Gardening in North Otago 30th September 2020

What a freezing cold snap early this week, and those poor little new born lambs will have suffered, with it being School holiday time again let's hope the second week warms up. After the temperature drop and strong winds there will be a few causalities in gardens, I had two rows of potatoes blackened and a few trays of seedlings succumb to the intense chill even though they were covered. Rhododendrons with dehydrated foliage and soft new maple foliage damaged, each got a good soak to help them recover until we get a decent rain which is in urgent need now in North Otago. Those districts receiving snow cover will benefit from deep spring moisture but here on the coast the ground is parched. When things warm up again seedlings will zoom up, It is best to pot seedlings on into individual pots for roots to become established before planting out because small seedlings have almost zero survival rate if planted out into a dry garden. Strong growing plants like sun flowers and delphinium seeds are best planted directly into the ground or peat pots and once the pot is filled with new roots plant pot and all, the strong roots will grow out through the pot as it breaks down. Summer colour in the garden should be thought about now if raising plants from seed, petunias, lobelia (both lovely in baskets and pots) nemesia, salvia will all germinate this month and be ready for pricking out into punnets to develop a root mass. All cottage plants as cosmos, poppies, larkspur, nigella (love in the mist) lavataera (annual) can be sown directly in the ground. Begonias & calla lilies will be showing shoots now, begonias can be cut into sections with a shoot to grow as new single plants and covered with damp sawdust to get them started before planting out later in the month. Companion planting: With all the planting going on right now companion planting could be the way to go, Gardeners from the past have documented successful companion planting knowledge down through the years for us to follow. Some plants give off an aroma that is disliked by unwanted insects and others are thought to enhance the growth of certain plants if planted along side them. Nasturtiums attract caterpillars, so planting alongside or around vegetables such as lettuces, broccoli and cabbages should mean the nasturtium will get attacked rather than your edible crop. Fox Gloves have stimulating effects on all plants in the garden, a welcome addition to the flower and veggie garden. Marigold shave a scent that repels aphids and attracts hover flies, which are predator insects, cabbage white butterfly are attracted to their host plant by smell, planting rows of small marigolds are effective in masking the smell and reducing cabbage butterfly damage. Hyssop also repels white butterfly from cauliflower, cabbage and broccoli and other brassica crops. A secretion from the roots of the Mexican tagetes deter eel worms so your potatoes and tomatoes are left alone. Tagetes and marigolds planted near tomatoes and roses will reduce aphid attack and attract hover-flies, voracious eaters of these pests. Basil and tomatoes are a well-known combination, great companions in the kitchen as well as the garden. Garlic, chives and parsley can be beneficial planted with Roses as aphid deterrents. Dill is popular with bees and planted with corn will ensure a bumper crop. Sage is a great herb to plant around a celery crop, as it helps to keep the aphids away. Carrots and leeks work well planted together, they both have strong aromas, which repel the other’s pests. Vegetables: Potatoes are up so mounding begins to get more to the shore. Corn sprouts in no time now, plant in groups so they support each other and pop some dill in to attract bees. Plant corn, beans, courgettes, cucumbers, late tomatoes, lettuce and basil (but protect basil from cold nights) The dreaded carrot fly is about in October when carrots are being thinned, Plant seed sparingly to avoid thinning and don't leave any thinning's about planted rows for the carrot fly to smell and if you have had problems in the past, cover rows with shade cloth to keep the female flies from landing and laying eggs. Fruit: Early blossom will have been affected with the frozen temperatures but we will have to wait and see. Bees are busy working at pollinating fruit bushes and trees on sunny days, keep the water up to them and mulch with unsprayed grass clippings right out to their drip line to keep moisture there, and organise netting over low trees for bird protection. Check all apples trees for woolly aphid ( white furry aphids on branches) spray trees with garlic, pyrethrum and neem oil (mixed)

Cheers, Linda

Gardening in North Otago September 22nd 2020

It is all on now with weeds, while they are small my most used tool is a hoe to keep them from taking hold, especially chick weed and biddy-bid which is worked on here to eradicate every Spring so have no idea why as many seed from both still germinate everywhere! A hoe will not work with couch grass and convolvulus this needs to be dug out while ground is soft and runners can be taken right back under the ground to where they begin, it is very satisfying to know they will not grow back if pulled all the way out. I spot spray in badly affected areas while surrounding are low but never where food is grown. Keeping the light off bare soil with mulch will stop annual weed seeds germinating, compost, un-sprayed grass clippings, (only thick enough to block light) pea straw, that great mulch, which looks like soil from Pukeuri freezing works,(around established plants) and the well cooked mulch from the Waitaki resource recovery park will all do the trick in orchards and rough garden areas. Mulching is also the answer to holding moisture in the ground. Garden edging with perennials is another way of covering the soil and a way to stop birds scratching soil out over paths, If you are looking for a pretty mat forming garden edge and have a clump of cat mint beginning to make new growth, dig the clump up and break into many new pieces with roots and pot them up. When roots fill pots they are ready to be planted as a front edge. This can also be done with lambs ear, erigeron daisy, violets, sage, mono grass and armeria (thrift) Feeding plants. If you have not feed plants or shrubs do it now, there are balanced plant foods for all types of plants on offer now for this time of the year, slow release granules, powdered plant food (watered in), blood and bone. Manure enriched compost rich in nitrogen should have been added to gardens in late winter, too much nitrogen given now will encourage over lush growth. However I often mention using old stable manure around roses to keep them going over their long flowering period, don't dig the manure in as this can cause root damage, watering will take it to the roots as required. Extend food just beyond the drip line where the most active feeding roots are. Having saved a lot of sun flower seed from last years flowering, they were planted two weeks ago and are now up and doing well, I just love seeing those big happy flower faces en-masse following the sun. They will be planted out in groups to stand high behind existing shrubs and any sunny bare areas that need brightening up. I have been noticing a few cherry blossom trees with root stock branches being left to grow. By this I mean any branches that develop below the graft (where the branches begin at the top of the trunk); these should be cut off while still small. If allowed to develop into branches they will take over the whole tree. All flowering cherry trees are grafted onto a strong root stock of a very ordinary white blossom tree so if you have a tree with lovely pink or white blossom and you notice some blossom looks different then most likely it will be a branch growing from below the graft, cut it right out Lawns The buzz of lawn mowers is in the air again, cutting too low will let light in for weeds to grow let them thicken up as they need to be strong to cope with on coming summer heat. Grass seed I planted a couple of weeks back has struck, letting me know the ground is warm enough for re-sowing more bare patches. Vegetable garden Lots to do in the veg garden right now, I have been madly sowing seeds over the last few weeks and it's now the time consuming pricking out to be done, just as well day's are longer now with daylight saving. All salad veg can go in along with, potatoes, peas and carrot seed, tomatoes, pumpkin and courgette plants will still need protection at nights until frosts are over then the ground will be warm enough for runner and dwarf beans. My board beans came through the winter well and have started to bean, It is wonderful have an abundance of choice again and to be picking our own fresh produce. If considering including a raised veg garden to plant up? this can be achieved easily by contacting Aly & Sophia at Hapori o te Ao on 021 044-8209 or at uno.mundo@gmail.com. they will come and measure up then give a quote. Fruit: It's all up to the bee's now. Cheers, Linda

Gardening in North Otago September 16 2020

A lovely weekend just past and much needed rain last week for North Otago, spring growth is now up and away judging by the explosion of blossom, spring bulbs and deciduous trees now showing green. Hydrangeas are budding to leaf, the perfect time to feed and give a good soak, a dressing of lime for pink and alum sulphate for blue. Roses are top priority right now,Things to watch out for are die back after frost damage, not all branches make the grade, if they have been affected cut them right back to new growth, also watch for growth below the graft, it comes up from the root stock, is usually a different colour and leaf to the grafted branches, cut right out. All roses are grafted onto a strong root stock. Green fly can be controlled, they start on the new growth tips so can be removed with finger and thumb. I have not sprayed my roses in the last few years choosing instead to feed them well with aged manure in late winter then folia feed once leaves have fully grown. Some still succumb to black spot, I just remove affected leaves. Planting: It's all on now for planting seedlings in flower and veg gardens and sowing seeds for summer colour, here are some suggestions. Wild flowers, cottage plants, Nasturshams, lobelia, petunias, nemesia, lavatera, salvia, marigolds. Spring is a time when seeds can be sown directly where you want them to grow or if you prefer not to compete with weeds sow in seed trays or bedding 4 and 6 packs to develop roots. Perennials are pushing up through mulch now, hosta's are making a move but there is still time to put the spade through clumps big enough to divide, slice cleanly through with a sharp spade and transplant where needed. Peony roses are also pushing up fast, carefully clear mulch from around them to let sun in. Be very careful not damage the new shoots. Cyclamen: If you were given a cyclamen in flower back in May it is time to plant it outside in a cool shady spot to finish the growing year. Pot up again just before Winter for indoor flowering. Lawns: Lawn mowers are out again, avoid cutting too low as grass is still recovering from winter dormancy. Scalping opens gaps for weeds to take hold. If dasies and flat weeds are a problem lawn spray will work now. I don't want to harm worms or good bacteria in lawns so I only spot spray. Vegetables: If you have never grown veg but intend to grow your own food this growing season it is not hard. A small patch of open ground in a warm spot dug deep and weeded could produce a good amount veg with successive planting and sowing. Rows of peas or beans grown up netted supports can also act as a wind break at one end of the patch with rows of beetroot, lettuce, brasicias, root veg then potatoes at the end with room for mounding the potato rows. Ground that has not grown plants before will not need building up with manure or fertiliser this season. Potatos to plant now as an early crop are Rocket, Cliff Kidney, Jersey Benne, Maris Anchor. Fruit trees in blossom are looking for bee's, raspberries and gooseberries are showing leaf, still time to thin out a gooseberry bush to let light in for good fruit development and easier picking. Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in North Otago September 8th 2020

Such a lovely beginning to the new growing season, North Otago is looking so pretty with masses of lovely blossom and daffodils everywhere, "Spring makes it's own statement, so loud and clear that the gardener seems to be only one of the instruments, not the composer."~ G. B Charlesworth. Cleaning out ponds was first on the list for me last week, leaves and old growth from pond plants needs to be removed and perhaps overflowing the pond will freshen it. Water Lilies, oxygen weed and water iris's are starting to make a move. A couple of years ago a helper and I removed all the yellow bog iris from the big pond, this was a much needed job because this common yellow iris was spreading so fast and took up a quarter of the pond with it's mat forming roots ( lesson learned, don't plant yellow bog iris in a domestic pond) The place for this iris is along the banks of a creek, the fibrous roots are fantastic at holding the sides back from erosion. Don't be tempted to add bull rushes to a domestic pond either, they also spread too quickly. While water lilies are not fully in leaf sections can be cut and re potted. If you do not have a mesh pot specifically for aquatic plants crate holes in the sides of a plastic pot and use that. Line the pot with sacking or woven fabric and 3/4 fill with garden soil and a small amount of slow release fertiliser in the center. Plant water lily section then add stones or gravel to the top of the pot and submerge to the bottom of the pond. Now the sap is up, remove unwanted growth from prunus trees, (flowering cherry) this is said to be the best time to make cuts in prunus to avoid the spread of silver leaf which can spread from tree to tree while in the dormant stage. Always on a warm dry day cut out any weak growth and cross over branches before they grow thick. Cut out all dead branches from beneath Kilmarnoch willows if you have them, this is the ornamental pussy willow once used often in small gardens. Each new branch grows out from the bud of last year's growth. All subsequent years growth dies and builds up under the new growth. The grafted weeping tree is much nicer to look at with all those dead branches removed and it is easier to do this when bare of leaves. Keep folia feeding new spring growing plants (other than bulbs , they store their own food ). Liquid plant food will encourage strong growth now plant, plant,plant all the pretty spring seedlings on offer now and sow seeds for summer flowering to save on buying seedlings later in the year. Lawns, Lawns benefit greatly from an early spring feed of lawn fertiliser but this works best with rain to wash it in. Unfortunately too much soil is removed from new building sites these days which means clay is not as far down creating a solid moisture holding pan under soil. Gypsum ( soluble lime) will work on opening up clay without changing the ph of soil. Frosts will soon be over allowing new lawns to be sown, remember to sow seed thickly as annual weed seeds will be competing. Vegetables: Soil is warming with the sun filled days becoming longer, every plant is now coming to life for spring so heaps to do in the veg garden as you ready it for planting. Break up and rake clods to fine soil down for direct seed sowing. Get pumpkin, butternut and squash and corn seeds started now under protection until frost finish, they need a long warm growing season to grow and ripen. It's great to be planting salad veg again especially while there are still no white butterflies or aphids about. As an early season deterrent start spraying fish emulsion on both veg and flowering seedlings, this will feed the plants and repel pests by fooling them into thinking their favorite food is now protein not vegetable, repeat after rain. Get sprouted potatoes in the ground, when leaves appear start mounding over them to encourage leaves and stalks to grow longer producing more potatoes. Keep water up to rows during dry spells. Fruit: All deciduous fruit trees can still be planted in September while the plants are just coming out of dormancy . All fruits require a position in full sun, shelter from prevailing winds is preferable or a stake added for a couple of years until roots are well anchored. If leaf curl is a problem on young stone fruit trees, pull affected leaves off and destroy, new leaves take their place. Strawberries: Delicious strawberries are easy to grow in a home garden, as little as 25 plants can yield more than 50 pounds. Strawberries need at least six hours of direct sun daily and will do well with a dressing of feriliser specifically formulated with extra potassium, regular irrigation and slightly acidic soil and covering the bed in straw or pine needles will keep the weeds down and the fruit clean. All other berries on offer should be planted now to settle in to a season of fruiting. Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in North Otago September 1st 2020

Whew, A few days of drying winds and then what usually happens here in paradise rain fell and with it came freshness and a cold snap with frost to remind us we are only early into spring. Cherry blossom buds will be opening and magnolias taking center stage so bee's will be back in force on sunny days.  Winter sown spring seeds are up now so I am thinning and potting Pansy and dianthus which have shallow roots into deeper seed trays and those with longer deeper roots like lupin, hellebore and Oriental poppy into their own individual small root pot as it is best to have a well developed root ball attached before planting out into the garden. Baskets and pots can be thought about now, use only shallow rooted plants for baskets like pansy, primulas, and trailers like Virginia stock and dwarf sweet pea until it is warm enough to plant petunias, lobelia and begonia. Pots and baskets benefit from the addition of extra slow release fertiliser and water Chrystal's to keep them going,. Roots of what you want to plant will determine the size and depth of a pot or basket. Potted roses need a deep solid pot to help with  the heat of summer cooking roots,  potted, camellias, azaleas, hydrangeas and also small trees and shrubs also suffer from cooked roots in summer. By placing a shorter plastic pot inside a terra cotta or concrete pot will help keep roots cooler, interior plastic pots should have wide drainage holes and sit on a layer of gravel inside the bigger pot  leaving a three  inch gap at the top to spread mulch which can be a thick layer of gravel, stones, bark or even sheep wool.  All potted plants do best in a good heavy potting mix, excellent drainage plus a consistent supply of food and water. If a potted plant is left too dry for too long between  watering's it will never thrive or look lush and healthy. I looked around the garden for plants to make an edge to take place of where a row of lavender had been, I have new lavender plants now in this spot but they are as yet tiny so felt they needed something in front. I found just the thing, a large clump of lambs ear growing in a rockery which had doubled in size so dug half of it out and broke up into single plants, once they start to spread I will remove for the lavender to take it's place. Silver is a perfect shade to use as a break between strong and soft shades, will grow in sun or semi shade and lambs ear also has the added bonus of being an interesting texture. Hydrangeas here have now all been pruned, fuchsias can be pruned once they start showing new growth, they flower on new growth that's why growers cut them right back to encourage new fresh growth, so cut back all that straggly old wood. Dahlias, I am keeping a cover of pea straw on top of mine because I feel nothing will be happening with them until well into next month. Rose growth is well on now and we don't have to chase aphids ( green fly) yet but they will be about soon to settle on the top new growth, easily visible for you to dispose of by removing with finger and thumb. Leave spraying (if needed) until leaves are well grown and have hardened up a little. Weeds are taking off as well during those mild days, get them while small before they flower and make seed with a hoe on paths and driveways and pulling by had while soil is soft. There are organic weed sprays on the market that work best when weeds are small so now is the time, get them before they flower and make seed.    Lawns: Prepare ground for sowing new lawns here on the coast when the chill has left the ground, spring sowing should be thickly spread  thickly to beat annual weeds.  Once spring mowing starts again on existing lawns keep the mower blades up to allow grass to thicken as it comes back from dormancy, feed lawns just before or during rain and they will stay lush. Vegetables: Green crops can be dug in now, before they flower and get stringy. Here on the coast sow lettuce seed and plant lettuce plants and other leaf veg on offer now at two week intervals but protect from frost and birds while small.  Carrots and peas can go in but still too cold for parsnip, beans, corn, and the pumpkin family they all need warm soil to germinate. Broad beans sown in March  should be in flower looking for bees. Prepare ground for planting seed potatoes, if soil is too wet fork over adding compost to get air in to aid drying. Potatoes can rot if soil is cold and wet. Fruit: Buds are swelling to blossom burst as sap rises, what's needed now are sunny days and bee's.  Work on gooseberry  bushes now before leaves arrive, thin out middle branches and cut bottom skirt branches up to raise height making it so much easier to pick the fruit from underneath.   Strawberries are starting to move towards budding so will be looking for food, they need mulched with compost, old animal manure then straw or pine needles as a cover will do the trick.