Gardening in Waitaki July 1st 2025

We’re well into winter now, those frosty mornings certainly remind us! But in between the chill, there are small promises of spring. I’ve already noticed jonquils peeking out and beginning to bloom on those rare mild days. Winter in the garden is quieter, but it’s also the perfect time for preparation. From pruning roses to planning your veg patch, there’s plenty to do if you know where to start. Convolvulus and Cutbacks: In my past large garden, this time of year meant cutting back deciduous shrubs and tackling stubborn weeds, especially convolvulus. If you've dealt with it, you’ll know how deeply it weaves itself through everything. I once removed a whole wheelbarrow of those wiry white roots from a tiny patch! There’s real satisfaction in pulling a convolvulus root out in one go. I don’t use chemical sprays, so digging and hand-pulling were the only way. Winter’s bare garden beds make this much easier. Pruning Basics: When and Why: Before you reach for your secateurs, consider how the plant grows. Does it flower on new wood or old wood? That little detail can make all the difference. Prune at the wrong time, and you might miss a season of flowers. But don’t be afraid to try; a "mistake" is a chance to learn, and plants forgive us. Rose Pruning by Type: Late winter is prime time for rose pruning, as the wood has hardened. Timing varies depending on your climate, so aim to finish before buds begin to swell. Here’s a quick guide: Bush Roses: Open up the center by removing inward-facing stems. Cut back the height by two-thirds, always to an outward-facing bud. Remove old, damaged wood and use a wire brush on woody centers to stimulate new shoots. Floribundas: These roses bloom in clusters. Remove some older stems at the base and reduce younger ones by two-thirds to encourage fresh growth. Hybrid Teas: Known for their single, perfect blooms, they can be pruned quite hard, again, to an outward-facing bud. Standard Roses: Treat them like bush roses. Climbing Roses: Train main canes horizontally to encourage flowers along their length. Replace older, unproductive canes with new ones as needed. Pillar Roses: Great for arches and pergolas. I use hedge trimmers for a rough cut, then tidy up with secateurs. Fairy & Flower Carpet roses: A quick hedge trim works well, but thin out the center with secateurs for better airflow and health. Hydrangeas & Lavender: Leave them be for now. The old growth protects new shoots from frost. Planting Bare-Rooted Trees: Bare-rooted deciduous trees are arriving in garden centers now. Get them in the ground while it’s soft and moist, but avoid frozen or waterlogged soil. Hold off planting Evergreens. They won't start growing until spring anyway. Buy now, but keep them in their pots outdoors in a sheltered spot to acclimatize. Planting near a house? Always read the label. I’ve seen many small shrubs grow into big problems when planted too close to walls or fences. Vegetables. Heavy winter rain can leave the soil soggy, and most veggies won’t grow well in cold, wet ground. Don’t worry, it’s normal. Now’s the time to prep: I like to spread aged pig manure across my raised beds. Worms will get to work and have the soil ready by spring. Early seed potatoes can be “chitted” indoors. You can leave them in the dark for long pale sprouts, or better yet, keep them in a bright, frost-free spot. They’ll grow short, knobbly, greenish-purple shoots, perfect for planting later. Fruit Tree Planting & Pruning: Now is the time to plant deciduous fruit trees, just avoid frosty hollows for early starters like plums, pears, and apricots. Peaches & Nectarines: Prune in early to late spring to maintain an open center. Spring cuts heal better as growth begins. Cherries: Need summer pruning for the first 5 years — always on dry, sunny days to avoid disease. Apples: I've learned not to prune too hard in winter, as it only produces those pesky water sprouts in spring with no blossom. Water sprouts are thin shoots that arise from the trunk or branches of an apple tree and drain vital energy from the tree without providing any benefit in return. Now, I prune those vigorously growing trees in summer instead, when the tree has fully leafed out. This encourages balance without encouraging wild new shoots. Espaliers (cordons): Prune weak growth in winter to promote strong spring shoots. Save larger cuts for summer. Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in Waitaki June 24th 2025

Gosh, the weeks are racing by — with the days so short, it’s Friday before I know it! The leaf cleanup will feel endless for some right now. This is the best time of year to make big changes in the garden. If something needs to be shifted or removed, don’t wait. I often find myself clearing a space, then walking around to find something well-established that would be perfect to move into the gap. In my past large garden, I would have made a start on rose pruning — it always took me a few weeks to get through them, and as I pruned, I also cleaned up around them. Once finished, I would spray the lot with a mix of copper and winter oil to seal the cuts and protect against fungal issues. If you’re new to rose pruning, start with a sharp pair of secateurs. Remove anything growing into the middle of the bush; an open centre is required to let in light and air. Make your cuts on an angle just above an outward-facing bud. Cut back any branches crossing over one another, again to an outward-facing bud, and remove old, woody or spindly growth completely. Be sure the crown of the rose is kept clear of compost or soil, and give this area a thorough spray as well. New roses also need pruning, even if they were trimmed before delivery. If you’re planting a new rose where one has previously grown, swap the soil with fresh soil from another part of the garden. Make a planting hole that is a few centimetres larger than the full spread of the roots. This is usually about 60cm (2ft) in diameter and at least 30cm (1ft) deep. Some gardeners have used a cardboard box with the bottom removed to line the hole; by the time the cardboard rots away, the plant has established. Boost plant growth by applying a fertiliser high in nitrogen, such as sulphate of ammonia. Improve soil structure by incorporating some well-rotted manure or organic matter into the backfill soil, then firm this around the roots and water well. Elsewhere in the garden, it’s time to deal with moss and lichen on paths and walkways before they get dangerously slippery. You can use a moss-kill product, but a watering can of diluted household bleach or a sprinkling of an inexpensive laundry powder will also do the job. Once moss has blackened, it can be raked off. Seed sowing Flower seeds for spring and summer: I’ve planted delphiniums, snapdragons, poppies, lupins, and cosmos. Even without a greenhouse, they’ll germinate slowly in a sunny, sheltered spot with a cover of plastic or glass ( with breath spaces) and frost cloth; this will reward you with strong plants come spring. I find winter-started seedlings outperform those sown in spring. Ponds: This is also a good time to give fish ponds some attention. Move your fish to a bucket of pond water, then empty and clean the pond. Water lilies in containers can be repotted now too — they’re hungry plants that love rich soil but need careful setup to prevent fertiliser leaching into the water. Use a base of clean gravel and clay or heavy cardboard and clean gravel, then add manure, slow-release fertiliser, and soil before replanting. Finish with more soil and a thick topping of gravel. Trim back roots if needed to fit the plant back in. Refill the pond, but wait a couple of weeks before returning the fish. Lawns:Moss in lawns is widespread after rain; sulphate of ammonia dissolved in water will deal with the moss. Once the moss blackens, rake it out. Vegie garden update: Along the coast where winters stay mild, things are still growing steadily. Keep rotating your crops — root veg where leafy crops were, and vice versa. Plant peas and buttercrunch lettuce if you have raised beds that get sun all day. Buttercrunch thrives in the cooler months and has such a sweet, tender flavour. The quiet powerhouses of the veg garden are the perennial veg. Now’s the time to mulch generously, feed the soil with compost, leaf mould or forest floor wood trimmings to support asparagus, rhubarb, globe artichokes, strawberries and Welsh onions. Even in the stillness of winter, the garden is deepening, getting ready to surge into life again. Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in Waitaki June 16th 2025

Matariki sky.

The shortest day is next friday, and the sun still beams down on those non-dismal winter days. The Matariki holiday will give us a long weekend—just enough time to catch up on essential garden jobs. There’s plenty to do at this time of year: spreading compost and pea straw, trimming hedges, pruning, chainsawing trees, cutting back perennials, and mowing up the last of the fallen leaves. Once the clean up is done, the garden can rest—and so can we. It won’t be long before spring stirs things to life again. For now, I’m busy sowing seeds and potting up plants in readiness. Even without a large garden to put to bed anymore (whew!), I like to be prepared for that slow seasonal awakening. Sowing Seeds on the Coast: Seed trays need to be under cover with plenty of light.—Germination happens on those sunny days when the ground holds warmth. Once seedlings show two true leaves, prick them out into punnets and keep them protected until the frosts pass. Mist with water only in the morning and only when the potting mix feels dry—this gives the mix time to warm again before the chill of night. Weeds & Self-Seeders: While weeding, you might spot rogue trees and shrubs—bird-sown surprises popping up in odd places. These can become well-established among rhododendrons and camellias before being noticed. It’s best to remove them entirely, not just cut them back, as they’ll reshoot and compete for root space. Look out for self-sown treasures too—always a bonus! If you left polyanthus or violas in the ground, they’ll likely have multiplied. They can be lifted, divided, and replanted now. A sprinkle of dried blood will green them up after transplanting. Camellias and daphnes can also benefit from this boost if they’re looking tired. Sweet peas can be sown now for early spring flowering. Pruning & Trimming: It’s now too late in the year to trim soft-wooded trees and shrubs—wait until spring growth has firmed up. Ivy, however, is an exception. Like wisteria, it can be cut back at any time. If left unchecked, each soft leader can become a thick, woody trunk. Bare branches in winter make it easier to assess deciduous trees and shrubs. Remove overcrowded or crossing branches and consider reducing large limbs that throw excessive shade in summer. Opening up the canopy can brighten the house and improve views. If a tree near the house has outgrown its space, consider replacing it with a smaller variety that still provides structure without dominating. Conifers, in particular, can outgrow their welcome in just a decade. If lower branches are removed, they won’t regrow, and the tree’s form will be permanently altered. To fill a sudden gap from tree removal, try placing a section of manuka screening behind the replacement plant for shelter. Once the new plant fills out, the screen can be taken away. Lawns & Liming: If your winter lawn is underperforming despite regular feeding and watering, try applying lime. This helps to raise the soil pH to around 6 (mildly acidic), promoting stronger grass growth. Vegetable Garden: Garlic Time: The shortest day is garlic planting time. Prepare the bed with manure-rich compost and plant NZ-grown garlic cloves (pointy end up) about 7–8cm deep in a sunny spot. Garlic bulbs form in late spring and early summer, so make sure the soil stays moist during dry spells. Avoid mulching garlic, as soggy conditions can cause cloves to rot. Feed with blood and bone or a liquid fertiliser through the growing season. If you’ve got empty beds, sow a green crop like mustard now. Scatter seed thickly and leave it until spring before digging it in. Cheers, Linda

Gardening in Waitaki June 10th 2025

As we approach the shortest day of the year, there’s still a surprising warmth in the June sun that takes the edge off the morning chill. But once the sun dips below the horizon, there’s no mistaking—we’re deep in winter. https://bestinzealand.co.nz/good-sorts-oamaru-couples-monarch-butterfly-mission-takes-flight/ What a wonderful feature Gordon and Joan Martin received on TV One last week, highlighting their inspiring efforts to support and protect Monarch butterflies here in North Otago. Their dedication is a reminder of the vital role each of us can play in preserving these beautiful creatures. As a community, it's up to us not only to enjoy their presence but also to actively contribute by planting butterfly-friendly flowers and saving local seeds to help sustain their habitat. If you're a seed collector with more seeds than you need, consider sharing them with the community by dropping them off to Robyn at the Garden Corner, located at our Resource Recovery Park. For several years now, Gordon’s Swan plants have been available there, and we're pleased to say this will continue into the next growing season. Rogue Trees and Shrubs: Now that deciduous trees and shrubs have lost their leaves, gardeners may begin to notice rogue trees that birds have introduced to the garden. Some of these may have taken root among established shrubs like rhododendrons and camellias, becoming quite entrenched and difficult to remove. It’s best to remove these unwanted trees completely if possible, as they grow stronger each year and can interfere with the roots of your desired plants. In coastal areas, it’s often possible to transplant these rogue trees and shrubs at this time of year, provided their root systems aren’t too disturbed. This is also a great time to lift and replant many self-seeded plants such as hellebores, lupins, poppies, pansies, violas, forget-me-nots, and primulas. If you have polyanthas left in the ground from last year, you’ll likely find that they’ve multiplied. These can be easily divided and replanted. After transplanting, a light dressing of dried blood will help green up both polyanthas and primroses, giving them a strong start for the season. Roses: New seasons roses are in Garden centers now, if planting make sure it is in a place that has a full days sun with good drainage and clay free soil, if you do strike clay dig well down breaking the clay, deep enough to add a shovel or two of stones or gravel to act as a sump where there would have been a clay pan holding water.This applies to any hole dug for a tree or shrub planted in soil with a clay base. Dahlias will be frost affected now, if remaining in the ground cut back and mulch with compost or straw to protect tubers. If clumps have increased and need to be reduced, do it now by digging up and pulling apart or putting a sharp spade through large clumps removing tubers not needed to be planted somewhere else or given away. Birds in Winter: Winter can be a tough time for birds. I like to scatter a couple of handfuls of wild bird seed on the lawn—once they discover the routine, they quickly return each day. Offering sugar water in a raised spot, ideally sheltered by surrounding foliage, gives birds a sense of safety while they feed. Once they find it, you’ll notice they return regularly for the energy boost. Vegetables: In the vegetable garden where green leafy vegetables and onions will be growing next summer give a dressing of 250 grams per square metre of dolomite lime. If you follow a regular rotation this will ensure that most of the garden receives lime once in three years, permanent crops like rhubarb should be limed every three years as well. Gardens fed annually with compost rather than chemical fertilisers tend to gradually rise the PH level eventually making regular liming unnecessary. Have garlic ready to plant on the shortest day Saturday 21st June. Fruit: New season's bare rooted trees will be in Garden centers this month, preparing the ground in an all day, full sun location to get the best fruiting results. Fruit trees need room to spread so as not to be shaded by neighboring trees then everything depends on the season to bring bee's out to pollinate when in blossom. Cheers Linda.

Gardening in Waitaki June 3rd 2025

Hello winter here in Waitaki, it has been late in getting here on the coast, but the frost cloth and winter woolies are now out and on in those low-lying areas. Pruning: Once trees and shrubs have shed leaves, they are open for inspection. Many ornamental trees need attention, crossing branches, too many branches blocking light from buds once in leaf, height and width reduction. Most trees are pruned in winter while sap is down, and insects/diseases that can potentially invade pruning cuts are dormant as well. In winter, the worst disease is silver leaf, which attacks stone and pip fruit, roses, poplar, willows, and escallonia hedges. It is during cold, wet weather that spores are released, which can then enter the pruning cuts, a reason to avoid pruning on cool, wet days. Spores are not released during dry weather, this is the reason that some susceptible trees prefer a summer prune. Thinning is the removal of an entire branch if two branches are doing the same job. This technique rids the tree of weak and diseased branches and increases light penetration and air movement. Heading back: is shortening the length of a branch back to a bud or the next side branch. Rose pruning is done once rosewood has had enough time to harden. The end of June, July, or even August is not too late. Trim ragged catmint back to the new growth you should be able to see coming through, then dig around or mulch to encourage new roots. Ericas are flowering now, these plants are very hardy and perfect ground covers, over wall spillers, and great as a wide border to narrow down a garden. They usually grow only 6 - 12 inches high and spread 2 - 3 feet. Upright Erica melanthera is one of the prettiest winter-flowering small shrubs, bright pink, 60cm high by 1m wide, fully grown. Leucadendrons are looking wonderful now, perfect for picking and will last for weeks in a vase. Remember not to give them rich compost or fertiliser, they prefer poor soil conditions. Even though we are now in winter, there is plenty on offer to plant; deciduous trees will settle in with a firm stake, and roses do best planted now. If planting evergreen shrubs that look like they have been nursed, get them used to the outside temperatures before planting, or nurse and plant in spring. Plant labels should tell you their hardiness. Sowing seeds: It is too late for seeds to germinate in the garden and continue into winter, however, I have sown cottage flower seeds like poppies, cornflower, and cosmos in seed trays, which are sitting in a well-lit, sheltered place protected by frost cloth, but with the shorter days now I do not expect a lot of progress. If you have more seeds collected during Autumn than you need, please drop them into Robyn at the Resource Recovery Garden corner in Chelmer st. The more locally grown seeds we have, the more locally grown flowers and veg seedlings we can produce next growing season. Powder form fertilisers would be wasted if used while the garden is resting, but compost and well-rotted manure will work as a mulch for plant roots when taken down by worms to be there when needed in early spring. Mulching: If you have a bare garden over winter, opportunistic weeds will germinate during fine days; mulching will prevent this, plus protect not only plant roots but soil as well. If you do not have a green cover crop in, or you've just run out of time to get winter food crops in, put your garden to bed by mulching. Sawdust can be used on wet gardens, straw, shredded garden cut back foliage, or autumn leaves, shredded with the lawn mower can go on dry gardens after a good watering. Any store-bought Lawns getting frost can be left with length to cope with winter, perhaps a last tidy up for those in milder areas, and clippings spread on gardens. Vegetables: On the coast in gardens getting winter sun, sow broad beans, garlic, shallots, and rhubarb. Further inland, a little lime spread and mulched cover will do the job until spring. Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in Waitaki June 28th 2025

Into Another Month, and another stop-start week with King’s Birthday weekend upon us. June marks the time when many gardeners begin to pull back and tuck their gardens in for winter. Once the spent summer growth has been cut back, it's a great idea to add mulch to help insulate the soil and protect plant roots from winter chills. Drainage Check-Up: Recent rainfall has highlighted any poorly draining spots in the garden. If you’ve noticed plants struggling in soggy soil, dig them up and work on improving the site. Often, the issue lies with compacted clay beneath the topsoil. Dig deep down to the clay layer, break it up thoroughly, sprinkle gypsum over it, and add stones or at least three shovels of gravel to create a sump for water drainage. Replant, and your plant should thrive without risk of root rot. Root Cuttings – A Winter Project: This week, I’ve taken root cuttings of Hydrangea paniculata and a few other tricky-to-strike plants. If you’ve had trouble propagating some of your favourites, root cuttings might be the solution. They’re one of the most reliable and cost-effective ways to multiply many perennial and woody plants, especially during the dormant season from June to September. Woody Plants: Keep in mind that many trees are grafted onto different rootstocks, so only take cuttings from non-grafted trees and shrubs. Shrubs: Carefully remove soil from one side of the plant near the base to find healthy, pencil-thick roots. Take 2–6 inch (5–15 cm) root sections and cut them into 2–3 inch (5–7.5 cm) pieces. Use a flat cut on the top and a slanted cut on the bottom to keep track of orientation. Plant the cuttings in a deep pot, raised bed, or directly in a frost-free spot in the garden. Add a little sand to the bottom of each hole and dust the bottom ends with powdered sulfur to help prevent fungal issues. Cover with coarse river sand or fine gravel, and water only when the soil is dry. Perennials: It's often easier to lift the entire plant and select thick, fleshy roots. Take cuttings as above, replant the parent, and water it in well. In 3–4 weeks, cuttings should develop roots, and some may begin to shoot. Once shoots appear, feed with a half-strength liquid fertilizer. Transplant when established. Plants Suitable for Root Cuttings Include: Crabapple, Figs, Hydrangeas, Lilacs, Mock Orange, Poplar, Pussy Willow, Red & Yellow Twig Dogwoods, Old Roses, Snowball Bush, Weeping Willow, Yucca, Aster, Bear’s Breeches, Tall Phlox, Geranium, Globe Thistle, Hollyhocks, Horseradish, Oriental Poppy, Primrose, Rhubarb, Sage, Sea Holly, Perennial Statice, Raspberry, and Blackberry. Winter Garden Maintenance: remove all old hellebore leaves, as the undersides may be harbouring overwintering greenfly. New foliage will soon emerge as the flowers appear in mid-winter. Roses: Clean up all fallen leaves beneath bushes to reduce pest and disease risk. Apply a clean-up spray of lime sulphur to defoliate and treat scale, mites, moss, and lichen. Later in July, after pruning, follow up with a spray of Champion Copper and Conqueror Oil. This timing is ideal as bees, butterflies, and ladybirds are largely absent. Lily Bulbs: Continue planting in raised beds. Don’t allow roots to dry out. Gladioli: Begin early plantings now for blooms in November. Polyanthus: Brighten your garden or entryway with polyanthus in pots or beds. Veggies & Fruit: Coastal areas: Sow broad beans, garlic, shallots, and rhubarb. Colder inland regions: Best to wait—very little can be planted now: Fruit trees & deciduous trees with lichen: Apply a lime sulphur spray to clean them up—but skip apricot trees, as lime sulphur will burn their fruit buds. Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in Waitaki May 20th 2025

japanese maple osakazuki in my past garden.

The end of mellow May leads us into a new month bringing different gardening challenges with the start of winter chills. Lack of wind means all leaves haven't been tugged from trees, and soil has not dried-out yet. Frost will soon play a part in robbing the soil of moisture from soil so keep an eye on maple trees. if leaves shrivel quickly during colour change it's an indication of root dryness. Rose flowering is coming to an end, but don't cut spent flower heads off, leave all types of roses to make seed which will harden wood before the big prune in july. New season's bare-root roses should be in Garden centers. If you want to plant roses, prepare the ground now by digging in old stable manure or bagged rose mix. Bare-rooted, winter-planted roses are less likely to suffer from planting stress than roses planted in spring. Re-pot container-grown buxus if they look pot-bound. Buxus root growth is prolific, and they don't seem to suffer from the removal of half a root ball. I replaced the old growing medium with half potting mix and sifted soil. Winter colour in pots, plant polyanthus, pansies, primulas, snapdragons, and wallflowers. I have just planted out a garden with wall flowers and forget- me- not, both will fill out from now on and should be in full bloom towards the end of winter. Lawns: The unusual autumn rain we have had has kept lawns green, but growth should now be slowing down; however, lawn mowers will still be on the go until the last of the leaves. Next time it rains, sprinkle some lime over the lawns for a boost before they stop growing. Gardeners in the past preferred lime just before the first frost because the soil then has all winter to absorb the lime, but lime is never spread on a dry, wilted lawn or a soggy, wet lawn. I like to follow the old, tried and tested ways that get results. Keep in mind for the next growing season, lawn grass grows best on a nutrient ratio of 3 parts nitrogen, 1 part phosphorus, and 2 parts potassium. (12-4-8). While this is an ideal ratio, you may not be able to find the exact ratio in a lawn fertilizer; a close match will do. If ground pH is below 6 on the pH scale, lime will make a marked improvement in growing conditions come spring. One sign of a low soil pH is the presence of excess moss and weeds in your garden or lawn. Moss and weeds are acid-loving plants, though not a guaranteed indicator; an excess of moss and weeds is a good sign that you should raise the soil pH. Another sign that you need to raise soil pH is when fertilizer doesn’t seem to be doing its job. Acidic soil prevents fertilizer from functioning properly. Vegetables: On the coast, sow broad beans, garlic, shallots, and rhubarb. In colder areas, nothing much can be planted without protection, but covering bare soil with a thick layer of mulch will keep the soil from remaining wet and frozen over the winter months. Fruit: Bare-rooted fruit trees will be arriving in garden centers soon. ask now if they will be stocking the required trees and have them put aside on arrival. Ground can be prepared now for planting fruit trees. choose an open, sunny position, sheltered from strong winds. Fruit trees will grow in a wide range of soil types as long as there is good drainage. Plums and pear rootstock tolerate heavier soils than most other fruit trees. Using good quality compost will improve water retention in lighter soils and improve drainage in heavier soils, as well as improving fertility. Pruning of newly planted fruit trees will not take place until trees have branched. During the early stages of tree development, the main goal is to develop the shape and framework that will support heavy crops of fruit. Pruning: Apple trees: After initial shaping of apple trees, the only pruning necessary is the removal of excess twiggy growth. I have found that pruning water shoots (new growth) during winter will only stimulate growth, causing unwanted growth the following season, but summer pruning on established trees will cause the tree to grow less new wood during the growing season. Apple trees produce fruit on spurs (short stubby growths attached to main branches. They continue producing on the same spurs for several years. Pears and cherry fruit also grow on spurs and require similar treatment. Apricot: Prune apricot trees in late winter or early spring as the new leaves and flowers begin to open, or straight after fruiting. Newly planted apricots can be pruned soon after planting. Remove all damaged or broken shoots and limbs and all branches with a narrow crotch (those that grow up more than out) and all branches that are within 18 inches of the ground. Shorten last year’s main branches to about 30 inches. Peach and nectarine: These trees flower on new wood made the previous summer. prune hard to encourage new growth; otherwise, fruit will be produced further and further out on the branches each year. Flower buds are plump, while growth buds are flatter. Plum trees produce fruit on the same spurs for several years. Once a shape has been established, it requires little pruning because excessive pruning can overstimulate tree growth at the expense of fruit. Remove vertical branching and water sprouts regularly. Look at a tree, and it is easy to distinguish the water sprouts from the regular growth. They grow straight up from the canopy branches and trunk, and the branches are thin and scraggly in appearance. A heavy hand when pruning in winter will increase the number of water sprouts on the tree. When pruning plum trees in the winter, only remove 20 percent of the growth from the previous year. Cheers, Linda.