Gardening in Waitaki May 20th 2025

japanese maple osakazuki in my past garden.

The end of mellow May leads us into a new month bringing different gardening challenges with the start of winter chills. Lack of wind means all leaves haven't been tugged from trees, and soil has not dried-out yet. Frost will soon play a part in robbing the soil of moisture from soil so keep an eye on maple trees. if leaves shrivel quickly during colour change it's an indication of root dryness. Rose flowering is coming to an end, but don't cut spent flower heads off, leave all types of roses to make seed which will harden wood before the big prune in july. New season's bare-root roses should be in Garden centers. If you want to plant roses, prepare the ground now by digging in old stable manure or bagged rose mix. Bare-rooted, winter-planted roses are less likely to suffer from planting stress than roses planted in spring. Re-pot container-grown buxus if they look pot-bound. Buxus root growth is prolific, and they don't seem to suffer from the removal of half a root ball. I replaced the old growing medium with half potting mix and sifted soil. Winter colour in pots, plant polyanthus, pansies, primulas, snapdragons, and wallflowers. I have just planted out a garden with wall flowers and forget- me- not, both will fill out from now on and should be in full bloom towards the end of winter. Lawns: The unusual autumn rain we have had has kept lawns green, but growth should now be slowing down; however, lawn mowers will still be on the go until the last of the leaves. Next time it rains, sprinkle some lime over the lawns for a boost before they stop growing. Gardeners in the past preferred lime just before the first frost because the soil then has all winter to absorb the lime, but lime is never spread on a dry, wilted lawn or a soggy, wet lawn. I like to follow the old, tried and tested ways that get results. Keep in mind for the next growing season, lawn grass grows best on a nutrient ratio of 3 parts nitrogen, 1 part phosphorus, and 2 parts potassium. (12-4-8). While this is an ideal ratio, you may not be able to find the exact ratio in a lawn fertilizer; a close match will do. If ground pH is below 6 on the pH scale, lime will make a marked improvement in growing conditions come spring. One sign of a low soil pH is the presence of excess moss and weeds in your garden or lawn. Moss and weeds are acid-loving plants, though not a guaranteed indicator; an excess of moss and weeds is a good sign that you should raise the soil pH. Another sign that you need to raise soil pH is when fertilizer doesn’t seem to be doing its job. Acidic soil prevents fertilizer from functioning properly. Vegetables: On the coast, sow broad beans, garlic, shallots, and rhubarb. In colder areas, nothing much can be planted without protection, but covering bare soil with a thick layer of mulch will keep the soil from remaining wet and frozen over the winter months. Fruit: Bare-rooted fruit trees will be arriving in garden centers soon. ask now if they will be stocking the required trees and have them put aside on arrival. Ground can be prepared now for planting fruit trees. choose an open, sunny position, sheltered from strong winds. Fruit trees will grow in a wide range of soil types as long as there is good drainage. Plums and pear rootstock tolerate heavier soils than most other fruit trees. Using good quality compost will improve water retention in lighter soils and improve drainage in heavier soils, as well as improving fertility. Pruning of newly planted fruit trees will not take place until trees have branched. During the early stages of tree development, the main goal is to develop the shape and framework that will support heavy crops of fruit. Pruning: Apple trees: After initial shaping of apple trees, the only pruning necessary is the removal of excess twiggy growth. I have found that pruning water shoots (new growth) during winter will only stimulate growth, causing unwanted growth the following season, but summer pruning on established trees will cause the tree to grow less new wood during the growing season. Apple trees produce fruit on spurs (short stubby growths attached to main branches. They continue producing on the same spurs for several years. Pears and cherry fruit also grow on spurs and require similar treatment. Apricot: Prune apricot trees in late winter or early spring as the new leaves and flowers begin to open, or straight after fruiting. Newly planted apricots can be pruned soon after planting. Remove all damaged or broken shoots and limbs and all branches with a narrow crotch (those that grow up more than out) and all branches that are within 18 inches of the ground. Shorten last year’s main branches to about 30 inches. Peach and nectarine: These trees flower on new wood made the previous summer. prune hard to encourage new growth; otherwise, fruit will be produced further and further out on the branches each year. Flower buds are plump, while growth buds are flatter. Plum trees produce fruit on the same spurs for several years. Once a shape has been established, it requires little pruning because excessive pruning can overstimulate tree growth at the expense of fruit. Remove vertical branching and water sprouts regularly. Look at a tree, and it is easy to distinguish the water sprouts from the regular growth. They grow straight up from the canopy branches and trunk, and the branches are thin and scraggly in appearance. A heavy hand when pruning in winter will increase the number of water sprouts on the tree. When pruning plum trees in the winter, only remove 20 percent of the growth from the previous year. Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in Waitaki May 14th 2025

As we settle into autumn, it brings us shorter days and the mellow atmosphere of May. I recently moved to a property with a low-maintenance garden already in place, but as any passionate gardener would, I’ve begun rearranging and removing plants that I felt were not for me. While I appreciate foliage, I’ve always seen it as a complement to flowering plants; never have I been without a picking garden; I intend to have one here. Creating a low-maintenance picking garden without making it too labor-intensive is the challenge. Fortunately, years of gardening with all the successes and the inevitable mistakes have taught me what works best with minimal effort. This experience has been invaluable not only in my gardens but also in the many I’ve designed for clients and plan to design in the future. This new garden is covered with weed mat and chunky bark mulch. While this is excellent for suppressing weeds in open areas, it has its drawbacks; it slows plant growth, keeps soil soggy in exposed spots, and prevents moisture retention in dry areas, especially under eaves. To optimize planting in such a garden, a few adjustments are necessary. For dry areas under eaves, start by raking the bark off, then remove the weed mat. Soak the soil thoroughly and apply a layer of manure-enriched compost. Plant low-growing shrubs or perennials, then reapply the bark mulch. Bark breaks down slowly and can deplete soil nitrogen, but the compost will counteract this; weeds will be few, and soil will retain moisture if kept up. In wetter areas where the weed mat cannot be entirely removed, cut a crisscross pattern in the mat where you wish to plant, fold back the corners, and dig holes larger than the root ball of your plants. After planting, leave the folded mat corners tucked back, allowing air circulation. Cover the surface with bark again. This technique helps regulate soil moisture and promotes healthier plant growth. Gardens, like all living spaces, evolve. Understanding how to work with existing elements while making them suit your vision is key — a principle I have always applied in my designs and those I create for others. Dahlias: Cut back, dig, and divide for late spring planting. Label clumps by color and store in cardboard boxes in a dry shed. Fill gaps with winter annuals like wallflowers and poppies. Ericas: Trim spent summer flowers to maintain compact growth. Avoid lime and fertilizer; they thrive in dry, sunny soil. Ground cover varieties are low-maintenance and budding for winter color. Bearded Iris and Freesia: Keep compost and mulch away from exposed rhizomes and bulbs to prevent baking in the sun. Perennials: Divide overgrown clumps to fill gaps or pot up for later planting. Cover beds with compost to encourage root growth and insulate through winter. Peony Roses: Plant or shift this month, taking care not to damage tuber shoots. Cuttings: Move trays to a light, warm spot for winter growth and water less frequently, at the start of the day.Tree Wrenching: Begin wrenching trees for relocation by digging around half the root mass, backfilling where roots have been cut with peat, compost, or sifted soil to promote new feeder roots. Water regularly. Pot Plants: Reduce watering and move away from cold glass as night temperatures drop. Fruit: strawberries. Plant now in raised beds for better drainage and add manure-rich compost. Raspberries: Cut back fruiting stems by half after fruiting; cut two-year-old canes to the ground. Apples: Pick for storage to prevent bird damage. Delay pruning pip fruit until next month. Vegetables: Plant snow peas, pak choi, kale, broccoli, cauliflower, and beetroot. Sow baby spinach in kitchen window containers for winter greens. This is the last month to sow carrot seeds; use onion sets rather than seeds now for better results. Clear finished summer vegetables or dig in leafy crops. Add manure-enriched compost and lime to heavily cropped soil, and leave the soil exposed to winter frost. Lawn Care: With lawns remaining moist and soft, and frost approaching, raise mower blades to maintain a longer grass length to protect your lawn roots as growth slows. Note: I have now just caught up on my Garden design work. If you need advice or help to plan a garden, contact me. Phone: 0274430256 Email: linda.lsw@gmail.com Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in Waitaki May 7th 2025

What a difference a rain makes during Autumn; however, some areas will still need a good soak, as it is the shallow-rooted trees and shrubs that need help before winter. I have lost aged maples because of dry Autumn conditions, so I now always give them all a good soak before winter. Other shallow-rooted shrubs that may be looking for a good soaking are rhododendrons, azaleas, camellias, daphne, hydrangeas, lilacs, cornus (dogwood), buxus, and viburnums.   Ready compost should be going down fast onto gardens to make room for autumn leaves, annual weeds, and lawn clippings to refill the bins for autumn compost.Potting seedlings: I have been potting up well-grown seedlings before the nights get colder, because they are straight from seed trays frost cloth has gone on at night. I remove it on sunny days but once we start getting frosts it will remain on until spring. Remove water trays from pots now, soil in pots should stay damp from now on. Potted plants should never be waterlogged throughout winter, as this will lead to plant roots freezing and rotting. This is a great time to make new perennial beds or reorganise existing beds, with perennial clumps increasing in size annually, they soon overfill a space. Lift overgrown clumps, break up and replant some of the youngest growth from the perimeter. Healthy vigorous plants can be reduced by putting a sharp spade in where you would like a reduction, then lifting the cut portion out without disturbing the remaining plant. I had to do this almost annually in my past large garden with asters, phlox, aubretia, small grasses, hostas, and herbs like sage, thyme, and lemon balm.  Rockery plants can be divided now as well. Once plants have been sectioned and rearranged, cover the soil around plants with compost to encourage new root growth, Compost also helps to keep perennial beds warmer through the colder months. All old leaves from my hellebores  (winter roses) have now been removed, they are budding up for a winter display, a fortnightly liquid feed can be given now if you feel they need boosting. Further in land it would be advisable to leave some top growth on to give frost protection to soft new growth, once hardened remove all leaves to display flowers. Lilies, this is the main time to shift or divide old, overgrown clumps of lilies. Be careful not to break the fleshy scales and to retain all the basal roots. Don't pull the old stems away from the bulb as it leaves a hole where water can enter and cause rot, just cut old stems short and bend. Never allow Lilly bulbs to dry out while out of the ground. I plant lilies on a little river sand and cover with compost, which has had blood and bone added. May is the planting month for tulips  bulbs should be in retail outlets when they open, plant them at least 8 inches (20cm) deep in a  well drained sunny spot . Vegetables: Continue planting strawberry plants, raising the beds where drainage is suspect, and adding manure-rich compost. There is still a good choice of veg seedlings on offer for planting before the soil gets too cold, warm autumn soil gets roots off to a good start before growth slows. Fruit: Feijoas are plumping up and our NZ cranberries (myrtus ugni) are ripe for eating, also figs should be ready along with walnuts and hazelnuts  so still a lot of gathering happening. Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in Waitaki 3oth April 2025

Nature has been kind to us. We enjoyed some lovely days over Easter and the school holidays. The autumn colours are simply stunning, becoming even more vivid as we head into May. In the garden, winter preparations will be well underway. Summer-flowering perennials and annuals are still being cut back. Soft plant material can go straight onto the compost, while tougher, woody stems are better shredded or discarded. The more organic matter we can return to the soil, the healthier our gardens will be. Now is the perfect time to sow spring-flowering seeds. Early sowing gives plants a head start, and seedlings, nurtured through winter, will grow stronger than new seedlings purchased in spring. Although top growth slows down over winter, root systems continue developing underground. Seeds to sow directly outside now: Alyssum, aquilegia, calendula, cornflower, perennial lupins, statice, stock, and sweet peas. Seeds to sow under cover: Antirrhinum (snapdragon), dianthus, pansy, viola, poppy, scabious, sweet William, polyanthus, primrose, and primulas. If you haven't yet lifted your gladioli corms, do it soon. After cleaning and drying them, dust with flowers of sulphur before storing them in old pantyhose or paper bags, never plastic. Tall asters, which have been flowering beautifully, will now be flopping about without support. Make a note to cut back their new growth by half at the end of September; this will encourage bushier growth rather than tall, leggy stems. Asters also tend to exhaust the soil, so it’s important to divide clumps regularly once they finish flowering. Leave hydrangeas to complete their wonderful autumn show. I've been taking hardwood cuttings lately, as I can never have enough of these beautiful plants! Hydrangea cutting tips: Choose non-flowering shoots from the base or sides of a mature plant. Select cuttings in the morning, 5–6 inches (12.7–15.2 cm) long, cutting 2 inches (5.1 cm) below a leaf node. Remove lower leaves, keeping the top pair, and trim these by half to encourage rooting. Dip the base of each cutting in rooting hormone (liquid or powder). Plant into a mix of 1 part potting mix or peat moss to 1 part river sand, making sure the mix is damp. Insert cuttings about 2 inches deep and place them in a sheltered, lightly shaded spot outdoors. Cuttings usually root in 2–3 weeks, depending on conditions. Roses: As roses and other plants wind down for the season, diseases like black spot, mildew, and rust can appear—this is quite natural at this stage of the year. Lawns: With frosts on the way, lawns will begin slowing down. Apply a dressing of lime now to keep them healthy over winter and reap the benefits come spring. Try to stay off wet lawns as much as possible to prevent soil compaction, which can cause bare patches. May is also the last chance to treat for grass grub before they hibernate—remember to water in granules after application. Vegetables: Pumpkins should now be fully ripe. I like to line mine up along a sunny wall out of the rain to dry and finish ripening. If they sound hollow when tapped, they're ready to harvest. Wet soil brings out snails and slugs, so protect young seedlings by using clear plastic bottles as cloches—simply remove the caps and cut off the bases. These mini greenhouses also help keep seedlings warm on chilly nights. Easter or Anzac Day are traditional times for sowing broad beans, but it's still fine to plant them now. Along the coast, take advantage of the warm soil to sow or plant: leeks, turnips, broad beans, silver beet, spinach, cabbage, cauliflower, peas, beetroot, and broccoli. Fruit: Now’s a good time to remove dead wood from stone fruit trees like plums, nectarines, and peaches. If you're thinking about planting fruit trees, bagged plants available now will have the whole winter to establish strong root systems. Otherwise, bare-rooted trees will be hitting garden centres in June and July. Cheers, Linda

Gardening in Waitaki April 23rd 2025

Autumn in our Public Gardens:

The dampness continues in Waitaki as leaves fall, gardens and lawns are still holding green and should continue to do so a little longer if moisture is kept up. Summer potted annuals will be looking tired now, but deadheading and foliar feeding will keep them flowering through autumn. Here on the coast, we can still enjoy colour during winter if bedding plants are prepared now. The idea is to utilize the warmth from now on to encourage individually potted plants to bud, and harden for planting before frosts get heavy. Bedding plants that respond well to this method are pansy, viola, polyanthus, wallflower, stock, calendula, and primula malacoides. It is so worth taking the time to pot individual young seedlings into single pots for root development and to become acclimatized to early winter conditions rather than buying plants that have been forced into flower. I place these pots on trays and store them in a well-lit, shady place until frosts begin, then the trays are put in a sunny spot to bud up. Keep dahlia deadheading up to encourage a last vibrant show, but leave roses to make seed heads now. Rust is always a problem on roses in autumn because all resistance will be going into seed heads and hardening wood. Strip affected leaves from bushes as well as those on the ground and burn them. Carnations can be layered now, pin the center of a stem down under the soil while still attached to the mother plant, with the flower end exposed, and roots should form along the buried stem. Once rooted, cut from the mother plant and pot up to grow on before planting out in lime-sweetened soil. This layering method can be applied to many herbs, plants, and shrubs. Lawns. There should be a lot of new lawns being sown, don't worry about annual weeds appearing as the grass germinates, most will disappear after the first mow. All lawn weed sprays are too strong for new grass. Birds are after grass grub in lawns now, while grubs are feeding on grass roots close to the surface, you have until the end of May to deal with grass grub, after that they tunnel down too deep to be affected by the granules. Fruit: This is proving a good season for apples, quince, pears, and walnuts. The more I read about the health benefits of eating walnuts, I feel we should all have access to a tree, or maybe more walnut crops being planted for future generations. The East Coast is said to be the preferred place for growing walnuts, they need a dry climate, with a high summer temperature and winter chilling (down to -10ºC). Walnuts are self-pollinating, but the more trees you have, the better the pollination rate. Young walnut trees won’t be producing at economic levels until about Year 8. Vegetable Gardens will be ready to plant out new crops for the cooler seasons, root veg seeds will only germinate well while the ground is still warm. Corn and pumpkins should be coming to an end now and tomato crops almost exhausted. Water tomatoes early in the day to ensure plants are dry going into the night. Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in Waitaki April 15th 2025

Easter  break soon and North Otago will be glowing in Autumn splendor " A second spring when every leaf is a flower "   (Albert Camus If the weather holds, it will be a joy to be outside in the garden for many, I am sure. Because I have spent a good deal of my time doing that during the year, Easter break has become a time when I catch up with family. But then it was back on the job again, leaf rake and blower in hand!! Right now I am dealing with a new garden of someone else's planting after another shift, so I am doing a lot of viewing and thinking. Compost bins will be filling fast with leaves and grass clippings, adding manure and ready compost, then wetting between layers will get things decomposing while there is still warmth. Soil that is expected to produce year after year to ensure adequate growth needs a helping hand, just as farmland does. While composts and manures must be accorded their place in soil management, they are inadequate to ensure proper mineral nutrition of plants but can be supplemented by fertilisers during the growing season. Generally speaking, stable and poultry manure contain practically all the elements required, particularly Nitrogen, phosphate, and potash in a natural organic form, but manure too fresh can cause rank growth, so all the more reason to break it down with composting. As I mentioned last week, plants that will not tolerate phosphate fertiliser are Leucadendrons, Proteas, Banksia, and Erica. Dried Blood is high in nitrogen and is an easy way to replenish the nitrogen content in the soil. Plants like Polyanthus, Primulas, and Cyclamen love it and will flourish when you add dried blood to their diet. 100% Pure and Natural. Trim seeding flower heads from hebes to stop them becoming leggy with foliage only on top and bare woody branches below. During a dry autumn spell, gardens respond well to a deep, gentle soaking, especially around maples and rhododendrons but with rain being forecast, it may be a job you don't need to do. Lily bulbs will become available this month and can be planted from now until June as can all other spring bulbs apart from tulips, they are best planted during May. Vegetables  Time to dig up and divide Rhubarb crowns, mixing in heaps of compost before replanting , and a good time for sowing spinach, Snap Peas and spring onions. Fill the top of a shallow pot with Spring onions and pull them as they’re needed. Harvest Pumpkins now and remember not to remove the stalk from the Pumpkin, this stops it from rotting.   fruit: I would be harvesting apples and quince and gathering walnuts in my past large garden this week and would surely come across the odd not-found Easter egg among plants after the big Easter egg hunt in the garden. Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in Waitaki 9th April 2025

More rain this week with a temperature drop — the first frost on the coast can't be far away. It’s that waiting time of year again — waiting for the deciduous trees and shrubs to put on their spectacular autumn show before leaf drop, waiting for plants to finish flowering so they can be back. Roses: Also waiting for the roses to set seed. It’s tempting to want to tidy roses up now, but resist the urge to deadhead. As untidy as they may look, it's best to leave them until the proper pruning time in July. When a spent bloom sets seed, the plant continues drawing sap upward to feed and develop the seeds. While this is happening, the bud shoots along the stem will remain dormant, as sap bypasses them branch wood is hardening. If you remove the seed heads now, the plant redirects sap into new growth which will be too soft to survive winter. For now, the best thing to do with roses is to remove and dispose of any diseased leaves from the plant and surrounding ground. Follow this with a spray of Guild or Super Shield to help prevent the overwintering of rust, black spot, and mildew. Now is a good time to move camellias, rhododendrons, and conifers, as long as they’re still a manageable size. If wanting to shift larger specimens, trenching now in preparation for shifting during winter would be the way to go. Trenching... dig down around one half of the root ball, cutting through feeding roots, then backfill with compost for new feeding roots to establish. The other untouched side of the rootball will keep sustaining the shrub or tree until the time to relocate it. Get the last weed spraying done if needed. Driveways, paved areas, and fence lines. Choose a warm, dry afternoon when the weeds are thirsty. Any new weed seeds that germinate will likely be taken care of by the frost, so that’s it for the weed spraying until spring. In the glasshouse, start increasing light by removing any shading and reduce watering now that growth is slowing down. Lawns: If damp conditions continue, now is the time to put down grass grub granules. The grubs are actively feeding on grass roots until May, then they go dormant and reappear as night beetles around November. There’s also still time to de-thatch lawns and resow any bare patches. The soil is still warm enough to get a good strike, but not for much longer, as nights are cooling quickly. I like to give struggling lawns a dressing of sifted compost — about half a bucket per square metre — and work it in gently with the back of a rake and mow without a catcher often to add humus. This improves both light and compacted soils. If your soil is especially compacted, add some gypsum to the compost for a better result. Vegetables & Fruit: There’s still time to sow a green crop once space becomes available in the veg garden. Dig in any vegetables that have gone to seed and any annual weeds before they seed — all great for building humus in the soil. Keep planting winter vegetables. Cover any pumpkins still growing if a frost is forecast . Apply cleanup sprays to all fruit trees and fruiting shrubs that have shown signs of leaf spot. Super Copper or Nature’s Way Fungus Spray works well. Citrus trees with leaf or fruit spot can also be treated with Super Copper. Cheers, Linda

Gardening in Waitaki March 26th 2025

A few warm days this week in North Otago, with rain never far away. The Waitaki Valley is glowing gold beside its stunning aqua lakes—a true blessing. Leaf fall has begun, so it’s time to rake, collect, and start making leaf mulch that will decompose over winter. It is simply made with fallen, dampened leaves left to decompose separately from the rest of your compost. Mowing over leaves breaks them down to decompose quicker.

Now is also the perfect moment to assess the garden for trimming, shifting, and nurturing before winter sets in. Collect dry seeds and take hardwood cuttings while the soil is still warm enough for them to settle and root. This is also a great time to plant well-established shrubs, as their roots will anchor before the frosts arrive Look for runners on low-growing shrubs and climbers like jasmine, honeysuckle, and clematis—pot them up now for planting in spring. Native seedlings often sprout among shrubs or gravel; these can also be potted up and nurtured through winter. Lavatera and buddleia benefit from a good cutback now to keep them bushy through winter. Geraniums should also be tidied up—remove old stems and accumulated leaves where pests like whiteflies may be hiding. Further inland, leave geraniums intact but take cuttings as a precaution against frost damage. Late sweet pea sowings have begun to emerge. They will hold steady through winter and take off in spring. As heavy feeders, they thrive best in rotated planting areas, but if replanted in the same spot, enrich the soil with stable manure for a long flowering season. Hellebores dry out easily at this time of year, so be sure to keep them watered and well-fed with blood and bone, manure, or slow-release fertilizer. Baby hellebores growing around the mother plant can be potted up now, though they take about three years from seed to bloom. Lawns will be wet from recent rain and autumn dew, so wait for proper drainage before mowing. Raising the mower height encourages deep-rooted growth, resulting in a healthier, more resilient lawn that also supports local wildlife. Fruit & Vegetables Codling moth caterpillars are on the move from trees—trap them now by wrapping corrugated cardboard (ridges inward) around tree trunks. Once the harvest is over, remove and destroy the cardboard to reduce infestations. Continue sowing onion, radish, and spinach seeds. On the coast, plant cabbage, celery, and winter lettuce; further inland, opt for broad beans, cabbage, and spinach. Buttercrunch lettuce is an excellent choice now, as it continues to grow well into winter. Cheers, Linda

Gardening in Waitaki 2025

More rain as we move into autumn, for those who have sown an Autumn lawn it will be just what is needed but for those grain crops still to harvest not so good, tomorrow will hopefully be another warm autumn day. With nights cooling and days shortening it will not be long before the major leaf drop and Gardeners with rakes in hand. Lift branches on large spreading trees to let more light on gardens and lawns, trim back climbers like wisteria, jasmine, and honeysuckle, trim hedges/shrubs, Keep deadheading dahlia, petunias, and geraniums to keep them flowering through until the first frost. Continue to remove spent summer annuals so the ground can be worked ready for winter flowering annuals like primulas, wall flowers, polyantha, pansies & violas. Fork in some compost and wet beds well before replanting. Be on the lookout for useful self-sown seedlings like foxglove, lupin, cineraria, hollyhock, and primula melodies, I am finding quite a few of them, they can be transplanted now to settle in before winter. Peony roses are on offer now, they are worth planting with their big showy blooms taking over from the spring rhododendron displays, be careful when planting not to disturb the new shoots (eyes) forming. A peony root to be planted should contain at least 3 eyes that will eventually become stems. A root with only 1 or 2 eyes will still grow, but it will take longer to flower, they kike a good winter chilling so roots should be planted relatively close to the soil surface; only about 2-3 inches deep. Plant with the eyes facing upwards and the roots spread out. Peonies prefer sunny, well-drained, slightly acidic soil and benefit from compost added when planting, they can remain in the same spot for upwards of 70 years. Lift gladioli now and store them in a dry place, if left in the ground they may be attacked by pests. Empty my compost areas in readiness for all the incoming leaves to start again by layering lawn clippings, a good amount of animal manure and organic matter from garden clippings, and moisture and oxygen to create the necessary bacteria to start things working. Piling in grass clippings without layering is only going to suppress the oxygen needed. With the heat and rain compost will be well cooking before winter. Trees, shrubs, plants, and bulbs take so much from the soil during each growing season, that sooner than later gardens need more than Man-made fertilizers which work by feeding the plants and promoting growth and in doing so deplete the soil of humus. Lawns: Get new lawns sown now, the cooler nights and mornings are allowing the moisture to remain longer after watering and a strike will happen pretty fast. Vegetables: Good growth is still happening with the rain we have been getting, pumpkins and corn should be ready to harvest soon, dry off pumpkin and squash skins before storing them in a cool dry place. This is a good time for planting above ground annual crops that produce their seeds outside like lettuce, spinach, celery, broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, and grain green crops for digging in. Cheers, Linda.

Layering compost.

Gardening in Waitaki 4th March 2025

What a marvelous rain on Monday night, and then more showers today. Rain like that will keep autumn back a little longer as March is usually the ripening season, when seeds ripen, and growth slows with the dryness. However there will be no holding autumn back too long and If possible, take the opportunity to slow down along with the garden and enjoy the mellow days. This is also the time for the autumn flower display to begin—autumn crocus bursts into bloom alongside nerines, chrysanthemums are budding, and some spring bulbs are already pushing through. I spend a lot of time deadheading and cutting back, and the perennials pruned last month have already bushed up again, filling in gaps. This is a good time to mention the pruning and shaping of shrubs. Shrubs that flowered on the previous year’s growth—such as rhododendrons, camellias, azaleas, ceanothus, forsythia, and coleonema (Breath of Heaven)—can be reduced in size now if necessary. There is still enough growing time left for them to recover before winter. In colder areas, all flowering shrubs should be trimmed as soon as flowering finishes, except for hydrangeas, which benefit from leaving spent flower heads on to protect new shoots through winter. Shrubs that flower on the current year’s growth—such as daisy bushes, rosemary, and fuchsia—are best left with their top growth intact until spring. Soil care is important now, following the intense heat and summer flowering and heavy rain the addition of organic matter—either dug in or left as a top mulch for worms to carry down to roots will help condition the soil for next spring. For some gardens, I need to wait until autumn leaves have been raked off or raked aside to allow a green crop to be sown before adding compost, blue lupin, mustard, or alfalfa, which will naturally enrich the soil with nitrogen. Dig it in before flowering, or simply cover it with compost before applying the final layer of pea straw if needed. Lawns: Grass grub damage will be noticeable in lawns now, with birds showing us exactly where the pests are, because lawns are soaked by the rain leave them for the birds to manage, then rake out the damaged patches and re-sow. Fruit: This is the produce gathering time freezers will be filled with stewed fruit, while jams and relishes are in full swing. Vegetables: Seeds sown now will germinate, but watch out for heat stress, cover with shade cloth to prevent drying out. If planting out seedlings, I recommend covering them as well to retain moisture and protect against white butterflies. Main crop potatoes should be well on, they need longer in the ground and should be left in the garden until the tops die back in autumn before harvest. They will be larger, thick-skinned, and should also store well. When to harvest corn: When the tassels of silk turn brown and dry the ear begins to ripen to maturity and it will start to angle away from the stalk. As the ear nears maturity the tip also changes from a definite point to a more blunted end. In this stage, the juice from the kernels changes, when pricked, ripe kernels will produce a milky white substance. If the fluid is clear, it’s not ready; if no fluid runs at all, it’s past maturity and likely inedible. Cheers, Linda

Gardening in Waitaki February 26th 2024

Another lovely week with moisture, perfect growing weather, continuous colorful blooms, and the intoxicating fragrance of jasmine and roses wafting among lush summer foliage. As February progresses, we start thinking about the cooler months ahead, now is the time for an end-of-season clean-up—tackling it while the weather is still mild. I have been trimming back hebes that have, and are flowering, they run to seed quickly and If seed heads are left new growth will start from that point leaving leggy gaps below. Keep them trimmed and they will stay bushy. For superior blooms on gerberas, dahlias, and delphiniums, remove spent flowers and excess buds, while giving fortnightly feeds of liquid fertilizer. Soil is getting hungry now so soak well after pruning and top up with compost to encourage new roots. Summer Shrub and Tree Care :Resist the urge to shift shrubs now; they will suffer from transplant shock even if watered well. Instead, wait until the end of autumn when sap levels drop. If large shrubs must be moved, begin wrenching, which means digging up and lifting one-half of the roots while packing compost underneath to stimulate new feeder roots. Keep watering to support the remaining untouched root system, this will avoid transplant shock when the tree or shrub is lifted and replanted in late autumn. Seed Collecting and Storage: with the hot weather, seeds are ripening fast. Look out for foxgloves, poppies, dianthus, lupins, marigolds, sweet peas, lavender and snapdragon seed pods. Store them in brown paper bags in a dry place, away from mice, to plant now or in late winter. Lawn Preparation: If you plan to sow a new lawn in autumn, start preparing now by removing all perennial weeds, then once weeds are well dead rotary hoe the area to ensure there will be no hard pan. Then roll the soil to firm if able to create an even service, then it's raking and more raking to ensure a fine layer of soil on top to sow grass seed, once sown rake over the seed through prepared soil. The warm ground and gentle sprinklings of watering will have the seed struck in no time. Leave any fertilizing until the lawn is established. Vegetable gardens should be abundant now: Keep planting root veg and fill soil gaps with a green crop to be dug in before flowering, this helps enrich the soil. Start planning your winter garden and allocate beds for strawberries, garlic, and broad beans. Strawberries: Remove spent plants, trim runners from those being kept for another season, and transplant strong runners for next year's crop. Apples: Because of birds feasting, pick fruit early and store in a cool place, check often for any signs of rot. Grapes will need covering to prevent bird damage. Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in Waitaki February 19th 2025

The hot, muggy days last week, combined with good rainfall, created ideal growing conditions but weren’t great for harvesting—nature doesn’t always cater to everyone. Cutting back and tidying plants to encourage summer flowering is still ongoing, once areas are cleared a dressing of compost and then a deep watering would be beneficial to provide much-needed humus to soil drained of nutrients from summer growth. Leaf mulch makes perfect humus so with autumn approaching consider allocating a space, bin, or even bags for storing gathered leaves with the addition of moisture to help decompose into leaf mulch. Continue deadheading roses and dahlias to prolong flowering. Deadheading roses and dahlias is a critical part of care. It means removing the remains of the spent. By doing this, the plant’s ‘desire’ to set seed is frustrated, so it puts its energies into growing more flowers. Continual deadheading means flowering continues until the onset of winter. Spring bulbs are now available in garden centers. It may feel odd to think about spring at this time of year, but to acquire a stunning spring garden, planting must start now. Bulbs should be planted at the depth recommended on the packaging—typically 4 to 6 inches of soil on top—to ensure they survive dry periods while dormant. Plant in groups for the best effect, a drift of daffodils and grape hyacinths (match heads), tulips, and hyacinths, or a drift of any spring bulbs with forget-me-not make a stunning spring show. I also adore iris planted in drifts, plant bearded iris in an area where they can stay, rake mulch away from their rhizomes so they get good baking from the summer sun, and divide rhizomes as they age. Lawns will benefit from a good feed now—have fertilizer ready for the next rainfall. If you notice dead patches, grass grubs are likely the cause. There is still time to treat them before May when they are actively feeding on roots. For years, treatment granules were unavailable, but a new solution is now on the market. Native organic Neem granules effectively combat grass grubs and other garden pests, making them worth researching. Vegetables and fruit are still growing well, so maintain consistent watering on days when evaporation is minimal. Birds are targeting outdoor tomatoes and ripening apples, old net curtains or frost cloth can be used as a cover to keep them hidden. Apricot trees can be pruned as soon as all fruit has been harvested. Cheers, Linda

Gardening in Waitaki February 11 2025

Another week of unpredictable weather here on the coast while inland gardens and people sweltering in the heat. February is an excellent month for taking cuttings and propagating your plants. By late summer, the soft new spring growth has hardened, making cuttings less prone to moisture loss from their leaves. Semi-succulent plants like geraniums (Pelargoniums) and impatiens are ideal for beginners. Still, many common shrubs—such as abelia, buxus, lavender, camellia, choisya, fuchsia, and hebe—also have a high success rate as do all those lovely African daisies available now. The key to successful propagation is keeping cuttings alive while they develop roots. Professional nurseries use glasshouses with heated beds and regular misting, but home gardeners can achieve great results with the following method.1: Take cuttings early in the morning while it's still cool. Select tip pieces about 100–150mm long and place them in a bucket with enough water to keep them upright. If needed, they can remain in the bucket for a couple of days, and work in the shade.2: Fill a deep container with river sand or crusher dust, water it thoroughly, and allow it to drain.3: Trim the base of each cutting just below a leaf node (where a leaf is or was attached). Remove the lower leaves, leaving a few at the top, large leaves can be cut in half to reduce water loss. 4: Dip the base of each cutting in rooting hormone (gel or powder). 6: Use a pencil to create holes in the mix; a 150mm pot can hold about six cuttings. Insert each cutting into a hole and gently press the mix around it. 7: Water carefully and place the pot in a lightly shaded area. A plastic cover isn’t needed at this time of year, but check regularly to ensure the mix stays moist. After a couple of months, gently move the stems—if they feel firm, the roots have started to develop. Once well-rooted, transplant cuttings into individual pots with potting mix and feed with a mild liquid fertilizer. Raise pots off the cold ground over winter before planting them in larger containers or directly in the garden in spring. Compost bins will be working well to break down garden and food waste, I have been emptying mine from the bottom, happy that the many worms have enjoyed time contributing to turning waste into great compost.  Seed Collecting. Many seed pods are ripening, making it the perfect time to start collecting seeds. I’m filling small paper bags with sweet peas, cosmos, lavatera, delphiniums, and nasturtiums, to name a few.Monarch Butterflies. On sunny days, Monarch butterflies are actively laying eggs on swan plants, leading to an abundance of caterpillars that can strip the plants quickly. If you don’t have enough swan plants to sustain all the caterpillars, it’s best to remove and squash eggs. If your swan plants are in pots, consider bringing them indoors to prevent butterflies from laying eggs on them. Swan plants don’t develop hardwood, making them vulnerable to frost in very cold areas. However, some mature swan plant trees can be found in North Otago. I’ve had success overwintering young plants by covering them with a double layer of frost cloth. Lawn Care: Lawns are retaining growth well because of the overcast weather.  Keeping mower blades set higher will help shade the roots and retain moisture.Have lawn fertiliser handy to spread on lawns during the next downpour. Fruit Trees: There should be an abundance of plums, apples, pears, nectarines, and late peaches being picked, such a joy to have them in a garden. Feed citrus trees with citrus food, If you notice scale on leaves and branches, spray with winter oil. If your lemon tree is becoming crowded, remove a few branches to improve airflow and allow more light in for pollinators because lemon bushes have a very long fruiting season. Vegetables: There’s still plenty of growing time left! Keep sowing vegetable seeds like carrots, beetroot, parsnips, spring onions, and lettuce. Seedlings planted now will need protection from birds until they grow larger. Late potatoes should be in flower now, mounding is needed to keep light out.  Cheers, Linda

Gardening in Waitaki February 5th 2025

Some lovely summer days came our way this week to remind us how lazy, hazy summer days should consistently be. However, cutting back plants as they run to seed is a constant to keep blooms coming. Dead-heading dahlias by taking stalky old growth right back to where the stem is plumper keep them bushy and flowering longer, Roses are budding up again after the first blooming, it takes about six weeks from a prune at a new outwards-facing bud to new blooms. Watering and mulching with aged compost will keep roses healthy and blooming right through until early winter. Agapanthus are taking center stage in gardens right now. The blues have a cooling effect on hot summer days, and the whites highlight shaded garden areas. They are perfect for dry banks, under trees, and any part of a large garden where they are allowed to multiply and form drifts of colour. Dividing agapanthus can be done when they have finished flowering. Cut English lavenders back by 2/3rds as they flower once, and give them a dressing of blood and bone. However, if they are too old and woody, they will probably not put out new growth, so take cuttings from what you cut back and grow a few new plants. Lavender stoechas and dentata (French lavender) will keep producing flowers if trimmed often. Catmint and alyssum also need a cutback to encourage another flowering. It's the right time from now on to plant large flowering (hybrid) clematis to get roots established before winter. A fungus spray at planting will help eliminate the wilt problem some clematis suffer from, when planting try not to disturb the roots, and sprinkle a little lime to sweeten the soil. There are some stunning hybrid clematis on offer with huge or delicate flowers in vibrant shades that to me have a tropical look climbing and spilling through gardens. Seed collecting begins again and the sowing of well-dried seeds for colour during autumn and early winter, pansy, poppies, statice, calendula, primula, cineraria, alyssum, and snapdragon will all get an early start if sown now into seed trays then placed in semi-shade to germinate. Lawns: All lawns will be stressed now, weeds can be spot-sprayed out with product at the suggested strength, it is best to do this in the heat of the day when weeds will be thirsty. I pop them out with the blade of my secateurs and that works fine. Keep the catcher up and leave it off when mowing from time to time to let clippings feed back into the lawn. Fruit & Veg: Overcast days have slowed ripening down but with a few more sun-filled days like last week fruit, veg, and filled glasshouses will make up that lost time. Corn, tomatoes, and all in the pumpkin family need continuous heat. Keep rotating root and leaf vegetables to get the best results, i.e. where carrots have been growing, plant lettuce. Cheers, Linda.

Hybrid clematis's

Gardening in Waitaki January 28th 2025

Nothing like a good heavy summer rain like we received last week to freshen lawns and gardens. Geraniums are doing well this year, an old but reliable plant that gives heaps of colour all through summer & autumn. Some very pretty and different varieties are on offer nowadays, they are a wonderful plant for pots and the ivy type is lovely in hanging baskets. This is one plant that will not fail to root when cuttings are planted. Geraniums are so easy to grow in full sun and they do not mind if you forget to water them for a while because they like to be a little dryer than most other plants. Tree peonies will need old stems that flowered cut out, this will reduce their size by half and stop the seed pods from popping everywhere. Don't let tree peonies get away and swamp other plants, they can also send out runners from the mother plant that pop up all over the place. Cut them out if they are not wanted. Same for euphorbia plants, there are many different types of euphorbia and they are all worthy of having a spot in the flower garden or just planted grouped to make an impact but seed heads must be cut back to stop them spreading. I recommend wearing gloves when deadheading euphorbia because the white milky sap can result in redness of exposed skin, swelling and sometimes blistering and should not come in contact with eyes. If this happens gently wash the exposed skin with soap and water. Rinsing with water alone will not be enough to remove the sap from the skin. Don't let this put you off introducing these lovely plants into your garden. After a wet overcast period, snails will be about. I came across a method of dealing with them that I have put into place and thought I would share with you. Scientists have discovered that slugs and snails detest caffeine. Pouring the dregs of your morning coffee on the ground will drive them away. Even better, add coffee grounds to your mulch or potting mix. Ask your local coffee shop if you can recycle their leftovers and mulch your hostas, lettuce seedlings, and more. Now is a great time to give this a try.I pulled all the eaten leaves off hostas, cineraria and lettuce plants and the first lot of coffee grounds have been spread around, I will let you know the outcome. Slug bait is poisonous to birds and dangerous for children. Plants in pots can be protected with a thick band of Vaseline applied right around the rim of the pot - impossible for slugs and snails to cross. Healthy plants will resist pests better than struggling, spindly specimens. Feed your plants well and ensure that they get adequate water. Encouraging birds into your garden to control pest populations, not spraying allows insect predators to get to work. Roses: Spray or not to Spray is a big question when it comes to pests on your roses. When you spray you also eliminate the predators, predators take longer to restore their population than the fast-breeding pests, so the problem seems to worsen when we spray and it becomes an endless cycle. I opted not to spray in my past large garden and it took only a couple of growing seasons for pests and predators to take care of things. I removed the rust and black spot-affected leaves and destroyed them and kept a good supply of food up to the roses keeping them strong and healthy. >earwigs can eat great holes in your flowers overnight, an earwig trap made from an upturned plant pot filled with scrunched-up newspaper resting on top of a bamboo stake pushed into the ground makes an ideal hiding place for these nocturnal pests - you can tip them into rubbish or leave the bodies on the bird table. Spittlebugs, hidden in a foamy 'spittle' like substance, can be removed with a strong jet of water from the hose, or even by hand. If you are looking for non-toxic solutions to keeping those bugs down, try the following sprays. Garlic garden spray: 3 large cloves of crushed garlic, 1 tbsp of vegetable oil, 1 tsp of liquid soap, and 1 litre of water. Combine the garlic and vegetable oil and leave to soak overnight. Strain and add to the water along with the liquid soap. Spray regularly. Rhubarb spray: Aphids can also be eliminated with Rhubarb spray. Boil 5 rhubarb leaves in a large pot of water for approximately 10 mins. When cooled add a squirt of dishwashing detergent to fix the spray to the leaves. Rhubarb leaves contain toxic oxalic acid. Lawns:Spot spray weeds during warm days, use the right product that kills the weeds and not the grass. There are a few on offer, even some that weed and feed at the same time. Apply lawn fertiliser when we next get rain. Vegetables: where to plant from now & when to harvest, Basil (herb) Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Harvesting from March - April Beetroot Sow in garden. Harvesting from February - April. Cabbage Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Harvesting from March-May Carrot Sow seed in the garden, water well and harvest from March - April. Chives Sow seed in the garden, harvest from February - April Dwarf beans: (also French beans, Bush beans) Sow in the garden, harvest from February - April Fruit: Those with fruit bushes and trees may be disappointed with low crops due to the many overcast days that kept bees and pollinating insects away. Apples will be well on now with some cooking varieties almost ready and attracting wasps, if this is happening on your tree remove all wasp-damaged fruit away from the tree, even those on the ground because it will be these bringing the wasps. Hopefully, later crops will get the sun needed for ripening. Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in Waitaki January 15th 2025

Happy New Gardening Year To all who toil in the soil, a warm welcome to another year of gardening adventures! gardening understandably will have taken a back seat and with the days being so changeable enthusiasm is not quite there yet for me but deadheading has to be done, if seeds on plants are left they will mature and flowering will be shortened. I do let some plant seeds mature to save in brown paper bags. One blessing this summer has been not having to drag hoses around so often, a time-saver and a relief for those who spent time away knowing their gardens would remain fresh and blooming on their return. Seed Collecting: I’ve started collecting seeds from sweet peas, sweet William, poppies, , delphiniums, dianthus, lavender, cosmos, marigold, and lavatera to name a few, storing them in small paper bags to plant either in Autumn and carry seedlings through winter or sow in late winter for a spring germination. Roses: Certain rose varieties are naturally more susceptible to fungal attacks, particularly when days are overcast, warm, and damp. Rust on leaves can be a problem during strong, warm winds drying out the soil between waterings. To manage these problems: remove affected leaves regularly: Spray with a fungicide when time permits. : Avoid using sprinklers late in the day if it’s overcast, as wet foliage combined with warm nights encourages mildew. Deep watering around the roots is essential to keep fungus at bay.: Collect and dispose of all diseased leaves from around the base of plants. To support continuous rose blooming, add compost and blood & bone or a slow-release fertilizer to replenish nitrogen. Keep deadheading roses and give them a summer prune: cut spent flower stems down to an outward-facing bud on a sturdy part of the stem. Hydrangeas and Petunias: Hydrangeas are stunning this year, with vibrant blooms and healthy foliage, likely thanks to frequent rain, but petunias and other soft flowering plants are taking a hit with overcast dampness, keep deadheading they will soon bounce back when we get the sunny days we should be getting. Rhododendrons: Deadheading rhododendrons is tedious but worthwhile for young plants. Removing spent flowers helps direct energy into bushy growth rather than seed production. You’ll find a point where the old flower heads break off cleanly without damaging new shoots—once you get the hang of it, it’s quite satisfying. Chrysanthemums: Stake now before they grow too tall. Tip cuttings can be taken and rooted in river sand. These lovely flowers will provide vibrant color in autumn. With very tall varieties the first new grow can be removed leaving the second growth to grow shorter. Lawns: I recently fertilized the lawn during heavy rain, which also fed the weeds! Spot spraying for weeds is now on my to-do list—it’s an ongoing battle to keep the lawn looking its best on clay soil, leaving the catcher off now and then helps build up humus and keeping the mower blades higher avoids drying roots during summer. Fruit and Veggies: Current and berry jams should be on the go now for some Gardeners if this dull season has achieved ripening. I like to pick and freeze then make jam when the time allows. For black currents I cut off fruiting branches before removing the currants, pruning as I harvest. In the vegetable garden: Seeds are sprouting quickly after sowing, .Lettuces are holding well without bolting. Corn is growing steadily, while pumpkins seem to need a pep talk—they, like corn, require a long, hot ripening season. Tomatoes struggle also during overcast days. In glasshouses, keep the environment moist during the day to deter whiteflies, which prefer dry conditions but keep plants dry going through the night to avoid fungus. Keep planting vegetables (except for corn and pumpkin, which should have been started earlier), and enjoy the abundance your garden has to offer! Cheers, Linda.