Gardening in Waitaki February 10th 2026

Summer dead heading roses:

Watering is once again a regular task. With high evaporation rates, it’s far more effective to deep-water directly around plant roots rather than relying on sprinklers. This encourages stronger, deeper root systems and makes better use of the water applied.Cutting back is ongoing now, and while it can feel relentless, removing tired, spent or dead growth is essential to encourage fresh, healthy regrowth. Late summer is also an excellent time for taking cuttings and propagating your own plants. By now, soft spring growth has hardened, reducing moisture loss and increasing success rates. Semi-succulent plants like geraniums (pelargoniums) and impatiens are ideal for beginners, and many shrubs also strike well now, including abelia, buxus, lavender, camellia, azalea, fuchsia and hebe. Take cuttings early in the morning, using 100–150mm tip growth, and keep them in water until potted. Work in the shade with a free-draining mix such as river sand or crusher dust. Trim below a leaf node, remove lower leaves, reduce large leaves, dip in hormone, and insert into prepared holes. Water gently and keep in light shade with a moist mix. After a couple of months, firm stems indicate roots; pot on, feed lightly, and plant out in spring.   Bulbs are appearing in garden centres now and are keen to be planted. Bulbs already contain next season’s flower, formed during the previous growing cycle. In most areas they can remain in the ground year after year, provided soil does not stay wet for long periods. Feeding once shoots appear is key to long-term success. Time is also limited for lifting and dividing congested bulb clumps while they remain dormant. Large lily clumps can be divided straight after flowering.  Anemones and ranunculus are also available now. For best results, place them in paper bags in the fridge for around a month, then soak overnight in tepid water before planting. This mimics winter chilling and stimulates growth. Stagger plantings to extend flowering. Hedges can be trimmed back hard at this time if needed. Regrowth is quick, and secateurs are often impractical in large gardens.  Roses and dahlias benefit from regular dead-heading. Cut roses back to a strong outward-facing bud and remove dahlia blooms right down to the branch. Gerberas, dahlias, delphiniums and chrysanthemums respond well to fortnightly liquid feeds. Removing excess buds on large-flowered chrysanthemums will improve bloom quality. Shrubs and trees are best shifted in winter, but preparation can be done now by wrenching — cutting roots on one side to stimulate new feeder roots while leaving the other side intact. If plants must be moved now, retain as large a root ball as possible, reduce top growth by a third, plant into a generous hole with compost added, water thoroughly, stake securely, and keep moisture consistent until settled. It is great compost weather, plenty of moisture and heat to get compost heaps cooking. If you make heaps (get the sprinkler going if rain is not going to oblige). I know we have a lot of grass clippings right now, but don't pile these onto your compost heap on their own, especially if they are wet; they will form a shield and not let the air and rain in and end up a musty, smelly mess. A compost heap needs air to work well. When starting your compost heap, roll up some wire netting and secure it with stakes. Place this in the centre and build the heap up, around and over it. The wire can be removed when the heap is well-cooked and ready to use. Another way to aerate is to place thin planks of wood at different depths across the width of the pile as you are filling. When filled, you can then move the planks up and down to let air in while decomposing. Where stock is close by, be mindful when disposing of garden waste. Many common plants are toxic to animals and children, including arum lilies, foxglove, yew, rhododendron, kowhai seeds, laburnum, ivy, potato berries and rhubarb leaves, which are found in most established gardens. Lawns show stress at this time of year. Raise mower blades to provide shade and retain moisture. Lawn weeds should be dealt with promptly, as many spread rapidly through mowing. Grass grub damage may appear now; granules can be applied through to May. During the rain is a good time to apply, or water to get where needed. Fruit: Feed citrus with citrus fertiliser and spray scale with winter oil if required. Thin congested growth to improve light and airflow. Grape vines should have fruiting leaders shortened, removing excess bunches if overloaded. Old strawberry plants should be removed; runners close to the original plant can be transplanted and watered well until established. vegetable garden, continue sowing carrots, beetroot, parsnip, spring onion, lettuce, dwarf beans, parsley and silver beet. There is still ample growing time. Seedlings will need protection from birds and white butterflies. Keep mounding late potatoes to improve yields and ensure corn is well watered and mulched — their shallow roots benefit greatly from this. Pea straw is ideal mulch and worth sourcing now.Tomatoes often need encouragement to ripen with so many dull days. Once plants have set four trusses, remove top growth so energy goes into fruit rather than flowers. Gradually reduce watering. Where spacing allows, root trimming around plants can further encourage ripening.There is much produce to harvest, store and freeze now — a satisfying reward for the season’s work and reassurance of fresh, chemical-free food for the months ahead. Cheers,Linda 

Gardening in Waitaki February 3rd 2026

What different day-to-day weather we have been experiencing. Rain is always welcome in North Otago, and combined with warmth, it also means everything starts growing with enthusiasm. Hedge trimmers will be earning their keep. Don’t be afraid to take hedges and shrubs well back if they need height and width reduced — regrowth is fast in February. The flower garden: Buddleias have been flowering for some time now, providing valuable food for butterflies. Once flowering finishes, cut them back hard to encourage fresh new growth that will carry the plant through autumn and winter. Buddleias are excellent filler shrubs, ideal for the back of borders, and their blue-green foliage remains attractive even when not in flower. Begonias, petunias, lilies, dahlias and agapanthus are all taking centre stage this month. Begonias prefer partial shade — strong sun will scorch leaves and blooms, while shade produces more foliage than flowers. They like humidity but not wet soil, so allow the top layer to dry slightly between watering and protect them from strong winds. Petunias respond well to regular dead-heading, cutting back and feeding, keeping them flowering for weeks longer. Lilies should never be allowed to dry out and benefit from mulching. Remove spent blooms so plants don’t waste energy producing seed, but leave foliage until it browns off naturally — this feeds next year’s flowers. Large clumps can be divided and moved straight after flowering. Dead-head dahlias regularly by cutting stalky growth back to a plumper stem junction to keep plants bushy and blooming. Roses are budding again after their first flush — like roses, it takes around six weeks from pruning to new flowers. Regular watering and a mulch of aged compost will keep them flowering well into early winter. Agapanthus are at their peak now. The blues cool hot summer gardens while whites lift shaded areas. They thrive on dry banks, under trees and in large spaces where they can form drifts. Divide clumps once flowering has finished. Lavenders need attention now. English lavender flowers once — cut it back by about two-thirds and apply blood and bone. Old woody plants often won’t reshoot, so take cuttings to replace them. French lavenders (stoechas and dentata), along with catmint and alyssum, will continue flowering if trimmed regularly. Bulbs: Recent rain and cold chill trigger autumn and winter bulbs into growth, so lifting and dividing congested clumps needs to be done promptly. Anemones and ranunculus are in garden centres now — chill them in paper bags in the fridge for a month, then soak overnight in tepid water before planting. Stagger plantings to extend flowering. Lift gladioli as foliage dries off and hang upside down indoors to ripen before cleaning and storing. Spring bulbs are appearing in stores — plan now and plant in clumps rather than scattered singles for the best spring impact. Seed collecting has begun again. Store dry seeds in brown paper bags in a cool, dark place. Delphinium, dianthus, marigold, sweet pea, violas, pansies and primulas can be sown now. Some plants need winter chilling to germinate, this includes aquilegia, lavender, sage, sedums, catmint and fuchsia. Birds have been busy too, leaving plenty of native seedlings throughout gardens. Small seedlings can be lifted and potted now; leave larger ones until winter for better survival. Lawns will green up quickly after rain, meaning growth won’t slow. Spot-spray weeds on a sunny day when plants are thirsty — clover, daisies and that tiny creeping weed with yellow flowers all spread rapidly if left. Lift mower blades slightly to retain moisture and avoid scalping, and occasionally leave clippings on the lawn to feed it. Preparations for autumn lawn sowing should begin now by removing perennial weeds, digging or rotary hoeing, and checking soil pH. Aim for a pH of around 6, allowing time for lime to be absorbed before fertilising. Vegetable Gardens are heading into the dry ripening phase, so cutting back plants that have finished flowering encourages fresh new growth and prevents plants from shutting down after seeding — unless seed collection is the goal. Sow autumn vegetables now, lettuce, carrots, beetroot, parsnip, silver beet, parsley and dwarf beans. Keep mounding potatoes to encourage larger tubers, and mound corn as it grows to support its shallow roots. Corn is a heavy nitrogen feeder; the more available nitrogen, the better the results. Glasshouse ripening declines during overcast days, but ripening will continue during autumn. Fruit: This is a major harvest month. Keep water up to all crops, especially late-ripening fruit trees. Birds are quick to help themselves, so harvest early where possible. Shorten fruiting leaders on grapevines if they are carrying too many bunches to improve fruit quality. Overcast days slow ripening, but a few warm sunny spells will quickly catch things up. If you are keen to grow nuts, such as walnuts, they need cold stratification; only plant those that sink in water. Cheers, Linda