Monday, July 4, 2016
Gardening in North Otago 5th July 2016
Well into July now and still the odd mild day, as long as the sun shines I am happy, dull, overcast days closing in on us around 4.30pm do not inspire gardeners to work outside, the perfect garden planning time to be a step ahead before spring planting.
A big job here in our garden this week eradicating years of ivy growth, it had really taken hold and was heading in under roofing in places. Now it will be woody weed killer on cuts to finish it off.
Rose pruning:Still no rose pruning taking place in our garden with wood being still too soft.The time by which rose pruning should be completed varies by several weeks from the warmest to coldest gardens, pruning should be done and dusted by the time buds break.
Bush roses:concentrate on clearing the center of the bush, remove all inward facing branches at an outward facing bud, prune height back by two thirds always at an outward facing bud and remove any old and damaged branches. Brush old gnarly rose centers with a wire brush to stimulate and encourage new budding.
Floribunda bush roses:like iceberg with a number of blooms on one stem need a few older branches taken right back each year to encourage new strong branching and newer branches taken back by two thirds.
Hybrid tea roses:These are the roses that can grow a single exhibition bloom on a stem, these rose bushes can be pruned back quite hard to an outward facing bud.
Standard bush roses:Same as bush roses.
Climbing roses:These roses flower at their best when the branches are trained horizontally along a fence or wall, these branches will develop small branches along the length to carry the flowers. After a number of years a main horizontal branch will become unproductive and need to be removed, replaced with a new branch to be trained gently out to take it's place. The new branch will bud up quickly sending out small outward growing branches to harden off in a couple of years. To prune established horizontal branches, take the outward growing branches back to the second out facing bud closest to the main horizontal branch.
Pillar roses:These are the best type to climb up and be trained over an arch or pergola. I cut the old growth back from these with a hedge trimmer
Fairy rose and flower carpet roses:These, I also cut back with a hedge trimmer but open them up by removing branches from the middle with secateurs.
The bulk of new seasons bare rooted deciduous trees are arriving into retail shops now, continue planting while the soil is soft and moist, but avoid times when the ground is frozen or excessively wet.
Young deciduous trees and shrubs can be moved at this time, trim damaged roots and cut back any that are inconveniently long.
Evergreen trees and shrubs are on offer as well, choose now but don't be in a hurry to plant them at this coldest time of the year because you will not gain any new growth until spring. Keep in their bags or pots outside in a sheltered place to harden off, they can sit like this through winter. Make sure to read the labels and know how high and wide a shrub / tree will grow, some grow fast and when mature will throw considerable shade. When planting along side the house ask advice.
Compost heaps;are working slowly now compared to summer and autumn but the worms will still be working as long as there is adequate moisture. Heaps can be kept warmer by being covered with straw, which lets the rain in.
Boost bedding plants blood.to encourage buds during sunny winter days.
Veg: This mild winter weather has been kind to producing vegetable gardens, once I have used all the carrots, parsnip and silver beet I will dig the raised gardens over and work in some manure enriched compost in readiness for spring planting.
In cold areas if ground is frozen start garlic off in containers and plant out later when the ground warms up If your strawberry patch is manured and ready plant new strawberry runner plants now while the ground is soft and moist.
Fruit:Finish planting deciduous fruit trees and bushes in a sunny site, avoid frosty hollows for early starters such as plums and pears. Frosty si
The best time of the year to prune fruit trees.Early to Late Spring Peach and nectarine trees, this will allow the wounds to close faster as growth begins, early spring also allows you to see how many flower buds have survived the cold weather. Peach and nectarine should be pruned yearly to maintain an open center, remove 50% of last years growth.
Early Spring for Plums as well, they should also be pruned to maintain an open center and don't let your plum tree branch too close to the ground. The best fruit often grows at the top so keep the tops down making fruit easily accessible. Fig, Plum and Apricot remove about 20% of last years growth. Cherries only summer prune the first 5 years.
As I wrote last week, it's a winter prune;for Apples and pears, you will want to cut away any overly vigorous stems which are unusually high, remove about 20% of last years growth.
Cheers, Linda
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