Gardening in Waitaki June 17th 2026

Some good rain for North Otago this week, let's hope it reaches down deep where it is needed. In my past large garden, I would be doing a lot of work at this time, compost and pea straw spreading, and having a man with a chainsaw and hedge trimmer attack the ivy that covered the tank stand. It is too late in the year to trim soft trees and shrubs, but ivy can be taken back to its clinging branches to start again at this time of the year. If you have ivy growing it needs to be trimmed at least twice a year; it is like wisteria if you are too kind to it. Each soft leader put out will grow into a thick woody tree trunk in time. What a great time of the year to look closely at the garden, now that some trees and shrubs are bare, inspection of sprouting new growth beneath their graft area can be done. All large deciduous trees such as flowering cherries, magnolias, silver birch, ashes, oaks, and any large well-grown specimen tree bought today, will have been grafted onto strong-growing rootstock different from the top graft. From time to time, the rootstock will push growth out and up, and because it is a strong grower, it will always overtake the grafted specimen. Rogue growth must be cut out as I have seen a few mature trees left to grow this way, and the result is not good, a prunus displaying beautiful pink blossom on one side and insipid root stock white blossom on the other side. Thinning out of branches can be done now. If branches are crossing over each other or there are far too many in the centre of a tree, don't just shorten a branch back because it will regrow from that point; take it right out and let some light in. Prunus and crab apple trees are bad for producing overcrowded branches, which tend to rub together and encourage disease if not removed. Make sure you choose a fine day to prune, and your pruning equipment is cleaned from one tree to the next. Methylated spirits are good for doing this. Digging up and shifting trees & shrubs around like rhododendrons, azaleas, and magnolias, anything you think has been struggling in the spot it has been planted in. This is the time to remove trees and shrubs that have long outgrown their youthful beauty and replace them with a younger version of the original or something different. You can change the whole look of a tired garden by doing this. As I have mentioned before, if a huge gap is going to be left with the removal of a tree or shrub, fill the gap with a section of manuka screening placed behind the replacement plant, it will give protection, and once the plant has reached the desired height and width, the screening can be removed. Plant sweet peas now to flower early in spring. Soak seeds for 24 hours before planting to soften the seed coat and encourage faster germination. Sow two seeds per deep pot filled with quality potting mix, planting them about 1 cm deep. Cover with a clear lid or plastic cover and place in a cool, bright position until they sprout. When seedlings reach 10–15 cm tall, pinch out the growing tip to encourage bushy, vigorous plants. Before planting, enrich the soil with plenty of compost or well-rotted manure, as sweet peas are heavy feeders. While weeding, I find a lot of seedling trees and shrubs popping up that birds have introduced, some of which have grown amongst shrubs like rhododendrons and camellias, and have become quite established before I noticed them and are stubborn to remove. It is best to get the spade down and remove them completely if you can, and if lucky enough to get roots intact, they can be potted. On the coast, there are so many plants that self-seed and can be lifted, potted, or transplanted at this time of the year, hellebore, lupins, poppies, pansies, viola, forget- me- not and primula, to name but a few. If you have polyanthas you left in the ground from last year, they will have grown enough to be broken apart. Pollanths respond well to a dressing of dried blood, as do camellias and Daphnes if they do not look like they are thriving. Lawns: It is best to keep off lawns while soft and wet. Lawns that performed poorly despite feeding and watering over the summer may be improved with winter liming. Flat weeds pop out easily now with a blade; it is too cold now for weed killer to work. Vegetables: In the vegetable garden where green leafy vegetables and onions will be growing next summer, give a dressing of 250 grams per square meter of dolomite lime. If you follow a regular rotation, this will ensure that most of the garden receives lime once in three years. Permanent crops like rhubarb should be limed every three years as well. In gardens fed with compost rather than chemical fertilisers, the PH tends to rise gradually, eventually making regular liming unnecessary. Cheers, Linda. --

Linda Wilson Gardening North Otago Mbl: 027 4430256

Gardening in Waitaki June 10th 2026

As we approach the shortest day of the year, there is still enough warmth in the midday sun to encourage slow growth, while frosts sweeten crops, improve soil structure and help reduce pests and diseases. If tender plants are at risk, cover them with frost cloth, allowing sunlight to warm the soil during the day and provide protection overnight. Trees and Shrubs: With deciduous trees now bare, this is the ideal time for inspection and maintenance. Remove any growth appearing below the graft on ornamental trees such as flowering cherries, magnolias, silver birch, ash and oak. Left unchecked, rootstock growth will eventually compete with the chosen variety, spoiling the tree's appearance and weakening its structure. Look for branches that cross, rub together or overcrowd the centre of the tree. Remove them completely rather than shortening them, making a clean, angled cut just outside the branch collar. Flowering cherries, crab apples and silver pears especially benefit from this thinning. To minimise the risk of silver leaf disease on prunus trees, prune only on a fine, dry day and disinfect tools with methylated spirits between trees. Standard Kilmarnock willows deserve annual attention. Their naturally ground-hugging growth has been grafted onto upright trunks, so dead growth accumulates beneath each season's canopy instead of breaking down naturally. Gently remove all old, brittle growth to prevent the tree from becoming top-heavy. Robinia mop tops also need their yearly cut back, removing all previous season's growth to maintain their neat, rounded shape, while weeping silver pears benefit from opening up the centre and removing any upright shoots. Spring Bulbs The best time for planting spring bulbs is Autumn, but there is still time to plant for a later spring display. Plant bulbs to a depth twice the diameter of the bulb; this depth ensures the darkness and moisture needed for bulbs to produce flowers. I have been nurturing seeds that germinated over the past two weeks. During these short winter days, they grow slowly, so I bring the trays indoors each night. On fine days, they go back outside, while on colder days, they remain in a bright spot indoors. Here on the coast, as the days gradually lengthen, growth will steadily accelerate, and by spring the seedlings should be a good size to pot up, bud and flower early. Further inland, where winter arrives earlier and lingers longer, gardeners need to be more patient, waiting until spring before new growth—apart from the ever-reliable spring bulbs bursting into action.   Flowers and Ornamentals Winter is an excellent time to lift and replant self-sown hellebores, lupins, violas, pansies, poppies, forget-me-nots and primulas. Polyanthas left in the garden from last year often multiply into generous clumps that can be divided and replanted. A light dressing of dried blood will encourage healthy green growth. Leucodendrons are a great addition to any garden, providing wonderful winter colour and making excellent cut flowers that last for weeks indoors. They thrive in full sun and well-drained acidic soil, dislike fertiliser and should never be moved once established.Compost and Mulch: I know I mention this often, but it is one of the best winter jobs, cleaning up fallen leaves, removing pest hiding places and spreading generous layers of compost over ornamental beds before topping with mulch. Earthworms will gradually work these nutrients down to the roots, ready for spring growth. Winter is also a good time to observe drainage problems while the ground is wet. Plants sitting in waterlogged areas can often be saved by lifting them, breaking through any clay pan beneath and adding stones or gravel to improve drainage if needed. Vegetable Garden: Frosts are helping break down heavy soil and reduce pest numbers, but winter vegetables still appreciate moisture during dry spells, as damp soil retains warmth better than dry soil.Continue planting broad beans, garlic, shallots, rhubarb and asparagus crowns on the coast. Have garlic ready for planting on the shortest day, using locally grown cloves rather than supermarket garlic wherever possible. Prepare next summer's leafy vegetable and onion beds with dolomite lime at approximately 250 grams per square metre if your soil requires it. Gardens that receive generous annual applications of compost often maintain a suitable pH naturally, reducing the need for regular liming.Glasshouses and tunnel houses should now be emptied of old summer crops, cleaned thoroughly and refreshed with new compost. Good hygiene now reduces problems next season. Fruit Trees: Bare-rooted fruit trees are arriving in garden centres this month. Prepare a sunny, open site with plenty of space for the tree to mature and receive maximum sunlight. Good air movement and access for pollinating bees will reward you with healthier trees and better crops in years to come.

Gardening in Waitaki Early June.

Dig and store dahlia tubers in colder areas.

We are fast approaching the shortest day, and while there is still enough warmth in the winter sun to make gardening pleasant once the frost has lifted, there is no mistaking that winter has arrived when the sun disappears in the late afternoon. Frosts and short days are all part of nature's plan, helping deciduous trees receive the winter chilling they need, improving the flavour of crops such as parsnips by converting starches to sugars, and disrupting many pest and disease cycles.The milder periods we have experienced recently have encouraged some plants to make soft new growth and even brought early blossom and bulbs into flower. Keep an eye on tender plants such as fuchsia, daphne, and young seedlings, protecting them with frost cloth if necessary. Frost cloth allows light through during the day, helping plants recharge warmth for the following night. Now that deciduous trees and shrubs are bare, it is an ideal time to inspect them carefully. Remove any growth emerging from below graft unions on specimen trees such as flowering cherries, magnolias, silver birch, ash and oak. Rootstock growth can quickly overwhelm the desired tree if left unchecked. Remove crossing, crowded or rubbing branches completely rather than shortening them. Prunus, crab apples and silver pears are particularly prone to overcrowding. Prune on fine days and disinfect tools between trees with methylated spirits to help prevent the spread of diseases such as silver leaf.Rogue trees and shrubs carried in by birds are often much easier to spot at this time of year. Remove them before they become established and begin competing with valued plants. Many self-sown seedlings such as hellebores, lupins, poppies, pansies, violas, forget-me-nots and primulas can be lifted and transplanted now. Polyanthus that have multiplied in the garden can also be divided and replanted, with a light dressing of dried blood helping them settle in quickly. Hellebores, often called winter roses, are beginning to send up flower buds. Remove old foliage to show off the flowers and improve air circulation. Second-year seedlings can be transplanted to new positions, although they may still take a few years to flower. Hellebores look particularly effective when mass planted beneath rhododendrons, camellias and azaleas in damp, semi-shaded areas. I have just planted colourful wall flowers and sweet William plants in the hope they will set bud before the coldest part of winter.  Dahlias will now have been blackened by frost. Cut the stems back and protect tubers with a mulch of compost or straw. Large clumps can be divided now by lifting and separating tubers, providing extra plants for elsewhere in the garden or to share with friends. Further inland, it would be wise to lift and store dahlia tubers in a sheltered, overhead cover. New season bare-root roses are arriving in garden centres. Choose sunny, well-drained sites for planting. Where clay is present, dig deeply and incorporate gravel or stones beneath the planting hole to improve drainage and prevent roots from sitting in water.  Fruit: New-season bare-root fruit trees will soon be arriving in garden centres. Fruit trees require full sun and ample space to develop properly and produce healthy crops. Vegetable gardens benefit from winter attention. Apply dolomite lime at approximately 250 grams per square metre to areas where leafy vegetables and onions will grow next summer. Regular crop rotation ensures most beds receive lime every three years, while permanent crops such as rhubarb also appreciate occasional liming. Gardens regularly fed with compost often require less lime over time as soil structure and fertility improve naturally. Keep planting winter vegetables, broad beans, garlic, rhubarb and asparagus crowns where conditions allow. Garlic is traditionally planted on the shortest day, which is not far away now. Frost will continue breaking down soil clods and reducing overwintering pests, but if winter vegetables are becoming dry, water early in the day, as moist soil holds warmth better than dry soil.If you have a glasshouse or tunnel house, now is an excellent time for a thorough clean-up. Remove old summer crops, sterilise benches, pots and tools, and add fresh compost ready for spring growing. Keeping structures clean reduces the number of pests, fungal spores and diseases carried through into the next season. Cheers, Linda