Gardening in Waitaki April 14th 2022

Rockvale Garden on the hill as I remember it.

Lovely autumn days over the last week, with leaf colours becoming more stunning by the day and a very noticeable drop in temperature morning and night with a nice drop of rain to encourage our newly sown grass to grow. The Easter break is usually a nice, settled time to have a clean up in the garden. If shrubs and climbers need to be cut back it should be done now while there is still time for things to recover, harden off and bud up again before June. Peony roses: If you are planning to move a peony the best time is now in autumn when the peonies are nearing or in dormancy. Peonies start to become dormant when the foliage is rapidly losing colour. Cool soil temperatures allow peonies to start growing a new root system quickly before the ground freezes. The site to plant should be sunny and well drained, deep fertile soil is best but they can still do ok in quite poor soils as long as they never become waterlogged (especially over winter). Planting depth is important, too deep means they will spend time pushing up to the right depth, find the uppermost bud on the crown and plant so that the base of the bud is 5 cm (2") from the soil surface. Don't expect much growth in the first year. Leaf die back adds strength to the tuba so foliage needs to be left on then cut down to ground level in autumn and disposed of which may help prevent carry-over of fungal infections. Tree peonies stems above the ground remain alive, only remove diseased leaves and wait until spring to prune dead wood stems out. Hellebores will benefit from fortnightly feeding now to encourage better blooms. Remove old foliage, but in colder areas it is best to leave some top growth on to protect the new growth, flowers will soon shoot up past the old leaves. Destroy all removed old leaves and destroy because greenfly winter over on the underside of hellebore leaves. Only feed bulbs and plants that are due to flower now, all other plants will be slowing their growth right down to sleep through the winter. Plants like camellia, azaleas and rhododendrons that have been tucked away in a shady spot over the hot months should be moved into a sunny spot now. Shrubs in pots get root bound and hungry, If you fed them when flowering finished they should be fine. If not then give them a little fertiliser and water well to give them a boost. Seedlings and rooted cuttings need as much sun as they can get over the colder months, they may not look as though they are growing as they will not put out any new growth on top but with the warmth of the sun on pots they will be making lots of feeder roots. Keep layering leaves on the compost along with animal manure, soft garden green waste, hedge trimmings and un-sprayed grass clippings. Add some leftover compost from your last lot to the layers. Give heaps and bins a good watering from time to time to get things started. With the very warm days we have had compost heaps should be building up heat now which will remain working well into the coldest months then they will sit until the days get longer and the ground warms again. There is still time on the coast to divide border plants, perennials and rock plants, they will make new roots before growth stops. In very cold districts leave the dead top growth on, safer to remove in spring but If you are mulching with straw this will do the same job. This is the best time to shift small evergreen shrubs and conifers, as long as the root ball is not too well spread they should transplant well. Rhododendrons, camellias and azaleas can be shifted now as well. Lawns have really picked up since the nights have cooled and dew is back. Spot spraying clover and flat weeds works best in the heat of the day when plants are thirsty, I only spot spray where needed because I would hate to kill hard working worms. Grass grub damaged areas can be raked out and resown now, thankfully germination of grass seed is very fast during autumn while the ground is still warm. Next time we get rain gypsum and fine compost can be spread over compacted lawns to soften and add humus. Vegetables I planted broad beans and carrots this week and have had to have the hose out to give the veg garden a good soak. Remove shading from glass and tunnel houses now and reduce watering. Leeks should be available now for planting, they are planted laying down in a trench that will hold water to get them going, they will soon sit up and grow fast. Fruit If you have apple trees laden, pick most of them unripe and store them in a cool dry place for late, but leave as many as you intend to eat on the tree to ripen naturally, nothing nicer than ripe fruit straight from the tree. Some will still be picking those delicious late peaches. It's grape picking time again while it is still dry but not for me anymore, I used to pick from my small vineyard to make into a few special bottles of wine....... or vinegar !!! which could be turned into Homemade Weed Killer, 1 gallon of white vinegar, 1/2 cup salt, dish detergent (any brand), Empty spray bottle. Put salt in the empty spray bottle and fill it the rest of the way up with white vinegar. Add a squirt of dish detergent. This solution works best if you use it on a hot day. ( not on lawns). Spray it on the weeds in the morning, as the day heats up it will do its work. (However bad the wine turned out there was no waste.) Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in Waitaki April 6th 2022

Another mild April week just past, this is such a lovely settled time of year to enjoy before we get reminded that winter is approaching. Leaf raking will have cranked up a gear now as trees shed more and more leaves and there is still lots of cutting back, bulb planting and shifting shrubs that have become overcrowded. Shrubs and hedges growth will be starting to harden to cope with the coming cold so get any hedge trimming done but don't be too hard on them, spring is the time to take them back hard. Roses I know how tempting it can be to want to keep deadheading roses when blooms have finished, but resist because you will only be encouraging new soft growth which will result in die back during the first harsh frosts. Leaving the spent flowers to run to seed helps harden rose wood ready for the big winter prune in July/August. Hydrangea stems will be hardening as well and flower heads are either going brown or changing into new stunning autumn shades, keep water up while they are looking so pretty and leave the flowers on for ages yet. Further inland they can be left all winter to protect new growth. Resist taking old flower heads off just yet, wait until stems are harder here on the coast. Leucodendrons develop rich colour as days and nights become colder, picked bracts will last in a vase for weeks, even months. Picking the bracts is a must to keep both leucadendrons and proteas from becoming top heavy and blowing over. They resent any form of phosphates. potassium and nitrates fertiliser, a little blood and bone in spring will keep them looking good. Camellias are budding up now and some will need opening up to let in light needed for buds to develop well, remove inward facing and cross over branches. Feed camellias and rhododendrons with acid fertiliser watered in well and mulch, then forget about them until they reward you in spring. Azaleas are different. They need food, as soon as they have finished flowering but if you did not feed them then feed them along with Rhododendrons and camellias. On the coast prune back perennial wallflowers now to encourage new growth for a good winter flowering, do the same to Marguerite daisies. Further inland take hardwood cuttings of both and protect over winter. Break up clumps of viola like Maggie Mott and the clumping primula vulgaris, plant sections with roots attached into pots or trays, they will grow and clump up ready to be planted out in spring, both of these make lovely edging plants. Keep planting all the bulbs on offer, ranuncula an anemones also to add a vibrant or soft mid height colour to an early spring garden. I really enjoyed the drifts of blue from Agapanthas around town during the last couple months. Now finished spent flower stalks need to be cut off and clumps can be broken up, both large and dwarf varieties to fill gaps. Once shifted they need a lot of water to get them started in a new spot. Keep planting well grown evergreen shrubs and perennials as there is still time to get them settled in the ground before winter. Vegetable garden: I have mentioned growing a green crop in vacant areas of the vegetable garden, oats is probably the best one to plant in autumn, it will germinate and grow in no time, dig in while still soft and green. First timers might like to follow the green manure suggestion of using blue lupin as a nitrogen additive, mustard as a good soil conditioner in spring and summer, changing back to oats in the autumn. Vegetable seedlings will be targeted by birds and white butterflies right now so best to cover them with open weave frost cloth while small. Birds will not be so interested when the plants plump out a bit. Broad beans can be planted now, try a little potash in the soil just below the bean when planted, it is said to help prevent rust. Bring pumpkins in and store in a dry aired place, protect the last tomatoes and peppers from frost, the sun is still warm enough to ripen them a little longer. When nights become really cold vines can be dug up and hung in good light on a warm porch or well lit shed to finish ripening on the vine. Fruit: Walnuts are falling along with the leaves, late ripening peaches should be picked now before the birds take them all. Feijoas seem to be plentiful right now as well, Feijoa, vanilla and fresh ginger jam on a warm scone is an autumn treat. We are settling into our new home, the back lawn seed has been sprayed on, gardens are going in and Scruff the dog is being trained to be a town dog after spending his eight years roaming a large vegetated property. The way he is carrying on I feel he thinks he has to not only defend our new home but the whole subdivision as well!! Cheers, Linda.

Making a start on my new gravel garden.

Gardening in North Otago April 1st 2022

Autumn Oamaru botanical Gardens.

Our brand new garden is coming along nicely, it is so good to be planting again and our new back lawn is about to be sown, (so exciting) but Scruff the dog is having trouble knowing where to relieve himself here with all the concrete and gravel connected to a new build, plus no trees, bushes or lawn. So it's a lead and off to the scrub land at the back of the subdivision which is all very strange for a once country dog I am sure. So much needs to be done in established gardens right now, weeding, hedge trimming, cutting back and clearing out summer growth, spraying, mulching, building new compost heaps then all those leaves ....(Whew, no pressure). As leaves turn to gold and red, North Otago pastures and lawns are looking spring green with the unusual autumn rain. Cuttings: I usually take cuttings in April while the ground is still holding warmth to stimulate root growth. I have large deep trays packed with moist river sand ready for cuttings waiting to be taken. Purple sage, geranium, breath of heaven, buxus, fuchsia, escallonia, succulent's lavender rosemary, lonicera, hebe's can all be taken now. Take time to look around the garden to see what plants flowered well over summer and those that have not because of trees getting taller and wider and blocking out light. If you notice dahlias not flowering well from lack of light and moisture and hidden behind other plants, they can be dug up and transplanted into a sunnier spot once frost has knocked them back, leaving the top growth on to die off back into the tubers. Other plants suffering the same probably all need a lot of sunshine and light to perform well. If looking to improve the look of established gardens a front border will do the trick, there are so many suitable plants that will be multiplying around your garden like lambs ear, with it's lovely silver textured leaf, variegated and dwarf iris, blue grass, dwarf agapanthus, hellebores, purple sage, thyme, erigeron daisy, thrift, plus heaps of other low growing evergreen plants that cuttings or divisions can be taken right now to create borders. All the plants I have mentioned look great planted en masse in long rows to formalise the look of a garden. The following flower seeds can be sown now: aquilegia, calendula (marigold), pansy, viola, lupins, stocks, sweet peas, dianthus and wall flowers, some will already be germinating around where these plants have been growing. I pot up the most worthy plants that nature supplies to be planted out either before or after winter depending on the maturity of them. Top dress lilies with blood and bone plus compost, one cup of blood and bone to each bucket of compost. If you need to shift lilies, never let them dry out, get them back in the ground straight away or store them in a wet towel until ready to transplant. April is a good time for wrenching shrubs and trees that need to be moved by digging around one half of their roots and leaving the other half untouched for a few months. Make a trench around the lifted roots and fill with soft compost, the cut roots will form new feeder roots into the compost which will make the eventual transplant cope better. Remember plants which have had their root system reduced should also have their top growth reduced. Lawns: Autumn is the best time to sow new lawns and resow any damaged lawn areas because the soil is warm for germination, nightly dews help with moisture and annual weeds will be slowing growth as days become shorter and nights colder. Resown patches can be covered with shade cloth to keep birds from eating seed. Veg and fruit Tomatoes need all the daylight hours now to ripen, remove all shading leaves. Sweet pepper plants that need more time to ripen can be dug up, put into a pot and placed under shelter to continue growing if there is any threat of frost and pumpkins harvested and stored with stalks still attached to prevent rot. Citrus trees in cooler areas, especially when young, should have a temporary roof for frost protection put in place. Grapes will be ripe to pick this month, net bunches to save them from feasting birds, or pick and store them unwashed in a plastic bag or air tight container and place at the back of your fridge crisper drawer. They thrive at about 30-32 degrees Fahrenheit with 90-95% humidity. Apples and pears are dripping from trees again, fresh fruit picked then eaten is such a treat, crisp and full of flavor. Appels store really well in a cool even temperature, if left in a warm place they ripen faster, I remember as a Child apples being bought by the box and stored in what was called the stone house, an Oamaru stone cool shed built into a soil bank at the back of our house with wire mesh windows to keep flies out as this was before families had fridges and meat would also be hung there. Cheers, Linda

Gardening in North Otago March 24/3/2022

What a nice wetting, soft rain we received here in North Otago, this Autumn is proving the dampest I can remember but leaves are turning and falling as they should be. Bob, Scruff, the cat and I have finally moved into our new home, what a huge job packing, shifting and unpacking 42 years of living in a 7 bedroomed home down to a 3 bedroom is like fitting a round into a square!!! However my new garden is waiting for me to make things happen once the garage is cleared of STUFF. Cutting will be full on in gardens with everything really tired now and wanting to make seed, when I started chopping back at this time of the year there is no stopping me from leaving destruction in my wake. While working your way around gardens, rake mulch off bearded iris's to allow rhizomes to bake in the sun and cut leaves back by two thirds. Shift any from shaded areas into sunny well drained locations. Iris's are well worth the trouble of growing and look wonderful planted together in their own bed enabling them to put a grand display on come spring. 6-8 weeks after blooming rhizomes can be divided leaving a chunk of rhizome and roots to every new division. If needed you can also divide and re potted clumps of water iris now. To re pot water iris line a plastic pot with sacking, or a chuxs kitchen cloth, place a generous amount of gravel on the bottom then some soil, a little stable manure, or slow release fertiliser granules well into the middle of the pot then plant the iris and add another thick layer of gravel. The gravel on the bottom and top helps to prevent fill and fertiliser leaching from the pot while at the same time weighting the pot down when the iris becomes top heavy. Submerge replanted iris back into the pond. If you have a pond that fills with leaves during Autumn why not cover the pond with netting ar shade cloth to catch them, if they break down in the pond they're a source of nutrients and can quickly overload the pond's natural nitrogen cycle, leaves that are not broken down, turn into sludge at the bottom of the pond. Remove seed heads from ornamental grass if you have not already done so, they just pull away with a rake. Clumps can also now be trimmed back if getting too big or divided by putting a spade through the middle and removing half. Sometimes I have to dig the whole grass out to do this, by putting the spade through once pulled apart while standing on one half of the clump. If you are thinking of adding Rose's, or more roses to your garden I suggest you look at rose variety books or go online to make your choices now, then get your order into a Garden center. New season roses will begin arriving in June and by ordering now you will be sure not to miss out. If ordering for a new rose bed be sure to take note of heights and widths because they will be all growing together and you would not want some out growing and shading others. All bought roses have been grafted onto a strong root stock but roses can be grown from Autumn cuttings on their own roots. Choose a strong new growth about the thickness of a pencil that has made hard wood, if cut from the bottom of the bush three or four cuttings can be taken. Strip all leaves, make a straight cut on the bottom and a slanted cut at a bud node on the top of each cutting. Dig a narrow slit into firm damp earth and push cuttings in straight cut down, then firm soil around cuttings and water in. These cuttings will not make roots until spring, shift and pot each one up when you notice buds swelling. Vegetables. March is an important month for planting winter veg, prepare prior to planting with compost, general garden fertiliser, I add lime to my compost then know the garden is getting it when compost is added. Beetroot, broccoli, brussel sprouts, cauliflower, spinach, and silverbeet seedlings and broad beans can be planted, covered with netting or frost cloth if they are troubled by birds or white butterflies. In colder areas seeds of broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower and brussel sprouts are best sown in trays for planting out later. A green manure cover crop will germinate quickly right now to be dug in before flowers develop, this will add enriched humus to soil. Blue lupin, mustard or oats are good options. Parsley can be grown from seed if sown now and perennial herbs such as, chives, mint, thyme, sage, and marjoram can be divided and replanted. Basil is a summer annual so should be harvested, dried or frozen before frost. Prepare garlic beds, sow heartsease (small wild pansy) alongside, a companion plant to garlic and onions. Manure, mulch and compost around fruit trees while the ground is warm. Late peaches should be almost ready to pick now. Feed citrus bushes with citrus fertiliser, they just keep on producing flowers and fruit. A Scruff update, he has reverted back to small dog syndrome since we have become townies, barking and jumping up on visitors, the postie in that red and yellow buggy makes him almost turn inside out!!! a stern talking to sends him off to take his frustration out on a squeaky dog toy we bought him. He has no grounds to be a master off now and he dropped his lead at my feet the other day ...telling me something?? The Lovely Botanical gardens are now our gardens. Cheers, Linda.

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Gardening in North Otago March 15th 2022

Late March and it still feels like summer here in North otago. Silver birch trees were always first to drop a carpet in my big garden so the leaf blower and rakes will be on the go again to fill the first of many wool packs I am sure. Leaves are so good added to compost bins and heaps layered with grass clippings, soft garden green waste and calf shed manure and sawdust mix. Layering is done now while days are warm, watering is required as layers are added to get things heating up and working before the cold of winter slows the heating process right down. Hedge trimmers will be out to give a final tidy up, shrubs tend to put on more growth during a warm autumn receiving rain. It might be a good time to mention the pruning and shaping of shrubs. Shrubs that have flowered on previous years growth like buddleias, rhododendrons, camellias, azaleas, ceanothus, forsythia, coleonema (breath of heaven), should always have this done, if needed while there is still enough growing season left for new growth to harden before the frosts start. In colder areas like Kurow this trimming should be done as soon as flowering has ended, with the exception of hydrangeas, the old growth can remain on through the winter to protect the new shoots and then cut back in spring. like lavenders, daisy bushes, hebes, rosemary, fuchsia are best left with some top growth on them now until the end of winter. They will make rapid new growth after being cut back in early spring. This month is the latest I feel to cut back natives like pittosporums and hebe's as they need to have new growth well grown and hard before winter, if you intend to shape them be quick or leave them until after winter. A tall pittosporum can have height reduced by removing the leader branch down to where you want the height without spoiling the overall shape of the bush. The rule of thumb is hedging plants such as photinia, box hedge, viburnum and teucrium can be cut any time during the growing season but I apply that only to here on the coast in late autumn. Late spring / summer is a safer time in colder areas. Hebe's let you know when they need trimmed back, if they are covered in flower heads gone to seed they need the spent flower heads trimmed off. If this is not done hebe's will get lanky, woody and look untidy. Once they have been trimmed, sort out a few strong tip cuttings to grow on. Remove the bottom leaves and cut the top leaves back by half then plant into moist ground or a pot filled with river sand, keep the cuttings moist and in no time at all they will develop roots. Once growing, to raise nice bushy plants, pinch cuttings back at least twice before planting into the garden. Camellias that have grown dense can be thinned out before buds swell, there should be enough open spaces for a bird to fly through to allow enough light in to encourage the best buds for next spring. Lawns. This is such a good year to sow autumn lawns and fill in gaps in lawns, remove flat weeds in lawns and apply a grass grub product if you notice a problem. Grass grub treatment will only work from February until May. Fruit ripening is full on, strawberries, autumn raspberries, apples, apples and more apples weighing down branches along with pears and late peaches such abundance. Vegetables Gardens will be producing in abundance, I have so much ready to use, parsnips, beetroot, carrots, potatoes, and a new crop of peas filling out along with a few corn cobs remaining to be picked. Pumpkins can be left ripening until a threat of the first frost. Tomatoes are ripening well now after a slow start and cucumbers just keep coming. Keep planting in rotation, leaf veg where root veg has been, warm soil will keep germinating seeds. Cheers Linda

Gardening in Waitaki 9th March 2022

Autumn colours are beginning to show now so we will soon be enjoying full autumn splendor. So far this month we have had changeable weather which is not the usual for autumn, our settled, ripening season but I guess moisture is always welcome here in Waitaki. I got a bit desperate for potting mix while re potting so dug into my compost heaps and was pleased to find everything decomposing really well, due I am sure to the heat we have been experiencing so was able to add, sifted to what remained of the bought potting mix making it go further. Giving potted plants more room for roots and some sun protection at this time of the year enables them to thrive longer without constant watering. Keep deadheading roses in the hope of more blooms to make a last vibrant show before they will be left to harden off for winter. Rust is always a problem on roses in Autumn, try to eradicate affected leaves from the bushes as well as those on the ground and burn them to reduce this problem for next year. Don't feed roses now, soft growth needs to make a start at hardening off. Here on the coast we can still enjoy colour during winter if bedding plants are prepared now. I have been potting up seedlings grown from last year's seed and some young bedding bought in punnets. The idea is to utilize the warmth from now on to encourage individually potted plants to bush, bud and harden for planting out before frosts get heavy. Bedding plants that respond well to this method are pansy, viola, polyanthus, wall flower, stock, calendula and primula malacoides. It is so worth taking the time to pot individual young seedlings on to grow and become acclimated to early winter conditions rather than buying plants that have been forced into flower at the time. March is definitely a great planting month with the soil warm and the nights and mornings cooler, newly planted trees and shrubs settle in well. There are a lot of well grown trees, shrubs and plants on offer right now in Garden centers ready and waiting to be planted. Gardner's further inland will need to read the labels to establish frost ratings before buying, if in doubt, wait until spring. Spring bulbs can be planted now. If you have not already done so break up really large clumps of Spring bulbs, clumps tend to double in size without you noticing and in no time a garden bed can become choked, looking attractive only in spring and dull for the rest of the year. I have often been asked the reason for spring bulbs not flowering after the first couple of years from planting, the problem can be overcrowding, lack of adequate light as trees become larger and throw more shade during summer, but the most common problem is bulbs may not have not been planted deep enough. Spring bulbs need to be planted 4 to 6 inches deep, that's 4 to 6 inches on top of the bulb, if not planted deeply eventually when they do come into leaf and experience a dry patch during this time they won't take up enough moisture to come into bud. Layer carnation stems by pinning the center of the stem down under the soil while still attached to the mother plant with the flower end still exposed, roots should form along the buried stem. Once rooted, cut from the mother plant and pot up to grow on before planting out in lime sweetened soil. This layering method can be applied to many herbs, plants and shrubs. Lawns. After those baking hot days and a lot of mowing lawn growth starts slowing down from now on although, catchers will still be filling up for a while yet but don't feel you need to cut lower than usual because growth has slowed, a scalped lawn dries out faster and encourages weeds. Still the best time to sow new lawns while weed growth is slowing down and evening dews are back. The flat weeds you do come across now pop out with the blade of secateurs before they seed and spread. Fruit: The late peaches, apples and quince are next to be picked. I am peeling apples daily to stew and freeze. If you have an over abundance of apples, share them with those who can use them. I might have to make puddings for our Grandchildren to experience some of the old fashioned winter puds from the past. Apple dumplings?? the first thing I made in Intermediate School cooking class and never forgotten. Vegetable Gardens will be growing new crops for the cooler seasons, leaf veg should not bolt so readily now and will not mind the days getting shorter and cooling. Root veg seeds will germinate well while the ground is still warm. My second sowing of peas are up, corn is picked and the pumpkins have outgrown their space and just keep going. Onions can be lifted once leaves have bent over, don't bend or damage leaves before they are ready to bend naturally if you want them to store and keep well. Once dug, lay them out in a warm place to fully ripen then store in a cool place. Cheers Linda

Gardening in Waitaki March 2nd 2022

Autumn begins: Cooler mornings and nights but wonderful warm ripening days, long shadows, low sun in cornflower blue sky's...... Well that is how it usually played out, this year I am not so sure. Spending time hand watering around plant roots if gardens are dry is a nice way to move slowly about the garden rather than the rip and bust to get things done as we do during the busy gardening seasons. Autumn crocus is bursting into flower, chrysanthemums are budding and I notice some spring bulbs are pushing through which means it is bulb planting time, iris, crocus, hyacinth and daffodils along with any daffodil bulbs you need to shift. Bulbs require deep planting in a sunny well drained spot, tulips and lilies can be planted in May / June. Sow Seeds As I mention often March is the month to collect and sow seeds, hardy annuals can be sown directly where they will flower with a little fertiliser forked into the soil before sowing. A majority of the seeds I collect are stored for a spring sowing as protecting germinated seedlings through the winter can be tricky. Hardwood cuttings: This is the time to take hardwood cuttings, place cuttings in a water filled container as they are taken. Prepare cuttings by removing bottom leaves and cutting top leaves back by half. Push cuttings into river sand, keep moist and hopefully over a few weeks they will develop roots in the warm sand. Then rooted cuttings can be potted on into potting mix fill pots to sit over winter making more roots. Once pots are filled with roots cuttings can then be potted on into bigger pots. At this stage pinching tip growth back on the cuttings will encourage nice bushy plants. Planting: With days shortening and nights cooling, warm ground begins to retain moisture again making Autumn one of the best times for planting trees and shrubs to settle in before the coldest part of winter. Always plant trees and shrubs to the depth they were in the pot or bag and stake well if tall. Hedges: will have finished pushing out this year's growth so get them trimmed well before frost's arrival to damage new growth, especially the lovely photina red robin, if trimmed now beautiful new, bright red growth will be enjoyed during winter. Ponds: Warm water in ponds may be heating up especially small shallow ponds, warm water has low capacity for holding oxygen, so you may see your fish gasping for air close to the water surface. A minimum depth of two feet is suggested for the bottom of a shallow pond to remain cooler. If your pond has no waterfall or fountain algae is sure to grow as water heats up. A natural way to stop this happening is to add barley straw to the pond, basically as the barley straw decomposes it releases something similar to hydrogen peroxide (H202) which will eventually kill the algae. Fill a string bag with barley straw and weigh down with a rock, if there is a waterfall or fountain place the straw where water will flow through. Top up pond water gradually so the temperature does not change dramatically for fish. Lawns. Grass grub damage may be showing up now in lawns with black birds letting you know just where they are, If it is a large area leave the black birds to deal with them then rake out all damaged patches and re-sow. Product can be used on lawn grubs will have moved on to until May, after that it is too late because they are eating then and sleep the winter away before they reappear as the brown night beetle. Vegetables: All seeds sown now will germinate but watch the heat, I cover my seed boxes with shade cloth to keep them from the harsh sun. If planting out seedling plants I would cover them as well with shade cloth to help keep moisture in and white butterflies and birds off. There is time from now to sow a green crop in vacant areas of gardens, blue lupin, mustard or alfalfa will add natural nitrogen to soil. Dig in before it develops firm stalks, or just cover with compost when bedding gardens down for winter. Cheers Linda