Gardening in North Otago 1st November

Prunus prunus shimidsu sakura in Rockvale Gardens November

November brings the start of a new busy growing season .
Spring is moving on with new growth still too tender to need our attention we can look, touch and smell natures gifts while weeds beckon us.

Roses: No flowers on my roses as yet but buds are forming, thank goodness for all the rain to get them off to a good start. Peony roses are budding well  ready to delight us when they explode into flower.

Dahlias are pushing through now, I discovered some in shade as tree branches have spread wider. Dahlias can be shifted while leaves are still low , take a good amount of soil that roots are growing into. and plant in a sunny position. 

Hydrangeas have leafed up and are starting to produce flower heads so it is important to keep the water and food up to them, old stable manure, blood and bone, liquid or slow release fertiliser will keep them happy and flowering well. It's lime for pink and Epsom salts or aluminum sulphate to keep them blue. Strong winds can be detrimental to new hydrangea leaves, if they do get damaged they will soon recover.

Fuchsias are making a lot of growth now as well, if you missed cutting any back do it now, they will flower later but will soon catch up. Fuchsias are on sale right now and are wonderful in a shady spot and potted.
Fuchsia tip cuttings can be taken now, if you spot some you like in a friends garden ask for some cuttings. I break a cutting off at a heel or a nodule section, remove some of the top growth and push into firm wet river sand. 

Abutilon (Chinese lantern: If you are looking for something non invasive to make a show of colour against a wall why not try Abutilon they come in strong colours of, yellow, orange, burgundy and white. I planted yellow, burgundy and white together in a large container under planted with a lime green grass. Being a rather spindly plant I intertwined them and they now look like one bush. 

The weight of rain on deciduous tree branches makes it easy to see those needing to be lifted, if left they cast shade over surrounding plants. Any branch growing downwards with a canopy branch directly above it can be cut back or removed altogether. 

Lawns: Still getting heavy dews on lawns which helps to keep them lush, but hot days will soon put grass under stress, have lawn food on hand for the next good rain. If your lawns are inclined to crack when dry they have probably been planted on soil with high clay content. Apply gypsum ( soluble lime) and water in, after a couple of years of doing this your lawns will have a spring in them as gypsum works it's way through to break up clay pans. 

Vegetables: The rain, even though we think there has been enough of it this spring has been a treat to veg gardens as hosing does not give the same results as a good rain, but of course with all lush growth weeds will take over if left unattended. Hoeing while small is still the best weeding method I know. Any veg planted or sown now will pop up and thrive when the sun shines.

Tomatoes; will be getting taller and flowering now however the consistent cold snaps and overcast days will be holding them back ,making leaves curl and take on a blueish look. this will stop once we get a continuous warm spell. On dull cold days watering will chill them further so water and folia feed on the warm days early in the day to allow time for soil to warm again before the evening.  

Rockvale Garden is bursting with new growth and wonderful fragrances, come wander and enjoy, open daily.

Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in North Otago October 21st November 2019

November already, spring almost over and weather still unsettled with a chilling cold snaps and on and off rain. But proving a great spring for rhododendrons, azalea's, dogwoods and lilac after and peony roses are putting out fat buds in readiness for their grand display.  If roses were hard pruned in August instead of July they will be slow to leaf and bud, if green fly have established on new tip growth remove with finger and thumb and if rust effected leaves can be removed and bagged to stop spread. Once leaves have firmed up I will spray with fish emulsion and an organic fungicide. Always best to spray on a dull day when there are less bees around and never spray or wet leaves at dusk, rose leaves should be dry going into warm nights to prevent mildew growing.  

Spring is the best time for transplanting seedlings that have popped up from existing plants in the garden, like hellebore seedlings. ( Winter rose) last years hellebore seedlings should be strong, small plants now, I have been potting some up in root trainer pots, then once the little pots are full of roots they can be planted in groups under deciduous trees, and around rhododendrons, camellias, hydrangeas and fuchsias, they all like the same shady conditions.  

Box hedge: I am waiting for the new growth to firm up a little before trimming the buxus hedging, If trimmed too soon it will be a wasted effort because while foliage is very soft they are still putting out growth. When you feel spring new growth is done choose an overcast day to trim, this allowing the under growth a little time to recover before being subjected to our harsh NZ sun. However sunburn on new buxus growth is unavoidable and thankfully hedges will soon grow through the burning.  All soft trimmings can go on the garden or into the compost, they break down well in spring.

Planting on a slope: Spring is probably the best time to plant out a slope or bank, the ground is moist and plant roots are growing fast which means they will get a good hold before the heat of summer and while small the dreaded winds should not get a hold of them and whip them out of the ground. Prepare the bank  first by spraying out all weeds and grass, they will compete with moisture that your plants need. If it is possible terracing a steep slope with rocks or sleepers would be beneficial to hold moisture around plant roots. If this cannot be done try not to disturbed soil / clay in areas that are not being planted. If the soil is disturbed and broken up it will wash away with rain and watering. Planting: Dig a hole that is deep into the bank and shallow at the front, (an angle hole) this will create a hollow reserve for water. Use stones around each plant, this will help to prevent wind blowing soil away from the roots. Choose plants that grow in dry conditions, like South African plants; Greviller, leucodendron, Proteas, ask the Garden center assistant which plants survive well in a pot without a lot of watering, the plants they can leave for a while and they still look good when dried out. I mass plant lupines to fill the gaps on a bank until all the other plants get bigger, they give a spectacular show in the second year of planting and have the added advantage of fixing nitrogen into the soil.

Grass, Grass. Grass...So much mowing! If you have not sprayed lawn weeds out yet you can sprinkle your clippings around the garden, it is wonderful humus, but don't leave thick piles, spread it out so it can break down fast. Now the ground is warm your garden can take as much fresh green growth that you can throw at it. Leave the catcher off from time to time and rake cuttings evenly over the lawn. 

Vegetables/fruit

My no dig veg garden was turned into a strawberry patch a couple of years ago and this year I have renewed most of the plants into soil topped in pig manure then mulched with pine needles surrounded the year old strawberry plants are doing well having been feed with pig manure and blood n bone then mulched with fresh grass clippings to keep the weeds out until I find the time to gather pine needles. All berry fruit need consistent watering to produce plump fruit. A little potash around the drip line watered in will help with fruiting, 

Making a no dig garden: Find a sunny spot on bare ground,( not concrete) surround with sleepers, logs, Oamaru stone or boards high enough to hold layers of manure, soil /compost and straw. If working on bare dirt, spread a layer of manure straight on the damp ground, (this will bring the worms up). Then spread a thick layer of compost, old leaf mulch and dried grass clippings, (wet down.) add a layer of soil, clay soil is fine, water well after each layer leaving no dry spots. Next add a layer of straw, (wet down) then add more layers of compost and old leaf mulch and dried grass clippings, (wet down) then top more soil, (wet down), a little lime and an all purpose fertiliser can be added as you build the layers. Lastly add a top layer of straw which suppresses the weeds and is a great deterrent to slugs. When you think the garden is high enough start planting and you should be eating your own produce with in six weeks at this time of the year.

Keep planting, so much for the veg and flower garden is on offer right now. 

Cheers, Linda.

No dig garden.

Gardening in North Otago October 16 th 2019

Fantasic Sun! after all that lovely rain soaking in where it is needed in spring.
Everyday something new and beautiful greats me in our garden, this week fragrant lilac, peony rose's, sweet-peas, English abutilon and Kōwhai to please the birds.
If you need to shift rhododendrons, azalea's or camellia's do it immediately after flowering, before they put on their new season growth, and if your spring flowering shrubs are in need of a trim prune them back once they have finished flowering.
Mulch right now will help keep the moisture we now have deep down where it will be needed if we get those October winds. Mulch breaking down into soil will not only retain moisture but improves soil structure  while suppressing weed growth. Mulch can be straw, grass clippings, soft hedge clippings or weed free compost to keep exposed soil from baking while plants are establishing. To create a new top soil continual mulching plus gypsum breaking down into clay or poor draining soil will eventually convert poor soil into good growing soil.
Geraniums and pelargoniums are available now and should be planted in a sunny position where roots will never sit in water. Fuchsias are also on offer, they benefit from moist soil and afternoon shade to thrive as do hydrangeas, both fuchsias and hydrangeas take over from spring flowering shrubs to give summer and autumn colour and there are so many beautiful varieties to choose from.  
Dahlias, will be shooting now, tubers will rot if sitting in wet ground too long,  good drainage and full sun is the place for them.
Roses should now have new growth, this is the month to feed them with slow release Fertiliser which will add nutrients to roots when ever water is applied.
Potted plants also need slow release fertiliser, re-pot any plants that have been in the same container for more than three years.  Pot bound plants will need have the root ball removed using a sharp spade,  and can probably g into the same pot once most of the old potting mix is removed and fresh mix and water crystals are packed around the roots. 
Cymbidium orchids can be divided and re-potted now if crowded, and time to look for shoots appearing on  tuberous begonias, if they are beginning to move divide if needed by slicing with a sharp knife at an eye then bed into damp sawdust until ready to plant.
Water lilies are available this month and need to be planted in a basket lined with sphagnum moss or a double layer of chux dish cloths, then add garden soil, slow release fertiliser or manure, more soil then the lily and lastly a thick layer of shingle placed on top to help weigh the basket down in the water and stop the fertiliser / manure leaching out which will create green slime growth in the pond..
Lawns: 
Moss will be a problem in lawns after all the rain, I will be dealing to mine with sulphate of iron watered on with a watering can ( directions on the back of pack). Moss will turn black and die, rack out with a metal rake, loosen soil and re-sow with grass seed.  Poor drainage, shade or compacted soil will be the reason moss takes hold. Aerating with a fork or spiky shoes a top dressing with compost will add humus and encourage worms. Lawn weed spraying will work now also, I like to spot spray only in the hope of missing as many worms as I can.
Fruit and veg:
Right now in the veg garden there will be potatoes being mounded, planting of beans and salad greens, peas, and beetroot. Pumpkin, corn can be planted now also. That fabulous pig manure is on offer again, spread on top of soil to suppress weeds and the worms will take it down 
Grapes are beginning to show leaf, if dampness hangs about they could be affected by fungus, if noticed spray with an organic fungicide while growth is new and continue until day's become hot and dry 
Codling moths: If you have had trouble in the past with codling moth, get traps in place now before fruit forms, codling moths attack apples, pears, walnuts, quinces, crab apples and stone fruit such as plums and peaches. The females lay their eggs on the foliage near a young fruit and when the grub hatches it crawls to the fruit and eats its way inside. Once inside it is very hard to control. After a period of time of feeding it emerges and forms a cocoon in the loose bark or under the tree, where it will winter over to emerge as a moth in the spring/summer and start the cycle again. A female moth can lay up to 300 eggs during her short life. Some trees never attract the moth, but if one does you can be sure others will be chosen close by. Eradication of codling moth, quarter fill a tin or plastic milk container with treacle and hang in the tree to attract male grubs, the treacle is said to smell like the female pheromone which will attract the male grub into the container to reach a sticky end. A double bonus is that the treacle will attract grub eating birds.
Rockvale Garden in Weston is full of spring beauty right now and open daily, bring a picnic, seating is plenty, toilet available  / donation entry.
Cheers, Linda

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Gardening in North Otago October 8th 2019

Drying winds are the last thing fresh Spring growth needs but they arrived last week so we had to deal with it. Soak hoses are the way to get moisture down into deep, wind and evaporation zaps the ground and gardeners as well I am sure. I have been leaving the majority of the watering until late in the day. Keep water up to maples and shallow rooted shrubs like rhododendron, camellia and azaleas. Newly planted tall tree's move down to the roots in wind if they are not secured to stakes. A couple of large rocks around the base will add weight if bare rooted trees have just been planted. 

The pretty froth is now gone from early flowering cherries as new leaves take the place of blossom and thankfully it continues with the lovely white Mount fuji then Kan Zan with bright pink blossom bursting and lastly Shimidsu sakura, so beautiful. 

Hydrangeas and roses should be well leafed up now so need watered daily during strong winds. When leaves are firmer they handle the elements without this attention.

Bedding plants: Many on offer now to plant for summer colour in gardens, pots and hanging baskets. All bedding plants, once planted need attention, water and folia feeding.

I have been sifting soil for resowing patches in the lawn and decided to use sifted soil as a top layer before planting annuals and seeds. Sifted soil packs round new roots firmly so they don't dry enabling roots to grow quickly. Soil, is after all nature given for growing and here long before we had so many other growing medium choices! BUT planting comes to a stand still on windy days, don't be tempted to plant out anything until the ground can hold moisture. Plants will last in pots and punnets until the time is right. 

Plants for the right place starting with dry areas of the garden, under hungry trees or areas that drain too readily. You will be wasting your time and money planting shallow rooted plants like rhododendrons, azaleas, camellias, hydrangeas, roses or hellebore's in these areas unless you are prepared to mulch and water often. It's best to group with plants that will work their roots down to look for moisture like: Euphorbias in all their varieties, colours and sizes, Agapanthus: large and small varieties they are great on a slope. Buddleias will fill gaps at the back of a border, lovely sliver blue foliage and blue to cerise/ purple flowers, must be cut back well after flowering to keep bushy, also a great food sauce for butterflies.

Grass's always look good grouped together as they are in nature, they do well in the dry and add movement to the garden. Geraniums also require little attention in a dry spot once established but do need water until established. Lupins: Are wonderful in big groups, they also need water until they become established, after the first flowering they will self seed to make their groups larger. All these plants once established will cope with dry conditions. 

Damp, Shade loving plants to consider are hydrangea, Hostas, Heuchera. Not all shade loving plants have to be green. Heuchera plants come in a delightful variety of colors. Plant these as borders around the base of trees or even along the edge of walkways!Acanthus mollis Aluminum plant: (Ground cover) Hellobores (Winter rose) a must for every shade garden. 

Vegetable garden: Keep molding up potatoes as they show leaf, this keeps them cooler allowing more depth for them to grow a bigger crop. 

I have sown mixed lettuce seeds in a tray and plan to transplant them into the garden as I need them, lettuce seedlings will hold in a tray for a long time in a shady spot and only really start growing when they are fed and watered in a sunny spot. Soil is a perfect temperature for veg growing, every seed planted will germinate and do well.

Cheers Linda.