Gardening in Waitaki July 1st 2025

We’re well into winter now, those frosty mornings certainly remind us! But in between the chill, there are small promises of spring. I’ve already noticed jonquils peeking out and beginning to bloom on those rare mild days. Winter in the garden is quieter, but it’s also the perfect time for preparation. From pruning roses to planning your veg patch, there’s plenty to do if you know where to start. Convolvulus and Cutbacks: In my past large garden, this time of year meant cutting back deciduous shrubs and tackling stubborn weeds, especially convolvulus. If you've dealt with it, you’ll know how deeply it weaves itself through everything. I once removed a whole wheelbarrow of those wiry white roots from a tiny patch! There’s real satisfaction in pulling a convolvulus root out in one go. I don’t use chemical sprays, so digging and hand-pulling were the only way. Winter’s bare garden beds make this much easier. Pruning Basics: When and Why: Before you reach for your secateurs, consider how the plant grows. Does it flower on new wood or old wood? That little detail can make all the difference. Prune at the wrong time, and you might miss a season of flowers. But don’t be afraid to try; a "mistake" is a chance to learn, and plants forgive us. Rose Pruning by Type: Late winter is prime time for rose pruning, as the wood has hardened. Timing varies depending on your climate, so aim to finish before buds begin to swell. Here’s a quick guide: Bush Roses: Open up the center by removing inward-facing stems. Cut back the height by two-thirds, always to an outward-facing bud. Remove old, damaged wood and use a wire brush on woody centers to stimulate new shoots. Floribundas: These roses bloom in clusters. Remove some older stems at the base and reduce younger ones by two-thirds to encourage fresh growth. Hybrid Teas: Known for their single, perfect blooms, they can be pruned quite hard, again, to an outward-facing bud. Standard Roses: Treat them like bush roses. Climbing Roses: Train main canes horizontally to encourage flowers along their length. Replace older, unproductive canes with new ones as needed. Pillar Roses: Great for arches and pergolas. I use hedge trimmers for a rough cut, then tidy up with secateurs. Fairy & Flower Carpet roses: A quick hedge trim works well, but thin out the center with secateurs for better airflow and health. Hydrangeas & Lavender: Leave them be for now. The old growth protects new shoots from frost. Planting Bare-Rooted Trees: Bare-rooted deciduous trees are arriving in garden centers now. Get them in the ground while it’s soft and moist, but avoid frozen or waterlogged soil. Hold off planting Evergreens. They won't start growing until spring anyway. Buy now, but keep them in their pots outdoors in a sheltered spot to acclimatize. Planting near a house? Always read the label. I’ve seen many small shrubs grow into big problems when planted too close to walls or fences. Vegetables. Heavy winter rain can leave the soil soggy, and most veggies won’t grow well in cold, wet ground. Don’t worry, it’s normal. Now’s the time to prep: I like to spread aged pig manure across my raised beds. Worms will get to work and have the soil ready by spring. Early seed potatoes can be “chitted” indoors. You can leave them in the dark for long pale sprouts, or better yet, keep them in a bright, frost-free spot. They’ll grow short, knobbly, greenish-purple shoots, perfect for planting later. Fruit Tree Planting & Pruning: Now is the time to plant deciduous fruit trees, just avoid frosty hollows for early starters like plums, pears, and apricots. Peaches & Nectarines: Prune in early to late spring to maintain an open center. Spring cuts heal better as growth begins. Cherries: Need summer pruning for the first 5 years — always on dry, sunny days to avoid disease. Apples: I've learned not to prune too hard in winter, as it only produces those pesky water sprouts in spring with no blossom. Water sprouts are thin shoots that arise from the trunk or branches of an apple tree and drain vital energy from the tree without providing any benefit in return. Now, I prune those vigorously growing trees in summer instead, when the tree has fully leafed out. This encourages balance without encouraging wild new shoots. Espaliers (cordons): Prune weak growth in winter to promote strong spring shoots. Save larger cuts for summer. Cheers, Linda.