As the ripening season approaches, conditions across North Otago remain dry, despite having received summer rain, which soon evaporated with the wind. Making watering the top priority in the garden. Consistent deep watering is essential to prevent plants, shrubs, and trees from becoming dehydrated. Particular care should be given to Acer (Japanese maples), which can easily be lost if allowed to dry out during autumn. With nights cooling and days shortening, the major leaf drop is not far away. However, trees are holding their leaves green longer this year, likely due to the summer rain showers. As light levels begin to reduce, low branches on large trees may need lifting to allow more light onto lawns and underplantings.
Seed Sowing and Collecting: My seed collecting is well underway. Summer annual seeds should be dried and stored safely until spring sowing, while many hardy spring-flowering plants can be sown now to establish before winter. Suitable varieties include pansy, viola, polyantha, delphinium, antirrhinum (snapdragon), wallflower, cyclamen, stock, sweet pea, primrose, and calendula. Keep an eye out for useful self-sown seedlings such as foxglove, lupin, cineraria, hollyhock, and primula malacoides — these can be transplanted now so they settle in before colder weather arrives.
Cuttings: From now until late autumn is an ideal time to take semi-hardwood cuttings from shrubs and woody plants. Choose stems that are neither too hard nor too soft, as these contain the best energy for root development.
Cuttings can be soaked overnight in water containing willow leaves and branches, a natural rooting stimulant similar to hormone powder. Plant cuttings into damp, sharp river sand or crusher dust mixed with a little compost to encourage rooting. Cuttings taken now must be protected through winter. A glasshouse or tunnel house is ideal, but a simple cold frame works well — a raised frame covered with heavy plastic, with frost cloth added during very cold periods.
Rose cuttings also perform well at this time. Take a slanted cutting about 15 cm long from a flowering stem, ensuring at least three growth nodes, with two buried when planted. Place cuttings into water immediately after cutting, then plant closely together in free-draining river sand. Although most modern roses are grafted, many gardeners believe cutting-grown roses develop stronger root systems. Rose deadheading will soon finish for the season; allow the final blooms to set seed, so plants stop producing soft growth, and wood can harden before winter pruning.
Planting and Garden Preparation: March is one of the best planting months for establishing a new garden. Garden centres are well stocked, and warm soil allows roots to grow, harden, and settle before winter.
Remove spent summer annuals and prepare beds for winter and spring flowering plants such as primulas, wallflowers, polyanthas, pansies, and violas. Fork compost into the soil and water deeply before replanting.
Peonies are available now and are well worth planting. Ensure roots have at least three eyes (buds), plant only 5–7 cm deep, and avoid disturbing new shoots. Peonies prefer sunny, well-drained, slightly acidic soil and, once established, can remain undisturbed for decades.
Bulbs: Spring bulbs are already beginning to move beneath the soil, so take care when cultivating around them — even trilliums are showing new growth. Lift gladioli bulbs once flowering is finished and store them in a dry place to prevent pest damage.
Climbers such as wisteria, jasmine, and honeysuckle can be lightly trimmed, along with hedges and shrubs, if required.
Continue deadheading dahlias, petunias, and geraniums to keep colour going until the first frost.
Lawns: Chemical-free lawn clippings make excellent mulch. Spread them thinly over moist garden beds to help retain soil moisture — applied too thickly, they can form a barrier that prevents water penetration.
Autumn is also an excellent time to sow new lawns. Cooler nights allow moisture retention, while warm soil encourages rapid germination.
Vegetable gardens remain productive with adequate watering. Pumpkins are ripening, corn is ready, and beans remain plentiful. White butterflies are active, laying eggs on brassica crops. Newly planted seedlings can be protected using shade cloth or grape netting stretched tightly over frames to prevent access while still allowing light and airflow. Plant leafy crops now, including lettuce, spinach, celery, broccoli, cabbage, and cauliflower. Green manure crops can also be sown to restore humus to tired soils.
Fruit: Stone fruit, pip fruit, and grapes are being harvested, with sugars hopefully well developed after a hot and cold season. Grapes will not ripen further once picked, so always taste before harvesting.
After fruiting, give trees autumn attention, deep water thoroughly — soak soil 5–7 cm deep rather than surface watering. Keep grass and debris clear from around trunks. Avoid fertiliser in autumn so trees can harden for winter. Leave major pruning until spring.
Cheers, Linda
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