Gardening in North Otago October 2018

School holiday time again!!! our eight munch bunch around our table and romping through the garden during this first week. Scruff is once again in his element being taken for runs rather than walks.

Weeds, weeds, weeds are loving the big rain last week, I can not believe how many have been pulled from our garden, mostly biddy bid and chick weed, they  need to be removed before they make seed to stop future germination. Convolvulus is a harder weed to get rid of as it grows a network of long running roots under the soil. Digging these out gets the best results but if convolvulous is growing amongst plants this would not be possible so spot weed spraying maybe the only answer becuse every little piece of root will grow it's own network of roots.

All seedlings potted up in the last couple of weeks are growing in front of my eyes, now that days are warm it is best to pot seedlings on into individual pots for roots to become established before planting out because small seedlings have almost zero survival rate if planted out into a dry garden. Strong growing plants like sun flowers and delphinium seeds are best planted straight into peat pots and once the pot is filled with new roots plant pot and all, the strong roots will grow out through the pot as it breaks down.

Hosta's are pushing fresh new leaves out for waiting slugs! put sharp gravel under hosta's and spray with fish emulsion to deter them. I have flittle Peking bantams who take care of snails and slugs in my garden, they are very short in the leg which only allows minimal scratching  compared to long legged hens.

Companion planting:

With all the planting going on right now companion planting could be the way to go, Gardeners from the past have documented successful companion planting knowledge down through the years for us to follow. Some plants give off an aroma that is disliked by unwanted insects and others are thought to enhance the growth of certain plants if planted along side them.

Nasturtiums attract caterpillars, so planting alongside or around vegetables such as lettuces, broccoli and cabbages should mean the nasturtium will get attacked rather than your edible crop. Fox Gloves have stimulating effects on all plants in the garden, a welcome addition to the flower and veggie garden. Marigolds have a scent that repels aphids and attracts hover flies, which are predator insects, Mexican tagetes,( the lovely tiny marigolds), and French marigold, are invaluable to companion planting. Cabbage white butterfly are attracted to leaf veg by smell, planting rows of Mexican tagete is effective in masking the smell and reducing cabbage butterfly damage.  A secretion from the roots of the Mexican tagetes deter eel worms so your potatoes and tomatoes are left alone. Tagetes and calendula marigolds planted near tomatoes and roses will reduce aphid attack and attract hover-flies, voracious eaters of these pests. Basil and tomatoes are a well-known combination, great companions in the kitchen as well as the garden. Garlic, chives and parsley can be beneficial planted with Roses as aphid deterrents. Dill is popular with bees and planted with corn will ensure a bumper crop. Sage is a great herb to plant around a celery crop, as it helps to keep the aphids away. Carrots and leeks work well planted together, they both have strong aromas, which repel other other pests. Hyssop also repels white butterfly from cauliflower, cabbage and broccoli and other brassica crops. 

Vegetables: Potatoes will be up so mounding begins to encourage more potatoes per shore. Warm enough now to get corn started, but protect during cold nights and plant out when frosts have past in groups so they support each other and pop some dill around to attract bees. 

The dreaded carrot fly is about in October when carrots are being thinned,  plant seed sparingly to avoid thinning and dont leave any thinings about planted rows for the carrot fly to smell and if you have had prblems in the past, cover rows with shade cloth to keep the flys out while they are on the wing.

Fruit: Bees are busy working at pollinating fruit bushes and trees, keep water up to them and mulch with unsprayed grass clippings right out to their drip line to keep moisture there, and organise netting for bird protection.

Check all apples trees for woolly aphid ( white furry aphids on branches) spray tree with garlic, pyrethrum and neem oil (mixed)

Our garden is looking very pretty right now and ready for viewing should people be interested in taking a drive out to Weston, plenty of seating so bring a picnic.

Cheers, Linda

Gardening in North Otago September 18th 2018

Wow a cold rainy snap this week after such a lovely warm weekend here in North Otago, however we were sure needing rain so it is all good and a difference it has made to new growth and the lawns.  The hum of bees is back with the flowering cherries in blossom and it's a joy to be planting out bedding plants that will take our garden through to summer. Seedlings need to be protected during Spring cold snaps so if buying punnets get them accustomed to changeable weather and cold nights before planting them out and possibly losing them. Still too early for lobelia, begonias, petunias and marigold but not too early to sow seed of these under protection. Potted  shrubs need to be inspected for root crowding, it takes only a year for some to exhaust the mix they are planted in. Remove from the pot if not too big and trim roots back by half with a sharp spade and replant into a fresh heavy potting mix mixed with compost, then completely soak to the bottom of the pot to help the shrub settle back in with no air pockets surrounding roots. With Larger unmanagable pots and barroals I top up with mix after pushing a sharp object down through the roots to create large holes for potting mix to be washed down in around established roots. However if after a number of years a shub stops thriving it will be time to start again with something fresh. Lavenders: I mentioned lavenders last week and because they are so popular so thought I would touch on them again in more detail. English lavenders eventually get leggy and past it, don't nurse them thinking they will come back because they will probably not, dig them out and replace with new plants. Munstead lavender is the small edging variety which will not spill over a path as other English lavenders tend to. There are so many different varieties on the market now and none of them are very long lived if they do not like where they are growing. Full sun, manure/compost enriched soil with a dressing of lime from time to time, lavenders like it dry but need to get roots down deep to tap int o lower soil moisture. I have noticed the lovely tall English Hidcote does well growing down a solid fence line for support and keeps on keeping on if trimmed often, English lavenders are grown for oil and are a good drying variety. The bumble bee type, lavender major, are more manageable in boarders and the French lavender dentata is a tall hedging lavender that flowers all year round.Fuchsias: Here on the coast fuchsias can be cut back now that they are pushing out leaves, they flower on new growth so take them as far back as you need to for the height you would like them flowering. Fuchsias like moist ground and food keep up to them during the growing season to get best results.Rose leaves are firming up now and buds are forming so they are looking for food to help with the long growing season ahead of them, getting moisture down and mulching to keep it there is really beneficial to keep them healthy and from dehydrating as we head into hot weather. Healthy happy roses do not attract pests which means very little spaying, if any.  Lawns: The mowers are out again!  keep catchers up while grass is lush and they will not dry out as they do when cut low and if feed during a wetting drizzel they will stay spring fresh and green.Vegetables:  Here on the coast plant lettuce plants at two week intervals and any spare ground could be planted out in seed potatoes. My board beans and peas are up and doing well, I was once told to plant each bean with a little potash to help with rust problems, they still get a little rust but I think that's probably due to them getting too dry between waterings. Time to get the spuds in the ground although I am sure there will be clever Gardeners out there who have some growing in a sheltered spot almost ready for the pot. I wait until I see a rogue potato left behind from last year's digging to send up leaves to let me know the ground is ready. Fruit: All berry fruits are on the move so food, water and mulching are needed for a good production, the earlier this is done the better the crops.

Fruit: All berry fruits are on the move so food, water and mulching are needed for a good production, the earlier this is done the better the crops.

Cheers, Linda.  

Gardening in North Otago September 11th 2018

"Spring makes it's own statement, so loud and clear that the gardener seems to be only one of the instruments, not the composer."~

G. B Charlesworth.

North Otago is looking so pretty after some nice sunny days, masses of lovely blossom and daffodils everywhere. 

 lavenders: I have removed a lot of old stalky lavenders that were on their final chance to thrive last growing season. English lavenders eventually get leggy and past it, don't nurse them thinking they will come back because they will probably not, dig them out and replace with new fresh plants.

I looked around the garden for plants to make an edge to take place of where a row of lavender had been, I have new lavender plants now in the spot but they are as yet tiny. I found just the thing, a large clump of lambs ear growing in my rockery which had doubled in size, I dug half of it out and broke it up into single plants. Silver is a perfect shade to use as a break between strong and soft shades and will grow in sun or semi shade, lambs ear also has the added bonus of being an interesting texture.  

Roses are really leafing up now and the warmer it becomes the more aphids ( green fly) will be about, aphids settle on the top new growth of rose bushes and are easily visible on new small leaves for you to dispose of by removing with finger and thumb. I leave spraying until leaves are well grown and have hardened up a little.
Ponds: This week I have been working on my ponds,over flowing them and cleaning out leaves. Water lillie's, oxygen weed and water iris's are starting to make a move. I have a few of the yellow bog iris to remove before they take over as they tend to with it's mat forming roots ( don't plant yellow bog iris in a domestic pond) The place for this iris is along the banks of a creek, the fibrous roots are fantastic at holding the sides back from erosion. Don't be tempted to add bull rushes to a domestic pond either, they also spread too quickly.   

Pruning: Now the sap is up, I have been removing unwanted growth from prunus trees, (flowering cherry) it has been said that this is the best time to make cuts in prunus to avoid the spread of silver leaf which can spread from tree to tree while in the dormant stage. Cut out  any weak growth and cross over branches before they grow thick.  Always make sure your pruning equipment is cleaned from one tree to the next, methylated spirits is good for doing this and never prune like this on a dull damp day, this will spread silver leaf, pick a bright sunny day.

Kilmarnoch willow: this is the ornamental pussy willow used so often now in small gardens. Cut out all dead branches from beneath,  Each new branch grows out from a bud of last years growth. All subsequent years growth dies and builds up under the new growth. These grafted weeping tree's are much nicer to look at with all those dead branches removed and it is easier to do this when bare of leaves. If left they becomes top heavy and can fall over after rain has softened the ground.

Lawns: benefit greatly from an early spring feed of lawn fertiliser but this works best with rain to wash it in. Aerating and de-thatching can be done this month, aeration involves perforating the soil with small holes in compacted lawns to allow air, water and nutrients to reach grass roots. During the growing season is the best time for aeration and de-thatching then grass can heal and fill any gaps. 

1. Vegetables:The soil is warming up as sun is staying around longer so this is a busy time for gardeners who will be sowing, planting and fertilising their edible gardens. Get pumpkin, butternut , squash and corn seeds started now under protection, they need a long warm growing season to grow and ripen.

keep planting leafy veg as there are still no white butterflies about. As an early season deterrent start spraying fish emulsion on both veg and flowering plants, this will feed plants and repel pests by fooling them into thinking their favorite food is now protein not vegetable. Have some ready in a spray bottle to repeat after rain.

Once seed potatoes have sprouted get them in the ground. Our Weston School caretaker supplied our Children's garden  with cut down car Tyre's last year to fill with the fantastic compost he makes to plant out in potatoes, we had good crops. Four seed potatoes in each Tyre and once leaves appear another Tyre is placed on top and filled with more compost, four more potatoes are planted in this Tyre to keep the growing conditions warmer than the ground. When grown we will have 5 x two Tyre's high of new potatoes.

Fruit: All deciduous fruit trees can still be planted in September while the plants are just coming out of dormancy. A wide selection will be available in garden stores now.  All fruits require a position in full sun, sheltered from prevailing winds is preferable. Spray stone fruit trees on bud burst with Super Copper to protect from leaf curl disease. 

After fruiting take the height down on fruiting cherries and plum trees if they have grown beyond picking height as they tend to fruit on the top branches.   

Strawberries: will do well with a dressing of feriliser specifically formulated with extra potassium, I am sure there will be one on offer especially for strawberries, old stable manure is beneficial as well. All other berries on offer should be planted now to settle in to a season of fruiting.

Citrus: If you need to prune a citrus tree do it now, avoid doing so in summer as this is when citrus borer is active and pruning increases their vulnerability. If breakages in summer make pruning necessary, ensure you quickly cover up the cut with a pruning paste.  

Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in North Otago September 4th 2018

Still the odd cold day and frost here in North Otago, however frosts are gone as soon as the sun comes up and help keep bugs away. 

A lot of  cherry blossom will be out by the time this goes to print so bee's will be back in force on sunny days.  

Still thinning out small seedlings and transplanting some like Pansy and dianthus which have shallow roots into deeper seed trays and those with longer deeper roots like lupin, hellebore and Oriental poppy into their own individual small root pot as it is best to have a well developed root ball attached before planting out into the garden.

Baskets and pots can be thought about now, use only shallow rooted plants for baskets like pansy, small type petunias, nemesia, and trailers like Virginia stock and dwarf sweet pea until it is warm enough to plant petunias, lobelia and begonia. Pots and baskets benefit from the addition of extra slow release fertiliser and water Chrystal's to keep them going,  roots of what you want to plant will determine the size and depth of a pot or basket. Potted roses and hydrangeas need a deep pot which will not heat up and cook roots in summer, tin foil around the inside of a pot before filling ( shinny side facing out) will help keep roots cooler for potted roses, camellias, azaleas, hydrangeas and also small trees and shrubs. All potted plants need a good heavy potting mix and excellent drainage plus a consistent supply of food and water. If a potted plant is left too dry for too long between  watering's it will never thrive or look lush and healthy.

I looked around the garden for plants to make an edge to take place of where a row of lavender had been, I have new lavender plants now in this spot but they are as yet tiny so felt they needed something in front. I found just the thing, a large clump of lambs ear growing in a rockery which had doubled in size so dug half of it out and broke up into single plants, once they start to spread I will remove for the lavender to take it's place. Silver is a perfect shade to use as a break between strong and soft shades, will grow in sun or semi shade and lambs ear also has the added bonus of being an interesting texture.

Hydrangeas here have now all been pruned, fuchsias can be pruned once they start showing new growth, they flower on new growth that's why growers cut them right back to encourage new fresh growth, so cut back all that straggly old wood.

Dahlias, I am keeping a cover of pea straw on top of mine because I feel nothing will be happening with them until well into next month.

Roses are well on now  and we don't have to chase aphids ( green fly) yet but they will be about soon to settle on the top new growth, easily visible for you to dispose of by removing with finger and thumb. I leave spraying (if needed) until leaves are well grown and have hardened up a little.

Weeds are off to a flying start as well, spot spraying has been taking place here over the last two weeks and notice the first lot has worked, there are organic weed sprays on the market that work best when weeds are new and small so now is the time, get them before they flower and make seed.   

Lawns:
Prepare ground for sowing new lawns, here on the coast ground will soon be warm enough to get a strike, as I have mentioned before seed must be sown thickly in spring to beat the annual weeds. Once spring mowing starts keep the mower blades up to allow grass to thicken up and feed lawns just before or during rain and they will stay lush.

Vegetables:
Here on the coast sow lettuce seed and plant lettuce plants at two week intervals, all green veg on offer, peas, carrots. Corn and all in the pumpkin family will need strong frost protection if sown early. Prepare ground for planting seed potatoes, if soil is too wet fork over adding compost to get air in to aid drying. Potatoes can rot if soil is cold and wet.
green crops can be dug in now, before they flower and get stringy. 

Fruit: Buds are swelling to blossom burst as sap rises, what's needed now are sunny days and bee's.  Work on gooseberry  bushes now before leaves arrive, thin out middle branches and cut bottom skirt branches up to raise height from the ground making it so much easier to pick the fruit from underneath.   
Strawberries are starting to move towards budding so will be looking for food, they need mulched with compost, old animal manure then straw or pine needles as a cover will do the trick. 

Cheers, Linda.