Gardening in Waitaki August 20th 2025

As August nears drawing to a close, winter loosens its grip—though recent frosts remind us to stay cautious. Seedlings are quivering in the cold but, with frost cloth protection, are hanging on and soon ready to pot on. Growth has been slow, but weeds such as chickweed and bidibid are thriving—pull them now before they set seed. Elsewhere, violets are filling gardens with fragrance. Camellias, rhododendrons, and shallow-rooted shrubs may show yellowing from nitrogen deficiency after winter—correct with slow-release fertiliser and compost. Keep frost cloth handy for tender plants, mulch after spring rains to lock in moisture, and feed generously. Plants are pouring energy into new growth. The work you put in now with feeding, mulching, and tidying will carry your garden strongly into the season ahead. Magnolias take centre stage, their sculptural bare branches covered in stunning blooms. They thrive in acid soils alongside azaleas, rhododendrons, and camellias. Garden centres are full of choices: compact Magnolia Billowing Cloud (3m × 2.5m) for small gardens, or the taller Charles Raffill (7m × 5m) for larger spaces. Lavenders can be cut back as new growth appears. Old, woody bushes can be trimmed hard to encourage fresh shoots—if they don’t respond, replace them. New plants just need a light haircut, compost, and lime. Climbers are in bud now, so trim carefully. Delay pruning jasmines until frosts are over. Roses are moving fast—feed now to set them up strongly and reduce the need for spraying later. Many other perennials and shrubs benefit from feeding too, but avoid heavy fertiliser on South African and Australian natives. Hostas can still be divided before leaves emerge, while dahlias can be planted in sunny, free-draining spots. Ornamental grasses should be cut back now, and shrubs tidied, though take care with climbers and spring-flowering plants already in bud. Lawns are greening up and need attention after winter. Moss thrives in shaded, compacted, or acidic soils—apply sulphate of iron, rake out once blackened, then aerate and feed. A good spring start will help lawns withstand the predicted dry summer. Vegetable beds are waking up too. Plant seedlings later in the day when sun is softer, but water in the morning so soil warms before night. Sow green crops (mustard, lupine, barley, wheat) in unused areas, and dig them in while still lush and soft. Early seed potatoes can be planted now—protect against late frosts. Continue sowing seeds under cover, using soil, compost, and seed-raising mix. Cover trays with glass or plastic, allowing airflow, and feed seedlings weekly with diluted worm tea. Fruit trees and shrubs need a boost—apply potash-rich fertiliser to encourage strong crops. Plant deciduous trees and berry canes by early September. Thin raspberries by removing old and weak canes. Citrus, especially lemons, will appreciate a feed of citrus fertiliser and a good soak. Keep trunks free of grass and weeds, mulch well, and time spraying for dull days when bees aren’t active.

Cheers, Linda

Gardening in Waitaki August 13th 2015

Early spring is peeping out from winter, despite the harsh frosts. Snowdrops are always the first to push through the frost, followed by winter roses, early camellias, daffodils, and now plum blossom. If we don’t get a good dollop of rain soon, shallow-rooted shrubs and trees—such as rhododendrons, camellias, azaleas, and maples—will need watering to support their new growth. On mild days, it’s tempting to get planting and sowing. Remember that seeds need warmth to germinate, so protect them until the soil reaches a suitable temperature. Outdoors, sowing is best left until frosts are ending and bees are active. Plants budding up for flowers can be given a gentle liquid feed now to keep root growth strong. Diluted worm or comfrey tea is ideal for soft new growth, but any liquid food at a weak dilution will help. Roses benefit from liquid manure diluted to the colour of weak tea, applied around the roots. Finish all rose pruning by month’s end. Weeds & Invasive Plants: Weeds are on the move. With the ground still soft, hand-pulling or hoeing is easy—remove them before they seed. Now is the time to deal with invasives such as ivy, aluminium plant (Lamium), couch grass, convolvulus, and bindweed. Hydrangeas: New green growth at the base means pruning time. Cut all woody stems that flowered last summer back to the second bud from the bottom. Leave all other stems, as they will carry the new flowers. Pink hydrangeas prefer alkaline soils (pH > 8.5), while blue ones need acidic soil. To maintain strong blue blooms, grow in a large pot with acid potting mix if your garden soil produces pink flowers. Planting & Pruning: Keep planting roses, peony roses, and gladioli until September. Plant lilies immediately; they must not dry out as they make roots year-round. Cut back leggy lavatera and buddleia, they will bounce back quickly. Comfrey – A Garden Powerhouse: Comfrey’s deep roots draw nutrients from well below the soil’s surface, storing them in the leaves. These nutrients, especially potassium, promote flowering and fruiting. To make comfrey tea, harvest leaves (removing flowers and tough stems), chop them, and pack them tightly into a lidded, watertight container. Weigh them down with a brick or stone, then check every few weeks. The breakdown process produces a strong-smelling brown liquid—collect and store it in bottles in a cool, dark place. Refill the bucket with fresh leaves. Plant comfrey where it can spread freely, away from main garden beds, as it can become invasive. Lawns & Moss Control: Moss killers are a short-term fix—address the cause for lasting results. Common issues include: Waterlogging , Poor feeding (light green grass), Acidic soil (test and lime if needed). Shade from trees or shrubs, mowing too close. Sandy soil (improve with compost/humus) , Compaction from heavy use (aerate in autumn), DIY soil test. Pouring white vinegar over soil (fizz = alkaline). If no fizz, mix soil with water, then add baking soda (fizz = acidic). Small patches can be treated with sulphate of iron—moss will blacken, then rake out and re-seed. Apply your first spring lawn feed before rain is due. Vegetables: Harvest winter crops while they’re still at their best. Fold cauliflower leaves over and tie to protect from frost and keep florets tight. Prepare asparagus beds deeply with compost and good drainage; existing beds should be weeded carefully to avoid damaging crowns. Plant sprouted potatoes now for an early crop—try laying them on pine needles or comfrey leaves for extra nutrients as they decompose. Inland gardens may still be frozen, but you can prepare beds by digging in compost or humus. Fruit: Soak and mulch fruit trees and berry bushes—they have a lot of growing ahead. Cheers, Linda.

Asparagus popping through.

Gardening in Waitaki August 1st 2025

Going by my past notes, August often brings us one last true burst of winter before we can fully leap into spring. While we’re all eager for sunshine and blossoms, it’s worth remembering that plants and soil need a consistent cold spell to reset and perform at their best once growth kicks in. The downside to a late cold snap is the damage it can do to early new growth and tender fruit blossoms. To set fruit well, we need milder, sun-filled days so pollinators can do their job during that brief window when flowers bloom. Time to Dress the Garden: Cold or not, August is the time to get creative in the ornamental garden planning, planting out, shifting things around, and feeding. Liquid feed annuals and perennials that have been nursed through winter. Their roots are beginning to absorb nutrients, helping buds to plump and strengthen. Hydrangeas will be showing fat green shoots now. Prune flowering stems back to the second bud from the base, and leave all non-flowering growth as that’s where the new blooms will form. You can take hydrangea cuttings now—choose thick, woody stems about 12” long, cut on a slant. Dip in rooting hormone (optional), insert into damp river sand around the edge of a well-drained pot (not in the centre), water well and place in a sheltered spot. Roses , especially robust ones like Flower Carpet, can still be given their winter trim. If well established, they can be tidied with a hedge trimmer. Staking Trees: A Timely Reminder’ve noticed newly planted grafted trees in gardens with no stakes. While the soil is firm now and winter winds are few, come spring, we often face sudden gales. Without stakes, these tall trees can rock in the wind, disturbing the roots before they’ve anchored properly. Unstaked trees grow more slowly—or not at all. Now is the time to ensure any recent tree plantings are properly supported. Seed Sowing Underway: It’s an exciting time; seed sowing has begun in earnest. Under glass and in trays off the cold ground, I’m sowing: Cottage annuals like cosmos, cornflowers, love-in-the-mist, snapdragons, alyssum and more. Tender annuals will have to wait unless you have a heated greenhouse. If you’re already seeing new growth on overwintered plants, make sure to protect them from sudden frosts. Vegetable Garden: Now’s the time to sow seeds for vegetables that will be ready to prick out into punnets and plant once the soil warms. Sunny days and frosts help break down heavy soils and get beds in shape. Watch for birds! They’re hungry and nesting, and love tender new leaf growth—cover veg beds with netting or frost cloth to protect crops. Fruit Trees and Grape Vines: Fruit trees are now widely available in garden centres. All are grafted onto rootstock, which affects their eventual size: M26 – Ideal for espaliers and cordons M27 – The smallest rootstock, great for step-overs or growing in pots. Ask for help if you're unsure about labels or planting positions. Grapevine pruning should be completed soon, before the sap rises. Here's how to shape fruiting vines: Remove all new growth except the main fruiting leader. On the leader, prune side shoots back to two buds. Leave about a hand span between each fruiting shoot to allow fruit to size properly. If a shoot has double buds, remove the weaker one to concentrate energy into the stronger shoot. Peach trees: keep an eye on budburst, especially in warmer gardens. When it happens, apply a copper spray immediately to help prevent leaf curl. Scruff Update: Since moving yet again, Scruff has gone from ruling a large garden to ruling a smaller garden and now an even smaller garden, and to let all around know that he is still THE BOSS of all inside his fence and beyond! He’s taken it upon himself to still guard the entire neighbourhood. No cat, bird, dog or human is unnoticed under his watchful eye. In our large property, I could bellow at him to settle down without bothering a soul, but here, with neighbours all around, it’s me who’s been quietened. Scruff, of course, is happily maintaining his security post. Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in Waitaki July 22nd 2025

Sasanqua camellia.

We’re edging ever closer to spring. With another winter month nearly behind us, the garden is starting to stir—both above and below the ground—even as heavy frosts continue to blanket the mornings. I remember winters when the ground stayed frozen well into mid-season and my pond was sealed under thick ice. But in recent years, we’ve seen a shift: sharp frosts followed by unseasonably warm days. At this time around my past, expansive, ever-evolving garden, pruning, composting, and pea-strawing would have been in full swing.  While it may look like growth has slowed, coastal conditions and warmer soils mean there’s still plenty of nutrient uptake happening underground. Birds will be cold and hungry now, with very little for them to forage from nature, and they will soon be nest-building. I have been offering wild bird seed onto a lawn, and they did not take long to find it, and expect it each morning.  Late Winter Care & Feeding Now is a great time to give bulbs, hellebores (winter roses), polyanthus, violas, witch hazel, camellias, and rhododendrons a top dressing of compost. Even a sprinkle of blood and bone can be beneficial—especially if we get a shower of rain to help wash it in. Garden retailers are offering plenty of seasonal colour with sasanqua camellias in full flower, along with various hellebores and vibrant indoor cyclamen to brighten up homes and porches. Keep in mind that these flowering plants are often grown under protective conditions to get them looking their best, so let them harden gradually before planting them out in the garden. Roses: With the ground retaining dampness, mulch can go on to keep it there. Mulch also protects rose roots and allows the plant to focus on root development as it gears up for the growing season. Un-sprayed pea or barley straw, along with well-aged compost, make excellent mulch materials. As early spring approaches, a generous application of rose fertiliser will support strong, healthy growth. Look for fertilisers high in potassium to encourage large, vibrant blooms. For established roses, apply 200 g (about 1 cup) per square metre and water it in well. Fertilising just before the end of winter gives a valuable boost, especially as swelling buds begin to draw nutrients. Another application in mid-December will promote a lovely autumn flush. Have your fertiliser ready to go next month! Prunng should be done and dusted before bud burst. Fruit & Ornamental Trees There’s no better time than now to plant both ornamental and fruiting trees. Most come with detailed labels explaining exactly what you’re buying and how best to plant and care for them. Be sure to stake all tall grafted trees—any root movement caused by wind can really hinder their early growth. And remember: all fruit trees thrive best in open, sunny locations. Vegetable Garden If you’re dreaming of new potatoes for Christmas dinner, now’s the time to act! Seed potatoes are available in stores, and it’s important to know whether you’re choosing an early or late variety. Potatoes are not a one-type-fits-all vegetable anymore!Lay seed potatoes out in trays to begin “chitting,” allowing them to sprout in a cool, well-lit, dry area so they form sturdy buds for early planting.Continue sowing vegetable seeds in trays for transplanting later. If your garden gets good winter sun, you can start planting cauliflower and cabbage seedlings (be sure to protect them from birds), and even sow early peas. Asparagus crowns are also in stock now and should be planted in well-composted, fertilised beds (avoid using animal manure). Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in Waitaki July 9th 2025

Bleak winter mornings and damp, muddy conditions are keeping many gardeners indoors for now. However, this is an ideal time to plan for spring colour and begin sowing seeds under cover, where they can germinate in a sheltered, spot with good overhead light. Try antirrhinum (snapdragon), carnation, calendula (common marigold), sweet peas, verbena, cosmos, and viola. These should germinate well and be ready for pricking out into punnets before spring arrives.   New season’s roses are now available, though they’re not as popular as they once were. Many new gardeners see them as high-maintenance, and the thorns can be off-putting. But to me, a summer garden simply isn’t complete without at least one or two roses for their beauty and fragrance. Roses don’t need to be planted in traditional rose beds. If you're unsure about including them in your garden, seek out a rose enthusiast for advice on the best varieties—ones that flower continuously, have a lovely scent, fewer thorns, and are known to thrive with minimal fuss.There are roses to suit all sorts of spaces: to add a splash of colour among green shrubs, to climb a wall or fence, or to spill gracefully over a low wall—like the Flower Carpet varieties, which now come in a range of soft shades and can be trimmed with a hedge trimmer.Roses do need full sun, regular watering through summer, and a generous layer of compost in early spring and again after summer deadheading. July is the time for their winter prune—just these steps in the cycle of care will reward you with years of joy.Planting new roses: Plant below the graft section, at the bud union to the root stock, fill the planting hole with water and let it seep away, plant and firm in. Dahlias will need cutting back and mulching for protection if left in the ground. Clumps can be dug now and reduced or split up, dahlias tubers will hold in a dry place until planting out when frosts are over.  Peonies are divided in autumn and are now on offer to be planted in well-draining soil. if you think there is a chance they would sit in wet, soggy soil over winter, they may rot. Planting can continue until September.If young trees or shrubs need transplanting, now is a good time to do it, whilst they are at their most dormant stage. Fruit: Look closely at the shape of your fruit trees and plan how pruning can improve them if needed. Pip fruit should be pruned during winter. Raspberries: Pruning is best done in winter. Remove all old canes from last year's harvest; these will be brittle and need to be cut to the ground, then look for canes with healthy, thick bark and green leaves. Cut these canes back to a mitre height and secure by tying against a fence or framework. \Vegetables: On the coast, start raising vegetable seeds in glasshouses or under glass or plastic with ventilation spaces to circulate air and stop seeds from going mouldy. Plant veg seedlings now on offer, along with garlic cloves. In colder areas, sit back and let frosts work on the soil. Start sprouting seed potatoes. Early varieties like Jersey benne, Cliffs kidney, Rocket, Ilam hardy, and Maris Anchor should be sprouting now for early planting. Cheers, Linda

Gardening in Waitaki July 1st 2025

We’re well into winter now, those frosty mornings certainly remind us! But in between the chill, there are small promises of spring. I’ve already noticed jonquils peeking out and beginning to bloom on those rare mild days. Winter in the garden is quieter, but it’s also the perfect time for preparation. From pruning roses to planning your veg patch, there’s plenty to do if you know where to start. Convolvulus and Cutbacks: In my past large garden, this time of year meant cutting back deciduous shrubs and tackling stubborn weeds, especially convolvulus. If you've dealt with it, you’ll know how deeply it weaves itself through everything. I once removed a whole wheelbarrow of those wiry white roots from a tiny patch! There’s real satisfaction in pulling a convolvulus root out in one go. I don’t use chemical sprays, so digging and hand-pulling were the only way. Winter’s bare garden beds make this much easier. Pruning Basics: When and Why: Before you reach for your secateurs, consider how the plant grows. Does it flower on new wood or old wood? That little detail can make all the difference. Prune at the wrong time, and you might miss a season of flowers. But don’t be afraid to try; a "mistake" is a chance to learn, and plants forgive us. Rose Pruning by Type: Late winter is prime time for rose pruning, as the wood has hardened. Timing varies depending on your climate, so aim to finish before buds begin to swell. Here’s a quick guide: Bush Roses: Open up the center by removing inward-facing stems. Cut back the height by two-thirds, always to an outward-facing bud. Remove old, damaged wood and use a wire brush on woody centers to stimulate new shoots. Floribundas: These roses bloom in clusters. Remove some older stems at the base and reduce younger ones by two-thirds to encourage fresh growth. Hybrid Teas: Known for their single, perfect blooms, they can be pruned quite hard, again, to an outward-facing bud. Standard Roses: Treat them like bush roses. Climbing Roses: Train main canes horizontally to encourage flowers along their length. Replace older, unproductive canes with new ones as needed. Pillar Roses: Great for arches and pergolas. I use hedge trimmers for a rough cut, then tidy up with secateurs. Fairy & Flower Carpet roses: A quick hedge trim works well, but thin out the center with secateurs for better airflow and health. Hydrangeas & Lavender: Leave them be for now. The old growth protects new shoots from frost. Planting Bare-Rooted Trees: Bare-rooted deciduous trees are arriving in garden centers now. Get them in the ground while it’s soft and moist, but avoid frozen or waterlogged soil. Hold off planting Evergreens. They won't start growing until spring anyway. Buy now, but keep them in their pots outdoors in a sheltered spot to acclimatize. Planting near a house? Always read the label. I’ve seen many small shrubs grow into big problems when planted too close to walls or fences. Vegetables. Heavy winter rain can leave the soil soggy, and most veggies won’t grow well in cold, wet ground. Don’t worry, it’s normal. Now’s the time to prep: I like to spread aged pig manure across my raised beds. Worms will get to work and have the soil ready by spring. Early seed potatoes can be “chitted” indoors. You can leave them in the dark for long pale sprouts, or better yet, keep them in a bright, frost-free spot. They’ll grow short, knobbly, greenish-purple shoots, perfect for planting later. Fruit Tree Planting & Pruning: Now is the time to plant deciduous fruit trees, just avoid frosty hollows for early starters like plums, pears, and apricots. Peaches & Nectarines: Prune in early to late spring to maintain an open center. Spring cuts heal better as growth begins. Cherries: Need summer pruning for the first 5 years — always on dry, sunny days to avoid disease. Apples: I've learned not to prune too hard in winter, as it only produces those pesky water sprouts in spring with no blossom. Water sprouts are thin shoots that arise from the trunk or branches of an apple tree and drain vital energy from the tree without providing any benefit in return. Now, I prune those vigorously growing trees in summer instead, when the tree has fully leafed out. This encourages balance without encouraging wild new shoots. Espaliers (cordons): Prune weak growth in winter to promote strong spring shoots. Save larger cuts for summer. Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in Waitaki June 24th 2025

Gosh, the weeks are racing by — with the days so short, it’s Friday before I know it! The leaf cleanup will feel endless for some right now. This is the best time of year to make big changes in the garden. If something needs to be shifted or removed, don’t wait. I often find myself clearing a space, then walking around to find something well-established that would be perfect to move into the gap. In my past large garden, I would have made a start on rose pruning — it always took me a few weeks to get through them, and as I pruned, I also cleaned up around them. Once finished, I would spray the lot with a mix of copper and winter oil to seal the cuts and protect against fungal issues. If you’re new to rose pruning, start with a sharp pair of secateurs. Remove anything growing into the middle of the bush; an open centre is required to let in light and air. Make your cuts on an angle just above an outward-facing bud. Cut back any branches crossing over one another, again to an outward-facing bud, and remove old, woody or spindly growth completely. Be sure the crown of the rose is kept clear of compost or soil, and give this area a thorough spray as well. New roses also need pruning, even if they were trimmed before delivery. If you’re planting a new rose where one has previously grown, swap the soil with fresh soil from another part of the garden. Make a planting hole that is a few centimetres larger than the full spread of the roots. This is usually about 60cm (2ft) in diameter and at least 30cm (1ft) deep. Some gardeners have used a cardboard box with the bottom removed to line the hole; by the time the cardboard rots away, the plant has established. Boost plant growth by applying a fertiliser high in nitrogen, such as sulphate of ammonia. Improve soil structure by incorporating some well-rotted manure or organic matter into the backfill soil, then firm this around the roots and water well. Elsewhere in the garden, it’s time to deal with moss and lichen on paths and walkways before they get dangerously slippery. You can use a moss-kill product, but a watering can of diluted household bleach or a sprinkling of an inexpensive laundry powder will also do the job. Once moss has blackened, it can be raked off. Seed sowing Flower seeds for spring and summer: I’ve planted delphiniums, snapdragons, poppies, lupins, and cosmos. Even without a greenhouse, they’ll germinate slowly in a sunny, sheltered spot with a cover of plastic or glass ( with breath spaces) and frost cloth; this will reward you with strong plants come spring. I find winter-started seedlings outperform those sown in spring. Ponds: This is also a good time to give fish ponds some attention. Move your fish to a bucket of pond water, then empty and clean the pond. Water lilies in containers can be repotted now too — they’re hungry plants that love rich soil but need careful setup to prevent fertiliser leaching into the water. Use a base of clean gravel and clay or heavy cardboard and clean gravel, then add manure, slow-release fertiliser, and soil before replanting. Finish with more soil and a thick topping of gravel. Trim back roots if needed to fit the plant back in. Refill the pond, but wait a couple of weeks before returning the fish. Lawns:Moss in lawns is widespread after rain; sulphate of ammonia dissolved in water will deal with the moss. Once the moss blackens, rake it out. Vegie garden update: Along the coast where winters stay mild, things are still growing steadily. Keep rotating your crops — root veg where leafy crops were, and vice versa. Plant peas and buttercrunch lettuce if you have raised beds that get sun all day. Buttercrunch thrives in the cooler months and has such a sweet, tender flavour. The quiet powerhouses of the veg garden are the perennial veg. Now’s the time to mulch generously, feed the soil with compost, leaf mould or forest floor wood trimmings to support asparagus, rhubarb, globe artichokes, strawberries and Welsh onions. Even in the stillness of winter, the garden is deepening, getting ready to surge into life again. Cheers, Linda.