Gardening in Waitaki December 1st 2021

Dead heading roses.

It's dead heading roses time again, I have been laying the rose petals out on a trestle table to dry for potpourri. The fragrance as they dry is wonderful, It is 6 weeks from cut to new bud at this time of the year. I have found old hellebore leaves that had not been removed, absolutely loaded in green fly!! Cut every last one out and dispose of them so green fly do not fly off onto your waiting roses. It is so important right now to keep the water up to roses, constant feeding and deep soaking at the roots will keep them healthy and not in need of spraying. A rose that is struggling will be susceptible to everything bad. Night beetles are on the wing again, newly planted young trees are the worst targeted, they can strip leaves right off, If this happens don't be alarmed because another lot of leaves will grow. Night beetles usually sleep through the day under a tree they are feeding on and you will not notice the leaves striped from the top new growth of established trees so nothing needs to be done about the night beetles on these. Flag iris have flowered now so large clumps can be broken up and transplanted in a sunny spot. Prepare the bed by digging in fresh compost and some lime then plant, leaving half the rhizome (root) exposed to bake in the sun over summer. Long leaves can be cut half way back to reduce transpiration while reestablishing.　 While you can still see where spring bulbs have been cover them with mulch to stop them drying out over summer, Weed free compost is fine then you can plant annuals on top to fill gaps. If large clumps of bulbs flowered poorly this is a good time to break them up and plant out into smaller groups using fresh compost to give them a good start. \Montana clematis has finished flowering but wait a little longer before trimming back because they have not finished their new growth spurt, if you trim now you will have to do it all over again in a couple of weeks. However wisterias can be dealt to now, if your wisteria has nice strong flowering hard wood branches that flower well then no more will be required, remove all the new long trailers, most of these if left will in time grow into hard wood branches. A wisteria is like a climbing tree and will take over and out grow it's place in no time and become very heavy if you let too many leaders grow. Lawns: will be suffering with new growth being scorched in heat, keep the mower blade up a little higher and mow in the cooler part of the day to help with recovery, mow without the catcher sometimes and give deep watering's rather than a light sprinkle. New lawns will need feeding and water kept up to help them to strengthen enough to cope with this summer. If spraying lawn weeds add liquid fertiliser and feed the grass at the same time, don't use sprayed grass clippings around the garden or in compost, spray containers have printed information on how long the with holding time is. Herbs: Culinary herbs are the original cut-and-come-again crop, if you grow them get snipping and picking. The plants really will benefit from it, and you'll have wonderful flavours to add when cooking. Most herbs and leafy plants naturally want to create seeds, and once they get to that stage, it means the end of a herb like parsley, chives or basil. So pick leaves early and often to encourage the plant to put out more foliage and prevent it from running to seed. It may be cheating Nature but it extends the life of your plants and gives you handfuls of herbs to enjoy, pick bunch, hang, dry then store in glass jars. Vegetables: Don't feed leaf veg now or have the soil too rich, they will put out too much soft growth and bolt, all that is needed is moisture when dry. I am experimenting with some plant concoctions to keep the white butterfly and aphids away. Organic bug spray 1/2 cup hot peppers, diced 6 cloves garlic, peeled 2 cups water Blast in a food processor, strain, add 2 teaspoons liquid soap (without bleach) Fill a plastic spray bottle and mist spray affected plants. Cheers, Linda.

Hanging fresh herbs to dry.

Gardening in Waitaki 23rd November 2021

What great spring weather, rain during nights and warmth during most days, I can almost see and hear plants growing. It is time to concentrate on the next stage of spring now, roses, peony roses, delphiniums, begonias, hydrangeas and lots of other beautiful happenings soon make us forget about spring bulbs and blossoms. Roses: Keep an eye on new rose growth, try to go a season giving them plenty of nurishment, folia and around roots to avoid spraying. If leaves develop black spot or rust, remove and destroy them before they fall to the ground. Keep food up during the flowering seasons as it's hungry roses that are more susceptible to disease. Spring bulbs and for-get-me-nots have finished flowering, tie a knot in the leaves of bulb growth rather than cut them off yet as they need to take all the top green into storage. Tulips collapse quickly and can be dug up and stored in a dry place until planting out again in May next year. Blue bells need to be left to seed if you want them to spread. They increase in the bulb but also seed successfully. I cut forget- me -not's back because they can grow back fresh green leaves and sit in nice clumps until they flower again next spring. Keep the water up to Lilies, they are making rapid growth now and the ground they are in must never dry out, stake them now before they become too heavy. Bougainvillea: If you have a bougainvillea, right now is the time to really get the water into it along with some all purpose fertiliser (not slow release) to simulate a rainy season. Once this has been done and your plant is established do not water or feed it again, they do the best flowering when they are stressed. A newly planted bougainvillea will need watered now and then to get it established but NO food, if fed often they put out leaf than those lovely coloured bracts. I have been spraying weeds again, germination from the first lot of spring weed seeds would probably have blown in on the wind, spraying will be an every three week job from now on. There are a number of organic weed sprays available, these need to be sprayed on weeds when they are small at the hottest time of the day. As I have mentioned before, the most economical weed control for small areas is good old common table salt, purchased in bulk or in kilo bags at agricultural outlets. Use it at the rate of 240 grams (about 12 heaped tablespoons) to a litre of warm or hot water to dissolve it, then spray on the foliage of weeds when conditions are dry and sunny . This works very fast on annual weeds but perennials probably needing a further salt treatment. If spraying only the foliage, at the above rates, there will be little residual damage done to soil. To make absolutely sure, give the area a good watering after the weeds have died. Lawns Lawn mowers will be mowing flat out everywhere with all this lush growth, compost bins will have been treated to many full catchers. Spray out the lawn weeds now which means clippings will need to be spread in areas where plants will not be affected by the contamination. On lawns where there are just a few flat weeds spot spray. Never spot spray weeds on lawns with anything other than a lawn weed spray which will not affect the surrounding grass. I have seen disastrous results where normal weed spray has been used to spot spray lawns which has leached from the weed into the grass leaving bald patches everywhere that need to be re-sown with grass seed. Vegetables: Keep mounding potatoes to encourage growing shoots and tuber development, mound until leaf and stalk are approximately 300 mm tall. Consistent watering is important for potatoes and all root vegetables so we should have some good crops after the rain we have had. Leafy veg tends to run to seed during hot days so no extra feeding to help them do this. Keep pumpkin, squash and zucchini plants mulched, their roots are fragile until their large leaves grow to create the root shade needed. Plant dwarf and climbing beans, home garden beans will give heavy crops to fill bags for the freezer. Orchard: Water needs to be kept up to fruit bushes and trees, strong winds tend to thin out over abundant fruit bunches on trees and birds are in waiting for fruit bushes to ripen, a net cover before this happens will keep fruit on until picked. Mulch fruit trees and bushes to retain moisture while fruit is swelling. Cheers, Linda

Gardening in Waitaki November 16th 2021

How wonderful the soft, soaking rain has been on gardens here in Waitaki....... and then we got the wind ! Dividing clumps of perennials that have finished flowering can be done now, violas, primulas, polyanthus, iris, helleborus, ground cover phlox, scabiosa, Solomon’s seal, any perennials that have out grown their spot in your garden can be divided. Just dig up part of a large clump and basically pull it to bits planting sections with roots into pots, by the start of next winter the small pots will be filled with roots, new leaves and buds ready to be planted out. There is also time to divide agapanthus, large and dwarf varieties. they can get a clump bound which reduces their flowering. Dig out the whole clump (if it is still manageable enough to do this), then pull off smaller root balls and plant out on their own using fresh compost to get the roots going again. Agapanthus are great gap fillers in new gardens, they can always be removed as you fill your garden with permanent plants. Weeds are starting to make seeds, get them out before they do, most are easy to pull when grown a bit. Some Gardeners could be battling with convolvulus, the only thing you can do now that gardens are full is pull it off plants and think about getting stuck in and digging out every root next winter while the garden sleeps. I found spraying will work on top growth but not the network of white roots below the top soil. If you have, or can get hold of some aged compost that has finished working, ready to put on the garden you will be able to make compost tea. Compost Tea is a nutritionally rich, well-balanced, organic plant food made by steeping aged compost in water. The water is then diluted and used as a root / or foliar feed. It is also noted for its ability to control various plant diseases (blights, molds, wilts, etc. when used as a foliar spray), to repel and control insect pests and their damage when used on a regular basis, and encourage the growth of beneficial soil bacteria which results in healthier, more stress-tolerant plants. The basic recipe most often recommended is as follows: 1 large container with lid (plastic rubbish bin works well) aged, completed compost to fill an old pillow case 1/2-3/4 full. Fill the container with water, place the compost filled pillowcase, tie off the top and submerge in the container of water. Cover (to prevent odor and insect problems) and let steep for a MINIMUM of 2 weeks. This steeping time is crucial to the formation of beneficial bacteria and the required fermentation process. When finished, dip out the tea and dilute (3 parts water to 1 part tea) and use weekly as root or folia food for all plants. The following factors will determine the quality of the finished tea: Use well-aged, finished compost - Fresh compost can burn the plants or contain harmful pathogens and compost past its best will be nutritionally deficient. If using purchased compost it should contain a portion of aged animal manure which apparently remains active longer than compost made up only of plant matter. Dilute it a little more when using on young seedlings. (It is important to note that COMPOST TEA AND MANURE TEA ARE NOT THE SAME THING. Manure tea can be made in the same way but is not generally recommended as foliar spray and is not as nutritionally well-balanced, I find roses do well when applied around roots. Time to start spraying roses for green fly and disease if you have not already started. Shield takes care of both if you follow the instructions and spray at the suggested intervals. Keep the food up as they flower, it's hungry roses that are more susceptible to disease. Slow release rose fertiliser will feed each time you water. Fruit: Keep moisture up to fruiting bushes, they grow fast and need moisture to full out and ripen. Strawberries are beginning to make fruit so cover from birds. Vegetables: Keep mounding potatoes to keep them producing more and more new potatoes for Christmas, consistent watering is important for potatoes now, this goes for all root vegetables. Leafy veg don't need any extra feeding at this time of the year it will just encourage them to bolt. Plant only as many seedling plants you think you would use when ready and hold back in a shady spot other small seedling plants from the same batch until needed. Keep pumpkin and squash plants mulched, their roots are fragile until their large leaves grow to create the root shade needed. All new small seedling plants can be over watered to the point where their roots cannot cope so will collapse, the soil should be dry on top between watering's and good drainage is essential . It's Elderflower flowering time again, I make elderflower cordial every spring it is a lovely floral drink as is with water or a splash in gin and tonic. Elderflower cordial: Ingredients: 20 large elderflower heads, 4 lemons, 1 tsp citric acid, 1.5 liters water, 1kg sugar. Method; Grate zest off lemons, then roughly chop into chunks. Gently wash the flowers and steep them in a bowl with water, add this to the flower head mixture. Cover and leave for 24 hours, then strain through muslin. gently bring the strained liquid to the boil, add sugar and stir until dissolved. Pour into sterilized glass bottles and store in the fridge when cool. Cheers, Linda

Gardening in Waitaki 9th November 2021

How warm and calm days have been over the weekend and so far this week, such a pleasure to be gardening. Annual flowering plants are what will take over from all the glorious rhododendron and azalea colours to brighten a summer garden. You have so many choices. Bedding plants grow and flower for summer and sometimes through to autumn, then finish and go to seed. If left seeds will ripen for you to collect and save to sow next spring. There are annuals that flower at a low, medium and tall height and sun or shade for you to plan a wonderful show. For new Gardeners flowering perennials are the plants that stay in the garden growing and increase in size to be broken up when required. In my early years of gardening trying to grow plants regardless of preferred conditions, thinking as long as I kept the water up and protected them through the winter I could beat nature BUT I finally gave up, it's a waste of time and money nursing plants that need a warmer climate and more rain than we have here. Plants like hibiscus, banana, gardenia, palms, anything that requires a tropical seasonal rain is going to struggle. However bougainvillea is growing here on the coast, I had a lovely one in my past garden which became a talking point every summer, but some years the frost really knocked it back. Read plant labels and make sure that our conditions are right for plants here, for example there are some lovely pelargoniums for sale now but I never got one to survive the winter in my past Weston garden. However I see them growing well on the south hill where the frosts are not so harsh so I guess it's a matter of looking at what is growing well in gardens close to you and knowing that the same plants will do well in your garden. Fruit: Keep water up to fruit bushes during dry periods, I see gooseberries are forming, they plump up to a point where birds enjoy them before we think they are ready so it pays to cover them from birds as you do strawberries. Vegetables: Keep mounding potatoes to give depth for them to produce, consistent watering is important for potatoes, this goes for all root vegetables. Leafy veg don't need any extra feeding at this time of the year it will just encourage them to bolt. Only plant as many plants as you think you would use when ready to pick, hold back the other small seedling plants from the same batch and keep in a semi shady place until required for planting. The small plants will hold if watered only when too dry, over watering will encourage rot . Keep pumpkin and squash plants mulched, roots are fragile until their large leaves grow to create the root shade needed. Corn seeds sown last month are now ready to plant out, planting corn in squares rather than rows will ensure pollination on the lower tassels and add support during strong winds. Tomatoes are romping away now, get stakes and strings ready for support and pinch out side shoots. Don't water tomatoes late in the day, leaves must be dry going into the night to avoid fungus problems. Planting marigolds to grow along side tomatoes is thought to discourage white fly and basil growing along side will improve tomatoes flavor. Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in Waitaki November 2nd 2021

The lovely RSA garden Oamaru

Some settled spring days, warm sun and spring rain to keep gardens fresh. Rhododendrons, azalea's,and peony roses are still putting on their show as we look forward to the expectation of something new happening every day in the garden but once again Gardeners will be pulling sticky, biddy-bid, chick weed and convolvulus, and every year there seems to be just as much as the year before! Convolvulus is the worst, the only way to completely eradicate convolvulus is to dig out the mass of roots below. These roots are easily identified; they are thick, white and long, it is so satisfying to pull a length right out without it breaking. Every little bit of root left behind will grow very fast. Hydrangeas are well leafed up now with flower buds forming for a summer show, if you have not mulched with manure enriched compost do it now and they will reward you well. Rose buds are fattening, getting ready to take over the glorious blooming happening right now with rhododendrons and azaleas in Waitaki gardens, such a pretty time of the year. Trim spent flowers from perennials and daisy bushes as they finish the first flush of flowering to keep them bushy and continuously in flower, if you let flower heads go to seed the bush or plants will become woody. Trim flowers from helleborus (winter rose) before they ripen then drop seed. Box hedges should have put out a good amount of new growth now so all new growth can be trimmed back to the last cut on established hedges. On new plantings even up only the top growth leaving the sides to grow together. Trimming is best on an overcast day to limit the amount of sun scorching that will happen. When planting a new buxus hedge 5 to 7 plants per metre for small plants. All other hedges can be trimmed when finally  finished putting out spring growth.  Lawns: With soil warming earlier this spring there should be excellent results from grass seed sown, to repair winter damage, rake out bare patches, add sifted soil and plant grass seed. Small patches can be covered with shade or frost cloth to keep birds off until seed has germinated. Keep lawn mower blades higher while grass is lush to shade roots and we are still getting dew which settles on longer grass keeping ground from drying out. Veg: A good no fuss way to grow veg is in a no dig garden. Making a no dig garden: Find a sunny spot on bare ground,( not concrete) surround with sleepers, logs, Oamaru stone or boards high enough to hold layers of manure, soil, compost and straw. Flood the dirt before you start to get dampness deep down. If you plan to create a no dig garden on top of grass or a space that has been growing then you will need to cover the ground with layers of saturated newspaper or cardboard, overlapping to stop strong weeds pushing through. First layer manure, (soak) this will bring the worms up, then spread a thick layer of compost, old leaf mulch and dried grass clippings, (soak.) Next add a layer of soil, (clay soil is fine in this layer), water well after each layer leaving no dry spots. Next add a layer of straw, (soak) then add more layers of compost, old leaf mulch and dried grass clippings, (soak) and top that with more soil, (soak). As you build layers, river sand, a little lime and an all purpose fertiliser can be added. Lastly add a top layer of straw to suppress weeds. When you think the garden is high enough, start planting and you should be eating your own produce within six weeks at this time of the year. Fruit: With the warmth experienced this spring and bee's doing their job berry fruits are romping along. Water is important while fruit is forming especially after the wind, a good soak from time to time if rain is scarce will ensure full juicy fruit. Grapes will be flowering, give only the vines you think could do with a boost fertiliser in early spring, feeding established vines that are doing ok will only encourage more leaves and leaders. A little potash from time to time will help with fruiting.   Codling moth: I have come across another method of dealing with codling moths which is said to have worked well for some. Use a plastic milk container, and place in it 1 banana peel, 1 cup vinegar and 1 cup sugar. Fill the container almost full of water, replace the cap and shake it well to mix and dissolve the contents. Remove the cap and firmly secure one container into each apple tree. The moths are attracted to the scent of the concoction, becoming trapped and drowned when they investigate. Refill with water as needed throughout the summer.   Cheers, Linda.

No dig garden.