This week has been a bit of a downer for me, I thought I had made it through winter without succumbing to that dreaded flu virus, BUT then it got me and did it's worst.
Back on deck now and doing the final winter clean up, pruning and planting out. It is at this time of the year I notice yellowing of some plants, the ground gets depleted of nitrogen during winter especially when plants are shallow rooted like camellia and rhododendrons, and potted plants with roots out grown containers. With applications of complete plant food and compost this condition will be rectified. Plant specific slow release fertilisers on offer make it easy to choose the right one and each time it rains or you water the garden food is released to plants.
If you have not trimmed back ornamental grass's yet do it now, cut the old seeded ends well back and clean out the dead thatch around the base, its amazing how much you will need to cart away after this hair cut but they will grow back to their soft wafting shape in no time. Use what you have cut off as mulch around the garden, a cover for the compost or in the chook or calf pen.
I imagine the weeds have started at your place as they have at mine! mostly chickweed. With the ground being so soft hand, and hoe weeding is really easy, get them out before they take off and seed everywhere, or dig them in before they seed.
Lawns:
Moss in lawns, pathways and garden structures love the dampness it is not as bad as usual here this year with the winter being dry but with the now damp ground warming, moss spors will be on the go. There are a lot of products out there to deal with moss but killing the moss in lawns is simply a short term measure they do nothing by way of treating the basic problem. If you really want to eradicate moss from lawns you have to find the actual problem causing it. The reasons are varied, but not too difficult to isolate.
poor drainage, usually clay pan under soil (gypsum can help break the caly up)
poor feeding regime -( usually shown up by light green grass),
soil too acid - (carry out a test, lime may be needed).
Shaded Lawns - overhanging trees or large shrubs.
Mowing lawns too close is a very common cause, for it weakens the grass allowing moss to take hold
Drought - if severe enough to harm or kill the grass.
Compaction - continued use by children and pets with no remedial attention by way of aeration in the Autumn.
A lawn well fed, cut properly, aerated and de-thatched (if there is a thatch build up) should not be troubled by moss because moss rarely competes with strong growing grass.
Get the grass growing properly starting with the first spring feeding and rake in humus (compost or sieved soil) to add more body, this will encourage worms as well. Slow release grass fertliser is ideal when the ground is wet and rain is about. Treating small areas of lawn moss can be carried out with sulphate of iron watered on at the strength displayed on the pack per sq meter, moss will turn black and after a couple of weeks you can rake out the dead moss and re-seed.
Vegetables: Pick winter crops while still at their best - Asparagus is a vegetable that repays planting over many years. To prepare beds cultivate deeply and add generous amounts of compost. Existing asparagus beds should be cultivated carefully to avoid damaging the crowns that lie just below the surface, add a new layer of mulch.
Here on the coast get spring sowings off to an early start now, use a row of cloches if you have them. Inland where the soil will take a bit of thawing out before any planting, stretch out a length of clear polythene to warm and dry out the soil first.
Fruit:
I am pleased to hear the bee's out in force again around blossom trees on sunny days. Remember they are about if the sprayer comes out.
Cheers, Linda
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