Gardening in North Otago NZ May 16th 2018

I am feeling a chill in the air and frosts have started but enough warmth still in the ground for plants to continue growing.
A heap of work was done here in the garden this week, compost is going down fast as it is shoveled on thickly over beds now ready for a layer of pea straw.
I have been potting up well grown seedlings before the nights get colder, because they are straight from seed trays the frost cloth has gone on and will remain on until spring.

Leaves are still falling so piles are still accumulating in our garden, a good many piles have been put on compost heaps, the remainder I burn in a drum and add the ash to compost, but from now on I will be making leaf mulch which is an easy process and gardens really benefit from the nitrogen fix when it is spread in spring.

1.

First pile the leaves and keep them dry then shed them with a lawn mower, (whole leaves don't break down enough for mulch). 

2.

Once shredded add layers 12 to 18 inches deep along with a handful of urea or grass clippings (nitrogen) to each layer, wet each layer (don't saturate) as you build.)

3.Repeat this layering until your bin or bag is full and all will break down over winter to be ready for you to put on the garden in spring. 

This is a great time to make new perennial beds or re-organise existing beds, with perennial clumps increasing in size annually they soon over fill a space. Lift overgrown clumps, break up and replant some of the youngest growths from the perimeter. Healthy vigorous plants can be reduced by putting a sharp spade in where you would like a reduction then lift the cut portion out without disturbing the plant remaining. I have been doing this with asters, phlox, aurbretia, small grass's, hosta's, and herbs like sage, thyme and lemon balm. Rockery plants can be divided now as well. Once plants have been sectioned and rearranged cover the bed and around plants with compost which will encourage new root growth and help to keep perennial beds warmer through the colder months. I have also been potting up well grown seedlings before the nights get colder, because they are straight from seed trays the frost cloth has gone on and will remain on until spring. 

All old leaves from my hellebores have now been removed, they are budding up for a winter display so a fortnightly liquid feed can be given if you feel they need boosting. Further in land it would be advisable to leave some top growth on to give frost protection to soft new growth, once hardened remove all leaves to display flowers.
remove water trays from pots now, the soil will stay damp from now on and should never be waterlogged through winter as this will lead to plant roots freezing and rotting. 
Lilies, this is the main time to shift or divide old over grown clumps of lilies. Be careful not to break the fleshy scales and to retain all the basal roots. Don't pull the old steams away from the bulb as it leaves a hole where water can enter and cause rot, just cut old stems short and bend. Never allow Lilly bulbs to dry out while out of the ground, I plant lilies on a little river sand and cover with compost which has had blood and bone added.

Vegetables and fruit .
Continue planting strawberry plants, raising the beds where drainage is suspect and adding manure rich compost to the beds.
It is said to plant garlic on the shortest day but any time from late May until August is ok. Select large single cloves (plant point up) 5cm deep and 20cm apart in warm, well-drained sites where soil has been recently limed.
Start pruning pip fruit trees any time after the leaves have fallen, remove dead or damaged wood, crossing or inward turning branches, excess leaders or sucker growth developing on the main trunks. Shorten back vigorous leaders by about a 1/3 to promote branching. Prune long side branches, take out weak twigs to discourage further spread.

Cheers, Linda