Gardening in Waitaki

Gardening in Waitaki
Weekly garden blog

Tuesday, August 31, 2021

Gardening in Waitaki September 1st 2021

Wow heavy frost again this week, thank goodness for frost cloth protecting  all the  seedlings I am nursing. With this strangeness now at level 3 I am itching to get potting and seed raising mix to carry on sowing seed and potting up. I make potting mix go further by adding sifted soil afterall soil is the true growing medium and with Garden centers loaded up with so many different mix options soil now being overlooked. Those who have a soil sieve can fill a wheelbarrow with fine sifted soil in no time. Seed raising mix can be used sparingly by filling a container with sifted soil then a layer of seed raising mix on the top. A teaspoon of productive soil contains more living organisms than there are people in the World.  Winter sown spring seeds are up now so I am thinning and potting Pansy and dianthus which have shallow roots into deeper seed trays and those with longer deeper roots like lupin, hellebore and Oriental poppy into their own individual small root pot as it is best to have a well developed root ball attached before planting out into the garden.  Baskets and pots can be thought about now, use only shallow rooted plants for baskets like pansy, primulas, and trailers like Virginia stock and dwarf sweet pea until it is warm enough to plant petunias, lobelia and begonia. Pots and baskets benefit from the addition of extra slow release fertiliser and water Chrystal's to keep them going,. Roots of what you want to plant will determine the size and depth of a pot or basket. Potted roses need a deep solid pot to help with  the heat of summer cooking roots,  potted, camellias, azaleas, hydrangeas and small trees and shrubs also suffer from cooked roots in summer. By placing a shorter plastic pot inside a terra cotta or concrete pot will help keep roots cooler, interior plastic pots should have wide drainage holes and sit on a layer of gravel inside the bigger pot  leaving a three  inch gap at the top to spread mulch which can be a thick layer of gravel, stones, bark or even sheep wool.  All potted plants do best in a good heavy potting mix, excellent drainage plus a consistent supply of food and water. If a potted plant is left too dry for too long between  watering it will never thrive or look lush and healthy. Hydrangeas can now all been pruned, fuchsias can be pruned once they start showing new growth, they flower on new growth that's why growers cut them right back to encourage new fresh growth, so cut back all that straggly old wood. Dahlias, I am keeping a cover of pea straw on top of mine because I feel nothing will be happening with them until well into next month. Rose growth is well on now and we don't have to chase aphids ( green fly) yet but they will be about soon to settle on the top new growth, easily visible for you to dispose of by removing with finger and thumb. Leave spraying (if needed) until leaves are well grown and have hardened up a little. Weeds are taking off as well during mild days, get them while small before they flower and make seed with a hoe on paths and driveways and pulling by hand while soil is soft. There are organic weed sprays on the market that work best when weeds are small so now is the time, get them before they flower and make seed.     Lawns: Prepare ground for sowing new lawns here on the coast when the chill has left the ground, spring sowing should be thickly spread  thickly to beat annual weeds.  Once spring mowing starts again on existing lawns, keep the mower blades up to allow grass to thicken as it comes back from dormancy and feed lawns just before or during rain and they will stay lush.  Vegetables: Green crops can be dug in now, before they flower and get stringy. Here on the coast sow lettuce seed and plant lettuce plants and other leaf veg on offer now at two week intervals but protect from frost and birds while small.  Carrots and peas can go in but ground is still too cold for parsnip, beans, corn, and the pumpkin family,  they all need warm soil to germinate. Broad beans sown in March  should be in flower looking for bees. Prepare ground for planting seed potatoes, if soil is too wet, fork over adding compost to get air in to aid drying. Potatoes can rot if the soil is cold and wet.  Fruit:Buds are swelling to blossom burst as sap rises, what's needed now are sunny days and bee's. Work on gooseberry bushes now before leaves arrive, thin out middle branches and cut bottom skirt branches up to raise height making it so much easier to pick the fruit from underneath. Strawberries are starting to move towards budding so will be looking for food, they need mulched with compost, old animal manure, then straw or pine needles as a cover will do the trick.

Thursday, August 26, 2021

Gardening in Waitaki August 26th 2021

While our Country is in no go lockdown mode Spring continues to unfold here after a run of lovely warm spring days we experienced this week. So far magnolias, camellias, daffodil and jonquil bulbs and blossom bursting buds confirm the above.Weeds, now it begins, address those weeds with a hoe while small and the sprayer can stay in the shed for a while yet. For paved areas and driveways that have been cleaned of small weeds there is a product call Ronstar that can be used to stop new seeds germinating, it comes in a granulated form and you sprinkle it on like salt, it will have no effect growing leaves (hence applying weed free ground) it makes the ground sterile stopping seed germination. Roses are budding and leafing now, wait until leaves are fully out and not too soft before starting folia feeding and a fortnightly spray program. The most important component for roses right now is food, rose fertiliser, old manure or manure enriched compost around the drip line and watered in will get you wonderful results further into the growing season.  Hydrangeas:  Buds are swelling so can be pruned and fed now, they should have come through this winter well. Enjoy the spring blooms but start thinking summer colour now... this is where you can paint your own garden canvas, hot colours to zaz up an area or whites silvers and greens to tone down harsh background colours and blues to cool and pull them all together.Where there is dirt filling with flowers will leave no room for weeds, for low maintenance gardens with trees, shrubs and mulch cover you can create pockets of colour with annuals between the shrubs, If you have weed mat to deal with just scrape away the mulch and with a craft knife cut a section of weed mat on 3 sides as a triangle, fold it under at the point edge and fill the dirt gap with annuals then replace the mulch around them. Once they have finished flowering for the year just remove before they seed and pull the folded flap of weed mat back over the area and re-mulch, a splash of colour among green shrubberies makes all the difference to a summer garden. Vegetables: Veg plots need attention now, weeds gone and compost dug in ready for seeds and seedlings, best not to sow or plant straight into mulch containing animal offal, this proves to be too strong but fine to spread around when new plantings have developed strong roots. Soil containing organic matter is best for new plantings and seed raising mix along rows when sowing seeds will gain good results.I plan to sow corn and pumpkin seeds early with days being mild but will nurse with cover for as long as it takes to give them a long growing season.I also have sprouted potatoes going in early and these will need protecting from late frosts as well, covered at night once through the ground.   Fruit:Berries are budding up to flower, they would appreciate organic mulch and a dressing of feriliser high in potash.  Strawberry plants are beginning to move into budding as well, my plot needs a lot of attention and building up with manure enriched compost and I am hoping I can find some plants remaining after the winter under all the chic weed. Cheers, Linda .

Monday, August 16, 2021

Gardening in Waitaki August 17th 2021

Another dull day as I write this, we are slowly moving into Spring with early blossom bursting buds and bulbs. To prepare for spring treat your garden to a late-winter pep-up by removing weeds while they are still small then digging in plenty of organic matter, such as compost and manure. Wigelias can be cut back, these are lovely old fashioned deciduous shrubs with no center trunk, they send long canes up from the ground that cover themselves in pretty pink  flowers in late spring. I remove all the old branches that have flowed, you can tell which branches they are because the wood looks really old and spent compared to the new fresh wood there ready and waiting to take their place.  Spirea shrubs need the same treatment and  hypericum (St Johns Wort, green leafed evergreen shrub with large bright yellow flowers can get a trim back now as well, if too tall and wide they can be taken well back.  Lift and divide perennials such as delphiniums, chrysanthemums, asters and astilbes. Sow seeds : alyssum, begonia, californian poppy, carnation, chrysanthemum, cosmos, dahlia, delphinium, dianthus, gypsophila, honesty, nemesia, marigold, pansy, petunia, phlox, portulaca, salvia, snapdragon, sunflower, verbena, viola, viscaria, and zinnia.  Plant seedlings: alyssum, aquilegia, canterbury bells, carnations, cornflower, cosmos, cineraria, delphinium, pansies, polyanthus, poppy, gypsophila, forget-me not, hollyhock, stock, and viola.  Fairy magnolia blush is proving to be a winner for a pretty hedge or tree for a small garden and looks great in a pot. This magnolia / michelia cross grows 4m high and 3m wide after 10 years, like's full sun or semi shade.  Roses: Apply a dressing of Rose Food to establish Rose's and Water in well.  Lawns: August can be a tricky time of the year for your lawn because the weather is so unpredictable, fertilize if we get a good shower for food to be available when needed. You may find the growth rate of grass increase from now, if you feel it necessary to start mowing keep the blades high and  remove any perennial weeds by hand before they flower and seed.  Fruit: Get all fruit bushes and grapes pruned as soon as possible because sap is rising which means branches will bleed sap when cut. remove some old grape leaders, replacing them with new growth leaders along wires. The result of this will be vertical budding and fruiting next year.  Citrus trees may need to be covered against early spring frosts in sheltered areas. New season’s fruit trees particularly pip and stone fruit can be planted now. I see a few bees at work already which is a good sign for the soon to be happening fruit blossom pollination.  Vegetables: Raised gardens in a sunny location probably have not had enough hard frosts this winter to break up the soil. If planting veg seedlings it is so good not to have to worry about the bugs and white butterflies at this time of the year.Onions: although onions prefer a sunny position with a rich but light soil, they will do well in most soils as long as it is firm. You can grow them in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Seeds should be sown at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. When planting, space plants 5-10 cm apart, seed trays don't have to be in a greenhouse, any sheltered spot will do to guard against rapid changes of temperature, especially at night. Downy mildew, neck rot and white rot are the most common diseases that attack onions. To avoid these, plant disease-resistant varieties and keep the garden clean of diseased debris. If your veg garden is further inland start adding some compost and a little lime now in readiness for when you plant out later this month.  Cheers, Linda.

Tuesday, August 10, 2021

Spring has sprung, well it seemed that was the case today when we were delivered a perfect spring day, as I biked through our lovely Botanic gardens I noticed Hellebore's, snow drops, camellias, jonquils and crocus have all persevered through the coldest months to be the first bloomers of spring. Last week I had the hose out to the plants and seedlings I am raising for the Garden corner at our Resource recovery park which will be open again at the end of this month. Folia feeding is beneficial now as roots are forming and looking for nutrients. Worm tea at weak strength, diluted to (weak tea colour) and any of those liquid plant food on offer in garden centers for newly planted annuals, perennials, roses and shrubs as new buds swell. To prepare for spring, treat your garden to a late-winter pep-up by digging in plenty of organic matter, such as compost and manure, then remove weeds and apply snail and slug control measures to reduce any winter population build up, slugs love wet conditions. Cut back wigelias and spirea's, these are lovely old fashioned deciduous shrubs with no center trunk, they send long canes up from the ground that cover themselves in small light & dark flowers in late spring. I remove all the old branches that have flowed long enough, you can tell which branches they are because the wood looks really old and spent compared to the new fresh wood there ready and waiting to take their place. Hypericum (St Johns Wort, green leafed evergreen shrub with large bright yellow flowers can be trimmed as well, right down to the ground if necessary, they grow large very fast eventually ending up a very tall wide shrub with a lot of old growth. A couple of days after the chop it will be pushing out new growth and will be a manageable bush again. Lift and divide perennials such as delphiniums, chrysanthemums, asters and astilbes. Sow seeds of: alyssum, begonia, californian poppy, carnation, celosia, chrysanthemum, cosmos, dahlia, delphinium, dianthus, gypsophila, honesty, nemesia, marigold, pansy, petunia, phlox, portulaca, salvia, snapdragon, sunflower, verbena, viola, viscaria, and zinnia,. Plant seedlings of: alyssum, aquilegia, canterbury bells, carnations, cornflower, cosmos, cineraria, delphinium, pansies, polyanthus, poppy, gypsophila, forget-me not, hollyhock, stock, and viola. Magnolias will be taking center stage about now, want a tree with stunning blooms the size of your hand? the New Zealand-bred Jury magnolia, ‘Felix’ has hot pink flowers up to 30cm wide and mass-blooms in early spring. Growing to 5m, it’s ideal for smaller gardens and needs little pruning. On a smaller scale the new fairy magnolia blush is proving to be a winner for a pretty hedge and looks great in a pot, this magnolia / michelia cross grows 4m high and 3m wide after 10 years, likes full sun or semi shade. Roses: Apply a dressing of Rose Food to establish Rose's and Water in well. Lawns: August can be a tricky time of the year for your lawn. This is because we don’t really know exactly what weather we are going to get Fertiliser now for food to be available when needed. You will find the growth rate of grass increase from now on take out any undesirable weeds that have come into your lawn during winter, I pop these weeds out with a knife, mowing will take care of annual weeds and an application of gypsum will help new lawns planted in clay soil. Vegetables: Raised gardens being in a sunny location will probably not have not had enough hard frosts this winter here on the coast to break up the soil. I am sure there will be some still digging carrots and parsnips using silver beet, and have leeks planted and growing well, it is so good not to have to worry about bugs and white butterflies at this time of the year. Onions prefer a sunny position with a rich but light soil, they will do well in most soils as long as it is firm. You can grow them in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Seeds should be sown at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. When planting, space plants 5-10 cm, seed trays don't have to be in a greenhouse, any sheltered spot will do to guard against rapid changes of temperature, especially at night. Downy mildew, neck rot and white rot are the most common diseases that attack onions, to avoid these, plant disease-resistant varieties and keep the garden clean of diseased debris. If your veg garden is further inland start adding some compost and a little lime now in readiness for when you plant out later this month. Fruit: finish pruning grapes - remove some old leaders to encourage new wood, to replace then train these new growth leaders along wires. The result of this will be vertical budding and fruiting next year. To prune a fruiting leader remove all new long growth on the vine other than the fruiting leader, on the leaders prune each new growth back to the second bud. These fruiting buds should be around a hand space apart to ensure adequate sized fruit, this means removing some of the new bud growth along the top of the leader and all of the new bud growth growing underneath. Some of these new budding top growths will throw two lots of bud branch, remove the least stronger one leaving only one lot of double buds to produce fruit. Citrus trees may need to be covered against late winter frosts in sheltered areas. New season’s fruit trees particularly pip and stone fruit can be planted now. I see a few bees at work already which is a good sign for the soon to be happening fruit blossom pollination. Cheers Linda.
Magnolia Felix

Tuesday, August 3, 2021

Gardening in Waitaki August 3rd 2021

August already after a non challenging July weather wise here in Waitaki. Spring will make a start towards the end of this month Hellebore's, snow drops, camellias and jonquils have persevered through the cold months to be the first bloomers.Raised gardens tend to dry out, especially on top faster than gardens at ground level after frosts and wind so keep an eye on raised gardens and rockeries going into spring as plants on waking are looking for moisture and nutrients to sustain rapid spring growth. I notice yellowing of some plants, the ground gets depleted of nitrogen during winter affecting shallow rooted camellias, azaleas and rhododendron, acid fertiliser especially formulated for them is available, apply and water in if you feel a shrub requires it. Potted plants out growing their containers will soon show poor growth, these plants can be revived by reducing the root mass by half then re-potting back into the same pot or potting on into a larger pot. Remove the root bound plant from the pot and lay it on the ground, I use a sharp spade to chop the root ball in half. The use of tin foil, (shiny side against the inside of the pot ) will help with a pot sunbaking in the hotter months and the use of a heavy tree and shrub mix is best for moisture retention. With all the slow release fertilisers on offer now it is easy to choose the right one for all plants. As days lengthen annual weed seeds will germinate quickly but probably more to the end of this month, I am mentioning this early so you can be aware and deal to them while in the new growth stage, whenever that may be at your place. Soft weeds like chickweed, biddy bid and fat hen can be dug in as humus for soil before they run to seed. Unfortunately perennial weeds will take off as well, docks, convolvulus and mellow, to be rid of them roots need to be completely dug out which for me in my past large garden was imposable so I had to relent to spraying those tough weeds when they first popped through the soil if I could without coming in contact with plants nearby. If Children or pets are a concern, there are safer, selective weed killer options utilizing potassium salts of fatty acids to kill weeds and unwanted grasses and work best when weeds are newly through the ground. A natural alternative to herbicide (for driveways and paved areas only) is a cocktail of vinegar, salt and liquid detergent. Acidic acid in the vinegar and salt has all the ingredients needed to quickly kill fresh growing weeds by drawing moisture, the detergent adds sticking ability. DO NOT use this combination anywhere near a garden because it is non selective of what it kills and will also be extremely harmful to soil life. Recipe: 1 gallon white vinegar, 1 cup salt, 1 tablespoon detergent. Combine ingredients and spray at the sunniest time of the day for best results.  Lawns: Moss can be dealt to in lawns, pathways and garden structures. There are a lot of products out there to deal with moss but killing the moss in lawns is simply a short term measure, it does not address the basic problem. If you really want to eradicate moss from your lawn, then you have to find the problem causing it. The reasons are varied, but not too difficult to isolate.Things that would be causing moss in your lawn could be: Water logging, Poor feeding regime, Soil too acidic, Shaded Lawns, Mowing lawns too close, drought - not to be confused with a bit of summer-browning and Compaction. Treating areas of moss in lawns can be carried out with sulphate of iron watered on at the strength displayed on the pack per sq meter, the moss will turn black and after a couple of weeks rake out the dead moss and re-seed.Moss rarely competes with strong growing lawns, the first lawn feed can be as soon as new growth is noticed. Slow release grass fertliser is ideal when the ground is wet and rain is about to happen, powdered grass fertiliser  must be watered in either by rain or hose, if left to sit it will burn new growth. Vegetables: Here on the coast get spring sowing off to an early start, plant peas and broad beans and veg seedlings on offer in garden centers.Further inland the soil will take a bit of thawing before any planting but an early start may be achieved by using a row of cloches or a stretch of clear polythene to warm and dry out the soil. Plenty to do preparing veg gardens by digging in humus/compost in readiness for the big plant out. I see seed potatoes are available for sprouting, then into the ground for an early crop on the coast. People have been telling me of the benefits gained from planting potatoes on a bed of pine needles, I lay them on comfrey leaves but will use some pine needles as well this year, I am sure there will be many other potato planting traditions out there. Fruit: Check peach trees, they should be just about at bud burst  if so a copper spray will help with leaf curl, once in blossom it is too late to spray.If you have not already pruned your peach or nectarine tree that's ok, they are best left until after the coldest weather. I will run through how to go about it.1. Standard type trees are easily trained to an open center or vase shape with 3 or 4 primary scaffold branches or they can be trained to V-shaped trees with just 2 scaffold branches, cut larger branches needing removal close to the trunk leaving only a small collar to prevent decay in branches.2. Remove small weak upright branches on trunk or main branches.3. Leave 50 to 75% pencil thick shooting wood per tree.Both peach and nectarine fruit on wood developed last summer. Inspect the buds on newer wood, single buds are leaf buds, double buds are immature fruit buds and triple buds are mature fruit buds. Cut to an outward facing double bud, leave triples. Cheers, Linda