Gardening in Waitaki

Gardening in Waitaki
Weekly garden blog

Tuesday, May 18, 2021

Gardening in Waitaki May 19th 2021

Well those frost's were sprung on us after those lovely mellow autumn days, out came the winter woolies and in came the fire wood. Frost happening now is normal for gardens, as the days shorten and the cold sets in, many plants become “hardened”. Water is pumped out of plant cells into the roots and any remaining sap, which is a sugary solution, often acts as antifreeze. Trees shed their thin, flat leaves each autumn to reduce water loss. Evergreen trees and shrubs with waxy, needle-like leaves (pine, spruce, fir) or tough, broad waxy leaves (holly, magnolia) are more resistant to the cold and moisture loss. Plants can also modify their life cycles to deal with the changing seasons and lack of moisture. No tree or shrub roots survive if subjected to consistently wet frozen ground, good drainage is a must for healthy root growth. Bearded Iris rhizomes and freesia bulbs need to be exposed to bake in the sun so compost and mulch can be kept off them. Shifting bigger shrubs that were wrenched earlier in the year can be lifted now and transplanted. Some gardens get carried and try to out grow the size allotted to them!! shrubs I planted and thought at the time I could keep shaped to fit the space but after a while I get fed up with trying to keep them the right size, they are wrenched by digging around one half of the roots adding mulch to the damaged root for new feeder roots to grow into. Lifting of the tree or shrub can be done a few months later and given a ride in the wheel barrow to be trans planted. Complete new garden rooms can be created by shifting tall front plantings to the back which opens a garden up allowing room in the front to be edged and graveled for the placing of seating or may be a statue or large ornate pot. Don't hesitate in reducing the height and width of trees and shrubs, it is essential if garden space is limited, if only to let more light on to lower growing plants. This is a great time to make new perennial beds or re-organise existing beds. Perennial clumps increase in size annually and soon over take a space. Lift overgrown or stagnant clumps, break up and replant some of the youngest growths from the perimeter. Healthy vigorous plants can be reduced by putting a sharp spade in where you would like a reduction then lift the cut portions out without disturbing the original plant. I have done this with asters, phlox, aurbretia, small grass's, hosta's, and herbs like sage, thyme and lemon balm. Rockery plants can be divided now as well. Once plants have been sectioned and rearranged cover the bed and around plants with compost which will encourage new root growth and help keep the perennial bed warmer through the colder months to come. Lilies, this is the main time to shift or divide old over grown clumps of lilies. Be careful not to break the fleshy scales and to retain all the basal roots. Don't pull the old steams away from the bulb as it leaves a hole where water can enter and cause rot, just cut old stems short and bend, never allow Lilly bulbs to dry out while out of the ground. I plant lilies on a little river sand and cover with compost which has had blood and bone added. Vegetables and fruit . Continue planting strawberry plants, raising the beds where drainage is suspect and adding manure rich compost to the beds. Garlic, such a used ingredient in today's cooking. Garlic cloves should be in Garden centers now, It is said to plant garlic on the shortest day but any time from late May until August is ok. Select large single cloves (plant point up) 5cm deep and 20cm apart in warm, well-drained sites where soil has been recently limed. Do not cover garlic beds with thick mulch because it keeps moisture around cloves encouraging rot. Start pruning pip fruit trees any time after the leaves have fallen, remove dead or damaged wood, crossing or inward turning branches, excess leaders or sucker growth developing on the main trunks. Shorten back vigorous leaders by about a 1/3 to promote branching. Prune long side branches back to a weak twig to discourage further spread.
Cheers, Linda

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