Gardening in North Otago October 28th 2016

And now it is November and this spring is proving to be as spring should be, warmth with moisture and much growth. Still lovely blossom dripping from trees here with prunus kanzan and shimidsu sakura taking center stage. My roses were pruned late so are only just budding, ready to take over from all the camellias, rhododendrons, viburnums, lilacs and so much more. Iris's are pushing through fat buds, I have needed to remove mulch from iris rhizomes, they push themselves out of the ground now to be exposed to the sun. As the mass's of forget -me-not growing here start to make seed plants now need to be sorted from home grown stocks to fill gaps as they are cut back. Some gardeners pull forget-me-not out after flowering, I cut it back hard and it clumps up with fresh green leaf through summer to flower again next spring. In my stocks are cosmos, marigolds, , petunias, bedding dahlia's and blue salvia will go where the red tulips were for a summer show. Cat-mint edging is starting to show colour, while it is happening sections with roots can be pulled from the main clump and potted up to grow a root ball, then planted out as edging in another part of the garden, cat-mint is such a pretty edging which can be cut back after the first flowering to flower again. Trim spent blooms from flowering perennials and daisy bushes often to keep them bushy and continuously in flower, if you let flower heads go to seed the bush or plants will become woody. Cut chrysanthemums and perennial asters back now so they will grow up a second time but hopefully not so tall and fall all over the place, their flowering time is not until the end of Summer. Chrysanthemum tips can be put into river sand to make roots for new plants. Planting on a slope: Spring is a good time to plant out a slope or bank, the ground is moist and plant roots are growing fast which means they will get a good hold before the dreaded winds arrive. Spray out all weeds, they will compete with moisture that your plants will need. If it is possible terracing a steep slope with rocks or sleepers would be beneficial to hold moisture around the roots. If this cannot be done try not to disturbed soil/clay in areas that are not being planted. If the soil is disturbed and broken up it will wash away with rain and watering. Planting; Dig a hole that is deep into the bank and shallow at the front, (an angle hole) this will create a hollow reserve for water. Make sure it dips down at the back for water to pool. Use stones around each plant, this will help in preventing wind blowing soil away from the roots. Choose plants that grow in dry conditions, like South African plants; grevillea, leucadendron, Proteas, ask the Garden center assistant what survives well in a pot without a lot of watering. The plants they can leave for a while and they still look good when dried out. I have massed lupins to fill the gaps on my bank until all the other plants get bigger. Soft growth off some of my hedges can be trimmed this month, if a hedge has reached the height required best to take the soft growth off before the foliage beneath gets too much protection from top growth, Winter hardened the under growth and it should still be strong enough not to get sunburned when exposed to sun. Leave box hedging until the end of the month, if trimmed too soon new growth keeps pushing out, all soft trimmings can go in the compost or on the garden as mulch. Grass, Grass. Grass...So much mowing! If like us you have not had to spray lawn weeds out yet you can sprinkle your clippings around the garden as humus but not in thick piles, spread it out so it can break down fast. Your garden can take as much fresh green growth as you throw at it now the warmth is here. Resown patches left from grass grub and moss removal damage will repair fast now if water is kept up and birds kept off, try covering with shade cloth until seed has germinated, works for me. Veg Garden Growth is amazing this spring with the warmth and moisture we are receiving, potatoes are up for mounding, root veg ready for thinning, leaf veg is heartening up and no white butterflies here to annoy them yet, I am picking young broad beans that keep producing heaps of flowers, no rust nor an aphid to be seen! runner beans have popped through so the ground is warm enough for all beans now and corn plus all from the pumpkin family. Fruit Fruit bushes and trees are responding to spring as they should, the bees have done a wonderful pollinating job and we should all get bumper crops with the right amount of sun and moisture. Mulch around the drip line of all fruiting trees and shrubs to keep moisture from evaporating while fruit is forming.....it's all on now for growing our own food. Cheers Linda.

Gardening in North Otago October 18th 2016

Warm spring days and yes....that October wind once again to spread blossom confetti around North Otago but Spring bulbs and blossom are still a joy to behold as I drive past town and country gardens, ending much too quickly as trees become draped in fresh new leaves. In the garden growth is rampant, Gardeners will have been tossing up between a getaway in the long weekend or getting stuck in! for us it was getting stuck in because of the beautiful wedding that took place in our garden on Labor Saturday. A tulip display in the main garden came to grief during the strong winds last week so I dug them up with green tops still attached, healed them in the ground until die back has finished then will store them in a dry place away from hungry rats. That garden got compost dug in and is now awaiting blue saliva to put on a little more growth before planting for the summer display. Many other bulbs are finishing now, I let only bluebells make seed and cut spent flowers stems out of all other bulbs but leaving leaves in tact to die back into the bulb. If spent daffodils become a nuisance or look untidy bundle them together in a knot to reduce the spread, bulbs need the nutrition from photosynthesis in the leaves to feed them for next years bloom and if you have really big clumps of bulbs choking your garden space there will always be someone willing to bring a spade and take half, once died down, maybe put a sign at the gate saying "Bulbs to give away, bring a spade"! Lavenders, I have had to pull quite a few out this year because they have reached the end of growing nicely, after a trim back at the end of Winter they were not making a lot of new growth, Just a bit here and there with most of the plant staying woody. If you have the odd lavender doing this pull it out and replace it with a fresh plant. Cut back fuchsias now to encourage fresh new growth, most of last years hard wood can be cut back hard. Fuchsia cuttings can be taken at any time of the year except winter but earlier in the year like right now will get best results while we are pinching out the growing tips to stimulate a bushy habit. These pinched out tips can become cuttings, pinch out below the tip and past the next set of leaves. Your cutting should have the tip leaves, stem, then two more leaves and another section of short stem. Remove the lower leaves, dip the cutting into rooting powder and plant into river sand right up over the nodule's remaining from where the two removed leaves were. Pop cuttings in sheltered shade and keep moist until they produce roots then pot up, protect through next winter and plant out this time next year. Keep an eye on tall growing chrysanthemums they start making growth now, I cut back the first new growth before they make hard wood. They do not flower until the Autumn so by removing the first new growth they should regrow shorter and be more manageable. Some hedges have been trimmed here, the soft trimmings can be spread around the garden along with fresh grass clippings, too early yet to trim box hedges, wait until the new growth firms up more. The perfect time to trim box in late spring is when there are a few overcast days in a row, hot sun burns new undergrowth, dull days will allow time to recover. It's time to think about Dahlias in the garden for summer colour. If you have a sunny spot that needs a bit of brightening up how about putting in a few dahlia tubers they are so reliable and there are some beautiful shades and varieties on offer now, tall, medium and dwarf. They are just starting to make a move so if you want colour to continue when the spring show is over dahlias will do the job. Dahlias like a warm, full sun, free draining spot, the tubas will rot if planted in ground that stays wet. Vegetables: I touched on Tomatoes last week because they are in the shops now. For those with glass houses, prepare the soil well by digging in good organic compost. This will need to have been heated to the point of all fungus disease being eradicated. Because our summers here in North Otago can be cool a glass or tunnel house is the a must if wanting to be a serious tomato grower. However a glass house is a perfect incubator for fungus disease during nights and dull days when moisture is not taken up quickly by plants, never let tomato plant leaves go into the night wet. There are a lot of tomato varieties to choose from. Beefsteak, the big tomato best for sandwiches & cooking, Early girl, stars producing early and keeps on until late in the season, Potentate, medium/small firm with moderate acidity and low in sugar, Money maker, medium size and good flavor , Doctor Walter is the very low acid tomato Cherry tomato's, the plant you can grow in a pot inside or on a porch, great for Children's lunch boxes. Russian red a tomato to grow outside in a sunny spot protected from the wind. Heirloom tomatoes have become popular, they don't look great but they have the great taste of yesteryear. There are others that I have not mentioned, nearly all need staked and tied up in the glass house and ALL tomato's like sun all day, 6 to 8 hours and it helps the fruit if there are fewer leaves on the plants. Tomato leaves compete for nutrients, create unwanted shade and harbor disease. Keep planting vegetable seeds directly into the garden but not too thickly mix seeds with fine soil when sowing to avoid a lot of thinning. Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in North Otago October 11th 2016

Such beauty all around, there are new bantam hatchlings here to add to the Spring happenings, the poor little chickens are traumatized daily by Scruff the dog letting them know a thing or two outside the cage!! Still busy weeding to keep our garden right for the spring tours, the ground is just right for planting with moisture holding below the surface and the suns warmth on the ground. Remember to keep dead heading and feeding flowering pansies and polyanthus as long as there is a chill in the air they will keep flowering until it gets warmer, If you feel they have done all they are going to do dig out, cut old leaves back and plant in a cool shady place where they can be left until planting out next year. Coastal gardens will be quite away ahead of gardens inland where they will still be getting reasonable frosts from time to time. Late frosts on roses new growth can be a problem but don' t be too concerned if new growth has been frosted, rose leaves recover very fast and will have new buds to open in six weeks time. When the nights start warming up any dampness left by hosing on rose leaves will encourage mildew but keep food up to your roses while they are making buds, it's hungry roses that get diseased. For a quick result slow release fertiliser is good right now on any summer flowering plants and shrubs. I have been spot spraying convolvulus, couch and clover, fresh new weed growth is coming through the mulch now so its the right time to zap them on a non windy day. If roses get even a sniff of hormone spray it will deform the foliage and the rose bush will eventually die so don't risk spraying on a windy day. Camellias can be trimmed and shaped when finished flowering, take out branches from the middle, enough to let a bird fly through, this lets the light in to help form next years buds. I have noticed some of my front shrub plantings are too big now, hiding good planting areas behind, it takes only a few years for gardens to close in with out us really noticing and what a difference can be made by opening up and creating distance for a new and interesting planting. One area opened in our garden is deep enough to allow me to mass plant with blue bells and include a new maple tree and it was only two scrappy over grown shrubs removed which has made this difference. The sun flower seeds planted into trays a few weeks ago have now been planted out, because they are still small snails and slugs will be attracted to them so I have surrounded them with prickly berberis cuttings as a deterrent. Also up and almost ready to plant out are cosmos, larkspur, nasturtium and marigolds which will help fill deep boarders. If you are keen to attract monarch butterflies on the coast, plant swan plants now but protect from late frosts until established. Vegetables Keep an eye on potatoes that are through the ground, frost cloth may still be needed depending on where you live. Seeds are popping up in no time now so get them in ready for salad time. Pumpkin, squash, corn and courgette seeds can go in now but if you prefer to buy plants be sure to harden them off outside in a protected place for a while before planting them out. Glass houses will be ready for the many varieties of tomato plants on offer. If you have no glass or tunnel house tomatoes are happy growing in containers or planter bags on a sunny deck or patio, with staking and training as you would in a glass house. Smaller varieties are easiest to manage e.g. Red Robin, Russian red or Totem in containers and the cherry tomato tumbling Tom in large hanging baskets. Plant all in a tomato mix, water as needed and liquid feed fortnightly. Why not try basil plants growing among tomatoes to repel white fly, the general consensus is that basil - both plants and extracts made from the leaves can be an effective natural deterrent for white fly, mosquitoes, tomato horn-worm, aphids and house fly as well as being a wonderful culinary enhancement with tomatoes. Our graphic designer Daughter has produced a 2017 calendar related to our garden (Rockvale Garden) giving North Otago garden advice for each month of the year. On offer at Paper plus, could be a little something under the tree at Christmas for a Gardner. Cheers, Linda

Gardening in North Otago October 5th 2016

Continuous dull days and rain here on the coast for the second week of School holidays is uninspiring for gardeners but gentle on new spring growth.

Tulips: are taking center stage, dull days will allow them to bloom longer. Tulips are best left after flowering until all green has been absorbed by the bulb, if like me you have a main display of them and need to get other plants in, dig them up with green still attached to the bulb, bed them (bundled) into a spot in the garden where not noticed until die back is finished, then store in a box where rats can not get at them. Dead head all spring bulbs as they finish flowering, leaving them to make seed will weaken bulbs but leaves are left on to feed back into bulbs, with the exception of blue bells, they spread faster if allowed to drop seed.

Roses: are well in leaf now, sun is needed to get them budding and keep them disease free, to avoid mildew problems don't let rose foliage go into the night wet on dry mild nights. Well fed roses are less likely to become diseased, fortnightly folia feeding and slow release fertiliser around the drip line will do the trick. 

I need to spot spray convolvulous and couch grass because they are growing so fast, but if roses get even a sniff of hormone spray foliage will become deformed growing wispy yellow leaves and the rose bush will eventually die, so don't risk spraying on a windy day.  

Our Grandies are enjoying the "My little garden" Super market promotion seed pots, when I was little a seed growing into a plant was true magic to me and this is the reaction I am seeing from these little ones, let the magic continue to become food. After planting sun flower seeds into trays only a week ago they are now up and will be soon large enough to plant out, they do best planted straight into the ground but I have little bantams who scratch out, and the seed hence pre-growing them. Sun flowers are a quick result for small Children to plant then watch grow taller than themselves.

Compost: is heating up and working well with the addition of new grass clippings, mine are open heaps layered with soft grass and hedge clippings, manure, soil, and seedless weeds, The warm rain will have been good working right through the middle to create the heat needed and a sprinkle of lime to sweeten it all up.

Vegetables: Potatoes are loving the warm ground, mine are up and ready for mounding.....hopefully this weekend! Pumpkin, squash, corn and courgette seeds can go in now, if you prefer to buy plants be sure to harden them off outside in a protected place for a while before planting them out. If your vegetable garden has been disappointing in the past with plants not growing as well as you would like you could do a Ph test and if the PH of your soil needs to be raised you can add lime. I sprinkle lime on my compost heaps in spring and Autumn which then goes on the garden with the added bonus of lime loving worms. Dolomite lime is less likely to drastically change the PH, usually application rates are 2 to 3 pounds per 100 square feet of garden area, every second year to raise the pH from 5.5 to 6.5.  Some veg that like a more acid soil so don't go adding lime unless your soil needs sweetening.

DIY ph test can be done using vinegar: Collect 1 cup of soil from different parts of your garden and put 2 spoonfuls into separate containers, add 1/2 cup of vinegar to the soil if it fizzes you have alkaline soil, with a pH between 7 and 8. If it doesn’t fizz after doing the vinegar test, add distilled water to the other container until 2 teaspoons of soil are muddy. Add 1/2 cup baking soda, if it fizzes you have acidic soil, most likely with a pH between 5 and 6. If soil doesn’t react at all it is neutral with a pH of 7 you are very lucky!

Distilling water can be done by 3/4 fill a large jam pot, set on med/ high to create a slow boil, place a glass bowl (receiver flask) into your pot, making sure it floats well enough to allow for some water to be poured into it without sinking. Place a con-caved lid on the pot upside down. Fill the top of the lid with ice cubes, condensation will enable the bowl to fill with distilled water.

Acid Soil Crops: The following crops prefer a pH of 4. to 5.5 Blackberry,Blueberry,Cranberry,Parsley,Potato,Raspberry.

Somewhat Acid Soil Crops: These can tolerate a pH of 5.5 to 6.5 Apple,Basil,Carrot,Cauliflower,Chervil,Corn,Cucumber,Dill,Garlic,Parsley,Pepper,Pumpkin Radish, Rhubarb, Tomato,Turnip. 

Moderately Alkaline Soil Plants: The following crops will tolerate a pH of 6.0 to 7.0 or greater: Artichoke, Asparagus Bean, pole, Bean, lima, Beet, Broccoli, Brussels sprouts, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Celery, Chinese cabbage, Celeriac Celery Chinese cabbage, Chive, Cress, Endive/escarole, Fennel, Gourd, Horseradish, Jerusalem Artichoke, Kale, Leek, Lettuce, Marjoram, Mustard, Okra, Onion, Oregano, Pak choi, Parsnip, Pea, Radish, Rhubarb, Sage, Spinach, Squash, summer, Sunflower, Tarragon, Tomatillo.

Very Acid to Alkaline Soil Tolerant Plants: The following crops have the greatest tolerance for a wide range of soil acidity or alkalinity, from about 5.0 to 7.0: Alpine strawberry, Carrot, Cauliflower, Corn, Cucumber, Dill, Garlic, Parsley, Parsnip, Pepper,Tomato.Turnip. Phew! a pretty long winded list but can be kept for future reference.

Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in North Otago September 27th 2016

It is all on now with weeds after the few days of drizzle last week, and why, oh why in the School holidays??. however from an early Spring point of view it couldn't be better. 

While weeds are small my most used tool is a hoe to keep weeds from taking hold, especially chick weed and biddy-bid which is worked on here to eradicate every Spring so have no idea why as many seed from both still germinate everywhere! 

A hoe will not work with couch grass and convolvulus this needs to be dug out while ground is soft and runners can be taken right back under the ground to where they begin, it is very satisfying to know they will not grow back. I spot spray in badly affected areas if no other plants close by can be affected ( Never where food is grown) 

Keeping the light off bare soil with mulch will stop annual weed seeds germinating, compost, un-sprayed grass clippings, (only thick enough to block light) pea straw, that great mulch, which looks like soil fromPukeuri meat works,(around established plants) and the well cooked mulch from the Waitaki resource recovery park will all do the trick in blocking light. Mulching is also the answer to holding moisture in the ground. 

Garden edging with perennials is another way of covering the soil and a way to stop birds scratching soil out over paths, If you are looking for a pretty mat forming garden edge and have a clump of cat mint beginning to make new growth, dig the clump up and break into many new pieces with roots and pot them up. When roots fill pots they are ready to be planted as a front edge.

If you have not feed plants, roses or shrubs do it now, slow release granules, powdered plant food (watered in), if you have home compost ready add to some blood and bone and sulphate of pot ash this will give food and a flowering and fruiting component to plants and trees. I often mention using old stable manure around roses to keep them going over their long flowering period, don't dig the manure in as this can cause root damage, watering will take it to the roots as required. Extend food just beyond the drip line where the most active feeding roots are.

Having  saved a lot of sun flower seed from last years flowering, they were planted two weeks ago and are now up and doing well, I just love seeing those big happy flower faces on mass following the sun. They will be planted out in groups to stand high behind existing shrubs and any sunny bare areas that need brightening up.

I have been noticing a few cherry blossom trees with root stock branches being left to grow. By this I mean any branches that develop below the graft (where the branches begin at the top of the trunk); these should be cut off while still small. If allowed to develop into branches they will take over the whole tree. All flowering cherry trees are grafted onto a strong root stock of a very ordinary white blossom tree so if you have a tree with lovely pink or white blossom and you notice some blossom looks different then most likely it will be a branch growing from below the graft, cut it right out

Lawns 

The buzz of lawn mowers is in the air again, cutting too low will let light in for weeds to grow let them thicken up before those drying winds arrive. Grass seed I planted a couple of weeks back has struck, letting me know the ground is warm enough for resowing more bare patches.

Vegetable garden

Lots to do in the veg garden right now, I have been madly sowing seeds over the last few weeks and now there is time consuming pricking out to be done, just as well the day's are longer now!

All the salad veg can go in along with tomatoes, potatoes, peas, I think the ground is even be warm enough for runner and dwarf beans. My board beans came through the winter well and have started to bean, It is wonderful have an abundance of choice again and to be picking our own fresh produce. 

Fruit: It's all up to the bee's now.

Cheers, Linda

Gardening in North Otago September 20th 2016

Well into Spring now with buds bursting into beauty daily, we had the first wedding in our Garden last Saturday, no going back now!!
Because rain is limited watering is needed to help spring gardens along, moisture is not far down but top soil holding new plantings will dry daily. Plant cells that are plump with water will be stronger against cold night damage in early Spring so early watering is best allowing time for plants to absorb moisture. However, slight drying out before watering promotes root growth of plants so water is not needed everyday.

Spring is the time to choose the type of blossom tree you want, take a photo along to a garden center to be identified. Blossom is only on the tree for a short time so it should not be the only reason for choice. Height and spread should be thought about as some prunus grow very large and spread wide and low. Fortunately today we have choice, thanks to the grafting done by growers we can purchase trees on a short, or a taller graft to suit a situation. A 1.8 mtr trunk before branching will allow clearance along a drive or walk way right from planting. Large spreading trees have large spreading roots! keep this in mind when planting near concrete and the house. Also the leaf and blossom drop should be taken into consideration, thick blossom on paved walking areas is a slippery problem, it sticks to feet and is tracked inside. Leaf drop near pathways and roof guttering is a pain as well, but a spreading tree over grass is lovely and everything dropped can be taken up with the lawn mower. Ask the right people about the right trees because there is a tree for every spot, to create the over grown look without the problems.

I have been busy with the hoe moving the small weeds around before they get a hold, you will only have to blink from now on and they will be up around the ankles! pull them now before they make seed.  Plant pretty annuals in exposed soil now to beat the weeds,
Seeds: sow directly into the ground or into trays, they will be up in no time to prick out and plant on into punnets to form strong roots. Be sure to leave punnets of newly bought bedding plants outside for a few nights in a sheltered place to harden off before planting out. I use my own mix with a layer of seed raising mix on top which makes the seed raising mix go a lot further.

Lavenders are starting to make new growth, they like a dressing of lime and some liquid or slow release fertiliser to help them along. If they look a bit scruffy you can trim them now and they will soon grow back and bud up. If a lavender is looking really woody with new growth yellowing dig it out and put in another one, they do not go on for ever.

We are lucky enough to have a mature bourgainville growing, it was effected badly last year and this winter with frost even though it has been covered with frost cloth. New growth is happening now below the damage so I trimmed the dead wood off and will flood it at the beginning of next month to simulate the rainy season of it's origins. Then leave it alone from then on. If feed and water through summer they will produce more leaf than flowers, Bourgainvillea needs to be stressed to flower their best.

Put in stakes for delphiniums, peony roses, asters and tall phlox now before they shoot up anymore.

Vegetable garden:
Keep planting your veg before the end of September, they should then be ready for Christmas. Corn and the pumpkin varieties need a long growing season, I planted both into punnets this week, protection will be needed when germinated until days are warmer.
Fruit: If you have not pruned your currant bushes yet do it asap because they are coming into leaf.
blackcurrants. Fruit forms on young wood, remove older wood, leaving the young shoots,remove weak, wispy shoots, retaining a basic structure of 6 to 10 healthy shoots.
Red and white currants bear their fruit on old wood. prune bushes by removing diseased or very old branches, then prune new growth back to two buds in early summer to keep plants compact.
Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in North Otago 15th September 2016

A lovely weekend just past as I write this and with the warmth it's all happening in gardens, a warm wind was experienced so the hoses are out once again to keep moisture up to all the new annual plantings going in. 
Hydrangeas are budding to leaf, the perfect time to feed and give a good soak, a dressing of lime for pink and alum sulphate for blue, coffee grinds and pine needles will also acidify soil.

Roses are top priority right now,Things to watch out for are die back after frost damage, not all branches make the grade, if they have been affected cut them right back to new growth, also watch for growth below the graft, it comes up from the root stock, is usually a different colour and leaf to the grafted branches, cut right out. All roses are grafted onto a strong root stock. 

If you were given a cyclamen in flower back in May it is time to plant it outside in a cool shady spot to finish the growing year. Pot up again just before Winter for indoor flowering.

Perennials are pushing up through the pea straw now, hosta's are making a move but there is still time to put the spade through clumps big enough to divide, slice cleanly through and transplant where needed.

Peony roses are pushing up fast, carefully clear around them to let sun in.

Lawns: are looking for food, have a bag ready for the next rain. Sulphate of iron is great for getting rid of moss in lawns, buy from a garden centre, quantities for a watering can will be on the bag, once watered on effected areas leave until moss turns black then rake out.

Potato info (Tui)

Rocket* Round White White Waxy Fastest producing of early varieties and provides a good yield. Good boiling potato with waxy texture.Very early variety, approx 90 days.
Swift* Oval Smooth & White Creamy yellow Waxy Fast growing with exceptional taste. Great for growing in containers.Will not discolour or disintegrate on steaming.Very early variety, approx 90 days
Cliff Kidney* Kidney Slight pink tinge White Firm, waxy Performs best in soils that contain peat. An excellent, firm boiling potato for early cropping. Best for boiling. Early variety, approx 100 days
Jersey Benne* Oval White White Waxy A medium cropper that can be grown in most soils. Great for growing in containers. One of the most popular varieties for mashing or boiling. Early variety, approx 100 days
Moemoe Maori Potato Round-Oval Purple with deep eyes Creamy white
Waxy Plant from September – November. Will grow in all soil conditions. Reasonable
drought and wind tolerance. Best eaten shortly after harvest. Good for boiling and steaming. Good tasting. Early-main variety, approx 100 days
Maris Anchorr* Oval White White Waxy Yields well in most soil types but likes shelter. Keeps well with excellent cooking qualities. General cooking. Early-main variety, approx 110days
Agria* Long oval Cream Yellow All Purpose High yielder. Stores well. Very versatile cooking qualities. Great for French fries. Best for boiling. Main variety, approx 130 days
Heather Long oval Smooth & Purple White All Purpose Reliable, steady cropper. Good for all general cooking, boils, mashes and roast (no discolouration or disintegration). Main variety, approx 130 days
Ilam Hardy* Oval to round White White Waxy. All Purpose When mature. Very adaptable and will give a good yield over a wide variety of conditions. Light blight resistance. Excellent for boiling for frying. Good all round cooker. Early-main variety, approx 130 days.

Fruit:

Apricot is in blossom looking for bee's and raspberries / gooseberries are showing leaf, still time to thin out a gooseberry bush for easier picking.

Cheers, Linda.