Gardening in Waitaki Nov 1st 2025

And now it is almost November, this spring is proving to be a challenge weather-wise, with much-needed rain arriving alongside a bitterly cold spell. Those relentless winds were hard on flowering cherries; sadly, they couldn’t hold their blossom for long, but things will move now because November really is when the garden comes alive. Roses and peonies are nearly ready for their grand display, stepping in to take over from the camellias, rhododendrons, viburnums, lilacs, and azaleas. Forget-me-nots are also finishing their show; instead of pulling them out, cut them back hard, and they’ll quickly green up to form neat summer clumps, flowering again next spring. Irises are pushing through thick buds now. Remove any mulch from around the rhizomes so they can bask in the sun; I always admire drifts of iris planted en masse, though most town gardens don’t have space for letting irises take over ground that will only hold them. Dahlias: I have had to protect my new dahlia growth from late frost, which blackened leaves. Thankfully, the tubas sent up new leaves, so the protection will go on until frosts are no more. With tulips and other spring bulbs dying back, resist the urge to tidy too soon; let the green tops wither naturally to feed the bulbs for next year. Push or twist them out of sight under shrubs until they lose vigour. If you like to remove and store them, this can be done now, but leave green tops on to die back. Now is the time to plan your summer colour. Try cosmos, marigolds, petunias, bedding dahlias and blue salvias to fill gaps where bulbs have finished. Cat-mint is starting to show its first flush of colour; it’s a pretty edging plant that can be cut back after flowering to bloom again later. If dividing, pull off rooted sections from the main clump, pot them up, and grow them on for new garden edging elsewhere. Keep trimming spent blooms from perennials and daisy bushes to encourage bushy growth and continuous flowering; allowing them to seed will only make them woody. Chrysanthemums and perennial asters can be shortened back now to prevent them from growing too tall and flopping over later; they’ll still flower at summer’s end. Chrysanthemum tips can be placed in river sand to root for new plants. Hedges: Hold off trimming soft new growth until it has firmed later in the month, especially on box hedges, as cutting too early only encourages more tender regrowth. Viburnum and lonicera hedges, however, can be shaped now, and all soft trimmings make excellent additions to the compost or garden mulch. Lawns: Grass, grass, grass, so much mowing! If you haven’t sprayed for weeds, you can spread your clippings lightly around the garden as humus, just not in thick piles. Spread evenly so they break down quickly. With soil now warm, re-sown patches from moss or grass grub damage will establish quickly if kept moist and protected from birds; shade cloth works well until the seed germinates. Vegetable: Growth will take off now after the rain. Potatoes should be ready for mounding, root crops for thinning, and leafy vegetables will run to seed quickly from now on. Young broad bean plants may have been deformed by wind, but mine, already in flower, are showing no sign of rust or aphids. The soil is warm enough now for runner and French beans, corn, tomatoes, cucumbers, and all members of the pumpkin family. If you’re keen to expand your food garden, now is the perfect time to make a no-dig bed. Choose a sunny spot on bare soil and layer materials: dampened newspaper, manure, compost, leaf mulch, straw, and soil. Water between each layer, finishing with straw on top to suppress weeds and deter slugs. Within six weeks, you’ll be harvesting fresh produce, and the soil beneath will teem with worms and life. Fruit trees and berry bushes will start thriving now, as long as the bees were able to stand up to the winds for their pollinating job. Mulch generously around the drip line of all fruiting plants to conserve moisture as fruit forms. A sprinkle of potash around the base helps promote flowering and fruiting. Cheers, Linda

Gardening in Waitaki September 21st 2025

Spring garden magic is being blown into full swing here in Waitaki with the consistent wind we are experiencing, making gardening almost impossible, but Spring is the time to get planting and there’s so much on offer now: tubers, bulbs, bedding plants, shrubs, and trees all waiting to be chosen and settled in when the winds die down. When buying punnets of young plants, remember to harden them before planting. Leave them outside for a few nights in a sheltered spot so they get used to the changeable spring weather and cool nights. Put stakes in now for delphiniums, peonies, asters, and tall phlox before they shoot too high. Weeds are racing ahead now, so get the hoe moving! Pull them before they seed—blink and they’ll be ankle-high. Planting annuals into exposed soil helps crowd out weeds before they take hold. Sweetpeas: I absolutely love sweet peas, and the early plantings that sat over winter will already be rewarding with buds. I plant more amongst those already in bud to scramble up behind lower plantings. Sweetpeas are gross feeders, so when planting a trench filled with well-rotted animal manure beneath the soil will keep them growing longer. Lavenders are making new growth. They appreciate a dusting of lime to sweeten the soil. If they’re looking scruffy, trim them now; they’ll soon freshen up and bud again. Replace any woody, yellowing plants as lavenders don’t last forever. Fuchsias: Coastal gardeners can cut back fuchsias now that they’re pushing out new leaves. They flower on new growth, so prune to the height where you’d like them to bloom. They prefer afternoon shade, moist soil, and regular feeding through the season. Roses: Keep an eye on rose tips for greenfly during mild days—tiny hatchlings cluster at the tips of new growth. A quick pinch between finger and thumb saves the need for spraying. Roses are hungry now, so feed them well—old stable manure or the pig-and-sawdust mix from the Recycling Centre spread around (not against) the base will keep them healthy and blooming. If you have a bougainvillea, trim away any frost-damaged wood now that new shoots are appearing. To encourage flowering, water heavily once at the start of next month to mimic its natural rainy season, then hold back the water as stress encourages blooms over leaf growth. Blossom and Trees: Spring is the perfect time to choose the blossom tree you’d like for your garden. Take a photo of the tree to the garden centre for identification and advice. Remember, blossoms are fleeting, so consider the shade the tree will cast and its mature height and spread. Some Prunus varieties can grow very large with spreading roots, so think carefully about placement—especially near driveways or paved areas, where falling petals and leaves can be slippery. A tall-grafted tree (around 1.8m before branching) gives good clearance for paths and drives, while lower grafts suit garden borders. There truly is a tree for every spot; it’s just a matter of matching size and shape to your space. Trees bought now will not appreciate being planted during strong winds, so hold off planting and make sure you have sturdy stakes on hand to put in place when Worms: New gardens often lack worms, but here’s a trick that works beautifully: half-fill a fertiliser bag with fresh cow or horse manure and leave it sitting on soil or grass for several weeks. The manure moisture seeps into the ground, attracting worms. When you lift the bag, you’ll find a thriving population beneath! Tiger worms from worm farms don’t survive long in open gardens because they stay near the surface and become bird food, so it’s best to encourage your local garden worms naturally. Lawns: With lawns growing again, any winter damage will now be showing. Rake out damaged patches, rough up the soil, and spread a layer of clean, sifted topsoil before sowing new seed. If birds are an issue, cover each patch with shade cloth until the seed germinates. Vegetables: Keep planting your vegetables now for summer and Christmas harvests. Here on the coast, plant lettuce every two weeks for a steady supply, and pop seed potatoes into any spare ground. Corn and pumpkin need a long growing season. Start them in punnets and keep them sheltered until warmer, non-windy days arrive. In my new raised bed, the clay soil has been cloddy, but layering compost on top now will invite worms to do the hard work over spring and summer. During winter, I grew a green crop, which helped, and each season, the soil will only get better. Fruit: Strawberries are moving towards flowering; give them a mulch of compost now to grow into. Bees are busy pollinating the flowers, so put the sprays away, let nature do the work and look forward to bumper crops. If your blackcurrants haven’t been pruned yet, do it right away; fruit forms on young wood, so remove older canes and keep six to ten strong new shoots. For red and white currants, which fruit on older wood, take out diseased or very old branches, then shorten new growth to two buds in early summer to keep them compact. Cheers, Linda

Gardening in Waitaki October 14th 2025

Such beauty throughout North Otago — blossom, new growth, and colour everywhere despite dry winds and late chills, then that lovely rain. A little time spent now feeding, weeding, and planning new plantings will pay off in the months ahead. Weeds and Early Maintenance: Weeds are racing away now, so tackle them while they’re young. Remove biddy-bid, chickweed, convolvulus, couch grass, dandelion and other annuals before they run to seed, or you’ll be chasing them all summer. It’s a good time to use organic weed sprays — but only on still days, as roses and other sensitive plants can be damaged even by a drift of spray. Flowering Plants and Shrubs: Keep deadheading and feeding pansies and polyanthus, they’ll keep flowering while there’s still a chill in the air. Once they’ve finished, cut them back and move to a cool, shady spot until next year’s late Autumn planting. Look critically at your shrubs; many will have quietly outgrown their spaces. Removing just one or two tall or tired shrubs can transform a garden, opening new planting areas. In one of my past borders, removing two old shrubs allowed room for a new maple and a drift of bluebells, and what a difference it made. Roses: Late frosts can catch the soft new rose growth, but don’t panic, leaves recover quickly, and new buds will follow within six weeks. As the weather warms, avoid evening watering on foliage to reduce mildew. Feed regularly; hungry roses are the first to get diseased. A slow-release fertiliser and a mulch of manure-enriched compost now will boost summer-flowering roses and shrubs alike. Seedlings and Companion Planting: Seeds sown will be popping up fast — sunflowers, cosmos, larkspur, nasturtium, marigolds, lupins, godetia, and delphiniums all do well if grown on in pots until they have strong roots before planting out. Small seedlings planted too soon often fall victim to slugs or simply wither. Strong growers like sunflowers and delphiniums can go straight into peat pots and be planted pot-and-all later; roots grow through as the pot breaks down. Slugs and snails are active now; a thick mulch of sharp wood chips can help deter slugs around young plants. This is a great time to consider companion planting: Marigolds and tagetes repel aphids and attract hoverflies, beneficial predators. Nasturtiums lure caterpillars away from brassicas. Garlic, chives, and parsley near roses deter aphids. Dill attracts bees; plant it with corn for better pollination. Basil planted among tomatoes helps repel whitefly and is, of course, delicious alongside tomatoes on a plate. Vegetable Garden: Potatoes should be well up. Keep mounding over them to keep light from the potatoes as they increase in size. Pumpkin, squash, corn, courgette and salad crops can all be sown now. If buying seedlings, harden them off in a sheltered spot before planting out. Carrot fly is active this month: To avoid damage, cover rows; frost cloth works well. First flight: Begins in October and continues through November into early December. Second flight: Often occurs in late January to March (mid-–late summer). Adults lay eggs again, and larvae feed on older roots. Never leave carrot thinnings lying nearby to attract them. A sprinkle of unsprayed grass clippings along the rows can help disguise the carrot scent. Glasshouse and Tomatoes: Tomato season is here! Glasshouses and tunnel houses will soon be full, but if you lack one, tomatoes grow happily in containers on a sunny deck or patio. Choose smaller types such as Red Robin, Russian Red, Totem, or Tumbling Tom for hanging baskets. Use a tomato mix, water regularly, and liquid feed fortnightly. Fruit trees in blossom need consistent moisture and mulch to support their workload ahead. A ring of unsprayed grass clippings to the drip line helps retain moisture and suppress weeds. Lawns: Lawns are lush after spring feeding — let them grow a little before mowing and spot-spray clover or weeds. Butterflies: If you’re keen to attract Monarch butterflies, plant swan plants now, protect from late frosts and keep them covered from early butterflies if not big enough to support the caterpillars. Cheers, Linda

Gardening in Waitaki October 1st 2025

Oamaru public Gardens.

October and Spring is in full windy swing here in Waitaki, with later blossoms now out, the bright pink upright Prunus Kanzan and the soft white-pink spreading Prunus Shimidsu Sakura, always looked great underplanted with a sea of forget-me-nots or deep blue “match heads” in my past large garden. Watch for Prunus trees sending shoots from below the graft, remove these promptly.  Rhododendrons and azaleas are bursting with colour as spring bulbs are finishing. Leave bulb foliage to die back naturally so it can store energy for next year. Large clumps can be lifted and divided to share.Shrubs & Perennials Trim winter-flowering ericas once flowers brown to encourage fresh green summer growth. Pinch back tall chrysanthemums now for sturdier autumn plants. Prune fuchsias because they bloom on new wood. Support lilies as they push up, mulch to keep soil moist but free-draining.                                       Feeding & Mulching:Weeding will be a full-time job this month. Clear annual weeds thoroughly, especially couch grass, which must be removed completely. After weeding, cover the soil with organic compost to suppress regrowth before planting annuals and perennials. Water new plantings in the morning to avoid fungal problems, and mulch to conserve moisture — pea straw works well around trees and shrubs. Feed roses, shrubs, and perennials now. Use a balanced fertiliser watered in, or mix homemade compost with blood & bone and a little potash. Old stable manure spread around (but not dug in) is excellent for roses. Keep fertiliser away from trunks and apply just beyond the dripline where feeding roots are most active.Delay hedge trimming until new growth firms up, including box hedging. Trim on overcast days to avoid sun scorch. Camellias can be shaped once flowering finishes; open the middle for light and airflow enough for a bird to fly through.. Lawns are lush and growing fast now but the strong winds will have dried them, soak, mow regularly and scatter unsprayed clippings lightly as mulch about the garden. Apply fertiliser just before rain, never on dry sunny days. New patches can be resown now — soil is warm enough for germination. Avoid fertilising new grass until well established. Vegetables & Herbs Direct sow veg seeds now, but thinly. Mix seeds with fine soil for even sowing. Protect seedlings from birds with shade cloth. Corn and pumpkins can be planted now with protection to allow for their long ripening season. Tomatoes can be planted closer to Labor weekend, those in tunnel or glasshouses thrive during our cooler nights, ensure good airflow and never leave leaves wet overnight. Cherry tomatoes do well in pots on sunny porches. Herbs will be flourishing:  Harvest often for fresh use or dry for winter. Most enjoy lime and aged stable manure. Mixed herb pots planted now make great Christmas gifts. Cheers Linda.

Tomato plants staked and protected.

Gardening in Waitaki 24th September 2025

October is already here, and Gardens across Waitaki are in full spring bloom. Blossoms, magnolias, rhododendrons, and azaleas are making a stunning show, while lawns and borders are bursting into life. Every week, something new appears, hostas unfurling, lilies pushing through, peonies stretching up, and perennial treasures like lily of the valley and Solomon’s seal. With soil warming and daylight lengthening, growth is leaping ahead. Thankfully, we received much-needed rain last week, so while moisture is in the ground, we need to keep it there by mulching around plants, trees and shrubs with compost. Compost will also support new roots while they develop to carry growth into the new growing season. Roses: If you haven’t already, feed roses, shrubs, and perennials do it now. Use a balanced fertiliser, blood & bone, or a homemade mix with sulphate of potash to encourage flowering and fruiting. Aged stable manure mixed with compost spread around the drip line of roses works wonders to carry them through their long flowering season. Always water powdered fertiliser in well. Roses appreciate being fed to encourage strong growth that resists pests and disease far better than weak, soft growth. Aphids (greenfly) can often be squashed by hand or blasted off with the hose. Birds will help too. If infestations are heavy, try a safe homemade deterrent, such as rhubarb leaf infusion mixed with a little detergent, effective on ornamentals but not for edible crops. Early morning watering is best, allowing plants and soil time to dry before nightfall, which reduces the likelihood of fungal problems developing. For new plantings, liquid feeding helps them settle and make strong feeding roots. Perennials & Ornamentals: Hostas, Take care not to damage emerging shoots. Keep them moist, feed with compost and blood & bone, and protect against slugs by spreading broken egg shells around them. Lilies & Peonies: Stake now before stems grow tall. Never let lilies dry out. Dahlias: Plant tubers now. Divide clumps if they’ve grown too large and replant or share with friends. Lavender – Growing strongly now, often free of spittle bugs early in the season. If they appear, dislodge with a strong jet of water. Camellias. Once flowering finishes, trim and thin branches to let in light and encourage next year’s buds. Sweet peas, plant in compost-rich trenches with climbing supports. Their scented blooms will reward you all summer. Watch grafted flowering cherries — remove any shoots from below the graft, or they will quickly overtake the ornamental top. Lawns:are growing fast now. Established lawns benefit from fertiliser applied just before rain. Avoid feeding newly germinated grass as fertiliser burns young seedlings. October is an excellent time to sow seed thickly to beat spring weeds, keep moist, and you’ll have a strong strike before weeds take hold. Fruit & Berries: Blossoms on apples, pears, cherries, and plums will be drawing in bees and pollinators. Raspberries and gooseberries are flowering too. Strawberries should be planted or already budding; they thrive in raised beds with compost-enriched soil and a layer of pine needles to suppress weeds and keep fruit clean. Currants are leafing up well and should crop strongly with good pollination. Herbs:are thriving in the spring warmth. If starting a new herb garden, choose a sunny spot, dig in lime and old manure, and plant away. Divide clumps as needed and harvest regularly to prevent plants from running to seed. Mixed herb pots make excellent Christmas gifts if planted now. Vegetables: Garden centres are brimming with seedlings — tomatoes, herbs, potatoes, beans, corn, pumpkins, and leafy greens. If you don’t yet have a veggie patch, claim a corner now: dig or rotary hoe, edge it neatly, and keep surrounding weeds down. Peas & beans – Plant now; peas will climb quickly on netting. Corn & pumpkins, Sow this month to ensure a long growing season. Carrots, Sow now for a crop before carrot fly peaks. If carrot fly is a problem, cover rows with insect netting from germination through April, or try Resistafly F1 seeds, which are more resistant. Avoid strong thinning as it releases the scent that attracts flies. Potatoes, Plant seed potatoes in well-prepared beds. Successive sowing, Plant small amounts often for a steady harvest rather than a glut. Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in Waitaki September 17th 2025

Magnolia Starwars

As I write these garden notes, we are still waiting for a good drenching spring Rain to give lawns and gardens a real boost, but blossom and magnolias are lighting up North Otago. Bees are humming again, and spring planting is in full swing. Blossoms & Trees: If you’re planning new gardens, now is the time to choose blossom trees. Prunus come in many forms, from tall grafts with clear trunks (great for driveways and walkways) to low, spreading forms for lawns. Always consider eventual height, spread, and root system before planting close to houses or paths – falling blossom, sticky underfoot, and autumn leaves can be a nuisance on paved areas. There’s a tree for every spot, so seek advice to match your choice to your garden. Weeds & Beds: deal with weeds early by hoeing or hand-pulling before they set seed. If you prefer not to use sprays, try natural alternatives that dehydrate weeds on hot sunny days. Annual weeds are easily managed, but perennials like convolvulus or couch will need persistence. Salt dissolved in hot water is an inexpensive, effective control for many annual weeds, but it is not systemic, so if washed off, it will need to be reapplied. Planting & Pots: This is the perfect time to sow seeds for summer colour, directly in the ground or in trays with a layer of seed-raising mix on top of potting mix. Transplant once seedlings have developed strong roots and hardened before planting outside. For baskets, choose shallow-rooted plants such as pansies, lobelia, small petunias, nemesia, or dwarf sweet peas, with slow-release fertiliser and water crystals added. Established potted shrubs may be rootbound – remove from pot, trim back roots, and re-pot with fresh mix and fertiliser. Roses and hydrangeas need deep pots to keep roots cool; lining pots with tin foil (shiny side out) helps prevent overheating. Ensure all potted plants have excellent drainage and consistent water. Shrubs & Flowers: Trim back winter and early-spring-flowering shrubs before new growth gets away. Layer azaleas, rhododendrons, magnolias, and other low growers by pegging a branch into the soil to root. Stake tall perennials such as delphiniums, peonies, asters, and phlox now, before they shoot up. Lavenders are making new growth; give them a dressing of lime, and trim lightly. Replace very woody, tired plants with fresh ones. Bougainvillea should be cut back once new buds appear, then fed and watered to encourage strong flowering. Tubular begonias can be set into damp sawdust or compost until sprouting, then potted on, but once in growth, never let them dry out until flowering finishes. Roses are leafing up, and aphids will appear soon. Rub them off by hand or leave for birds and predators; if spraying, wait until foliage hardens. Lawns: Feed established lawns just before or during rain to keep them lush. New lawns should be sown thickly to outpace weeds. Avoid feeding very new lawns; they need to push roots deep for strength. Keep mower blades high in spring to thicken grass. Vegetables: In the vegetable garden, plant lettuces in fortnightly intervals, get peas and climbing beans into sunny, manured ground with supports, and sow corn and pumpkins, protecting seedlings from frost. Keep mounding potatoes as shoots appear, and cover if frosts threaten. A quick potato guide: Waxy (boiling, salads, soups): Draga, Frisia, Nadine. All-purpose: Desiree, Rua, Vivaldi. Floury (mash, roast, chips, baking): Agria, Ilam Hardy, Red Rascal. Herbs are putting on fresh growth, prune back old stems, enrich the soil with compost and lime, and pick often to keep them producing. Fruit: Strawberries and rhubarb are stirring, mulch with manure-enriched compost, then straw, pine needles, or untreated lawn clippings. Blackcurrants can still be pruned; mulch with compost and potash afterward. September is full of promise: blossom, bees, new growth, and the thrill of planting for the season ahead. Take time to enjoy spring and all it offers, even between the showers, frosts, and the inevitable winds! Cheers, Linda

Root prunning potted plant.

Gardening in Waitaki 2nd September 2025

I loved early Spring in my past large graden.

"Tra La" Spring at last, thank goodness – the season of new beginnings. Pollen is about once again settling on every surface and no doubt there will be plenty of sneezing! Every day, something new pops up in the garden. Sweet peas, ranunculus, anemones, and tulips should be well up by now. Unfortunately, weeds are also off to a flying start. Hoeing or hand-pulling while they’re small is quick and effective. If spraying is needed, organic sprays work best on young weeds – apply on dull days to avoid upsetting pollinators. While weeding, I take stock of jobs needing attention: Staking delphiniums before they grow too tall. Removing mulch from around iris rhizomes and peony crowns. Pulling out self-sown plants and unwanted natives before they take hold Plants, shrubs, and trees will all respond to spring feeding now. Liquid feed perennials and bedding plants, and use a good general fertiliser for trees and shrubs. Exceptions are azaleas (feed after flowering) and tulips (which already store enough food in their bulbs – extra fertiliser only encourages leafy growth at the expense of flowers). Cut back old catmint growth if you haven’t already – I like to leave it over winter to protect the new shoots. It’s also time to “dress” the garden for late spring and summer. Think about colour – what shades you’d like and where they’ll look best. Concentrate on sunny spots to get bedding plants and perennials moving strongly. Why not plant wildflowers? This year I’m sowing wild flower seeds into egg cartons filled with seed-raising mix. The cartons can be buried directly into the soil, suppressing weeds at first and breaking down as seedlings grow. Roses There are still roses available, and they don’t always need to be planted together in a rose bed – they make excellent fillers in sunny borders. Roses bring beauty to the garden and to the home when picked for display. If you’re new to rose growing, don’t be put off by thorns and pruning. All that’s required is an occasional feed, deadheading spent flowers, a light summer prune after the first flush, and a harder prune in mid-winter. Ask for advice when buying to find the perfect roses for your garden. Lawns Early spring rain should arrive soon. Have lawn fertiliser ready and apply before or during rainfall – results will show quickly. Healthy lawns are fed often, leaving little room for weeds. Vegetables Sow carrot, spring onion, lettuce, brassicas, peas, and broad beans. It’s still too early for tomatoes, basil, corn, summer beans, and the pumpkin family.

Fruit Keep water up to all fruit bushes and trees during dry spells. Lift lower branches on gooseberry bushes to make picking easier as the fruit hangs beneath. Thin out branches before leaves arrive for easier access. Buds are swelling towards blossom burst as sap rises – what’s needed now is sunshine and bees for pollination.

Gardening in Waitaki August 20th 2025

As August nears drawing to a close, winter loosens its grip—though recent frosts remind us to stay cautious. Seedlings are quivering in the cold but, with frost cloth protection, are hanging on and soon ready to pot on. Growth has been slow, but weeds such as chickweed and bidibid are thriving—pull them now before they set seed. Elsewhere, violets are filling gardens with fragrance. Camellias, rhododendrons, and shallow-rooted shrubs may show yellowing from nitrogen deficiency after winter—correct with slow-release fertiliser and compost. Keep frost cloth handy for tender plants, mulch after spring rains to lock in moisture, and feed generously. Plants are pouring energy into new growth. The work you put in now with feeding, mulching, and tidying will carry your garden strongly into the season ahead. Magnolias take centre stage, their sculptural bare branches covered in stunning blooms. They thrive in acid soils alongside azaleas, rhododendrons, and camellias. Garden centres are full of choices: compact Magnolia Billowing Cloud (3m × 2.5m) for small gardens, or the taller Charles Raffill (7m × 5m) for larger spaces. Lavenders can be cut back as new growth appears. Old, woody bushes can be trimmed hard to encourage fresh shoots—if they don’t respond, replace them. New plants just need a light haircut, compost, and lime. Climbers are in bud now, so trim carefully. Delay pruning jasmines until frosts are over. Roses are moving fast—feed now to set them up strongly and reduce the need for spraying later. Many other perennials and shrubs benefit from feeding too, but avoid heavy fertiliser on South African and Australian natives. Hostas can still be divided before leaves emerge, while dahlias can be planted in sunny, free-draining spots. Ornamental grasses should be cut back now, and shrubs tidied, though take care with climbers and spring-flowering plants already in bud. Lawns are greening up and need attention after winter. Moss thrives in shaded, compacted, or acidic soils—apply sulphate of iron, rake out once blackened, then aerate and feed. A good spring start will help lawns withstand the predicted dry summer. Vegetable beds are waking up too. Plant seedlings later in the day when sun is softer, but water in the morning so soil warms before night. Sow green crops (mustard, lupine, barley, wheat) in unused areas, and dig them in while still lush and soft. Early seed potatoes can be planted now—protect against late frosts. Continue sowing seeds under cover, using soil, compost, and seed-raising mix. Cover trays with glass or plastic, allowing airflow, and feed seedlings weekly with diluted worm tea. Fruit trees and shrubs need a boost—apply potash-rich fertiliser to encourage strong crops. Plant deciduous trees and berry canes by early September. Thin raspberries by removing old and weak canes. Citrus, especially lemons, will appreciate a feed of citrus fertiliser and a good soak. Keep trunks free of grass and weeds, mulch well, and time spraying for dull days when bees aren’t active.

Cheers, Linda

Gardening in Waitaki August 13th 2015

Early spring is peeping out from winter, despite the harsh frosts. Snowdrops are always the first to push through the frost, followed by winter roses, early camellias, daffodils, and now plum blossom. If we don’t get a good dollop of rain soon, shallow-rooted shrubs and trees—such as rhododendrons, camellias, azaleas, and maples—will need watering to support their new growth. On mild days, it’s tempting to get planting and sowing. Remember that seeds need warmth to germinate, so protect them until the soil reaches a suitable temperature. Outdoors, sowing is best left until frosts are ending and bees are active. Plants budding up for flowers can be given a gentle liquid feed now to keep root growth strong. Diluted worm or comfrey tea is ideal for soft new growth, but any liquid food at a weak dilution will help. Roses benefit from liquid manure diluted to the colour of weak tea, applied around the roots. Finish all rose pruning by month’s end. Weeds & Invasive Plants: Weeds are on the move. With the ground still soft, hand-pulling or hoeing is easy—remove them before they seed. Now is the time to deal with invasives such as ivy, aluminium plant (Lamium), couch grass, convolvulus, and bindweed. Hydrangeas: New green growth at the base means pruning time. Cut all woody stems that flowered last summer back to the second bud from the bottom. Leave all other stems, as they will carry the new flowers. Pink hydrangeas prefer alkaline soils (pH > 8.5), while blue ones need acidic soil. To maintain strong blue blooms, grow in a large pot with acid potting mix if your garden soil produces pink flowers. Planting & Pruning: Keep planting roses, peony roses, and gladioli until September. Plant lilies immediately; they must not dry out as they make roots year-round. Cut back leggy lavatera and buddleia, they will bounce back quickly. Comfrey – A Garden Powerhouse: Comfrey’s deep roots draw nutrients from well below the soil’s surface, storing them in the leaves. These nutrients, especially potassium, promote flowering and fruiting. To make comfrey tea, harvest leaves (removing flowers and tough stems), chop them, and pack them tightly into a lidded, watertight container. Weigh them down with a brick or stone, then check every few weeks. The breakdown process produces a strong-smelling brown liquid—collect and store it in bottles in a cool, dark place. Refill the bucket with fresh leaves. Plant comfrey where it can spread freely, away from main garden beds, as it can become invasive. Lawns & Moss Control: Moss killers are a short-term fix—address the cause for lasting results. Common issues include: Waterlogging , Poor feeding (light green grass), Acidic soil (test and lime if needed). Shade from trees or shrubs, mowing too close. Sandy soil (improve with compost/humus) , Compaction from heavy use (aerate in autumn), DIY soil test. Pouring white vinegar over soil (fizz = alkaline). If no fizz, mix soil with water, then add baking soda (fizz = acidic). Small patches can be treated with sulphate of iron—moss will blacken, then rake out and re-seed. Apply your first spring lawn feed before rain is due. Vegetables: Harvest winter crops while they’re still at their best. Fold cauliflower leaves over and tie to protect from frost and keep florets tight. Prepare asparagus beds deeply with compost and good drainage; existing beds should be weeded carefully to avoid damaging crowns. Plant sprouted potatoes now for an early crop—try laying them on pine needles or comfrey leaves for extra nutrients as they decompose. Inland gardens may still be frozen, but you can prepare beds by digging in compost or humus. Fruit: Soak and mulch fruit trees and berry bushes—they have a lot of growing ahead. Cheers, Linda.

Asparagus popping through.

Gardening in Waitaki August 1st 2025

Going by my past notes, August often brings us one last true burst of winter before we can fully leap into spring. While we’re all eager for sunshine and blossoms, it’s worth remembering that plants and soil need a consistent cold spell to reset and perform at their best once growth kicks in. The downside to a late cold snap is the damage it can do to early new growth and tender fruit blossoms. To set fruit well, we need milder, sun-filled days so pollinators can do their job during that brief window when flowers bloom. Time to Dress the Garden: Cold or not, August is the time to get creative in the ornamental garden planning, planting out, shifting things around, and feeding. Liquid feed annuals and perennials that have been nursed through winter. Their roots are beginning to absorb nutrients, helping buds to plump and strengthen. Hydrangeas will be showing fat green shoots now. Prune flowering stems back to the second bud from the base, and leave all non-flowering growth as that’s where the new blooms will form. You can take hydrangea cuttings now—choose thick, woody stems about 12” long, cut on a slant. Dip in rooting hormone (optional), insert into damp river sand around the edge of a well-drained pot (not in the centre), water well and place in a sheltered spot. Roses , especially robust ones like Flower Carpet, can still be given their winter trim. If well established, they can be tidied with a hedge trimmer. Staking Trees: A Timely Reminder’ve noticed newly planted grafted trees in gardens with no stakes. While the soil is firm now and winter winds are few, come spring, we often face sudden gales. Without stakes, these tall trees can rock in the wind, disturbing the roots before they’ve anchored properly. Unstaked trees grow more slowly—or not at all. Now is the time to ensure any recent tree plantings are properly supported. Seed Sowing Underway: It’s an exciting time; seed sowing has begun in earnest. Under glass and in trays off the cold ground, I’m sowing: Cottage annuals like cosmos, cornflowers, love-in-the-mist, snapdragons, alyssum and more. Tender annuals will have to wait unless you have a heated greenhouse. If you’re already seeing new growth on overwintered plants, make sure to protect them from sudden frosts. Vegetable Garden: Now’s the time to sow seeds for vegetables that will be ready to prick out into punnets and plant once the soil warms. Sunny days and frosts help break down heavy soils and get beds in shape. Watch for birds! They’re hungry and nesting, and love tender new leaf growth—cover veg beds with netting or frost cloth to protect crops. Fruit Trees and Grape Vines: Fruit trees are now widely available in garden centres. All are grafted onto rootstock, which affects their eventual size: M26 – Ideal for espaliers and cordons M27 – The smallest rootstock, great for step-overs or growing in pots. Ask for help if you're unsure about labels or planting positions. Grapevine pruning should be completed soon, before the sap rises. Here's how to shape fruiting vines: Remove all new growth except the main fruiting leader. On the leader, prune side shoots back to two buds. Leave about a hand span between each fruiting shoot to allow fruit to size properly. If a shoot has double buds, remove the weaker one to concentrate energy into the stronger shoot. Peach trees: keep an eye on budburst, especially in warmer gardens. When it happens, apply a copper spray immediately to help prevent leaf curl. Scruff Update: Since moving yet again, Scruff has gone from ruling a large garden to ruling a smaller garden and now an even smaller garden, and to let all around know that he is still THE BOSS of all inside his fence and beyond! He’s taken it upon himself to still guard the entire neighbourhood. No cat, bird, dog or human is unnoticed under his watchful eye. In our large property, I could bellow at him to settle down without bothering a soul, but here, with neighbours all around, it’s me who’s been quietened. Scruff, of course, is happily maintaining his security post. Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in Waitaki July 22nd 2025

Sasanqua camellia.

We’re edging ever closer to spring. With another winter month nearly behind us, the garden is starting to stir—both above and below the ground—even as heavy frosts continue to blanket the mornings. I remember winters when the ground stayed frozen well into mid-season and my pond was sealed under thick ice. But in recent years, we’ve seen a shift: sharp frosts followed by unseasonably warm days. At this time around my past, expansive, ever-evolving garden, pruning, composting, and pea-strawing would have been in full swing.  While it may look like growth has slowed, coastal conditions and warmer soils mean there’s still plenty of nutrient uptake happening underground. Birds will be cold and hungry now, with very little for them to forage from nature, and they will soon be nest-building. I have been offering wild bird seed onto a lawn, and they did not take long to find it, and expect it each morning.  Late Winter Care & Feeding Now is a great time to give bulbs, hellebores (winter roses), polyanthus, violas, witch hazel, camellias, and rhododendrons a top dressing of compost. Even a sprinkle of blood and bone can be beneficial—especially if we get a shower of rain to help wash it in. Garden retailers are offering plenty of seasonal colour with sasanqua camellias in full flower, along with various hellebores and vibrant indoor cyclamen to brighten up homes and porches. Keep in mind that these flowering plants are often grown under protective conditions to get them looking their best, so let them harden gradually before planting them out in the garden. Roses: With the ground retaining dampness, mulch can go on to keep it there. Mulch also protects rose roots and allows the plant to focus on root development as it gears up for the growing season. Un-sprayed pea or barley straw, along with well-aged compost, make excellent mulch materials. As early spring approaches, a generous application of rose fertiliser will support strong, healthy growth. Look for fertilisers high in potassium to encourage large, vibrant blooms. For established roses, apply 200 g (about 1 cup) per square metre and water it in well. Fertilising just before the end of winter gives a valuable boost, especially as swelling buds begin to draw nutrients. Another application in mid-December will promote a lovely autumn flush. Have your fertiliser ready to go next month! Prunng should be done and dusted before bud burst. Fruit & Ornamental Trees There’s no better time than now to plant both ornamental and fruiting trees. Most come with detailed labels explaining exactly what you’re buying and how best to plant and care for them. Be sure to stake all tall grafted trees—any root movement caused by wind can really hinder their early growth. And remember: all fruit trees thrive best in open, sunny locations. Vegetable Garden If you’re dreaming of new potatoes for Christmas dinner, now’s the time to act! Seed potatoes are available in stores, and it’s important to know whether you’re choosing an early or late variety. Potatoes are not a one-type-fits-all vegetable anymore!Lay seed potatoes out in trays to begin “chitting,” allowing them to sprout in a cool, well-lit, dry area so they form sturdy buds for early planting.Continue sowing vegetable seeds in trays for transplanting later. If your garden gets good winter sun, you can start planting cauliflower and cabbage seedlings (be sure to protect them from birds), and even sow early peas. Asparagus crowns are also in stock now and should be planted in well-composted, fertilised beds (avoid using animal manure). Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in Waitaki July 9th 2025

Bleak winter mornings and damp, muddy conditions are keeping many gardeners indoors for now. However, this is an ideal time to plan for spring colour and begin sowing seeds under cover, where they can germinate in a sheltered, spot with good overhead light. Try antirrhinum (snapdragon), carnation, calendula (common marigold), sweet peas, verbena, cosmos, and viola. These should germinate well and be ready for pricking out into punnets before spring arrives.   New season’s roses are now available, though they’re not as popular as they once were. Many new gardeners see them as high-maintenance, and the thorns can be off-putting. But to me, a summer garden simply isn’t complete without at least one or two roses for their beauty and fragrance. Roses don’t need to be planted in traditional rose beds. If you're unsure about including them in your garden, seek out a rose enthusiast for advice on the best varieties—ones that flower continuously, have a lovely scent, fewer thorns, and are known to thrive with minimal fuss.There are roses to suit all sorts of spaces: to add a splash of colour among green shrubs, to climb a wall or fence, or to spill gracefully over a low wall—like the Flower Carpet varieties, which now come in a range of soft shades and can be trimmed with a hedge trimmer.Roses do need full sun, regular watering through summer, and a generous layer of compost in early spring and again after summer deadheading. July is the time for their winter prune—just these steps in the cycle of care will reward you with years of joy.Planting new roses: Plant below the graft section, at the bud union to the root stock, fill the planting hole with water and let it seep away, plant and firm in. Dahlias will need cutting back and mulching for protection if left in the ground. Clumps can be dug now and reduced or split up, dahlias tubers will hold in a dry place until planting out when frosts are over.  Peonies are divided in autumn and are now on offer to be planted in well-draining soil. if you think there is a chance they would sit in wet, soggy soil over winter, they may rot. Planting can continue until September.If young trees or shrubs need transplanting, now is a good time to do it, whilst they are at their most dormant stage. Fruit: Look closely at the shape of your fruit trees and plan how pruning can improve them if needed. Pip fruit should be pruned during winter. Raspberries: Pruning is best done in winter. Remove all old canes from last year's harvest; these will be brittle and need to be cut to the ground, then look for canes with healthy, thick bark and green leaves. Cut these canes back to a mitre height and secure by tying against a fence or framework. \Vegetables: On the coast, start raising vegetable seeds in glasshouses or under glass or plastic with ventilation spaces to circulate air and stop seeds from going mouldy. Plant veg seedlings now on offer, along with garlic cloves. In colder areas, sit back and let frosts work on the soil. Start sprouting seed potatoes. Early varieties like Jersey benne, Cliffs kidney, Rocket, Ilam hardy, and Maris Anchor should be sprouting now for early planting. Cheers, Linda

Gardening in Waitaki July 1st 2025

We’re well into winter now, those frosty mornings certainly remind us! But in between the chill, there are small promises of spring. I’ve already noticed jonquils peeking out and beginning to bloom on those rare mild days. Winter in the garden is quieter, but it’s also the perfect time for preparation. From pruning roses to planning your veg patch, there’s plenty to do if you know where to start. Convolvulus and Cutbacks: In my past large garden, this time of year meant cutting back deciduous shrubs and tackling stubborn weeds, especially convolvulus. If you've dealt with it, you’ll know how deeply it weaves itself through everything. I once removed a whole wheelbarrow of those wiry white roots from a tiny patch! There’s real satisfaction in pulling a convolvulus root out in one go. I don’t use chemical sprays, so digging and hand-pulling were the only way. Winter’s bare garden beds make this much easier. Pruning Basics: When and Why: Before you reach for your secateurs, consider how the plant grows. Does it flower on new wood or old wood? That little detail can make all the difference. Prune at the wrong time, and you might miss a season of flowers. But don’t be afraid to try; a "mistake" is a chance to learn, and plants forgive us. Rose Pruning by Type: Late winter is prime time for rose pruning, as the wood has hardened. Timing varies depending on your climate, so aim to finish before buds begin to swell. Here’s a quick guide: Bush Roses: Open up the center by removing inward-facing stems. Cut back the height by two-thirds, always to an outward-facing bud. Remove old, damaged wood and use a wire brush on woody centers to stimulate new shoots. Floribundas: These roses bloom in clusters. Remove some older stems at the base and reduce younger ones by two-thirds to encourage fresh growth. Hybrid Teas: Known for their single, perfect blooms, they can be pruned quite hard, again, to an outward-facing bud. Standard Roses: Treat them like bush roses. Climbing Roses: Train main canes horizontally to encourage flowers along their length. Replace older, unproductive canes with new ones as needed. Pillar Roses: Great for arches and pergolas. I use hedge trimmers for a rough cut, then tidy up with secateurs. Fairy & Flower Carpet roses: A quick hedge trim works well, but thin out the center with secateurs for better airflow and health. Hydrangeas & Lavender: Leave them be for now. The old growth protects new shoots from frost. Planting Bare-Rooted Trees: Bare-rooted deciduous trees are arriving in garden centers now. Get them in the ground while it’s soft and moist, but avoid frozen or waterlogged soil. Hold off planting Evergreens. They won't start growing until spring anyway. Buy now, but keep them in their pots outdoors in a sheltered spot to acclimatize. Planting near a house? Always read the label. I’ve seen many small shrubs grow into big problems when planted too close to walls or fences. Vegetables. Heavy winter rain can leave the soil soggy, and most veggies won’t grow well in cold, wet ground. Don’t worry, it’s normal. Now’s the time to prep: I like to spread aged pig manure across my raised beds. Worms will get to work and have the soil ready by spring. Early seed potatoes can be “chitted” indoors. You can leave them in the dark for long pale sprouts, or better yet, keep them in a bright, frost-free spot. They’ll grow short, knobbly, greenish-purple shoots, perfect for planting later. Fruit Tree Planting & Pruning: Now is the time to plant deciduous fruit trees, just avoid frosty hollows for early starters like plums, pears, and apricots. Peaches & Nectarines: Prune in early to late spring to maintain an open center. Spring cuts heal better as growth begins. Cherries: Need summer pruning for the first 5 years — always on dry, sunny days to avoid disease. Apples: I've learned not to prune too hard in winter, as it only produces those pesky water sprouts in spring with no blossom. Water sprouts are thin shoots that arise from the trunk or branches of an apple tree and drain vital energy from the tree without providing any benefit in return. Now, I prune those vigorously growing trees in summer instead, when the tree has fully leafed out. This encourages balance without encouraging wild new shoots. Espaliers (cordons): Prune weak growth in winter to promote strong spring shoots. Save larger cuts for summer. Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in Waitaki June 24th 2025

Gosh, the weeks are racing by — with the days so short, it’s Friday before I know it! The leaf cleanup will feel endless for some right now. This is the best time of year to make big changes in the garden. If something needs to be shifted or removed, don’t wait. I often find myself clearing a space, then walking around to find something well-established that would be perfect to move into the gap. In my past large garden, I would have made a start on rose pruning — it always took me a few weeks to get through them, and as I pruned, I also cleaned up around them. Once finished, I would spray the lot with a mix of copper and winter oil to seal the cuts and protect against fungal issues. If you’re new to rose pruning, start with a sharp pair of secateurs. Remove anything growing into the middle of the bush; an open centre is required to let in light and air. Make your cuts on an angle just above an outward-facing bud. Cut back any branches crossing over one another, again to an outward-facing bud, and remove old, woody or spindly growth completely. Be sure the crown of the rose is kept clear of compost or soil, and give this area a thorough spray as well. New roses also need pruning, even if they were trimmed before delivery. If you’re planting a new rose where one has previously grown, swap the soil with fresh soil from another part of the garden. Make a planting hole that is a few centimetres larger than the full spread of the roots. This is usually about 60cm (2ft) in diameter and at least 30cm (1ft) deep. Some gardeners have used a cardboard box with the bottom removed to line the hole; by the time the cardboard rots away, the plant has established. Boost plant growth by applying a fertiliser high in nitrogen, such as sulphate of ammonia. Improve soil structure by incorporating some well-rotted manure or organic matter into the backfill soil, then firm this around the roots and water well. Elsewhere in the garden, it’s time to deal with moss and lichen on paths and walkways before they get dangerously slippery. You can use a moss-kill product, but a watering can of diluted household bleach or a sprinkling of an inexpensive laundry powder will also do the job. Once moss has blackened, it can be raked off. Seed sowing Flower seeds for spring and summer: I’ve planted delphiniums, snapdragons, poppies, lupins, and cosmos. Even without a greenhouse, they’ll germinate slowly in a sunny, sheltered spot with a cover of plastic or glass ( with breath spaces) and frost cloth; this will reward you with strong plants come spring. I find winter-started seedlings outperform those sown in spring. Ponds: This is also a good time to give fish ponds some attention. Move your fish to a bucket of pond water, then empty and clean the pond. Water lilies in containers can be repotted now too — they’re hungry plants that love rich soil but need careful setup to prevent fertiliser leaching into the water. Use a base of clean gravel and clay or heavy cardboard and clean gravel, then add manure, slow-release fertiliser, and soil before replanting. Finish with more soil and a thick topping of gravel. Trim back roots if needed to fit the plant back in. Refill the pond, but wait a couple of weeks before returning the fish. Lawns:Moss in lawns is widespread after rain; sulphate of ammonia dissolved in water will deal with the moss. Once the moss blackens, rake it out. Vegie garden update: Along the coast where winters stay mild, things are still growing steadily. Keep rotating your crops — root veg where leafy crops were, and vice versa. Plant peas and buttercrunch lettuce if you have raised beds that get sun all day. Buttercrunch thrives in the cooler months and has such a sweet, tender flavour. The quiet powerhouses of the veg garden are the perennial veg. Now’s the time to mulch generously, feed the soil with compost, leaf mould or forest floor wood trimmings to support asparagus, rhubarb, globe artichokes, strawberries and Welsh onions. Even in the stillness of winter, the garden is deepening, getting ready to surge into life again. Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in Waitaki June 16th 2025

Matariki sky.

The shortest day is next friday, and the sun still beams down on those non-dismal winter days. The Matariki holiday will give us a long weekend—just enough time to catch up on essential garden jobs. There’s plenty to do at this time of year: spreading compost and pea straw, trimming hedges, pruning, chainsawing trees, cutting back perennials, and mowing up the last of the fallen leaves. Once the clean up is done, the garden can rest—and so can we. It won’t be long before spring stirs things to life again. For now, I’m busy sowing seeds and potting up plants in readiness. Even without a large garden to put to bed anymore (whew!), I like to be prepared for that slow seasonal awakening. Sowing Seeds on the Coast: Seed trays need to be under cover with plenty of light.—Germination happens on those sunny days when the ground holds warmth. Once seedlings show two true leaves, prick them out into punnets and keep them protected until the frosts pass. Mist with water only in the morning and only when the potting mix feels dry—this gives the mix time to warm again before the chill of night. Weeds & Self-Seeders: While weeding, you might spot rogue trees and shrubs—bird-sown surprises popping up in odd places. These can become well-established among rhododendrons and camellias before being noticed. It’s best to remove them entirely, not just cut them back, as they’ll reshoot and compete for root space. Look out for self-sown treasures too—always a bonus! If you left polyanthus or violas in the ground, they’ll likely have multiplied. They can be lifted, divided, and replanted now. A sprinkle of dried blood will green them up after transplanting. Camellias and daphnes can also benefit from this boost if they’re looking tired. Sweet peas can be sown now for early spring flowering. Pruning & Trimming: It’s now too late in the year to trim soft-wooded trees and shrubs—wait until spring growth has firmed up. Ivy, however, is an exception. Like wisteria, it can be cut back at any time. If left unchecked, each soft leader can become a thick, woody trunk. Bare branches in winter make it easier to assess deciduous trees and shrubs. Remove overcrowded or crossing branches and consider reducing large limbs that throw excessive shade in summer. Opening up the canopy can brighten the house and improve views. If a tree near the house has outgrown its space, consider replacing it with a smaller variety that still provides structure without dominating. Conifers, in particular, can outgrow their welcome in just a decade. If lower branches are removed, they won’t regrow, and the tree’s form will be permanently altered. To fill a sudden gap from tree removal, try placing a section of manuka screening behind the replacement plant for shelter. Once the new plant fills out, the screen can be taken away. Lawns & Liming: If your winter lawn is underperforming despite regular feeding and watering, try applying lime. This helps to raise the soil pH to around 6 (mildly acidic), promoting stronger grass growth. Vegetable Garden: Garlic Time: The shortest day is garlic planting time. Prepare the bed with manure-rich compost and plant NZ-grown garlic cloves (pointy end up) about 7–8cm deep in a sunny spot. Garlic bulbs form in late spring and early summer, so make sure the soil stays moist during dry spells. Avoid mulching garlic, as soggy conditions can cause cloves to rot. Feed with blood and bone or a liquid fertiliser through the growing season. If you’ve got empty beds, sow a green crop like mustard now. Scatter seed thickly and leave it until spring before digging it in. Cheers, Linda

Gardening in Waitaki June 10th 2025

As we approach the shortest day of the year, there’s still a surprising warmth in the June sun that takes the edge off the morning chill. But once the sun dips below the horizon, there’s no mistaking—we’re deep in winter. https://bestinzealand.co.nz/good-sorts-oamaru-couples-monarch-butterfly-mission-takes-flight/ What a wonderful feature Gordon and Joan Martin received on TV One last week, highlighting their inspiring efforts to support and protect Monarch butterflies here in North Otago. Their dedication is a reminder of the vital role each of us can play in preserving these beautiful creatures. As a community, it's up to us not only to enjoy their presence but also to actively contribute by planting butterfly-friendly flowers and saving local seeds to help sustain their habitat. If you're a seed collector with more seeds than you need, consider sharing them with the community by dropping them off to Robyn at the Garden Corner, located at our Resource Recovery Park. For several years now, Gordon’s Swan plants have been available there, and we're pleased to say this will continue into the next growing season. Rogue Trees and Shrubs: Now that deciduous trees and shrubs have lost their leaves, gardeners may begin to notice rogue trees that birds have introduced to the garden. Some of these may have taken root among established shrubs like rhododendrons and camellias, becoming quite entrenched and difficult to remove. It’s best to remove these unwanted trees completely if possible, as they grow stronger each year and can interfere with the roots of your desired plants. In coastal areas, it’s often possible to transplant these rogue trees and shrubs at this time of year, provided their root systems aren’t too disturbed. This is also a great time to lift and replant many self-seeded plants such as hellebores, lupins, poppies, pansies, violas, forget-me-nots, and primulas. If you have polyanthas left in the ground from last year, you’ll likely find that they’ve multiplied. These can be easily divided and replanted. After transplanting, a light dressing of dried blood will help green up both polyanthas and primroses, giving them a strong start for the season. Roses: New seasons roses are in Garden centers now, if planting make sure it is in a place that has a full days sun with good drainage and clay free soil, if you do strike clay dig well down breaking the clay, deep enough to add a shovel or two of stones or gravel to act as a sump where there would have been a clay pan holding water.This applies to any hole dug for a tree or shrub planted in soil with a clay base. Dahlias will be frost affected now, if remaining in the ground cut back and mulch with compost or straw to protect tubers. If clumps have increased and need to be reduced, do it now by digging up and pulling apart or putting a sharp spade through large clumps removing tubers not needed to be planted somewhere else or given away. Birds in Winter: Winter can be a tough time for birds. I like to scatter a couple of handfuls of wild bird seed on the lawn—once they discover the routine, they quickly return each day. Offering sugar water in a raised spot, ideally sheltered by surrounding foliage, gives birds a sense of safety while they feed. Once they find it, you’ll notice they return regularly for the energy boost. Vegetables: In the vegetable garden where green leafy vegetables and onions will be growing next summer give a dressing of 250 grams per square metre of dolomite lime. If you follow a regular rotation this will ensure that most of the garden receives lime once in three years, permanent crops like rhubarb should be limed every three years as well. Gardens fed annually with compost rather than chemical fertilisers tend to gradually rise the PH level eventually making regular liming unnecessary. Have garlic ready to plant on the shortest day Saturday 21st June. Fruit: New season's bare rooted trees will be in Garden centers this month, preparing the ground in an all day, full sun location to get the best fruiting results. Fruit trees need room to spread so as not to be shaded by neighboring trees then everything depends on the season to bring bee's out to pollinate when in blossom. Cheers Linda.

Gardening in Waitaki June 3rd 2025

Hello winter here in Waitaki, it has been late in getting here on the coast, but the frost cloth and winter woolies are now out and on in those low-lying areas. Pruning: Once trees and shrubs have shed leaves, they are open for inspection. Many ornamental trees need attention, crossing branches, too many branches blocking light from buds once in leaf, height and width reduction. Most trees are pruned in winter while sap is down, and insects/diseases that can potentially invade pruning cuts are dormant as well. In winter, the worst disease is silver leaf, which attacks stone and pip fruit, roses, poplar, willows, and escallonia hedges. It is during cold, wet weather that spores are released, which can then enter the pruning cuts, a reason to avoid pruning on cool, wet days. Spores are not released during dry weather, this is the reason that some susceptible trees prefer a summer prune. Thinning is the removal of an entire branch if two branches are doing the same job. This technique rids the tree of weak and diseased branches and increases light penetration and air movement. Heading back: is shortening the length of a branch back to a bud or the next side branch. Rose pruning is done once rosewood has had enough time to harden. The end of June, July, or even August is not too late. Trim ragged catmint back to the new growth you should be able to see coming through, then dig around or mulch to encourage new roots. Ericas are flowering now, these plants are very hardy and perfect ground covers, over wall spillers, and great as a wide border to narrow down a garden. They usually grow only 6 - 12 inches high and spread 2 - 3 feet. Upright Erica melanthera is one of the prettiest winter-flowering small shrubs, bright pink, 60cm high by 1m wide, fully grown. Leucadendrons are looking wonderful now, perfect for picking and will last for weeks in a vase. Remember not to give them rich compost or fertiliser, they prefer poor soil conditions. Even though we are now in winter, there is plenty on offer to plant; deciduous trees will settle in with a firm stake, and roses do best planted now. If planting evergreen shrubs that look like they have been nursed, get them used to the outside temperatures before planting, or nurse and plant in spring. Plant labels should tell you their hardiness. Sowing seeds: It is too late for seeds to germinate in the garden and continue into winter, however, I have sown cottage flower seeds like poppies, cornflower, and cosmos in seed trays, which are sitting in a well-lit, sheltered place protected by frost cloth, but with the shorter days now I do not expect a lot of progress. If you have more seeds collected during Autumn than you need, please drop them into Robyn at the Resource Recovery Garden corner in Chelmer st. The more locally grown seeds we have, the more locally grown flowers and veg seedlings we can produce next growing season. Powder form fertilisers would be wasted if used while the garden is resting, but compost and well-rotted manure will work as a mulch for plant roots when taken down by worms to be there when needed in early spring. Mulching: If you have a bare garden over winter, opportunistic weeds will germinate during fine days; mulching will prevent this, plus protect not only plant roots but soil as well. If you do not have a green cover crop in, or you've just run out of time to get winter food crops in, put your garden to bed by mulching. Sawdust can be used on wet gardens, straw, shredded garden cut back foliage, or autumn leaves, shredded with the lawn mower can go on dry gardens after a good watering. Any store-bought Lawns getting frost can be left with length to cope with winter, perhaps a last tidy up for those in milder areas, and clippings spread on gardens. Vegetables: On the coast in gardens getting winter sun, sow broad beans, garlic, shallots, and rhubarb. Further inland, a little lime spread and mulched cover will do the job until spring. Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in Waitaki June 28th 2025

Into Another Month, and another stop-start week with King’s Birthday weekend upon us. June marks the time when many gardeners begin to pull back and tuck their gardens in for winter. Once the spent summer growth has been cut back, it's a great idea to add mulch to help insulate the soil and protect plant roots from winter chills. Drainage Check-Up: Recent rainfall has highlighted any poorly draining spots in the garden. If you’ve noticed plants struggling in soggy soil, dig them up and work on improving the site. Often, the issue lies with compacted clay beneath the topsoil. Dig deep down to the clay layer, break it up thoroughly, sprinkle gypsum over it, and add stones or at least three shovels of gravel to create a sump for water drainage. Replant, and your plant should thrive without risk of root rot. Root Cuttings – A Winter Project: This week, I’ve taken root cuttings of Hydrangea paniculata and a few other tricky-to-strike plants. If you’ve had trouble propagating some of your favourites, root cuttings might be the solution. They’re one of the most reliable and cost-effective ways to multiply many perennial and woody plants, especially during the dormant season from June to September. Woody Plants: Keep in mind that many trees are grafted onto different rootstocks, so only take cuttings from non-grafted trees and shrubs. Shrubs: Carefully remove soil from one side of the plant near the base to find healthy, pencil-thick roots. Take 2–6 inch (5–15 cm) root sections and cut them into 2–3 inch (5–7.5 cm) pieces. Use a flat cut on the top and a slanted cut on the bottom to keep track of orientation. Plant the cuttings in a deep pot, raised bed, or directly in a frost-free spot in the garden. Add a little sand to the bottom of each hole and dust the bottom ends with powdered sulfur to help prevent fungal issues. Cover with coarse river sand or fine gravel, and water only when the soil is dry. Perennials: It's often easier to lift the entire plant and select thick, fleshy roots. Take cuttings as above, replant the parent, and water it in well. In 3–4 weeks, cuttings should develop roots, and some may begin to shoot. Once shoots appear, feed with a half-strength liquid fertilizer. Transplant when established. Plants Suitable for Root Cuttings Include: Crabapple, Figs, Hydrangeas, Lilacs, Mock Orange, Poplar, Pussy Willow, Red & Yellow Twig Dogwoods, Old Roses, Snowball Bush, Weeping Willow, Yucca, Aster, Bear’s Breeches, Tall Phlox, Geranium, Globe Thistle, Hollyhocks, Horseradish, Oriental Poppy, Primrose, Rhubarb, Sage, Sea Holly, Perennial Statice, Raspberry, and Blackberry. Winter Garden Maintenance: remove all old hellebore leaves, as the undersides may be harbouring overwintering greenfly. New foliage will soon emerge as the flowers appear in mid-winter. Roses: Clean up all fallen leaves beneath bushes to reduce pest and disease risk. Apply a clean-up spray of lime sulphur to defoliate and treat scale, mites, moss, and lichen. Later in July, after pruning, follow up with a spray of Champion Copper and Conqueror Oil. This timing is ideal as bees, butterflies, and ladybirds are largely absent. Lily Bulbs: Continue planting in raised beds. Don’t allow roots to dry out. Gladioli: Begin early plantings now for blooms in November. Polyanthus: Brighten your garden or entryway with polyanthus in pots or beds. Veggies & Fruit: Coastal areas: Sow broad beans, garlic, shallots, and rhubarb. Colder inland regions: Best to wait—very little can be planted now: Fruit trees & deciduous trees with lichen: Apply a lime sulphur spray to clean them up—but skip apricot trees, as lime sulphur will burn their fruit buds. Cheers, Linda.