Gardening in North Otago December 9th 2019

Wind, heat then rain but once again North Otago  escaped the weather damage inflicted on  neighbouring districts.

So much in the garden has finished flowering now and needing a cut back, if early summer flowering plants have grown leggy and collapsed cut back the perennials and pull out annuals even if they are still producing flowers. Fallen plants will eventually rot along stems and rot what they have fallen on top of. Clear the ground where they have been, add compost and plant annuals that will continue flowering through until autumn. Cosmas, nicotiana,saliva, verbena are tall growing. Petunia, gaillardia, coreopsis, bedding dahlia and bergamont (bee balm) are all mid plantings. Alyssum, lobelia, coreopsis and begonias are front planting gap fillers.

Tree peony doubles in size each growing season. Don't let them swamp your garden and shade other plants, the older woody canes can be cut right down leaving the new green stalks to be next years flower branches. By doing this now seed pods will be cut off, if allowed to ripen will pop all over your garden and grow. Other plants I have had to cut back are bush lavatera's, English abutilon, ornamental broom, false Valerian and cat mint, all will grow back quickly and some bud up for another flowering.  

Monarch butterflies are being encouraged into many gardens as gardeners plant swan plants for caterpillars to feed on. To keep the butterflies in your garden plants they feed on should be growing. Buddleias are tall shrubs that flower on new growth, cut back after each flowering to produce new flowers through summer, all verbenas ( tall and low growing), echinacea, daylilies, hydrangea, zinnias, cosmos, Californian poppy, foxglove, Viper's Bugloss and coriopsis will keep monarch butterflies happy but for them to lay eggs there is no alternative plant in NZ for Monarch caterpillars than the swan plant. Swan plants succumb to frost during winter if not protected, I cover mine with a double layer of frost cloth.

Lawns dried out during the strong nor west winds, thankfully we received a heavy shower or two but not enough to repair the damage. Don't cut grass too low  and boost with lawn fertiliser during the next rain.

Veg  will be bolting during this early intense heat we are experiencing,  root veg and potatoes need deep moisture to draw on and leaf veg plants grow faster in moderate weather conditions. A rise in temperature increases the plant's growth rate but to an extent and if temperature goes on increasing growth rate starts falling and loss of moisture increases which will result into the death of plants. Rise in temperature also has bad affects on seed germination.

As tomatoes grow be sure to remove laterals from the taller growing variety and stake to keep them upright as the fruit gets heaver. They should be flowering now waiting for the bee's to pollinate, if they are in a glass house and you do not see many bee's you can spray with a product call tomset.

Rather than using spray on eatables  why not try companion planting, some plants have been proven to help and enhance others I have listed what has been proven to work.

Carrots and onions together, the onions help keep the carrot fly at bay and carrots the onion fly.
Celery and the brassica family, i.e.: cabbage, caulis, and broccoli. the celery will confuse the white butterfly when wanting to land and lay it's larvae eggs.
Marigolds and beans/brassicas, the marigold emits a natural gas which protects surrounding plants from insects like aphids and white fly.
Make your own natural sprays: The following plant leaves can be boiled in water and the resulting liquid used on plants.
Basil will eliminate aphids, Chives prevent mildew occurring on cucumbers, squash and pumpkins, Coriander also for aphids and spider mite. Eucalyptus is a good general purpose insecticide.
Rhubarb has been found to help prevent blackspot. These may be only plants but in liquid form they can be harmful to children so keep marked bottles high up.

Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in North Otago December 3rd 2019

Climbing rose Albertine

Wow the last month of the year already, if you are playing catch up before the Christmas break you can be assured gardens just keep on doing what they are supposed to regardless of weather conditions or people intervention judging by the endless cutting back! It is disposing of everything that creates a problem for most , however at this time of the year the cut back growth is soft and with the help of daily heat will break down in heaps or on the compost so pile it up and leave until all moisture has gone  and this will drastically reduce the green wast. Gaps left can be built up with fresh compost and planted out in summer annuals.  

Catmint edging can be cut right back now, it will grow back and flower again, if left clumps will make seed and collapse and flatten.

English lavender  will need cutting back now and is worth, bunching and hanging once stems have firmed. Dried lavender will continue to give off that lovely fresh lavender fragrance right through until it flowers again next summer if kept inside. 

Rhododendrons finished flowering need spent flowers removed before they make seed, imposable to do on very large bushes but beneficial to smaller bushes as you want them to put growth into the bush not seeds. There is a point on a spent rhododendron flower when bent will break cleanly without damaging new growth. 

Roses: Keep moisture up to roses and dead head to encourage new buds, remove and destroy leaves showing rust or black spot.

Lillies also need moisture to be kept up as the winds we are now experiencing continue to dry out soil, continuous. Lillies prefer  roots moist but like most bulbs will rot if water logged.

Hedge trimming is on going here, trim hedges if you feel they have put out all the spring growth they are going to, ivy that has romped away can be trimmed right back now before it sets flowers. My buxus (box hedges) are still a little soft to trim, as soon as stalks snap cleanly when bent I will get the hedge trimmer to them.

Herbs  are beginning to flower so if cut and bunched now you will prevent them from running to seed and going woody. Herbs should be harvested when flavor and aroma oils are at their peak, before they flower. Harvest early in the morning after the dew dries and before the heat of the day. Herb flowers harvested to dry for craft should be picked just before flowers are fully open. Culinary herbs to dry: rosemary, thyme, sage, dill, basil, chives, parsley, oregano, tarragon, nasturtium (leaves and flowers)

Fruit: black currents, raspberries and gooseberries are all wanting continuous sunny days , large top leaves on strawberries can be removed to let more air and light in but they need to have a net cover if exposed to birds.

Elder flowers are blooming now so elder flower cordial is on the go again here, so refreshing after a hot day in the garden, Gin, tonic, ice and a splash of elder flower cordial.

Elder flower cordial, 25 elder flower heads, zest and juice of 2 lemons and 1 orange, 1.5 litres boiling water 1kg sugar 1 heaped teaspoon citric acid. Method: Wash flower heads to remove any bugs, place in large bowl with orange / lemon zest. Bring water to boil, pour over flower heads and zest, cover, leave overnight. Strain, pour into a saucepan and add sugar, lemon /orange juice and citric acid. Heat gently to dissolve sugar then simmer for a couple of minutes, bottle (sterilized) and seal. 

Vegetable garden: Weeds as well as veg are romping away but easy to pull while young,. Keep potatoes mounded, not long now to harvest for Christmas dinner. Corn will be struggling with winds, add compost over roots and support with stakes and garden twine if needed, I find they get support from each other if planted in squares rather than a row. Pumpkins, zucchinis and the like will not be coping with the drying winds the large leaves dehydrate quickly, wind break protection would be beneficial at very windy times.

Cheers, Linda.

Elderflower cordial

Gardening in North Otago December 1st 2019

Pillar rose Phyllis Bide

December approaches and now counting down to the end of another year.

It's dead heading roses time again,  rose petals are lovely laid out to dry for potpourri, the fragrance  as they dry is wonderful but always pick them perfectly dry to get good results. It is 6 weeks from cutting off a past bloom at an out facing bud low down on the strong part of a branch  to new rose forming bud at this time of the year.

I have found old hellebore leaves that had not been removed absolutely loaded in green fly!! I will cut every last one out and dispose of so green fly do not fly off onto my waiting roses. It is so important right now to keep the water up to roses, constant feeding and deep soaking at the roots will keep them healthy and not in need of spraying. A rose that is struggling will be susceptible to everything bad.
Night beetles will be on the wing again, newly planted young trees are the worst targeted as they can strip leaves right off. If this happens don't be alarmed because another lot of leaves will soon grow. The way I dealt to them when our trees were young was to wait until just on dusk when they were thick on the trees tucking in, I then sprayed them with a kill on contact spray, this way you get rid of heaps of beetles and keep the future grass grub numbers down. Night beetles usually sleep through the day under a tree they are feeding on.
Summer weeds, get rid of weeds like biddy bid, while seeds are still green, where ever you see it pull it out, don't let seeds ripen and drop.  Convolvulus is a battle here for me  popping up through plants everywhere, next winter I will again make an effort to get to the roots while the garden is resting. Some gardeners have had success with soaking long convolvulus runners in weed spray solution which should kill well down through that net work of roots. Fat-hen and chick weed are more weeds that spread quickly by seed drop so get them gone before seed ripens.
Flag iris that have flowered can be broken up and transplanted in a sunny spot. Prepare the bed by digging in fresh compost and some lime then plant, leaving half the rhizome (root) exposed to bake in the sun over summer. Long leaves can be cut half way back to reduce transpiration while reestablishing.　
While you can still see where spring bulbs have been cover them with mulch to stop them drying out over summer, Compost is fine then you can plant annuals on top to fill gaps. If large clumps of bulbs flowered poorly during spring this is a good time to break them up and plant out into smaller groups using compost to give them a good start.
Montana clematis will have have finished flowering but wait a little longer before trimming back because they have not finished their new growth spurt, if you trim now you will have to do it all over again in a couple of weeks. However wisterias can be dealt to now, if you wisteria has nice strong flowering hard wood branches that flower well then no more will be required, remove all the new long trailers. A wisteria is like a climbing tree and will take over and out grow it's place in no time and become very heavy if you let too many leaders grow.

Lawns:  Keep the mower blades up a little higher and mow in the cooler part of the day to help with recovery from heat exposure, mow without the catcher sometimes and give deep watering's rather than a light sprinkle. New lawns will need feeding and water kept up to help them to strengthen enough to cope with summer heat. If spraying lawn weeds add liquid fertiliser and feed the grass at the same time, don't use sprayed grass clippings around the garden or in compost, spray containers have printed information on how long the with holding time is.
 Herbs: Culinary herbs are the original cut-and-come-again crop, if you grow them get picking because plants really will benefit from it, and you'll have wonderful flavours to add to dishes. Most herbs and leafy plants naturally want to create seeds but once they get to that stage it means the end of a herb like parsley, chives or basil. So pick leaves early and often to encourage the plant to put out more foliage and prevent it from running to seed. It may be cheating Nature but it extends the life of your plants and gives you handfuls of herbs to enjoy.  Picking, bunching, drying and rubbing to store in glass jars will keep you in dried mixed herbs all winter. 

Vegetables: Don't feed leaf veg now as they will put out too much soft growth and bolt, all that is needed is moisture when dry. I am experimenting with some  plant concoctions to keep the white butterfly and aphids away. 

Organic bug spray

1/2 cup hot peppers, diced 

6 cloves garlic, peeled

2 cups water

Blast in a food processor,

strain, add 2 teaspoons liquid soap (without bleach) 

Fill a plastic spray bottle and mist spray affected plants.

Cheers, Linda.

Drying herbs

Gardening in North Otago 20th November 2019

Still so much change in the weather but never as dramatic here in North Otago as elsewhere and those showers are fantastic for gardens and crops.

I am like all Gardeners weeding, weeding,!! and cutting back heaps of stuff that has finished flowering, 

Dahlias are pushing out new growth fast now, they need to be positioned in full sun and at least 10 cm of soil cover above tubers, if dahlias remain in the ground through winter tubers tend to loose soil  soil / mulch cover so if needed top up over tubers now before full growth.

Daisies bushes : Prune where needed to encourage summer flowering, and prune spring-flowering shrubs as well now if they are taking up too much room in the spot they are planted, take back to past growth now before seed is set and new growth hardens. 

Summer bedding annuals : will thrive if planted now in the warm soil, pot's and hanging baskets. Petunias, lobelia, nemesia,  nasturtium, salivea,  marigolds and many more to choose from in retail outlets now. 

Geraniums are now available, plant in a sunny, dry spot and dead head often to keep them flowering. Fuchsias are also available for planting now, they prefer semi-shaded areas and along with hydrangeas take over from the spring flowering of rhododendrons, camellias and azaleas. 

Tuberous begonias: Those who store tubers over winter will be checking to see if shoots are starting. If new to tuberous begonias choose a well-drained site that is protected from wind in a semi shaded spot. Early morning and late afternoon sun is ok. Plant tubers with soil just barely covering them at 20-30cm apart with the indented side facing up and water well, roots and sprouts will form in a few weeks. Keep watered enough to keep the soil around the plants very slightly damp, never enough for it to be soggy, avoid watering on top of the plants encouraging mildew. At the first sign of a white patch on any of the leaves apply a fungicide. Feed Begonias with a well-balanced ( fish based) plant food every 2 to 3 weeks. Begonias have male and female flowers on the same plant with the former containing stamen and the latter an ovary or seed sack, to encourage bigger blooms female flowers are picked off and the prettier male ones left to flourish.

My buxus hedging is still too soft to be trimmed, when you can bend new growth and it snaps cleanly then it will trim cleanly, if too soft the hedge will still be growing and you will not get a sharp cut. 

Lawns : Have some lawn  fertiliser on hand for the next rain  (which never seems far away this month) encouraging strong roots to withstand the hot months ahead.

Vegetables: Changeable weather is affecting  tomatoes, they literally turn bluish in colour  when affected by a cold snap but soon recover once the heat returns, best not to water late in the day while the day's are swinging from hot to cold. The odd chill keeps leaf veg from bolting to seed so it's not all bad.

Fruit: All fruit seems to be doing well even though the weather has been so changeable, nutrients and moisture are the important elements while fruit is forming. Berries and plums mature first and birds have it all worked out! Berry bushes and strawberries will need a net covering to keep them off, some use old net curtains.

Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in North Otago November 11th 2019

Four seasons one after the other since November started ....heat of summer, windy autumn, winter chill then wet unpredictable spring!!!

However rain is better than dragging hoses around the garden and it has been gentle rain which is always a bonus in Spring.

It is time once again to cut back plants that have finished flowering, alyssum, ground cover phlox, aubrietia, aquilegias and forgetmenot. if you cut them back now they will green up again and look good over summer, same goes for Erica's, cut all the brown spent flower stems back and they will green up again in no time.
After spreading compost, I started filling every gap with flower seedlings like cosmos, petunias, static, blue salvia, natushims, lavatera and lobelia not leaving any room for weeds to grow, hence grateful for the rain.

All trees have leafed up now, don't be afraid to cut out over crowding branches to let light on to plantings underneath. If there are two branches filling the same spot take the lower one out. Maples and Oak trees tend to grow thick canopies, thin them out as required. I remove heaps but when I stand back and look it is not noticeable and now there is dappled light coming through.

This year my dahlias are slower to leaf up than past years, once in bud they can be pinched out like chrysanthemums to encourage bushiness' but they will still get tall so put stakes in now before they get up too far and begin to bend and fall.

If your daffodils did not flower so well this spring, It's a good time to break up large clumps while you can still see where they have been, flowering can be restricted when the clumps get over crowded. Plant out in small groups in about 20 cm of compost...plant, feed with blood and bone and mulch so they don't dry out over summer.

There are autumn flowering bulbs in Garden centers now, like belladonnas, crocuses, nerines, plant in full sun where they will not be disturbed.

Water lilies can be added to ponds now that the water is warmer, if buying one it should be in leaf,  plant into a plastic basket using thick news paper first then some manure and garden soil, plant the lily in soil then top with a thick layer of stones or gravel. It is important not to let any fertiliser or manure leach out into the pond water because it will encourage the water to go green with slime which is harmful to fish when caught in gills. If your pond is stagnating it means that it is not working as I have mentioned before  put in some un-sprayed barley straw weighed down with a rock so it does not float around. At first the pond water will not look too healthy but soon you will be amazed at how fast it will clear and stay clear once things start working naturally. To work naturally the bottom of the pond can and should be a little muddy, but the top should be clear, you can easily tell when it is. Introduce some oxygen weed from a pond already filled with fish, fish blow their eggs into the weed so there is sure to be eggs now that water is warmer, these will hatch out in your pond with no big fish around to eat them. You will not have to feed fish as the warmer months attract plenty of bugs to a pond.
Lawns:  Keep mowers up a notch and try mowing without the catcher now and then, then rake the clippings out over the lawn to add humus. Lawns need fed regularly through the growing and cutting seasons but never without moisture to follow to avoid grass burning. Have some fertiliser on hand for the next rain. New lawn seed sown should germinate quickly  in damp warm soil. Spray daisies, clover and flat weeds with lawn weed spray and the gaps where the weeds die will fill in with grass during this rapid growing season.

Fruit: Check your fruit trees now for over crowded bunches, thin bunches out by snipping small fruits off with sharp scissors if winds do not do it for you.

Vegetables:
I have planted peas where the broad beans were and lettuce and coriander where I dug out the beetroot. Potatoes are well up, corn and pumpkins going well now after that strong wind and so far no white butterflies about looking for brassica to lay eggs on.

Keep planting all vegetables but not too many of the same at one time.

Cheers, Linda.  

Gardening in North Otago November 5th 2019

Loving this Spring, rain, warm days then rain again. Last weekend and Monday were too hot for me to work in the garden, except in the early morning while the dew was still on grass.

Such an abundance of flowering right now, rhododendrons, azaleas, peony roses, iris, and fresh green on hedging and trees everywhere we look. This is the time for planting but never in the heat of the day, wait until the end of the day or better still wait and plant on a dull day if possible. I am busy most days weeding and pricking out flower and veg seedling into punnets, I like to keep every space in the garden filled to not only look amazing but also to leave no room for weeds to take hold. Those that do persist need to grow fast to the light which makes them easy to pull. A full garden also keeps plant roots shaded and less evaporation after watering.

Sow summer flowering seeds now and leave to germinate in a well lit semi shaded area, too sunny and the mix dries out too quickly, too shady and seedlings grow too fast looking for light. Once seedlings come through leave until a set of two leaves fully form then prick out carefully into punnets and water often while tiny with a soft spray until firm enough to cope with a stronger hosing. Once plants have filled punnets with roots they can be planted out into the garden and should thrive. 

This is the perfect time to get Children involved in gardening by planting sun flower seeds so they can watch the plants grow fast and taller than them, runner beans are great for growing over bamboo or wooden lengths shaped into a teepee tent shape for the bean runners to grow over to form a green living tent for them to play in and produce fresh beans. Children love peas, carrots and radish and all berries straight from the garden. Also by planting swan plants monarch butterflies will visit, lay eggs to hatch for Children to watch grow into fat caterpillars before creating a chrysalis to grow a beautiful butterfly, nature at it's best that is touch, smell, taste and happening in real time.

Peony roses are stunning right now in bud and flower, it pays to put supports under them to hold up the heavy flowers and because they are growing so fast, I have tall wire supports shaped like a u that are pushed into the ground with the rounded top in place to let them flop over and stay in place. They need the water kept up. I have some crowns that were planted last season so have let only one flower develop to see what it is like and removed any others. I will cut the one blooming flower off before it makes seed pods. A clump will form much faster if you do not let it flower for the first two years.

 

Hybrid clematis:  ( those large flowered clematis) are shooting sky ward now, you have to be quick to train them onto supports or they will just find their own way over plants. Direct them while trailers are still soft, they like a lot of feeding to take them to great heights, manure is great. Don't worry if you have one with no buds just yet they all have different flowering times, If you have just put one in this year, let it flower then cut it to the ground this will make it put up more shoots and you will have a much bushier and stronger climber and if you have one that looks dead with the ends wilting I am afraid it has the wilt and should be cut off at the ground. Don't remove it because I have known some to shoot away again the following year, climatic also like lime.

Ponds: Will have heated during all that hot weather which will have encouraged slime, this needs to be removed before getting into fish gills. Barley straw works for reducing slime forming. Wrap in netting and weigh down with a rock. Shallow ponds need shade, plants or shade created during a hot day plus cold water going into a warm pond will help fish over heating. Fish should be breading now and will need a plant like oxygen weed for female fish to blow eggs into so they are not eaten by the male fish.

Lawns: Grass, Grass. Grass...So much mowing! If like me you have not had to spray the weeds out yet you can sprinkle your clippings around the garden, it is wonderful humus. Don't leave thick piles, spread it out so it can break down fast. Your garden can take as much fresh green growth that you can throw at it now the warmth is here to break it down. Sow new lawns and fill bare patches with the right lawn seed for the lawn you require.

Fruit: Blossoms have moved on to forming fruit, gooseberries,  currents,  strawberries, pip and stone fruit seem to be all cropping well. Remember to keep water up when needed while fruit is plumping.

Veg: Keep planting veg seeds and plants, a few at a time so you can have the continuous thing happening. If you put too many in at one time they will all bolt at this time off the year. The ground is warm enough for corn and beans pumpkins and courgettes to be planted.

Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in North Otago 1st November

Prunus prunus shimidsu sakura in Rockvale Gardens November

November brings the start of a new busy growing season .
Spring is moving on with new growth still too tender to need our attention we can look, touch and smell natures gifts while weeds beckon us.

Roses: No flowers on my roses as yet but buds are forming, thank goodness for all the rain to get them off to a good start. Peony roses are budding well  ready to delight us when they explode into flower.

Dahlias are pushing through now, I discovered some in shade as tree branches have spread wider. Dahlias can be shifted while leaves are still low , take a good amount of soil that roots are growing into. and plant in a sunny position. 

Hydrangeas have leafed up and are starting to produce flower heads so it is important to keep the water and food up to them, old stable manure, blood and bone, liquid or slow release fertiliser will keep them happy and flowering well. It's lime for pink and Epsom salts or aluminum sulphate to keep them blue. Strong winds can be detrimental to new hydrangea leaves, if they do get damaged they will soon recover.

Fuchsias are making a lot of growth now as well, if you missed cutting any back do it now, they will flower later but will soon catch up. Fuchsias are on sale right now and are wonderful in a shady spot and potted.
Fuchsia tip cuttings can be taken now, if you spot some you like in a friends garden ask for some cuttings. I break a cutting off at a heel or a nodule section, remove some of the top growth and push into firm wet river sand. 

Abutilon (Chinese lantern: If you are looking for something non invasive to make a show of colour against a wall why not try Abutilon they come in strong colours of, yellow, orange, burgundy and white. I planted yellow, burgundy and white together in a large container under planted with a lime green grass. Being a rather spindly plant I intertwined them and they now look like one bush. 

The weight of rain on deciduous tree branches makes it easy to see those needing to be lifted, if left they cast shade over surrounding plants. Any branch growing downwards with a canopy branch directly above it can be cut back or removed altogether. 

Lawns: Still getting heavy dews on lawns which helps to keep them lush, but hot days will soon put grass under stress, have lawn food on hand for the next good rain. If your lawns are inclined to crack when dry they have probably been planted on soil with high clay content. Apply gypsum ( soluble lime) and water in, after a couple of years of doing this your lawns will have a spring in them as gypsum works it's way through to break up clay pans. 

Vegetables: The rain, even though we think there has been enough of it this spring has been a treat to veg gardens as hosing does not give the same results as a good rain, but of course with all lush growth weeds will take over if left unattended. Hoeing while small is still the best weeding method I know. Any veg planted or sown now will pop up and thrive when the sun shines.

Tomatoes; will be getting taller and flowering now however the consistent cold snaps and overcast days will be holding them back ,making leaves curl and take on a blueish look. this will stop once we get a continuous warm spell. On dull cold days watering will chill them further so water and folia feed on the warm days early in the day to allow time for soil to warm again before the evening.  

Rockvale Garden is bursting with new growth and wonderful fragrances, come wander and enjoy, open daily.

Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in North Otago October 21st November 2019

November already, spring almost over and weather still unsettled with a chilling cold snaps and on and off rain. But proving a great spring for rhododendrons, azalea's, dogwoods and lilac after and peony roses are putting out fat buds in readiness for their grand display.  If roses were hard pruned in August instead of July they will be slow to leaf and bud, if green fly have established on new tip growth remove with finger and thumb and if rust effected leaves can be removed and bagged to stop spread. Once leaves have firmed up I will spray with fish emulsion and an organic fungicide. Always best to spray on a dull day when there are less bees around and never spray or wet leaves at dusk, rose leaves should be dry going into warm nights to prevent mildew growing.  

Spring is the best time for transplanting seedlings that have popped up from existing plants in the garden, like hellebore seedlings. ( Winter rose) last years hellebore seedlings should be strong, small plants now, I have been potting some up in root trainer pots, then once the little pots are full of roots they can be planted in groups under deciduous trees, and around rhododendrons, camellias, hydrangeas and fuchsias, they all like the same shady conditions.  

Box hedge: I am waiting for the new growth to firm up a little before trimming the buxus hedging, If trimmed too soon it will be a wasted effort because while foliage is very soft they are still putting out growth. When you feel spring new growth is done choose an overcast day to trim, this allowing the under growth a little time to recover before being subjected to our harsh NZ sun. However sunburn on new buxus growth is unavoidable and thankfully hedges will soon grow through the burning.  All soft trimmings can go on the garden or into the compost, they break down well in spring.

Planting on a slope: Spring is probably the best time to plant out a slope or bank, the ground is moist and plant roots are growing fast which means they will get a good hold before the heat of summer and while small the dreaded winds should not get a hold of them and whip them out of the ground. Prepare the bank  first by spraying out all weeds and grass, they will compete with moisture that your plants need. If it is possible terracing a steep slope with rocks or sleepers would be beneficial to hold moisture around plant roots. If this cannot be done try not to disturbed soil / clay in areas that are not being planted. If the soil is disturbed and broken up it will wash away with rain and watering. Planting: Dig a hole that is deep into the bank and shallow at the front, (an angle hole) this will create a hollow reserve for water. Use stones around each plant, this will help to prevent wind blowing soil away from the roots. Choose plants that grow in dry conditions, like South African plants; Greviller, leucodendron, Proteas, ask the Garden center assistant which plants survive well in a pot without a lot of watering, the plants they can leave for a while and they still look good when dried out. I mass plant lupines to fill the gaps on a bank until all the other plants get bigger, they give a spectacular show in the second year of planting and have the added advantage of fixing nitrogen into the soil.

Grass, Grass. Grass...So much mowing! If you have not sprayed lawn weeds out yet you can sprinkle your clippings around the garden, it is wonderful humus, but don't leave thick piles, spread it out so it can break down fast. Now the ground is warm your garden can take as much fresh green growth that you can throw at it. Leave the catcher off from time to time and rake cuttings evenly over the lawn. 

Vegetables/fruit

My no dig veg garden was turned into a strawberry patch a couple of years ago and this year I have renewed most of the plants into soil topped in pig manure then mulched with pine needles surrounded the year old strawberry plants are doing well having been feed with pig manure and blood n bone then mulched with fresh grass clippings to keep the weeds out until I find the time to gather pine needles. All berry fruit need consistent watering to produce plump fruit. A little potash around the drip line watered in will help with fruiting, 

Making a no dig garden: Find a sunny spot on bare ground,( not concrete) surround with sleepers, logs, Oamaru stone or boards high enough to hold layers of manure, soil /compost and straw. If working on bare dirt, spread a layer of manure straight on the damp ground, (this will bring the worms up). Then spread a thick layer of compost, old leaf mulch and dried grass clippings, (wet down.) add a layer of soil, clay soil is fine, water well after each layer leaving no dry spots. Next add a layer of straw, (wet down) then add more layers of compost and old leaf mulch and dried grass clippings, (wet down) then top more soil, (wet down), a little lime and an all purpose fertiliser can be added as you build the layers. Lastly add a top layer of straw which suppresses the weeds and is a great deterrent to slugs. When you think the garden is high enough start planting and you should be eating your own produce with in six weeks at this time of the year.

Keep planting, so much for the veg and flower garden is on offer right now. 

Cheers, Linda.

No dig garden.

Gardening in North Otago October 16 th 2019

Fantasic Sun! after all that lovely rain soaking in where it is needed in spring.
Everyday something new and beautiful greats me in our garden, this week fragrant lilac, peony rose's, sweet-peas, English abutilon and Kōwhai to please the birds.
If you need to shift rhododendrons, azalea's or camellia's do it immediately after flowering, before they put on their new season growth, and if your spring flowering shrubs are in need of a trim prune them back once they have finished flowering.
Mulch right now will help keep the moisture we now have deep down where it will be needed if we get those October winds. Mulch breaking down into soil will not only retain moisture but improves soil structure  while suppressing weed growth. Mulch can be straw, grass clippings, soft hedge clippings or weed free compost to keep exposed soil from baking while plants are establishing. To create a new top soil continual mulching plus gypsum breaking down into clay or poor draining soil will eventually convert poor soil into good growing soil.
Geraniums and pelargoniums are available now and should be planted in a sunny position where roots will never sit in water. Fuchsias are also on offer, they benefit from moist soil and afternoon shade to thrive as do hydrangeas, both fuchsias and hydrangeas take over from spring flowering shrubs to give summer and autumn colour and there are so many beautiful varieties to choose from.  
Dahlias, will be shooting now, tubers will rot if sitting in wet ground too long,  good drainage and full sun is the place for them.
Roses should now have new growth, this is the month to feed them with slow release Fertiliser which will add nutrients to roots when ever water is applied.
Potted plants also need slow release fertiliser, re-pot any plants that have been in the same container for more than three years.  Pot bound plants will need have the root ball removed using a sharp spade,  and can probably g into the same pot once most of the old potting mix is removed and fresh mix and water crystals are packed around the roots. 
Cymbidium orchids can be divided and re-potted now if crowded, and time to look for shoots appearing on  tuberous begonias, if they are beginning to move divide if needed by slicing with a sharp knife at an eye then bed into damp sawdust until ready to plant.
Water lilies are available this month and need to be planted in a basket lined with sphagnum moss or a double layer of chux dish cloths, then add garden soil, slow release fertiliser or manure, more soil then the lily and lastly a thick layer of shingle placed on top to help weigh the basket down in the water and stop the fertiliser / manure leaching out which will create green slime growth in the pond..
Lawns: 
Moss will be a problem in lawns after all the rain, I will be dealing to mine with sulphate of iron watered on with a watering can ( directions on the back of pack). Moss will turn black and die, rack out with a metal rake, loosen soil and re-sow with grass seed.  Poor drainage, shade or compacted soil will be the reason moss takes hold. Aerating with a fork or spiky shoes a top dressing with compost will add humus and encourage worms. Lawn weed spraying will work now also, I like to spot spray only in the hope of missing as many worms as I can.
Fruit and veg:
Right now in the veg garden there will be potatoes being mounded, planting of beans and salad greens, peas, and beetroot. Pumpkin, corn can be planted now also. That fabulous pig manure is on offer again, spread on top of soil to suppress weeds and the worms will take it down 
Grapes are beginning to show leaf, if dampness hangs about they could be affected by fungus, if noticed spray with an organic fungicide while growth is new and continue until day's become hot and dry 
Codling moths: If you have had trouble in the past with codling moth, get traps in place now before fruit forms, codling moths attack apples, pears, walnuts, quinces, crab apples and stone fruit such as plums and peaches. The females lay their eggs on the foliage near a young fruit and when the grub hatches it crawls to the fruit and eats its way inside. Once inside it is very hard to control. After a period of time of feeding it emerges and forms a cocoon in the loose bark or under the tree, where it will winter over to emerge as a moth in the spring/summer and start the cycle again. A female moth can lay up to 300 eggs during her short life. Some trees never attract the moth, but if one does you can be sure others will be chosen close by. Eradication of codling moth, quarter fill a tin or plastic milk container with treacle and hang in the tree to attract male grubs, the treacle is said to smell like the female pheromone which will attract the male grub into the container to reach a sticky end. A double bonus is that the treacle will attract grub eating birds.
Rockvale Garden in Weston is full of spring beauty right now and open daily, bring a picnic, seating is plenty, toilet available  / donation entry.
Cheers, Linda

ReplyForward