning to flower, there is plenty to enjoy; however, this is also the month when chasing weeds can become a full-time job, so hoeing and hand-pulling while weeds are small is still the best option in planted areas. Couch grass and convolvulus need particular attention; remove every runner and root you can find, as even small pieces left behind will quickly grow and spread. Once the obvious weeds are cleared, cover the soil with a good layer of weed-free compost or mulch to block light and discourage new weed seeds from germinating. Then it is time to plant, plant, plant! Annuals and perennials will grow rapidly now and soon help to leave no room for weeds. If plants, roses and shrubs have not yet been fed, now is the time. Compost enriched with blood and bone and a little sulphate of potash will provide food and encourage flowering and fruiting. Water new plantings regularly, preferably in the morning, allowing the foliage and soil surface to dry before nightfall. Roses benefit from well-rotted stable manure and compost spread around the drip line rather than dug into the soil, as digging can damage roots. Keep manure away from the stems and spread it around the outer feeding roots. If greenfly appear on young rose growth, they can often be removed with your fingers or a strong jet of water. Once leaves have hardened, birds will also help. Hostas are beginning to unfurl their beautiful leaves, so take care not to damage the pointed tips while working around them. Keep them well watered and give a dressing of compost and blood and bone. Slugs will soon be looking for them too; copper tape around containers or suitable sharp barriers can help keep slugs away. Lilies and peonies are pushing upwards now. Put stakes or supports in place before they become too tall, as it is much easier to support them early. They also appreciate consistent moisture. Camellias that have finished flowering can now be trimmed and shaped. If a bush has become dense, remove some branches from the centre to allow more light and air through, encouraging future bud formation. Keep an eye on blossom trees too; any growth appearing from below the graft should be removed. Lawns are growing quickly now that the soil is warming. New grass seed should be sown thickly and kept moist until established. Do not fertilise newly germinated grass, as fertiliser can be too strong. Established lawns can be fed, preferably when rain is expected, rather than during dry sunny weather when fertiliser may scorch the grass. Vegetable Garden: If you have a vacant patch of ground, why not turn it into a vegetable garden? Clear, expose, and loosen the soil, add compost, and make simple edges using whatever is available. Keep weeds down around the outside and start planting what seedlings are available, but Corn, pumpkin, squash and zucchini need to be sown under cover for protection from cold nights. Tomato plants are available, so get greenhouses ready to hold the summer crop and plant when nights become warmer. Carrots can also be sown now; if carrot fly has been a problem, covering carrot rows with insect netting after germination can help protect the crop. Avoid disturbing the plants unnecessarily, as the scent released when carrots are thinned can attract carrot fly.  Herbs. A sunny spot enriched with compost or well-rotted manure makes a wonderful herb garden, and mixed herb pots planted now will grow quickly and make thoughtful Christmas gifts. Fruit trees, raspberries and gooseberries are flowering, so sunshine and plenty of pollinating insects are especially welcome. Blueberries need acidic soil and consistent moisture; a mulch of pine needles can help maintain suitable conditions for both blueberries and strawberries. News from our wonderful Community Gardens: Their next Community Classroom series runs throughout October. Visit our website  https://www.waitakicommunitygardens.nz/   or look out for flyers. Cheers,Linda.

Gardening in Waitaki 15th September 2026

Spring is certainly keeping us guessing, with warm days followed by cold winds. I still have the frost cloth close at hand, but there is plenty to enjoy as the garden bursts into life. Keep an eye on seedlings now. Those that have germinated under protection will need thinning and regular watering. Transplant shallow-rooted seedlings such as pansies and lobelia into trays, while deeper-rooted plants such as lupins and poppies are better given individual pots. Remember to harden off bought bedding plants before planting them outside. It is also time to prepare hanging baskets and containers. Pansies, lobelia, small petunias, plus many of the other shallow-rooted choices available now. Use slow-release fertiliser and water crystals, and never allow containers to dry out completely. Tuberous begonias can now come out of storage. You can divide large tubers, provided each piece has a healthy shoot. Begonias appreciate seaweed or fish-based fertiliser and are best lifted before winter, when soil remains wet. Put stakes in now for delphiniums, peonies, asters and tall phlox, before they get too tall. When in my past large garden, I would be sowing wildflower seeds thickly into containers for later use as colourful gap-fillers in perennial borders. By keeping them deadheaded, they would flower for months. This is a great time for planting and colour combinations. I recently divided a large clump of lamb’s ear, using the individual plants around borders and amongst annuals. Its silver foliage makes a lovely contrast with stronger colours and adds interesting texture. Early blossom is a reminder that now is the perfect time to choose trees for a new garden. Look beyond the flowers and consider eventual height, spread, roots and where leaves and blossom will fall. Large spreading trees need plenty of room, particularly near houses, paths and concrete. Lavenders are making new growth. A little lime and liquid or slow-release fertiliser will help. Trim scruffy plants, but if they have become very woody with weak growth only at the top, it is time to replace them. Lawns damaged by winter or grass grub can have patches worked and resown now to thicken before summer. Sow seed thickly in spring to help beat annual weeds, keep mower blades raised and feed when rain arrives. Vegetable garden: keep planting through September. Lettuce planted every two weeks will provide a succession of crops, while new potatoes planted now will be ready to enjoy for Christmas. Keep broad beans well watered and mound soil around their shallow roots to prevent them drying out. Fruit: I am seeing fruit bush and grape varieties on sale locally, and I feel it is important to choose varieties compatible with North Otago conditions. Blueberry varieties proven for growing here are.... 1. Reka, very productive and vigorous. Early fruiting, generally around late November to late December 2. Nui for exceptionally large berries. If you want two, plant Reka + Nui; they pollinate well together. 3. Bluecrop is also an excellent traditional choice and is vigorous and productive. Blueberries are shallow-rooted and really dislike drying out. They also need acid soil, around pH 4.5–5.5 Plant in a really good organic planting mix, pine-bark/sawdust mulch and deep, regular watering, rather than letting them dry out between waterings. Grape varieties for North Otago outdoor planting: 1. Iona – very hardy, coastal-suitable, and ripens in March–April. 2. Albany Surprise – a dependable outdoor grape with large black, sweet fruit.3. Niagara or Schuyler – good choices for coastal conditions. Plant grapes in the warmest, sunniest, most sheltered position possible, preferably against a north-facing wall. Raspberry canes that do well in North Otago: 1. Aspiring: large, excellent flavour, and crops twice. 2. Heritage: Very reliable, long autumn crop and easy pruning. Autumn Bliss: large fruit and earlier autumn crop. 4. Willamette: Excellent traditional summer raspberry. Blackcurrants are starting to make flowers but can still be thinned to let light in, followed by a compost mulch. Cheers, Linda.

gardening in Waitaki September 10th 2026

A chilly start to the new growing season, but North Otago is looking so pretty, with masses of blossoms and daffodils everywhere. There is plenty to do now, so here are some jobs worth putting at the top of the list. Ponds: Clean out leaves and old growth from pond plants and, if possible, allow the pond to overflow to freshen the water. Water lilies, oxygen weed and water iris will soon be making new growth. Be careful what you plant in a domestic pond. I once had to remove yellow bog iris from my large pond because its mat-forming roots had spread so aggressively they eventually covered half the pond. Yellow bog iris is much better suited to the edges of streams, where its fibrous roots help hold banks together. Bullrushes are another plant best avoided in a small pond as they spread rapidly. While water lilies are still coming into leaf, sections can be divided and repotted. Use a mesh aquatic pot, or make holes in the sides of an ordinary plastic pot. Line it with sacking or woven fabric, fill it about three-quarters with garden soil and add a little slow-release fertiliser in the centre. Plant the lily section, cover the surface with stones or gravel and lower it carefully to the bottom of the pond. Roses: Roses are a priority now. Look for winter dieback and cut affected branches back to healthy new growth. Also check for shoots coming from below the graft. These usually have different leaves and are much more vigorous than the grafted rose. Remove them completely. Once new foliage has hardened, begin your regular rose protection programme if required. Good feeding, adequate moisture and good air circulation are the best starting points for healthy roses. Avoid leaving rose foliage wet overnight, as this encourages fungal problems. Perennials and spring plants: New growth is appearing everywhere. Keep feeding actively growing plants with a liquid fertiliser, although bulbs do not need feeding as they have stored food in the bulbs. Plant the many beautiful spring seedlings now on offer, but remember to harden them off first. Put them outside in a sheltered, lightly shaded position for two or three days before planting. Avoid planting during the heat of the day. Perennials such as phlox, hostas and peonies are pushing through their winter mulch. Divide overcrowded hostas now and stake tall-growing plants like delphiniums before they become too tall. Bearded irises also appreciate attention now; keep their rhizomes partly exposed and avoid high-nitrogen fertiliser. Cyclamen that flowered indoors over winter can now be planted outside in a cool, shady position. With some summer care, they can be brought back inside before winter and will continue flowering for many years. Lawns: Grass is well on the move again and may look uneven and tufty until the first few mowings. Keep mower blades reasonably high while the lawn recovers from winter. Have lawn fertiliser ready for the next good rain, as moisture helps wash it into the soil. If you are repairing bare patches, rough up compacted soil, add a little fine soil and sow grass seed generously. Cover small areas with shade cloth or frost cloth to keep birds away while the seed germinates. For eradicating moss, sulphate of iron is effective. Apply according to the instructions, allow the moss to turn black and then rake it out. If your soil sits over a heavy clay pan, gypsum can help improve the structure and drainage without altering soil pH. Vegetables: Days are lengthening, and soil is beginning to warm, so prepare fine soil for direct sowing and get peas and hardy herbs planted. Start pumpkin, butternut, squash and corn under protection now. Plant early crop potatoes; when shoots emerge, gradually mound soil or compost around them to encourage more productive growth. Keep potatoes well watered during dry spells. Young veg seedlings may still need frost protection at night, particularly in colder parts of North Otago. Salad seedlings can be planted in a warm spot. As it warms, white butterflies and other pests will be looking for new seedlings to deposit their young on, so an early spray of diluted fish emulsion on vegetables, flowering plants and roses can discourage pests with its smell of protein while providing a useful feed. Reapply after rain. Fruit: September is an excellent time to plant deciduous fruit trees while they are just coming out of dormancy. Choose a sunny, sheltered position wherever possible and stake newly planted trees until their roots are well established. Apricots and peaches will soon be in blossom, eagerly waiting for bees and some warm weather. If leaf curl has affected young stone fruit leaves, remove and destroy badly affected leaves so that fresh new growth can replace them. It is too late to spray with copper once blossom buds have burst. Raspberry canes need attention. With summer-fruiting raspberries, older brown canes that have already fruited should have been removed, leaving around six strong green canes per plant. Remove weak and sideways-growing canes and tie the remaining canes neatly into their supports. Mulch well to retain moisture through summer. Autumn fruiting varieties are much easier to prune as they always fruit on the current season's growth. They should have been cut back hard in winter, and all dead and diseased wood removed. Strawberries need plenty of sunshine, regular moisture and good feeding. A fertiliser with extra potassium will encourage flowering and fruiting. Mulching with straw or pine needles helps keep weeds down and fruit clean. Rhubarb is waking up now and will appreciate a generous dressing of well-rotted, manure-enriched compost. This is also a good time to plant other berry bushes while they have the whole growing season ahead to settle in. Raspberry cane pruning.

Spring puning raspberry canes. Cheers, Linda

Gardening in Waitaki 1st September 2026

“Tra La” – spring at last, and what a welcome it is. After winter, every day seems to bring something new into the garden. Sweet peas, ranunculus, anemones and tulips are pushing through. The bees will soon be busy on sunny days, although a cold snap or frost can still remind us that spring has only just begun. There is plenty to do, but after winter, getting back into the garden feels like a privilege. Recent rain softened the ground beautifully, and those strong winds made it necessary to get hoses out. This an ideal time for planting and weeding; weeds are also enjoying the warmer conditions, so hoe or hand-pull them while they are small and before they flower and set seed. While working around the garden, take stock of jobs needing attention. Stake delphiniums before they become too tall, remove excess mulch from iris rhizomes and peony crowns, and cut back old catmint if it has not already been done. Spring feeding: Plants, shrubs and trees will respond to spring feeding. Liquid-feed perennials and bedding plants, while trees and shrubs will benefit from a good general fertiliser. Camellias, azaleas and rhododendrons can show yellowing after winter as shallow-rooted plants use available nitrogen, so give them the acid fertiliser formulated for these plants. Roses are pushing strongly now; if yours have not yet been pruned, do it promptly as the buds are swelling. Seeds and seedlings: Winter-sown pansies and dianthus can be thinned and potted into deeper trays, while lupins, hellebores and Oriental poppies benefit from individual small root pots so they develop a good root ball before planting out. Sow late-spring and summer flowers into seed trays, keeping them raised off the cold ground and protected with glass or clear plastic. A mist spray in the morning is preferable when watering small seedlings. It is also time to think about baskets and pots, using shallow-rooted plants such as pansies, primulas, and dwarf sweet peas until the weather warms enough for petunias, lobelia and begonias.Ornamental grasses can be given their spring haircut, cutting away old seed heads and clearing the dead thatch from around the base. The material can be reused as mulch, compost cover or bedding for animals. Lawns: Give lawns an early spring feed just before, or during, rainfall, or hose if dry so the nutrients are washed in. Keep the mower blades higher as grass comes out of dormancy. If moss is a problem, sulphate of iron can be watered over affected areas; once the moss turns black, rake it out. But remember that moss is usually a symptom of an underlying problem such as waterlogging, shade, compaction or mowing too closely. Vegetables: There is plenty to do in the vegetable garden. On the coast, sow lettuce, spring onions, carrots and peas, and plant leafy vegetables at two-week intervals for a continuous supply. Protect young plants from frost and birds. Frost cloth is perfect as plants still get enough light while hiding seedlings from birds. Prepare ground for potatoes and get seed potatoes planted when the soil is suitable. Do not rush parsnips, beans, corn, pumpkins or squash into cold ground – they need much warmer soil to germinate. Start pumpkin, butternut, squash and corn under protection now to give them the long growing season they need. Fruit: Peach and nectarine buds are at bud burst, so this is the last opportunity to apply copper spray for leaf curl – once the trees are in blossom it is too late. Prune peaches and nectarines now if necessary, remembering that they fruit on wood produced last summer. Gooseberries can also be thinned before the leaves arrive, removing crowded branches and raising the lower “skirt” to make picking easier. Strawberries are beginning to move towards budding and will appreciate a mulch of compost or old animal manure, covered with straw or pine needles. Prune blueberries now  . Remove dead, diseased, weak, crossing, and low-growing branches, keeping the bush open and vase-shaped for good light and airflow. Every 3–4 years, remove one or two oldest canes at ground level to encourage new growth. Overgrown bushes can be cut back hard, but this may sacrifice a season’s crop. Feed with an acid-loving fertiliser, mulch well and water during dry periods. Avoid excess nitrogen, which encourages leaves rather than fruit. Prune Prunus trees on a fine day, removing weak or crossing branches before they become large.  Early spring is also a time to think beyond our own gardens. Native green corridors through Waitaki can soften urban streets, provide habitat and encourage birds and wildlife. The cycle track between Oamaru and Weston and the planting around Cape Wanbrow show what can be achieved when people plant for biodiversity as well as beauty.Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in Waitaki August 21 2026

Spring has arrived in the garden, although recent frosts remind us that winter has not quite released its grip; Blossoms are appearing everywhere, and magnolias are throwing off their woolly coverings and opening their spectacular flowers, while winter sweet and violets fill the garden with fragrance. Keep frost cloth handy for seedlings and tender plants for a little longer. This is a busy time in the garden, with plants waking rapidly and putting their energy into new growth. Feeding is one of the most important jobs now. Roses in particular are moving quickly and should be fed as soon as possible. A good feed now will encourage strong, healthy growth and can reduce the need for spraying later. Most shrubs and perennials will appreciate feeding too, followed by a good soak if the soil is dry. With spring growth beginning, this is the time to regain control of shrubs that have become too large. Soft shrubs encroaching on paths and driveways can be trimmed back now and will soon produce fresh growth. If height is the problem, removing the tall central leader to where the side branches begin can reduce height considerably without destroying the shrub's shape. Remember that spring-flowering shrubs and climbers may already be carrying flower buds, so prune carefully. Delay pruning jasmines until the risk of frost has passed. Roses can still be pruned while they are dormant or just beginning to move, depending on your location and the weather. Feed them now and prepare for pruning once the timing is right. If planting a new rose where a rose has previously grown, replace the old soil with fresh soil from elsewhere in the garden to reduce the chance of transferring rose disease. Magnolias are taking centre stage. They prefer slightly acidic soils and grow beautifully alongside camellias, rhododendrons and azaleas. Choose carefully for the space available: Lavender can be trimmed as new growth appears. Old, woody plants can be cut back hard enough to encourage fresh shoots, although very old bushes may be better replaced. Give new lavender a light trim, some compost and a little lime. Late winter and early spring are also a good time to think carefully about trees for the future. In smaller town gardens, large-growing trees can eventually create considerable work through leaf fall, pruning, shade and invasive roots. Before buying, always read the mature height and width on the label. Smaller trees such as flowering dogwoods, Cercis canadensis ‘Forest Pansy’, crab apples and Robinia ‘Lace Lady’ can provide beauty without the scale of an oak, ash, elm or large maple. For those wanting larger trees in a smaller garden, controlled root-growing systems such as Evergrow planter bags can provide another option, allowing a tree to develop naturally while restricting its ultimate size. There is still time to divide hostas before leaves emerge. Lift established clumps and divide them with a sharp spade, ensuring each piece has good roots and shoots. Dahlias can also be planted now in sunny, well-drained positions; tubers will remain dormant until the soil warms. Sowing seeds under cover. Seedlings sown earlier should now be appearing and can be given a weekly liquid feed. I sow seeds in trays containing compost and soil, with a thin layer of seed-raising mix on top. Cover trays with glass or plastic, but allow air to circulate to prevent dampness and disease. Keep frost cloth handy for young plants. Vegetable gardens are waking too. Prepare beds by digging in weed-free compost and allowing the soil to settle before planting. Shallots, lettuce, beetroot and broad beans can still be planted, with frost protection provided for young plants. Early seed potatoes can be planted, but protect emerging foliage from late frosts. Unused vegetable areas will benefit from a green crop such as mustard, lupins, barley or wheat. Dig it into the soil while it is still lush and green, before the stems become tough and slow to break down. This adds valuable organic matter and helps tired soil. Lawns are beginning to green up after winter. If moss is a problem, it's often a sign of shade, compaction or acidic soil. Sulphate of iron can be used to control moss; once it has blackened, rake it out, aerate the lawn and apply a suitable feed. Adding compost to heavy clay soil lawns will improve the condition and help prepare the lawn for the drier months ahead. Fruit trees and berry bushes will benefit from attention now. Apply a potash-rich fertiliser to encourage flowering and fruiting. Deciduous fruit trees and berry canes should be planted without delay. Thin raspberries by removing old canes that have already fruited, along with weak and excess shoots. Citrus, particularly lemons, appreciate citrus fertiliser and a deep watering. Keep grass and weeds away from trunks and mulch well. Cheers, Linda. Securing Raspberry canes.

Gardening in Waitaki August 12th 2026

As we move further into August, there is a definite feeling that spring is edging ever closer. Along the North Otago coast, frosts will ease as temperatures become milder. Heavy rain has left the ground beautifully soft for spring bulbs to push through quickly, tulips are already showing well, and daffodils, jonquils and other bulbs are racing towards bud. If we do get another sharp cold snap, it will simply hold the buds for a while, although any soft new growth may feel the effects. Gardens are already beginning to brighten with the flowers of early camellias, Rhododendron 'Christmas Cheer' and Prunus autumnalis. Perfume will be drifting through gardens from winter sweet, witch hazel, daphne, boronia, and violets, which is a wonderful reminder that spring is not far away. August is one of the best months for planting trees and shrubs; the soil is moist for roots to establish during spring. Trees take years to reach their full beauty, but every one planted today is an investment for future generations. The damp soil has reminded me how easily many shrubs layer themselves. Viburnums, choisyas, camellias and hydrangeas often drop low branches that naturally form roots where they touch the soil. These rooted sections can be left until well established before being cut from the parent plant and potted up. You can also encourage this by pegging a low branch into the soil after making a slight wound in the bark. Winter pruning continues. Remove old, tired wood from weigelas and spireas, lightly trim prickly berberis, cut buddleias back hard to encourage fresh silvery leaf growth, and clip away all the old foliage from catmint. Wisterias also benefit from attention now. Remove the long whippy leaders that have grown since summer, leaving only the framework required to cover the support. Avoid pruning the short flowering spurs, as these carry this season's blooms. Larger reductions are best left until after flowering. Peony roses should have all last year's stems removed and destroyed, as diseases can overwinter on old growth. Be careful not to damage the bright pink shoots emerging from the crown. Dahlias can also have their old stems removed. If the stems are hollow, bend them over after cutting to prevent rain from collecting inside and rotting tubers. Bearded irises are beginning to move now. Pull back any soil or mulch covering the rhizomes so they are partially exposed, then apply a light dressing of lime and potash to encourage flowering. Avoid nitrogen-rich fertilisers, which promote leaves rather than flowers. Rose pruning should be underway with buds beginning to swell, and the roots becoming active, making this the ideal time to apply rose fertiliser or aged manure around the drip line. Water powdered fertilisers in well, while slow-release products will feed gradually each time it rains. Lawns: The last heavy rain will have highlighted areas where lawns drain poorly. Resist the temptation to walk on saturated lawns, but make a note of any hollows that will need levelling later. Birds busily searching for worms are also helping aerate compacted soil. While the ground remains moist, a light topdressing of compost will add valuable organic matter, particularly on heavy clay soils. Vegetable gardens: Allow wet soils to drain before planting. Garlic and shallots can still be planted into well-prepared ground, while strawberries will establish well now in raised beds, containers or hanging planters. Good drainage remains the key to success. Fruit: Continue pruning gooseberries by removing crossing branches and lifting the lower growth clear of the ground. Any rooted branches can be potted up to produce healthy new plants. Newly planted fruit trees should also be cut back . It seems drastic, but this first pruning encourages a well-shaped tree with fruit that will remain within easy reach for many years to come. And when blossom finally appears, let's hope for plenty of warm sunny days to bring the bees out to do the job they do so well. Cheers, Linda

Gardening in Waitaki August 11th 2026

Wow, what a polar blast we've had this week! North Otago escaped relatively lightly compared with many other parts of Otago. August is always an unpredictable month for gardeners. Just when the soil begins to warm, and spring seems within reach, winter often has one last icy reminder. Even so, each day brings fresh signs of the changing season, with snowdrops, jonquils, early blossom and magnolias bravely standing up to the cold. This is one of the best times to visit garden centres if you are thinking of planting camellias or rhododendrons. Most are now flowering, making it much easier to choose the colours that will complement your garden. Both perform best in semi-shade or areas protected from the hot afternoon sun. I know the cold does not encourage seed sowing, but if sown now in good light, up off the cold ground and protected under glass, you will get them to germinate and grow on for an early start for spring flowering. Seed trays I sowed three weeks ago under glass are showing the first stages of growth. To make expensive seed-raising mix go further, I fill trays with compost and sifted soil, then add a thin layer of seed-raising mix on top.  Roses will benefit from feeding if you haven't already done so because roots are moving and buds are swelling. Aged manure is perfect, slow-release fertilisers are also a good food choice, providing nutrients over many months and help to keep plants healthy and vigorous. This is the time to plant the roses now on offer in Garden centers. Peonies and gladioli can also be planted now, along with Lilies, but those being lifted should be replanted immediately, as their bulbs never truly become dormant and dislike drying out.  Lavenders beginning to show fresh growth can be trimmed now. Older woody bushes can be cut back by about half to encourage fresh shoots lower down, while younger plants need only a light clip. A sprinkle of lime around the base will help maintain the sweet soil lavenders enjoy. If an old lavender has struggled for several seasons, replacing it may be the better option. Hydrangeas are also showing new shoots near the base, signalling that pruning can begin. Remove the stems that flowered last summer back to the second healthy bud from the bottom, leaving the remaining younger stems to produce next season's blooms. Remember, pink hydrangeas prefer alkaline soils while blue varieties require acidic conditions. If your blue hydrangea insists on turning pink, growing it in a large container filled with acidic potting mix is often the most reliable solution. Many climbers are already carrying flower buds, so trim carefully. Hardenbergia (Happy Wanderer) can be cut back after flowering, while jasmine that has been touched by frost is best left until warmer weather confirms which stems have survived. There is still time to divide established hostas before they come into full growth. Lift mature clumps, divide them into several healthy pieces with a sharp spade, and replant immediately. Hostas also make excellent container plants, but remember that emerging leaves are irresistible to slugs, so protect them early with prickly twiggy prunings. Comfrey is one of the garden's most valuable plants. Its deep roots draw nutrients from well below the soil surface and store them in the leaves. Pack chopped leaves into a lidded container and leave them to break down into a dark liquid. Diluted with water, it becomes a nutrient-rich feed high in potassium, ideal for flowering plants, tomatoes and other fruiting crops. Plant comfrey where it has room to spread, as it can become quite vigorous.  Lawns often show patches of moss at this time of year. While products containing sulphate of iron will blacken and kill moss, lasting success depends on correcting the cause. Poor drainage, soil compaction, excessive shade, acidic soil, mowing too closely, or poor fertility can all encourage moss to thrive. Healthy, well-fed lawns that are aerated and mown correctly rarely have serious moss problems. Plan your first spring lawn feed just before steady rain. Vegetable gardens deserve attention now. Dig compost into empty beds and allow the soil to settle before planting. If you're not using a bed immediately, sow a green crop such as mustard, oats, lupins, barley or wheat to improve soil structure and organic matter. Dig these crops in while still soft and leafy, before they become coarse and stemmy. Existing asparagus beds should be carefully cultivated without damaging the crowns, while new beds benefit from deep cultivation and plenty of compost. Sprouted potatoes can be planted now for an early crop, and winter cauliflower can be protected from frost by tying the outer leaves over the developing heads. Fruit trees and berry bushes are preparing for another busy season. A dressing of potash will encourage better flowering and fruiting, while a thorough watering followed by a generous mulch will help conserve moisture as growth accelerates. Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in Waitaki 1st August 2026

August often teases us with the first true signs of spring. A run of mild, sunny days can have both gardeners and plants believing winter is behind them, but experience tells us there is usually one last burst of cold before the seasons finally turn. As daylight hours lengthen, dormant plants begin to stir, and fresh growth emerges, making this a particularly vulnerable time in the garden. Enjoy the early magnolias and blossoms, but remember that late frosts can still damage tender new growth and delicate fruit blossom.   The recent warmth will help dry heavy, waterlogged soils, making it a good time to check for areas where water lingers. Plants left in wet ground for too long can suffer root damage. To improve drainage, create channels to carry excess water away or add stones/gravel beneath newly planted shrubs and trees. Gardens that missed an autumn application of compost will still benefit from a generous layer spread over the soil. Earthworms will gradually work the organic matter into the ground, improving soil structure before spring growth begins. August is an ideal month for pruning. Finish winter rose pruning if you haven't already, remove all prunings and old leaves, then feed with manure-enriched compost, blood and bone, or a quality rose fertiliser.  Wisterias can have long, whippy leaders removed, keeping only the main framework. Avoid cutting back flowering spurs now, as next season's flower buds are already forming.  Many deciduous shrubs can now be rejuvenated. Remove old wood from weigelas and spireas, trim berberis, cut buddleias back hard to encourage fresh silvery growth, and clip away the old stems from catmint.  Hydrangeas will be showing swelling buds; prune old flowering stems back to the second pair of buds from the branch bottom while leaving non-flowering shoots untouched, as these will carry new season's blooms. Thick, woody hydrangea cuttings can also be taken now and rooted in damp river sand. Winter gardens are brightened by hellebores, which are now attracting bees on mild days. Once pollinated, their seed heads begin to develop and the flower stems become firm enough for picking. Seedlings often appear beneath established plants and can be transplanted after their second year, although patience is required as they may take four years to flower. Snow-damaged marguerite daisies are best left alone until frosts have finished. The damaged growth helps protect the healthy shoots beneath, and they will quickly recover once cut back to sound wood in spring. This is also the perfect time to plan new plantings. As gardens mature, increasing shade often means sun-loving perennials need relocating while woodland plants such as hostas, pulmonarias, hellebores, astilbes, foxgloves and Solomon's Seal can take their place. Planting generous drifts of the same variety creates far greater impact than scattering individual specimens throughout a border. Seed sowing will now be well underway. Sow hardy flowers and vegetable seeds into trays and place in a warm, bright position. Once seeds germinate, prick out into punnets and move seedlings to cooler conditions to harden them before planting.  Lawns start to come back this month and will respond to a dressing of lawn fertiliser to give them a boost. Fruit trees continue to arrive in garden centres, making August an excellent month for planting. Compact varieties like dwarf peaches and nectarines are ideal for smaller gardens, as are the slim-growing Ballerina apples. Apply a dressing of potash around fruiting trees and bushes to encourage strong flowering and fruit production. Watch peach trees carefully as buds begin to swell and apply a copper spray at bud burst to help prevent leaf curl.Gooseberries also benefit from winter pruning. Remove crossing branches, lift low growth clear of the ground and open the centre of the bush to make picking much easier and improve air circulation. Any low branches that have rooted into the soil can be lifted and potted to produce vigorous new plants. Grapevines should also be pruned before the sap rises by shortening side shoots back to two buds along the fruiting leaders. Strawberries thrive well in raised garden beds, containers, or hanging baskets, provided they receive plenty of sunlight. Vegetables: Protect tender vegetable seedlings with netting or frost cloth, as hungry birds can quickly strip fresh young growth as they start nesting soon. Broad beans, peas, garlic and shallots can all be planted into well-drained soil, while seed potatoes can be chitted in a cool, dry place ready for planting.   Cheers, Linda.

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Gardening in Waitaki July 22nd 2026

As we move further towards August, there is a definite feeling that spring is edging ever closer. Along the North Otago coast, the frosts will ease, temperatures have remained relatively mild, and that heavy rain has left the ground beautifully soft. Spring bulbs are pushing through quickly, with tulips already showing well and daffodils, jonquils and other bulbs racing towards bud. If we do get another sharp cold snap, it will simply hold the buds for a while, although any soft new growth may feel the effects. Gardens are already beginning to brighten with the flowers of early camellias, Rhododendron 'Christmas Cheer' and Prunus autumnalis. The perfume drifting through the garden from wintersweet, witch hazel, daphne, boronia and violets is a wonderful reminder that spring is not far away. August is one of the best months for planting trees and shrubs; the soil is moist, and roots can establish during spring. Trees take years to reach their full beauty, but every one planted today is an investment for future generations. The damp soil has reminded me how easily many shrubs layer themselves. Viburnums, choisyas, camellias and hydrangeas often drop low branches that naturally form roots where they touch the soil. These rooted sections can be left until well established before being cut from the parent plant and potted up. You can also encourage this by pegging a low branch into the soil after making a slight wound in the bark. Winter pruning continues. Remove old, tired wood from weigelas and spireas, lightly trim prickly berberis, cut buddleias back hard to encourage fresh silvery growth, and clip away all the old foliage from catmint. Wisterias also benefit from attention now. Remove the long whippy leaders that have grown since summer, leaving only the framework required to cover the support. Avoid pruning the short flowering spurs, as these carry next season's blooms. Larger reductions are best left until after flowering. Peony roses should have all last year's stems removed and destroyed, as diseases can overwinter on old growth. Be careful not to damage the bright pink shoots emerging from the crown. Dahlias can also have their old stems removed. If the stems are hollow, bend them over after cutting to prevent rain from collecting inside and rotting the tubers. Bearded irises are beginning to move now. Pull back any soil or mulch covering the rhizomes so they are partially exposed, then apply a light dressing of lime and potash to encourage flowering. Avoid nitrogen-rich fertilisers, which promote leaves rather than flowers. Rose pruning should be underway with buds beginning to swell, and the roots becoming active, making this the ideal time to apply rose fertiliser around the drip line. Water powdered fertilisers in well, while slow-release products will feed gradually each time it rains. Keep manure away from the crown. Lawns: The last heavy rain will have highlighted areas where lawns drain poorly. Resist the temptation to walk on saturated lawns, but make a note of any hollows that will need levelling later. Birds busily searching for worms are also helping aerate compacted soil. While the ground remains moist, a light topdressing of sieved compost will add valuable organic matter, particularly on heavy clay soils. Wait until mid spring before applying lawn fertiliser, allowing roots to establish first. Vegetable gardens will still be wet, so allow soils to drain before planting. Garlic and shallots can still be planted into well-prepared ground, while strawberries will establish well now in raised beds, containers or hanging planters. Good drainage remains the key to success. Fruit: Continue pruning gooseberries by removing crossing branches and lifting the lower growth clear of the ground. Any rooted branches can be potted up to produce healthy new plants. Newly planted fruit trees should also be cut back to around hip height. It seems drastic, but this first pruning encourages a well-shaped tree with fruit that will remain within easy reach for many years to come. And when blossom finally appears, let's hope for plenty of warm sunny days to bring the bees out to do the job they do so well. Cheers, Linda

Gardening in Waitaki July 15th 2026

July reminds us that winter still has plenty to say. After drenching rain, crisp frosts continue to greet us most mornings, and then a norwesterly wind brings warmth back. Those colder nights help keep early insect pests in check. Despite winter's grip, the garden is beginning to stir. Daphne is filling the air with perfume, while hellebores, primroses, polyanthus, violas and the first bulbs bring welcome colour to otherwise bare gardens. Primroses and polyanthus multiply readily and are easily divided. Lift established clumps, gently separate them into smaller plants, trim away some of the older foliage and keep them well watered until they establish. A light dressing of dried blood or fish fertiliser will encourage healthy growth and plenty of flowers. Mulching is one of the best jobs you can do this month. It helps conserve moisture, protects plant roots from fluctuating temperatures, suppresses winter weeds and feeds the soil as it breaks down. Apply it to damp soil wherever possible.Winter is an excellent time to improve the soil. Turn compost heaps to introduce oxygen and add moisture if they have become too dry. Fallen leaves need not be wasted either. Store them in large bags with a little water and allow them to rot into valuable leaf mould, one of the best soil conditioners you can make. Winter is also the ideal time to tackle pruning. Rose pruning for me is to happen next month when the rose wood is harder, but if you feel you need to get on with it, make every cut on a slight angle just above a strong outward-facing bud, using sharp secateurs to leave a clean cut that heals quickly. Bush roses can generally be reduced by about two-thirds, standards pruned back to around 25 centimetres above the head, while climbing roses need only the removal of old or weak growth, leaving five or six strong canes. Flower carpet and fairy roses can be reduced back with a hedge trimmer. If you have old, leggy rhododendrons that flower only at the tops of long woody branches, now is a good time to rejuvenate them. Although it may seem drastic, cutting them back to healthy growth lower down will encourage fresh shoots and eventually produce a fuller, bushier plant. You will sacrifice flowers for a season or two, but the long-term result is well worth the wait. Hydrangeas in milder areas can be pruned as they begin to show new leaf growth. Remove the old flower heads by cutting back to the second pair of healthy buds from the stem bottom, while leaving stems that did not flower, as these will often carry next season's blooms. If you prefer pink flowers, apply garden lime now. For blue blooms, use aluminium sulphate or a blue hydrangea fertiliser. Tender plants such as pelargoniums, hibiscus, bougainvillea and young marguerite daisies still need protection from heavy frosts. Frost cloth should be supported above the plants rather than resting directly on the foliage. Established marguerite daisies on the coast will often survive if the frosted outer growth is left in place to protect the new shoots beneath. Inland gardeners, where frosts are much harder, are usually better to overwinter cuttings under cover. Vegetable gardens remain productive on the coast, with silver beet, broccoli, cauliflower, kale, carrots, leeks and stored pumpkins all featuring in hearty winter meals. As beds become vacant, dig in compost and let frost, worms and winter weather continue improving the soil before spring planting. Garlic can still be planted successfully this month, either directly into well-drained soil or into containers in colder districts for planting out later. Plant individual cloves pointed end upwards, about five to seven centimetres deep and 10 to 15 centimetres apart. If you're planning an early potato crop, begin sprouting seed potatoes now in a cool, bright position. If you have room, consider growing comfrey. Its deep roots mine nutrients from well below the soil surface, making it an excellent compost activator, mulch and liquid fertiliser. The leaves are especially rich in potassium, making them valuable around tomatoes, potatoes, beans and fruiting plants. Fruit: Winter is also the best time to plant deciduous trees, fruit trees and berry bushes while they are dormant. Garden centres have their widest selection now, and planting before spring gives roots time to establish. Remember to keep the graft union above soil level and stake newly planted trees securely against our strong North Otago winds.Continue pruning apples and pears while dormant, leaving water shoots on apple trees until summer. and leave peaches until early spring when wounds heal more quickly, but for leaf curl controle a couple of sprays of copper oxychloride before bud burst will help. Tidy fruit bushes by removing old, unproductive growth, particularly from blackcurrants, which fruit best on younger wood. Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in Waitaki 8th July 2026

Well, where did all that rain come from? It arrived with such force, leaving a trail of destruction across our district. My thoughts are with everyone who was affected, and I sincerely hope those impacted are now receiving the support they need and are well on the way to getting life back to normal. Winter has well and truly settled in across North Otago. Rain and frost remind us that the coldest part of the year is here, and sodden ground means gardens and lawns will remain out of bounds until we get some drying winds. Remove saucers from under pots, as standing water can freeze, damaging plant roots and rotting bulbs, so good drainage is essential. Although gardens appear quiet, so much is happening beneath the surface. Roots continue to grow, buds slowly develop, compost quietly matures, and every frosty morning helps prepare plants for the burst of growth that spring will soon bring. July used to be one of my favourite months for catching up on those jobs that are difficult to tackle during the busy growing season. This year, however, many gardens will need time to dry out before we can begin cutting back deciduous trees and shrubs. While we wait, it's the perfect opportunity to plan for the busy spring and summer months ahead. Keep an eye on areas of the garden that drain slowly, particularly where heavy clay soils are a problem. These spots may need some intervention to prevent ongoing waterlogging. Digging shallow drainage channels can help remove standing water or redirect excess water to a lower area where it won't cause problems. Bulbs, tubers and plant roots can quickly rot if left sitting in saturated soil for too long. If you're concerned, lift dahlia tubers and any valuable bulbs, pot them up, and keep them in a sheltered spot until the garden has drained enough for replanting. Rose pruning: As I mentioned last week, rose pruning is best left until August, when the wood has had time to firm up. Ideally, pruning should be completed before the buds begin to break. Planting and transplanting: Garden centres are now well stocked with bare-rooted deciduous trees, roses and fruit trees. Make your selections before the best varieties sell out, but wait until the ground is no longer wet or frozen before planting. Trees and shrubs will happily remain in their bags for a while if kept watered. Before planting, always read the label carefully and consider the mature height and spread of the plant. A small shrub today can become a very large tree in years to come. Vegetable garden: Wet winter soils are best left alone until they begin to dry. Once workable, dig over vacant beds and incorporate generous amounts of compost and well-rotted manure, as heavy rain will have leached nutrients from the soil. Then allow frost and worms to continue improving the soil structure before spring planting. In colder districts, garlic can be started in containers if the ground remains frozen. Coastal gardeners can continue planting garlic into well-drained soil. If you grow early potatoes, have them ready to plant once conditions improve. Now is the perfect time to chit them by placing seed potatoes in a cool, frost-free, well-lit position to encourage short, sturdy green shoots that will establish quickly once planted. Gardeners with a greenhouse or cold frame can begin raising early vegetable seedlings ready for spring. Comfrey remains one of the most useful plants to have in the garden. Its potassium-rich leaves make an excellent compost activator, liquid fertiliser and mulch around tomatoes, beans and other fruiting plants. Fruit garden: Buy deciduous fruit trees and berry bushes while they are on offer, then plant when the ground allows. Choose sunny positions and avoid frost hollows for early-flowering varieties such as plums, pears and apricots. Resist the temptation to prune peaches and nectarines during winter. These are best pruned in early spring as growth begins, allowing wounds to heal quickly and making it easier to see which flower buds have survived winter. Cherries are best pruned during summer on fine days to reduce the risk of silver leaf disease. Apple and pear trees respond differently to heavy winter pruning. Excessively hard pruning often produces masses of water shoots and leafy growth at the expense of fruit, so vigorous trees are often better managed with summer pruning once the leaves have fully developed. Prepare new strawberry beds whenever conditions allow. To maintain healthy, productive plants, replace old beds every three years and renew the soil where possible. When propagating from runners, always select the runners closest to the parent plant, allowing them to root well before separating them in early spring. Cheers, Linda

Comfry plant & flowers.

Gardening in Waitaki June 30th 2026

Peach leafcurl

Pruning peach trees:

Winter has certainly settled in now, with crisp frosty mornings reminding us of the season. Yet, between the cold snaps, there are already gentle hints of spring. Spring bulbs are flowering in higher coastal areas. Frost draws up moisture, leaving soil cold and damp, but don't forget gardens growing beneath wide eaves. They often receive very little winter rain, particularly during windy weather, and may still need watering every couple of weeks. Winter may be quieter in the garden, but it is one of the most rewarding seasons for preparing for the busy months ahead. One of the biggest winter tasks in my previous large garden was cutting back deciduous shrubs and tackling convolvulus. Once the top growth dies away, it becomes much easier to follow the long white roots weaving through the soil and around the roots of other plants. I once dug a wheelbarrow full of convolvulus roots from one small area! There is something immensely satisfying about pulling out one long root without it breaking. As I never used weed sprays in gardens, digging and hand-pulling were my only weapons, and winter is by far the easiest time to win the battle. Pruning: Before picking up the secateurs, take a moment to understand how the plant grows. Does it flower on new wood or old wood? Does it produce fruit on young growth or mature spurs? Knowing the answers helps you prune at the right time. But don't be afraid to have a go—at worst you may lose a season of flowers and gain valuable experience. Leave hydrangeas and lavender until early spring. Their old stems help protect tender new growth from heavy frosts. Rose pruning can wait a while as frosts started late and the wood needs time to harden. Have mulch and manure-enriched compost ready for after pruning, keeping it away from the base of the stems to prevent rotting. Many gardeners use winter sprays to reduce pests and diseases. Lime sulphur is commonly applied before pruning to clean up fungal diseases, scale, mites, moss and lichen on deciduous trees and roses. After pruning, a copper spray combined with winter oil provides further protection before spring growth begins. Trees and Shrubs: Bare-rooted deciduous trees and shrubs are arriving in garden centres now. Early Winter is the perfect planting season while the soil remains moist, but avoid planting into frozen or waterlogged ground. Evergreen trees and shrubs are also available, but there's no rush to plant them. If buying, keep them outdoors in their pots in a sheltered position to harden until late winter, then plant when the soil begins to warm. Always read the mature size on the label before planting. A small shrub can become a very large one in only a few years, particularly many of our native species. Take care when planting near buildings, fences or paths. Young deciduous trees and shrubs can also be lifted and moved during winter if necessary. Trim damaged roots and shorten any excessively long ones before replanting. Vegetable Garden: Heavy winter rain often leaves vegetable gardens cold and waterlogged, so don't worry if growth has slowed right down. Most vegetables simply wait for warmer soil before they begin growing again. Once the soil becomes workable, weed garden beds and add aged manure or manure-enriched compost. Earthworms will spend winter incorporating the organic matter, leaving beautifully prepared soil for spring planting. If your ground stays wet and freezes, start garlic in containers and transplant it once the soil warms. Sow leek seeds now to plant out in september. Early seed potatoes can be "chitted" indoors now. Place them somewhere cool, bright and frost-free to develop short, sturdy green-purple shoots ready for planting later. Fruit Trees: Leaf curl is a common disease of peaches and nectarines. Trees affected will need regular spraying with Copper Oxychloride, if you are to keep the disease at bay. Spray soon after pruning in winter, then just before the tree comes into leaf in spring and again 10-14 days later, before blossom burst. The disease overwinters in buds and is common in cool, wet weather in spring. Rake up fallen leaves and burn or put them into the rubbish. Copper Oxychloride is a protectant spray; Bravo or GreenGuard can be used if the infestation is particularly heavy. There are peach varieties that are resistant to leaf curl, such as sweet Perfection, a locally bred peach naturally Peach trees resistant to leaf curl. April White, Good resistance to leaf curl. Sanguine is an old heritage variety. Frost is one of the best-known leaf curl-resistant peaches worldwide. Now is the time to plant deciduous fruit trees and bushes. Choose a sunny position and avoid frosty hollows for early flowering varieties such as plums, pears and apricots. Frost-prone sites are less of a problem for berries and other soft fruits, as winter chilling encourages good fruit bud development. Leave pruning until later in July. Cheers, Linda

Chitting potatoes.