Days are really drawing in as we head towards winter but driving to and from Wanaka last weekend Autumn was still breath taking coming through the Waitaki valley and central country side.
I have dug out a mass planting of bedding blue salvia replacing it with dozens of red tulip bulbs I store each year. The saliva had taken a lot out of the soil so beds were dug and topped with compost and sifted soil along with a sprinkle of blood and bone before the tulips went in. Blue forgetmenot is coming on to plant along side the tulips for a spring display. Pansy's, pollyanthus, primula and snapdragons are filling out nicely for planting along side the spring bulbs that are all popping up. h
Wisterias will need a cut back now, ours is growing along the upstairs balcony threatening to push through the sliding doors and take over the bedroom! I use the hedge trimmer to get rid of all the leafy wispy growth, cutting too hard back into thick wood will remove new buds. Each long winding growth can eventually grow into a thick branch so if training a young plant let only one length go either way along a structure. I needed to be given that advice when planting the now multi branched extremely heavy wisteria we now have!
Seeds:I am still collecting seeds while pods are dry and saving them in paper bags and envelopes, I read that adding a sprinkle of rice will absorb any remaining moisture and help to keep seed dry and in good condition, worth a try.
Compost again, Balance all those leaves with layers of old compost/soil, straw, manure and grass clippings . Moisture is a must as well, if mix is dry add water during the heat of a day so the chill will be off before nights cooling. Decomposing will continue on until temperatures drops dramatically.
Fruit:
Tamarillos These delicious, tangy fruits ripen in autumn and winter and can go from pale green to rich ripe red in about a week. They are ripe when either a deep, dark red or golden orange/yellow depending on variety. Pick fruit individually by cutting stems. Once picked they keep well and will become sweeter after a week or so.
Citrus bushes would benefit from a rich layer of compost, well-rotted manure, dolomite, seaweed, straw – whatever you have spread as a mulching layer around roots.
Vegetables:
Save seed from beans and peas and also a few of your herb and companion flower plant seeds for next spring.
Mold soil around the base of leeks to keep them pale and sweet, but keep it beneath the bottom leaf so it doesn't get inside and make cleaning them difficult.
An application of lime now is a real benefit to many of the leaf crops – cabbage, spinach, kale, broccoli and silverbeet.
Potatoes need to be dug and stored now, if they still have more growing to do keep the water off them, they last better if tops have yellowed and died down.
Once dug let dirt dry on them, brush off and store in a cool dry place away from any other veg or fruit, any moisture will encourage sprouts. Non sprouting powder can be purchased but I use the layering of dried herbs method, cut Rosemary, thyme, sage, lemon balm, mint any of the herbs before they die back, let the moisture dry out of them then layer among stored clean dry potatoes, (a herb filled muslin bag works to) When all potatoes have been used crush the mixed herbs and store in a glass jar for use. If you have essential oils peppermint, spearmint, and clove oil are said to keep sprouting and rot at a minimum.
Curing Pumpkins: Bring Pumpkins in for curing and storing before hard frosts, pumpkins are ready when the stem is dry and hard to the touch, cut from the runner leaving 10 cm stem attached to the pumpkin and cure by sitting in a warm spot, raised allowing air to circulate around the whole pumpkin for about two weeks then turn upside down and leave for another two weeks, this will harden up skin and intensify the flavor.
Storing pumpkins: Rub all over with olive oil to seal in moisture, store in a dry sheltered place, off the ground is best on layers of newspaper.
Thinking spring planting already? in very cold areas place an insulating layer on soil you plan to plant out in early spring. This will prevent soil from becoming water-logged, use polythene, fertilizers bags, old carpet or underlay. Spring planting can be delayed for ages because of wet cold ground.
Cheers, Linda.
Once dug let dirt dry on them, brush off and store in a cool dry place away from any other veg or fruit, any moisture will encourage sprouts. Non sprouting powder can be purchased but I use the layering of dried herbs method, cut Rosemary, thyme, sage, lemon balm, mint any of the herbs before they die back, let the moisture dry out of them then layer among stored clean dry potatoes, (a herb filled muslin bag works to) When all potatoes have been used crush the mixed herbs and store in a glass jar for use. If you have essential oils peppermint, spearmint, and clove oil are said to keep sprouting and rot at a minimum.
Curing Pumpkins: Bring Pumpkins in for curing and storing before hard frosts, pumpkins are ready when the stem is dry and hard to the touch, cut from the runner leaving 10 cm stem attached to the pumpkin and cure by sitting in a warm spot, raised allowing air to circulate around the whole pumpkin for about two weeks then turn upside down and leave for another two weeks, this will harden up skin and intensify the flavor.
Storing pumpkins: Rub all over with olive oil to seal in moisture, store in a dry sheltered place, off the ground is best on layers of newspaper.
Thinking spring planting already? in very cold areas place an insulating layer on soil you plan to plant out in early spring. This will prevent soil from becoming water-logged, use polythene, fertilizers bags, old carpet or underlay. Spring planting can be delayed for ages because of wet cold ground.
Cheers, Linda.
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