Gardening in North Otago 9th November 2016

Blossom almost over for another year and on trees longer than usual with the absence of October winds. "But oh", the Rhododendrons and deciduous azalea's how lovely they are right now, in my view equal to any beautiful tropical flowers. One or two my roses started to flower this week, a little later than usual because I pruned late, the new growth is healthy and with the on and off again rain and continuing evening chill they should stay that way. I mentioned noticing aphids last week, yes they are colonizing on new buds but using the index finger and thumb removal method I am managing to keep it under control without resorting to spray just yet. Aphids winter over on the underside of last year's hellebore leaves, if you have not done so already remove them because fresh new leaves are popping up now. If you do not want hellebore seedlings germinating all through the garden cut out spent flowers now before seed is dropped. Peony roses are starting to flower, supports under them help to hold up the heavy flower heads. I have tall wire supports shaped like a u at the top that are pushed into the ground with the rounded top in place to let them flop over and stay in place. They need lots of water and benefit from liquid fertiliser. If you planted new crowns for this season it would pay to let only one flower develop on these to allow growth to go into the crowns, then cut the one blooming flower off before it makes seed pods. Clump form much faster if no blooms are produced for the first two years, Peony roses need full sun and do not like to be smothered by other plants. Lavenders are budding up with the absence,( so far) of spittle bugs, if these bugs do become a problem for you spraying will not work, the spittle surrounding them is a barrier to pesticide. A forceful hosing will dislodge them and hopefully drown a few. Some hybrid clematis are looking beautiful right now, Hybrid's are those especially large flowered varieties, not the invasive pink and white montana type. You have to be quick in training hybrids where you want them to go while the trailers are still soft, they too like a lot of feeding to take them to great heights. Manure, deep down with a little lime added when planting is beneficial. Don't worry if you have one with no buds just yet they all have different flowering times, If you planted one this year let it flower then cut it to the ground, this will make it send up more shoots and you will have a much bushier and stronger climber. Hybrids can also wilt and die for no reason if this happens cut it to the ground but don't be dig it out because I have known some to shoot away again the following year with no sign of wilt. I have been filling the gaps in the flower garden with old fashioned cottage flowers like cosmos, love in the mist, salvia blue bedder, Clary sage, and lavatera. These are all taller flowering annuals planted close together so they hold each other up. The more plants put in the less room for weeds to grow is the plan. All the plants mentioned will be flowering at Christmas, and then for ages after if dead headed regularly. Vegetables Still perfect Spring weather for growing all veg now the ground is so warm and moist. Board beans are doing well with no sign of rust, could it be the pinch of potash I put in when planting? Peas are romping up netting and beans are in ready to climb. Keep planting veg seeds and plants, a few at a time so you can have the continuous thing happening. No night beetles about yet, they should not be far away and ready to feast on new tree leaves, the damage they cause to established trees is not that noticeable but newly planted fruit and prunus trees can be striped of leaves. Leaves will re-grow and fruits will continue to make growth. Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in North Otago November 2nd 2016

Gardens will be now at the soggy blossom stage after a relatively wind free blooming, pink Kanzan blossom for once was not blown off before it's time allowing trees to create a pink glow about North Otago. Such a treat not to be lugging hose's about yet, the ground is warm and moist and ready for planting, weeds are small for hoeing and easy pulling and weed spray is now working in the rough areas, so all is pretty straight forward for those who have the TIME to enjoy the rhythm of spring. Birds feeding young will be making a mess in gardens and on paths searching for worms, so annoying to have newly planted annuals scratched out daily. I have found strips of shade cloth weighed down with stones covering the front planting will keep the birds off until new plants have settled in and filled out to cover exposed worm filled soil. Rhododendrons, deciduous azaleas and peony roses have taken over from camellias now displaying a dazzling range of colours, those early flowering rhododendrons can now have spent blooms removed before seeds sets, especially those newly planted, energy is needed for growth not making seeds. There is a point on the spent bloom where it snaps off without disturbing the new leaf growth coming through, once you find this point snapping off past blooms becomes easy. My roses are budding up, but I see green fly has arrived and a few new leaves have had to be removed where I spotted rust....already??? because I mulch thickly in our garden old leaves with rust spores would have escaped the clean up in early winter, a fortnightly spray with pesticide/ fungicide combined will be the answer. It pays to spray on a dull day so the sun will not burn through droplets and damage new leaves. No problem when the leaves have toughened up to spray in the sun. Wisterias are at putting on a display as well now, once flowering is over energy will go into putting out many long leaders, if your wisteria has reached the distance and spread required all of these leaders need to be removed, flower spurs develop on old wood year after year, if new leaders are left they will strive to be aged wood and become heavy un-needed branches. Birds feeding young will be making a mess in gardens and on paths searching for worms, Lawns: Lush is the word for lawns and the whole country side, long may the moisture and sun continue. If un-sprayed soft, sweet grass clippings as mulch on gardens will keep the weeds down and add humus to soil if added only thick enough to keep out light. Get it around trees and shrubs to keep moisture in soil right out to the drip line, spread it around rather than leave it in heaps. Fruit: Trees and fruit bushes should be well on their way to making fruit, we have had an abundance of bumble bees as well as busy honey bees this spring. Keeping moisture up to them when the season heats up is the next job, putting a mulch around all will help retain moisture already in the ground. A edging to hold mulch when winds arrive will be needed for my fruit trees and a cover of gravel on top will mean I will not have to water often. Vegetables: What fantastic weather for growing veg, once planted it's all about keeping the weeds down to give them room to grow. Pumpkin plants I put in last week are romping away as are the corn seedlings. I plant corn in a square patch rather than a row for them to grow and hold each other up. Potatoes are loving this weather so are worth planting if you have not already done so, tomatoes also will be soon needing staked, if you have no green / tunnel house plant a couple of cherry tomato plants in pots and place in a sheltered, well lit spot, they will produce all season. Russian red bush tomato's also grow well out side in a warm spot.  

Gardening in North Otago October 28th 2016

And now it is November and this spring is proving to be as spring should be, warmth with moisture and much growth. Still lovely blossom dripping from trees here with prunus kanzan and shimidsu sakura taking center stage. My roses were pruned late so are only just budding, ready to take over from all the camellias, rhododendrons, viburnums, lilacs and so much more. Iris's are pushing through fat buds, I have needed to remove mulch from iris rhizomes, they push themselves out of the ground now to be exposed to the sun. As the mass's of forget -me-not growing here start to make seed plants now need to be sorted from home grown stocks to fill gaps as they are cut back. Some gardeners pull forget-me-not out after flowering, I cut it back hard and it clumps up with fresh green leaf through summer to flower again next spring. In my stocks are cosmos, marigolds, , petunias, bedding dahlia's and blue salvia will go where the red tulips were for a summer show. Cat-mint edging is starting to show colour, while it is happening sections with roots can be pulled from the main clump and potted up to grow a root ball, then planted out as edging in another part of the garden, cat-mint is such a pretty edging which can be cut back after the first flowering to flower again. Trim spent blooms from flowering perennials and daisy bushes often to keep them bushy and continuously in flower, if you let flower heads go to seed the bush or plants will become woody. Cut chrysanthemums and perennial asters back now so they will grow up a second time but hopefully not so tall and fall all over the place, their flowering time is not until the end of Summer. Chrysanthemum tips can be put into river sand to make roots for new plants. Planting on a slope: Spring is a good time to plant out a slope or bank, the ground is moist and plant roots are growing fast which means they will get a good hold before the dreaded winds arrive. Spray out all weeds, they will compete with moisture that your plants will need. If it is possible terracing a steep slope with rocks or sleepers would be beneficial to hold moisture around the roots. If this cannot be done try not to disturbed soil/clay in areas that are not being planted. If the soil is disturbed and broken up it will wash away with rain and watering. Planting; Dig a hole that is deep into the bank and shallow at the front, (an angle hole) this will create a hollow reserve for water. Make sure it dips down at the back for water to pool. Use stones around each plant, this will help in preventing wind blowing soil away from the roots. Choose plants that grow in dry conditions, like South African plants; grevillea, leucadendron, Proteas, ask the Garden center assistant what survives well in a pot without a lot of watering. The plants they can leave for a while and they still look good when dried out. I have massed lupins to fill the gaps on my bank until all the other plants get bigger. Soft growth off some of my hedges can be trimmed this month, if a hedge has reached the height required best to take the soft growth off before the foliage beneath gets too much protection from top growth, Winter hardened the under growth and it should still be strong enough not to get sunburned when exposed to sun. Leave box hedging until the end of the month, if trimmed too soon new growth keeps pushing out, all soft trimmings can go in the compost or on the garden as mulch. Grass, Grass. Grass...So much mowing! If like us you have not had to spray lawn weeds out yet you can sprinkle your clippings around the garden as humus but not in thick piles, spread it out so it can break down fast. Your garden can take as much fresh green growth as you throw at it now the warmth is here. Resown patches left from grass grub and moss removal damage will repair fast now if water is kept up and birds kept off, try covering with shade cloth until seed has germinated, works for me. Veg Garden Growth is amazing this spring with the warmth and moisture we are receiving, potatoes are up for mounding, root veg ready for thinning, leaf veg is heartening up and no white butterflies here to annoy them yet, I am picking young broad beans that keep producing heaps of flowers, no rust nor an aphid to be seen! runner beans have popped through so the ground is warm enough for all beans now and corn plus all from the pumpkin family. Fruit Fruit bushes and trees are responding to spring as they should, the bees have done a wonderful pollinating job and we should all get bumper crops with the right amount of sun and moisture. Mulch around the drip line of all fruiting trees and shrubs to keep moisture from evaporating while fruit is forming.....it's all on now for growing our own food. Cheers Linda.

Gardening in North Otago October 18th 2016

Warm spring days and yes....that October wind once again to spread blossom confetti around North Otago but Spring bulbs and blossom are still a joy to behold as I drive past town and country gardens, ending much too quickly as trees become draped in fresh new leaves. In the garden growth is rampant, Gardeners will have been tossing up between a getaway in the long weekend or getting stuck in! for us it was getting stuck in because of the beautiful wedding that took place in our garden on Labor Saturday. A tulip display in the main garden came to grief during the strong winds last week so I dug them up with green tops still attached, healed them in the ground until die back has finished then will store them in a dry place away from hungry rats. That garden got compost dug in and is now awaiting blue saliva to put on a little more growth before planting for the summer display. Many other bulbs are finishing now, I let only bluebells make seed and cut spent flowers stems out of all other bulbs but leaving leaves in tact to die back into the bulb. If spent daffodils become a nuisance or look untidy bundle them together in a knot to reduce the spread, bulbs need the nutrition from photosynthesis in the leaves to feed them for next years bloom and if you have really big clumps of bulbs choking your garden space there will always be someone willing to bring a spade and take half, once died down, maybe put a sign at the gate saying "Bulbs to give away, bring a spade"! Lavenders, I have had to pull quite a few out this year because they have reached the end of growing nicely, after a trim back at the end of Winter they were not making a lot of new growth, Just a bit here and there with most of the plant staying woody. If you have the odd lavender doing this pull it out and replace it with a fresh plant. Cut back fuchsias now to encourage fresh new growth, most of last years hard wood can be cut back hard. Fuchsia cuttings can be taken at any time of the year except winter but earlier in the year like right now will get best results while we are pinching out the growing tips to stimulate a bushy habit. These pinched out tips can become cuttings, pinch out below the tip and past the next set of leaves. Your cutting should have the tip leaves, stem, then two more leaves and another section of short stem. Remove the lower leaves, dip the cutting into rooting powder and plant into river sand right up over the nodule's remaining from where the two removed leaves were. Pop cuttings in sheltered shade and keep moist until they produce roots then pot up, protect through next winter and plant out this time next year. Keep an eye on tall growing chrysanthemums they start making growth now, I cut back the first new growth before they make hard wood. They do not flower until the Autumn so by removing the first new growth they should regrow shorter and be more manageable. Some hedges have been trimmed here, the soft trimmings can be spread around the garden along with fresh grass clippings, too early yet to trim box hedges, wait until the new growth firms up more. The perfect time to trim box in late spring is when there are a few overcast days in a row, hot sun burns new undergrowth, dull days will allow time to recover. It's time to think about Dahlias in the garden for summer colour. If you have a sunny spot that needs a bit of brightening up how about putting in a few dahlia tubers they are so reliable and there are some beautiful shades and varieties on offer now, tall, medium and dwarf. They are just starting to make a move so if you want colour to continue when the spring show is over dahlias will do the job. Dahlias like a warm, full sun, free draining spot, the tubas will rot if planted in ground that stays wet. Vegetables: I touched on Tomatoes last week because they are in the shops now. For those with glass houses, prepare the soil well by digging in good organic compost. This will need to have been heated to the point of all fungus disease being eradicated. Because our summers here in North Otago can be cool a glass or tunnel house is the a must if wanting to be a serious tomato grower. However a glass house is a perfect incubator for fungus disease during nights and dull days when moisture is not taken up quickly by plants, never let tomato plant leaves go into the night wet. There are a lot of tomato varieties to choose from. Beefsteak, the big tomato best for sandwiches & cooking, Early girl, stars producing early and keeps on until late in the season, Potentate, medium/small firm with moderate acidity and low in sugar, Money maker, medium size and good flavor , Doctor Walter is the very low acid tomato Cherry tomato's, the plant you can grow in a pot inside or on a porch, great for Children's lunch boxes. Russian red a tomato to grow outside in a sunny spot protected from the wind. Heirloom tomatoes have become popular, they don't look great but they have the great taste of yesteryear. There are others that I have not mentioned, nearly all need staked and tied up in the glass house and ALL tomato's like sun all day, 6 to 8 hours and it helps the fruit if there are fewer leaves on the plants. Tomato leaves compete for nutrients, create unwanted shade and harbor disease. Keep planting vegetable seeds directly into the garden but not too thickly mix seeds with fine soil when sowing to avoid a lot of thinning. Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in North Otago October 11th 2016

Such beauty all around, there are new bantam hatchlings here to add to the Spring happenings, the poor little chickens are traumatized daily by Scruff the dog letting them know a thing or two outside the cage!! Still busy weeding to keep our garden right for the spring tours, the ground is just right for planting with moisture holding below the surface and the suns warmth on the ground. Remember to keep dead heading and feeding flowering pansies and polyanthus as long as there is a chill in the air they will keep flowering until it gets warmer, If you feel they have done all they are going to do dig out, cut old leaves back and plant in a cool shady place where they can be left until planting out next year. Coastal gardens will be quite away ahead of gardens inland where they will still be getting reasonable frosts from time to time. Late frosts on roses new growth can be a problem but don' t be too concerned if new growth has been frosted, rose leaves recover very fast and will have new buds to open in six weeks time. When the nights start warming up any dampness left by hosing on rose leaves will encourage mildew but keep food up to your roses while they are making buds, it's hungry roses that get diseased. For a quick result slow release fertiliser is good right now on any summer flowering plants and shrubs. I have been spot spraying convolvulus, couch and clover, fresh new weed growth is coming through the mulch now so its the right time to zap them on a non windy day. If roses get even a sniff of hormone spray it will deform the foliage and the rose bush will eventually die so don't risk spraying on a windy day. Camellias can be trimmed and shaped when finished flowering, take out branches from the middle, enough to let a bird fly through, this lets the light in to help form next years buds. I have noticed some of my front shrub plantings are too big now, hiding good planting areas behind, it takes only a few years for gardens to close in with out us really noticing and what a difference can be made by opening up and creating distance for a new and interesting planting. One area opened in our garden is deep enough to allow me to mass plant with blue bells and include a new maple tree and it was only two scrappy over grown shrubs removed which has made this difference. The sun flower seeds planted into trays a few weeks ago have now been planted out, because they are still small snails and slugs will be attracted to them so I have surrounded them with prickly berberis cuttings as a deterrent. Also up and almost ready to plant out are cosmos, larkspur, nasturtium and marigolds which will help fill deep boarders. If you are keen to attract monarch butterflies on the coast, plant swan plants now but protect from late frosts until established. Vegetables Keep an eye on potatoes that are through the ground, frost cloth may still be needed depending on where you live. Seeds are popping up in no time now so get them in ready for salad time. Pumpkin, squash, corn and courgette seeds can go in now but if you prefer to buy plants be sure to harden them off outside in a protected place for a while before planting them out. Glass houses will be ready for the many varieties of tomato plants on offer. If you have no glass or tunnel house tomatoes are happy growing in containers or planter bags on a sunny deck or patio, with staking and training as you would in a glass house. Smaller varieties are easiest to manage e.g. Red Robin, Russian red or Totem in containers and the cherry tomato tumbling Tom in large hanging baskets. Plant all in a tomato mix, water as needed and liquid feed fortnightly. Why not try basil plants growing among tomatoes to repel white fly, the general consensus is that basil - both plants and extracts made from the leaves can be an effective natural deterrent for white fly, mosquitoes, tomato horn-worm, aphids and house fly as well as being a wonderful culinary enhancement with tomatoes. Our graphic designer Daughter has produced a 2017 calendar related to our garden (Rockvale Garden) giving North Otago garden advice for each month of the year. On offer at Paper plus, could be a little something under the tree at Christmas for a Gardner. Cheers, Linda

Gardening in North Otago October 5th 2016

Continuous dull days and rain here on the coast for the second week of School holidays is uninspiring for gardeners but gentle on new spring growth.

Tulips: are taking center stage, dull days will allow them to bloom longer. Tulips are best left after flowering until all green has been absorbed by the bulb, if like me you have a main display of them and need to get other plants in, dig them up with green still attached to the bulb, bed them (bundled) into a spot in the garden where not noticed until die back is finished, then store in a box where rats can not get at them. Dead head all spring bulbs as they finish flowering, leaving them to make seed will weaken bulbs but leaves are left on to feed back into bulbs, with the exception of blue bells, they spread faster if allowed to drop seed.

Roses: are well in leaf now, sun is needed to get them budding and keep them disease free, to avoid mildew problems don't let rose foliage go into the night wet on dry mild nights. Well fed roses are less likely to become diseased, fortnightly folia feeding and slow release fertiliser around the drip line will do the trick. 

I need to spot spray convolvulous and couch grass because they are growing so fast, but if roses get even a sniff of hormone spray foliage will become deformed growing wispy yellow leaves and the rose bush will eventually die, so don't risk spraying on a windy day.  

Our Grandies are enjoying the "My little garden" Super market promotion seed pots, when I was little a seed growing into a plant was true magic to me and this is the reaction I am seeing from these little ones, let the magic continue to become food. After planting sun flower seeds into trays only a week ago they are now up and will be soon large enough to plant out, they do best planted straight into the ground but I have little bantams who scratch out, and the seed hence pre-growing them. Sun flowers are a quick result for small Children to plant then watch grow taller than themselves.

Compost: is heating up and working well with the addition of new grass clippings, mine are open heaps layered with soft grass and hedge clippings, manure, soil, and seedless weeds, The warm rain will have been good working right through the middle to create the heat needed and a sprinkle of lime to sweeten it all up.

Vegetables: Potatoes are loving the warm ground, mine are up and ready for mounding.....hopefully this weekend! Pumpkin, squash, corn and courgette seeds can go in now, if you prefer to buy plants be sure to harden them off outside in a protected place for a while before planting them out. If your vegetable garden has been disappointing in the past with plants not growing as well as you would like you could do a Ph test and if the PH of your soil needs to be raised you can add lime. I sprinkle lime on my compost heaps in spring and Autumn which then goes on the garden with the added bonus of lime loving worms. Dolomite lime is less likely to drastically change the PH, usually application rates are 2 to 3 pounds per 100 square feet of garden area, every second year to raise the pH from 5.5 to 6.5.  Some veg that like a more acid soil so don't go adding lime unless your soil needs sweetening.

DIY ph test can be done using vinegar: Collect 1 cup of soil from different parts of your garden and put 2 spoonfuls into separate containers, add 1/2 cup of vinegar to the soil if it fizzes you have alkaline soil, with a pH between 7 and 8. If it doesn’t fizz after doing the vinegar test, add distilled water to the other container until 2 teaspoons of soil are muddy. Add 1/2 cup baking soda, if it fizzes you have acidic soil, most likely with a pH between 5 and 6. If soil doesn’t react at all it is neutral with a pH of 7 you are very lucky!

Distilling water can be done by 3/4 fill a large jam pot, set on med/ high to create a slow boil, place a glass bowl (receiver flask) into your pot, making sure it floats well enough to allow for some water to be poured into it without sinking. Place a con-caved lid on the pot upside down. Fill the top of the lid with ice cubes, condensation will enable the bowl to fill with distilled water.

Acid Soil Crops: The following crops prefer a pH of 4. to 5.5 Blackberry,Blueberry,Cranberry,Parsley,Potato,Raspberry.

Somewhat Acid Soil Crops: These can tolerate a pH of 5.5 to 6.5 Apple,Basil,Carrot,Cauliflower,Chervil,Corn,Cucumber,Dill,Garlic,Parsley,Pepper,Pumpkin Radish, Rhubarb, Tomato,Turnip. 

Moderately Alkaline Soil Plants: The following crops will tolerate a pH of 6.0 to 7.0 or greater: Artichoke, Asparagus Bean, pole, Bean, lima, Beet, Broccoli, Brussels sprouts, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Celery, Chinese cabbage, Celeriac Celery Chinese cabbage, Chive, Cress, Endive/escarole, Fennel, Gourd, Horseradish, Jerusalem Artichoke, Kale, Leek, Lettuce, Marjoram, Mustard, Okra, Onion, Oregano, Pak choi, Parsnip, Pea, Radish, Rhubarb, Sage, Spinach, Squash, summer, Sunflower, Tarragon, Tomatillo.

Very Acid to Alkaline Soil Tolerant Plants: The following crops have the greatest tolerance for a wide range of soil acidity or alkalinity, from about 5.0 to 7.0: Alpine strawberry, Carrot, Cauliflower, Corn, Cucumber, Dill, Garlic, Parsley, Parsnip, Pepper,Tomato.Turnip. Phew! a pretty long winded list but can be kept for future reference.

Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in North Otago September 27th 2016

It is all on now with weeds after the few days of drizzle last week, and why, oh why in the School holidays??. however from an early Spring point of view it couldn't be better. 

While weeds are small my most used tool is a hoe to keep weeds from taking hold, especially chick weed and biddy-bid which is worked on here to eradicate every Spring so have no idea why as many seed from both still germinate everywhere! 

A hoe will not work with couch grass and convolvulus this needs to be dug out while ground is soft and runners can be taken right back under the ground to where they begin, it is very satisfying to know they will not grow back. I spot spray in badly affected areas if no other plants close by can be affected ( Never where food is grown) 

Keeping the light off bare soil with mulch will stop annual weed seeds germinating, compost, un-sprayed grass clippings, (only thick enough to block light) pea straw, that great mulch, which looks like soil fromPukeuri meat works,(around established plants) and the well cooked mulch from the Waitaki resource recovery park will all do the trick in blocking light. Mulching is also the answer to holding moisture in the ground. 

Garden edging with perennials is another way of covering the soil and a way to stop birds scratching soil out over paths, If you are looking for a pretty mat forming garden edge and have a clump of cat mint beginning to make new growth, dig the clump up and break into many new pieces with roots and pot them up. When roots fill pots they are ready to be planted as a front edge.

If you have not feed plants, roses or shrubs do it now, slow release granules, powdered plant food (watered in), if you have home compost ready add to some blood and bone and sulphate of pot ash this will give food and a flowering and fruiting component to plants and trees. I often mention using old stable manure around roses to keep them going over their long flowering period, don't dig the manure in as this can cause root damage, watering will take it to the roots as required. Extend food just beyond the drip line where the most active feeding roots are.

Having  saved a lot of sun flower seed from last years flowering, they were planted two weeks ago and are now up and doing well, I just love seeing those big happy flower faces on mass following the sun. They will be planted out in groups to stand high behind existing shrubs and any sunny bare areas that need brightening up.

I have been noticing a few cherry blossom trees with root stock branches being left to grow. By this I mean any branches that develop below the graft (where the branches begin at the top of the trunk); these should be cut off while still small. If allowed to develop into branches they will take over the whole tree. All flowering cherry trees are grafted onto a strong root stock of a very ordinary white blossom tree so if you have a tree with lovely pink or white blossom and you notice some blossom looks different then most likely it will be a branch growing from below the graft, cut it right out

Lawns 

The buzz of lawn mowers is in the air again, cutting too low will let light in for weeds to grow let them thicken up before those drying winds arrive. Grass seed I planted a couple of weeks back has struck, letting me know the ground is warm enough for resowing more bare patches.

Vegetable garden

Lots to do in the veg garden right now, I have been madly sowing seeds over the last few weeks and now there is time consuming pricking out to be done, just as well the day's are longer now!

All the salad veg can go in along with tomatoes, potatoes, peas, I think the ground is even be warm enough for runner and dwarf beans. My board beans came through the winter well and have started to bean, It is wonderful have an abundance of choice again and to be picking our own fresh produce. 

Fruit: It's all up to the bee's now.

Cheers, Linda