November, into yet another month and my roses are full of fat buds waiting to burst open and I have just noticed the green fly are in full force!! so have sprayed with Winter oil and fish emulsion combined. The leaves are very soft and new so I picked a dull day to spry to avoid the sun burning through droplets and damaging the leaves. No problem when the leaves have toughened up to spray in the sun but never spray or water the leaves at dusk, they should be dry going into warm nights to prevent mildew growing.
This has been the best Spring ever for transplanting seedlings that have popped up from existing plants in the garden, like last years hellebore seeds. ( Winter rose) they should be nice strong small plants now so plant them out in groups under deciduous trees, or around rhododendrons, camellias, hydrangeas and fuchsias, they all like the same shady conditions.
Trim spent flowers from perennials, daisy bushes and dentata lavender often to keep them bushy and continuously in flower, if you let flower heads go to seed the bush or plants will become woody.
Another reminder to cut chrysanthemums and perennial asters back now so they will grow up a second time but hopefully not so tall and fall all over the place, their flowering time is not until the end of Summer.
Planting on a slope:
Spring is a good time to plant out a slope or bank, the ground is moist and plant roots are growing fast which means they will get a good hold before the dreaded winds arrive.
Spray out all weeds, they will compete with moisture that your plants will need. If it is possible terracing a steep slope with rocks or sleepers would be beneficial to hold moisture around the roots.
If this cannot be done try not to disturbed soil/clay in areas that are not being planted. If the soil is disturbed and broken up it will wash away with rain and watering.
Planting;
Dig a hole that is deep into the bank and shallow at the front, (an angle hole) this will create a hollow reserve for water.
Make sure it dips down at the back for water to pool. Use stones around each plant, this will help in preventing wind blowing soil away from the roots.
On the coast choose plants that grow in dry conditions, like South African plants; Greviller, leucodendron, Proteas, further inland ask the Garden center assistant what what is frost hardy and survives well in a pot without a lot of watering. Plants they can leave for a while and they still look good when dried out. I have massed lupines to fill the gaps on my bank until all the other plants get bigger. Lupines will flower the second year after planting and with all the shades they produce they look fantastic marching up a slope.
I have been trimming the soft growth off some of my hedges this week, if a hedge has reached the height required best to take the soft growth off now before the foliage beneath gets too much protection from the top growth. The Winter hardened the under growth up and it should still be strong enough not to get sunburned.I am trying this with my box hedges this year because they have all reached the required height. If a hedge is not yet as tall and thick as required leave the new growth to harden off, if you have to trim just do enough to tidy it up. I put all my soft trimmings on the garden as mulch and always trim buxus on overcast days.
Grass, Grass. Grass...So much mowing! If like me you have not had to spray the weeds out yet you can sprinkle your clippings around the garden, it is wonderful humus. Don't leave thick piles, spread it out so it can break down fast. Your garden can take as much fresh green growth that you can throw at it now with the warmth here to break it down.
Veg & Fruit
My no dig veg garden is still going strong, no weeds and the rough straw on top is a great deterrent to slugs. As I use a lettuce I put a new lettuce plant back in its place. The potatoes are well up, I have been moulding them up with compost and more straw.
If you have vacant areas in the veg garden after pulling rows of winter veg out sowed some mustard seed, it should be up in a couple of weeks for you to dig in and add humus to the soil before replanting.
I have heard from two people lately that the old method of controlling carrot fly infestation is to sprinkle condys Chrystal's along the rows when planting seed and then watering with condys Chrystal's in a watering can once the carrot tops are up. I read up on this method of carrot fly deterrent and found that gardeners in the past had success with this a swore by it, worth a try.
There are still a few fruit trees on offer, they have blossomed now and fruit is forming so get them in quick, stake them well until established then pick straight from the tree when ripe.
Gardening by the Moon
FIRST QUARTER
Thursday, 3 November 2011
Prick out and transplant seedlings, make sure you have loads of companion flowers going into the vege garden.
Basil, alyssum and classic zinnias are great companions for tomatoes. Plant them now.
Give a regular foliar spray using seaweed, vermiliquid, fish emulsion etc
Apply liquid feed such as comfrey, liquid cow manure by watering can to ground under tomatoes, peppers and any other plants needing a boost.
Harvest herbs for drying
Decide how you're going to manage blight on tomatoes and potatoes. Prevention is more efective than sorting the problem once blight is there. Try a weekly raw milk spray, or a weekly Agrisea seaweed spray, or maybe a copper spray with rain guard to make it last longer when needed.
Feed and water asparagus to keep it producing until Christmas
Orchard:
Keep up the watering
Check for pest problems, spray if necessary
Remove any unwanted suckers from berry fruit
Watch for breaking branches as early fruit swells, may need to thin fruit or prop up branches.
Feed citrus to encourage strong healthy growth at this time
Tuesday, November 1, 2011
Tuesday, October 25, 2011
Gardening in North Otago 25th October 2011
Rain,wind then more lovely rain, I knew strong winds would arrive around Labour weekend when the pink Kanzan blossom will, as usual turn into pink snow in many gardens.
Spring rain is so needed to soak well down in the dry North Otago ground, with the moisture and warmth from now on summer growing is looking pretty good.
If you are wanting to transplant Rhododendrons, Camellias and Azaleas, do it immediately after flowering before they put on their new season growth, and if your spring flowering shrubs are in need of a trim prune them back once they have finished flowering.
Geraniums and pelargoniums are available now and should be planted in sunny positions. Fuchsias are also on offer, they benefit from afternoon shade.
If you are concerned about a hot dry Summer having a disastrous effect on your garden? Plenty of Mulch breaking down in your soil will help retain water as well as improving the structure of your soil and suppressing weed growth. Mulch like straw, grass clippings and weed free compost is also excellent for breaking down clay or poor draining soil.
Newly planted roses are starting to make new growth so this is the month to feed them with slow release Fertiliser which will add nutrients to roots when ever water is applied.
Potted plants also need slow release fertiliser and re-pot any plants that have been in the same container for more than three or four years. As long as they are not too root-bound they can go back into the same pot, but should have most of the old potting mix removed and some fresh mix packed around the roots.
cymbidium orchids, Divide and re-pot now if crowded.
Water lilies are available this month and need to be planted in a basket lined with sphagnum moss or old carpet underlay, add garden soil, slow release fertiliser tabs or manure then the lily and lastly a thick layer of shingle placed on top to help weigh the basket down in the water and stop the fertiliser / manure from leaching out which will create green slime growth in the pond as the water warms up.
Fish start breeding now as water warms, they will blow eggs into oxygen weed. If big fish are shifted to another pond at the end of spring eggs will be able to escape being eaten and hatch into tiny grey fish. These tiny fish will eventually become gold fish. The big fish can be returned to the pond when new fish have grown past a meal size.
Fruit and veg:
Watch your fruit trees and Grapes for fungal diseases which may need spraying with a fungicide.
Last chance to get your Codling Moth traps up.
Aphids may start to become a problem so keep an eye out for infestation and if necessary wash off with a forceful hose or spray with an organic pesticide.
Gardening by the Moon
Opps! last week I gave this weeks information so I will back track a week, this is from the 20th October.
LAST QUARTER
Thursday, 20 October 2011
Garden:
Continue pricking out seedlings and transplanting.
Mound up earlier plantings of potatoes, critical that you either mulch or mound up well to obtain heavy crops and avoid potato worms. A foliar spray with raw milk is a great way to kill blight spores, add to a foliar spray of high quality compost tea, this is a great way to strengthen the microbe populations on the potato and tomato leaves to help avoid blight.
Orchard:
Dig up comfrey root, cut into 3-5 cm pieces and plant into seedling trays to make roots before transplanting into the orchard. If soil conditions are good you can plant the pieces of root directly into the ground now.
Make sure all the irrigation systems are working well now.
Weed and feed comfrey borders and barriers.
If it's warm and the grass is growing well in the orchard then scything the grass will mean you can mulch your fruit trees. I guess most people would be inclined to use a weed eater these days, scything has proven to make a better usable mulch (quote)
Pop out to Weston and enjoy a walk around our pretty spring garden, we are hosting a wedding on Saturday afternoon but Sunday and during the week is open for viewing, seating and toilet available, donation box on entering.
Cheers, Linda
http://nzstyleforever.blogspot.com
Spring rain is so needed to soak well down in the dry North Otago ground, with the moisture and warmth from now on summer growing is looking pretty good.
If you are wanting to transplant Rhododendrons, Camellias and Azaleas, do it immediately after flowering before they put on their new season growth, and if your spring flowering shrubs are in need of a trim prune them back once they have finished flowering.
Geraniums and pelargoniums are available now and should be planted in sunny positions. Fuchsias are also on offer, they benefit from afternoon shade.
If you are concerned about a hot dry Summer having a disastrous effect on your garden? Plenty of Mulch breaking down in your soil will help retain water as well as improving the structure of your soil and suppressing weed growth. Mulch like straw, grass clippings and weed free compost is also excellent for breaking down clay or poor draining soil.
Newly planted roses are starting to make new growth so this is the month to feed them with slow release Fertiliser which will add nutrients to roots when ever water is applied.
Potted plants also need slow release fertiliser and re-pot any plants that have been in the same container for more than three or four years. As long as they are not too root-bound they can go back into the same pot, but should have most of the old potting mix removed and some fresh mix packed around the roots.
cymbidium orchids, Divide and re-pot now if crowded.
Water lilies are available this month and need to be planted in a basket lined with sphagnum moss or old carpet underlay, add garden soil, slow release fertiliser tabs or manure then the lily and lastly a thick layer of shingle placed on top to help weigh the basket down in the water and stop the fertiliser / manure from leaching out which will create green slime growth in the pond as the water warms up.
Fish start breeding now as water warms, they will blow eggs into oxygen weed. If big fish are shifted to another pond at the end of spring eggs will be able to escape being eaten and hatch into tiny grey fish. These tiny fish will eventually become gold fish. The big fish can be returned to the pond when new fish have grown past a meal size.
Fruit and veg:
Watch your fruit trees and Grapes for fungal diseases which may need spraying with a fungicide.
Last chance to get your Codling Moth traps up.
Aphids may start to become a problem so keep an eye out for infestation and if necessary wash off with a forceful hose or spray with an organic pesticide.
Gardening by the Moon
Opps! last week I gave this weeks information so I will back track a week, this is from the 20th October.
LAST QUARTER
Thursday, 20 October 2011
Garden:
Continue pricking out seedlings and transplanting.
Mound up earlier plantings of potatoes, critical that you either mulch or mound up well to obtain heavy crops and avoid potato worms. A foliar spray with raw milk is a great way to kill blight spores, add to a foliar spray of high quality compost tea, this is a great way to strengthen the microbe populations on the potato and tomato leaves to help avoid blight.
Orchard:
Dig up comfrey root, cut into 3-5 cm pieces and plant into seedling trays to make roots before transplanting into the orchard. If soil conditions are good you can plant the pieces of root directly into the ground now.
Make sure all the irrigation systems are working well now.
Weed and feed comfrey borders and barriers.
If it's warm and the grass is growing well in the orchard then scything the grass will mean you can mulch your fruit trees. I guess most people would be inclined to use a weed eater these days, scything has proven to make a better usable mulch (quote)
Pop out to Weston and enjoy a walk around our pretty spring garden, we are hosting a wedding on Saturday afternoon but Sunday and during the week is open for viewing, seating and toilet available, donation box on entering.
Cheers, Linda
http://nzstyleforever.blogspot.com
Tuesday, October 11, 2011
Gardening in North Otago 11th October 2011
Cold start to this week and it looked like we might get rain, but no. It is a bit worrying now, well into October and still no much needed spring rain here in North Otago.
I have been sifting soil again this week for resowing the patches in lawn and using to add body to gardens and pots, baskets and seed trays. With all the mulches used today gardens become light and fluffy and don't hold moisture. Sifted soil is the answer, spread it on top and it will wash in beneath the mulch with each watering.
Spring bulbs are starting to finish, don't be tempted to cut leaves off just yet as the bulbs top up on food for next year from the leaves as they die back.
If you have really big clumps of bulbs choking your garden space there is always someone willing to bring a spade and halve big clumps then adopting bulbs removed for their garden. Put a sign at the gate saying Bulbs to give away, bring a spade!
I have had to pull quite a few lavenders out this year because they have reached the end of their growing, After their trim back at the end of Winter they were not making a lot of new growth. Just a little bit here and there with most of the plant staying woody. If you have the odd lavender doing this pull it out and replace it with a fresh plant. I noticed last year that some plants were not doing well so I put in cuttings from stronger growing ones which I can plant out now to fill the gaps.
Take tip cuttings now from shrubs, dip them in hormone and push them into firm river sand, they will make roots over the Spring and summer ready for planting out at the end of next winter.
Keep an eye on tall growing chrysanthemums they start making growth now, I cut back the first new growth before they make hard wood. They do not flower until the Autumn so by removing the first new growth they should regrow shorter and be more manageable.
Prune fuchsias back now if you have not already done so, they will make new fresh growth, because they flower on new seasons wood they can be taken well back.
Too early yet to trim box hedges, wait until the new growth firms up a little. The perfect time to trim box in spring is when there are a few overcast days in a row, the hot sun burns new undergrowth, dull days give them time to recover.
It's time to think about Dahlias in the garden for summer colour. If you have a sunny spot that needs a bit of brightening up how about putting in a few dahlia tubers they are so reliable and there are some beautiful shades and varieties on offer now, tall, medium and dwarf. They are just starting to make a move so if you want colour to continue in your garden when the spring show is over dahlias will do the job. Dahlias like a warm full sun free draining spot, the tubas will rot if planted in ground that stays wet.
Vegetables:
I touched on Tomatoes last week because they are in the shops now. For those with glass houses, prepare the soil well by digging in good organic compost. This will need to have been heated to the point of all fungus disease being eradicated. Because our summers here in North Otago can be cool a glass or tunnel house is the a must if wanting to be a serious tomato grower. However a glass house is a perfect incubator for fungus disease during nights and dull days when moisture is not taken up quickly by plants, never let tomato plant leaves go into the night wet.
There are a lot of tomato varieties to choose from.
Beefsteak, the big tomato best for sandwiches & cooking,
Early girl, stars producing early and keeps on until late in the season,
Potentate, medium/small firm with moderate acidity and low in sugar,
Money maker, medium size and good flavor ,
Doctor Walter is the very low acid tomato
Cherry tomato's, the plant you can grow in a pot inside or on a porch, great for Childrens lunch boxes.
Russian red a tomato to grow outside in a sunny spot protected from the wind.
Heirloom tomatoes have become popular, they don't look great but they have the great taste of yesteryear.
There are others that I have not mentioned, nearly all need staked and tied up in the glass house and ALL tomato's like sun all day, 6 to 8 hours and it helps the fruit if there are fewer leaves on the plants. Tomato leaves compete for nutrients, create unwanted shade and harbor disease.
Keep planting vegetable seeds directly into the garden but don't sow too thickly mix seeds with fine soil when sowing to avoid a lot of thinning.
Planting by the moon
I thought I would add a planting by the moon section each week being the original planting method since gardening began, and spring is a great time to start.
FULL MOON
The moon is full from the 12th of this month so I will begin here with what I have learned relating to South Island New Zealand.
Flower garden:
If your dahlias over wintered in the ground then now is the time to lift and divide and replant.
Vegetables garden:
Good time to foliar feed or spray
Direct sow carrots and parsnips
Plant main crop potatoes (onto comfrey and or seaweed), carrots, beetroot, Jerusalem artichokes, yams all tubers and root crops
If you want to grow waterchestnuts put them in a plastic tub, they need 20cm of water fed with lime and cow manure.
Keep all planted beds weed free and aerated every week if possible on the waning moon
Orchard:
Good time to foliar feed for health
Moisture levels critical for shallow roots. If any of your trees are looking unhappy then carefully check their roots: are they too dry, are they repelling the water you're putting on because they are too dry. Cheers, Linda.
I have been sifting soil again this week for resowing the patches in lawn and using to add body to gardens and pots, baskets and seed trays. With all the mulches used today gardens become light and fluffy and don't hold moisture. Sifted soil is the answer, spread it on top and it will wash in beneath the mulch with each watering.
Spring bulbs are starting to finish, don't be tempted to cut leaves off just yet as the bulbs top up on food for next year from the leaves as they die back.
If you have really big clumps of bulbs choking your garden space there is always someone willing to bring a spade and halve big clumps then adopting bulbs removed for their garden. Put a sign at the gate saying Bulbs to give away, bring a spade!
I have had to pull quite a few lavenders out this year because they have reached the end of their growing, After their trim back at the end of Winter they were not making a lot of new growth. Just a little bit here and there with most of the plant staying woody. If you have the odd lavender doing this pull it out and replace it with a fresh plant. I noticed last year that some plants were not doing well so I put in cuttings from stronger growing ones which I can plant out now to fill the gaps.
Take tip cuttings now from shrubs, dip them in hormone and push them into firm river sand, they will make roots over the Spring and summer ready for planting out at the end of next winter.
Keep an eye on tall growing chrysanthemums they start making growth now, I cut back the first new growth before they make hard wood. They do not flower until the Autumn so by removing the first new growth they should regrow shorter and be more manageable.
Prune fuchsias back now if you have not already done so, they will make new fresh growth, because they flower on new seasons wood they can be taken well back.
Too early yet to trim box hedges, wait until the new growth firms up a little. The perfect time to trim box in spring is when there are a few overcast days in a row, the hot sun burns new undergrowth, dull days give them time to recover.
It's time to think about Dahlias in the garden for summer colour. If you have a sunny spot that needs a bit of brightening up how about putting in a few dahlia tubers they are so reliable and there are some beautiful shades and varieties on offer now, tall, medium and dwarf. They are just starting to make a move so if you want colour to continue in your garden when the spring show is over dahlias will do the job. Dahlias like a warm full sun free draining spot, the tubas will rot if planted in ground that stays wet.
Vegetables:
I touched on Tomatoes last week because they are in the shops now. For those with glass houses, prepare the soil well by digging in good organic compost. This will need to have been heated to the point of all fungus disease being eradicated. Because our summers here in North Otago can be cool a glass or tunnel house is the a must if wanting to be a serious tomato grower. However a glass house is a perfect incubator for fungus disease during nights and dull days when moisture is not taken up quickly by plants, never let tomato plant leaves go into the night wet.
There are a lot of tomato varieties to choose from.
Beefsteak, the big tomato best for sandwiches & cooking,
Early girl, stars producing early and keeps on until late in the season,
Potentate, medium/small firm with moderate acidity and low in sugar,
Money maker, medium size and good flavor ,
Doctor Walter is the very low acid tomato
Cherry tomato's, the plant you can grow in a pot inside or on a porch, great for Childrens lunch boxes.
Russian red a tomato to grow outside in a sunny spot protected from the wind.
Heirloom tomatoes have become popular, they don't look great but they have the great taste of yesteryear.
There are others that I have not mentioned, nearly all need staked and tied up in the glass house and ALL tomato's like sun all day, 6 to 8 hours and it helps the fruit if there are fewer leaves on the plants. Tomato leaves compete for nutrients, create unwanted shade and harbor disease.
Keep planting vegetable seeds directly into the garden but don't sow too thickly mix seeds with fine soil when sowing to avoid a lot of thinning.
Planting by the moon
I thought I would add a planting by the moon section each week being the original planting method since gardening began, and spring is a great time to start.
FULL MOON
The moon is full from the 12th of this month so I will begin here with what I have learned relating to South Island New Zealand.
Flower garden:
If your dahlias over wintered in the ground then now is the time to lift and divide and replant.
Vegetables garden:
Good time to foliar feed or spray
Direct sow carrots and parsnips
Plant main crop potatoes (onto comfrey and or seaweed), carrots, beetroot, Jerusalem artichokes, yams all tubers and root crops
If you want to grow waterchestnuts put them in a plastic tub, they need 20cm of water fed with lime and cow manure.
Keep all planted beds weed free and aerated every week if possible on the waning moon
Orchard:
Good time to foliar feed for health
Moisture levels critical for shallow roots. If any of your trees are looking unhappy then carefully check their roots: are they too dry, are they repelling the water you're putting on because they are too dry. Cheers, Linda.
Tuesday, September 27, 2011
Gardening in North Otago September 27th 2011
A chill in the air this week but still nice and sunny to bring the bees out.
This week all our gravel paths have had a work over, they pack down hard over winter and need grubbing and raking to get them weed free and looking fresh again. We use crushed marble from the Dunback Quarry this includes a good amount fines in the mix which help the gravel settle nicely.
I have had the sprayer on the go again to beat the weeds, if only the annual flowers I have planted would grow as fast!
If you do not want to use chemical sprays on annual weeds why not try some of the natural alternatives on sale, these work on hot sunny days when plants are very thirsty. The leaf of the plant collapses which means there is nothing left to support the roots causing the plant to die.
Perennial weeds like convolvulus and couch grass are not so easy to kill with alternative weed spray because their roots are long and strong but if you are prepared to keep at them, spraying what they send up you will beat them. When spraying flowering weeds be mindful of not harming bee's they are a HUGE part of natures plan for our World as we know it and need it to be.
The most economical weed control is good old common table salt, purchased in bulk or in kilo bags at agricultural outlets. Use it at the rate of 240 grams (about 12 heaped tablespoons) to a litre of warm or hot water to dissolve it, and then spray it on the foliage of the weeds, again in sunny dry conditions.
This works very fast on annual weeds but perennials probably needing further salt treatment.
If spraying only the foliage, at the above rates, there will be, little residual damage done to the soil. To make absolutely sure, give the area a good watering after the weeds have died.
Trim shrubs that flowered in late winter now before they put out new growth on past growth and get leggy, this partially applies to ericas, callunas and hebes which should not have old flowers left on to make seed as this makes them become woody.
All of this month is the time to layer azaleas and rhododendrons and low growing magnolias by pinning a low growing slim branch down to the soil and firming in with compost and soil. Hopefully by the end of this growing season this branch will have developed strong roots allowing it to be cut free from the mother plant and potted up to grow on as a new bush.
Wind put's stress on plants, trees & shrubs producing new growth, their roots are working hard and moisture is a must deep root watering is best and newly planted shrubs and trees need to be really well staked, if trunks and roots are moving around growth will be slow and stunted or not at all.
I have mentioned tubular begonias and should have added to bed them down into damp (not wet) sawdust or peat until they are sprouting well before potting or planting out. Once they are damp they must never dry out again until its time to store them again.
Lawns are growing strongly now, flat weeds and clover can be sprayed out now, liquid fertiliser can be added at the same time. Dry lawn foods need to be applied when we next get rain.
Herbs
If you have not cut your herbs back yet do it as soon as possible because they are really starting to put on growth, feed manure rich compost with lime added and keep picking often to encourage continual new growth all season for your salads and cooking.
Vegetables:
Still no white butterfly's about (in my garden) keep planting out but when the winds arrive deep watering is required. Keep mounding up potatoes as they push leaf through and cover at night should there be another cold snap which will blacken off new growth.
My peas are well up. Like climbing beans they need to be planted in an open sunny place and support has to go in when they are planted so they are not disturbed once they start growing. Once supported well you will not have to keep propping them up as they get heavier.
Cheers, Linda.
This week all our gravel paths have had a work over, they pack down hard over winter and need grubbing and raking to get them weed free and looking fresh again. We use crushed marble from the Dunback Quarry this includes a good amount fines in the mix which help the gravel settle nicely.
I have had the sprayer on the go again to beat the weeds, if only the annual flowers I have planted would grow as fast!
If you do not want to use chemical sprays on annual weeds why not try some of the natural alternatives on sale, these work on hot sunny days when plants are very thirsty. The leaf of the plant collapses which means there is nothing left to support the roots causing the plant to die.
Perennial weeds like convolvulus and couch grass are not so easy to kill with alternative weed spray because their roots are long and strong but if you are prepared to keep at them, spraying what they send up you will beat them. When spraying flowering weeds be mindful of not harming bee's they are a HUGE part of natures plan for our World as we know it and need it to be.
The most economical weed control is good old common table salt, purchased in bulk or in kilo bags at agricultural outlets. Use it at the rate of 240 grams (about 12 heaped tablespoons) to a litre of warm or hot water to dissolve it, and then spray it on the foliage of the weeds, again in sunny dry conditions.
This works very fast on annual weeds but perennials probably needing further salt treatment.
If spraying only the foliage, at the above rates, there will be, little residual damage done to the soil. To make absolutely sure, give the area a good watering after the weeds have died.
Trim shrubs that flowered in late winter now before they put out new growth on past growth and get leggy, this partially applies to ericas, callunas and hebes which should not have old flowers left on to make seed as this makes them become woody.
All of this month is the time to layer azaleas and rhododendrons and low growing magnolias by pinning a low growing slim branch down to the soil and firming in with compost and soil. Hopefully by the end of this growing season this branch will have developed strong roots allowing it to be cut free from the mother plant and potted up to grow on as a new bush.
Wind put's stress on plants, trees & shrubs producing new growth, their roots are working hard and moisture is a must deep root watering is best and newly planted shrubs and trees need to be really well staked, if trunks and roots are moving around growth will be slow and stunted or not at all.
I have mentioned tubular begonias and should have added to bed them down into damp (not wet) sawdust or peat until they are sprouting well before potting or planting out. Once they are damp they must never dry out again until its time to store them again.
Lawns are growing strongly now, flat weeds and clover can be sprayed out now, liquid fertiliser can be added at the same time. Dry lawn foods need to be applied when we next get rain.
Herbs
If you have not cut your herbs back yet do it as soon as possible because they are really starting to put on growth, feed manure rich compost with lime added and keep picking often to encourage continual new growth all season for your salads and cooking.
Vegetables:
Still no white butterfly's about (in my garden) keep planting out but when the winds arrive deep watering is required. Keep mounding up potatoes as they push leaf through and cover at night should there be another cold snap which will blacken off new growth.
My peas are well up. Like climbing beans they need to be planted in an open sunny place and support has to go in when they are planted so they are not disturbed once they start growing. Once supported well you will not have to keep propping them up as they get heavier.
Cheers, Linda.
Tuesday, September 20, 2011
Gardening in North Otago 20th September 2011
Watering is what is needed now to keep the spring growth happening after really strong winds.
This has been a good dry lambing season but we need a decent rain any time now. If rain arrives I will be out with lawn fertiliser.
This week I have been looking around and enjoying the early blossom.
If putting in a new garden this is the time to choose prunus trees and the blossom type you love. If they are not available now make a note and order for next year. Blossom is only on the tree for a short time so it should not be the only reason for choice. Height and spread should be thought about as some prunus grow very large and spread wide and low.
Fortunately today we have choice thanks to the grafting done by growers we can purchase trees on a short, or a taller graft to suit a situation. A 1.8 mtr trunk before branching will allow clearance along a drive or walk way right from planting.
Large spreading trees have large spreading roots! keep this in mind when planting near concrete and the house.
Also the leaf and blossom drop should be taken into consideration, thick blossom on paved walking areas is a real problem, it sticks to feet and is tracked inside, plus it can become very slippery to walk on. The leaf drop near pathways and roof guttering is a pain as well, but a spreading tree over grass walk ways is lovely and everything dropped can be taken up with the lawn mower.
There are so many things to consider when planting trees close to the house, but if you are like me and like the house and garden to be one then you will need to ask the right people about the right trees because there is a tree for every spot, to create the over grown look without the problems.
It really is the time for planting now to beat the weeds, I have been busy with the hoe moving the small weeds around before they get a really good hold, you will only have to blink from now on and they will be up around the ankles! pull them now before they make seed.
Seeds: sow directly into the ground or into trays of seed mix, they will be up in no time if kept well watered. Pricking out is done at the second lot of leaf stage, then plant on into containers like punnets to form strong roots before planting out, and be sure to harden off newly bought bedding plans to the out side conditions before planting them out.
Lavenders are starting to make new growth right now, they like a dressing of lime and some liquid or slow release fertiliser to help them along. If they look a bit scruffy you can trim them now and they will soon grow back and bud up.
If a lavender is looking really woody and the new growth is on the yellow side and just at the very top of the bush, dig it out and put in another one, they do not go on for ever.
We are lucky enough to have a bourgainville growing, I want to trim it back in readiness for it's new growth but I will leave it a little longer. As soon as I see new leaf buds shooting I will run the hedge trimmer over it then flood and feed it at the beginning of next month to simulate the rainy season of it's origins. Then leave it alone from then on. If you feed and water them through summer they will produce more leaf than flowers, Bourgainvillea needs to be stressed to flower their best.
Don't be tempted to transplant hellebore seedlings just yet, I know there are heaps growing around existing plants but they will only flop if you dig them out now, wait until the new leaves harden up.
It's a good time to put in stakes for delphiniums, peony roses, asters and tall phlox now before they shoot up anymore, put the support in before they need it.
Vegetable garden:
If you have not pruned back black current bushes there is still time to do it as they are just coming into leaf. My bushes are newish so I will take a few branches back hard and leave a few the length they are, then mulch with compost and a little pot ash.
Keep planting your veg before the end of September, they should then be ready for Christmas dinner.
Benny and Rua or Agria to follow.
There are lot's of different potatoes to choose from now and most have written on the bag what they are best used for, chipping, mashing or roasting. I grow Rockets & Red king for early then the good old Jersey Benny, Rua or Agria to follow.
Potatoe guide
Waxy: for boiling, salads, casseroles & soups.
: Draga
: Early new season
: Frisia
: Nandine
All purpose for most uses
: Desiree
: Rua
: Vivaldi
Flowery for mashing, wedging, roasting chips and baking.
: Agria
: Ilam hardy
: Red jackets
: Red rascal
The most important thing at this time of the year is to enjoy Spring and all it is offering.
Cheers, Linda
This has been a good dry lambing season but we need a decent rain any time now. If rain arrives I will be out with lawn fertiliser.
This week I have been looking around and enjoying the early blossom.
If putting in a new garden this is the time to choose prunus trees and the blossom type you love. If they are not available now make a note and order for next year. Blossom is only on the tree for a short time so it should not be the only reason for choice. Height and spread should be thought about as some prunus grow very large and spread wide and low.
Fortunately today we have choice thanks to the grafting done by growers we can purchase trees on a short, or a taller graft to suit a situation. A 1.8 mtr trunk before branching will allow clearance along a drive or walk way right from planting.
Large spreading trees have large spreading roots! keep this in mind when planting near concrete and the house.
Also the leaf and blossom drop should be taken into consideration, thick blossom on paved walking areas is a real problem, it sticks to feet and is tracked inside, plus it can become very slippery to walk on. The leaf drop near pathways and roof guttering is a pain as well, but a spreading tree over grass walk ways is lovely and everything dropped can be taken up with the lawn mower.
There are so many things to consider when planting trees close to the house, but if you are like me and like the house and garden to be one then you will need to ask the right people about the right trees because there is a tree for every spot, to create the over grown look without the problems.
It really is the time for planting now to beat the weeds, I have been busy with the hoe moving the small weeds around before they get a really good hold, you will only have to blink from now on and they will be up around the ankles! pull them now before they make seed.
Seeds: sow directly into the ground or into trays of seed mix, they will be up in no time if kept well watered. Pricking out is done at the second lot of leaf stage, then plant on into containers like punnets to form strong roots before planting out, and be sure to harden off newly bought bedding plans to the out side conditions before planting them out.
Lavenders are starting to make new growth right now, they like a dressing of lime and some liquid or slow release fertiliser to help them along. If they look a bit scruffy you can trim them now and they will soon grow back and bud up.
If a lavender is looking really woody and the new growth is on the yellow side and just at the very top of the bush, dig it out and put in another one, they do not go on for ever.
We are lucky enough to have a bourgainville growing, I want to trim it back in readiness for it's new growth but I will leave it a little longer. As soon as I see new leaf buds shooting I will run the hedge trimmer over it then flood and feed it at the beginning of next month to simulate the rainy season of it's origins. Then leave it alone from then on. If you feed and water them through summer they will produce more leaf than flowers, Bourgainvillea needs to be stressed to flower their best.
Don't be tempted to transplant hellebore seedlings just yet, I know there are heaps growing around existing plants but they will only flop if you dig them out now, wait until the new leaves harden up.
It's a good time to put in stakes for delphiniums, peony roses, asters and tall phlox now before they shoot up anymore, put the support in before they need it.
Vegetable garden:
If you have not pruned back black current bushes there is still time to do it as they are just coming into leaf. My bushes are newish so I will take a few branches back hard and leave a few the length they are, then mulch with compost and a little pot ash.
Keep planting your veg before the end of September, they should then be ready for Christmas dinner.
Benny and Rua or Agria to follow.
There are lot's of different potatoes to choose from now and most have written on the bag what they are best used for, chipping, mashing or roasting. I grow Rockets & Red king for early then the good old Jersey Benny, Rua or Agria to follow.
Potatoe guide
Waxy: for boiling, salads, casseroles & soups.
: Draga
: Early new season
: Frisia
: Nandine
All purpose for most uses
: Desiree
: Rua
: Vivaldi
Flowery for mashing, wedging, roasting chips and baking.
: Agria
: Ilam hardy
: Red jackets
: Red rascal
The most important thing at this time of the year is to enjoy Spring and all it is offering.
Cheers, Linda
Tuesday, September 13, 2011
Gardening in North Otago 13th September 2011
Such beauty all around to enjoy but the ever changing weather of spring certainly came into focus this week.
For me it has been on again off again frost cloth and the hose has been full on after the strong, drying winds. It is very important to keep the water up to newly planted trees and shrubs right now while they are putting out new growth and staking is another must with newly planted tall tree's, it takes at least two years before roots take a firm hold in the ground.
I have been planting out bedding plants and putting the finishing touches to new garden theme designs this week. I am sure every gardener enjoys trying new plants and colour combinations. I had a large clump of lambs ear growing in my rockery which did not need to be so large so I dug half of it out and broke it up into single plants to use around the border of a garden and as silver drifts in amongst low annuals. Silver is a shade to use as a break between strong and soft shades, will grow in sun or semi shade and lambs ear has the added bonus of being an interesting texture as well.
Keep an eye on seeds that have germinated, up until now I have had mine under frost cloth and looked at them only occasionally to see if they had struck. This week I noticed they were well up and in need of thinning out and regular watering.
I thinned them out by transplanting some like Pansy and lobelia which have shallow roots into deeper seed trays and those with longer deeper roots like lupin and oriental poppy into their own individual small root pots. The shallow rooted plants transplant well into the garden or baskets from a tray but it is best to have a well developed root ball attached to the stronger deeper rooted seedlings when planting out.
Baskets and pots need to be thought about now, again use only shallow rooted plants for baskets like pansy, lobelia, small type petunias, Virginia stock and nasturtium with lots of slow release fertiliser and water Chrystal's to keep them going.
With pots, the roots of what you want to plant will determine the size and depth of the pot. Potted roses need a deep pot which will not heat up and cook the roots at the height of summer. Tin foil around the inside of a pot before filling,( shinny side facing out) will help keep roots cool for roses, camellias, azales', hydrangeas and small trees & shrubs. All potted plants need excellent drainage and a consistent supply of food and water. if a potted plant is left to really dry out before each watering it will never thrive and look lush and healthy.
Now is the time to take tubular begonias out of dry storage, I see mine are starting to sprout a little. I have been cutting large tubas with a sharp knife into smaller individual pieces each with a noticeable shoot ready to plant into baskets and containers.
The showy red flamboyant begonias become nice big tubas in time and by cutting sections off them each year you will achieve a nice boarder of them in no time. It's best to lift them at the end of their growing season each year because like dahlias they can rot in wet ground. All begonias love any fertiliser with a seaweed of fish content.
I have just planted wild flower seeds thickly into gaps created from removing old trees and shrubs. The wild flowers will make an interesting change until I decide on permanent plantings.
Roses are really leafing up now and the warmer it becomes the more aphids ( green fly) will be about, aphids settle on the top new growth of rose bushes and are easily visible on new small leaves for you to dispose of them by removing with finger and thumb along with the fish emulsion deterrent which will confuse bugs with it smelling of protein. I leave pesticide and fungicide spraying until leaves are well grown and and hardened up a little.
New lawns can be sown now on the coast and as soon as we have a few more nice sunny days in a row to warm the ground up the grass seed will strike, as I have mentioned before seed must be sown thickly in spring to beat the annual weeds. Keep the mower blades up when cutting spring grass to allow it to thicken up and feed a little each time it rains and they will stay lush.
Vegetables
Here on the coast Plant lettuce plants at two week intervals and any spare ground could be planted out in new potatoes, they are so much better dug just before you cook them.
My board beans are well up, I was once told to plant each bean with a little pot ash to help with rust problems, they still get a little rust but I think that's probably due to them getting too dry between watering's, like corn their roots are well up near the surface, mounding soil up over their roots stops roots becoming exposed and drying out too quickly. The birds were making a feast of my young cabbage and broccoli plants so I have covered them with frost cloth weighed down at the edges with stones. It's a bit of a pain having to remove it when I water but without the birds devouring them they continue to grow well.
Cheers, Linda.
For me it has been on again off again frost cloth and the hose has been full on after the strong, drying winds. It is very important to keep the water up to newly planted trees and shrubs right now while they are putting out new growth and staking is another must with newly planted tall tree's, it takes at least two years before roots take a firm hold in the ground.
I have been planting out bedding plants and putting the finishing touches to new garden theme designs this week. I am sure every gardener enjoys trying new plants and colour combinations. I had a large clump of lambs ear growing in my rockery which did not need to be so large so I dug half of it out and broke it up into single plants to use around the border of a garden and as silver drifts in amongst low annuals. Silver is a shade to use as a break between strong and soft shades, will grow in sun or semi shade and lambs ear has the added bonus of being an interesting texture as well.
Keep an eye on seeds that have germinated, up until now I have had mine under frost cloth and looked at them only occasionally to see if they had struck. This week I noticed they were well up and in need of thinning out and regular watering.
I thinned them out by transplanting some like Pansy and lobelia which have shallow roots into deeper seed trays and those with longer deeper roots like lupin and oriental poppy into their own individual small root pots. The shallow rooted plants transplant well into the garden or baskets from a tray but it is best to have a well developed root ball attached to the stronger deeper rooted seedlings when planting out.
Baskets and pots need to be thought about now, again use only shallow rooted plants for baskets like pansy, lobelia, small type petunias, Virginia stock and nasturtium with lots of slow release fertiliser and water Chrystal's to keep them going.
With pots, the roots of what you want to plant will determine the size and depth of the pot. Potted roses need a deep pot which will not heat up and cook the roots at the height of summer. Tin foil around the inside of a pot before filling,( shinny side facing out) will help keep roots cool for roses, camellias, azales', hydrangeas and small trees & shrubs. All potted plants need excellent drainage and a consistent supply of food and water. if a potted plant is left to really dry out before each watering it will never thrive and look lush and healthy.
Now is the time to take tubular begonias out of dry storage, I see mine are starting to sprout a little. I have been cutting large tubas with a sharp knife into smaller individual pieces each with a noticeable shoot ready to plant into baskets and containers.
The showy red flamboyant begonias become nice big tubas in time and by cutting sections off them each year you will achieve a nice boarder of them in no time. It's best to lift them at the end of their growing season each year because like dahlias they can rot in wet ground. All begonias love any fertiliser with a seaweed of fish content.
I have just planted wild flower seeds thickly into gaps created from removing old trees and shrubs. The wild flowers will make an interesting change until I decide on permanent plantings.
Roses are really leafing up now and the warmer it becomes the more aphids ( green fly) will be about, aphids settle on the top new growth of rose bushes and are easily visible on new small leaves for you to dispose of them by removing with finger and thumb along with the fish emulsion deterrent which will confuse bugs with it smelling of protein. I leave pesticide and fungicide spraying until leaves are well grown and and hardened up a little.
New lawns can be sown now on the coast and as soon as we have a few more nice sunny days in a row to warm the ground up the grass seed will strike, as I have mentioned before seed must be sown thickly in spring to beat the annual weeds. Keep the mower blades up when cutting spring grass to allow it to thicken up and feed a little each time it rains and they will stay lush.
Vegetables
Here on the coast Plant lettuce plants at two week intervals and any spare ground could be planted out in new potatoes, they are so much better dug just before you cook them.
My board beans are well up, I was once told to plant each bean with a little pot ash to help with rust problems, they still get a little rust but I think that's probably due to them getting too dry between watering's, like corn their roots are well up near the surface, mounding soil up over their roots stops roots becoming exposed and drying out too quickly. The birds were making a feast of my young cabbage and broccoli plants so I have covered them with frost cloth weighed down at the edges with stones. It's a bit of a pain having to remove it when I water but without the birds devouring them they continue to grow well.
Cheers, Linda.
Tuesday, September 6, 2011
Gardening in North Otago 7th September 2011
Mmmm, warm Spring days, the season of new beginnings and this past week has convinced me that spring has arrived in North Otago although there is very little blossom in our garden yet, but something new is happening each day, sweet peas, ranunculus, anemones and tulips are through and putting on good growth. I am watching what is pushing through the pea straw and clearing a space to let light in.
We have very wide perennial boarders which insist on growing couch, biddy- bid, and chick-weed which I try to get rid of now while still small and the plants are still low. While doing this weeding I can see what needs attention like delphiniums needing stakes to give support while growing, removing mulch from around iris rhizomes and peony rose crowns and removing self sown plants and natives before they settle in.
The weeds are off to a flying start so the spraying has begun here, there are organic weed sprays on the market that work best when weeds are new and small so now is the time.
I cut the old growth from the cat-mint this week, I leave some on over the colder months to protect the new growth, once the new leaves start showing the old growth can be removed. I do the same to erigeron daisy, (sea side daisy). I also cut back my lavenders by half this week to prevent them from going woody.
Liquid feeding now on all perennials and bedding plants and a good general fertiliser watered in for trees and shrubs to help them along.
Azaleas and tulips are the exception, azaleas like fed after flowering and tulips store enough food in the bulb for their requirements. if you load them up with more they will grow more leaf than needed and hide the blooms. (No feeding for Australian or South African shrubs such as leucodendron, protea, waratah and grevillea.)
Roses, the secret to keeping roses free from is to remove all last years' diseased leaves from the ground around them and burn. Keep the food up to the bushes, starting now while they are beginning to leaf and continue right through until the end of summer. Manure enriched compost around them now will feed and protect the roots but keep it off the graft. (where the trunk is joined to the rootstock). Blood & bone, vormacast or the liquid form a worm farm is also good right now. When the ground warms up a little sprinkle the man made balanced rose fertiliser around them, these fertilisers have been designed to promote just the right amount of leaf and flower growth, and need the warmer soil to activate. Don't waste them by using them too soon.
All plants, shrubs and trees will respond to feeding now, the sap is well up and buds are swelling and bursting open.
Lets Get serious about growing vegetables!
I have come across people trying to make vegetable gardens work with limited top soil.
Sections have been cleared of top soil to build a home and the depth of soil remaining is not adequate for a good producing vegetable patch. Good deep loam containing a generous amount of humus
( organic matter) is what is required and a slightly raised deeply dug area is best. There is still time to prepare some ground for this years growing season.
1. Frame a sunny spot the size you require with Oamaru stone blocks or old railway sleepers or even small bales of straw or hay.
2. dig the area over to loosen the soil then add some clean top soil and animal manure.
3. Water deeply, then leave for a week or two to settle.
It will find it's level and you may need to add more top soil to obtain a good depth. When planting out your first crop of veg sift some weed free top soil into a wheel barrow to use along the rows to be planted out with either plants or seed. Sifted soil is nice and fine and packs tightly around new roots giving young plants a good start before roots get down into the top soil.
If space is limited why not create a no dig garden.
1. On flat ground edge an area with stone, sleepers or hay bales. ( Full sun)
2. first layer on top of the ground spread news paper a good half centimetre thick and saturate.
3. Second layer a generous amount of horse or cow manure. (this will bring the worms up)
4. Third layer, a generous amount of moist compost with some moist soil mixed plus a sprinkle of lime.
5. Forth layer, wads of lucerne hay (not too thick) wet and sprinkle a few handfuls of blood & bone on top.
5. Fifth layer more compost with soil mixed sprinkled with a little lime.
6. Soak each layer as you build
7. Sixth layer wet news paper, Oamaru mail thickness as a weed suppressant.
8. Seventh layer, top straw cover thick enough to keep light out. (except where seeds are planted)
9. Repeat layering as many times as you like to get the bulk required
10. Leave to sink and settle, this will remove air pockets, keep watering !
To plant: make holes through the wet news paper on the top layer, into the manure/soil for each plant ( leaves should be above straw in the light and roots below covered by the wet news paper and straw. Water regularly because raised gardens are quick draining.
The bed will break down into a nutrient-rich soil, so it will need to be kept topped up with organic matter like soft clippings, hay or pea straw, compost, un-sprayed grass clippings (thin layers)
I have tried no dig gardens with no soil content but found for me they did not have enough body to retain moisture in the heat of mid summer.
Why dig a garden the conventional way when there are millions of worms willing to do the work for you.
Cheers, Linda
We have very wide perennial boarders which insist on growing couch, biddy- bid, and chick-weed which I try to get rid of now while still small and the plants are still low. While doing this weeding I can see what needs attention like delphiniums needing stakes to give support while growing, removing mulch from around iris rhizomes and peony rose crowns and removing self sown plants and natives before they settle in.
The weeds are off to a flying start so the spraying has begun here, there are organic weed sprays on the market that work best when weeds are new and small so now is the time.
I cut the old growth from the cat-mint this week, I leave some on over the colder months to protect the new growth, once the new leaves start showing the old growth can be removed. I do the same to erigeron daisy, (sea side daisy). I also cut back my lavenders by half this week to prevent them from going woody.
Liquid feeding now on all perennials and bedding plants and a good general fertiliser watered in for trees and shrubs to help them along.
Azaleas and tulips are the exception, azaleas like fed after flowering and tulips store enough food in the bulb for their requirements. if you load them up with more they will grow more leaf than needed and hide the blooms. (No feeding for Australian or South African shrubs such as leucodendron, protea, waratah and grevillea.)
Roses, the secret to keeping roses free from is to remove all last years' diseased leaves from the ground around them and burn. Keep the food up to the bushes, starting now while they are beginning to leaf and continue right through until the end of summer. Manure enriched compost around them now will feed and protect the roots but keep it off the graft. (where the trunk is joined to the rootstock). Blood & bone, vormacast or the liquid form a worm farm is also good right now. When the ground warms up a little sprinkle the man made balanced rose fertiliser around them, these fertilisers have been designed to promote just the right amount of leaf and flower growth, and need the warmer soil to activate. Don't waste them by using them too soon.
All plants, shrubs and trees will respond to feeding now, the sap is well up and buds are swelling and bursting open.
Lets Get serious about growing vegetables!
I have come across people trying to make vegetable gardens work with limited top soil.
Sections have been cleared of top soil to build a home and the depth of soil remaining is not adequate for a good producing vegetable patch. Good deep loam containing a generous amount of humus
( organic matter) is what is required and a slightly raised deeply dug area is best. There is still time to prepare some ground for this years growing season.
1. Frame a sunny spot the size you require with Oamaru stone blocks or old railway sleepers or even small bales of straw or hay.
2. dig the area over to loosen the soil then add some clean top soil and animal manure.
3. Water deeply, then leave for a week or two to settle.
It will find it's level and you may need to add more top soil to obtain a good depth. When planting out your first crop of veg sift some weed free top soil into a wheel barrow to use along the rows to be planted out with either plants or seed. Sifted soil is nice and fine and packs tightly around new roots giving young plants a good start before roots get down into the top soil.
If space is limited why not create a no dig garden.
1. On flat ground edge an area with stone, sleepers or hay bales. ( Full sun)
2. first layer on top of the ground spread news paper a good half centimetre thick and saturate.
3. Second layer a generous amount of horse or cow manure. (this will bring the worms up)
4. Third layer, a generous amount of moist compost with some moist soil mixed plus a sprinkle of lime.
5. Forth layer, wads of lucerne hay (not too thick) wet and sprinkle a few handfuls of blood & bone on top.
5. Fifth layer more compost with soil mixed sprinkled with a little lime.
6. Soak each layer as you build
7. Sixth layer wet news paper, Oamaru mail thickness as a weed suppressant.
8. Seventh layer, top straw cover thick enough to keep light out. (except where seeds are planted)
9. Repeat layering as many times as you like to get the bulk required
10. Leave to sink and settle, this will remove air pockets, keep watering !
To plant: make holes through the wet news paper on the top layer, into the manure/soil for each plant ( leaves should be above straw in the light and roots below covered by the wet news paper and straw. Water regularly because raised gardens are quick draining.
The bed will break down into a nutrient-rich soil, so it will need to be kept topped up with organic matter like soft clippings, hay or pea straw, compost, un-sprayed grass clippings (thin layers)
I have tried no dig gardens with no soil content but found for me they did not have enough body to retain moisture in the heat of mid summer.
Why dig a garden the conventional way when there are millions of worms willing to do the work for you.
Cheers, Linda
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
