Gardening in Waitaki June 28th 2025

Into Another Month, and another stop-start week with King’s Birthday weekend upon us. June marks the time when many gardeners begin to pull back and tuck their gardens in for winter. Once the spent summer growth has been cut back, it's a great idea to add mulch to help insulate the soil and protect plant roots from winter chills. Drainage Check-Up: Recent rainfall has highlighted any poorly draining spots in the garden. If you’ve noticed plants struggling in soggy soil, dig them up and work on improving the site. Often, the issue lies with compacted clay beneath the topsoil. Dig deep down to the clay layer, break it up thoroughly, sprinkle gypsum over it, and add stones or at least three shovels of gravel to create a sump for water drainage. Replant, and your plant should thrive without risk of root rot. Root Cuttings – A Winter Project: This week, I’ve taken root cuttings of Hydrangea paniculata and a few other tricky-to-strike plants. If you’ve had trouble propagating some of your favourites, root cuttings might be the solution. They’re one of the most reliable and cost-effective ways to multiply many perennial and woody plants, especially during the dormant season from June to September. Woody Plants: Keep in mind that many trees are grafted onto different rootstocks, so only take cuttings from non-grafted trees and shrubs. Shrubs: Carefully remove soil from one side of the plant near the base to find healthy, pencil-thick roots. Take 2–6 inch (5–15 cm) root sections and cut them into 2–3 inch (5–7.5 cm) pieces. Use a flat cut on the top and a slanted cut on the bottom to keep track of orientation. Plant the cuttings in a deep pot, raised bed, or directly in a frost-free spot in the garden. Add a little sand to the bottom of each hole and dust the bottom ends with powdered sulfur to help prevent fungal issues. Cover with coarse river sand or fine gravel, and water only when the soil is dry. Perennials: It's often easier to lift the entire plant and select thick, fleshy roots. Take cuttings as above, replant the parent, and water it in well. In 3–4 weeks, cuttings should develop roots, and some may begin to shoot. Once shoots appear, feed with a half-strength liquid fertilizer. Transplant when established. Plants Suitable for Root Cuttings Include: Crabapple, Figs, Hydrangeas, Lilacs, Mock Orange, Poplar, Pussy Willow, Red & Yellow Twig Dogwoods, Old Roses, Snowball Bush, Weeping Willow, Yucca, Aster, Bear’s Breeches, Tall Phlox, Geranium, Globe Thistle, Hollyhocks, Horseradish, Oriental Poppy, Primrose, Rhubarb, Sage, Sea Holly, Perennial Statice, Raspberry, and Blackberry. Winter Garden Maintenance: remove all old hellebore leaves, as the undersides may be harbouring overwintering greenfly. New foliage will soon emerge as the flowers appear in mid-winter. Roses: Clean up all fallen leaves beneath bushes to reduce pest and disease risk. Apply a clean-up spray of lime sulphur to defoliate and treat scale, mites, moss, and lichen. Later in July, after pruning, follow up with a spray of Champion Copper and Conqueror Oil. This timing is ideal as bees, butterflies, and ladybirds are largely absent. Lily Bulbs: Continue planting in raised beds. Don’t allow roots to dry out. Gladioli: Begin early plantings now for blooms in November. Polyanthus: Brighten your garden or entryway with polyanthus in pots or beds. Veggies & Fruit: Coastal areas: Sow broad beans, garlic, shallots, and rhubarb. Colder inland regions: Best to wait—very little can be planted now: Fruit trees & deciduous trees with lichen: Apply a lime sulphur spray to clean them up—but skip apricot trees, as lime sulphur will burn their fruit buds. Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in Waitaki May 20th 2025

japanese maple osakazuki in my past garden.

The end of mellow May leads us into a new month bringing different gardening challenges with the start of winter chills. Lack of wind means all leaves haven't been tugged from trees, and soil has not dried-out yet. Frost will soon play a part in robbing the soil of moisture from soil so keep an eye on maple trees. if leaves shrivel quickly during colour change it's an indication of root dryness. Rose flowering is coming to an end, but don't cut spent flower heads off, leave all types of roses to make seed which will harden wood before the big prune in july. New season's bare-root roses should be in Garden centers. If you want to plant roses, prepare the ground now by digging in old stable manure or bagged rose mix. Bare-rooted, winter-planted roses are less likely to suffer from planting stress than roses planted in spring. Re-pot container-grown buxus if they look pot-bound. Buxus root growth is prolific, and they don't seem to suffer from the removal of half a root ball. I replaced the old growing medium with half potting mix and sifted soil. Winter colour in pots, plant polyanthus, pansies, primulas, snapdragons, and wallflowers. I have just planted out a garden with wall flowers and forget- me- not, both will fill out from now on and should be in full bloom towards the end of winter. Lawns: The unusual autumn rain we have had has kept lawns green, but growth should now be slowing down; however, lawn mowers will still be on the go until the last of the leaves. Next time it rains, sprinkle some lime over the lawns for a boost before they stop growing. Gardeners in the past preferred lime just before the first frost because the soil then has all winter to absorb the lime, but lime is never spread on a dry, wilted lawn or a soggy, wet lawn. I like to follow the old, tried and tested ways that get results. Keep in mind for the next growing season, lawn grass grows best on a nutrient ratio of 3 parts nitrogen, 1 part phosphorus, and 2 parts potassium. (12-4-8). While this is an ideal ratio, you may not be able to find the exact ratio in a lawn fertilizer; a close match will do. If ground pH is below 6 on the pH scale, lime will make a marked improvement in growing conditions come spring. One sign of a low soil pH is the presence of excess moss and weeds in your garden or lawn. Moss and weeds are acid-loving plants, though not a guaranteed indicator; an excess of moss and weeds is a good sign that you should raise the soil pH. Another sign that you need to raise soil pH is when fertilizer doesn’t seem to be doing its job. Acidic soil prevents fertilizer from functioning properly. Vegetables: On the coast, sow broad beans, garlic, shallots, and rhubarb. In colder areas, nothing much can be planted without protection, but covering bare soil with a thick layer of mulch will keep the soil from remaining wet and frozen over the winter months. Fruit: Bare-rooted fruit trees will be arriving in garden centers soon. ask now if they will be stocking the required trees and have them put aside on arrival. Ground can be prepared now for planting fruit trees. choose an open, sunny position, sheltered from strong winds. Fruit trees will grow in a wide range of soil types as long as there is good drainage. Plums and pear rootstock tolerate heavier soils than most other fruit trees. Using good quality compost will improve water retention in lighter soils and improve drainage in heavier soils, as well as improving fertility. Pruning of newly planted fruit trees will not take place until trees have branched. During the early stages of tree development, the main goal is to develop the shape and framework that will support heavy crops of fruit. Pruning: Apple trees: After initial shaping of apple trees, the only pruning necessary is the removal of excess twiggy growth. I have found that pruning water shoots (new growth) during winter will only stimulate growth, causing unwanted growth the following season, but summer pruning on established trees will cause the tree to grow less new wood during the growing season. Apple trees produce fruit on spurs (short stubby growths attached to main branches. They continue producing on the same spurs for several years. Pears and cherry fruit also grow on spurs and require similar treatment. Apricot: Prune apricot trees in late winter or early spring as the new leaves and flowers begin to open, or straight after fruiting. Newly planted apricots can be pruned soon after planting. Remove all damaged or broken shoots and limbs and all branches with a narrow crotch (those that grow up more than out) and all branches that are within 18 inches of the ground. Shorten last year’s main branches to about 30 inches. Peach and nectarine: These trees flower on new wood made the previous summer. prune hard to encourage new growth; otherwise, fruit will be produced further and further out on the branches each year. Flower buds are plump, while growth buds are flatter. Plum trees produce fruit on the same spurs for several years. Once a shape has been established, it requires little pruning because excessive pruning can overstimulate tree growth at the expense of fruit. Remove vertical branching and water sprouts regularly. Look at a tree, and it is easy to distinguish the water sprouts from the regular growth. They grow straight up from the canopy branches and trunk, and the branches are thin and scraggly in appearance. A heavy hand when pruning in winter will increase the number of water sprouts on the tree. When pruning plum trees in the winter, only remove 20 percent of the growth from the previous year. Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in Waitaki May 14th 2025

As we settle into autumn, it brings us shorter days and the mellow atmosphere of May. I recently moved to a property with a low-maintenance garden already in place, but as any passionate gardener would, I’ve begun rearranging and removing plants that I felt were not for me. While I appreciate foliage, I’ve always seen it as a complement to flowering plants; never have I been without a picking garden; I intend to have one here. Creating a low-maintenance picking garden without making it too labor-intensive is the challenge. Fortunately, years of gardening with all the successes and the inevitable mistakes have taught me what works best with minimal effort. This experience has been invaluable not only in my gardens but also in the many I’ve designed for clients and plan to design in the future. This new garden is covered with weed mat and chunky bark mulch. While this is excellent for suppressing weeds in open areas, it has its drawbacks; it slows plant growth, keeps soil soggy in exposed spots, and prevents moisture retention in dry areas, especially under eaves. To optimize planting in such a garden, a few adjustments are necessary. For dry areas under eaves, start by raking the bark off, then remove the weed mat. Soak the soil thoroughly and apply a layer of manure-enriched compost. Plant low-growing shrubs or perennials, then reapply the bark mulch. Bark breaks down slowly and can deplete soil nitrogen, but the compost will counteract this; weeds will be few, and soil will retain moisture if kept up. In wetter areas where the weed mat cannot be entirely removed, cut a crisscross pattern in the mat where you wish to plant, fold back the corners, and dig holes larger than the root ball of your plants. After planting, leave the folded mat corners tucked back, allowing air circulation. Cover the surface with bark again. This technique helps regulate soil moisture and promotes healthier plant growth. Gardens, like all living spaces, evolve. Understanding how to work with existing elements while making them suit your vision is key — a principle I have always applied in my designs and those I create for others. Dahlias: Cut back, dig, and divide for late spring planting. Label clumps by color and store in cardboard boxes in a dry shed. Fill gaps with winter annuals like wallflowers and poppies. Ericas: Trim spent summer flowers to maintain compact growth. Avoid lime and fertilizer; they thrive in dry, sunny soil. Ground cover varieties are low-maintenance and budding for winter color. Bearded Iris and Freesia: Keep compost and mulch away from exposed rhizomes and bulbs to prevent baking in the sun. Perennials: Divide overgrown clumps to fill gaps or pot up for later planting. Cover beds with compost to encourage root growth and insulate through winter. Peony Roses: Plant or shift this month, taking care not to damage tuber shoots. Cuttings: Move trays to a light, warm spot for winter growth and water less frequently, at the start of the day.Tree Wrenching: Begin wrenching trees for relocation by digging around half the root mass, backfilling where roots have been cut with peat, compost, or sifted soil to promote new feeder roots. Water regularly. Pot Plants: Reduce watering and move away from cold glass as night temperatures drop. Fruit: strawberries. Plant now in raised beds for better drainage and add manure-rich compost. Raspberries: Cut back fruiting stems by half after fruiting; cut two-year-old canes to the ground. Apples: Pick for storage to prevent bird damage. Delay pruning pip fruit until next month. Vegetables: Plant snow peas, pak choi, kale, broccoli, cauliflower, and beetroot. Sow baby spinach in kitchen window containers for winter greens. This is the last month to sow carrot seeds; use onion sets rather than seeds now for better results. Clear finished summer vegetables or dig in leafy crops. Add manure-enriched compost and lime to heavily cropped soil, and leave the soil exposed to winter frost. Lawn Care: With lawns remaining moist and soft, and frost approaching, raise mower blades to maintain a longer grass length to protect your lawn roots as growth slows. Note: I have now just caught up on my Garden design work. If you need advice or help to plan a garden, contact me. Phone: 0274430256 Email: linda.lsw@gmail.com Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in Waitaki May 7th 2025

What a difference a rain makes during Autumn; however, some areas will still need a good soak, as it is the shallow-rooted trees and shrubs that need help before winter. I have lost aged maples because of dry Autumn conditions, so I now always give them all a good soak before winter. Other shallow-rooted shrubs that may be looking for a good soaking are rhododendrons, azaleas, camellias, daphne, hydrangeas, lilacs, cornus (dogwood), buxus, and viburnums.   Ready compost should be going down fast onto gardens to make room for autumn leaves, annual weeds, and lawn clippings to refill the bins for autumn compost.Potting seedlings: I have been potting up well-grown seedlings before the nights get colder, because they are straight from seed trays frost cloth has gone on at night. I remove it on sunny days but once we start getting frosts it will remain on until spring. Remove water trays from pots now, soil in pots should stay damp from now on. Potted plants should never be waterlogged throughout winter, as this will lead to plant roots freezing and rotting. This is a great time to make new perennial beds or reorganise existing beds, with perennial clumps increasing in size annually, they soon overfill a space. Lift overgrown clumps, break up and replant some of the youngest growth from the perimeter. Healthy vigorous plants can be reduced by putting a sharp spade in where you would like a reduction, then lifting the cut portion out without disturbing the remaining plant. I had to do this almost annually in my past large garden with asters, phlox, aubretia, small grasses, hostas, and herbs like sage, thyme, and lemon balm.  Rockery plants can be divided now as well. Once plants have been sectioned and rearranged, cover the soil around plants with compost to encourage new root growth, Compost also helps to keep perennial beds warmer through the colder months. All old leaves from my hellebores  (winter roses) have now been removed, they are budding up for a winter display, a fortnightly liquid feed can be given now if you feel they need boosting. Further in land it would be advisable to leave some top growth on to give frost protection to soft new growth, once hardened remove all leaves to display flowers. Lilies, this is the main time to shift or divide old, overgrown clumps of lilies. Be careful not to break the fleshy scales and to retain all the basal roots. Don't pull the old stems away from the bulb as it leaves a hole where water can enter and cause rot, just cut old stems short and bend. Never allow Lilly bulbs to dry out while out of the ground. I plant lilies on a little river sand and cover with compost, which has had blood and bone added. May is the planting month for tulips  bulbs should be in retail outlets when they open, plant them at least 8 inches (20cm) deep in a  well drained sunny spot . Vegetables: Continue planting strawberry plants, raising the beds where drainage is suspect, and adding manure-rich compost. There is still a good choice of veg seedlings on offer for planting before the soil gets too cold, warm autumn soil gets roots off to a good start before growth slows. Fruit: Feijoas are plumping up and our NZ cranberries (myrtus ugni) are ripe for eating, also figs should be ready along with walnuts and hazelnuts  so still a lot of gathering happening. Cheers, Linda.