Gardening in North Otago 9th January 2018

Gardening in North Otago 9th January 2018

Happy New Gardening year to all, I trust all produce from last years efforts is still  being enjoyed during  this holiday period and at last a real summer with some long sunny spells for the campers.

Roses,  All roses should have had a summer pruning after their first flowering, cut a spent flower stem down to an out facing bud on a thick part of stem. If it is just the flower removed the remaining stem will die back to only the first bud, that part of the stem will be too weak to support new blooms.  last year dull days and mildew were a problem for roses but this year it is rust that attacked a few of mine after the first flowering. I pull all the affected leaves off and destroy them as I dead headed, this left bushes quite bare but it takes no time at all for new leaves and buds to grow back after a feed and consistent watering to keep the rust at bay. Deep watering around the roots is the thing for roses during these hot months. 

 Cut back summer flowering perennials and shrubs to encourage continuous flowering, I have just cut back my daisy bushes, delphiniums, lavaterias, dianthus, lupinsand most of the herbs because they were all going to seed. Feed with slow release or a liquid fertiliser and they will all come back fresh and most will flower again. I have cut some chrysanthemums back for the second time, they flower in  autumn on shorter steams by doing this. Plant some tip growth from chrysanthemums into river sand and they should root well to become next years gap fillers. Put stakes in now to support all Chrysanthemums. Foliar feeding is very important to encourage fresh new growth after cutting back anything at this dry time of the year. Fill gaps in the flower garden with annuals. Front planting full sun: impatiens, small type petunias, begonia, small marigolds, lobelia, alyssum Mid plantings: nicotina, coriopsis, tall petunias, tall marigolds, bedding dahlia, salvia, nemesia. Tall plantings: cosmos, lavatera, sun flowers, Canterbury bells, love in the mist. Semi shade ( with good light) plantings: impatiens, bedding begonias, lobelia and foxgloves.

 I am still lifting lower new branches on the large spreading trees to let more light in for plants growing under them. Oaks, flowering cherries, ash, Alms and maples put on a lot of new growth each year and most want to grow to the ground to shade their roots if left. Remove cross over branches and any branches you feel are not required, dappled light is much nicer than dense shade. 

My ponds get topped up regularly at this time of the year, due to evaporation, shallow ponds tend to green up a bit as the water warms. I added half a bale of straw to one end of the large pond, weighed down with a rock to keep slime from growing, with the topping up and the straw doing it's job the water stays clear for the fish and the lillies. 

Lawns: When the next heavy rain arrives feed lawns and they will bounce back then spot spray weeds as new weed seeds will have germinated. 

Fruit and veg:  My gooseberries, strawberries, raspberry's and currents ripened fast during the busy Christmas rush so the birds nabbed a lot and little fingers helped me with mumbles of " This is boring Nana", but making the black current pies, fruit trifle and gooseberry sponge puddings  was a different story ...too many cooks in the kitchen!  Prune back all older black current branches that fruited now then give a good clean out of old wood during winter. Pruning summer fruiting raspberries: Fruit is produced on one year old canes. In Autumn cut all brown canes that bore fruit down to soil level, new seasons canes are green. Leave 6-8 strong new canes and remove the rest. Space new canes 10cm (4in) apart to allow light and air. Gooseberry new growth can be tip pruned then left for a winter pruning and shaping pruning

Renovate strawberry patches for higher yields next year: Stimulate next years growth by removing old leaves with hedge clippers after fruiting with out damaging crowns, most plants remain highly productive for only 3 or 4 fruiting years, thin out old weak plants, leave 5 - 6 of the vigorous per square foot of row.  After plants first growing season there are two critical times when good soil moisture is important, from bloom through to harvest and from late December through to the end of Autumn. 

Tomatoes need water kept up and some leaves removed to let more light in, too many leaves take up nitrogen that should be used by the fruit. Corn and pumpkins are making good growth and the potatoes I thought were all top and no potatoes proved me wrong by being just the opposite. Keep planting all veg , we have the best growing and ripening time ahead.

Cheers, Linda