Brrrrr, A very wintery week to start the new month, the soaking rain can only be good in the long run for North Otago before spring.Bulbs that shot up during those warmer days will continue to head for an early spring display but the cold temperatures now will hold buds and have a noticeable effect on soft new growth. However rhododendron Christmas cheer and prunus autumnalis are in full flower and the fragrance from winter sweet, witch hazel, Daphne, boronia and violets wafting about gardens make them a joy to work in, cold fingers and all.
This is a time to plan a spring, early summer picking garden and shift and feed existing plants. I am liquid-feeding annuals and perennials that have been nursed through winter, folia feeding will help all new leaf, budding, and flowering plants as roots are starting to take in nutrients to plump up buds.
This week I have noticed nice fat buds opening on the stems of my hydrangeas so I have pruned the more sheltered bushes but left the more exposed a little longer. Prune only those stems that have flowered, cut at an outward-facing bud at the second bud from the bottom, and leave all other stems because these are the flowers for this year. Spread old stable manure around the drip line and once again a reminder, it is a dressing of lime for pink flowers and aluminum sulphate for blue, White never changes, but are best planted in light shade. The use of coffee grinds, grass clippings, or pine needles spread around the drip line can help to lower the PH of pink hydrangeas and encourage them into shades of purple. I have found I can pull rooted branches from the base of big old gnarly hydrangea bushes, these take a few years to bush up but it is a sure way to replicate a special one.
While raking out the last of autumn leaves that had blown under shrubs I come across branches from shrubs laid down in soil-forming roots, viburnum, choisya, camellia, and hydrangeas. This can also be purposely done at the beginning of spring by pegging branches down into the soil, roots should develop at the point covered with soil. Making a small wound on the portion of the stem that is to be buried will help stimulate root development.
Remove rain-filled saucers from the bottom of plant pots for drainage and to stop roots from freezing.
Cut the old growth from peony roses now and destroy them, disease can winter over on last year's stems but be careful not to knock the new pink shoots emerging from the tubers. Cut the old growth from dahlias now as well, if thick and tubular bend the cut stalk over to prevent rainwater from building up inside which will lead to rot in a tuber.
Remove soil from bearded iris rhizomes, they need to be partially exposed to give the best flowering.
With roses making a move to budding up they will be taking in food, powdered rose food needs watered in around the drip line, slow-release fertiliser will work each time it rains, keeping manure away from rose crowns. Trees and Roses are still available in Garden Centres,
If you think your garden is too small for trees, I have seen dwarf Peach and Nectarine Trees on offer, if you need a little tree growing to a width and height of 1.5 meters to add height to a part of your garden why not have one that blossoms beautifully and then gives you fruit.
Vegetables: The veg I have in are holding well despite the weather extremes, frosty areas inland can make a start now by adding some compost and a little lime in readiness for when you plant out later this month.
Fruit: Prune newly planted fruit trees, this is probably the hardest cut you’ll make, but the most important. Cut a new tree at about hip height, do this whether you want a vase shape or a single leader. If the main branches start here they’ll be reachable when fully grown. Let's hope we don't get too many dull overcast days by the time fruit trees blossom, we need those wonderful bees to come out and set to work pollinating.
Cheers, Linda
Dwarf fruit trees.
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