Gardening in Waitaki June 1st 2026

Early June Winter will officially arrive soon, Enjoy the quieter pace of the garden this month. While growth above ground slows, important work continues beneath the soil, laying the foundations for another productive spring. My first frosts arrived last week along with cooler temperatures, although there were delightful days, reminders that winter can still offer beautiful gardening days. Frost cloth is back in use with me, especially for seedlings and cuttings. Frost can draw moisture from the soil, so keep an eye on shallow-rooted shrubs such as rhododendrons, camellias, hydrangeas, and maples. A thorough watering followed by a generous layer of compost or mulch will help protect roots through winter. Compost bins and heaps will be filling quickly with leaves, grass clippings, and soft garden trimmings. Layer materials with manure, a light sprinkling of lime, some finished compost, and water. Compost activity slows considerably in cold weather, so insulating heaps with straw or similar material helps retain warmth and keeps the composting organisms active. The effort will be well-rewarded in spring when gardens are hungry for nutrients. Hellebores are beginning to shine. Remove old foliage to expose the flowers and reduce overwintering pests such as greenfly. Roses should largely be left alone for now. Allow plants to finish hardening before the main winter prune in late June /July Strong rambling roses can have dead wood removed and excessively vigorous growth lightly reduced. If planting new roses this winter, prepare the ground now with compost or aged manure and avoid planting directly into soil where an old rose has recently grown without first replacing much of that soil. Tulips should be planted as soon as possible. Plant bulbs at least 10cm deep, or deeper in warm, north-facing gardens. A period of chilling before planting improves flowering. Lilies may also be planted and divided now, ensuring bulbs never dry out and are planted in well-drained soil. Hydrangeas are colouring beautifully as winter approaches. Leave flower heads intact until they become untidy, allowing stems to mature and harden. Large plants can be lifted and split by using a sharp saw, pieces can be planted to create new managable bushes. In colder districts, delay pruning until spring, removing flowering stems back to the second bud once new growth begins. Wisterias can be pruned once leaves have fallen, removing long, wandering shoots before they entwine around established branches. Container-grown buxus benefits from root pruning and fresh potting mix every couple of years. For winter colour, plant polyanthus, pansies, violas, primulas, wallflowers, ornamental kale, sweet peas, and poppies. Even a small pot by the front door can brighten the shortest days. Vegetable Garden: If earthworms are scarce, it is usually a sign that soil organic matter is lacking. Worms are invaluable workers, improving soil structure and fertility. Manure and compost encourage their activity and are especially worthwhile when establishing new vegetable beds. On the coast, broad beans, garlic, shallots, and rhubarb can still be planted. In colder inland areas, growth slows considerably, and protection may be needed for successful planting. Fruit: Bare-rooted fruit trees will soon be arriving in garden centres. Prepare planting sites now in sunny, sheltered positions with good drainage and plenty of organic matter. Apple, pear, and cherry trees fruit mainly on spurs and require only light pruning once established. Peaches and nectarines fruit on young wood and benefit from harder pruning to encourage fresh growth. Plum trees generally need only minimal pruning, with attention focused on removing upright water shoots and maintaining shape. Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in Waitaki May 20th 2026

Such a lovely, mellow time of the year, autumn’s softer days are ideal for tidying, shifting plants, improving soil, and preparing gardens for the colder months ahead. Compost always goes on first, spread thickly over cleared beds once autumn leaves and annual weeds have been removed. It feeds the soil and does a wonderful job of suppressing weeds. With my large, past garden, after compost, pea straw was spread over most gardens for added protection and warmth through winter. Be careful to keep mulch and compost away from bearded iris rhizomes and freesia bulbs, as they prefer to bake in the sun rather than remain covered and damp. This is an excellent time to reshape and reorganise gardens. Shrubs that have outgrown their allotted space can be lifted and shifted while the soil is still workable. Moving taller plants further back can completely open a garden, creating space for pathways, seating areas, pots, or statues. Reducing the height and width of trees and shrubs is often essential in smaller gardens, not only to maintain shape but also to allow more light onto lower-growing plants, encouraging healthier growth and better flowering. Perennial beds benefit greatly from attention now. Overgrown clumps can be lifted and divided, replanting only the younger, vigorous growth from the outer edges. Asters, phlox, aubretia, hostas, ornamental grasses, herbs such as sage, thyme and lemon balm, and many rockery plants all respond well to dividing at this time of year. Once replanted, cover the soil with compost to encourage fresh root growth and help insulate plants during winter. Some plants dislike disturbance, Peonies resent being moved, gerberas are best left until spring, and some South African shrubs and plants, leucodendrons, proteas, and banksia don't seem to do well after shifting. Cut back all the dahlias and dug out and divide some for planting in late spring, where summer colour is needed. Put labels with each clump to know the colours. Put in cardboard boxes and place in a dry shed, then fill the gaps with winter-flowering annual wallflowers, poppies, primulas, pansies, polyanthus, snapdragons, and forget-me-nots, which will slowly establish now and reward with cheerful blooms toward the end of winter. A highlight plant in a dull garden: A few years ago, I planted small clumps of the variegated iris. This iris is not grown for its insignificant blue flower but for its interesting green and white striped leaves. I had mine mass planted under standard iceberg roses, and they made a wonderful show. The clumps became large quickly, but are easy to divide and plant to break up dark green areas. Erica's are budding well, ready to burst into winter colour, the ground cover variety a wonderful ground covers for low maintenance gardens. Trim the spent flowers off erica's that flowered through the summer months to keep them compact. They will put out fresh new green growth through the winter and keep fertiliser away from erica's they do not like lime, dry soil, full sun is what the require. I shifted the trays of plant cuttings I have growing into a light, warm spot for them to continue growing well over winter. They will need dryer soil from now on so I will water them less often and always at the start of the day, then re-pot them in the Spring. Rose flowering is coming to an end, but spent blooms should be left on bushes for now, allowing hips to form and harden the wood before winter pruning in July. Container-grown buxus can also be repotted if pot-bound, as they tolerate root reduction well. Lawns remain green after autumn rain, although growth will soon slow. Lime can be applied before the first frosts while the soil is still warm and moist. Acid-loving moss and weeds are often a sign that soil pH is too low, and lime will improve growing conditions for spring growth. vegetables: With the damp ground allowing slugs to perform at their best, it's a struggle to grow small veg seedlings right now. Sharp gravel, crushed eggshells or dry sawdust will deter them a little, and they find sneaky places to hide until dark, when no birds are about. I find it best to grow seedlings in pots to promote growth before planting out, as slugs and snails seem to prefer small plants. Then try spraying with fish emulsion to fool them into thinking plants are protein rather than veg.Garlic planting can begin anytime from late May through August in warm, free-draining soil that has recently been limed. Plant large cloves around 5cm deep and 20cm apart. Fruit: Apples are ripening well after a good season. Pick fruit for storage before it becomes overripe. Continue planting strawberry runners into raised, well-drained beds enriched with compost. Bare-root fruit trees will soon begin arriving in garden centres, making now the perfect time to prepare planting sites with compost and manure. Winter planting allows roots to establish before spring growth begins and reduces planting stress. Cheers, Linda.

Time to plant out strawberry runners.

Gardening in Waitaki May 13th May 2026

The chill of late autumn is noticeable now in early mornings and nights here in North Otago, but there is still enough warmth in the ground for plants to continue growing steadily. There is still plenty to do in the garden, and these crisp sunny days make it a rewarding time to be outside preparing for the seasons ahead.Compost season is well underway, and my ready compost is disappearing quickly as it is shovelled generously over cleared garden beds in preparation for winter. Pea straw was used to follow in my past large garden, but where I am now, the wind would not allow it to stay put.  Some gardeners will still be waiting for the last of the leaves to fall before finishing the mulching. Autumn leaves are far too valuable to waste, and there are many ways to make use of them. Some are being added to compost heaps while others are being turned into leaf mould, which is wonderful for improving soil texture and adding humus back into the garden. To make leaf mould, shred leaves first with the lawn mower, as whole leaves break down far too slowly. Layer them into bins or large bags with a sprinkling of nitrogen-rich material, such as grass clippings or a handful of urea, between layers, and water lightly as you build. Left over winter, this will break down beautifully and be ready for spring use. My well-grown seedlings have been potted up before colder nights arrive. They have come directly from seed trays, frost cloth will soon cover them and will likely remain in place until spring. Winter colour for the garden: Calendulas, primulas, pansies, polianthus, ornamental kale, Leptospermum, azaleas, daphnes, Chimonanthus praecox (winter sweet)  and those special leucodendrons.Dahlias: Reminding you once again, cut back, dig, and divide for late spring planting. Label clumps by colour and store in cardboard boxes in a dry place. Fill gaps with winter annuals, such as wallflowers and poppies.  Ericas: Trim spent summer flowers to maintain compact growth. Avoid lime and fertiliser; they thrive in dry, sunny soil. Ground cover varieties are low-maintenance and will now be budding for winter colour. Bearded Iris and Freesia: Keep compost and mulch away from exposed rhizomes and bulbs to prevent baking in the sun.  Perennials: Divide overgrown clumps to fill gaps or pot up for later planting. Cover beds with compost to encourage root growth and insulate through winter.  Peony Roses: Plant or shift this month, taking care not to damage tuber shoots. Cuttings: Move trays to a light, warm spot for winter growth and water less frequently, at the start of the day.Pot Plants: Reduce watering and move away from cold glass as night temperatures drop.  Lawns are finally slowing down, and bare patches are best left now until spring sowing. Lime and gypsum can still be applied to help soften compacted clay soils and improve lawn condition over time. Grass grubs will be slowing down the eating of grass roots now, as larvae, they eat to fuel their transition into the brown night beetle. This process takes about 12 months. The most damage done to lawns is from February to May. Rake out patches of dead lawn ready for re-sowing now on the coast while the ground is still warm, or wait until spring. An earth-friendly way to eradicate grass grub is nematodes. Beneficial Cseek out and kill grubs and other soil-inhabiting insects. They come on a sponge (invisible to the naked eye) that you soak in water, put in a sprayer and spray your dirt or lawn. They will multiply over time and continue to kill grubs. A retail outlet for nematodes for sale is: https://www.bioforce.co.nz/products/nematop.html Vegetable garden: Plant snow peas, pak choi, kale, broccoli, cauliflower, and beetroot. Seeds: Sow baby spinach in kitchen window containers for winter greens. This is the last month to sow carrot seeds; use onion sets rather than seeds now for better results. Clear finished summer vegetables or dig in leafy crops. Add manure-enriched compost and lime to heavily cropped soil, and leave the soil exposed to winter frost. Fruit: Apples and late peaches will still be ripening on trees to enjoy. Leave winter fruit tree pruning for July through August, or before buds begin to swell. Not all fruiting plants require an annual prune, and some new dwarf cultivars of apples, peaches, apricots and nectarines have been bred to eliminate the need for annual pruning and maintenance. I will go further into this closer to the time. Cheers, Linda

Gardening in Waitaki May 6th 2026

With autumn more settled and fallen leaves gathering quickly, they may feel like a chore, but they are one of the most valuable resources in the autumn garden. Wet leaves from heavy dews, already beginning to break down, make excellent mulch; they enrich the soil naturally. While each tree sheds leaves to nourish its own roots, lawns should be kept clear, as heavy leaf cover blocks light and weakens grass. Instead, return them to the tree bases where they belong. As gardens transition into winter, layer compost generously as beds are cleared. Hold off on pea straw mulch until leaf fall is complete, and ensure soil is well watered before applying. I have been potting on seedlings and cuttings before growth slows. Newly potted plants will now require frost cloth protection overnight, removed during the day and replaced at dusk. Also, remove water trays from pots—soil will stay damp through winter, and excess water can lead to root rot or freezing. This is an ideal time to rejuvenate perennial beds. Lift and divide overgrown clumps, replanting only the youngest, healthiest growth from the outer edges. Many plants respond well to this, including asters, phlox, aubretia, hostas, grasses, and herbs such as sage and thyme. Rockery plants can also be divided now. Once replanted, apply a generous layer of compost to encourage root development and help insulate plants through winter. Deadhead dahlias, petunias, and geraniums to extend flowering until frost. Remove spent annuals and prepare beds for winter colour with primulas, polyanthus, pansies, and violas. Watch for self-sown seedlings like foxglove and lupin—these can be transplanted now to establish before winter. Hellebores (winter roses) should have old foliage removed to eradicate aphids that want to winter over and to showcase developing buds. In colder inland areas, leave some growth for frost protection, removing it later once the new growth has hardened. A light liquid feed can boost flowering if needed. Peonies are available for planting now. Choose roots with at least three eyes and plant shallowly, about 5–7cm deep, in a sunny, well-drained position. Once established, they can thrive undisturbed for decades. As I have mentioned before Lilies can now be lifted, divided, and replanted. Handle bulbs carefully, keeping fleshy scales intact and never allowing them to dry out. Cut old stems rather than pulling them away to prevent rot. Plant bulbs on a base of river sand and cover with compost enriched with blood and bone. May is the right time to plant tulip bulbs. Position bulbs at least 20cm deep in well-drained soil, ideally in a sunny or east-facing spot. Pre-chilling bulbs in the fridge for several weeks can improve performance, especially if soil warmth lingers. Lift lower branches on large trees to increase light on underplanting, trim new growth on wisterias, and if needing to trim hedges, do it now so the undergrowth can harden before the coldest months. Lawns: autumn sowing can still be done, with cooler conditions helping retain moisture for quick germination. vegetable garden: growth continues steadily after autumn rain. Harvest pumpkins and corn, allowing pumpkins to cure before storage. Continue planting winter crops such as cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, kale, spinach, beetroot, and broad beans. This is also the final opportunity to sow carrots and establish onion sets for best results. Herbs: rosemary, sage, thyme, and rocket, will establish well if planted now. Fruit remains abundant: Apples should be picked for storage before birds take their share. Feijoas are ripening, along with NZ cranberries (Ugni), figs, walnuts, and hazelnuts—plenty to harvest and enjoy. In the berry patch, continue planting strawberries in raised, well-composted beds. Prune raspberries after fruiting by cutting back spent canes, allowing new growth to develop for next season. Cheers, Linda