Gardening in North Otago September 27th 2011

A chill in the air this week but still nice and sunny to bring the bees out.

This week all our gravel paths have had a work over, they pack down hard over winter and need grubbing and raking to get them weed free and looking fresh again. We use crushed marble from the Dunback Quarry this includes a good amount fines in the mix which help the gravel settle nicely.

I have had the sprayer on the go again to beat the weeds, if only the annual flowers I have planted would grow as fast!
If you do not want to use chemical sprays on annual weeds why not try some of the natural alternatives on sale, these work on hot sunny days when plants are very thirsty. The leaf of the plant collapses which means there is nothing left to support the roots causing the plant to die.
Perennial weeds like convolvulus and couch grass are not so easy to kill with alternative weed spray because their roots are long and strong but if you are prepared to keep at them, spraying what they send up you will beat them. When spraying flowering weeds be mindful of not harming bee's they are a HUGE part of natures plan for our World as we know it and need it to be.
The most economical weed control is good old common table salt, purchased in bulk or in kilo bags at agricultural outlets. Use it at the rate of 240 grams (about 12 heaped tablespoons) to a litre of warm or hot water to dissolve it, and then spray it on the foliage of the weeds, again in sunny dry conditions.
This works very fast on annual weeds but perennials probably needing further salt treatment.
If spraying only the foliage, at the above rates, there will be, little residual damage done to the soil. To make absolutely sure, give the area a good watering after the weeds have died.

Trim shrubs that flowered in late winter now before they put out new growth on past growth and get leggy, this partially applies to ericas, callunas and hebes which should not have old flowers left on to make seed as this makes them become woody.

All of this month is the time to layer azaleas and rhododendrons and low growing magnolias by pinning a low growing slim branch down to the soil and firming in with compost and soil. Hopefully by the end of this growing season this branch will have developed strong roots allowing it to be cut free from the mother plant and potted up to grow on as a new bush.

Wind put's stress on plants, trees & shrubs producing new growth, their roots are working hard and moisture is a must deep root watering is best and newly planted shrubs and trees need to be really well staked, if trunks and roots are moving around growth will be slow and stunted or not at all.

I have mentioned tubular begonias and should have added to bed them down into damp (not wet) sawdust or peat until they are sprouting well before potting or planting out. Once they are damp they must never dry out again until its time to store them again.

Lawns are growing strongly now, flat weeds and clover can be sprayed out now, liquid fertiliser can be added at the same time. Dry lawn foods need to be applied when we next get rain.

Herbs
If you have not cut your herbs back yet do it as soon as possible because they are really starting to put on growth, feed manure rich compost with lime added and keep picking often to encourage continual new growth all season for your salads and cooking.

Vegetables:
Still no white butterfly's about (in my garden) keep planting out but when the winds arrive deep watering is required. Keep mounding up potatoes as they push leaf through and cover at night should there be another cold snap which will blacken off new growth.
My peas are well up. Like climbing beans they need to be planted in an open sunny place and support has to go in when they are planted so they are not disturbed once they start growing. Once supported well you will not have to keep propping them up as they get heavier.

Cheers, Linda.