Gardening in Waitaki November 26th 2024

So much growth is happening now and roses are early to bloom but we should still have picking to do at Christmas before the need to do a summer prune. As the blooms die off, head back to a strong out-facing bud. For those with box hedging it is now time to trim as regrowth will be limited now, choose an overcast day or two to hold back the sun -fade on the new undergrowth. Young box hedging will only need the top evened up to encourage more side growth. A dressing of compost and blood & bone will give hedges what is needed to take them through a hot summer & autumn. Viola clumps can be cut back and divided now, I just dig up part of a large clump and basically pull it to bits planting sections with roots into pots and sitting them in a shaded spot over summer & autumn. By the start of next winter, the small pots will be filled with roots, new leaves, and buds ready to be planted. The same for polyanthus and primulas, break up clumps; plant out only fresh new growth, and throw away knotted old spent roots. There is still time to divide agapanthus, large and dwarf varieties. They can get a bit rootbound which reduces their flowering, dig out the whole clump (if it is still manageable enough to do this), then pull off smaller root clumps and plant them out on their own using fresh compost to get the roots going again. Agapanthus are great gap fillers in new gardens, they can always be removed as you fill your garden with permanent plants. If you have, or can get hold of some aged compost that has finished working and is ready to put in the garden you will be able to make compost tea.Compost Tea is a nutritionally rich, well-balanced, organic plant food made by steeping aged compost in water. The water is then diluted and used as a root / or foliar feed. It is also noted for its ability to control various plant diseases (blights, molds, wilts, etc. when used as a foliar spray), to repel and control insect pests and their damage when used regularly, and to encourage the growth of beneficial soil bacteria which results in healthier, more stress-tolerant plants. The basic recipe most often recommended is as follows:1 large container with lid (plastic rubbish bin works well) enough aged, completed compost to fill an old pillow case 1/2-3/4 full. Fill the container with water, place the compost-filled pillowcase (cheesecloth bag or pantyhose also work well), tie off the top, and submerge in the container of water. Cover (to prevent odor and insect problems) and let steep for a MINIMUM of 2 weeks. This steeping time is crucial to the formation of beneficial bacteria and the required fermentation process. When finished, dip out the tea and dilute it (3 parts water to 1 part tea) and use it weekly as root food for all plants.  (It is important to note that COMPOST TEA AND MANURE TEA ARE NOT THE SAME THING. Manure tea can be made in the same way but is not generally recommended as a foliar spray and is not as nutritionally well-balanced, I found that roses do well when liquid manure is applied around roots. Roses:If you are having trouble with aphids, black spots or mildew on roses, spraying now will keep them in check. Shield takes care of all, follow the instructions, and spray at the suggested intervals but not on a sunny day when bees are about, Keep food up to roses, it's hungry roses that are more susceptible to disease. Slow-release rose fertiliser will feed each time you water.  Weeds are starting to mature and make seeds, get them out before they do, most are easy to pull when they have grown a bit. Convolvulus will need to be dug out, making sure to remove every root.  I find it too risky to spray around the plants Convolvulus is clambering over so a ground-level zap on new growth is a much shorter distance for the spray to be effective.  Lawns are lush as we seem to have missed the October drying winds this spring, I am keeping the catcher up and mowing every second mow without it on to help retain the growth and ad humus as we head into the hottest seasons.  Fruit: Gooseberries, currants, raspberries, and strawberries should be plumping up nicely, nice sun-filled days are needed now for them to ripen. Vegetables: Keep mounding potato rows to keep light out as they grow bigger, consistent watering is important for potatoes now, this goes for all root vegetables. Leafy veg doesn't need any extra feeding at this time of the year, it will just encourage them to bolt. Plant only as many seedling plants as you think you would use when ready and hold back in shade other small seedling plants from the same batch until needed. Keep pumpkin and squash plants mulched, their roots are fragile until large leaves grow to create the root shade needed. All new small plants can be over-watered to the point where their roots cannot cope and then collapse, the soil should be dry on top between watering and good drainage is essential. Corn requires a long ripening season so should be well on now.  Cheers, Linda

Gardening in Waitaki November 19th 2024

Beautiful November peony blooms.

Still so much change in the weather but we get some lovely days leading us into summer. Growth is full-on now and the first flush of weeds will need removal or a cut-back before they go to seed and spread. Dahlias are pushing out new growth fast now. They need to be positioned in full sun and with at least 10 cm of soil cover above the tubers. If dahlias remain in the ground through winter, tubers tend to push up from the soil so if needed, top up over the tubers before full growth. Daisies bushes: Prune where needed to encourage summer flowering, and prune spring-flowering shrubs as well now if they are taking up too much room in the spot they are planted, take back to the past growth now before the flower seed is set and new growth hardens. Summer bedding annuals: will thrive if planted now in the warm soil. Petunias, lobelia, nemesia, nasturtium, saliva, marigolds and many more to choose from in retail outlets now. For pots, and hanging baskets choose annuals that make minimum roots. Geraniums are now available, plant in a sunny, dry spot and deadhead often to keep them flowering. Fuchsias are also available for planting now, they prefer semi-shaded areas as do hydrangeas. They take over from the spring flowering of rhododendrons, camellias, azaleas, and peony roses. Tuberous begonias: Those who store tubers over winter will be seeing leaves are starting. If new to tuberous begonias choose a well-drained site that is protected from wind in a semi-shaded spot. Early morning and late afternoon sun is ok. Plant tubers with soil just barely covering them at 20-30cm apart with the indented side facing up, and water well, roots and sprouts will form in a few weeks. Keep watered enough to keep the soil around the plants very slightly damp, never enough for it to be soggy, avoid watering on top of the plants, this encourages mildew. At the first sign of a white patch on any of the leaves apply a fungicide. Feed Begonias with a well-balanced (fish-based) plant food every 2 to 3 weeks. Buxus hedging is still too soft to be trimmed, when you can bend new growth and it snaps cleanly then it will trim cleanly, if too soft the hedge will still be growing and you will not get a sharp cut. Lawns: Have some lawn fertiliser on hand for the next rain (which never seems far away this month) to encourage strong roots able to withstand the hot months ahead. Vegetables: Changeable weather is affecting tomatoes, leaves curl and can turn bluish in colour when affected by a cold snap but soon recover once the heat returns, best not to water late in the day while the days are swinging from hot to cold. The odd chill keeps leaf veg from bolting to seed so it's not all bad. Fruit: All fruit seems to be doing well, nutrients and moisture are the important elements while fruit is forming. Berries and plums mature first and birds have it all worked out! Berry bushes and strawberries will need a covering to keep birds off, if they see them they will eat them. Cheers, Linda.

Summer bloom to come.

Gardening in Waitaki November 13th 2024

It is time once again to cut back plants that have finished flowering, alyssum, ground cover phlox, aubrietia, aquilegia, and forget-me-not. if you cut them back now they will green up and look good over summer. The same goes for Erica's, cut all the brown spent flower stems back and they will green up again in no time.After spreading compost, I fill every gap with flower seedlings such as cosmos, petunias, static, blue salvia, nasturtiums, lavatera, and lobelia, not leaving any room for weeds to grow, now some more gentle rain, please.  All deciduous trees have leafed up now. Don't be afraid to cut out overcrowding branches to let light into the plantings underneath. If two branches fill the same spot, take the lower one out. Maples and Oak trees tend to grow thick canopies; thin them out as required. I used to remove heaps at this time in my past garden, but when I stood back and looked, it was not noticeable, and dappled light was coming through. Dahlias are now showing leaf, once in bud they can be pinched out like chrysanthemums to encourage bushiness' but if the larger growing type they will still get tall so put stakes in now before they get up too far and begin to bend and fall. If your daffodils did not flower well this spring, It's a good time to break up large clumps while you can still see where they have been, flowering gets restricted when the clumps get overcrowded. Plant into about 20 cm of compost in small groups and feed with blood and bone then mulch so they don't dry out over summer. Thinking ahead, there are autumn flowering bulbs in Garden centers now, belladonnas, crocuses, and nerines, plant in full sun where they will not be disturbed. Water lilies can be added to ponds now as pond water is warming, if buying one make sure it is showing leaf, plant it into a plastic basket lined with thick newspaper or woven cloths like chux, then some aged manure and garden soil, plant the lily in the soil and top with a thick layer of stones or gravel. It is important not to let any fertiliser or manure leach out into the pond water because it will encourage the water to go green with slime which is harmful to fish when caught in gills.If your pond is stagnating it means that it is not working as it should. To correct this add some un-sprayed barley straw weighed down with a rock to stop it floating about. There is also  a product called Barley Clear https://www.gardensalive.co.nz/product/Ecopond_Extract_of_Barley_Straw, At first the pond water will not look too healthy but soon you will be amazed at how fast it will clear and stay clear once things start working naturally. To work naturally the bottom of the pond can and should be a little muddy, but the top should be clear, so you can easily tell when it is. If you would like to introduce baby fish to your new pond, acquire some oxygen weed from a pond already filled with fish because at this time of the year, fish blow eggs into oxygen weed so there is sure to be eggs that will hatch out in your pond with no big fish around to eat them. Fish do not need to be fed as the warmer months attract plenty of bugs to the pond.   Lawns: Keep mowers up a notch and try mowing without the catcher now and then, rake the clippings out over the lawn to add humus and feed regularly through the growing and cutting seasons. Have some fertiliser on hand for the next rain. Lawn seed sown now should germinate quickly in damp warm soil. Pop-out daisies, clover, and flat weeds with a blade if not too many, or spot spray with a lawn weed spray. Fruit: Check your fruit trees now for overcrowded bunches, thin bunches out by snipping small fruits off with sharp scissors if winds do not do it for you.   Vegetables: Potatoes are well up, and corn and pumpkins should be going well now. Snails and slugs are on the hunt for newly planted seedlings to chew on, once planted have a look about for these munchers and sprinkle some crushed egg shells or coarse grit around each seedling. Keep planting all vegetables but not too many of the same at one time.    Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in Waitaki November 5th 2024

As we near the end of the blossom season, the Rhododendrons and deciduous azaleas are taking the spotlight, displaying blooms as stunning as any tropical flower. A few roses have also begun flowering, the evening chill and intermittent rain should help maintain their vigor. However, aphids may have begun colonizing new rose buds, these can be removed by gently pinching them off with your fingers. Look beneath hellebore leaves and no doubt you will find green flies living a good reproductive life, cut the leaves back and destroy them before the aphids fly off into your garden. If you don’t want hellebore seedlings throughout the garden, trim back seed pods. Peonies are budding now, so adding supports can help manage the weight of the blooms. Tall wire supports shaped like a “U” are ideal for keeping the stems upright. For newly planted crowns, it’s best to limit flowering to just one bloom for now to allow the plant’s energy to focus on root development. Avoid letting them bloom during the first couple of years for better long-term growth. Peonies thrive in full sun, without competing plants nearby, and need plenty of water, especially before and during blooming. Lavender is budding as well. If spittlebugs become an issue, note that spraying won’t be effective due to the spittle barrier. Instead, a forceful hose spray should dislodge them. Hybrid Clematis look lovely in garden centers, these large-flowered varieties (not the invasive Montana type) need early training while the stems are still pliable. For successful growth, clematis benefits from rich, well-manured soil with a bit of lime. Don’t worry if your hybrid has no buds yet, as flowering times vary. If planted recently, let it flower before cutting it to the ground to encourage bushier growth. If a hybrid wilts, cut it down instead of digging it out—many come back strong the following year. Filling Gaps: To fill garden spaces, consider planting cottage-style flowers such as cosmos, love-in-a-mist, blue bedder salvia, Clary sage, and lavatera. These taller annuals can be planted densely to support each other and crowd out weeds. Regular deadheadings will keep them blooming through Christmas and beyond. Lawns have enjoyed the rain as have worms getting busy in the soft soil aerating as they go and with them rising up to the top layers in saturated lawns birds are happy with their easy meals I'm sure. There will be lush grass growth now but don't be tempted to lower the mower blades, leave a little length to shade roots as lawns dry, and use the lush clippings as thin layers of mulch around your gardens. Fruit Trees: Night beetles have not appeared yet, but they’re expected soon and may target young trees. While mature trees will show minimal damage, newly planted fruit trees, and prunus varieties may lose leaves to beetles. Don’t worry—leaves will regrow, and the trees will continue developing. Vegetables: Spring weather is perfect for growing vegetables, with warm, moist soil benefiting beans, peas, corn, pumpkins, courgettes, and cucumbers. Staggering seed planting will ensure a continuous harvest. Sticky traps for whiteflies can help detect early infestations in greenhouses. Make DIY sticky traps by coloring cards yellow and coating them with petroleum jelly mixed with a bit of dishwashing liquid. If whiteflies appear, start with a strong water spray, focusing on the undersides of leaves. Follow up with organic insecticidal soap (like Neem soap), spray at a cool time of day, and repeat a few days later. Attract whitefly predators, like hoverflies and ladybirds, by planting calendula, oregano, fennel, parsley, and even thistles near your greenhouse. Cheers, Linda

Keep lawn mower blades up a little so as not to scalp the lawn.