Gardening in Waitaki June 24th 2025

Gosh, the weeks are racing by — with the days so short, it’s Friday before I know it! The leaf cleanup will feel endless for some right now. This is the best time of year to make big changes in the garden. If something needs to be shifted or removed, don’t wait. I often find myself clearing a space, then walking around to find something well-established that would be perfect to move into the gap. In my past large garden, I would have made a start on rose pruning — it always took me a few weeks to get through them, and as I pruned, I also cleaned up around them. Once finished, I would spray the lot with a mix of copper and winter oil to seal the cuts and protect against fungal issues. If you’re new to rose pruning, start with a sharp pair of secateurs. Remove anything growing into the middle of the bush; an open centre is required to let in light and air. Make your cuts on an angle just above an outward-facing bud. Cut back any branches crossing over one another, again to an outward-facing bud, and remove old, woody or spindly growth completely. Be sure the crown of the rose is kept clear of compost or soil, and give this area a thorough spray as well. New roses also need pruning, even if they were trimmed before delivery. If you’re planting a new rose where one has previously grown, swap the soil with fresh soil from another part of the garden. Make a planting hole that is a few centimetres larger than the full spread of the roots. This is usually about 60cm (2ft) in diameter and at least 30cm (1ft) deep. Some gardeners have used a cardboard box with the bottom removed to line the hole; by the time the cardboard rots away, the plant has established. Boost plant growth by applying a fertiliser high in nitrogen, such as sulphate of ammonia. Improve soil structure by incorporating some well-rotted manure or organic matter into the backfill soil, then firm this around the roots and water well. Elsewhere in the garden, it’s time to deal with moss and lichen on paths and walkways before they get dangerously slippery. You can use a moss-kill product, but a watering can of diluted household bleach or a sprinkling of an inexpensive laundry powder will also do the job. Once moss has blackened, it can be raked off. Seed sowing Flower seeds for spring and summer: I’ve planted delphiniums, snapdragons, poppies, lupins, and cosmos. Even without a greenhouse, they’ll germinate slowly in a sunny, sheltered spot with a cover of plastic or glass ( with breath spaces) and frost cloth; this will reward you with strong plants come spring. I find winter-started seedlings outperform those sown in spring. Ponds: This is also a good time to give fish ponds some attention. Move your fish to a bucket of pond water, then empty and clean the pond. Water lilies in containers can be repotted now too — they’re hungry plants that love rich soil but need careful setup to prevent fertiliser leaching into the water. Use a base of clean gravel and clay or heavy cardboard and clean gravel, then add manure, slow-release fertiliser, and soil before replanting. Finish with more soil and a thick topping of gravel. Trim back roots if needed to fit the plant back in. Refill the pond, but wait a couple of weeks before returning the fish. Lawns:Moss in lawns is widespread after rain; sulphate of ammonia dissolved in water will deal with the moss. Once the moss blackens, rake it out. Vegie garden update: Along the coast where winters stay mild, things are still growing steadily. Keep rotating your crops — root veg where leafy crops were, and vice versa. Plant peas and buttercrunch lettuce if you have raised beds that get sun all day. Buttercrunch thrives in the cooler months and has such a sweet, tender flavour. The quiet powerhouses of the veg garden are the perennial veg. Now’s the time to mulch generously, feed the soil with compost, leaf mould or forest floor wood trimmings to support asparagus, rhubarb, globe artichokes, strawberries and Welsh onions. Even in the stillness of winter, the garden is deepening, getting ready to surge into life again. Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in Waitaki June 16th 2025

Matariki sky.

The shortest day is next friday, and the sun still beams down on those non-dismal winter days. The Matariki holiday will give us a long weekend—just enough time to catch up on essential garden jobs. There’s plenty to do at this time of year: spreading compost and pea straw, trimming hedges, pruning, chainsawing trees, cutting back perennials, and mowing up the last of the fallen leaves. Once the clean up is done, the garden can rest—and so can we. It won’t be long before spring stirs things to life again. For now, I’m busy sowing seeds and potting up plants in readiness. Even without a large garden to put to bed anymore (whew!), I like to be prepared for that slow seasonal awakening. Sowing Seeds on the Coast: Seed trays need to be under cover with plenty of light.—Germination happens on those sunny days when the ground holds warmth. Once seedlings show two true leaves, prick them out into punnets and keep them protected until the frosts pass. Mist with water only in the morning and only when the potting mix feels dry—this gives the mix time to warm again before the chill of night. Weeds & Self-Seeders: While weeding, you might spot rogue trees and shrubs—bird-sown surprises popping up in odd places. These can become well-established among rhododendrons and camellias before being noticed. It’s best to remove them entirely, not just cut them back, as they’ll reshoot and compete for root space. Look out for self-sown treasures too—always a bonus! If you left polyanthus or violas in the ground, they’ll likely have multiplied. They can be lifted, divided, and replanted now. A sprinkle of dried blood will green them up after transplanting. Camellias and daphnes can also benefit from this boost if they’re looking tired. Sweet peas can be sown now for early spring flowering. Pruning & Trimming: It’s now too late in the year to trim soft-wooded trees and shrubs—wait until spring growth has firmed up. Ivy, however, is an exception. Like wisteria, it can be cut back at any time. If left unchecked, each soft leader can become a thick, woody trunk. Bare branches in winter make it easier to assess deciduous trees and shrubs. Remove overcrowded or crossing branches and consider reducing large limbs that throw excessive shade in summer. Opening up the canopy can brighten the house and improve views. If a tree near the house has outgrown its space, consider replacing it with a smaller variety that still provides structure without dominating. Conifers, in particular, can outgrow their welcome in just a decade. If lower branches are removed, they won’t regrow, and the tree’s form will be permanently altered. To fill a sudden gap from tree removal, try placing a section of manuka screening behind the replacement plant for shelter. Once the new plant fills out, the screen can be taken away. Lawns & Liming: If your winter lawn is underperforming despite regular feeding and watering, try applying lime. This helps to raise the soil pH to around 6 (mildly acidic), promoting stronger grass growth. Vegetable Garden: Garlic Time: The shortest day is garlic planting time. Prepare the bed with manure-rich compost and plant NZ-grown garlic cloves (pointy end up) about 7–8cm deep in a sunny spot. Garlic bulbs form in late spring and early summer, so make sure the soil stays moist during dry spells. Avoid mulching garlic, as soggy conditions can cause cloves to rot. Feed with blood and bone or a liquid fertiliser through the growing season. If you’ve got empty beds, sow a green crop like mustard now. Scatter seed thickly and leave it until spring before digging it in. Cheers, Linda

Gardening in Waitaki June 10th 2025

As we approach the shortest day of the year, there’s still a surprising warmth in the June sun that takes the edge off the morning chill. But once the sun dips below the horizon, there’s no mistaking—we’re deep in winter. https://bestinzealand.co.nz/good-sorts-oamaru-couples-monarch-butterfly-mission-takes-flight/ What a wonderful feature Gordon and Joan Martin received on TV One last week, highlighting their inspiring efforts to support and protect Monarch butterflies here in North Otago. Their dedication is a reminder of the vital role each of us can play in preserving these beautiful creatures. As a community, it's up to us not only to enjoy their presence but also to actively contribute by planting butterfly-friendly flowers and saving local seeds to help sustain their habitat. If you're a seed collector with more seeds than you need, consider sharing them with the community by dropping them off to Robyn at the Garden Corner, located at our Resource Recovery Park. For several years now, Gordon’s Swan plants have been available there, and we're pleased to say this will continue into the next growing season. Rogue Trees and Shrubs: Now that deciduous trees and shrubs have lost their leaves, gardeners may begin to notice rogue trees that birds have introduced to the garden. Some of these may have taken root among established shrubs like rhododendrons and camellias, becoming quite entrenched and difficult to remove. It’s best to remove these unwanted trees completely if possible, as they grow stronger each year and can interfere with the roots of your desired plants. In coastal areas, it’s often possible to transplant these rogue trees and shrubs at this time of year, provided their root systems aren’t too disturbed. This is also a great time to lift and replant many self-seeded plants such as hellebores, lupins, poppies, pansies, violas, forget-me-nots, and primulas. If you have polyanthas left in the ground from last year, you’ll likely find that they’ve multiplied. These can be easily divided and replanted. After transplanting, a light dressing of dried blood will help green up both polyanthas and primroses, giving them a strong start for the season. Roses: New seasons roses are in Garden centers now, if planting make sure it is in a place that has a full days sun with good drainage and clay free soil, if you do strike clay dig well down breaking the clay, deep enough to add a shovel or two of stones or gravel to act as a sump where there would have been a clay pan holding water.This applies to any hole dug for a tree or shrub planted in soil with a clay base. Dahlias will be frost affected now, if remaining in the ground cut back and mulch with compost or straw to protect tubers. If clumps have increased and need to be reduced, do it now by digging up and pulling apart or putting a sharp spade through large clumps removing tubers not needed to be planted somewhere else or given away. Birds in Winter: Winter can be a tough time for birds. I like to scatter a couple of handfuls of wild bird seed on the lawn—once they discover the routine, they quickly return each day. Offering sugar water in a raised spot, ideally sheltered by surrounding foliage, gives birds a sense of safety while they feed. Once they find it, you’ll notice they return regularly for the energy boost. Vegetables: In the vegetable garden where green leafy vegetables and onions will be growing next summer give a dressing of 250 grams per square metre of dolomite lime. If you follow a regular rotation this will ensure that most of the garden receives lime once in three years, permanent crops like rhubarb should be limed every three years as well. Gardens fed annually with compost rather than chemical fertilisers tend to gradually rise the PH level eventually making regular liming unnecessary. Have garlic ready to plant on the shortest day Saturday 21st June. Fruit: New season's bare rooted trees will be in Garden centers this month, preparing the ground in an all day, full sun location to get the best fruiting results. Fruit trees need room to spread so as not to be shaded by neighboring trees then everything depends on the season to bring bee's out to pollinate when in blossom. Cheers Linda.

Gardening in Waitaki June 3rd 2025

Hello winter here in Waitaki, it has been late in getting here on the coast, but the frost cloth and winter woolies are now out and on in those low-lying areas. Pruning: Once trees and shrubs have shed leaves, they are open for inspection. Many ornamental trees need attention, crossing branches, too many branches blocking light from buds once in leaf, height and width reduction. Most trees are pruned in winter while sap is down, and insects/diseases that can potentially invade pruning cuts are dormant as well. In winter, the worst disease is silver leaf, which attacks stone and pip fruit, roses, poplar, willows, and escallonia hedges. It is during cold, wet weather that spores are released, which can then enter the pruning cuts, a reason to avoid pruning on cool, wet days. Spores are not released during dry weather, this is the reason that some susceptible trees prefer a summer prune. Thinning is the removal of an entire branch if two branches are doing the same job. This technique rids the tree of weak and diseased branches and increases light penetration and air movement. Heading back: is shortening the length of a branch back to a bud or the next side branch. Rose pruning is done once rosewood has had enough time to harden. The end of June, July, or even August is not too late. Trim ragged catmint back to the new growth you should be able to see coming through, then dig around or mulch to encourage new roots. Ericas are flowering now, these plants are very hardy and perfect ground covers, over wall spillers, and great as a wide border to narrow down a garden. They usually grow only 6 - 12 inches high and spread 2 - 3 feet. Upright Erica melanthera is one of the prettiest winter-flowering small shrubs, bright pink, 60cm high by 1m wide, fully grown. Leucadendrons are looking wonderful now, perfect for picking and will last for weeks in a vase. Remember not to give them rich compost or fertiliser, they prefer poor soil conditions. Even though we are now in winter, there is plenty on offer to plant; deciduous trees will settle in with a firm stake, and roses do best planted now. If planting evergreen shrubs that look like they have been nursed, get them used to the outside temperatures before planting, or nurse and plant in spring. Plant labels should tell you their hardiness. Sowing seeds: It is too late for seeds to germinate in the garden and continue into winter, however, I have sown cottage flower seeds like poppies, cornflower, and cosmos in seed trays, which are sitting in a well-lit, sheltered place protected by frost cloth, but with the shorter days now I do not expect a lot of progress. If you have more seeds collected during Autumn than you need, please drop them into Robyn at the Resource Recovery Garden corner in Chelmer st. The more locally grown seeds we have, the more locally grown flowers and veg seedlings we can produce next growing season. Powder form fertilisers would be wasted if used while the garden is resting, but compost and well-rotted manure will work as a mulch for plant roots when taken down by worms to be there when needed in early spring. Mulching: If you have a bare garden over winter, opportunistic weeds will germinate during fine days; mulching will prevent this, plus protect not only plant roots but soil as well. If you do not have a green cover crop in, or you've just run out of time to get winter food crops in, put your garden to bed by mulching. Sawdust can be used on wet gardens, straw, shredded garden cut back foliage, or autumn leaves, shredded with the lawn mower can go on dry gardens after a good watering. Any store-bought Lawns getting frost can be left with length to cope with winter, perhaps a last tidy up for those in milder areas, and clippings spread on gardens. Vegetables: On the coast in gardens getting winter sun, sow broad beans, garlic, shallots, and rhubarb. Further inland, a little lime spread and mulched cover will do the job until spring. Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in Waitaki June 28th 2025

Into Another Month, and another stop-start week with King’s Birthday weekend upon us. June marks the time when many gardeners begin to pull back and tuck their gardens in for winter. Once the spent summer growth has been cut back, it's a great idea to add mulch to help insulate the soil and protect plant roots from winter chills. Drainage Check-Up: Recent rainfall has highlighted any poorly draining spots in the garden. If you’ve noticed plants struggling in soggy soil, dig them up and work on improving the site. Often, the issue lies with compacted clay beneath the topsoil. Dig deep down to the clay layer, break it up thoroughly, sprinkle gypsum over it, and add stones or at least three shovels of gravel to create a sump for water drainage. Replant, and your plant should thrive without risk of root rot. Root Cuttings – A Winter Project: This week, I’ve taken root cuttings of Hydrangea paniculata and a few other tricky-to-strike plants. If you’ve had trouble propagating some of your favourites, root cuttings might be the solution. They’re one of the most reliable and cost-effective ways to multiply many perennial and woody plants, especially during the dormant season from June to September. Woody Plants: Keep in mind that many trees are grafted onto different rootstocks, so only take cuttings from non-grafted trees and shrubs. Shrubs: Carefully remove soil from one side of the plant near the base to find healthy, pencil-thick roots. Take 2–6 inch (5–15 cm) root sections and cut them into 2–3 inch (5–7.5 cm) pieces. Use a flat cut on the top and a slanted cut on the bottom to keep track of orientation. Plant the cuttings in a deep pot, raised bed, or directly in a frost-free spot in the garden. Add a little sand to the bottom of each hole and dust the bottom ends with powdered sulfur to help prevent fungal issues. Cover with coarse river sand or fine gravel, and water only when the soil is dry. Perennials: It's often easier to lift the entire plant and select thick, fleshy roots. Take cuttings as above, replant the parent, and water it in well. In 3–4 weeks, cuttings should develop roots, and some may begin to shoot. Once shoots appear, feed with a half-strength liquid fertilizer. Transplant when established. Plants Suitable for Root Cuttings Include: Crabapple, Figs, Hydrangeas, Lilacs, Mock Orange, Poplar, Pussy Willow, Red & Yellow Twig Dogwoods, Old Roses, Snowball Bush, Weeping Willow, Yucca, Aster, Bear’s Breeches, Tall Phlox, Geranium, Globe Thistle, Hollyhocks, Horseradish, Oriental Poppy, Primrose, Rhubarb, Sage, Sea Holly, Perennial Statice, Raspberry, and Blackberry. Winter Garden Maintenance: remove all old hellebore leaves, as the undersides may be harbouring overwintering greenfly. New foliage will soon emerge as the flowers appear in mid-winter. Roses: Clean up all fallen leaves beneath bushes to reduce pest and disease risk. Apply a clean-up spray of lime sulphur to defoliate and treat scale, mites, moss, and lichen. Later in July, after pruning, follow up with a spray of Champion Copper and Conqueror Oil. This timing is ideal as bees, butterflies, and ladybirds are largely absent. Lily Bulbs: Continue planting in raised beds. Don’t allow roots to dry out. Gladioli: Begin early plantings now for blooms in November. Polyanthus: Brighten your garden or entryway with polyanthus in pots or beds. Veggies & Fruit: Coastal areas: Sow broad beans, garlic, shallots, and rhubarb. Colder inland regions: Best to wait—very little can be planted now: Fruit trees & deciduous trees with lichen: Apply a lime sulphur spray to clean them up—but skip apricot trees, as lime sulphur will burn their fruit buds. Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in Waitaki May 20th 2025

japanese maple osakazuki in my past garden.

The end of mellow May leads us into a new month bringing different gardening challenges with the start of winter chills. Lack of wind means all leaves haven't been tugged from trees, and soil has not dried-out yet. Frost will soon play a part in robbing the soil of moisture from soil so keep an eye on maple trees. if leaves shrivel quickly during colour change it's an indication of root dryness. Rose flowering is coming to an end, but don't cut spent flower heads off, leave all types of roses to make seed which will harden wood before the big prune in july. New season's bare-root roses should be in Garden centers. If you want to plant roses, prepare the ground now by digging in old stable manure or bagged rose mix. Bare-rooted, winter-planted roses are less likely to suffer from planting stress than roses planted in spring. Re-pot container-grown buxus if they look pot-bound. Buxus root growth is prolific, and they don't seem to suffer from the removal of half a root ball. I replaced the old growing medium with half potting mix and sifted soil. Winter colour in pots, plant polyanthus, pansies, primulas, snapdragons, and wallflowers. I have just planted out a garden with wall flowers and forget- me- not, both will fill out from now on and should be in full bloom towards the end of winter. Lawns: The unusual autumn rain we have had has kept lawns green, but growth should now be slowing down; however, lawn mowers will still be on the go until the last of the leaves. Next time it rains, sprinkle some lime over the lawns for a boost before they stop growing. Gardeners in the past preferred lime just before the first frost because the soil then has all winter to absorb the lime, but lime is never spread on a dry, wilted lawn or a soggy, wet lawn. I like to follow the old, tried and tested ways that get results. Keep in mind for the next growing season, lawn grass grows best on a nutrient ratio of 3 parts nitrogen, 1 part phosphorus, and 2 parts potassium. (12-4-8). While this is an ideal ratio, you may not be able to find the exact ratio in a lawn fertilizer; a close match will do. If ground pH is below 6 on the pH scale, lime will make a marked improvement in growing conditions come spring. One sign of a low soil pH is the presence of excess moss and weeds in your garden or lawn. Moss and weeds are acid-loving plants, though not a guaranteed indicator; an excess of moss and weeds is a good sign that you should raise the soil pH. Another sign that you need to raise soil pH is when fertilizer doesn’t seem to be doing its job. Acidic soil prevents fertilizer from functioning properly. Vegetables: On the coast, sow broad beans, garlic, shallots, and rhubarb. In colder areas, nothing much can be planted without protection, but covering bare soil with a thick layer of mulch will keep the soil from remaining wet and frozen over the winter months. Fruit: Bare-rooted fruit trees will be arriving in garden centers soon. ask now if they will be stocking the required trees and have them put aside on arrival. Ground can be prepared now for planting fruit trees. choose an open, sunny position, sheltered from strong winds. Fruit trees will grow in a wide range of soil types as long as there is good drainage. Plums and pear rootstock tolerate heavier soils than most other fruit trees. Using good quality compost will improve water retention in lighter soils and improve drainage in heavier soils, as well as improving fertility. Pruning of newly planted fruit trees will not take place until trees have branched. During the early stages of tree development, the main goal is to develop the shape and framework that will support heavy crops of fruit. Pruning: Apple trees: After initial shaping of apple trees, the only pruning necessary is the removal of excess twiggy growth. I have found that pruning water shoots (new growth) during winter will only stimulate growth, causing unwanted growth the following season, but summer pruning on established trees will cause the tree to grow less new wood during the growing season. Apple trees produce fruit on spurs (short stubby growths attached to main branches. They continue producing on the same spurs for several years. Pears and cherry fruit also grow on spurs and require similar treatment. Apricot: Prune apricot trees in late winter or early spring as the new leaves and flowers begin to open, or straight after fruiting. Newly planted apricots can be pruned soon after planting. Remove all damaged or broken shoots and limbs and all branches with a narrow crotch (those that grow up more than out) and all branches that are within 18 inches of the ground. Shorten last year’s main branches to about 30 inches. Peach and nectarine: These trees flower on new wood made the previous summer. prune hard to encourage new growth; otherwise, fruit will be produced further and further out on the branches each year. Flower buds are plump, while growth buds are flatter. Plum trees produce fruit on the same spurs for several years. Once a shape has been established, it requires little pruning because excessive pruning can overstimulate tree growth at the expense of fruit. Remove vertical branching and water sprouts regularly. Look at a tree, and it is easy to distinguish the water sprouts from the regular growth. They grow straight up from the canopy branches and trunk, and the branches are thin and scraggly in appearance. A heavy hand when pruning in winter will increase the number of water sprouts on the tree. When pruning plum trees in the winter, only remove 20 percent of the growth from the previous year. Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in Waitaki May 14th 2025

As we settle into autumn, it brings us shorter days and the mellow atmosphere of May. I recently moved to a property with a low-maintenance garden already in place, but as any passionate gardener would, I’ve begun rearranging and removing plants that I felt were not for me. While I appreciate foliage, I’ve always seen it as a complement to flowering plants; never have I been without a picking garden; I intend to have one here. Creating a low-maintenance picking garden without making it too labor-intensive is the challenge. Fortunately, years of gardening with all the successes and the inevitable mistakes have taught me what works best with minimal effort. This experience has been invaluable not only in my gardens but also in the many I’ve designed for clients and plan to design in the future. This new garden is covered with weed mat and chunky bark mulch. While this is excellent for suppressing weeds in open areas, it has its drawbacks; it slows plant growth, keeps soil soggy in exposed spots, and prevents moisture retention in dry areas, especially under eaves. To optimize planting in such a garden, a few adjustments are necessary. For dry areas under eaves, start by raking the bark off, then remove the weed mat. Soak the soil thoroughly and apply a layer of manure-enriched compost. Plant low-growing shrubs or perennials, then reapply the bark mulch. Bark breaks down slowly and can deplete soil nitrogen, but the compost will counteract this; weeds will be few, and soil will retain moisture if kept up. In wetter areas where the weed mat cannot be entirely removed, cut a crisscross pattern in the mat where you wish to plant, fold back the corners, and dig holes larger than the root ball of your plants. After planting, leave the folded mat corners tucked back, allowing air circulation. Cover the surface with bark again. This technique helps regulate soil moisture and promotes healthier plant growth. Gardens, like all living spaces, evolve. Understanding how to work with existing elements while making them suit your vision is key — a principle I have always applied in my designs and those I create for others. Dahlias: Cut back, dig, and divide for late spring planting. Label clumps by color and store in cardboard boxes in a dry shed. Fill gaps with winter annuals like wallflowers and poppies. Ericas: Trim spent summer flowers to maintain compact growth. Avoid lime and fertilizer; they thrive in dry, sunny soil. Ground cover varieties are low-maintenance and budding for winter color. Bearded Iris and Freesia: Keep compost and mulch away from exposed rhizomes and bulbs to prevent baking in the sun. Perennials: Divide overgrown clumps to fill gaps or pot up for later planting. Cover beds with compost to encourage root growth and insulate through winter. Peony Roses: Plant or shift this month, taking care not to damage tuber shoots. Cuttings: Move trays to a light, warm spot for winter growth and water less frequently, at the start of the day.Tree Wrenching: Begin wrenching trees for relocation by digging around half the root mass, backfilling where roots have been cut with peat, compost, or sifted soil to promote new feeder roots. Water regularly. Pot Plants: Reduce watering and move away from cold glass as night temperatures drop. Fruit: strawberries. Plant now in raised beds for better drainage and add manure-rich compost. Raspberries: Cut back fruiting stems by half after fruiting; cut two-year-old canes to the ground. Apples: Pick for storage to prevent bird damage. Delay pruning pip fruit until next month. Vegetables: Plant snow peas, pak choi, kale, broccoli, cauliflower, and beetroot. Sow baby spinach in kitchen window containers for winter greens. This is the last month to sow carrot seeds; use onion sets rather than seeds now for better results. Clear finished summer vegetables or dig in leafy crops. Add manure-enriched compost and lime to heavily cropped soil, and leave the soil exposed to winter frost. Lawn Care: With lawns remaining moist and soft, and frost approaching, raise mower blades to maintain a longer grass length to protect your lawn roots as growth slows. Note: I have now just caught up on my Garden design work. If you need advice or help to plan a garden, contact me. Phone: 0274430256 Email: linda.lsw@gmail.com Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in Waitaki May 7th 2025

What a difference a rain makes during Autumn; however, some areas will still need a good soak, as it is the shallow-rooted trees and shrubs that need help before winter. I have lost aged maples because of dry Autumn conditions, so I now always give them all a good soak before winter. Other shallow-rooted shrubs that may be looking for a good soaking are rhododendrons, azaleas, camellias, daphne, hydrangeas, lilacs, cornus (dogwood), buxus, and viburnums.   Ready compost should be going down fast onto gardens to make room for autumn leaves, annual weeds, and lawn clippings to refill the bins for autumn compost.Potting seedlings: I have been potting up well-grown seedlings before the nights get colder, because they are straight from seed trays frost cloth has gone on at night. I remove it on sunny days but once we start getting frosts it will remain on until spring. Remove water trays from pots now, soil in pots should stay damp from now on. Potted plants should never be waterlogged throughout winter, as this will lead to plant roots freezing and rotting. This is a great time to make new perennial beds or reorganise existing beds, with perennial clumps increasing in size annually, they soon overfill a space. Lift overgrown clumps, break up and replant some of the youngest growth from the perimeter. Healthy vigorous plants can be reduced by putting a sharp spade in where you would like a reduction, then lifting the cut portion out without disturbing the remaining plant. I had to do this almost annually in my past large garden with asters, phlox, aubretia, small grasses, hostas, and herbs like sage, thyme, and lemon balm.  Rockery plants can be divided now as well. Once plants have been sectioned and rearranged, cover the soil around plants with compost to encourage new root growth, Compost also helps to keep perennial beds warmer through the colder months. All old leaves from my hellebores  (winter roses) have now been removed, they are budding up for a winter display, a fortnightly liquid feed can be given now if you feel they need boosting. Further in land it would be advisable to leave some top growth on to give frost protection to soft new growth, once hardened remove all leaves to display flowers. Lilies, this is the main time to shift or divide old, overgrown clumps of lilies. Be careful not to break the fleshy scales and to retain all the basal roots. Don't pull the old stems away from the bulb as it leaves a hole where water can enter and cause rot, just cut old stems short and bend. Never allow Lilly bulbs to dry out while out of the ground. I plant lilies on a little river sand and cover with compost, which has had blood and bone added. May is the planting month for tulips  bulbs should be in retail outlets when they open, plant them at least 8 inches (20cm) deep in a  well drained sunny spot . Vegetables: Continue planting strawberry plants, raising the beds where drainage is suspect, and adding manure-rich compost. There is still a good choice of veg seedlings on offer for planting before the soil gets too cold, warm autumn soil gets roots off to a good start before growth slows. Fruit: Feijoas are plumping up and our NZ cranberries (myrtus ugni) are ripe for eating, also figs should be ready along with walnuts and hazelnuts  so still a lot of gathering happening. Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in Waitaki 3oth April 2025

Nature has been kind to us. We enjoyed some lovely days over Easter and the school holidays. The autumn colours are simply stunning, becoming even more vivid as we head into May. In the garden, winter preparations will be well underway. Summer-flowering perennials and annuals are still being cut back. Soft plant material can go straight onto the compost, while tougher, woody stems are better shredded or discarded. The more organic matter we can return to the soil, the healthier our gardens will be. Now is the perfect time to sow spring-flowering seeds. Early sowing gives plants a head start, and seedlings, nurtured through winter, will grow stronger than new seedlings purchased in spring. Although top growth slows down over winter, root systems continue developing underground. Seeds to sow directly outside now: Alyssum, aquilegia, calendula, cornflower, perennial lupins, statice, stock, and sweet peas. Seeds to sow under cover: Antirrhinum (snapdragon), dianthus, pansy, viola, poppy, scabious, sweet William, polyanthus, primrose, and primulas. If you haven't yet lifted your gladioli corms, do it soon. After cleaning and drying them, dust with flowers of sulphur before storing them in old pantyhose or paper bags, never plastic. Tall asters, which have been flowering beautifully, will now be flopping about without support. Make a note to cut back their new growth by half at the end of September; this will encourage bushier growth rather than tall, leggy stems. Asters also tend to exhaust the soil, so it’s important to divide clumps regularly once they finish flowering. Leave hydrangeas to complete their wonderful autumn show. I've been taking hardwood cuttings lately, as I can never have enough of these beautiful plants! Hydrangea cutting tips: Choose non-flowering shoots from the base or sides of a mature plant. Select cuttings in the morning, 5–6 inches (12.7–15.2 cm) long, cutting 2 inches (5.1 cm) below a leaf node. Remove lower leaves, keeping the top pair, and trim these by half to encourage rooting. Dip the base of each cutting in rooting hormone (liquid or powder). Plant into a mix of 1 part potting mix or peat moss to 1 part river sand, making sure the mix is damp. Insert cuttings about 2 inches deep and place them in a sheltered, lightly shaded spot outdoors. Cuttings usually root in 2–3 weeks, depending on conditions. Roses: As roses and other plants wind down for the season, diseases like black spot, mildew, and rust can appear—this is quite natural at this stage of the year. Lawns: With frosts on the way, lawns will begin slowing down. Apply a dressing of lime now to keep them healthy over winter and reap the benefits come spring. Try to stay off wet lawns as much as possible to prevent soil compaction, which can cause bare patches. May is also the last chance to treat for grass grub before they hibernate—remember to water in granules after application. Vegetables: Pumpkins should now be fully ripe. I like to line mine up along a sunny wall out of the rain to dry and finish ripening. If they sound hollow when tapped, they're ready to harvest. Wet soil brings out snails and slugs, so protect young seedlings by using clear plastic bottles as cloches—simply remove the caps and cut off the bases. These mini greenhouses also help keep seedlings warm on chilly nights. Easter or Anzac Day are traditional times for sowing broad beans, but it's still fine to plant them now. Along the coast, take advantage of the warm soil to sow or plant: leeks, turnips, broad beans, silver beet, spinach, cabbage, cauliflower, peas, beetroot, and broccoli. Fruit: Now’s a good time to remove dead wood from stone fruit trees like plums, nectarines, and peaches. If you're thinking about planting fruit trees, bagged plants available now will have the whole winter to establish strong root systems. Otherwise, bare-rooted trees will be hitting garden centres in June and July. Cheers, Linda

Gardening in Waitaki April 23rd 2025

Autumn in our Public Gardens:

The dampness continues in Waitaki as leaves fall, gardens and lawns are still holding green and should continue to do so a little longer if moisture is kept up. Summer potted annuals will be looking tired now, but deadheading and foliar feeding will keep them flowering through autumn. Here on the coast, we can still enjoy colour during winter if bedding plants are prepared now. The idea is to utilize the warmth from now on to encourage individually potted plants to bud, and harden for planting before frosts get heavy. Bedding plants that respond well to this method are pansy, viola, polyanthus, wallflower, stock, calendula, and primula malacoides. It is so worth taking the time to pot individual young seedlings into single pots for root development and to become acclimatized to early winter conditions rather than buying plants that have been forced into flower. I place these pots on trays and store them in a well-lit, shady place until frosts begin, then the trays are put in a sunny spot to bud up. Keep dahlia deadheading up to encourage a last vibrant show, but leave roses to make seed heads now. Rust is always a problem on roses in autumn because all resistance will be going into seed heads and hardening wood. Strip affected leaves from bushes as well as those on the ground and burn them. Carnations can be layered now, pin the center of a stem down under the soil while still attached to the mother plant, with the flower end exposed, and roots should form along the buried stem. Once rooted, cut from the mother plant and pot up to grow on before planting out in lime-sweetened soil. This layering method can be applied to many herbs, plants, and shrubs. Lawns. There should be a lot of new lawns being sown, don't worry about annual weeds appearing as the grass germinates, most will disappear after the first mow. All lawn weed sprays are too strong for new grass. Birds are after grass grub in lawns now, while grubs are feeding on grass roots close to the surface, you have until the end of May to deal with grass grub, after that they tunnel down too deep to be affected by the granules. Fruit: This is proving a good season for apples, quince, pears, and walnuts. The more I read about the health benefits of eating walnuts, I feel we should all have access to a tree, or maybe more walnut crops being planted for future generations. The East Coast is said to be the preferred place for growing walnuts, they need a dry climate, with a high summer temperature and winter chilling (down to -10ºC). Walnuts are self-pollinating, but the more trees you have, the better the pollination rate. Young walnut trees won’t be producing at economic levels until about Year 8. Vegetable Gardens will be ready to plant out new crops for the cooler seasons, root veg seeds will only germinate well while the ground is still warm. Corn and pumpkins should be coming to an end now and tomato crops almost exhausted. Water tomatoes early in the day to ensure plants are dry going into the night. Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in Waitaki April 15th 2025

Easter  break soon and North Otago will be glowing in Autumn splendor " A second spring when every leaf is a flower "   (Albert Camus If the weather holds, it will be a joy to be outside in the garden for many, I am sure. Because I have spent a good deal of my time doing that during the year, Easter break has become a time when I catch up with family. But then it was back on the job again, leaf rake and blower in hand!! Right now I am dealing with a new garden of someone else's planting after another shift, so I am doing a lot of viewing and thinking. Compost bins will be filling fast with leaves and grass clippings, adding manure and ready compost, then wetting between layers will get things decomposing while there is still warmth. Soil that is expected to produce year after year to ensure adequate growth needs a helping hand, just as farmland does. While composts and manures must be accorded their place in soil management, they are inadequate to ensure proper mineral nutrition of plants but can be supplemented by fertilisers during the growing season. Generally speaking, stable and poultry manure contain practically all the elements required, particularly Nitrogen, phosphate, and potash in a natural organic form, but manure too fresh can cause rank growth, so all the more reason to break it down with composting. As I mentioned last week, plants that will not tolerate phosphate fertiliser are Leucadendrons, Proteas, Banksia, and Erica. Dried Blood is high in nitrogen and is an easy way to replenish the nitrogen content in the soil. Plants like Polyanthus, Primulas, and Cyclamen love it and will flourish when you add dried blood to their diet. 100% Pure and Natural. Trim seeding flower heads from hebes to stop them becoming leggy with foliage only on top and bare woody branches below. During a dry autumn spell, gardens respond well to a deep, gentle soaking, especially around maples and rhododendrons but with rain being forecast, it may be a job you don't need to do. Lily bulbs will become available this month and can be planted from now until June as can all other spring bulbs apart from tulips, they are best planted during May. Vegetables  Time to dig up and divide Rhubarb crowns, mixing in heaps of compost before replanting , and a good time for sowing spinach, Snap Peas and spring onions. Fill the top of a shallow pot with Spring onions and pull them as they’re needed. Harvest Pumpkins now and remember not to remove the stalk from the Pumpkin, this stops it from rotting.   fruit: I would be harvesting apples and quince and gathering walnuts in my past large garden this week and would surely come across the odd not-found Easter egg among plants after the big Easter egg hunt in the garden. Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in Waitaki 9th April 2025

More rain this week with a temperature drop — the first frost on the coast can't be far away. It’s that waiting time of year again — waiting for the deciduous trees and shrubs to put on their spectacular autumn show before leaf drop, waiting for plants to finish flowering so they can be back. Roses: Also waiting for the roses to set seed. It’s tempting to want to tidy roses up now, but resist the urge to deadhead. As untidy as they may look, it's best to leave them until the proper pruning time in July. When a spent bloom sets seed, the plant continues drawing sap upward to feed and develop the seeds. While this is happening, the bud shoots along the stem will remain dormant, as sap bypasses them branch wood is hardening. If you remove the seed heads now, the plant redirects sap into new growth which will be too soft to survive winter. For now, the best thing to do with roses is to remove and dispose of any diseased leaves from the plant and surrounding ground. Follow this with a spray of Guild or Super Shield to help prevent the overwintering of rust, black spot, and mildew. Now is a good time to move camellias, rhododendrons, and conifers, as long as they’re still a manageable size. If wanting to shift larger specimens, trenching now in preparation for shifting during winter would be the way to go. Trenching... dig down around one half of the root ball, cutting through feeding roots, then backfill with compost for new feeding roots to establish. The other untouched side of the rootball will keep sustaining the shrub or tree until the time to relocate it. Get the last weed spraying done if needed. Driveways, paved areas, and fence lines. Choose a warm, dry afternoon when the weeds are thirsty. Any new weed seeds that germinate will likely be taken care of by the frost, so that’s it for the weed spraying until spring. In the glasshouse, start increasing light by removing any shading and reduce watering now that growth is slowing down. Lawns: If damp conditions continue, now is the time to put down grass grub granules. The grubs are actively feeding on grass roots until May, then they go dormant and reappear as night beetles around November. There’s also still time to de-thatch lawns and resow any bare patches. The soil is still warm enough to get a good strike, but not for much longer, as nights are cooling quickly. I like to give struggling lawns a dressing of sifted compost — about half a bucket per square metre — and work it in gently with the back of a rake and mow without a catcher often to add humus. This improves both light and compacted soils. If your soil is especially compacted, add some gypsum to the compost for a better result. Vegetables & Fruit: There’s still time to sow a green crop once space becomes available in the veg garden. Dig in any vegetables that have gone to seed and any annual weeds before they seed — all great for building humus in the soil. Keep planting winter vegetables. Cover any pumpkins still growing if a frost is forecast . Apply cleanup sprays to all fruit trees and fruiting shrubs that have shown signs of leaf spot. Super Copper or Nature’s Way Fungus Spray works well. Citrus trees with leaf or fruit spot can also be treated with Super Copper. Cheers, Linda

Gardening in Waitaki March 26th 2025

A few warm days this week in North Otago, with rain never far away. The Waitaki Valley is glowing gold beside its stunning aqua lakes—a true blessing. Leaf fall has begun, so it’s time to rake, collect, and start making leaf mulch that will decompose over winter. It is simply made with fallen, dampened leaves left to decompose separately from the rest of your compost. Mowing over leaves breaks them down to decompose quicker.

Now is also the perfect moment to assess the garden for trimming, shifting, and nurturing before winter sets in. Collect dry seeds and take hardwood cuttings while the soil is still warm enough for them to settle and root. This is also a great time to plant well-established shrubs, as their roots will anchor before the frosts arrive Look for runners on low-growing shrubs and climbers like jasmine, honeysuckle, and clematis—pot them up now for planting in spring. Native seedlings often sprout among shrubs or gravel; these can also be potted up and nurtured through winter. Lavatera and buddleia benefit from a good cutback now to keep them bushy through winter. Geraniums should also be tidied up—remove old stems and accumulated leaves where pests like whiteflies may be hiding. Further inland, leave geraniums intact but take cuttings as a precaution against frost damage. Late sweet pea sowings have begun to emerge. They will hold steady through winter and take off in spring. As heavy feeders, they thrive best in rotated planting areas, but if replanted in the same spot, enrich the soil with stable manure for a long flowering season. Hellebores dry out easily at this time of year, so be sure to keep them watered and well-fed with blood and bone, manure, or slow-release fertilizer. Baby hellebores growing around the mother plant can be potted up now, though they take about three years from seed to bloom. Lawns will be wet from recent rain and autumn dew, so wait for proper drainage before mowing. Raising the mower height encourages deep-rooted growth, resulting in a healthier, more resilient lawn that also supports local wildlife. Fruit & Vegetables Codling moth caterpillars are on the move from trees—trap them now by wrapping corrugated cardboard (ridges inward) around tree trunks. Once the harvest is over, remove and destroy the cardboard to reduce infestations. Continue sowing onion, radish, and spinach seeds. On the coast, plant cabbage, celery, and winter lettuce; further inland, opt for broad beans, cabbage, and spinach. Buttercrunch lettuce is an excellent choice now, as it continues to grow well into winter. Cheers, Linda

Gardening in Waitaki 2025

More rain as we move into autumn, for those who have sown an Autumn lawn it will be just what is needed but for those grain crops still to harvest not so good, tomorrow will hopefully be another warm autumn day. With nights cooling and days shortening it will not be long before the major leaf drop and Gardeners with rakes in hand. Lift branches on large spreading trees to let more light on gardens and lawns, trim back climbers like wisteria, jasmine, and honeysuckle, trim hedges/shrubs, Keep deadheading dahlia, petunias, and geraniums to keep them flowering through until the first frost. Continue to remove spent summer annuals so the ground can be worked ready for winter flowering annuals like primulas, wall flowers, polyantha, pansies & violas. Fork in some compost and wet beds well before replanting. Be on the lookout for useful self-sown seedlings like foxglove, lupin, cineraria, hollyhock, and primula melodies, I am finding quite a few of them, they can be transplanted now to settle in before winter. Peony roses are on offer now, they are worth planting with their big showy blooms taking over from the spring rhododendron displays, be careful when planting not to disturb the new shoots (eyes) forming. A peony root to be planted should contain at least 3 eyes that will eventually become stems. A root with only 1 or 2 eyes will still grow, but it will take longer to flower, they kike a good winter chilling so roots should be planted relatively close to the soil surface; only about 2-3 inches deep. Plant with the eyes facing upwards and the roots spread out. Peonies prefer sunny, well-drained, slightly acidic soil and benefit from compost added when planting, they can remain in the same spot for upwards of 70 years. Lift gladioli now and store them in a dry place, if left in the ground they may be attacked by pests. Empty my compost areas in readiness for all the incoming leaves to start again by layering lawn clippings, a good amount of animal manure and organic matter from garden clippings, and moisture and oxygen to create the necessary bacteria to start things working. Piling in grass clippings without layering is only going to suppress the oxygen needed. With the heat and rain compost will be well cooking before winter. Trees, shrubs, plants, and bulbs take so much from the soil during each growing season, that sooner than later gardens need more than Man-made fertilizers which work by feeding the plants and promoting growth and in doing so deplete the soil of humus. Lawns: Get new lawns sown now, the cooler nights and mornings are allowing the moisture to remain longer after watering and a strike will happen pretty fast. Vegetables: Good growth is still happening with the rain we have been getting, pumpkins and corn should be ready to harvest soon, dry off pumpkin and squash skins before storing them in a cool dry place. This is a good time for planting above ground annual crops that produce their seeds outside like lettuce, spinach, celery, broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, and grain green crops for digging in. Cheers, Linda.

Layering compost.

Gardening in Waitaki 4th March 2025

What a marvelous rain on Monday night, and then more showers today. Rain like that will keep autumn back a little longer as March is usually the ripening season, when seeds ripen, and growth slows with the dryness. However there will be no holding autumn back too long and If possible, take the opportunity to slow down along with the garden and enjoy the mellow days. This is also the time for the autumn flower display to begin—autumn crocus bursts into bloom alongside nerines, chrysanthemums are budding, and some spring bulbs are already pushing through. I spend a lot of time deadheading and cutting back, and the perennials pruned last month have already bushed up again, filling in gaps. This is a good time to mention the pruning and shaping of shrubs. Shrubs that flowered on the previous year’s growth—such as rhododendrons, camellias, azaleas, ceanothus, forsythia, and coleonema (Breath of Heaven)—can be reduced in size now if necessary. There is still enough growing time left for them to recover before winter. In colder areas, all flowering shrubs should be trimmed as soon as flowering finishes, except for hydrangeas, which benefit from leaving spent flower heads on to protect new shoots through winter. Shrubs that flower on the current year’s growth—such as daisy bushes, rosemary, and fuchsia—are best left with their top growth intact until spring. Soil care is important now, following the intense heat and summer flowering and heavy rain the addition of organic matter—either dug in or left as a top mulch for worms to carry down to roots will help condition the soil for next spring. For some gardens, I need to wait until autumn leaves have been raked off or raked aside to allow a green crop to be sown before adding compost, blue lupin, mustard, or alfalfa, which will naturally enrich the soil with nitrogen. Dig it in before flowering, or simply cover it with compost before applying the final layer of pea straw if needed. Lawns: Grass grub damage will be noticeable in lawns now, with birds showing us exactly where the pests are, because lawns are soaked by the rain leave them for the birds to manage, then rake out the damaged patches and re-sow. Fruit: This is the produce gathering time freezers will be filled with stewed fruit, while jams and relishes are in full swing. Vegetables: Seeds sown now will germinate, but watch out for heat stress, cover with shade cloth to prevent drying out. If planting out seedlings, I recommend covering them as well to retain moisture and protect against white butterflies. Main crop potatoes should be well on, they need longer in the ground and should be left in the garden until the tops die back in autumn before harvest. They will be larger, thick-skinned, and should also store well. When to harvest corn: When the tassels of silk turn brown and dry the ear begins to ripen to maturity and it will start to angle away from the stalk. As the ear nears maturity the tip also changes from a definite point to a more blunted end. In this stage, the juice from the kernels changes, when pricked, ripe kernels will produce a milky white substance. If the fluid is clear, it’s not ready; if no fluid runs at all, it’s past maturity and likely inedible. Cheers, Linda

Gardening in Waitaki February 26th 2024

Another lovely week with moisture, perfect growing weather, continuous colorful blooms, and the intoxicating fragrance of jasmine and roses wafting among lush summer foliage. As February progresses, we start thinking about the cooler months ahead, now is the time for an end-of-season clean-up—tackling it while the weather is still mild. I have been trimming back hebes that have, and are flowering, they run to seed quickly and If seed heads are left new growth will start from that point leaving leggy gaps below. Keep them trimmed and they will stay bushy. For superior blooms on gerberas, dahlias, and delphiniums, remove spent flowers and excess buds, while giving fortnightly feeds of liquid fertilizer. Soil is getting hungry now so soak well after pruning and top up with compost to encourage new roots. Summer Shrub and Tree Care :Resist the urge to shift shrubs now; they will suffer from transplant shock even if watered well. Instead, wait until the end of autumn when sap levels drop. If large shrubs must be moved, begin wrenching, which means digging up and lifting one-half of the roots while packing compost underneath to stimulate new feeder roots. Keep watering to support the remaining untouched root system, this will avoid transplant shock when the tree or shrub is lifted and replanted in late autumn. Seed Collecting and Storage: with the hot weather, seeds are ripening fast. Look out for foxgloves, poppies, dianthus, lupins, marigolds, sweet peas, lavender and snapdragon seed pods. Store them in brown paper bags in a dry place, away from mice, to plant now or in late winter. Lawn Preparation: If you plan to sow a new lawn in autumn, start preparing now by removing all perennial weeds, then once weeds are well dead rotary hoe the area to ensure there will be no hard pan. Then roll the soil to firm if able to create an even service, then it's raking and more raking to ensure a fine layer of soil on top to sow grass seed, once sown rake over the seed through prepared soil. The warm ground and gentle sprinklings of watering will have the seed struck in no time. Leave any fertilizing until the lawn is established. Vegetable gardens should be abundant now: Keep planting root veg and fill soil gaps with a green crop to be dug in before flowering, this helps enrich the soil. Start planning your winter garden and allocate beds for strawberries, garlic, and broad beans. Strawberries: Remove spent plants, trim runners from those being kept for another season, and transplant strong runners for next year's crop. Apples: Because of birds feasting, pick fruit early and store in a cool place, check often for any signs of rot. Grapes will need covering to prevent bird damage. Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in Waitaki February 19th 2025

The hot, muggy days last week, combined with good rainfall, created ideal growing conditions but weren’t great for harvesting—nature doesn’t always cater to everyone. Cutting back and tidying plants to encourage summer flowering is still ongoing, once areas are cleared a dressing of compost and then a deep watering would be beneficial to provide much-needed humus to soil drained of nutrients from summer growth. Leaf mulch makes perfect humus so with autumn approaching consider allocating a space, bin, or even bags for storing gathered leaves with the addition of moisture to help decompose into leaf mulch. Continue deadheading roses and dahlias to prolong flowering. Deadheading roses and dahlias is a critical part of care. It means removing the remains of the spent. By doing this, the plant’s ‘desire’ to set seed is frustrated, so it puts its energies into growing more flowers. Continual deadheading means flowering continues until the onset of winter. Spring bulbs are now available in garden centers. It may feel odd to think about spring at this time of year, but to acquire a stunning spring garden, planting must start now. Bulbs should be planted at the depth recommended on the packaging—typically 4 to 6 inches of soil on top—to ensure they survive dry periods while dormant. Plant in groups for the best effect, a drift of daffodils and grape hyacinths (match heads), tulips, and hyacinths, or a drift of any spring bulbs with forget-me-not make a stunning spring show. I also adore iris planted in drifts, plant bearded iris in an area where they can stay, rake mulch away from their rhizomes so they get good baking from the summer sun, and divide rhizomes as they age. Lawns will benefit from a good feed now—have fertilizer ready for the next rainfall. If you notice dead patches, grass grubs are likely the cause. There is still time to treat them before May when they are actively feeding on roots. For years, treatment granules were unavailable, but a new solution is now on the market. Native organic Neem granules effectively combat grass grubs and other garden pests, making them worth researching. Vegetables and fruit are still growing well, so maintain consistent watering on days when evaporation is minimal. Birds are targeting outdoor tomatoes and ripening apples, old net curtains or frost cloth can be used as a cover to keep them hidden. Apricot trees can be pruned as soon as all fruit has been harvested. Cheers, Linda

Gardening in Waitaki February 11 2025

Another week of unpredictable weather here on the coast while inland gardens and people sweltering in the heat. February is an excellent month for taking cuttings and propagating your plants. By late summer, the soft new spring growth has hardened, making cuttings less prone to moisture loss from their leaves. Semi-succulent plants like geraniums (Pelargoniums) and impatiens are ideal for beginners. Still, many common shrubs—such as abelia, buxus, lavender, camellia, choisya, fuchsia, and hebe—also have a high success rate as do all those lovely African daisies available now. The key to successful propagation is keeping cuttings alive while they develop roots. Professional nurseries use glasshouses with heated beds and regular misting, but home gardeners can achieve great results with the following method.1: Take cuttings early in the morning while it's still cool. Select tip pieces about 100–150mm long and place them in a bucket with enough water to keep them upright. If needed, they can remain in the bucket for a couple of days, and work in the shade.2: Fill a deep container with river sand or crusher dust, water it thoroughly, and allow it to drain.3: Trim the base of each cutting just below a leaf node (where a leaf is or was attached). Remove the lower leaves, leaving a few at the top, large leaves can be cut in half to reduce water loss. 4: Dip the base of each cutting in rooting hormone (gel or powder). 6: Use a pencil to create holes in the mix; a 150mm pot can hold about six cuttings. Insert each cutting into a hole and gently press the mix around it. 7: Water carefully and place the pot in a lightly shaded area. A plastic cover isn’t needed at this time of year, but check regularly to ensure the mix stays moist. After a couple of months, gently move the stems—if they feel firm, the roots have started to develop. Once well-rooted, transplant cuttings into individual pots with potting mix and feed with a mild liquid fertilizer. Raise pots off the cold ground over winter before planting them in larger containers or directly in the garden in spring. Compost bins will be working well to break down garden and food waste, I have been emptying mine from the bottom, happy that the many worms have enjoyed time contributing to turning waste into great compost.  Seed Collecting. Many seed pods are ripening, making it the perfect time to start collecting seeds. I’m filling small paper bags with sweet peas, cosmos, lavatera, delphiniums, and nasturtiums, to name a few.Monarch Butterflies. On sunny days, Monarch butterflies are actively laying eggs on swan plants, leading to an abundance of caterpillars that can strip the plants quickly. If you don’t have enough swan plants to sustain all the caterpillars, it’s best to remove and squash eggs. If your swan plants are in pots, consider bringing them indoors to prevent butterflies from laying eggs on them. Swan plants don’t develop hardwood, making them vulnerable to frost in very cold areas. However, some mature swan plant trees can be found in North Otago. I’ve had success overwintering young plants by covering them with a double layer of frost cloth. Lawn Care: Lawns are retaining growth well because of the overcast weather.  Keeping mower blades set higher will help shade the roots and retain moisture.Have lawn fertiliser handy to spread on lawns during the next downpour. Fruit Trees: There should be an abundance of plums, apples, pears, nectarines, and late peaches being picked, such a joy to have them in a garden. Feed citrus trees with citrus food, If you notice scale on leaves and branches, spray with winter oil. If your lemon tree is becoming crowded, remove a few branches to improve airflow and allow more light in for pollinators because lemon bushes have a very long fruiting season. Vegetables: There’s still plenty of growing time left! Keep sowing vegetable seeds like carrots, beetroot, parsnips, spring onions, and lettuce. Seedlings planted now will need protection from birds until they grow larger. Late potatoes should be in flower now, mounding is needed to keep light out.  Cheers, Linda

Gardening in Waitaki February 5th 2025

Some lovely summer days came our way this week to remind us how lazy, hazy summer days should consistently be. However, cutting back plants as they run to seed is a constant to keep blooms coming. Dead-heading dahlias by taking stalky old growth right back to where the stem is plumper keep them bushy and flowering longer, Roses are budding up again after the first blooming, it takes about six weeks from a prune at a new outwards-facing bud to new blooms. Watering and mulching with aged compost will keep roses healthy and blooming right through until early winter. Agapanthus are taking center stage in gardens right now. The blues have a cooling effect on hot summer days, and the whites highlight shaded garden areas. They are perfect for dry banks, under trees, and any part of a large garden where they are allowed to multiply and form drifts of colour. Dividing agapanthus can be done when they have finished flowering. Cut English lavenders back by 2/3rds as they flower once, and give them a dressing of blood and bone. However, if they are too old and woody, they will probably not put out new growth, so take cuttings from what you cut back and grow a few new plants. Lavender stoechas and dentata (French lavender) will keep producing flowers if trimmed often. Catmint and alyssum also need a cutback to encourage another flowering. It's the right time from now on to plant large flowering (hybrid) clematis to get roots established before winter. A fungus spray at planting will help eliminate the wilt problem some clematis suffer from, when planting try not to disturb the roots, and sprinkle a little lime to sweeten the soil. There are some stunning hybrid clematis on offer with huge or delicate flowers in vibrant shades that to me have a tropical look climbing and spilling through gardens. Seed collecting begins again and the sowing of well-dried seeds for colour during autumn and early winter, pansy, poppies, statice, calendula, primula, cineraria, alyssum, and snapdragon will all get an early start if sown now into seed trays then placed in semi-shade to germinate. Lawns: All lawns will be stressed now, weeds can be spot-sprayed out with product at the suggested strength, it is best to do this in the heat of the day when weeds will be thirsty. I pop them out with the blade of my secateurs and that works fine. Keep the catcher up and leave it off when mowing from time to time to let clippings feed back into the lawn. Fruit & Veg: Overcast days have slowed ripening down but with a few more sun-filled days like last week fruit, veg, and filled glasshouses will make up that lost time. Corn, tomatoes, and all in the pumpkin family need continuous heat. Keep rotating root and leaf vegetables to get the best results, i.e. where carrots have been growing, plant lettuce. Cheers, Linda.

Hybrid clematis's

Gardening in Waitaki January 28th 2025

Nothing like a good heavy summer rain like we received last week to freshen lawns and gardens. Geraniums are doing well this year, an old but reliable plant that gives heaps of colour all through summer & autumn. Some very pretty and different varieties are on offer nowadays, they are a wonderful plant for pots and the ivy type is lovely in hanging baskets. This is one plant that will not fail to root when cuttings are planted. Geraniums are so easy to grow in full sun and they do not mind if you forget to water them for a while because they like to be a little dryer than most other plants. Tree peonies will need old stems that flowered cut out, this will reduce their size by half and stop the seed pods from popping everywhere. Don't let tree peonies get away and swamp other plants, they can also send out runners from the mother plant that pop up all over the place. Cut them out if they are not wanted. Same for euphorbia plants, there are many different types of euphorbia and they are all worthy of having a spot in the flower garden or just planted grouped to make an impact but seed heads must be cut back to stop them spreading. I recommend wearing gloves when deadheading euphorbia because the white milky sap can result in redness of exposed skin, swelling and sometimes blistering and should not come in contact with eyes. If this happens gently wash the exposed skin with soap and water. Rinsing with water alone will not be enough to remove the sap from the skin. Don't let this put you off introducing these lovely plants into your garden. After a wet overcast period, snails will be about. I came across a method of dealing with them that I have put into place and thought I would share with you. Scientists have discovered that slugs and snails detest caffeine. Pouring the dregs of your morning coffee on the ground will drive them away. Even better, add coffee grounds to your mulch or potting mix. Ask your local coffee shop if you can recycle their leftovers and mulch your hostas, lettuce seedlings, and more. Now is a great time to give this a try.I pulled all the eaten leaves off hostas, cineraria and lettuce plants and the first lot of coffee grounds have been spread around, I will let you know the outcome. Slug bait is poisonous to birds and dangerous for children. Plants in pots can be protected with a thick band of Vaseline applied right around the rim of the pot - impossible for slugs and snails to cross. Healthy plants will resist pests better than struggling, spindly specimens. Feed your plants well and ensure that they get adequate water. Encouraging birds into your garden to control pest populations, not spraying allows insect predators to get to work. Roses: Spray or not to Spray is a big question when it comes to pests on your roses. When you spray you also eliminate the predators, predators take longer to restore their population than the fast-breeding pests, so the problem seems to worsen when we spray and it becomes an endless cycle. I opted not to spray in my past large garden and it took only a couple of growing seasons for pests and predators to take care of things. I removed the rust and black spot-affected leaves and destroyed them and kept a good supply of food up to the roses keeping them strong and healthy. >earwigs can eat great holes in your flowers overnight, an earwig trap made from an upturned plant pot filled with scrunched-up newspaper resting on top of a bamboo stake pushed into the ground makes an ideal hiding place for these nocturnal pests - you can tip them into rubbish or leave the bodies on the bird table. Spittlebugs, hidden in a foamy 'spittle' like substance, can be removed with a strong jet of water from the hose, or even by hand. If you are looking for non-toxic solutions to keeping those bugs down, try the following sprays. Garlic garden spray: 3 large cloves of crushed garlic, 1 tbsp of vegetable oil, 1 tsp of liquid soap, and 1 litre of water. Combine the garlic and vegetable oil and leave to soak overnight. Strain and add to the water along with the liquid soap. Spray regularly. Rhubarb spray: Aphids can also be eliminated with Rhubarb spray. Boil 5 rhubarb leaves in a large pot of water for approximately 10 mins. When cooled add a squirt of dishwashing detergent to fix the spray to the leaves. Rhubarb leaves contain toxic oxalic acid. Lawns:Spot spray weeds during warm days, use the right product that kills the weeds and not the grass. There are a few on offer, even some that weed and feed at the same time. Apply lawn fertiliser when we next get rain. Vegetables: where to plant from now & when to harvest, Basil (herb) Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Harvesting from March - April Beetroot Sow in garden. Harvesting from February - April. Cabbage Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Harvesting from March-May Carrot Sow seed in the garden, water well and harvest from March - April. Chives Sow seed in the garden, harvest from February - April Dwarf beans: (also French beans, Bush beans) Sow in the garden, harvest from February - April Fruit: Those with fruit bushes and trees may be disappointed with low crops due to the many overcast days that kept bees and pollinating insects away. Apples will be well on now with some cooking varieties almost ready and attracting wasps, if this is happening on your tree remove all wasp-damaged fruit away from the tree, even those on the ground because it will be these bringing the wasps. Hopefully, later crops will get the sun needed for ripening. Cheers, Linda.