Gardening in North Otago 28th August 2013

Terry I will still be in Ch Ch on Saturday morn, you can call me on 0274430256. Hi Terry & Frances, I have had a break from the garden this week with the arrival of another Granddaughter in Christchurch, how blessed are we?, a new baby a year for the past eight years and I am now back doing my Nana duties and loving it! However I had been continuing to cut back the lavenders because I saw them starting to put out new growth. Really old woody bushes can be cut back hard to encourage new lower growth, or time to replace them if they do not respond. Newer lavender plants just need a hair cut and fed manure enriched compost and a little lime. Softer shrubs that are encroaching on drive and walkways can be trimmed back , they will soon recover with new spring growth. I have been reducing the height on some of my taller shrubs like phebaliums, pittosporums, psudopanax and other busy natives. You can do this if height is a problem without spoiling the shape of shrubs.What I do is cut out the center branch down to where the other branches bush out. this removes the natural point at the top of the shrub and will sometimes reduce the height by 2 or more meters.The shrubs will soon send up a new leader but will also put more growth into the side branching which can be trimmed into shape if a problem. With new spring growth happening this is the time to do this sort of height & width control. A lot of climbers are in bud now ready to do their spring thing so when trimming watch you are not cutting off new buds. Hardenbergia ( happy wanderer) flowered in early winter so that is one that can be cut back. Jasmines have been knocked by frosts in my garden, I will leave them a bit longer until I am sure the frosts are over before trimming them. If you have still not feed your roses do it as soon as possible! they are moving fast now and need food kept up to them if you want them to stay healthy. That goes for most plants now, If you have no time to do anything else in the garden feeding plants is a must for health and vigour to take them right through to autumn, it is well worth the effort and will minimize the spaying needed for unhealthy plants. Slow release fertilisers are a safe bet for continual feeding over a long period. They are very clean and easy to apply, and now days formulated to feed specific plants. Now would be a good time to mention plants that resent being fed. Many South African plants and Australian natives such as proteas, leucodendrons, banksias, and all grevillia's do not need feeding. I have lost some of these because they had absorbed fertiliser from neighbouring plants. There is still time to divide hosta's if they are still not showing a lot of leaf, these dramatic shade loving perennials can really highlight a shaded spot with their fresh greens and variegated light shades. Simply lift established clumps at least 4 to 5 years old, use a sharp spade to slice them into a few good sizes pieces, then replant. They also look great in pots but get slug bate around them as soon as they start showing leaf or try some of the slug repellent methods that have been passed down by gardeners listed below. Coffee Grounds: Used coffee grounds spread around plants may work. Epsom salts sprinkled on the soil will supposedly deter slugs and also helps prevent Magnesium deficiency in your plants. Magnesium helps to deepen color, thickens petals and increases root structure. Oat Bran: Scatter oat bran on the soil to deter slugs and snails. Builders Sand: try barriers of sharp textured builders sand.(not beach sand) Nut Shells: Ground walnuts shells have been known to work. Sprigs of rosemary scattered around are said to repel slugs. Try a mulch of pine needles, these work well around strawberry plants. It's the perfect time to choose and plant the camellias and rhododendrons on offer at Garden centers while they are showing buds and flower. They prefer semi shade or afternoon shaded areas of the garden. I am continuing to sow seeds under cover, the seeds I planted two weeks ago are up already and getting a weekly liquid feed of diluted worm tea. Any seed packs that recommend spring sowing will pop up now. I sow my seeds in trays of compost and soil combined with a layer of seed raising mix on the top, this way your seed raising mix will go further. Once planted cover the trays with plastic or glass, but use spacers to let air circulate between the plastic / glass and tray. Vegetables If you plan to grow vegetables this summer get the garden ready now by digging in some weed free compost, then let the soil settle for a while before planting. Plant later in the day when the heat is out of the sun, then keep them moist until they take hold and start growing. Watering is best done at the start of the day. In area's you do not plan to plant out for a while why do tired soil a favor and sow a green crop to add humus. Mustard, lupine, barley or wheat.These will sprout in no time here on the coast, and further inland from now on. If you do decide to do this dig it in when lush, soft and green, don't let it get to the flowering, stalky stage because it takes too long to break down and is not worth the effort of digging in. Fruit This is also the time to give fruiting shrubs & trees a dressing of pot ash to help with fruiting. Deciduous fruit trees and everything in the way of small fruit should be planted in August at the latest. Now is a good time to shift citrus trees. Cheers, Linda

Gardening in North Otago August 20th 2013

The benefits from the good deep watering we have had here in North Otago will be obvious from now through to early summer. It is still very wet and sticky under foot but plants and new lambs are pushing on and making it feel more like spring everyday. This week I have been doing the final winter clean up around the gardens I don't mulch with pea straw.,These gardens get a covering of the lovely black compost we get each year from the Pukeuri freezing works, which allows the spring bulbs to take center stage for the next couple of months. I do have pea straw in other areas where bulbs are growing and now that I can see where they are popping up I push the straw away from them to give them light. It is at this time of the year I notice yellowing of some plants, the ground gets depleted of nitrogen during winter especially when plants are shallow rooted like camellia and rhododendrons, and potted plants with roots out grown containers. With applications of complete plant food and compost this condition will be rectified. Plant specific slow release fertilisers on offer make it easy to choose the right one and each time it rains or you water the garden food is released to plants. If you have not trimmed back ornamental grass's yet do it now, cut the old seeded ends well back and clean out the dead thatch around the base, its amazing how much you will need to cart away after this hair cut but they will look wonderful and will grow back to their soft wafting shape in no time. Use what you have cut off as mulch around the garden, a cover for the compost or in the chook or calf shed if you have any. I bet the weeds are growing well at your place as they are at mine! I had the sprayer out last week and I see this week it is working so it must be warm enough now. With the ground being so soft hand and hoe weeding is really easy, get them out before they take off and seed everywhere, or dig them in before they seed. Lawns After all the snow & rain moss will thrive in lawns, pathways and garden structures. There are a lot of products out there to deal with moss but killing the moss in lawns is simply a short term measure they do nothing by way of treating the basic problem of moss in lawns. They simply kill the moss which is there. It will return If you really want to eradicate moss from your lawn, then you have to find out the actual problem that is causing it, the reasons are various, but not too difficult to isolate. Moss is a sign that something is basically wrong with your lawn. Things that would be causing moss in your lawn could be: Water logging - in winter or summer. Poor feeding regime - usually shown by light green grass. Soil too acid - carry out a test, lime may be needed. Shaded Lawns - overhanging trees or large shrubs. Mowing lawns too close is a very common cause, for it weakens the grass allowing moss to take hold Drought - if severe enough to harm or kill the grass. Not to be confused with a bit of summer-browning Sandy - free-draining soils. This can weaken the grass and allow moss to take over. Some mosses are quite happy in these conditions. Compaction - continued use by children and pets with no remedial attention by way of aeration in the Autumn. Generally, lawns that are well maintained - which includes being well fed, cut properly, aerated and de-thatched - problems which result in moss should not occur, moss rarely competes with strong growing grass in lawns. Get the grass growing properly starting with the first spring feeding and rake in humus (compost or sieved soil) to add more body, this will encourage worms as well. Slow release grass fertliser is ideal when the ground is wet and rain is about. Treating small areas of lawn moss can be carried out with sulphate of iron watered on at the strength displayed on the pack per sq meter. The moss will turn black and after a couple of weeks you can rake out the dead moss and re-seed. Vegetables Pick winter crops while still at their best - Fold cauliflower leaves over and tie to protect from frost and keep florets tight. Asparagus is a vegetable that repays planting over many years. To prepare beds cultivate deeply and add generous amounts of compost. Existing asparagus beds should be cultivated carefully to avoid damaging the crowns that lie just below the surface, add a new layer of mulch. Here on the coast get spring sowings off to an early start now, use a row of cloches if you have them or stretch out a length of clear polythene to warm and dry out the soil, particularly further inland where the soil will take a bit of thawing out before any planting Can be done. Fruit With fruit trees being well budded up and blossoming we need some sunny days for the bees to come out to turn the blossom into fruit. Keep spray away when the bees are about. Citrus are susceptible to water logging so remove saucers from under potted lemon bushes while it is so wet and always ensure that your bushes in the ground have good drainage and are not sitting in a puddle of water. Cheers, Linda

Gardening in North Otago August 13th 2013

Another good rain here in North Otago this week but leaving the ground wet and soggy when it was just starting to dry out. I am sure nature knows what it is doing and the trees and plants are not complaining, however it is a pain for gardeners wanting to get on with early spring gardening. It is best to keep off wet ground, the last thing soil needs is compacting. To prepare for spring, treat your garden to a late-winter pep-up by digging in plenty of organic matter, such as compost and manure. then remove weeds and apply snail and slug control measures to reduce any winter population build up, slugs love wet conditions. I set to cutting back my wigelias and spirea's, these are lovely old fashioned deciduous shrubs with no center trunk, they send long canes up from the ground that cover themselves in small light & dark flowers in late spring. I remove all the old branches that have flowed long enough, you can tell which branches they are because the wood looks really old and spent compared to the new fresh wood there ready and waiting to take their place. My hypericum (St Johns Wort,green leafed evergreen shrub with large bright yellow flowers got a chop as well, right down to the ground. It had grown really big over a number of years with most of its new growth only on the top. After a couple of days after the chop it was pushing out new growth and will be a manageable bush again soon. Lift and divide perennials such as delphiniums, chrysanthemums, asters and astilbes. Sow seeds of: alyssum, begonia, californian poppy, carnation, celosia, chrysanthemum, cosmos, dahlia, delphinium, dianthus, gypsophila, honesty, nemesia, marigold, pansy, petunia, phlox, portulaca, salvia, snapdragon, sunflower, verbena, viola, viscaria, and zinnia,. Plant seedlings of: alyssum, aquilegia, canterbury bells, carnations, cornflower, cosmos, cineraria, delphinium, pansies, polyanthus, poppy, gypsophila, forget-me not, hollyhock, stock, and viola, .. Want a tree with stunning blooms the size of your hand? The New Zealand-bred Jury magnolia, ‘Felix’ has hot pink flowers up to 30cm wide and mass-blooms in early spring. Growing to 5m, it’s ideal for smaller gardens and needs little pruning. On a smaller scale the new fairy magnolia blush is proving to be a winner for a pretty hedge and looks great in a pot, this magnolia / michelia cross grows 4m high and 3m wide after 10 years, likes full sun or semi shade. Apply a dressing of Rose Food to establish Rose's and Water in well. Lawns: August can be a tricky time of the year for your lawn. This is because we don’t really know exactly what weather we are going to get Fertiliser now to for food to be available when needed. You may find the growth rate of grass increase from now on so it is important to keep on top of your mowing and because this is proving to be a mild August you may consider a broad leaf weed spray to take out any undesirable species that have come into your lawn during winter. Vegetables: With my raised gardens being in a sunny location I feel they have not had enough hard frosts this winter to break up the soil. I am still digging carrots and parsnips using silver beet, and the leeks are growing well, it is so good not to have to worry about the bugs and white butterflies at this time of the year. Onions: although onions prefer a sunny position with a rich but light soil, they will do well in most soils as long as it is firm. You can grow them in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Seeds should be sown at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. When planting, space plants 5-10 cm, seed trays don't have to be in a greenhouse, any sheltered spot will do to guard against rapid changes of temperature, especially at night. Downy mildew, neck rot and white rot are the most common diseases that attack onions. To avoid these, plant disease-resistant varieties and keep the garden clean of diseased debris. If your veg garden is further inland start adding some compost and a little lime now in readiness for when you plant out later this month. Fruit: I have finished pruning my wine grapes - this year I have had to remove some old leaders, replacing them with new growth leaders along wires. The result of this will be vertical budding and fruiting next year. To prune a fruiting leader remove all new long growth on the vine other than the fruiting leader, on the leaders prune each new growth back to the second bud. These fruiting buds should be around a hand space apart to ensure adequate sized fruit, this means removing some of the new bud growth along the top of the leader and all of the new bud growth growing underneath. Some of these new budding top growths will throw two lots of bud branch, remove the least stronger one leaving only one lot of double buds to produce fruit. This applies to domestic grown grapes as well. Citrus trees may need to be covered against late winter frosts in sheltered areas. New season’s fruit trees particularly pip and stone fruit can be planted out now. August can be a tricky time of the year for your lawn. This is because we don’t really know exactly what weather we are going to get. Fertiliser to keep your lawn thick and healthy You may find the growth rate of grass increase so it is important to keep on top of your mowing If we have a mild August you may consider a broad leaf weed spray to take out any undesirable species that may have come into your lawn during winter. I see a few bees at work already which is a good sign for the soon to be happening fruit blossom pollination. Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in North Otago 6th August 2013

Some soft rain and dull damp days start this week but still much is beginning to awake in the garden, I feel spring in the air with swelling of buds, fragrance from winter sweet, witch hazel, Daphne, boronia, and violets wafting to the music I am lucky enough to have playing around our garden. The birds are beginning to nest and I see the first blossom, jonquils, and daffodils gracing fence lines in our garden and about the town. We are coming to the end of pruning with cold, rose-prickled fingers, humping straw bales and barrows of gravel, muddy clothes, and gumboots. It is now time for me to create and dress the garden by planting out, shifting, and feeding. I have been liquid feeding with worm tea from my worm farm, adding at the strength of black tea to a full watering can, then applying generously to all new leaf, budding and flowering plants like polyanthus, forget-me-nots, dianthus, sweet peas, pansy, viola. Any new plantings can be Helped along by feeding now to get their roots going and keep them green and strong through any cold snaps yet to come. Slow-release fertiliser is a great idea now as well, sprinkle around established ornamental and newly planted trees and shrubs to be there ready when the plants need food as they awaken. This week I noticed nice fat buds swelling on the stems of my hydrangeas, I started pruning the more sheltered bushes a couple of weeks back but still left the more exposed a little longer. Prune only those stems that have flowered, cut at the second bud from the bottom, and leave all other stems because these are the flowers for this year. Spread old stable manure around the drip line and a dressing of lime for pink flowers and aluminum sulphate for blue, White never changes, but is best planted in light shade – the flowers will tinge pink in the full sun. It is much easier to control the colour of hydrangeas in a pot, if the PH of your soil is high blue hydrangeas will always revert to pink no matter how often you add aluminum to the soil. If your PH is too high and you want to grow blue hydrangeas in large pots, it would be best to use an acid tree and shrub mix. Using coffee grinds, grass clippings or pine needles spread around the drip line can help lower the PH of pink hydrangeas in the garden and encourage shade into shades of purple. I have found I can pull rooted branches from the base of big old gnarly hydrangea bushes, these take a few years to bush up but it is a sure way to replicate a special variety that has become too large and old for the spot it is planted in. cuttings taken from the hardened geranium stems can be taken now, fresh grown geraniums give amazing colour to a warm sunny garden for all of the growing season and even into the winter, they are so easy to grow from cuttings. Take shortcuttings, semi-hardwood, (not a new green steam), and let them dry out a little before planting, this means you don't have to deal with them straight away. Plant them firmly into a soil and river sand mix, Potting mix is too light to get a tight seal around the cutting. I am forever taking cuttings from geraniums. I like it when I come across them in friends' gardens and give cuttings from mine. Trim dentata lavender now if you haven't already, and it is looking untidy. Dentata is a tall growing one with pale lavender bumblebee flowers and serrated leaves.They will recover quickly from a cutback because they are budding up now, but Leave trimming other lavenders until it is warmer. Lavenders like sweetening up with a dressing of lime now. Time to cut back leggy, straggly bush lavatera now also, they get very woody if left. Keep planting dahlias and gladioli, from now until September. With roses making a move to budding up they will need food to draw on, powdered rose food needs watered in around the drip line, slow slow-release fertiliser will work each time it rains. Trees and Roses are still available in Garden Centres. If you think your garden is too small for trees, I have seen dwarf Peach and Nectarine Trees on offer, what better if you need a little tree to add height in a part of your garden why not have one that blossoms beautifully and then gives you fruit?They are perfect for the smaller garden as they only grow to a width and height of 1.5 meters. They can also be grown in a tub and require very little pruning. There are masses of bedding plants on offer now and the ground temperature is warming up now to get them growing. Vegetables The vegetable garden has been enjoying the rain, it is so good not to have to worry about the bugs during these colder months when planting out leaf veg. Cold and frosty areas inland can make a start now by adding some compost and a little lime in readiness for when you plant out later this month. Let's hope the dull overcast days are over by the time the fruit trees blossom so the bees will come out and set to work pollinating. Keep an eye on peach and nectarine trees, if they are just at bud burst it will be time to spray a copper fungicide to prevent leaf curl. When they are in flower it is too late to spray. The Waireka Valley Lions Club are having trouble locating wool sheds to bag sheep manure for their stalls, I for one would be disappointed if I was unable to fill the boot of my car when needed. If there are Farms in the district that can help keep up the supply please ring Alistair Mavor ph: 03 4371976Cheers, Chers, Linda