Gardening in North Otago December 21st 2020

This column will be short because Christmas is but a couple of days away and I am sure gardening will only come into play when it is time to dig the potatoes and carrots and pick the peas for Christmas dinner. What a treat to harvest your own produce, so worth all the work that goes into growing veg. In the flower gardens: Watering to keep gardens going will be needed over the festive season, a good deep soak will be kept longer in the soil if mulch is layered on top of bare damp soil. Mulch on hand could be compost mixed with grass clippings or Arborist mulched green waste, sometimes referred to as forest floor, even hedge trimmings or foliage cut back from plants or shrubs layered among plants will keep moister there longer and the hot sun from baking soil. This would be especially handy if going away for a break. Fruit trees are needing moisture to plump up fruit so a good soaking now and then and mulch if possible will ensure good crops. In the veg Garden: It is a shame that this very hot time of the year is when most head off for a break needing to leave produce at it's best behind in the veg garden. I grow a lot of stock plants in pot's and trays which I need to hold from drying out if I head off for a few days. I have found soaking them and then shading with shade cloth keeps them from drying out too soon. This could also work with veg plots, a good deep soak then shade created to stop that baking sun. Pumpkin plants are well on now so water needs kept up to them until enough large tough leaves have grown to shade roots. Corn should be putting on good growth as well, mulching around corn roots after a good soak will encourage good strong growth. Tomato plants will need supported, leaves removed to let light into over crowded plants and tunnel and glass house doors remain open to let insects in to fertilise flowers. Garlic will be ready to harvest if it was planted on the shortest day you will know garlic is ready to harvest when the bottom two leaves have died and a third is also showing signs of browning off, some green leaves will remain so once pulled from the ground leave the top green growth attached, tie into bunches and hang until all green tops have dried into the cloves. I wish you all a joy filled Christmas and a happy and safe 2021. Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in north Otago December 9th 2020

Rain then wind, rain then wind!!! hoses are not put away.I had a couple of days in Wanaka this week having Nana time with grandies, then back to the garden again on Thursday.I know all gardeners will be finding there is so much to be cut back in the garden, plants like tree peony which doubles in size each growing season. Don't let tree peony swamp your garden and smother other plants. When finished flowering the older woody canes can be cut out. By doing this now seed pods will be cut off as well, if allowed to ripen they will pop all over your garden and grow. Other larger plants I have had to cut back are bush lavatera's, English abutilon, ornamental broom, and false Valerian. These will all grow back soon and look a lot nicer, some will flower again. Keep deadheading roses, don't just cut the flower off, cut at an outward facing bud on a lower section of the branch strong enough to support a new flower. Begonias are really pushing through now and I see that I have lost a few that I left in the ground from last year. I did dig and store some of them over the winter which I am now glad about. The food begonias most appreciate is any fish based fertiliser, as a folia spray or watered in around their roots. Hydrangeas are producing flower heads now so it is important to keep the water and food up to them, old stable manure, blood and bone, dry, liquid or slow release fertiliser will keep them happy and flowering well. Remember it's lime for pink and Epsom salts or aluminum sulphate to keep them blue.  Fuchsias are making a lot of growth now as well, if you missed cutting any back do it now, they will flower later but will soon catch up .Fuchsias are on sale right now and are wonderful in pots for a shady spot and they soon become bushy and to fill a pot. Tip cuttings can be taken from fuchsias now, if you spot some you like in a friends garden ask for some cuttings. I break a cutting off at a heel or a bud section, remove some of the top growth and push into firm wet river sand.Tip cuttings cuttings from Hebe's will also root with no trouble in river sand .  Abutilon (Chinese lantern: If you are looking for something non invasive to make a show of colour against a wall why not try Abutilon (Chinese lantern, they come in three strong colours, yellow, orange, burgundy and white. I planted yellow and burgundy and white together in a large container with nice lime green grass's below, being a rather spindly plant I intertwined them and they now look like one bush. If trained against a wall leave some longer branches and shorten back others to get a good cover of flowers.  Peony roses: What a wonderful addition to the flower garden peony roses are, they have been fantastic this year or am I just seeing more in peoples gardens? The brilliant shades and very large blooms fill many vases I am sure. Remove seed pods once blooms have finished to stop plants putting effort into making seed. Low hanging tree branches: With the weight of rain not so long ago I could see which branches need lifting on large deciduous trees, if left they will cast too much shade over surrounding plants. It's the lower branches that can be removed without making the tree look as though it has been cut. The upper branches will hide the cuts, so any branch growing downwards with a canopy branch directly above it can be cut back or removed altogether.  Lawns: keep lawn food on hand for the next good rain, lawns get really stressed from now on as the heat of the day intensifies. If your lawns are inclined to crack when dry they have probably been planted on clay soil, apply gypsum ( soluble lime) and water in. After a couple of years of doing this your lawns will have a spring back in them. Gypsum works it's way through the clay and makes it become more like soil. Vegetables: The days are warm and the nights a little cooler, just right for growing. I am amazed that the white butterfly is STILL not a problem in our garden, long may it last. I had bad luck with the runner beans planted directly into the ground before labor weekend, they popped up then were eaten off I am guessing by snails / slugs!. So more beans have been planted but this time into trays to be transplanted when big enough to make a start on climbing up the frame. But, yes I know the slugs & snails will be waiting so I will make beer traps out of empty plastic fiz bottles by cutting the bottles with the lid in place through the middle, bury the lidded half in the ground and fill with beer, cut door opening in the other half for snails & slugs to slide in, then force the other half with door opening on top. The bottom of the bottle will be the roof to keep the rain out. Tomatoes will be getting taller and starting to fruit now, the removal of over half the leaves on a plant will benefit your plants by allowing more nutrients to the fruit along with more sun to encourage flowering and allowing flowers to become more visible for pollination, try it and see if you get a better crop. The cooler nights tend to upset tomato plants, leaves become bluish and tend to curl causing plants to become susceptible to blight. Another recipe!!  Comfrey liquid fertiliser. With its deep taproot, and large root system, comfrey pulls its nutrients from way down in the subsoil, where most other plants can't reach. Comfrey is high in just about every nutrient a plant needs, including the big 3, Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potassium and many trace elements. Its high carbon to nitrogen value means that it does not deplete nitrogen from the soil, as it decomposes. In fact, it becomes a good source of nitrogen. And it has more potassium than composted manure.Comfrey leaves decompose down to a black liquid over a 6 week period. Pick and break up as many leaves as you can harvest, place in the bottom of a large container, weigh down with a rock and within 6 weeks the leaves will have decomposed into a thick  black liquid. Dilute to 1 part comfrey liquid to 15 parts water, dilute more when using on seedlings. ( let me know if you would like comfrey to start a patch)   Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in North Otago December 7th 2020

Rain, rain fantastic rain, gardens and pastures will be singing this Monday as I write. Does the cutting back NEVER end? It's getting rid of it all that creates a problem for most people, however at this time of the year the cut back growth is soft and with the help of daily heat will break down in heaps or on the compost so pile it up until it all reduces, then cart it off. Gaps left can be built up with fresh compost and planted out in summer annuals. Catmint edging can be cut right back now, it will grow back and flower again and lavender needs to be trimmed when it has finished flowering to stop it going leggy. English lavender is worth cutting, bunching and hanging once stems have firmed, it will continue to give off that lovely fresh lavender fragrance right through the year until it flowers again next summer if kept inside. Rhododendrons finished flowering need spent flowers removed before they make seed, impossible to do on very large bushes but beneficial to smaller bushes as you want them to put growth into the bush not seeds. There is a point on a spent flower that when bent will break cleanly without damaging new growth. Roses: will have enjoyed the rain but remove rain damaged buds and blooms, if left they will encourage fungus during humid weather. roses need dry sunny days to flower at their best. Lilies will be enjoying moisture in the ground, lilies cannot cope with dry ground but like most plants will rot if water logged. Hedge trimming : Ivy that has romped away can be trimmed right back now before it sets flowers then seeds because every ivy seed will germinate easily. Hedge trimming is on going here for a while when new growth has stopped. Storing dried Herbs: Herbs should be harvested when flavor and aroma oils are at their peak, before they flower. Harvest early in the morning after the dew dries and before the heat of the day. Herbs must be completely dry when cut and bundled for drying to rub and store, any moisture will result in mold. Drying herbs is well worth the effort as a summer harvest and drying can amount to enough mixed herbs to last all year, as well as a gift to others. Culinary herbs to dry: rosemary, thyme, sage, dill, basil, chives, parsley, oregano, tarragon, nasturtium (leaves and flowers) Fruit: black currents, raspberries and gooseberries are all wanting continuous sunny days , removed any strawberries showing signs of rot and large top leaves to let more air and light in but they need to have a net cover if exposed to birds. Vegetable garden: Weeds as well as veg are romping away but are easy to pull while the soil is damp, again get rid of any veg rotting and when time and weather allows work ground with a hoe to get air in. Keep potatoes mounded, not long now to dig for Christmas dinner along with peas, board beans, carrots, beetroot and lettuce, produce so good from your own garden to the table.

Gardening in North Otago December 1st 2020

December and it's dead heading roses time again, I have been laying the rose petals out on a trestle table to dry for potpourri. The fragrance  as they dry is wonderful, It is 6 weeks from cutting from the bush to new bud at this time of the year.I have found old hellebore leaves that had not been removed loaded in green fly!! I will cut every last one out and dispose of so the green fly does not fly off onto my waiting roses. It is so important right now to keep the water up to the roses, constant feeding and deep soaking at the roots will keep them healthy and not in need of spraying. A rose that is struggling will be susceptible to everything bad. Night beetles are on the wing again, newly planted young trees are the worst targeted... these beetles can strip leaves right off, If this happens don't be alarmed because another lot of leaves will soon grow.  Night beetles usually sleep through the day under a tree they are feeding on. Get rid of weeds like biddy bid, while seeds are still green, wherever you see it pull it out, don't let the seeds ripen and drop.  Convolvulus is a battle here for me, popping up through plants everywhere, every winter I make an effort to get to the roots while the garden is resting but it still pops up. Some gardeners have had success with soaking long convolvulus runners in weed spray solution which should kill well down through that network of roots. Fat-hen is another weed that spreads quickly, it will be ripe now needing to be pulled before seeds drop. Flag iris have flowered now so large clumps can be broken up and transplanted in a sunny spot. Prepare the bed by digging in fresh compost and some lime then plant, leaving half the rhizome (root) exposed to bake in the sun over summer. Long leaves can be cut half way back to reduce transpiration while reestablishing.　 Bulbs: While you can still see where spring bulbs have been cover them with mulch to stop them drying out over summer, Weed free compost is fine then you can plant annuals on top to fill gaps. If large clumps of bulbs flowered poorly this is a good time to break them up and plant out into smaller groups using fresh compost to give them a good start. Montana clematis have finished flowering but wait a little longer before trimming back because they have not finished their new growth spurt, if you trim now you will have to do it all over again in a couple of weeks. However wisterias can be dealt with now, if your wisteria has nice strong flowering hardwood branches that flower well then no prunning will be required, remove all the new long trailers, some of these, if left will in time grow into hard wood branches. A wisteria is like a climbing tree and will take over and out grow its place in no time and become very heavy if you let too many leaders grow. Lawns: are suffering with new growth being starved of moisture then scorched in heat. Keep the mower blade up a little higher and mow in the cooler part of the day to help with recovery. Mow without the catcher sometimes and give deep watering's rather than a light sprinkle. If spraying lawn weeds add liquid fertiliser and feed the grass at the same time, don't use sprayed grass clippings around the garden or in compost, spray containers have printed information on how long the with- holding time is.  Herbs: Culinary herbs are the original cut-and-come-again crop, if you grow them get snipping and picking. The plants really will benefit from it, and you'll have wonderful flavours to add to dishes fresh or dried. Most herbs and leafy plants naturally want to create seeds, and once they get to that stage, it means the end of herbs like parsley, chives or basil. So pick leaves early and often to encourage the plant to put out more foliage and prevent it from running to seed. It may be cheating Nature but it extends the life of your plants. I pick and dry, laying fresh herbs on newspaper in a warm, dry place until dry and crisp. Rubbing is next, remove stems, bottle and store.  Vegetables: Don't feed leaf veg now or have the soil too rich, they will put out too much soft growth and bolt, all that is needed is moisture when dry.  Organic insect spray: I am experimenting with some  plant concoctions to keep the white butterfly and aphids away. Organic bug spray1/2 cup hot peppers, diced, 6 cloves garlic, peeled, 2 cups water, Blast in a food processor,strain, add 2 teaspoons liquid soap (without bleach) Fill a plastic spray bottle and mist spray affected plants. Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in North Otago November 18th 2020

November is almost over and we are racing towards December the busy month. Warm winds have dried ground out again as I write this there are rain filled clouds all around but no rain as yet.Because some nights are still cool the night beetle and the big brown moths have not yet made an appearance, but the spittle bug is here frothing up plants. Spittle bug nymphs can turn a liquid secretion into bubbles by moving or pumping their bodies, once bubbles have formed, they use their hind legs to cover themselves with the froth that insulates  them from temperature extremes and protects them from predators. Although spittle bug nymphs do feed on plant sap, the damage is minimal and populations are usually small, so no pesticide is necessary, a strong hose  blast should be enough to dislodge them.  Roses: I am keeping up the fish emulsion to foliar feed roses and deter greenfly plus still removing old hellebore leaves where I see green fly have populated on the under sides and wintered over.orchid growers it is the time to re-pot now, use orchid mix for the best results, it takes the guesswork out of wondering what to feed them. Dahlias are pushing growth up fast, get supports around those that grow large heavy blooms and they will not collapse when fully grown. So much spent spring growth in our garden is needing cut back now, aquilegia's, forget-me-not, pansies, viola's and catmint, plus I have dug out all the pollyanthus to replant in a shady damp spot until next winter. Gaps will be filled with daisies, poppies, petunias, marigolds and salvia .vegetable garden: Early morning soaking keeps moisture up through the day and helps with the germination of seeds. Successive planting can be kept up right through the Summer. If you are having problems with bugs or mildew on veg try an organic option spray or make your own natural sprays, The following plant leaves can be simmered in water and the resulting liquid used on plants. Basil will help to eliminate aphids, Chives prevent mildew occurring on cucumbers, squash and pumpkins. Coriander also for aphids and spider mite. Eucalyptus is a good general purpose insecticide. Rhubarb has been found to help prevent black spot. These may be only plants but in liquid form they can be harmful to children so keep marked bottles high up. I found that it is not a good idea to breath in fumes when simmering, keep doors and window open.  Companion planting: Some plants have been proven to help and enhance others so I will list what has proven to work. Carrots and onions together, celery and the brassica family, i.e.: cabbage, cauliflower, and broccoli, marigolds and beans/brassicas.  Get corn and pumpkins in as soon as possible because they need a long growing and ripening season. Fruit: Keep water up to currants an berries, lemons and fruit trees, it takes a lot out of a plant to grow fruit. There are specially prepared fertilisers for most plants with instructions for how much to apply and when. All fruiting trees and plants need a lot of water now to create juicy plump fruit, it takes only a day of strong wind to zap moisture from the ground. Remember to cover strawberries from birds. Strawberry netting stretches out to cover a large area and does the job well, birds can strip gooseberries as well, throw some frost cloth or old net curtains over them until you get a chance to pick them.   Keep food up to tomatoes as  they grow, be sure to remove laterals of the taller growing variety and stake them to keep them upright as fruits get heaver. They should be flowering now waiting for bee's to pollinate them. If your bees are few and far between on overcast days you may have to move an electric tooth brush close to flowers to gently move  pollen around while leaves are dry.  Cheers, Linda

Gardening in North Otago 10th November 2020

Whew! Rain showers have changed growing conditions here in North Otago so for me a break from dragging hoses about with scruff our dog pulling on the end.   The weight of rain on deciduous tree branches makes it easy to see those needing to be lifted, if left they cast shade over surrounding plants. Any branch growing downwards with a canopy branch directly above it can be cut back or removed altogether because lower plantings need overhead light to prevent stretch growing. Hedges:Because lush growth is later this spring having been so dry hedges will still not be finished pushing out spring growth and if trimmed too early another trim will be needed so best to wait until new growth  has hardened and stems snap clean when bent. All new growth hedge trimmings can go on the compost or be scattered around the garden as mulch. Cut back spring flowering perennials finished flowering and fill gaps with summer annuals, tall like cosmos and lavatera at the back, petunias, nemesia, saliva and marigolds middle and lobelia. alyssum, dwarf sweet peas and petite petunias in front. Roses: Fat rose buds are opening now all healthy and beautiful before succumbing to the stress of hot drying days, aphid, black spot and rust, if water, feeding and mulch is kept up these can be avoided and healthy roses can be enjoyed though to early winter. Dahlias are pushing through now as spring bulbs finish, I discovered some dahlias in shade as tree branches spread wider so have shifted clumps while still low into a sunnier position. Supports can be put in place now for large spreading dahlias before they put on heavy growth. Hydrangeas are starting to produce flower heads now so it is important to keep the water and food up to them, old stable manure, blood and bone, liquid or slow release fertiliser will keep them happy and flowering well. It's a dressing of lime for pink and Epsom salts or aluminum sulphate to keep them blue. Fuchsias are on sale right now and are wonderful in pots or a shady spot, they are making a lot of growth now so if you missed cutting any back do it now, they will soon catch up. Peony roses: What wonderful additions these are to the flower garden, peony roses are beautiful fillers in a sunny spot and great for filling vases. Supports are needed for most peony roses to hold up full flower heads. Elderflower cordial: Elder flowers are covering bushes now, they  don't last long before berries start forming from the flowers. Ingredients: 20 large elderflower heads, 4 lemons, 1 tsp citric acid, 1.5 liters water, 1kg sugar. Method; Grate zest off lemons, then roughly chop into chunks. Gently wash the flowers and steep them in a bowl with water and add this to the flower head mixture. Cover and leave for 24 hours, then strain through muslin. gently bring the strained liquid to the boil, add sugar and stir until dissolved. Pour into sterilized glass bottles and store in the fridge when cool. Add a measure to iced water for the perfect fresh summer beverage for all ages and a dash in gin for those who like a G and T. Vegetables: Keep mounding potatoes to give depth for them to produce more, consistent watering is important for potatoes, this goes for all root vegetables. Leafy veg don't need any extra feeding at this time of the year it will just encourage them to bolt. Only plant as many plants as you think you would use when ready to pick, hold back the other small seedling plants from the same batch and keep in a semi shady place until required for planting. Small plants will hold if watered only when too dry, over watering will encourage rot . Keep pumpkin and squash plants mulched, roots are fragile until their large leaves grow to create the root shade needed. Corn seeds sown last month are now ready to plant out, planting corn in squares rather than rows will ensure pollination on the lower tassel's and add support during strong winds.   Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in North Otago November 3rd 2020

Blossom is almost over for another year "But oh", the Rhododendrons and deciduous azalea's, how lovely they are right now, in my view equal to any beautiful tropical flowers.  Roses, one or two of my roses started to flower this week, a little later than usual because I pruned late, the new growth is healthy and with the on and off again rain and continuing evening chill they should stay that way. I mentioned noticing aphids last week, yes they are colonizing on new buds and can be removed using the index finger and thumb. Aphids winter over on the underside of last year's hellebore leaves, if you have not done so already remove them because new leaves should be up now. If you do not want hellebore seedlings germinating all through the garden cut out spent flowers now before seed is dropped.  Peony roses should be in bud now, get supports under them to help hold up the heavy flower heads. I have tall wire supports shaped like a u at the top that are pushed into the ground with the rounded top in place to let them flop over and stay in place.  If you planted new crowns for this season it would pay to let only one flower develop on these to allow growth to go into the crowns, then cut the one blooming flower off before it makes seed pods. Clumps form much faster if no blooms are produced for the first two years, Peony roses need full sun and do not like to be smothered by other plants plus lots of water before and during flowering.  Lavenders are budding up, if spittle bugs become a problem spraying will not work, the spittle surrounding them is a barrier to pesticide, a forceful hosing will dislodge them and hopefully drown a few.     Hybrid clematis: I have noticed these lovely clematis in Garden centers, Hybrid's are those especially large flowered varieties, not the invasive pink and white montana type. You have to be quick in training hybrids where you want them to grow, train while the trailers are still soft enough to wind around a support. Hybrids need a lot of feeding to take them to great heights, manure, deep down with a little lime added when planting is beneficial. Don't worry if you have one with no buds because they all have different flowering times, If you planted one this year let it flower then cut it to the ground. This will make it send up more shoots and you will have a much bushier and stronger climber. Hybrids can also wilt and die for no reason if this happens cut it to the ground but don't dig it out because I have known some to shoot away again the following year with no sign of wilt.  Filling gaps: I have been filling the gaps in the flower garden with old fashioned cottage flowers like cosmos, love in the mist, salvia blue bedder, Clary sage, and lavatera. These are all taller flowering annuals planted close together so they hold each other up. The more plants put in the less room for weeds to grow is the plan. All the plants mentioned will be flowering at Christmas, and then for ages after if dead headed regularly.  Fruit: No night beetles about yet, they should not be far away and ready to feast on new tree leaves, the damage they cause to established trees is not that noticeable but newly planted fruit and prunus trees can be striped of leaves. Leaves will re-grow and fruits will continue to make growth.    Vegetables: Still perfect Spring weather for growing all veg now the ground is so warm and moist. Board beans are doing well with no sign of rust, could it be the pinch of potash I put in when planting? Peas are romping up netting and beans are in and ready to climb. Keep planting veg seeds and plants, a few at a time so you can have the continuous thing happening. Also plant corn, pumpkins, courgettes, cucumbers and all that need to grow in glass / tunnel houses. White fly seems to find it's way into glass / tunnel houses and multiply rapidly. Sticky traps are a good way to monitor populations of white fly early on in the season, make your own, paint or colour in cards yellow, then smear with a concoction of petroleum jelly cut with a little dish washing liquid. Hang up close to affected plants. If white fly is detected on sticky traps the first line of control is to take action as soon as they appear.1. Begin with a strong blast from a hose, all areas of the leaf, especially the undersides. 2. Organic insecticidal soap (eg, Neem soap) after the water blast can be sprayed taking great care to cover all areas of the leaf, top and beneath. Spray at a cool time of the day and follow up with a couple more sprays a few days later.  Also consider encouraging the whitefly's natural enemies, hover flies and ladybirds by planting flowers and herbs such as calendula, oregano, fennel, parsley even thistles will draw in white fly eating predators. Grow some outside next to the door to tempt beneficial bugs closer. Cheers, Linda.  

Gardening in North Otago November 1st 2020

Gardens will be revived a little after the much needed rain, however so much more is needed during Spring to set growth up for summer,  with soil now warm, moist and ready for planting small weeds are popping up ready for hoeing and easy pulling, all is pretty straight forward now for those who have time to enjoy the rhythm of spring. Birds feeding young will be making a mess in gardens and on paths searching for worms, so annoying to have newly planted annuals scratched out daily. This will not be happening with gardens sporting low front  hedging  or a continuous perennial boarder. I have found strips of shade cloth weighed down with stones covering a front planting will keep the birds off until new plants have settled in and filled out to cover exposed worm filled soil. Rhododendrons, deciduous azaleas and peony roses are now displaying a dazzling range of colours and our Botanical Gardens are bursting with the delight of these spring treasures. Early flowering rhododendrons can now have spent blooms removed before seeds sets, especially those newly planted, energy is needed for growth not making seeds. There is a point on the spent bloom where it snaps off without disturbing the new leaf growth, once you find this point snapping off past blooms becomes easy. Roses are budding up, but I see on some of mine green fly has arrived and a few new leaves have had to be removed where I spotted rust which was expected with soil being so dry and because we mulch thickly in our garden old leaves with rust and black spot spores would have escaped the clean up in early winter.  Keeping a balanced food up to roses is the best form of protection against pests and fungus  as Nature has it's own plan for keeping harmony in a garden. Continual spraying will mean continual spraying which I feel really does upset the balance for plants and insects. I stopped spraying a number of years ago, things got worse before it got better, it took about 3 growing seasons to get a balance back between healthy growth and insect and fungus attack. i now deal to greenfly early as they congregate on new leaf tip growth with a finger and thumb, and remove any leaves showing signs of rust or black spot, feed roots well plus folia feed with a fish based plant food to deter aphids and keep water up. Wisterias are at putting on a display as well now, once flowering is over energy will go into putting out many long leaders, if your wisteria has reached the distance and spread required all of these leaders need to be removed, flower spurs develop on old wood year after year, if new leaders are left they will strive to be aged wood and become heavy un-needed branches. Weeds on pathways and in gravel can be dealt to while small with a hoe or a homemade weed spray of 1 gallon white vinegar (16 cups,) 2 cups Epsom salt or table salt, 1/4 cup dish washing liquid. Pour the vinegar, dish liquid and salt into a spray bottle. shake until combined, let settle for 2 minutes then soak weeds entirely with formula. Let sit for a day  with no rain to get result. Lawns have had a dry start here in North Otago but grass is tough and will soon bounce back with the right conditions, long may moisture and sun continue. Non-sprayed grass clippings can be spread as mulch on gardens to keep weeds down and add humus to soil, only add thick enough to keep out light. Spread around trees and shrubs right out to the drip line to retain moisture but spread it around rather than leaving in heaps. If spraying lawn weeds try spot spraying rather than a full cover as grass is in need of worm action to aerate soil. Fruit: trees and fruit bushes should be well on the way to making fruit, keeping moisture up when the season heats up is the next job, putting a mulch around the drip line all will help retain moisture already in the ground. Vegetables: Now is the perfect time for growing veg, once planted it's all about keeping the weeds down  and birds off to give them room to grow. Pumpkin plants I put in last week are romping away as are the corn seedlings. Planting corn in squares rather than rows will ensure pollination on the lower tassels and add support during strong winds. Potatoes loved  the last rain and are pushing on now the treat of frost is over. Tomatoes will be soon needing to be staked, if you have no glass or tunnel house plant a couple of cherry tomato plants in pots and place in a sheltered, well lit spot, they will produce all season. Russian red bush tomato's also grow well out side in a warm spot.  Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in North Otago October 21st 2020

Well we did get a little rain but a little is nowhere near enough so let's hope we get a big spring downpour before this goes to print! Everyday something new and beautiful greets me in our garden, this week fragrant lilac, sweet-peas, English abutilon and Kōwhai to please the birds. Some plants like peony rose, dahlias and even the rapid growing alstroemerias are slow to develop because of the drop in temperature we have been experiencing. If you need to shift young rhododendrons, azalea's or camellia's do it immediately after flowering, before they put on their new season growth, if large they will need a third of the top removed after transplanting. Once spring flowering shrubs have finished flowering they can be trimmed if needed. Geraniums and pelargoniums are available now and should be planted in sunny positions. Fuchsias are also on offer, they benefit from afternoon shade to thrive. If you are concerned about the predicted hot dry Summer having a disastrous effect on your garden? Plenty of Mulch is the answer to retain moisture and improve soil structure while suppressing weed growth. Straw, grass clippings, soft hedge clippings or weed free compost are excellent cover to keep exposed soil from baking while plants are becoming established. Soil should be soaked before applying mulch and if gardening on clay soil a dressing of gypsum will break down clay or poor draining soil and over years will eventually convert poor soil into good growing soil. Roses will be putting on rapid growth now needing food and water kept up keeping them in good health to avoid the need to spray. Container plants also need slow release fertiliser and re-potting if in a container 2 years or more. If very root bound half a rootball can be removed with a sharp spade, given a good soak in a bucket then replanted into a new mix with water Chrystal's, as I have mentioned before placing a pot inside another will help keep roots from overheating going into summer. cymbidium orchids can be divided and re-potted now if crowded. Water lilies are available this month and need to be planted in a basket lined with sphagnum moss or a double layer of chux dish cloths will do it, then add garden soil, slow release fertiliser or manure, more soil then the lily and lastly a thick layer of shingle placed on top to help weigh the basket down in the water and stop the fertiliser / manure leaching out which will create green slime growth in the pond.. Fruit and veg: I have been digging in aged manure, mounding potatoes, planting beans and salad greens, peas, corn and beetroot. It will be up to the watering from now on!! Watch your fruit trees and Grapes for fungal diseases, if affected spray with an organic fungicide while growth is new. If you have had trouble in the past with codling moth, get traps in place now before fruit forms. Dealing with codling moth: I have had positive feedback with the following, use a plastic milk container, and place in it 1 banana peel, 1 cup vinegar and 1 cup sugar. Fill the container almost full of water, replace the cap and shake it well to mix and dissolve the contents. Remove the cap and firmly secure one container into each apple tree. The moths are attracted to the scent of the concoction, becoming trapped and drowned when they investigate. Refill with water as needed throughout the summer. "Rockvale Garden" is open daily, Bring a picnic seating is plenty, toilet available / donation entry. Cheers, Linda

Gardening in North Otago October 14th 2020

Such beauty throughout North Otago but being so dry all new growth is gasping for moisture, let there be a good drenching soon. Still busy here weeding while weeds are still young, if pieipiri ( biddy bid), Chickweed, convolvulus, couch grass, dandelion and other annual weeds are dealt to before they run to seed will stop weeds taking over your garden. Remember to keep deadheading and feeding flowering pansies and polyanthus as long as there is a chill in the air they will keep flowering until it gets warmer, If you feel they have done all they are going to do dig out, cut old leaves back and plant in a cool shady place where they can be left until planting out next year. Coastal gardens will be ahead of gardens inland where they will still be getting reasonable frosts from time to time. Late frosts on roses new growth can be a problem but don' t be too concerned if new growth has been frosted, rose leaves recover very fast and will have new buds to open in six weeks time. When the nights are warmer any dampness left by hosing on rose leaves will encourage mildew, keep food up to your roses while they are making buds, it's hungry roses that get diseased. For a quick result slow release fertiliser is good right now on any summer flowering plants and shrubs. So pleased to see a selection of organic weed sprays on the market now, fresh new weed growth is coming through the mulch now so it's the right time to zap them on a non windy day, I have been spot spraying convolvulus, couch and clover but care is needed, If roses get even a sniff of weed spray it will deform the foliage and the rose bush will eventually die so don't risk spraying on a windy day. Camellias can be trimmed and shaped when finished flowering, take out branches from the middle to create gaps to let a bird fly through, this lets the light in to help form next year's buds. At this time of the year we can see whether new growth on shrubs have made them too wide and tall for where they are planted hiding good planting areas behind them, it takes only a few years for gardens to close in without us really noticing and what a difference can be made by removing tall front plantings and replace with new and interesting plantings. One area opened in our garden is deep enough to allow me to mass plant with bluebells and include a new maple tree and it was only two scrappy overgrown shrubs removed which has made this difference. The sun flower seeds planted into trays a few weeks ago have now been planted out, because they are still small snails and slugs will be attracted to them so I let them grow on until taller in pots then mulch around them with wood mulch to deter the slugs and snails. Also up and almost ready to plant out are cosmos, larkspur, nasturtium and marigolds which will help fill deep borders. Butterflies: If you are keen to attract monarch butterflies, plant swan plants now but protect from late frosts until established. Last year there was a huge shortage of swan plants for the hungry caterpillars because swan plants are not happy with our cold winters and also attract orange aphids that multiply very fast on young plants. If you have swan plants covered in orange aphids put them into an enclosed space and use fly spray to eradicate the aphids, then again as eggs hatch until they are gone. A good hosing will be needed before butterfly eggs can be laid on leaves. Vegetables Keep an eye on potatoes that are through the ground, frost cloth may still be needed depending on where you live. Seeds are popping up in no time now so get them in ready for salad time. Pumpkin, squash, corn and courgette seeds can go in now but if you prefer to buy plants be sure to harden them off outside in a protected place for a while before planting them out. Carrot fly is on the wing this month, a very small if you put a cover that still lets light in over rows the fly will not get into your carrot rows and lay eggs. The ideal soil for carrots is light, moist and fertile with well rotted compost worked in but not a trace of fresh manure, as this will result in forked roots. Glass houses will be ready for the many varieties of tomato plants on offer. If you have no glass or tunnel house tomatoes are happy growing in containers on a sunny deck or patio, with staking and training as you would in a glass house. Smaller varieties are easiest to manage e.g. Red Robin, Russian red or Totem in containers and the cherry tomatoes like tumbling Tom in large hanging baskets. There are many varieties on offer, plant all in a tomato mix, water as needed and liquid feed fortnightly. Why not try basil plants growing among tomatoes to repel white fly, the general consensus is that basil - both plants and extracts made from the leaves can be an effective natural deterrent for white fly, mosquitoes, tomato horn-worm, aphids and house fly as well as being a wonderful culinary enhancement with tomatoes. Pop into the Garden corner at the Resource recovery park for a good selection of organic veg and tomato plants grown by the Community Gardens ready for planting. Cheers, Linda

Gardening in North Otago 6th October 2020

Windy October to blow blossom from trees, what a relief it was when the wind stopped and the rain fell today. The late prunus blossom, lolly pink canzan, and shimidsu sakura so prettily like pale pink ballerina tutu's are in full bloom this week along with blue bells carpeting  gardens as spring continues here in North Otago. Spring bulbs: As they start to finish, don't be tempted to cut leaves off just yet as the bulbs top up on food for next year from leaves as they die back. Spent flower heads can be removed before seeds form.  If you have really big clumps of bulbs choking your garden space dig half out and plant somewhere else or donate to someone needing spring bulbs. Erica's that flowered over winter can be trimmed when flowers brown new growth will be fresh green through summer. Erica's are such a wonderful ground cover displaying beautiful colour during winter months. A low growing erica will eventually cover a metre of ground and last for many years. Lillie's are really pushing up now so it is a perfect time to get supports in for them as well being careful not to damage bulbs. Lillie bulbs need to be planted in a moist but well draining soil. Mulching will stop soil drying out.     Prune fuchsias back now if you have not already done so because they flower on new seasons wood they can be taken well back. Summer annuals: I have been planting groups of annuals for summer colour, cosmos, lavatera, love in the mist, sun flowers and sweetpeas. When frosts are well behind us begonias, petunias and lobelia can be planted. Too early yet to trim hedges, wait until the new growth finishes and firms up a little or you will be trimming them twice, this applies to box hedging as well, the test is to bend a stalk and if it snaps off it will have hardened enough to trim. The perfect time to trim spring growth on box is during overcast days, hot sun burns new undergrowth, dull days give them time to recover although there will still be some burning which will soon be hidden by new leaves.   Lawns are responding to lawn food here, I am out with it each time it rains and popping flat weeds out with the point of my secateurs while lawns are damp and soft. If you feel you need to spray lawn weeds grass clippings will need to be kept off gardens and compost heaps for a few cuts. Spray free lawn clippings will be beneficial as mulch around gardens, trees and shrubs to retain moisture, a dry summer is predicted. Sifting soil will begin again here this week for re-sowing  lawn bare patches.Vegetables:  Herbs: We can forget the dried herbs in cooking now as all herbs are putting on nice fresh growth. Sage, mint, thyme, rosemary, bay, marjoram, oregano, basil and even nasturtium can be harvested often during the growing season and what is not used can be dried over summer ready to rub and store for next winter. For the most flavor, cut herbs in mid-morning, right after the morning dew has dried. Vegetable seeds can be sown directly into the garden now but don't sow too thickly mix seeds with fine soil when sowing to avoid a lot of thinning. If planting seedlings from punnets cover with shade cloth so birds cannot see them as they are bird feeding young now and they really like to strip small seedlings from gardens.Beans, pumpkin types and corn can go into soil now, once up protect on cold nights. Tomatoes: For those with glass or tunnel houses, prepare the soil well by digging in good organic compost having been heated to the point of all fungus disease being eradicated.  Summer nights here in North Otago can be cool so a glass or tunnel house is the a must if wanting to be a serious tomato grower. However a glass house is a perfect incubator for fungus disease during nights and dull days when moisture is not taken up quickly, never let tomato plant leaves go into the night wet. There are a lot of tomato varieties to choose from. Children love the cherry tomatoes, (a good lunch box filler ) cherry tomatoes can be grown in a large pot on a well lit porch and will keep producing all Summer. Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in North Otago 30th September 2020

What a freezing cold snap early this week, and those poor little new born lambs will have suffered, with it being School holiday time again let's hope the second week warms up. After the temperature drop and strong winds there will be a few causalities in gardens, I had two rows of potatoes blackened and a few trays of seedlings succumb to the intense chill even though they were covered. Rhododendrons with dehydrated foliage and soft new maple foliage damaged, each got a good soak to help them recover until we get a decent rain which is in urgent need now in North Otago. Those districts receiving snow cover will benefit from deep spring moisture but here on the coast the ground is parched. When things warm up again seedlings will zoom up, It is best to pot seedlings on into individual pots for roots to become established before planting out because small seedlings have almost zero survival rate if planted out into a dry garden. Strong growing plants like sun flowers and delphinium seeds are best planted directly into the ground or peat pots and once the pot is filled with new roots plant pot and all, the strong roots will grow out through the pot as it breaks down. Summer colour in the garden should be thought about now if raising plants from seed, petunias, lobelia (both lovely in baskets and pots) nemesia, salvia will all germinate this month and be ready for pricking out into punnets to develop a root mass. All cottage plants as cosmos, poppies, larkspur, nigella (love in the mist) lavataera (annual) can be sown directly in the ground. Begonias & calla lilies will be showing shoots now, begonias can be cut into sections with a shoot to grow as new single plants and covered with damp sawdust to get them started before planting out later in the month. Companion planting: With all the planting going on right now companion planting could be the way to go, Gardeners from the past have documented successful companion planting knowledge down through the years for us to follow. Some plants give off an aroma that is disliked by unwanted insects and others are thought to enhance the growth of certain plants if planted along side them. Nasturtiums attract caterpillars, so planting alongside or around vegetables such as lettuces, broccoli and cabbages should mean the nasturtium will get attacked rather than your edible crop. Fox Gloves have stimulating effects on all plants in the garden, a welcome addition to the flower and veggie garden. Marigold shave a scent that repels aphids and attracts hover flies, which are predator insects, cabbage white butterfly are attracted to their host plant by smell, planting rows of small marigolds are effective in masking the smell and reducing cabbage butterfly damage. Hyssop also repels white butterfly from cauliflower, cabbage and broccoli and other brassica crops. A secretion from the roots of the Mexican tagetes deter eel worms so your potatoes and tomatoes are left alone. Tagetes and marigolds planted near tomatoes and roses will reduce aphid attack and attract hover-flies, voracious eaters of these pests. Basil and tomatoes are a well-known combination, great companions in the kitchen as well as the garden. Garlic, chives and parsley can be beneficial planted with Roses as aphid deterrents. Dill is popular with bees and planted with corn will ensure a bumper crop. Sage is a great herb to plant around a celery crop, as it helps to keep the aphids away. Carrots and leeks work well planted together, they both have strong aromas, which repel the other’s pests. Vegetables: Potatoes are up so mounding begins to get more to the shore. Corn sprouts in no time now, plant in groups so they support each other and pop some dill in to attract bees. Plant corn, beans, courgettes, cucumbers, late tomatoes, lettuce and basil (but protect basil from cold nights) The dreaded carrot fly is about in October when carrots are being thinned, Plant seed sparingly to avoid thinning and don't leave any thinning's about planted rows for the carrot fly to smell and if you have had problems in the past, cover rows with shade cloth to keep the female flies from landing and laying eggs. Fruit: Early blossom will have been affected with the frozen temperatures but we will have to wait and see. Bees are busy working at pollinating fruit bushes and trees on sunny days, keep the water up to them and mulch with unsprayed grass clippings right out to their drip line to keep moisture there, and organise netting over low trees for bird protection. Check all apples trees for woolly aphid ( white furry aphids on branches) spray trees with garlic, pyrethrum and neem oil (mixed)

Cheers, Linda

Gardening in North Otago September 22nd 2020

It is all on now with weeds, while they are small my most used tool is a hoe to keep them from taking hold, especially chick weed and biddy-bid which is worked on here to eradicate every Spring so have no idea why as many seed from both still germinate everywhere! A hoe will not work with couch grass and convolvulus this needs to be dug out while ground is soft and runners can be taken right back under the ground to where they begin, it is very satisfying to know they will not grow back if pulled all the way out. I spot spray in badly affected areas while surrounding are low but never where food is grown. Keeping the light off bare soil with mulch will stop annual weed seeds germinating, compost, un-sprayed grass clippings, (only thick enough to block light) pea straw, that great mulch, which looks like soil from Pukeuri freezing works,(around established plants) and the well cooked mulch from the Waitaki resource recovery park will all do the trick in orchards and rough garden areas. Mulching is also the answer to holding moisture in the ground. Garden edging with perennials is another way of covering the soil and a way to stop birds scratching soil out over paths, If you are looking for a pretty mat forming garden edge and have a clump of cat mint beginning to make new growth, dig the clump up and break into many new pieces with roots and pot them up. When roots fill pots they are ready to be planted as a front edge. This can also be done with lambs ear, erigeron daisy, violets, sage, mono grass and armeria (thrift) Feeding plants. If you have not feed plants or shrubs do it now, there are balanced plant foods for all types of plants on offer now for this time of the year, slow release granules, powdered plant food (watered in), blood and bone. Manure enriched compost rich in nitrogen should have been added to gardens in late winter, too much nitrogen given now will encourage over lush growth. However I often mention using old stable manure around roses to keep them going over their long flowering period, don't dig the manure in as this can cause root damage, watering will take it to the roots as required. Extend food just beyond the drip line where the most active feeding roots are. Having saved a lot of sun flower seed from last years flowering, they were planted two weeks ago and are now up and doing well, I just love seeing those big happy flower faces en-masse following the sun. They will be planted out in groups to stand high behind existing shrubs and any sunny bare areas that need brightening up. I have been noticing a few cherry blossom trees with root stock branches being left to grow. By this I mean any branches that develop below the graft (where the branches begin at the top of the trunk); these should be cut off while still small. If allowed to develop into branches they will take over the whole tree. All flowering cherry trees are grafted onto a strong root stock of a very ordinary white blossom tree so if you have a tree with lovely pink or white blossom and you notice some blossom looks different then most likely it will be a branch growing from below the graft, cut it right out Lawns The buzz of lawn mowers is in the air again, cutting too low will let light in for weeds to grow let them thicken up as they need to be strong to cope with on coming summer heat. Grass seed I planted a couple of weeks back has struck, letting me know the ground is warm enough for re-sowing more bare patches. Vegetable garden Lots to do in the veg garden right now, I have been madly sowing seeds over the last few weeks and it's now the time consuming pricking out to be done, just as well day's are longer now with daylight saving. All salad veg can go in along with, potatoes, peas and carrot seed, tomatoes, pumpkin and courgette plants will still need protection at nights until frosts are over then the ground will be warm enough for runner and dwarf beans. My board beans came through the winter well and have started to bean, It is wonderful have an abundance of choice again and to be picking our own fresh produce. If considering including a raised veg garden to plant up? this can be achieved easily by contacting Aly & Sophia at Hapori o te Ao on 021 044-8209 or at uno.mundo@gmail.com. they will come and measure up then give a quote. Fruit: It's all up to the bee's now. Cheers, Linda

Gardening in North Otago September 16 2020

A lovely weekend just past and much needed rain last week for North Otago, spring growth is now up and away judging by the explosion of blossom, spring bulbs and deciduous trees now showing green. Hydrangeas are budding to leaf, the perfect time to feed and give a good soak, a dressing of lime for pink and alum sulphate for blue. Roses are top priority right now,Things to watch out for are die back after frost damage, not all branches make the grade, if they have been affected cut them right back to new growth, also watch for growth below the graft, it comes up from the root stock, is usually a different colour and leaf to the grafted branches, cut right out. All roses are grafted onto a strong root stock. Green fly can be controlled, they start on the new growth tips so can be removed with finger and thumb. I have not sprayed my roses in the last few years choosing instead to feed them well with aged manure in late winter then folia feed once leaves have fully grown. Some still succumb to black spot, I just remove affected leaves. Planting: It's all on now for planting seedlings in flower and veg gardens and sowing seeds for summer colour, here are some suggestions. Wild flowers, cottage plants, Nasturshams, lobelia, petunias, nemesia, lavatera, salvia, marigolds. Spring is a time when seeds can be sown directly where you want them to grow or if you prefer not to compete with weeds sow in seed trays or bedding 4 and 6 packs to develop roots. Perennials are pushing up through mulch now, hosta's are making a move but there is still time to put the spade through clumps big enough to divide, slice cleanly through with a sharp spade and transplant where needed. Peony roses are also pushing up fast, carefully clear mulch from around them to let sun in. Be very careful not damage the new shoots. Cyclamen: If you were given a cyclamen in flower back in May it is time to plant it outside in a cool shady spot to finish the growing year. Pot up again just before Winter for indoor flowering. Lawns: Lawn mowers are out again, avoid cutting too low as grass is still recovering from winter dormancy. Scalping opens gaps for weeds to take hold. If dasies and flat weeds are a problem lawn spray will work now. I don't want to harm worms or good bacteria in lawns so I only spot spray. Vegetables: If you have never grown veg but intend to grow your own food this growing season it is not hard. A small patch of open ground in a warm spot dug deep and weeded could produce a good amount veg with successive planting and sowing. Rows of peas or beans grown up netted supports can also act as a wind break at one end of the patch with rows of beetroot, lettuce, brasicias, root veg then potatoes at the end with room for mounding the potato rows. Ground that has not grown plants before will not need building up with manure or fertiliser this season. Potatos to plant now as an early crop are Rocket, Cliff Kidney, Jersey Benne, Maris Anchor. Fruit trees in blossom are looking for bee's, raspberries and gooseberries are showing leaf, still time to thin out a gooseberry bush to let light in for good fruit development and easier picking. Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in North Otago September 8th 2020

Such a lovely beginning to the new growing season, North Otago is looking so pretty with masses of lovely blossom and daffodils everywhere, "Spring makes it's own statement, so loud and clear that the gardener seems to be only one of the instruments, not the composer."~ G. B Charlesworth. Cleaning out ponds was first on the list for me last week, leaves and old growth from pond plants needs to be removed and perhaps overflowing the pond will freshen it. Water Lilies, oxygen weed and water iris's are starting to make a move. A couple of years ago a helper and I removed all the yellow bog iris from the big pond, this was a much needed job because this common yellow iris was spreading so fast and took up a quarter of the pond with it's mat forming roots ( lesson learned, don't plant yellow bog iris in a domestic pond) The place for this iris is along the banks of a creek, the fibrous roots are fantastic at holding the sides back from erosion. Don't be tempted to add bull rushes to a domestic pond either, they also spread too quickly. While water lilies are not fully in leaf sections can be cut and re potted. If you do not have a mesh pot specifically for aquatic plants crate holes in the sides of a plastic pot and use that. Line the pot with sacking or woven fabric and 3/4 fill with garden soil and a small amount of slow release fertiliser in the center. Plant water lily section then add stones or gravel to the top of the pot and submerge to the bottom of the pond. Now the sap is up, remove unwanted growth from prunus trees, (flowering cherry) this is said to be the best time to make cuts in prunus to avoid the spread of silver leaf which can spread from tree to tree while in the dormant stage. Always on a warm dry day cut out any weak growth and cross over branches before they grow thick. Cut out all dead branches from beneath Kilmarnoch willows if you have them, this is the ornamental pussy willow once used often in small gardens. Each new branch grows out from the bud of last year's growth. All subsequent years growth dies and builds up under the new growth. The grafted weeping tree is much nicer to look at with all those dead branches removed and it is easier to do this when bare of leaves. Keep folia feeding new spring growing plants (other than bulbs , they store their own food ). Liquid plant food will encourage strong growth now plant, plant,plant all the pretty spring seedlings on offer now and sow seeds for summer flowering to save on buying seedlings later in the year. Lawns, Lawns benefit greatly from an early spring feed of lawn fertiliser but this works best with rain to wash it in. Unfortunately too much soil is removed from new building sites these days which means clay is not as far down creating a solid moisture holding pan under soil. Gypsum ( soluble lime) will work on opening up clay without changing the ph of soil. Frosts will soon be over allowing new lawns to be sown, remember to sow seed thickly as annual weed seeds will be competing. Vegetables: Soil is warming with the sun filled days becoming longer, every plant is now coming to life for spring so heaps to do in the veg garden as you ready it for planting. Break up and rake clods to fine soil down for direct seed sowing. Get pumpkin, butternut and squash and corn seeds started now under protection until frost finish, they need a long warm growing season to grow and ripen. It's great to be planting salad veg again especially while there are still no white butterflies or aphids about. As an early season deterrent start spraying fish emulsion on both veg and flowering seedlings, this will feed the plants and repel pests by fooling them into thinking their favorite food is now protein not vegetable, repeat after rain. Get sprouted potatoes in the ground, when leaves appear start mounding over them to encourage leaves and stalks to grow longer producing more potatoes. Keep water up to rows during dry spells. Fruit: All deciduous fruit trees can still be planted in September while the plants are just coming out of dormancy . All fruits require a position in full sun, shelter from prevailing winds is preferable or a stake added for a couple of years until roots are well anchored. If leaf curl is a problem on young stone fruit trees, pull affected leaves off and destroy, new leaves take their place. Strawberries: Delicious strawberries are easy to grow in a home garden, as little as 25 plants can yield more than 50 pounds. Strawberries need at least six hours of direct sun daily and will do well with a dressing of feriliser specifically formulated with extra potassium, regular irrigation and slightly acidic soil and covering the bed in straw or pine needles will keep the weeds down and the fruit clean. All other berries on offer should be planted now to settle in to a season of fruiting. Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in North Otago September 1st 2020

Whew, A few days of drying winds and then what usually happens here in paradise rain fell and with it came freshness and a cold snap with frost to remind us we are only early into spring. Cherry blossom buds will be opening and magnolias taking center stage so bee's will be back in force on sunny days.  Winter sown spring seeds are up now so I am thinning and potting Pansy and dianthus which have shallow roots into deeper seed trays and those with longer deeper roots like lupin, hellebore and Oriental poppy into their own individual small root pot as it is best to have a well developed root ball attached before planting out into the garden. Baskets and pots can be thought about now, use only shallow rooted plants for baskets like pansy, primulas, and trailers like Virginia stock and dwarf sweet pea until it is warm enough to plant petunias, lobelia and begonia. Pots and baskets benefit from the addition of extra slow release fertiliser and water Chrystal's to keep them going,. Roots of what you want to plant will determine the size and depth of a pot or basket. Potted roses need a deep solid pot to help with  the heat of summer cooking roots,  potted, camellias, azaleas, hydrangeas and also small trees and shrubs also suffer from cooked roots in summer. By placing a shorter plastic pot inside a terra cotta or concrete pot will help keep roots cooler, interior plastic pots should have wide drainage holes and sit on a layer of gravel inside the bigger pot  leaving a three  inch gap at the top to spread mulch which can be a thick layer of gravel, stones, bark or even sheep wool.  All potted plants do best in a good heavy potting mix, excellent drainage plus a consistent supply of food and water. If a potted plant is left too dry for too long between  watering's it will never thrive or look lush and healthy. I looked around the garden for plants to make an edge to take place of where a row of lavender had been, I have new lavender plants now in this spot but they are as yet tiny so felt they needed something in front. I found just the thing, a large clump of lambs ear growing in a rockery which had doubled in size so dug half of it out and broke up into single plants, once they start to spread I will remove for the lavender to take it's place. Silver is a perfect shade to use as a break between strong and soft shades, will grow in sun or semi shade and lambs ear also has the added bonus of being an interesting texture. Hydrangeas here have now all been pruned, fuchsias can be pruned once they start showing new growth, they flower on new growth that's why growers cut them right back to encourage new fresh growth, so cut back all that straggly old wood. Dahlias, I am keeping a cover of pea straw on top of mine because I feel nothing will be happening with them until well into next month. Rose growth is well on now and we don't have to chase aphids ( green fly) yet but they will be about soon to settle on the top new growth, easily visible for you to dispose of by removing with finger and thumb. Leave spraying (if needed) until leaves are well grown and have hardened up a little. Weeds are taking off as well during those mild days, get them while small before they flower and make seed with a hoe on paths and driveways and pulling by had while soil is soft. There are organic weed sprays on the market that work best when weeds are small so now is the time, get them before they flower and make seed.    Lawns: Prepare ground for sowing new lawns here on the coast when the chill has left the ground, spring sowing should be thickly spread  thickly to beat annual weeds.  Once spring mowing starts again on existing lawns keep the mower blades up to allow grass to thicken as it comes back from dormancy, feed lawns just before or during rain and they will stay lush. Vegetables: Green crops can be dug in now, before they flower and get stringy. Here on the coast sow lettuce seed and plant lettuce plants and other leaf veg on offer now at two week intervals but protect from frost and birds while small.  Carrots and peas can go in but still too cold for parsnip, beans, corn, and the pumpkin family they all need warm soil to germinate. Broad beans sown in March  should be in flower looking for bees. Prepare ground for planting seed potatoes, if soil is too wet fork over adding compost to get air in to aid drying. Potatoes can rot if soil is cold and wet. Fruit: Buds are swelling to blossom burst as sap rises, what's needed now are sunny days and bee's.  Work on gooseberry  bushes now before leaves arrive, thin out middle branches and cut bottom skirt branches up to raise height making it so much easier to pick the fruit from underneath.   Strawberries are starting to move towards budding so will be looking for food, they need mulched with compost, old animal manure then straw or pine needles as a cover will do the trick. 

Gardening in North Otago August 25th 2020

Spring has begun, new magnolia blooms in Rockvale Garden.

SEPTEMBER, the month of new beginnings and this past week has convinced me that spring has arrived in North Otago after that lovely light rain to give gardens respite from the very dry winter we experienced. However while soil surface has benefited deeper roots are still searching for moisture while surface weed seeds will be germinating so get them with a hoe or there are organic weed sprays on the market that work best when weeds are new and small so now is the time, get them before they flower and make seed. With my very wide perennial boarders insisting on growing couch grass, biddy- bid, and chick-weed, I try to get rid of them now while the flowering plants are still low and with top soil now soft weed pulling is easy. While doing this weeding I can see what needs attention like delphiniums needing stakes in to give support while growing, removing mulch from around iris rhizomes and peony rose crowns and removing self sown plants and natives before they settle in. Everyday something new is happening in our garden, sweet peas, ranunculus, anemones and tulips are well up and putting on good growth. I am now watching what is pushing through pea straw and clearing a space to let them through and  light in.All plants, shrubs and trees will respond to feeding now,  the sap is well up and buds are swelling and bursting open. We have a number of deciduous magnolias here taking center stage right now, their beautiful blooms pushing through huge furry buds, also camellia's and rhododendrons are bursting into colour. Liquid feed all perennials and bedding plants and use a good general fertiliser plus a dressing of compost for trees and shrubs to help them along now. Azaleas and tulips are the exception, azaleas like fed after flowering and tulips store enough food in the bulb for their requirements, if you load them up with more they will grow more leaf than needed. (No feeding for Australian or South African shrubs such as leucodendron, protea, waratah and grevillea.) 

Cut the old growth from the cat-mint, I leave old growth on over the cold months to protect new growth, once new leaves are seen to be making good growth the old can be removed. It is also time to dress your garden for late spring and summer, think colour and where you want it and what colour is needed where. At this time of the year concentrate on the sunny areas in the garden being the warmest to get bedding pants moving. 

Roses: there are still roses on offer, they do not always need to grow together in a rose bed, use them as gap fillers in boarders. To give those new to roses an idea of what to look for I will list the different types below. There is a rose for every sunny situation and a few that will tolerate light shade. 

PATIO ROSES: About knee high for front boarder planting, about  80 cm apart when grouping, these can also be grown in containers as long as the roots are kept cool. 

FLORIABUNDA: Flowers grow in clusters - bushes grow to about waist high on average, space these about 1mtr apart when grouping. Cut off spent flower clusters and they will reward you with masses of colour right through the growing season. 

HYBRID TEA: This is the rose to give you the large exhibition one steam bloom. They grow about chest high. These are the picking rose and need feeding right through the growing season to give the best results. 

Miniture: A dwarf growing bush rose with all parts scaled down, I find these not as long lived as the larger bush rose. If you have one that is not performing, dig it out, change the soil and plant another. The secret to keeping roses free from disease is to remove all last years' diseased wood and leaves from the ground around them and burn. Feed well,  starting now while they are beginning to leaf. Manure enriched compost will feed and protect the roots but keep it off where the rose has been grafted. Rose food, fertilisers have been designed to promote just the right amount of leaf and flower growth, but need the warmer soil to activate. Don't waste by using too soon. 

Lawns are returning to growth, I was out with the lawn food during that soft rain to give them a good start.

Vegatables: green crops need to be dug in now, before flowering. Keep planting seeds and seedlings in the absence of white butterfly! Fruit: Buds are swelling to blossom burst as sap rises, what's needed now are sunny days and bee's. I worked on my gooseberry bushes last year and again this week,Thinning branches before the leaves arrive, cutting up the bottom branches to get the bushes higher from the ground making it easier to pick the fruit from beneath.

 Cheers, Linda.

New rose growth needs feed.

Gardening in North Otago August 19th 2020

Early Spring at Rockvale Gardens 

 So far still no rain as I write this meaning we are going into spring very, very dry as all Farmers and Gardeners will know. In the garden hoses need to be on the go, a good soak around the roots of trees and shrubs is more beneficial than sprinklers on for short times. Mulching after soaking holds moisture there where needed. Everything is ready to push new growth out right now which uses a huge amount of new growing plant energy requiring feeding as well as moisture but compost/manure will not get to where it is needed without rain.

If we do get our share of rain in early spring the benefits from good deep moisture will be obvious from now through to early summer.  This week I have been doing the final winter clean up around the gardens I don't mulch with pea straw.,these gardens get a covering of the lovely black compost we get each year from the Pukeuri freezing works, which allows the spring bulbs to push through and take center stage for the next couple of months. I do have pea straw in other areas where bulbs are growing and now that I can see where they are popping up I push the straw away from them to give them light. It is at this time of the year I notice yellowing of some plants, the ground gets depleted of nitrogen during winter especially when plants are shallow rooted like camellia and rhododendrons, and potted plants with roots out grown containers. With applications of complete plant food and compost this condition will be rectified. Plant specific slow release fertilisers on offer make it easy to choose the right one and each time it rains or you water the garden food is released to plants. If you have not trimmed back ornamental grass's yet do it now, rake out the old seeded ends and clean out the dead thatch around the base, it's amazing how much you will need to cart away after this but they will look wonderful and will grow back to their soft wafting shape in no time.  I'll bet the weeds are growing well at your place as they are at mine! sprayers will be out again on patio areas and driveways. With the ground being so soft hand and hoe weeding is really easy, get them out before they take off and seed everywhere, or dig them in before they seed. 

Lawns After frosts moss will be thriving in lawns, pathways and garden structures. I have been working my way around the garden seating and ornamental pots and statues with soapy water and a firm brush. Moss in lawns as I wrote last week is taken care of with sulphate of iron watered on then raked off when black. Moss on path and driveways can be killed by using inexpensive laundry powder sprinkled on and wet with a light hosing to get it working.

Grass is showing growth now so the first feed can be given and watered in.

Vegetables:  Here on the coast get spring sewing's off to an early start now, use a row of cloches if you have them or drape frost cloth which will be in place for late frosts and also keep the birds off.

Fruit: with fruit trees being well budded up and starting to blossom a soak and mulch will help them with the growing they have ahead of them. 

Fruit trees: Do not like to compete with grass and weeds growing hard up against trunks, clear and mulch and your fruit trees will reward you. Some sunny days are needed now for bees to come out to pollinate. If you spray choose a dull day when bees are not about. Lemon bushes have been producing wonderfully through the dry winter so a good soak and a feeding of citrus food will be in order going into spring.

Cheers, Linda