Gardening in Waitaki February 10th 2026

Summer dead heading roses:

Watering is once again a regular task. With high evaporation rates, it’s far more effective to deep-water directly around plant roots rather than relying on sprinklers. This encourages stronger, deeper root systems and makes better use of the water applied.Cutting back is ongoing now, and while it can feel relentless, removing tired, spent or dead growth is essential to encourage fresh, healthy regrowth. Late summer is also an excellent time for taking cuttings and propagating your own plants. By now, soft spring growth has hardened, reducing moisture loss and increasing success rates. Semi-succulent plants like geraniums (pelargoniums) and impatiens are ideal for beginners, and many shrubs also strike well now, including abelia, buxus, lavender, camellia, azalea, fuchsia and hebe. Take cuttings early in the morning, using 100–150mm tip growth, and keep them in water until potted. Work in the shade with a free-draining mix such as river sand or crusher dust. Trim below a leaf node, remove lower leaves, reduce large leaves, dip in hormone, and insert into prepared holes. Water gently and keep in light shade with a moist mix. After a couple of months, firm stems indicate roots; pot on, feed lightly, and plant out in spring.   Bulbs are appearing in garden centres now and are keen to be planted. Bulbs already contain next season’s flower, formed during the previous growing cycle. In most areas they can remain in the ground year after year, provided soil does not stay wet for long periods. Feeding once shoots appear is key to long-term success. Time is also limited for lifting and dividing congested bulb clumps while they remain dormant. Large lily clumps can be divided straight after flowering.  Anemones and ranunculus are also available now. For best results, place them in paper bags in the fridge for around a month, then soak overnight in tepid water before planting. This mimics winter chilling and stimulates growth. Stagger plantings to extend flowering. Hedges can be trimmed back hard at this time if needed. Regrowth is quick, and secateurs are often impractical in large gardens.  Roses and dahlias benefit from regular dead-heading. Cut roses back to a strong outward-facing bud and remove dahlia blooms right down to the branch. Gerberas, dahlias, delphiniums and chrysanthemums respond well to fortnightly liquid feeds. Removing excess buds on large-flowered chrysanthemums will improve bloom quality. Shrubs and trees are best shifted in winter, but preparation can be done now by wrenching — cutting roots on one side to stimulate new feeder roots while leaving the other side intact. If plants must be moved now, retain as large a root ball as possible, reduce top growth by a third, plant into a generous hole with compost added, water thoroughly, stake securely, and keep moisture consistent until settled. It is great compost weather, plenty of moisture and heat to get compost heaps cooking. If you make heaps (get the sprinkler going if rain is not going to oblige). I know we have a lot of grass clippings right now, but don't pile these onto your compost heap on their own, especially if they are wet; they will form a shield and not let the air and rain in and end up a musty, smelly mess. A compost heap needs air to work well. When starting your compost heap, roll up some wire netting and secure it with stakes. Place this in the centre and build the heap up, around and over it. The wire can be removed when the heap is well-cooked and ready to use. Another way to aerate is to place thin planks of wood at different depths across the width of the pile as you are filling. When filled, you can then move the planks up and down to let air in while decomposing. Where stock is close by, be mindful when disposing of garden waste. Many common plants are toxic to animals and children, including arum lilies, foxglove, yew, rhododendron, kowhai seeds, laburnum, ivy, potato berries and rhubarb leaves, which are found in most established gardens. Lawns show stress at this time of year. Raise mower blades to provide shade and retain moisture. Lawn weeds should be dealt with promptly, as many spread rapidly through mowing. Grass grub damage may appear now; granules can be applied through to May. During the rain is a good time to apply, or water to get where needed. Fruit: Feed citrus with citrus fertiliser and spray scale with winter oil if required. Thin congested growth to improve light and airflow. Grape vines should have fruiting leaders shortened, removing excess bunches if overloaded. Old strawberry plants should be removed; runners close to the original plant can be transplanted and watered well until established. vegetable garden, continue sowing carrots, beetroot, parsnip, spring onion, lettuce, dwarf beans, parsley and silver beet. There is still ample growing time. Seedlings will need protection from birds and white butterflies. Keep mounding late potatoes to improve yields and ensure corn is well watered and mulched — their shallow roots benefit greatly from this. Pea straw is ideal mulch and worth sourcing now.Tomatoes often need encouragement to ripen with so many dull days. Once plants have set four trusses, remove top growth so energy goes into fruit rather than flowers. Gradually reduce watering. Where spacing allows, root trimming around plants can further encourage ripening.There is much produce to harvest, store and freeze now — a satisfying reward for the season’s work and reassurance of fresh, chemical-free food for the months ahead. Cheers,Linda