Gardening in North Otago September 24 2014

The ever changing weather of spring certainly came into focus this week, with very chilly then warm nor wester days which meant hosing topped the list of things to do with so much lush new growth happening moisture needs to be kept up.

This week all our gravel paths have had a work over, they pack down hard over winter and need grubbing and raking to get them weed free and looking fresh again. We use crushed marble from the Dunback Quarry this includes a good amount fines in the mix which help the gravel settle nicely.

Also during the week I potted on lavender and hedge cuttings taken at the end of last summer. Hedges are not for everyone because of needing to be trimmed, I love a nice hedge separating areas in a garden and because a lot of plants are required to grow a hedge I like to try my hand at cuttings. I also planted fast growing gap fillers into containers which I plan to use in my long perennial boarders once Lillie's, peony roses and other spring and summer flowering plants have finished. I plant them now so good roots establish, then cut them back and let them regrow to take them right through until the beginning of next winter. Plants I use for this are mignonette, Anthriscus sylvestris ‘(Raven’s Wing), Marguerite daisy, geranium, cineraria  silver dust and fuchsia.

Now is the time to take tubular begonias out of dry storage, I see mine are starting to sprout a little. I have been cutting large tubas with a sharp knife into smaller individual pieces each with a noticeable shoot ready to plant into baskets and containers.
The showy red flamboyant begonias become nice big tubas in time and by cutting sections off them each year you will achieve a nice boarder of them in no time. It's best to lift them at the end of their growing season each year because like dahlias they can rot in really wet ground like it has been this year. All begonias love any fertiliser with a seaweed of fish content.

All of this month is the time to layer azaleas and rhododendrons and low growing magnolias, any shrubs that lay their branches close to the ground can put out roots by pinning a low growing slim branch down to the soil and firming in with compost and soil. Hopefully by the end of this growing season this branch will have developed strong roots, leave growing like this off the Mother plant for another year then cut free and pot up to grow on as a new bush.

Lawns,
New lawns sown now on the coast and as soon as we have a few nice sunny days in a row to warm the ground up the grass seed will strike, as I have mentioned before seed must be sown thickly in spring to beat the annual weeds.
Keep the mower blades up when cutting spring grass to allow it to thicken up and feed a little each time it rains and they will stay lush..


Vegetables:
Still no white butterfly's about (in my garden) keep planting out but with the winds deep watering is required. Keep mounding up potatoes as they push leaf through and cover at night should there be another cold snap which will blacken off new growth.
I have had peas in over winter and they are now producing full pods for our little Grandies. Like climbing beans, peas they need to be planted in an open sunny place and support has to g o in when they are planted so they are not disturbed once growing.
I have had some climbing beans in my plastic zip up for a couple of weeks but no sign of them yet, beans like the ground to be warm before they get going.
All the veg seeds I planted at the same time are up and doing well, tomato, lettuce, carrot,corn and silverbeet that I grow year round for my chooks and birds.

Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in North Otago September 17th 2014

Rain at last in North Otago and what a difference it has made to new growth and the lawns. I was out in the rain with the lawn fertiliser to boost them even more.
We now have the hum of bees back with the flowering cherries in blossom, I was beginning to get a little worried by their absence. It's a joy to be planting out bedding plants and putting the finishing touches to gardens this week. I think every gardener enjoys trying new plants and colour combinations and now is the perfect time to sow seeds for summer flowering, but keep an eye on seeds if you have them germinated. Until now I have had mine under glass and some hardening off under frost cloth, this week I noticed they are up and in need of thinning and regular watering. I thinned them by transplanting some like Pansy and dianthus which have shallow roots into deeper seed trays and those with longer deeper roots like lupin, hellebore and Oriental poppy into their own individual small root pots. The shallow rooted plants transplant well into the garden or baskets from a tray but it is best to have a well developed root ball attached to the stronger, deep rooted seedlings when planting out.
Baskets and pots need to be thought about now, again use only shallow rooted plants for baskets like pansy, lobelia, small type petunias, nemesia, and trailers like Virginia stock and dwarf sweet pea, with the addition of slow release fertiliser and water Chrystal's to keep them going. The roots of what you want to plant will determine the size and depth of a pot.

I have removed a lot of old stalky lavenders that were on their final chance to thrive last growing season. English lavenders eventually get leggy and past it, don't nurse them thinking they will come back because they will probably not, dig them out and replace with new fresh plants.
I looked around the garden for plants to make an edge to take place of where a row of lavender had been, I have new lavender plants now in the spot but they are as yet tiny. I found just the thing, a large clump of lambs ear growing in my rockery which had doubled in size, I dug half of it out and broke it up into single plants. Silver is a perfect shade to use as a break between strong and soft shades and will grow in sun or semi shade, lambs ear also has the added bonus of being an interesting texture.

Potted roses and hydrangeas need a deep pot which will not heat up and cook the roots at the height of summer. Tin foil around the inside of a pot before filling,( shinny side facing out) will help keep roots cooler, for roses, camellias, azales, hydrangeas and small trees and shrubs. All potted plants need excellent drainage and a consistent supply of food and water. If a potted plant is left too dry, for too long between  watering's it will never thrive or look lush and healthy.

Roses are really leafing up now and the warmer it becomes the more aphids ( green fly) will be about, aphids settle on the top new growth of rose bushes and are easily visible on new small leaves for you to dispose of by removing with finger and thumb. I leave spraying until leaves are well grown and have hardened up a little.

Lawns:
New lawns sown on the coast should result in a strike now that the ground is warmer, as I have mentioned before seed must be sown thickly in spring to beat the annual weeds. Keep the mower blades up when cutting spring grass to allow it to thicken up and feed lawns just before or during rain and they will stay lush.
Vegetables:
 Here on the coast Plant lettuce plants at two week intervals and any spare ground could be planted out in seed potatoes. My board beans are well up and flowering, I was once told to plant each bean with a little pot ash to help with rust problems, they still get a little rust but I think that's probably due to them getting too dry between watering's, like corn, roots are well up near the surface, mounding soil up over roots stops them becoming exposed and drying out too quickly.
Strawberries are starting to move towards budding, they need fed, watered and mulched, animal manure and straw, pine needles or un sprayed grass clippings will do the trick.
Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in North Otago September 10th 2014

North Otago is looking so pretty after some nice sunny days this week, masses of lovely blossom and daffodils everywhere, 

"Spring makes it's own statement, so loud and clear that the gardener seems to be only one of the instruments, not the composer."~

G. B Charlesworth.

This week I have been working on my ponds,over flowing them and cleaning out leaves. Water lillies, oxygen weed and water iris's are starting to make a move. A couple of years ago a helper and I removed all the yellow bog iris's from the big pond, this was a much needed job because this common yellow iris was spreading so fast and took up a quarter of the pond with mat it's forming roots ( lesson learned, don't plant yellow bog iris in a domestic pond) The place for this iris is along the banks of a creek, the fibrous roots are fantastic at holding the sides back from erosion. Don't be tempted to add bull rushes to a domestic pond either, they also spread too quickly. 

Now the sap is up, I have been removing unwanted growth from prunus trees, (flowering cherry) it has been said that this is the best time to make cuts in prunus to avoid the spread of silver leaf which can spread from tree to tree while in the dormant stage. Cut out  any weak growth and cross over branches before they grow thick. After fruiting take the height down on fruiting cherries & plums if they have grown beyond picking height as they tend to fruit on the top branches.   

Cut out all dead branches from beneath Kilmarnoch willows if you have them, this is the ornamental pussy willow used so often now in small gardens. Each new branch grows out from the bud of last years growth. All subsequent years growth dies and builds up under the new growth. The grafted weeping tree is much nicer to look at with all those dead branches removed and it is easier to do this when bare of leaves.

Keep feeding new spring growing plants (other than bulbs ) with liquid plant food to encourage strong growth and plant, plant, plant all the pretty spring seedlings on offer now.

Lawns, 

Lawns benifit greatly from an early spring feed of lawn fertiliser but this works best with rain to wash it in. Because we have had no rain as yet I have been moving the sprinkler around. 

Vegetables:

The soil is warming up and the sun is staying around longer. Everything is now coming to life for spring, so this is a busy time for gardeners who will be sowing, planting and fertilising their edible gardens.

Get pumpkin, butternut and squash seeds started now under protection, they need a long warm growing season to grow and ripen.

It is good to be planting salad veg again, keep planting leafy veg as you use the veg you have carried over the winter months...still no white butterflies or aphids about in my garden. As an early season deterrent start spraying fish emulsion on both veg and flowering plants. This will feed the plants and repel pests by fooling them into thinking their favorite food is now protein not vegetable. Have some ready in a spray bottle to repeat after rain.

Once seed potatoes have sprouted get them in the ground. Our Weston School caretaker supplied the Children,s garden  with cut down car tyres to fill with the fantastic compost he has made to plant out in potatoes. Four seed potatoes in each tyre and once leaves appear another tyre is placed on top and filled with more compost, four more potatoes are planted in this tyre. The tyres are said to keep the growing conditions warmer than the ground. When grown we will have 5 x two tyres high of new pototoes, Yum! 

Fruit: All deciduous fruit trees can still be planted in September while the plants are just coming out of dormancy . The widest selection will be available in garden stores now.  All fruits require a position in full sun. Shelter from prevailing winds is preferable.

Spray stone fruit trees on bud burst with Super Copper to protect from leaf curl disease. 

Strawberries: will do well with a dressing of feriliser specifically formulated with extra potassium, I am sure there will be one on offer especially for strawberries.

All other berries on offer should be planted now to settle in to a season of fruiting.

Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in North Otago August 26th 2014

Some sunny days this week but still that chill in the air to hold spring back a little, but that is as it should be and the chill holds the bugs back as well.
I have noticed the absence of bees here in my garden even on the sunny days which is a worry because my apricot tree and early peas are in flower as I am sure other Gardeners are. How needed those busy bees are in the very important part they play in Nature.

Garden centers are filling up with wonderful well grown bedding plants, some even in flower which makes me think they will need to be hardened off before being planted out while frosts are around. The best idea is to buy while there is a good selection on offer and hold them in a sheltered place out doors for a week or two before planting out.

Roses on sale now are all leafing up in their bags, it is still ok to plant them for a while yet while the ground is moist and cold. They will be making feeder roots into the the planter bags so planting will need to done carefully from now on so not to disturb those new feeder roots.

We have had the hedge trimmer out to clean up winter top growth, on plants like catmint, ericas, abutilon, lavatera, pittosporums, dentata lavender and erigeron daisy I have as edging all of these have started pushing out new seasons growth and will recover from a cut back very quickly at this time of the year here on the coast.
Trees and shrubs
There are some lovely magnolias and michelia's flowering in gardens now and on offer in Garden centers, all in bud. However to get plants to look so good this early in the South Island they will have had protected growing conditions so if buying I would enjoy them in their planter bags protected from frosts for a while before planting out. One lovely small magnolia I noticed is called Fairy blush, it is an evergreen which grows bushier and smaller than the original Grandiflora magnolias. This one can be grown as a hedge or in a large pot. magnolias resent having their fleshy roots disturbed so be very careful when planting. Also keep an eye out for flowering camellias and rhododendrons now in the garden centers, most are showing buds and flowers, this is the time to choose the right shades for your garden. Keep planting seasonal bulbs and tuberous begonias as they become available, such a great investment for every garden.

Lawns
I had the lawn mower out for the first mow of the new season in the weekend, mostly to clean up mess from the cutting back, they came up really well but will not make a move I feel until they have had a good feed during a decent shower of rain. I feed them with nitrophoska blue at this time of the year which I have found is a good boost for grass coming back from winter conditions. Like all lawn fertiliser  nitrophoska blue requires being watered in before it can become available to roots.

Vegetables
Its all on now for sowing as many seeds as you have room for and planting leaf veg before the white butterfly's arrive here on the coast,
keep the hoe moving between rows to keep weeds down, this movement will also keep soil warmer. Protection will still be needed further inland.
Seed Potatoes are available now for sprouting – place on a tray in a dry area until the ‘eyes’ are at least 2cm long. Early varieties around now include Swift, Rocket and Cliffs Kidney
Onions – spring, red or the popular Pukekohe ‘Long Keeper’ can be planted now, provided the soil is draining well.

At last I have managed to finish in my strawberry bed, weeded, cut back the leaves on plants that fruited for the first time last summer, finished planting out new runner plants, added manure enriched compost, gave a deep watering, then finally covered the bed in barley straw, Ya! thank goodness that is now out of the way.
I created a raised strawberry bed last year by using two logs high edging to raise the bed up higher than ground level, Strawberry plants benefit from manure buried in shallow trenches along the side of the rows then when they start growing a dressing of fertiliser high in potash for good fruit development, straw or pine needles around the plants keep the fruit clean and deter bugs. Putting out runners weakens a strawberry plant, best to remove the runners before new growth begins. I don't keep plants any longer that two fruiting seasons and always plant a bed of new runner plants which will take place of the second year fruiting plants which have been removed.

I also finished pruning my wine grapes, once I found some  secateurs! I have been blaming myself for being too careless but finally found the culprit, Scruff, that small shaggy dog who now lives here was caught in the act trotting off with mouth full, ready to have a chew on the handles and then leave where ever! I am missing three pair last count. Back to the grapes, I noticed the buds were swelling so needed to get the pruning done as soon as possible because once in leaf the sap is high, pruning at this stage will result in the pruning wounds bleeding. To prune a fruiting grape leader cut all side growth on the vine back to the second bud. These fruiting buds should be around a hand space apart to ensure adequate sized fruit, this means removing some of the new bud growth along the top of the leader and all of the new bud growth growing underneath. Some of these new budding top growths will throw two lots of bud branch, remove the least stronger one leaving only one lot of double buds to produce fruit.

Cheers, Linda

Gardening in North Otago August 20th 2014

This week I have been doing the last of the pruning and start of the winter clean up around gardens. I have cut back woody munstead lavenders, some will survive but as lavenders give up after a few years I don't expect all of them to come away again. Those that don't are easily replaced with new freshly grown plants, these English munstead lavenders are a front border of a rose garden which I have had years of pleasure from. Lavenders need feeding now as they start to put out new spring growth. Slow release complete plant fertiliser along with a little lime will boost them. Any plants that are starting to push out spring growth will benefit from feeding, I have noticed my peony roses are pushing up through the pea straw so I now must watch where I put my feet because at this stage the shoots will break off if bumped. 

If you have not trimmed back ornamental grass's do it now, cut the old seeded ends well back and clean out the dead thatch around the base, its amazing how much you will need to cart away after a hair cut but they will look wonderful and will grow back to their soft wafting shape in no time. Use what you have cut off as mulch around the garden, a cover for the compost or in the chook house if you have one.

I guess the weeds are growing again at your place as they are at mine! I had the sprayer out last week and I see this week it has worked so it must be warm enough now, however with the ground being still soft hand and hoe weeding is really easy, get weeds out before they take off and seed everywhere, or dig them in before they seed. 

Get summer flowering seeds in now, seeds I plan to sow soon are lobelia, petunia, nemesia, saliva, nasturtium and marigolds all these summer annuals need sun light and protection with plastic or glass through the day and frost cloth nightly until frosts are over and night temperatures are milder. Water seed trays early in the day and only when dry on top. When seeds have germinated apply liquid fertiliser once a week, then prick out of seed trays and grow on in a deeper compost / potting mix, keep protected, liquid feed once a week then hardened plants off by putting trays out in the open for a week or two before planting out into the garden. 

Lawns 

It would pay to have lawn fertiliser on hand for when it rains, grass is beginning to awake from dormancy and a well feed lawn is a healthy lush lawn that should leave no room for those annual spring lawn weeds to grow.

Prepare the ground now for new lawn sowing, let the weed seeds and couch grass come up then spray it, or if only a small area the chemical-free way, dig weeds out before the ground is still to cold to sow grass seed. When nights become milder and the ground warms up sow seed thickly, water early in the day allowing time for ground to retain the warmth of the day into the night and grass seed will strike quickly leaving no room for flat weeds. Annual weeds will mow out with the first mow, do not feed newly sown lawns until they have toughened up. 

 Vegetables 

Sow leaf veg seeds into seed raising trays and prick out and pot on to get a good root mass before planting into the garden, again water early in the day so they don't go into the night cold and wet.

Glass houses come into use from now on for raising seedlings but they still get very cold over night at this time of the year so frost cloth will be needed for a little longer yet. I see tomato plants on offer in Garden centers, they will need to be nursed along right now and protected at night. If temperatures are too cold for them they will just sit, look sad and leaves will curl, tomato plants should never go into the night wet.

Cheers, Linda

Gardening in North Otago August 13th 2014

Spring has sprung, unpredictable days, heat in the still low sun here on the coast and us gardeners paying full attention forecasts.

The hose has been out in my garden after all the strong winds over the past couple of weeks, trees and shrubs shifted over the winter need the water kept up and stakes firmed to allow new roots to take hold.
Folia feeding is beneficial now as well as the ground warms and plants are looking for nutrients. I have worm tea but watered down horse or cow manure is a useful and inexpensive folia or root food especially around the roots of roses while they are pushing out new buds.
It is at this time of the year I notice yellowing of some plants, the ground gets depleted of nitrogen during winter especially when plants are shallow rooted like camellias, azaleas and rhododendron, give them a feed with an acid fertiliser especially formulated for them.( If powder water in)
Potted plants that make a lot of roots and have out grow their containers will soon show poor growth but these plants can be revived by either re-potting them into a larger pot or reducing the root mass by half then re-potting back into the same pot. I remove excess roots by removing the root bound plant from the pot, lay it on the ground then I use a sharp spade to chop the root ball in half. Once potted up again I apply slow release fertilizer and compost to either soil or a heavy tree and shrub mix and hope for rain to add more nutrients.
With all the slow release fertilisers on offer now it's makes it easy to choose the right one for all plants.

I started spraying weeds a couple of weeks ago, on the warm days and see now that it has worked, this will remain an on going task from now on until next winter.

Lawns
Moss can be delt to in lawns, pathways and garden structures. There are a lot of products out there to deal with moss but killing the moss in lawns is simply a short term measure, it dose not address the basic problem. If you really want to eradicate moss from your lawn, then you have to find the problem causing it. The reasons are varied, but not too difficult to isolate.
Things that would be causing moss in your lawn could be:
Water logging - in winter or summer.
Poor feeding regime - usually shown by light green grass.
Soil too acid - carry out a test, lime may be needed.
Shaded Lawns - overhanging trees or large shrubs.
Mowing lawns too close is a very common cause, for it weakens the grass allowing moss to take hold.
Drought - if severe enough to harm or kill the grass. Not to be confused with a bit of summer-browning
Sandy - free-draining soils. This can weaken the grass and allow moss to take over. Some mosses are quite happy in these conditions. Add humus (compost or sieved soil) to add more body and rake in, this will encourage worms as well.
Compaction - continued use by children and pets with no remedial attention by way of aeration in the Autumn.
Generally, lawns that are well maintained - which includes being well fed, cut properly, aerated and de-thatched - problems which result in moss will not occur. Moss rarely competes with strong growing grass in lawns. Get the grass growing properly starting with the first spring feeding when temperatures rise soon. Slow release grass fertliser is ideal when the ground is wet and rain is about to happen.
Treating small areas of moss in lawns can be carried out with sulphate of iron watered on at the strength displayed on the pack per sq meter, the moss will turn black and after a couple of weeks you can rake out the dead moss and re-seed.


Vegetables

Pick winter crops while still at their best - Fold cauliflower leaves over and tie to protect from frost and keep florets tight.

Asparagus is a vegetable that repays planting over many years. To prepare beds cultivate deeply and add generous amounts of compost. Existing asparagus beds should be cultivated carefully to avoid damaging the crowns that lie just below the surface, add a new layer of mulch.

Here on the coast get spring sowings off to an early start now, use a row of cloches or a stretch of clear polythene to warm and dry out the soil.
Further inland the soil will take a bit of thawing out before any planting Can be done but the garden can be prepare by digging in compost / humus.
Potatoes need to be sprouted now then into the ground for early crop, people have been telling me of the benefits gained from planting potatoes on a bed of pine needles, I lay them on comfry leaves but will use some pine needles as well this year.

Fruit

My peach tree is just at bud burst right now so will spray with a copper spray for leaf curl, once in blossom it is too late to spray.
If you have not already pruned your peach or nectarine tree I will run through how to go about it, recovery will be quicker now the sap has risen.
1. For the glass shape pick four main scaffold branches and simplify, cut larger branches needing removed close to the trunk, leave a collar, it will encourage tree borer.
2. Remove small weak upright branches on trunk or main branches.
3. Leave 50 to 75% pencil thick shooting wood per tree.
Both peach and nectarine fruit on wood developed last summer. Inspect the buds on newer wood, single buds are leaf buds, double buds are immature fruit buds and triple buds are mature fruit buds. Cut to an outward facing double bud, leave triples.

Cheers, Linda

Gardening in North Otago August 5th 2014

Some amazingly warm days have been experienced in the last fortnight for a time still considered winter! much is beginning to awake in the garden and spring is defenatly in the air with swelling of buds, fragrance from winter sweet, witch hazel, Daphne, boronia and violets wafting to the music I am lucky enough to have playing around our garden. The birds are beginning to nest and I see the first blossom, jonquils and daffodils gracing fence lines in our garden and about the town.. I have shifted clumps of tall white phlox, they had become shaded and too protected by growing trees, these tall white phlox have a wonderful musk perfume which I look forward to wafting about the garden in the late afternoon. Tall phlox come in a number of shades, and die down over winter, they need all day sun in a open windy spot or they can be susceptible to powdery mildew.   

I have filled plastic 2 liter milk containers with worm tea from my worm farm, adding at the strength of black tea to a full watering can, to apply generously to new leaf, budding and flowering plants like pollyanthas, forget-me-nots, dianthus, sweet peas, pansy, viola. Any new plantings can be Helped along along by feeding now to get their roots going and keep them green and strong through any cold snaps yet to come.

Slow release fertiliser is a good idea now as well, sprinkle around established ornamental and newly planted trees and shrubs to be there now plants are needing food on awaking. This week I have pruned more of my hydrangeas, the wood has hardened and bud are plump, Prune only those stems that have flowered, cut at the second bud from the bottom, leave all other stems because these are the flowers for this year. Spread old stable manure around the drip line and a dressing of lime for pink flowers and aluminum sulphate for blue, White never changes, but are best planted in light shade. 

If the PH of your soil is high blue hydrangeas will always revert to pink no matter how often you add aluminum to the soil. Pot grown hydrangea's can be controlled successfully by tailoring soil to requirements, peat, pine needles and coffee grinds can be added to an acid planting mix for blue and lime can be added for pink blooms without the worry of anything leching in around the roots as it would when hydrangeas are planted in the ground. Pot grown hydrangeas need to be watered daily during summer.

Cuttings from the hardened geranium steams can be taken now, fresh grown geraniums give amazing colour to a warm sunny garden for all of the growing season and even into the winter, they are so easy to grow from cuttings. Take short cuttings, semi hard wood, (not a new green steam) and let them dry out a little before planting, this means you don't have to deal with them straight away. Plant them firmly into a soil and river sand mix, Potting mix is too light to get a tight seal around cuttings. I am forever taking cuttings off geraniums I like when I come across them in other gardens, and giving cuttings from mine. 

Trim dentata lavender now if you haven't already after it's winter flowering. Dentata is the tall growing one with the pale lavender bumblebee flower and serrated leaf.

They are budding up now, so will recover quickly from a cut back, leave trimming other lavenders until it is warmer but you can give all lavenders a dressing of lime.

Keep planting dahlias and gladioli from now until September and cut back leggy, straggly bush lavatera, they get very woody if left 

I can't stress enough about the importance of feeding roses now they are making a move to bud up, powdered rose food needs watered in around the drip line, slow release fertiliser will work each time it rains, manure around the drip line not up against the crown.

Vegetables 

It has been so good not to have to worry about bugs during the last few months when planting out leaf veg. 

Gardeners in cold frosty areas will be making a start now, add compost and a little lime in readiness for when you plant later this month.

It is seed potato time again, potatoes have a natural dormancy from the time they are harvested to when they begin to sprout, starting their next growth cycle. This can only be modified slightly by storage conditions. I set them out in a box on damp news paper, and leave in a dark place in the warmth of the house. Some leave them in a warm well lit place, what ever works for you I go with the theory that it is very dark down in the soil where they eventually end up. Seed potatoes are on offer now at our local Sunday market.

FIRST EARLY VARIETIES: Cliffs Kidney, Jersey Bennes, Maris Anchor, Rocket.

SECOND EARLY Ilam Hardy, Karaka, Red king.

MAIN CROP: Desiree,Agria  Mondial, Nadine, Pentland Dell, Red Rascal, Rua 

Cheers, Linda