Gardening in Waitaki November 4th 2025

More settled spring days now, warm sunshine, and bursts of colour as rhododendrons, azaleas, peonies and early roses take centre stage.  My roses are heavy with buds, still free from greenfly and black spot, though no doubt both will appear soon. I’ve given them a light spray of winter oil and fish emulsion to deter pests, always best done on a dull day so tender new leaves don’t burn. Avoid spraying or watering foliage at dusk; leaves should be dry going into warm nights to prevent mildew. Trim spent flowers from perennials and daisy bushes regularly to keep plants bushy and flowering continuously. Allowing blooms to go to seed will only make the plants woody and sparse. English Lavender is budding;if spittlebugs appear, don’t spray; instead, hose them off with a strong jet of water.  Clematis hybrids will be looking lovely in garden centres. They need to be planted deeply in rich, limey soil and stems trained while still pliable. They are susceptible to wilting, so if this happens, cut it right down; most recover beautifully the following season. To fill gaps in the flower garden, plant cottage-style annuals such as cosmos, love-in-a-mist, clary sage, lavatera, and blue bedder salvia. Plant them thickly so they support each other and help shade out weeds. Regular deadheading will keep them blooming well into summer. Hellebore seedlings that have popped up around the garden can be lifted and potted to grow on. Peony roses are budding, add supports early and limit flowering on new plants to help establish strong roots for future blooming.Hedges are putting on their spring growth. If they’ve reached the height you want trim when stems have firmed. Choose an overcast day, especially for box hedges, to avoid leaf scorch. If your hedge still needs to fill out, wait for new growth to harden before trimming lightly. All those soft trimmings make great mulch. Lawns are growing fast after recent rain — keep mower blades high to shade the roots or mow without a catcher now and then letting clippings nourish the lawn or spread clippings thinly around the garden as mulch, but avoid thick piles that can smother soil. Bare patches strike quickly now, so rake, reseed, and lightly cover with fine soil for lush results. Vegetables thrive in warm, moist soil, so now is the time to sow beans, peas, pumpkins, courgettes and cucumbers. Stagger sowings for continuous harvests. How about making a runner bean tepe for the wee ones with bamboo lengths and fine wire.If whiteflies appear in the greenhouse, hang some sticky fly paper strips down near plants and attract helpful predators by planting calendula, fennel, and parsley nearby. Fruit: Grapevines that were slightly frosted with that cold snap should now be recovering. Avoid overfeeding grapes;  too much nitrogen only encourages leaves, not fruit. A sprinkle of potash helps flowering and fruiting. Codling moth is on the wing again, making a beeline for your apple and pear trees. Egg-laying begins in November: females lay eggs on or near developing apples and pears, often on leaves close to the fruit or directly on young fruitlets. Try this simple codling moth trap: place a banana peel, one cup of vinegar, and one cup of sugar in a milk bottle. Cut the plastic on the side to fashion a cover above an entrance opening to let moths in and keep rain out, fill with water and hang in trees.  If you have empty garden beds, sow a green crop like mustard or blue lupin to boost humus and protect the soil from drying out. Enjoy the growth, colour, and warm energy of this month — summer is just around the corner. Cheers,Linda

Gardening in Waitaki Nov 1st 2025

And now it is almost November, this spring is proving to be a challenge weather-wise, with much-needed rain arriving alongside a bitterly cold spell. Those relentless winds were hard on flowering cherries; sadly, they couldn’t hold their blossom for long, but things will move now because November really is when the garden comes alive. Roses and peonies are nearly ready for their grand display, stepping in to take over from the camellias, rhododendrons, viburnums, lilacs, and azaleas. Forget-me-nots are also finishing their show; instead of pulling them out, cut them back hard, and they’ll quickly green up to form neat summer clumps, flowering again next spring. Irises are pushing through thick buds now. Remove any mulch from around the rhizomes so they can bask in the sun; I always admire drifts of iris planted en masse, though most town gardens don’t have space for letting irises take over ground that will only hold them. Dahlias: I have had to protect my new dahlia growth from late frost, which blackened leaves. Thankfully, the tubas sent up new leaves, so the protection will go on until frosts are no more. With tulips and other spring bulbs dying back, resist the urge to tidy too soon; let the green tops wither naturally to feed the bulbs for next year. Push or twist them out of sight under shrubs until they lose vigour. If you like to remove and store them, this can be done now, but leave green tops on to die back. Now is the time to plan your summer colour. Try cosmos, marigolds, petunias, bedding dahlias and blue salvias to fill gaps where bulbs have finished. Cat-mint is starting to show its first flush of colour; it’s a pretty edging plant that can be cut back after flowering to bloom again later. If dividing, pull off rooted sections from the main clump, pot them up, and grow them on for new garden edging elsewhere. Keep trimming spent blooms from perennials and daisy bushes to encourage bushy growth and continuous flowering; allowing them to seed will only make them woody. Chrysanthemums and perennial asters can be shortened back now to prevent them from growing too tall and flopping over later; they’ll still flower at summer’s end. Chrysanthemum tips can be placed in river sand to root for new plants. Hedges: Hold off trimming soft new growth until it has firmed later in the month, especially on box hedges, as cutting too early only encourages more tender regrowth. Viburnum and lonicera hedges, however, can be shaped now, and all soft trimmings make excellent additions to the compost or garden mulch. Lawns: Grass, grass, grass, so much mowing! If you haven’t sprayed for weeds, you can spread your clippings lightly around the garden as humus, just not in thick piles. Spread evenly so they break down quickly. With soil now warm, re-sown patches from moss or grass grub damage will establish quickly if kept moist and protected from birds; shade cloth works well until the seed germinates. Vegetable: Growth will take off now after the rain. Potatoes should be ready for mounding, root crops for thinning, and leafy vegetables will run to seed quickly from now on. Young broad bean plants may have been deformed by wind, but mine, already in flower, are showing no sign of rust or aphids. The soil is warm enough now for runner and French beans, corn, tomatoes, cucumbers, and all members of the pumpkin family. If you’re keen to expand your food garden, now is the perfect time to make a no-dig bed. Choose a sunny spot on bare soil and layer materials: dampened newspaper, manure, compost, leaf mulch, straw, and soil. Water between each layer, finishing with straw on top to suppress weeds and deter slugs. Within six weeks, you’ll be harvesting fresh produce, and the soil beneath will teem with worms and life. Fruit trees and berry bushes will start thriving now, as long as the bees were able to stand up to the winds for their pollinating job. Mulch generously around the drip line of all fruiting plants to conserve moisture as fruit forms. A sprinkle of potash around the base helps promote flowering and fruiting. Cheers, Linda

Gardening in Waitaki September 21st 2025

Spring garden magic is being blown into full swing here in Waitaki with the consistent wind we are experiencing, making gardening almost impossible, but Spring is the time to get planting and there’s so much on offer now: tubers, bulbs, bedding plants, shrubs, and trees all waiting to be chosen and settled in when the winds die down. When buying punnets of young plants, remember to harden them before planting. Leave them outside for a few nights in a sheltered spot so they get used to the changeable spring weather and cool nights. Put stakes in now for delphiniums, peonies, asters, and tall phlox before they shoot too high. Weeds are racing ahead now, so get the hoe moving! Pull them before they seed—blink and they’ll be ankle-high. Planting annuals into exposed soil helps crowd out weeds before they take hold. Sweetpeas: I absolutely love sweet peas, and the early plantings that sat over winter will already be rewarding with buds. I plant more amongst those already in bud to scramble up behind lower plantings. Sweetpeas are gross feeders, so when planting a trench filled with well-rotted animal manure beneath the soil will keep them growing longer. Lavenders are making new growth. They appreciate a dusting of lime to sweeten the soil. If they’re looking scruffy, trim them now; they’ll soon freshen up and bud again. Replace any woody, yellowing plants as lavenders don’t last forever. Fuchsias: Coastal gardeners can cut back fuchsias now that they’re pushing out new leaves. They flower on new growth, so prune to the height where you’d like them to bloom. They prefer afternoon shade, moist soil, and regular feeding through the season. Roses: Keep an eye on rose tips for greenfly during mild days—tiny hatchlings cluster at the tips of new growth. A quick pinch between finger and thumb saves the need for spraying. Roses are hungry now, so feed them well—old stable manure or the pig-and-sawdust mix from the Recycling Centre spread around (not against) the base will keep them healthy and blooming. If you have a bougainvillea, trim away any frost-damaged wood now that new shoots are appearing. To encourage flowering, water heavily once at the start of next month to mimic its natural rainy season, then hold back the water as stress encourages blooms over leaf growth. Blossom and Trees: Spring is the perfect time to choose the blossom tree you’d like for your garden. Take a photo of the tree to the garden centre for identification and advice. Remember, blossoms are fleeting, so consider the shade the tree will cast and its mature height and spread. Some Prunus varieties can grow very large with spreading roots, so think carefully about placement—especially near driveways or paved areas, where falling petals and leaves can be slippery. A tall-grafted tree (around 1.8m before branching) gives good clearance for paths and drives, while lower grafts suit garden borders. There truly is a tree for every spot; it’s just a matter of matching size and shape to your space. Trees bought now will not appreciate being planted during strong winds, so hold off planting and make sure you have sturdy stakes on hand to put in place when Worms: New gardens often lack worms, but here’s a trick that works beautifully: half-fill a fertiliser bag with fresh cow or horse manure and leave it sitting on soil or grass for several weeks. The manure moisture seeps into the ground, attracting worms. When you lift the bag, you’ll find a thriving population beneath! Tiger worms from worm farms don’t survive long in open gardens because they stay near the surface and become bird food, so it’s best to encourage your local garden worms naturally. Lawns: With lawns growing again, any winter damage will now be showing. Rake out damaged patches, rough up the soil, and spread a layer of clean, sifted topsoil before sowing new seed. If birds are an issue, cover each patch with shade cloth until the seed germinates. Vegetables: Keep planting your vegetables now for summer and Christmas harvests. Here on the coast, plant lettuce every two weeks for a steady supply, and pop seed potatoes into any spare ground. Corn and pumpkin need a long growing season. Start them in punnets and keep them sheltered until warmer, non-windy days arrive. In my new raised bed, the clay soil has been cloddy, but layering compost on top now will invite worms to do the hard work over spring and summer. During winter, I grew a green crop, which helped, and each season, the soil will only get better. Fruit: Strawberries are moving towards flowering; give them a mulch of compost now to grow into. Bees are busy pollinating the flowers, so put the sprays away, let nature do the work and look forward to bumper crops. If your blackcurrants haven’t been pruned yet, do it right away; fruit forms on young wood, so remove older canes and keep six to ten strong new shoots. For red and white currants, which fruit on older wood, take out diseased or very old branches, then shorten new growth to two buds in early summer to keep them compact. Cheers, Linda

Gardening in Waitaki October 14th 2025

Such beauty throughout North Otago — blossom, new growth, and colour everywhere despite dry winds and late chills, then that lovely rain. A little time spent now feeding, weeding, and planning new plantings will pay off in the months ahead. Weeds and Early Maintenance: Weeds are racing away now, so tackle them while they’re young. Remove biddy-bid, chickweed, convolvulus, couch grass, dandelion and other annuals before they run to seed, or you’ll be chasing them all summer. It’s a good time to use organic weed sprays — but only on still days, as roses and other sensitive plants can be damaged even by a drift of spray. Flowering Plants and Shrubs: Keep deadheading and feeding pansies and polyanthus, they’ll keep flowering while there’s still a chill in the air. Once they’ve finished, cut them back and move to a cool, shady spot until next year’s late Autumn planting. Look critically at your shrubs; many will have quietly outgrown their spaces. Removing just one or two tall or tired shrubs can transform a garden, opening new planting areas. In one of my past borders, removing two old shrubs allowed room for a new maple and a drift of bluebells, and what a difference it made. Roses: Late frosts can catch the soft new rose growth, but don’t panic, leaves recover quickly, and new buds will follow within six weeks. As the weather warms, avoid evening watering on foliage to reduce mildew. Feed regularly; hungry roses are the first to get diseased. A slow-release fertiliser and a mulch of manure-enriched compost now will boost summer-flowering roses and shrubs alike. Seedlings and Companion Planting: Seeds sown will be popping up fast — sunflowers, cosmos, larkspur, nasturtium, marigolds, lupins, godetia, and delphiniums all do well if grown on in pots until they have strong roots before planting out. Small seedlings planted too soon often fall victim to slugs or simply wither. Strong growers like sunflowers and delphiniums can go straight into peat pots and be planted pot-and-all later; roots grow through as the pot breaks down. Slugs and snails are active now; a thick mulch of sharp wood chips can help deter slugs around young plants. This is a great time to consider companion planting: Marigolds and tagetes repel aphids and attract hoverflies, beneficial predators. Nasturtiums lure caterpillars away from brassicas. Garlic, chives, and parsley near roses deter aphids. Dill attracts bees; plant it with corn for better pollination. Basil planted among tomatoes helps repel whitefly and is, of course, delicious alongside tomatoes on a plate. Vegetable Garden: Potatoes should be well up. Keep mounding over them to keep light from the potatoes as they increase in size. Pumpkin, squash, corn, courgette and salad crops can all be sown now. If buying seedlings, harden them off in a sheltered spot before planting out. Carrot fly is active this month: To avoid damage, cover rows; frost cloth works well. First flight: Begins in October and continues through November into early December. Second flight: Often occurs in late January to March (mid-–late summer). Adults lay eggs again, and larvae feed on older roots. Never leave carrot thinnings lying nearby to attract them. A sprinkle of unsprayed grass clippings along the rows can help disguise the carrot scent. Glasshouse and Tomatoes: Tomato season is here! Glasshouses and tunnel houses will soon be full, but if you lack one, tomatoes grow happily in containers on a sunny deck or patio. Choose smaller types such as Red Robin, Russian Red, Totem, or Tumbling Tom for hanging baskets. Use a tomato mix, water regularly, and liquid feed fortnightly. Fruit trees in blossom need consistent moisture and mulch to support their workload ahead. A ring of unsprayed grass clippings to the drip line helps retain moisture and suppress weeds. Lawns: Lawns are lush after spring feeding — let them grow a little before mowing and spot-spray clover or weeds. Butterflies: If you’re keen to attract Monarch butterflies, plant swan plants now, protect from late frosts and keep them covered from early butterflies if not big enough to support the caterpillars. Cheers, Linda

Gardening in Waitaki October 1st 2025

Oamaru public Gardens.

October and Spring is in full windy swing here in Waitaki, with later blossoms now out, the bright pink upright Prunus Kanzan and the soft white-pink spreading Prunus Shimidsu Sakura, always looked great underplanted with a sea of forget-me-nots or deep blue “match heads” in my past large garden. Watch for Prunus trees sending shoots from below the graft, remove these promptly.  Rhododendrons and azaleas are bursting with colour as spring bulbs are finishing. Leave bulb foliage to die back naturally so it can store energy for next year. Large clumps can be lifted and divided to share.Shrubs & Perennials Trim winter-flowering ericas once flowers brown to encourage fresh green summer growth. Pinch back tall chrysanthemums now for sturdier autumn plants. Prune fuchsias because they bloom on new wood. Support lilies as they push up, mulch to keep soil moist but free-draining.                                       Feeding & Mulching:Weeding will be a full-time job this month. Clear annual weeds thoroughly, especially couch grass, which must be removed completely. After weeding, cover the soil with organic compost to suppress regrowth before planting annuals and perennials. Water new plantings in the morning to avoid fungal problems, and mulch to conserve moisture — pea straw works well around trees and shrubs. Feed roses, shrubs, and perennials now. Use a balanced fertiliser watered in, or mix homemade compost with blood & bone and a little potash. Old stable manure spread around (but not dug in) is excellent for roses. Keep fertiliser away from trunks and apply just beyond the dripline where feeding roots are most active.Delay hedge trimming until new growth firms up, including box hedging. Trim on overcast days to avoid sun scorch. Camellias can be shaped once flowering finishes; open the middle for light and airflow enough for a bird to fly through.. Lawns are lush and growing fast now but the strong winds will have dried them, soak, mow regularly and scatter unsprayed clippings lightly as mulch about the garden. Apply fertiliser just before rain, never on dry sunny days. New patches can be resown now — soil is warm enough for germination. Avoid fertilising new grass until well established. Vegetables & Herbs Direct sow veg seeds now, but thinly. Mix seeds with fine soil for even sowing. Protect seedlings from birds with shade cloth. Corn and pumpkins can be planted now with protection to allow for their long ripening season. Tomatoes can be planted closer to Labor weekend, those in tunnel or glasshouses thrive during our cooler nights, ensure good airflow and never leave leaves wet overnight. Cherry tomatoes do well in pots on sunny porches. Herbs will be flourishing:  Harvest often for fresh use or dry for winter. Most enjoy lime and aged stable manure. Mixed herb pots planted now make great Christmas gifts. Cheers Linda.

Tomato plants staked and protected.

Gardening in Waitaki 24th September 2025

October is already here, and Gardens across Waitaki are in full spring bloom. Blossoms, magnolias, rhododendrons, and azaleas are making a stunning show, while lawns and borders are bursting into life. Every week, something new appears, hostas unfurling, lilies pushing through, peonies stretching up, and perennial treasures like lily of the valley and Solomon’s seal. With soil warming and daylight lengthening, growth is leaping ahead. Thankfully, we received much-needed rain last week, so while moisture is in the ground, we need to keep it there by mulching around plants, trees and shrubs with compost. Compost will also support new roots while they develop to carry growth into the new growing season. Roses: If you haven’t already, feed roses, shrubs, and perennials do it now. Use a balanced fertiliser, blood & bone, or a homemade mix with sulphate of potash to encourage flowering and fruiting. Aged stable manure mixed with compost spread around the drip line of roses works wonders to carry them through their long flowering season. Always water powdered fertiliser in well. Roses appreciate being fed to encourage strong growth that resists pests and disease far better than weak, soft growth. Aphids (greenfly) can often be squashed by hand or blasted off with the hose. Birds will help too. If infestations are heavy, try a safe homemade deterrent, such as rhubarb leaf infusion mixed with a little detergent, effective on ornamentals but not for edible crops. Early morning watering is best, allowing plants and soil time to dry before nightfall, which reduces the likelihood of fungal problems developing. For new plantings, liquid feeding helps them settle and make strong feeding roots. Perennials & Ornamentals: Hostas, Take care not to damage emerging shoots. Keep them moist, feed with compost and blood & bone, and protect against slugs by spreading broken egg shells around them. Lilies & Peonies: Stake now before stems grow tall. Never let lilies dry out. Dahlias: Plant tubers now. Divide clumps if they’ve grown too large and replant or share with friends. Lavender – Growing strongly now, often free of spittle bugs early in the season. If they appear, dislodge with a strong jet of water. Camellias. Once flowering finishes, trim and thin branches to let in light and encourage next year’s buds. Sweet peas, plant in compost-rich trenches with climbing supports. Their scented blooms will reward you all summer. Watch grafted flowering cherries — remove any shoots from below the graft, or they will quickly overtake the ornamental top. Lawns:are growing fast now. Established lawns benefit from fertiliser applied just before rain. Avoid feeding newly germinated grass as fertiliser burns young seedlings. October is an excellent time to sow seed thickly to beat spring weeds, keep moist, and you’ll have a strong strike before weeds take hold. Fruit & Berries: Blossoms on apples, pears, cherries, and plums will be drawing in bees and pollinators. Raspberries and gooseberries are flowering too. Strawberries should be planted or already budding; they thrive in raised beds with compost-enriched soil and a layer of pine needles to suppress weeds and keep fruit clean. Currants are leafing up well and should crop strongly with good pollination. Herbs:are thriving in the spring warmth. If starting a new herb garden, choose a sunny spot, dig in lime and old manure, and plant away. Divide clumps as needed and harvest regularly to prevent plants from running to seed. Mixed herb pots make excellent Christmas gifts if planted now. Vegetables: Garden centres are brimming with seedlings — tomatoes, herbs, potatoes, beans, corn, pumpkins, and leafy greens. If you don’t yet have a veggie patch, claim a corner now: dig or rotary hoe, edge it neatly, and keep surrounding weeds down. Peas & beans – Plant now; peas will climb quickly on netting. Corn & pumpkins, Sow this month to ensure a long growing season. Carrots, Sow now for a crop before carrot fly peaks. If carrot fly is a problem, cover rows with insect netting from germination through April, or try Resistafly F1 seeds, which are more resistant. Avoid strong thinning as it releases the scent that attracts flies. Potatoes, Plant seed potatoes in well-prepared beds. Successive sowing, Plant small amounts often for a steady harvest rather than a glut. Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in Waitaki September 17th 2025

Magnolia Starwars

As I write these garden notes, we are still waiting for a good drenching spring Rain to give lawns and gardens a real boost, but blossom and magnolias are lighting up North Otago. Bees are humming again, and spring planting is in full swing. Blossoms & Trees: If you’re planning new gardens, now is the time to choose blossom trees. Prunus come in many forms, from tall grafts with clear trunks (great for driveways and walkways) to low, spreading forms for lawns. Always consider eventual height, spread, and root system before planting close to houses or paths – falling blossom, sticky underfoot, and autumn leaves can be a nuisance on paved areas. There’s a tree for every spot, so seek advice to match your choice to your garden. Weeds & Beds: deal with weeds early by hoeing or hand-pulling before they set seed. If you prefer not to use sprays, try natural alternatives that dehydrate weeds on hot sunny days. Annual weeds are easily managed, but perennials like convolvulus or couch will need persistence. Salt dissolved in hot water is an inexpensive, effective control for many annual weeds, but it is not systemic, so if washed off, it will need to be reapplied. Planting & Pots: This is the perfect time to sow seeds for summer colour, directly in the ground or in trays with a layer of seed-raising mix on top of potting mix. Transplant once seedlings have developed strong roots and hardened before planting outside. For baskets, choose shallow-rooted plants such as pansies, lobelia, small petunias, nemesia, or dwarf sweet peas, with slow-release fertiliser and water crystals added. Established potted shrubs may be rootbound – remove from pot, trim back roots, and re-pot with fresh mix and fertiliser. Roses and hydrangeas need deep pots to keep roots cool; lining pots with tin foil (shiny side out) helps prevent overheating. Ensure all potted plants have excellent drainage and consistent water. Shrubs & Flowers: Trim back winter and early-spring-flowering shrubs before new growth gets away. Layer azaleas, rhododendrons, magnolias, and other low growers by pegging a branch into the soil to root. Stake tall perennials such as delphiniums, peonies, asters, and phlox now, before they shoot up. Lavenders are making new growth; give them a dressing of lime, and trim lightly. Replace very woody, tired plants with fresh ones. Bougainvillea should be cut back once new buds appear, then fed and watered to encourage strong flowering. Tubular begonias can be set into damp sawdust or compost until sprouting, then potted on, but once in growth, never let them dry out until flowering finishes. Roses are leafing up, and aphids will appear soon. Rub them off by hand or leave for birds and predators; if spraying, wait until foliage hardens. Lawns: Feed established lawns just before or during rain to keep them lush. New lawns should be sown thickly to outpace weeds. Avoid feeding very new lawns; they need to push roots deep for strength. Keep mower blades high in spring to thicken grass. Vegetables: In the vegetable garden, plant lettuces in fortnightly intervals, get peas and climbing beans into sunny, manured ground with supports, and sow corn and pumpkins, protecting seedlings from frost. Keep mounding potatoes as shoots appear, and cover if frosts threaten. A quick potato guide: Waxy (boiling, salads, soups): Draga, Frisia, Nadine. All-purpose: Desiree, Rua, Vivaldi. Floury (mash, roast, chips, baking): Agria, Ilam Hardy, Red Rascal. Herbs are putting on fresh growth, prune back old stems, enrich the soil with compost and lime, and pick often to keep them producing. Fruit: Strawberries and rhubarb are stirring, mulch with manure-enriched compost, then straw, pine needles, or untreated lawn clippings. Blackcurrants can still be pruned; mulch with compost and potash afterward. September is full of promise: blossom, bees, new growth, and the thrill of planting for the season ahead. Take time to enjoy spring and all it offers, even between the showers, frosts, and the inevitable winds! Cheers, Linda

Root prunning potted plant.