Such beauty throughout North Otago — blossom, new growth, and colour everywhere despite dry winds and late chills, then that lovely rain. A little time spent now feeding, weeding, and planning new plantings will pay off in the months ahead.
Weeds and Early Maintenance: Weeds are racing away now, so tackle them while they’re young. Remove biddy-bid, chickweed, convolvulus, couch grass, dandelion and other annuals before they run to seed, or you’ll be chasing them all summer. It’s a good time to use organic weed sprays — but only on still days, as roses and other sensitive plants can be damaged even by a drift of spray.
Flowering Plants and Shrubs: Keep deadheading and feeding pansies and polyanthus, they’ll keep flowering while there’s still a chill in the air. Once they’ve finished, cut them back and move to a cool, shady spot until next year’s late Autumn planting. Look critically at your shrubs; many will have quietly outgrown their spaces. Removing just one or two tall or tired shrubs can transform a garden, opening new planting areas. In one of my past borders, removing two old shrubs allowed room for a new maple and a drift of bluebells, and what a difference it made.
Roses: Late frosts can catch the soft new rose growth, but don’t panic, leaves recover quickly, and new buds will follow within six weeks. As the weather warms, avoid evening watering on foliage to reduce mildew. Feed regularly; hungry roses are the first to get diseased. A slow-release fertiliser and a mulch of manure-enriched compost now will boost summer-flowering roses and shrubs alike.
Seedlings and Companion Planting: Seeds sown will be popping up fast — sunflowers, cosmos, larkspur, nasturtium, marigolds, lupins, godetia, and delphiniums all do well if grown on in pots until they have strong roots before planting out. Small seedlings planted too soon often fall victim to slugs or simply wither. Strong growers like sunflowers and delphiniums can go straight into peat pots and be planted pot-and-all later; roots grow through as the pot breaks down. Slugs and snails are active now; a thick mulch of sharp wood chips can help deter slugs around young plants.
This is a great time to consider companion planting: Marigolds and tagetes repel aphids and attract hoverflies, beneficial predators. Nasturtiums lure caterpillars away from brassicas. Garlic, chives, and parsley near roses deter aphids. Dill attracts bees; plant it with corn for better pollination. Basil planted among tomatoes helps repel whitefly and is, of course, delicious alongside tomatoes on a plate.
Vegetable Garden: Potatoes should be well up. Keep mounding over them to keep light from the potatoes as they increase in size. Pumpkin, squash, corn, courgette and salad crops can all be sown now. If buying seedlings, harden them off in a sheltered spot before planting out. Carrot fly is active this month: To avoid damage, cover rows; frost cloth works well. First flight: Begins in October and continues through November into early December. Second flight: Often occurs in late January to March (mid-–late summer). Adults lay eggs again, and larvae feed on older roots. Never leave carrot thinnings lying nearby to attract them. A sprinkle of unsprayed grass clippings along the rows can help disguise the carrot scent.
Glasshouse and Tomatoes: Tomato season is here! Glasshouses and tunnel houses will soon be full, but if you lack one, tomatoes grow happily in containers on a sunny deck or patio. Choose smaller types such as Red Robin, Russian Red, Totem, or Tumbling Tom for hanging baskets. Use a tomato mix, water regularly, and liquid feed fortnightly.
Fruit trees in blossom need consistent moisture and mulch to support their workload ahead. A ring of unsprayed grass clippings to the drip line helps retain moisture and suppress weeds.
Lawns: Lawns are lush after spring feeding — let them grow a little before mowing and spot-spray clover or weeds.
Butterflies: If you’re keen to attract Monarch butterflies, plant swan plants now, protect from late frosts and keep them covered from early butterflies if not big enough to support the caterpillars.
Cheers, Linda
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