Gardening in North Otago March 15th 2016

Hurrah, the heavens opened and it rained last Tuesday and I could, I am sure hear every growing thing sighing in relief.

Autumn will probably have taken a couple of steps back after being revitalised, the silver birch tree's and bougainvillea are always the first to drop a carpet here but it is not happening yet as it was at this time last year, going by my last years notes.

This garden is tired now after that last big wind attack, so the cutting back has been stepped up in readiness for a layer of compost, then pea straw to keep that lovely rain moisture in the ground. 
I have needed to be away from the garden a lot over the last few weeks which is detrimental to the watering at this time of the year, so many potted up plants have suffered and out grown pots. I got a bit desperate for potting mix while re potting so dug into one of my compost heaps and was pleased to find everything decomposing really well, due I am sure to the heat we have been experiencing so was able to add it to what remained of the bought potting mix making it go further. Giving potted plants more room for roots and some sun protection at this time of the year enables them to thrive longer without constant watering. 
I am still dead heading roses in the hope of more blooms to make a last vibrant show before they will be left to harden off for winter. Rust is always a problem on roses in Autumn, try to eradicate affected leaves from the bushes as well as those on the ground and burn them to reduce this problem for next year. Don't feed roses now, soft growth needs to make a start at hardening off. 

Here on the coast we can still enjoy colour during winter if bedding  plants are prepared now. I have been potting up seedlings grown from last years seed and some young bedding bought in punnets. The idea is to utilize the warmth from now on to encourage individually potted plants to bush, bud and harden for planting out before frosts get heavy. Bedding plants that respond well to this method are pansy, viola, pollyanthus wall flower, stock, calendula and  primulamalacoides. It is so worth taking the time to pot individual young seedlings on to grow and become acclimatised to early winter conditions rather than buying plants that have been forced into flower at the time.

March is defiantly a great planting month with the soil warm and the nights and mornings cooler, newly planted trees and shrubs settle in well. There are a lot of well grown trees, shrubs and plants on offer right now in Garden centers ready and waiting to be planted. Gardner's further inland will need to read the labels to establish frost ratings before buying, if in doubt wait until spring. 

Spring bulbs can be planted now. If you have not already done so break up really large clumps of Spring bulbs, clumps tend to double in size with out you noticing and in no time a garden bed can become choked, looking attractive only in spring and dull for the rest of the year. I have often been asked the reason for spring bulbs not flowering after the first couple of years from planting, the problem can be over crowding, lack of adequate light as trees become larger and throw more shade during summer, but the most common problem is bulbs may not have not been planted deep enough. Spring bulbs need to be planted 4 to 6 inches deep, that's 4 to 6 inches on top of the bulb, if not planted deeply eventually when they do come into leaf and experience a dry patch during this time they wont take up enough moisture to come into bud.

Rake mulch off bearded iris rhizomes they need to be exposed to the sun for a baking now.

Layer carnation stems by pinning the center of the stem down under the soil while still attached to the mother plant with the flower end still exposed, roots should form along the buried stem. Once rooted cut from the mother plant and pot up to grow on before planting out in lime sweetened soil. This layering method can be applied to many herbs, plants and shrubs.

Lawns. 

After those baking hot days and a lot of mowing lawn growth starts slowing down from now on although, catchers will still be filling up for a while yet but don't feel you need to cut lower than usual because growth has slowed, a scalped lawn dries out faster and encourages weeds. Still the best time to sow new lawns while weed growth is slowing down and evening dews are back. The flat weeds I do come across now I pop out with the blade of secateurs before they seed and spread.  

Fruit: The apricot season went on for ages here in our garden now the late peaches and quince are next to be picked. Granny Smith apples were blown off the tree so I am peeling them daily to stew and freeze because after falling they all have a bruise. Even after giving heaps away I now have many pottels of apricot and apple not to mention the peaches and quince soon......might have to make puddings for our Grandchildren to experience some of the old fashioned winter puds from the past. Apple dumplings?? the first thing I made in Intermediate School cooking class and never forgotten.

Vegetable  Gardens will be growing new crops for the cooler seasons, leaf veg should not bolt so readily now and will not mind the days getting shorter and cooling and root veg seeds will germinate well while the ground is still warm. My second sowing of peas are up, corn is picked and the pumpkins have out grown their space and just keep going. Onions can be lifted once leaves have bent over, don't bend or damage leaves before they are ready to bend naturally if you want them to store and keep well.  Once dug lay them out in a warm place to fully ripen then store in a cool place.

Cheers Linda