Gardening in North Otago June 17th 2019

Getting rid of ivy on trees and walls.

A nice past week of lovely winter day's but still a lack of frosts here on the coast however as this article is always a week behind frosts may now be a nightly occurrence.
A lot of cutting back summer growth and spreading compost here last week and while doing this being able to see what is going on at ground level.

Convolvulus has died off on top so when pulling out take it right back to the soil and remove as many roots as you can other wise roots will romp away and pop up everywhere in spring. Don't add convolvulus roots to compost because cold weather slows down decomposition so these roots will continue growing within the compost.

Ivy: It is too late in the year to trim soft trees and shrubs but ivy can be attacked if it is getting out of hand. It takes really nasty spray to kill ivy and with the height ivy grows spraying  would be a dangerous exercise when you will achieve the same visual effect of dead ivy by cutting the plant back at the bottom. Leave approximately 20 leaves close to the roots then paint upper and lower surfaces as well as the cut ends with an Ivy killing gel. The gel is systemic so it will kill down to the roots and is inactivated in the soil plus will not affect neighbouring plants, death of Ivy can take up to 14 days.

Arborists will be very busy now with deciduous trees standing bare, rule of thumb is keep the centre open by removing inward growing and crossover branches, don't just shorten an unneeded branch back because it will regrow from that point, take it right out. Flowering cherry and plum trees are best pruned in summer / autumn  because of silver leave infection. Silver leaf fruiting bodies release spores when sap is down during cooler, wetter periods less infection when the weather is warm and dry.

Always make sure your pruning equipment is cleaned from one tree to the next, methylated spirits is good for doing this. 

Self seed plants: here on the coast there are so many self seeded plants that can be potted to grow on at this time of the year, Hellebore, lupins, poppies, pansy, viola, forget- me- not and primula. They will keep making strong roots during winter and be ready to plant out in spring.

While weeding I found lots of rogue trees and shrubs introduced by birds popping up everywhere, some which have grown in amongst shrubs like rhododendrons and camellias and become quite established before I noticed them and stubborn to remove. It is best to remove them completely if you can because they just keep growing stronger each year and undermine the roots of the wanted plant. 

Lawns: In spite of winter’s arrival, in all but the coldest climates lawns are resting but roots will still be active. If we have a decent rain in the offering feeding before or during with a mix of fine compost and lawn fertiliser will keep lawns in good health and ensure they maintains a better colour through winter by feeding lawns gently and, at the same time, promote beneficial bacteria in the soil.  A few weeks after feeding, sprinkle some Lime over the lawn to lift the pH. If in doubt, take some soil to a garden centre and ask to have its pH checked If much below 6 on the pH scale lime spread now will show a marked improvement during the growing seasons. Broad-leafed weeds flourish during winter, clover, dandelions, Onehunga weed, daisies take advantage of the cooler conditions. I have been popping weeds and daisies out with the point of secateurs and filling bare patches with compost for grass to spread into.

Vegetables: The shortest day is upon us already and traditionally garlic planting time,  break cloves from the bulb and plant point facing up around 2 inch apart 1-2 inch deep in a sunny location in rich, well drained soil. I cover with pea straw for winter protection, garlic will pop up when ready to sprout.

Fruit: Healthy, productive, bare rooted fruit trees will be on offer for planting now. One of the main attractions of growing your own fruit is knowing which, if any chemicals have been used to produce a crop. Get fruit trees off to a good start by planting in full sun and free draining soil. Fruit trees in shade are more likely to have pest and disease infections, and poor cropping. If soil is on heavy clay dig planting holes down deep into clay, break up clay, add soil and stones well down to create a sump for drainage.

Prune citrus during winter, when there is no chance of borer entering the pruning wounds.

Cheers, Linda.

Spread compost and lime together on lawns in winter.