Ohhh yes the forecasters were right, that was a deluge! and seemed to go on and on. But from the garden and land point of view a good rain is just what a known drought area like North Otago needs to set us up for spring. Even though It is still very wet and muddy under foot plants and new lambs are pushing on and making it feel more like spring everyday.
I did duck in and out between the heavy showers while pruning hydrangeas but was forced to do inside stuff. The pea straw waiting to be spread on gardens is nicely wet now which means it will settle down onto the now wet gardens and help retain that moisture.
The gardens I don't mulch with pea straw get a covering of the lovely black compost we get each year from the Pukuiri freezing works. This allows spring bulbs to take center stage for the next couple of months. I do have pea straw in other areas where bulbs are growing and now that I can see where where they are popping up I push the straw away from them to let in light.
It is at this time of the year I notice yellowing of some plants, the ground gets depleted of nitrogen during winter especially when plants are shallow rooted like camellias, azaleas and rhododendron, give them a feed with an acid fertiliser especially formulated for them.( If powder water in)
Potted plants that make a lot of roots and have out grow their containers will soon show poor growth but these plants can be revived by either re-potting them into a larger pot or reducing the root mass by half then re-potting back into the same pot. I remove excess roots by removing the root bound plant from the pot, lay it on the ground then I use a sharp spade to chop the root ball in half. Once potted up again I apply applications of complete plant food and compost to either soil or a heavy tree & shrub mix. With all the slow release fertilisers on offer now it's makes it easy to choose the right one for all plants.
Remove saucers from all outside pots while plants are saturated,they need to drain now.
Ornamental grass's can be trimmed back now if you have not already done so, cut back the old seeded ends and clean out the dead thatch around the base, its amazing how much you will need to cart away after this hair cut but they will look wonderful and will grow back to their soft wafting shape in no time. Use what you have cut off as mulch around the garden, a cover for the compost or in the chook house.
Lawns
After all the rain moss will thrive in lawns, pathways and garden structures. There are a lot of products out there to deal with moss but killing the moss in lawns is simply a short term measure, they do not address the basic problem of moss in lawns.
If you really want to eradicate moss from your lawn, then you have to find the problem causing it. The reasons are varied, but not too difficult to isolate. Moss is a sign that something is wrong with your lawn.
Things that would be causing moss in your lawn could be:
Water logging - in winter or summer.
Poor feeding regime - usually shown by light green grass.
Soil too acid - carry out a test, lime may be needed.
Shaded Lawns - overhanging trees or large shrubs.
Mowing lawns too close is a very common cause, for it weakens the grass allowing moss to take hold.
Drought - if severe enough to harm or kill the grass. Not to be confused with a bit of summer-browning
Sandy - free-draining soils. This can weaken the grass and allow moss to take over. Some mosses are quite happy in these conditions. Add humus (compost or sieved soil) to add more body and rake in, this will encourage worms as well.
Compaction - continued use by children and pets with no remedial attention by way of aeration in the Autumn.
Generally, lawns that are well maintained - which includes being well fed, cut properly, aerated and de-thatched - problems which result in moss will not occur in the first place. Moss rarely competes with strong growing grass in lawns. Get the grass growing properly starting with the first spring feeding when temperatures rise soon. Slow release grass fertliser is ideal when the ground is wet and rain is about to happen.
Treating small areas of lawn moss can be carried out with sulphate of iron watered on at the strength displayed on the pack per sq meter. After a couple of weeks you can rake out the dead moss and re-seed.
Vegetables
Pick winter crops while still at their best - Fold cauliflower leaves over and tie to protect from frost and keep florets tight.
Asparagus is a vegetable that repays planting over many years. To prepare beds cultivate deeply and add generous amounts of compost. Existing asparagus beds should be cultivated carefully to avoid damaging the crowns that lie just below the surface, add a new layer of mulch.
Here on the coast get spring sowings off to an early start now, use a row of cloches or a stretch of clear polythene to warm and dry out the soil.
Further inland the soil will take a bit of thawing out before any planting Can be done but as I mentioned last week prepare the garden by digging in compost / humus.
Fruit
My peach tree is just at bud burst right now so I am waiting for the rain to stop so I can spray with a copper spray for leaf curl before it bursts into blossom. Once in blossom it is too late to spray.
If you have not already pruned your peach or nectarine tree I will run through how to go about it although it is late enough with the sap up and trees coming into blossom.
1. For the glass shape pick four main scaffold branches and simplify, cut larger branches needing removed close to the trunk, leave a collar, it will encourage tree borer.
2. Remove small weak upright branches on trunk or main branches.
3. Leave 50 to 75% pencil thick shooting wood per tree.
Both peach and nectarine fruit on wood developed last summer. Inspect the buds on newer wood, single buds are leaf buds, double buds are immature fruit buds and triple buds are mature fruit buds. Cut to an outward facing double bud, leave triples.
Citrus bushes are susceptible to water logging so remove saucers from under potted lemon bushes while it is so wet and always ensure that your bushes in the ground have good drainage and are not sitting in a puddle of water.
Gardening by the moon
NEW MOON
Saturday, 18 August 2012
Garden:
Time to transplant early veggies under cloches, e.g. courgettes and beans
Do loads of weeding and compost making with all over wintered compost crops lupins vetch etc
Foliar feed 3 days before full moon
You should be seriously taking out all compost crops and preparing beds for major planting next month
For the cloche, sow seed into trays of early pumpkins and courgettes, Squash, early tomatoes, cucumbers, dwarf beans, marigold Sweet Hyssop, nasturtium, sweet pea, lettuce, coriander, parsley, rocket, peas.
Sow peppers in an even warmer place. These seeds really need 20 degrees day and even nights to germinate well. I recommend you build a small plastic cloche, over a seed tray with these seeds in it, inside the green house.
Orchard:
Slug and snail control essential around newly grafted trees
Mulch all fruit trees – you can use the scythed grass from the orchard to do this at this time of the year
Cheers, Linda
Tuesday, August 14, 2012
Tuesday, August 7, 2012
Gardening in North Otago 7th August 2012
More of those dull damp days this week but still so much is beginning to awake in the garden, I feel spring in the air with the fragrance from winter sweet, witch hazel, Daphne and boronia wafting to the music of Chopin around our garden. The birds are beginning to nest and I see the first jonquils opening. I do love the beginning of a new growing season as you can surely to tell!
After months of winter work going on in this garden it is now time to create and dress the garden by planting out and feeding . I have been liquid feeding with worm juice from my worm farm, which I add at black tea strength to a full watering can then apply generously to all new leaf and budding plants like pollyantha's, forget-me-nots, dianthus, sweet peas, pansy, viola and winter roses. Helping them along with feeding now will get their roots going and keep them green and strong through any cold snaps yet to come.
Slow release fertiliser is a great idea now as well, sprinkle around established ornamental and newly planted trees and shrubs to be there ready when the plants need food as the awake.
This week I am still pruning the hydrangeas and noticed nice fat buds swelling on the stems, prune only those stems that have flowered, cut at the second bud from the bottom, leave all other stems because these are the flowers for this year. Spread old stable manure around the drip line and a dressing of lime for pink flowers and aluminum sulphate for blue, White never changes, but are best planted in light shade – the flowers will tinge pink in the full sun. It is much easier to control the colour of hydrangea's in a pot, if the PH of your soil is high blue hydrangeas will always revert to pink no matter how often you add aluminum to the soil. If your PH is too high and you plan to grow hydrangeas in large pots to achieve a certain shade,it would be best to use soil from a garden in a different area mixed with tree and shrub mix. Used coffee grinds, grass clippings or pine needles spread around the drip line can help lower the PH.
I have been taking cuttings from the hardened off geranium steams, fresh grown geraniums give amazing colour to a warm sunny garden for all of the growing season and even into the winter, they are so easy to grow from cuttings. Take short cuttings with semi hard wood, (not a new green steam) and let them dry out a little before planting, which means you don't have to deal with them straight away. plant them into a soil and river sand mix and firm down, Potting mix is too light to get a tight seal around the cutting. I am forever taking cuttings from geraniums I like when I come across them in friends gardens, and giving cuttings from mine.
Trim dentata lavender now, that's the tall growing one with the lavender bumblebee flower, they are budding up now ready to burst into flower. Lavenders like sweetening up with a dressing of lime. Leave trimming other lavenders a little longer
Cut back bush lavatera now also, they get very woody if left.
Dahlias and gladioli, can be planted from now until September.
I will mention again to apply a dressing of Rose Food to establish Rose's (Water in if powder), slow release will add food each time you water or when it rains.
Trees and Roses are still available in most Garden Centres. If you think your garden is too small for trees, I have seen dwarf Peach and Nectarine Trees on offer, what better if you need a little tree to add height in an era of your garden why not have one that blossoms beautifully and then gives you fruit.They are perfect for the smaller garden as they only grow to a width and height of 1.5 metres. They can also be grown in a tub and require very little pruning.
There are masses of bedding plants on offer now and the ground temperature warming up now to get them growing.
Vegetables
The vegetable garden has been enjoying the rain, I am still digging carrots and using silver beet, it is so good not to have to worry about the bugs during these colder months when planting out leaf veg.
Cold and frosty areas inland can make a start now by adding some compost and a little lime in readiness for when you plant out later this month.
Lets hope these dull overcast days are over by the time the fruit trees blossom so the bee's will come out and set to work pollinating .
It’s the right time to spray copper fungicide to prevent leaf curl in peach trees if they are just at bud burst. If they are already in flower it is too late, don't spray.
Gardening by the moon.
LAST QUARTER
Thursday, 9 August 2012
Garden:
Prepare seed raising mix 1/3 sieved compost, 1/3 sieved garden soil, 1/3 sand - possibly 10% vermicast if available. it is critical to use seedraising mix that does not contain fungicides to get maximum vigor and strength from your plants.
Pot up any cuttings that you took in May and are now shooting in a sand box
Weed garden beds, make compost, double-dig or prepare beds fo planting as they become dry enough
Orchard:
Very last tree planting for deciduous fruit tree
Good time to plant citrus
Very last pruning
Mulching trees for the summer (if you didn't feed the orchard earlier then feed now underneath the much)
Mulch all newly planted trees before the grass begins to grow
Cheers, Linda.
http://nzstyleforever.blogspot.com/
After months of winter work going on in this garden it is now time to create and dress the garden by planting out and feeding . I have been liquid feeding with worm juice from my worm farm, which I add at black tea strength to a full watering can then apply generously to all new leaf and budding plants like pollyantha's, forget-me-nots, dianthus, sweet peas, pansy, viola and winter roses. Helping them along with feeding now will get their roots going and keep them green and strong through any cold snaps yet to come.
Slow release fertiliser is a great idea now as well, sprinkle around established ornamental and newly planted trees and shrubs to be there ready when the plants need food as the awake.
This week I am still pruning the hydrangeas and noticed nice fat buds swelling on the stems, prune only those stems that have flowered, cut at the second bud from the bottom, leave all other stems because these are the flowers for this year. Spread old stable manure around the drip line and a dressing of lime for pink flowers and aluminum sulphate for blue, White never changes, but are best planted in light shade – the flowers will tinge pink in the full sun. It is much easier to control the colour of hydrangea's in a pot, if the PH of your soil is high blue hydrangeas will always revert to pink no matter how often you add aluminum to the soil. If your PH is too high and you plan to grow hydrangeas in large pots to achieve a certain shade,it would be best to use soil from a garden in a different area mixed with tree and shrub mix. Used coffee grinds, grass clippings or pine needles spread around the drip line can help lower the PH.
I have been taking cuttings from the hardened off geranium steams, fresh grown geraniums give amazing colour to a warm sunny garden for all of the growing season and even into the winter, they are so easy to grow from cuttings. Take short cuttings with semi hard wood, (not a new green steam) and let them dry out a little before planting, which means you don't have to deal with them straight away. plant them into a soil and river sand mix and firm down, Potting mix is too light to get a tight seal around the cutting. I am forever taking cuttings from geraniums I like when I come across them in friends gardens, and giving cuttings from mine.
Trim dentata lavender now, that's the tall growing one with the lavender bumblebee flower, they are budding up now ready to burst into flower. Lavenders like sweetening up with a dressing of lime. Leave trimming other lavenders a little longer
Cut back bush lavatera now also, they get very woody if left.
Dahlias and gladioli, can be planted from now until September.
I will mention again to apply a dressing of Rose Food to establish Rose's (Water in if powder), slow release will add food each time you water or when it rains.
Trees and Roses are still available in most Garden Centres. If you think your garden is too small for trees, I have seen dwarf Peach and Nectarine Trees on offer, what better if you need a little tree to add height in an era of your garden why not have one that blossoms beautifully and then gives you fruit.They are perfect for the smaller garden as they only grow to a width and height of 1.5 metres. They can also be grown in a tub and require very little pruning.
There are masses of bedding plants on offer now and the ground temperature warming up now to get them growing.
Vegetables
The vegetable garden has been enjoying the rain, I am still digging carrots and using silver beet, it is so good not to have to worry about the bugs during these colder months when planting out leaf veg.
Cold and frosty areas inland can make a start now by adding some compost and a little lime in readiness for when you plant out later this month.
Lets hope these dull overcast days are over by the time the fruit trees blossom so the bee's will come out and set to work pollinating .
It’s the right time to spray copper fungicide to prevent leaf curl in peach trees if they are just at bud burst. If they are already in flower it is too late, don't spray.
Gardening by the moon.
LAST QUARTER
Thursday, 9 August 2012
Garden:
Prepare seed raising mix 1/3 sieved compost, 1/3 sieved garden soil, 1/3 sand - possibly 10% vermicast if available. it is critical to use seedraising mix that does not contain fungicides to get maximum vigor and strength from your plants.
Pot up any cuttings that you took in May and are now shooting in a sand box
Weed garden beds, make compost, double-dig or prepare beds fo planting as they become dry enough
Orchard:
Very last tree planting for deciduous fruit tree
Good time to plant citrus
Very last pruning
Mulching trees for the summer (if you didn't feed the orchard earlier then feed now underneath the much)
Mulch all newly planted trees before the grass begins to grow
Cheers, Linda.
http://nzstyleforever.blogspot.com/
Friday, August 3, 2012
Gardening in North Otago August 3rd 12012
The start of another new month!! and what a great rain North Otago received at the beginning of last week, and so good to have had warning it was to happen. I was able to lime the lawns and plants like lilac, clematis, carnations, dianthus,and all the herbs.
I was lucky enough to be offered access to a mountain of donkey manure last weekend and with the help of my Man and owner of the donkey's on the end of a shovel we filled a trailer, I got it onto the compost heaps just before the down pour, Ya!
Gardens that missed a good conditioning in autumn would still benefit from a layer of Compost spread on top. It can be dug in this month once the temperatures begin to rise. Before then the worms will work their way up towards this new layer of organic matter bringing the compost down into the soil for you!
Roses: I noticed while pruning that some roses were beginning to bud up so I took advantage of the rain and applied rose fertiliser, all powdered fertilisers need to be watered in. Not so important for slow release fertilisers they are designed to feed each time water is applied.
My roses will also get a dose of liquid donkey manure when I get around to it.
The wisteria is next to be pruned, All the long slim leaders growing out in all directions will be removed.
Once your wisteria has reached the length you require with a chosen leader, or maybe two going in opposite directions all other leaders can be removed. If allowed to grow, a wispy new leader will eventually become as thick as a tree branch, and too many of theses become a tangled mess and very heavy if being trained along a balcony.Don't prune any other part off a wisteria at this time of the year because you will remove the flower buds forming right now. Reduce the size of large established wisterias once flowering has finished.
Clumps of hellebore's are looking fantastic in our garden right now and with the sun we have had . Once pollinated the center of the flower changes to form seed pods, when this has taken place the stems become firmer and will last in water when picked. Hellebore's seed down very readily growing masses of baby plants beneath the mother plants. These seedlings can be transplanted or potted up in the second year when they have developed two strong leaves, but will not flower until around the forth year.
I notice Marguerite daisies and my bouganvillea have been badly damaged by frost, I will leave the damaged growth on top to protect the growth
below and cut back to hard wood when frosts have finished. I hung frost cloth in front of the bouganvilla to protect what is left which got saturated during the rain, I guess the next drying wind will sort that and I hope not to need it much longer.
Only this month to go and we will can roll head first into spring leaving these cold months behind us.
Plants that really appreciate the cold are erica's and calluna's they come into their own during winter displaying stunning shades of pink and white. Some ground cover erica can spread up to a meter and stay looking fresh for a good number of years. As a front planting in a boarder garden they form a carpet to stop that bird scratching problem, suppress weeds and are so pretty when other plants are resting. They like a dry, sunny situation, require no feeding just a hair cut when finished flowering. I noticed a good choice of flowering ericas on offer in Garden centers this week.
Vegetables & Fruit
On the warmer North Otago mid-winter days, especially after the rain seem perfect for planting at a time when we usually don't. There are edibles that can go into the ground when it is cold and damp. But remember none of these will survive in boggy soils so good drainage is essential with early plantings.
Garlic and Shallots are available to plant - dig compost through your soil or fill a container and plant separated cloves of garlic approximately twice the depth of the clove. Take care not to damage cloves when separating out the bulb. You could get up to 20 cloves per bulb!
Strawberries are easy to plant in all kinds of containers or straight into sunny / raised garden beds along with slow release fertiliser. I have enlarged my strawberry bed to twice the size, leaving last years plants to fruit again in one half and have planted the other half out in new runners.Strawberries also seem to do very well in a hanging strawberry bag with an abundance of slow release food, but it would pay to wrap it with bird netting once the fruit starts turning red.
I got really stuck into my gooseberry bushes this week, cleaned the middle out of cross over branches and took off the branches skirting the ground which lifted the bushes up enough for picking underneath, many of these lower branches had grown roots into the ground so I have potted these sections up, they will develop into good size bushes in a couple of growing seasons.
Gardening by the Moon in August
NEW MOON
Saturday, 18 August 2012
Garden:
Time to transplant early veggies under cloches, e.g. courgettes and beans
Do loads of weeding and compost making with all over wintered compost crops lupins vetch etc and prepare beds for major planting next month
Foliar feed 3 days before full moon
Sow seed into trays , dwarf beans, marigold Sweet Hyssop, nasturtium, sweet pea, lettuce, coriander, parsley, rocket, peas . Place in a warm green house ready to prick out when first leaves appear
Orchard:
Slug and snail control essential around newly grafted trees
Mulch all fruit trees – you can use the scythed grass from the orchard to do this at this time of the year
Cheers, Linda
I was lucky enough to be offered access to a mountain of donkey manure last weekend and with the help of my Man and owner of the donkey's on the end of a shovel we filled a trailer, I got it onto the compost heaps just before the down pour, Ya!
Gardens that missed a good conditioning in autumn would still benefit from a layer of Compost spread on top. It can be dug in this month once the temperatures begin to rise. Before then the worms will work their way up towards this new layer of organic matter bringing the compost down into the soil for you!
Roses: I noticed while pruning that some roses were beginning to bud up so I took advantage of the rain and applied rose fertiliser, all powdered fertilisers need to be watered in. Not so important for slow release fertilisers they are designed to feed each time water is applied.
My roses will also get a dose of liquid donkey manure when I get around to it.
The wisteria is next to be pruned, All the long slim leaders growing out in all directions will be removed.
Once your wisteria has reached the length you require with a chosen leader, or maybe two going in opposite directions all other leaders can be removed. If allowed to grow, a wispy new leader will eventually become as thick as a tree branch, and too many of theses become a tangled mess and very heavy if being trained along a balcony.Don't prune any other part off a wisteria at this time of the year because you will remove the flower buds forming right now. Reduce the size of large established wisterias once flowering has finished.
Clumps of hellebore's are looking fantastic in our garden right now and with the sun we have had . Once pollinated the center of the flower changes to form seed pods, when this has taken place the stems become firmer and will last in water when picked. Hellebore's seed down very readily growing masses of baby plants beneath the mother plants. These seedlings can be transplanted or potted up in the second year when they have developed two strong leaves, but will not flower until around the forth year.
I notice Marguerite daisies and my bouganvillea have been badly damaged by frost, I will leave the damaged growth on top to protect the growth
below and cut back to hard wood when frosts have finished. I hung frost cloth in front of the bouganvilla to protect what is left which got saturated during the rain, I guess the next drying wind will sort that and I hope not to need it much longer.
Only this month to go and we will can roll head first into spring leaving these cold months behind us.
Plants that really appreciate the cold are erica's and calluna's they come into their own during winter displaying stunning shades of pink and white. Some ground cover erica can spread up to a meter and stay looking fresh for a good number of years. As a front planting in a boarder garden they form a carpet to stop that bird scratching problem, suppress weeds and are so pretty when other plants are resting. They like a dry, sunny situation, require no feeding just a hair cut when finished flowering. I noticed a good choice of flowering ericas on offer in Garden centers this week.
Vegetables & Fruit
On the warmer North Otago mid-winter days, especially after the rain seem perfect for planting at a time when we usually don't. There are edibles that can go into the ground when it is cold and damp. But remember none of these will survive in boggy soils so good drainage is essential with early plantings.
Garlic and Shallots are available to plant - dig compost through your soil or fill a container and plant separated cloves of garlic approximately twice the depth of the clove. Take care not to damage cloves when separating out the bulb. You could get up to 20 cloves per bulb!
Strawberries are easy to plant in all kinds of containers or straight into sunny / raised garden beds along with slow release fertiliser. I have enlarged my strawberry bed to twice the size, leaving last years plants to fruit again in one half and have planted the other half out in new runners.Strawberries also seem to do very well in a hanging strawberry bag with an abundance of slow release food, but it would pay to wrap it with bird netting once the fruit starts turning red.
I got really stuck into my gooseberry bushes this week, cleaned the middle out of cross over branches and took off the branches skirting the ground which lifted the bushes up enough for picking underneath, many of these lower branches had grown roots into the ground so I have potted these sections up, they will develop into good size bushes in a couple of growing seasons.
Gardening by the Moon in August
NEW MOON
Saturday, 18 August 2012
Garden:
Time to transplant early veggies under cloches, e.g. courgettes and beans
Do loads of weeding and compost making with all over wintered compost crops lupins vetch etc and prepare beds for major planting next month
Foliar feed 3 days before full moon
Sow seed into trays , dwarf beans, marigold Sweet Hyssop, nasturtium, sweet pea, lettuce, coriander, parsley, rocket, peas . Place in a warm green house ready to prick out when first leaves appear
Orchard:
Slug and snail control essential around newly grafted trees
Mulch all fruit trees – you can use the scythed grass from the orchard to do this at this time of the year
Cheers, Linda
Tuesday, July 24, 2012
Really heavy frosts this week, this time last year we had deep snow turning North Otago into a winter wonderland.The moisture of a snow melt would be a blessing this year I feel.
It has been another week of pruning and composting here around this large, never ending garden! all that's needed now is rain to take the compost down to the roots of the plants. It may look as if growth has stopped but here on the coast with the warmer ground there is plenty of feeding going on. The bulbs are starting to make an appearance and will benefit from a dressing of compost along with hellebore (winter roses) which are looking wonderful right now as are pansy's, pollyanthas, and violas which are starting to brighten up the gardens, all these plants respond really well to dried blood sprinkled around them.
Dried blood is also a good tonic for yellowing camellias and rhododendrons, mix it with camellia and rhododendron fertiliser and apply now and they will reward you well come spring.
The garden shops are full of colourful sesanqua camellias in flower, different varieties of flowering hellebore's and cyclamen to brighten up indoors and porches.
These plants will have been grown under protection to get them looking so good so don't be too quick to plant out in the garden, let them harden off gradually first.
Because we have had it quite mild here on the coast but harsh frosts now the foliage of tender plants like geranium and pelagonium plants would be best covered with frost cloth.
Roses:
Mulch, mulch and more mulch. Apply a thick layer of mulch around the base of your roses,( but not covering) the crown. This protects the root zone and enables the plant to concentrate on root movement and getting ready for the growing season.
Un-sprayed Pea or barley straw and well cooked compost are all ideal for mulching. I notice the mulch cooking and steaming away at the resource recovery park each time I am there with my recycling. This compost will be clean of weed seeds and is a very reasonably priced option to use for mulching the garden. Old stable manure can be applied around roses during the winter months before applying mulch, then in early spring apply rose fertiliser and water in well to ensure a consistent food supply for the roots when roses start growing from the top again.
Rose fertiliser has an excellent level of potassium, which is the nutrient responsible for promoting large, vibrant, healthy blooms. For established roses apply 200 g (1 cup) per square metre and water in well. An application just before the end of winter is a good idea, if buds are swelling roses are using food. Apply again in mid December for an autumn flush of blooms.
Vegetable garden:
To have Christmas new potatoes you need to start thinking about them from now on, all varieties are available in shops now. There are early and late varieties so ask about the variety you choose, a potato is not just a potato any more! Lay your seed potatoes out on a tray in a dark dry place and get them sprouting and ready to plant out when the frosts have past.
I have been tidying up my herb garden, cutting down all old woody stems which were left from last summers growth leaving the garden clear to apply compost and a dressing of lime. All herbs like sweetened with lime.
There will never be a better time to choose and plant ornamental and fruiting trees than right now! Each tree will have an informative label to tell you exactly what you will be buying with instructions on how and where to plant. All fruit trees need to grow in an open sunny position.
Keep sowing vegetable seeds in trays for planting out later, plant Cauliflowers and Cabbage seedlings and sow early Peas. In warmer areas you can also plant Lettuce, Silver beet and Broccoli seedlings and Onions
Asparagus crowns are now available and can be planted out in a well composted and fertilised bed. (but NO animal manure)
Gardening by the moon
NEW MOON
Sunday, 29 July 2012
Garden:
Clean out green house and propagation facilities
Sow seed for early tomatoes, in glass houses or for cloches. If cloche-grown then they’ll need to be dwarf varirties.
Plant peas into trays for transplanting when 3 -10cm high
Sow broad beans into seed trays and transplant as soon as the tops emerge above soil
Sow dwarf beans and courgettes into seed trays in warm green house
Make a late sowing of sweet peas
Sow early potatoes
Plant into seed trays petunia, larkspur, calendula, aquilegia, foxglove, hollyhock, honesty, love-in-a-mist, poppy, scabiosa, cornflower, stock, sweet william.
Prepare cloches to warm up the soil in preparation for planting out early beans and courgettes also possibly early cabbages, beetroot, lettuces, cucumbers, and for direct sowing rocket, mizuna, kale and mustard lettuce for spring salad greens; to be cut and harvested as mesclun crops.
As vege beds become dry enough to work begin digging in compost crops.
Feed strawberries and rhubarb at this time
Orchard:
Last chance to check all winter plantings to make sure all trees are staked well, that their bark is not rubbing on tree stakes, and that all ties from last year are not strangling the trees.
If you’re having problems with pollination of fruit trees, and lack of bees is not the problem, it may help to record all your flowering times on a chart for a season or two. Set this up now if needed
Cheers, Linda.
It has been another week of pruning and composting here around this large, never ending garden! all that's needed now is rain to take the compost down to the roots of the plants. It may look as if growth has stopped but here on the coast with the warmer ground there is plenty of feeding going on. The bulbs are starting to make an appearance and will benefit from a dressing of compost along with hellebore (winter roses) which are looking wonderful right now as are pansy's, pollyanthas, and violas which are starting to brighten up the gardens, all these plants respond really well to dried blood sprinkled around them.
Dried blood is also a good tonic for yellowing camellias and rhododendrons, mix it with camellia and rhododendron fertiliser and apply now and they will reward you well come spring.
The garden shops are full of colourful sesanqua camellias in flower, different varieties of flowering hellebore's and cyclamen to brighten up indoors and porches.
These plants will have been grown under protection to get them looking so good so don't be too quick to plant out in the garden, let them harden off gradually first.
Because we have had it quite mild here on the coast but harsh frosts now the foliage of tender plants like geranium and pelagonium plants would be best covered with frost cloth.
Roses:
Mulch, mulch and more mulch. Apply a thick layer of mulch around the base of your roses,( but not covering) the crown. This protects the root zone and enables the plant to concentrate on root movement and getting ready for the growing season.
Un-sprayed Pea or barley straw and well cooked compost are all ideal for mulching. I notice the mulch cooking and steaming away at the resource recovery park each time I am there with my recycling. This compost will be clean of weed seeds and is a very reasonably priced option to use for mulching the garden. Old stable manure can be applied around roses during the winter months before applying mulch, then in early spring apply rose fertiliser and water in well to ensure a consistent food supply for the roots when roses start growing from the top again.
Rose fertiliser has an excellent level of potassium, which is the nutrient responsible for promoting large, vibrant, healthy blooms. For established roses apply 200 g (1 cup) per square metre and water in well. An application just before the end of winter is a good idea, if buds are swelling roses are using food. Apply again in mid December for an autumn flush of blooms.
Vegetable garden:
To have Christmas new potatoes you need to start thinking about them from now on, all varieties are available in shops now. There are early and late varieties so ask about the variety you choose, a potato is not just a potato any more! Lay your seed potatoes out on a tray in a dark dry place and get them sprouting and ready to plant out when the frosts have past.
I have been tidying up my herb garden, cutting down all old woody stems which were left from last summers growth leaving the garden clear to apply compost and a dressing of lime. All herbs like sweetened with lime.
There will never be a better time to choose and plant ornamental and fruiting trees than right now! Each tree will have an informative label to tell you exactly what you will be buying with instructions on how and where to plant. All fruit trees need to grow in an open sunny position.
Keep sowing vegetable seeds in trays for planting out later, plant Cauliflowers and Cabbage seedlings and sow early Peas. In warmer areas you can also plant Lettuce, Silver beet and Broccoli seedlings and Onions
Asparagus crowns are now available and can be planted out in a well composted and fertilised bed. (but NO animal manure)
Gardening by the moon
NEW MOON
Sunday, 29 July 2012
Garden:
Clean out green house and propagation facilities
Sow seed for early tomatoes, in glass houses or for cloches. If cloche-grown then they’ll need to be dwarf varirties.
Plant peas into trays for transplanting when 3 -10cm high
Sow broad beans into seed trays and transplant as soon as the tops emerge above soil
Sow dwarf beans and courgettes into seed trays in warm green house
Make a late sowing of sweet peas
Sow early potatoes
Plant into seed trays petunia, larkspur, calendula, aquilegia, foxglove, hollyhock, honesty, love-in-a-mist, poppy, scabiosa, cornflower, stock, sweet william.
Prepare cloches to warm up the soil in preparation for planting out early beans and courgettes also possibly early cabbages, beetroot, lettuces, cucumbers, and for direct sowing rocket, mizuna, kale and mustard lettuce for spring salad greens; to be cut and harvested as mesclun crops.
As vege beds become dry enough to work begin digging in compost crops.
Feed strawberries and rhubarb at this time
Orchard:
Last chance to check all winter plantings to make sure all trees are staked well, that their bark is not rubbing on tree stakes, and that all ties from last year are not strangling the trees.
If you’re having problems with pollination of fruit trees, and lack of bees is not the problem, it may help to record all your flowering times on a chart for a season or two. Set this up now if needed
Cheers, Linda.
Friday, July 20, 2012
I notice the days are drawing out a little as it is a while now since the shortest day, yes, true not wishful thinking.
What fantastically warm days we have been experiencing this week with temperatures some times higher than the North Island. The warm days really get those spring bulbs pushing through.
This week I have spent another good percentage of my time raking out old leaves, will autumn ever be a distant memory? It is important to get leaves out of every nook and cranny during winter because bugs are looking for places like this to winter over. Once leaves have been removed from the base of roses, hydrangea's and other deciduous plants I am applying manure enriched compost, (not covering the base trunks) to be there in readiness for spring feeding.
I continue to re-sawdust rough pathways which is freshening these areas up and allowing me to find a lot of self sown plants in the old saw dust topping. Every seedling has a future in my garden.
At this time of the year I like to write about the benefits of raised gardens as there is not a lot happening except pruning and cleaning up.
Time to spend gardening is limited for young families today but I am sure most would love to grow their own fresh produce.
Raised gardens are the saviors of gardeners with limited time or poor soil. The basic idea of a raised garden is instead of battling against poor soil conditions, why not build up new soil above ground where you have complete control.
Advantages of a Raised Bed Garden
Raised gardens warm quickly in spring, allowing you to work the soil and plant earlier.
Being raised they drain better.
No compaction of soil, because they are not walked upon.
It's easy to tailor the soil to suit the plants in a raised bed.
Contained raised beds are not difficult to construct using wood or (here in North Otago) Oamaru stone seconds as a surround. If you need time to think about a permanent position for a raised beds you could make some using straw bales as surrounds for a year. Once in place to the size required fill them with soil and compost and plant out.
A sunny location is a must for growing vegetables and herbs.
Access around all sides with a wheel barrow is recommended for ease of maintenance, keep the garden around four feet wide, this way you can access the middle.
Access to water is essential,with drainage being greater raised gardens need good soakings.
A raised bed of six inches above the soil is enough to grow leaf vegetables and herbs and at least ten inches for root veg but I don't see the sense in not raising it to a height that will reduce the amount of digging and bending you do.
keep an eye on what is on offer for planting now, this is the very best time for choice when buying deciduous tree's and shrubs and I see an abundance of fresh new bedding and vegetable plants on offer now.
Gardening by the moon
LAST QUARTER
Saturday, 21 July 2012
Garden:
Check out new and inspirational books! Time to do lots of dreaming about your garden goals for the year to come and get your creative juices flowing.
Sharpen garden stakes, trim pea stakes, prepare labels, check all cloche and cover materials as well as all netting hoops and bird covers. Make sure you have enough seedling trays to get you through Spring.
Make up hot beds if you will be needing them for peppers, eggplants, tomatoes and other early crops next month.. 20cm of horse manure (insulated underneath with hay) and some sand on top will decompose slowly and get your seedlings off to a good start. Some insulating hay around the
seedling trays will also help.
Orchard:
Plant fruit tress
Prune fruit trees
Manure and prune fruit trees, remember all of our fruit trees could probably do with available calcium and phoshate . There are good all round fertilisers on offer for fruit trees. If you have had issues in the past with lots of flowers and not much fruit and you know you have the bees and the pollinator trees the correct mineral balance will ensure fruit set.
Prune tie and de-sucker, manure and mulch,, berry fruits, blueberry, cranberry, blackberry, loganberry, raspberry, currants, etc( if not already done)
Prune tamarillos that have finished cropping.
The week before last there was a mention in the moon section regarding HIGH BRIX potatoes,
this would have been a ponder for most!! I normally leave that scientific information out of my notes...stick to the basics is my policy!
I take the planting by the moon notes from those who know more about it than I and leave out what is not relevant to the home gardener but failed to exclude this ....High Brix is reference to a measure of the carbohydrate level in plant juices and plant density, a High Brix measure claims to produce heaver crops.
Cheers, Linda.
What fantastically warm days we have been experiencing this week with temperatures some times higher than the North Island. The warm days really get those spring bulbs pushing through.
This week I have spent another good percentage of my time raking out old leaves, will autumn ever be a distant memory? It is important to get leaves out of every nook and cranny during winter because bugs are looking for places like this to winter over. Once leaves have been removed from the base of roses, hydrangea's and other deciduous plants I am applying manure enriched compost, (not covering the base trunks) to be there in readiness for spring feeding.
I continue to re-sawdust rough pathways which is freshening these areas up and allowing me to find a lot of self sown plants in the old saw dust topping. Every seedling has a future in my garden.
At this time of the year I like to write about the benefits of raised gardens as there is not a lot happening except pruning and cleaning up.
Time to spend gardening is limited for young families today but I am sure most would love to grow their own fresh produce.
Raised gardens are the saviors of gardeners with limited time or poor soil. The basic idea of a raised garden is instead of battling against poor soil conditions, why not build up new soil above ground where you have complete control.
Advantages of a Raised Bed Garden
Raised gardens warm quickly in spring, allowing you to work the soil and plant earlier.
Being raised they drain better.
No compaction of soil, because they are not walked upon.
It's easy to tailor the soil to suit the plants in a raised bed.
Contained raised beds are not difficult to construct using wood or (here in North Otago) Oamaru stone seconds as a surround. If you need time to think about a permanent position for a raised beds you could make some using straw bales as surrounds for a year. Once in place to the size required fill them with soil and compost and plant out.
A sunny location is a must for growing vegetables and herbs.
Access around all sides with a wheel barrow is recommended for ease of maintenance, keep the garden around four feet wide, this way you can access the middle.
Access to water is essential,with drainage being greater raised gardens need good soakings.
A raised bed of six inches above the soil is enough to grow leaf vegetables and herbs and at least ten inches for root veg but I don't see the sense in not raising it to a height that will reduce the amount of digging and bending you do.
keep an eye on what is on offer for planting now, this is the very best time for choice when buying deciduous tree's and shrubs and I see an abundance of fresh new bedding and vegetable plants on offer now.
Gardening by the moon
LAST QUARTER
Saturday, 21 July 2012
Garden:
Check out new and inspirational books! Time to do lots of dreaming about your garden goals for the year to come and get your creative juices flowing.
Sharpen garden stakes, trim pea stakes, prepare labels, check all cloche and cover materials as well as all netting hoops and bird covers. Make sure you have enough seedling trays to get you through Spring.
Make up hot beds if you will be needing them for peppers, eggplants, tomatoes and other early crops next month.. 20cm of horse manure (insulated underneath with hay) and some sand on top will decompose slowly and get your seedlings off to a good start. Some insulating hay around the
seedling trays will also help.
Orchard:
Plant fruit tress
Prune fruit trees
Manure and prune fruit trees, remember all of our fruit trees could probably do with available calcium and phoshate . There are good all round fertilisers on offer for fruit trees. If you have had issues in the past with lots of flowers and not much fruit and you know you have the bees and the pollinator trees the correct mineral balance will ensure fruit set.
Prune tie and de-sucker, manure and mulch,, berry fruits, blueberry, cranberry, blackberry, loganberry, raspberry, currants, etc( if not already done)
Prune tamarillos that have finished cropping.
The week before last there was a mention in the moon section regarding HIGH BRIX potatoes,
this would have been a ponder for most!! I normally leave that scientific information out of my notes...stick to the basics is my policy!
I take the planting by the moon notes from those who know more about it than I and leave out what is not relevant to the home gardener but failed to exclude this ....High Brix is reference to a measure of the carbohydrate level in plant juices and plant density, a High Brix measure claims to produce heaver crops.
Cheers, Linda.
Tuesday, July 10, 2012
Gardening in North Otago 10th July 2012
Brrrrrrr still hard frosts but really the lovely warmish days are worth the cold start here on the North Otago coast and the bugs that thought they could just cruise into spring will be getting a hurry up now. The most urgent requirement right now is rain! the ground is parched and my trees and shrubs are suffering especially camellias, rhododendrons and azalea's which will no doubt show signs of this in spring by displaying leaf tip brown off, this always shows up in the following season. All shallow rooted shrubs like camellia, rhododendron, hydrangea, azalea, lavender, Hebe, fuchsia and some perennials such as Ajuga Reptans and sedum need to be deep root watered when the ground is as dry as this winter. I notice my iris's are looking very thirsty as well so I have been using a watering can to apply fish emulsion fertiliser before each plant gets a root soak and a compost mulch for those that have not yet been mulched.
Some Daphne’s are in flower now and hellebore's, primroses and polyanthus are just starting to brighten little corners of our garden.
Primroses are so pretty they clump up well and in time can be broken up spread around to add colour to a winter garden. If you are at the stage of breaking up clumps, remove quite a few leaves on transplanting and keep the water up to them until they take hold, they will soon grow new roots to support them. Polyanthus and primulas will benefit from an application of Dried Blood to increase plant vigour and flowering
Under glass sow seeds of antirrhinum (snap dragon), carnation, calendula (common marigold), sweet peas, verbena and viola they should pop up and be ready to plant out in spring. for planting out in Spring.
Dahlias, gladioli, and peonies are also coming in this month and can be planted from now on in good draining soil, if you think there is a chance they would sit in wet soggy soil over winter they may rot, planting can continue until September
.If young trees or shrubs need transplanting now is a good time to do it whilst they are at their most dormant stage.
Remember to continue protecting plants like Margarete daisies and pelargoniums from frosts with Frost Cloth as a cover above them, not touching. I have Margarete daisies that frost on the top each year, I just leave the frosted tops on to protect the new growth beneath. This would not work further inland. It would be best to protect or nurse cuttings to be planted out when the frosts are over.
Rose pruning is still going on here in my garden, just in case you need reminding on how to tackle pruning.... make a slanted cut just above a strong outward facing bud.
Standard roses should be pruned to about 25cm above the main stem and bush roses can be cut back about two-thirds, leaving 3-4 buds on each branch. Climbers can go back leaving 5-6 strong canes. Secateurs must be sharp to avoid damage by ripping branches which leads to die back.
Turn over compost now if you have not already done so and add some moisture if the pile is dry.
If you still have leaves to Rake up why not fill large black rubbish bags,add a little water and leave to rot. Leaf mulch is such a natural benefit to soil which we tend to remove at leaf fall stage because it looks untidy.Rotting it down this way you can then add it to the soil and it will not be noticed
At this time of the year I make a few trips to the Waireaka sale yards to the Waireaka Valley Lions Club sawdust and sheep manure stand, volunteers clean out calving sheds and under shearing sheds to keep the stand topped up for keen gardeners. I use the calving shed sawdust on garden pathways and the sheep manure on the compost heaps, on the vegetable garden and around the roses when horse manure is not at hand. Sawdust can be used on wet gardens as a weed suppressant and it helps to absorb excess moisture, but never on dry gardens, it will dry out soil already not retaining moisture.
Vegetables
In land start raising vegetable seeds for spring planting in glass houses or under glass or plastic with ventilation spaces to circulate air and stop seeds going mouldy.
On the coast plant seedling plants that are now on offer along with garlic cloves.
Start sprouting seed potatoes, early varieties like Jersey benne, Cliffs kidney, Rocket, Ilam hardy, Maris Anchor should be sprouting now for an early planting.
Comfrey, it is such a useful plant and if you can get your hands on some I suggest you plant some root sections in an area of your garden where it can spread. Comfrey needs to be planted where it can send it's roots very deep down into the soil to tap into much needed nutrients. It is fast growing, high in potassium and can be cut back again and again. I have listed below some uses for comfrey around the garden.
Compost activator, add to your compost bin to heat up the decomposing materials and enriches the compost.
Put a handful of comfrey leaves into a bucket of rainwater and let them rot down for around 6 weeks to give you a rich liquid fertilizer for plants.
Lay comfrey leaves in a potato trench and leave for 3 days prior to planting the tubers to give them a potassium rich boost of fertiliser.
Use as a Comfrey leaf mulch around plants, by layering leaves around the stems of plants. Potassium will slowly be released to the plants as the leaves break down – Great for tomatoes, beans and fruit bushes.
Use wilted leaves as a nutrient rich Chicken feed
Gardening by the moon
FULL MOON
Saturday 14 July 2012
Garden:
Collect your seeds ready for planting into seed trays next new moon
Plant broad beans and peas into trays ready to transplant when tops are up.
Now might be the time to book yourself into a Bio Intensive Gardening Workshop? This workshop will equip you with the best information and practical experience I know of to get you growing in a way that works. It will teach you how to get the best results and in the most efficient way possible.
Orchard:
Look closely at the shape of your fruit trees and plan how pruning can improve them if needed.
http://www.koanga.org.nz
Cheers, Linda
Some Daphne’s are in flower now and hellebore's, primroses and polyanthus are just starting to brighten little corners of our garden.
Primroses are so pretty they clump up well and in time can be broken up spread around to add colour to a winter garden. If you are at the stage of breaking up clumps, remove quite a few leaves on transplanting and keep the water up to them until they take hold, they will soon grow new roots to support them. Polyanthus and primulas will benefit from an application of Dried Blood to increase plant vigour and flowering
Under glass sow seeds of antirrhinum (snap dragon), carnation, calendula (common marigold), sweet peas, verbena and viola they should pop up and be ready to plant out in spring. for planting out in Spring.
Dahlias, gladioli, and peonies are also coming in this month and can be planted from now on in good draining soil, if you think there is a chance they would sit in wet soggy soil over winter they may rot, planting can continue until September
.If young trees or shrubs need transplanting now is a good time to do it whilst they are at their most dormant stage.
Remember to continue protecting plants like Margarete daisies and pelargoniums from frosts with Frost Cloth as a cover above them, not touching. I have Margarete daisies that frost on the top each year, I just leave the frosted tops on to protect the new growth beneath. This would not work further inland. It would be best to protect or nurse cuttings to be planted out when the frosts are over.
Rose pruning is still going on here in my garden, just in case you need reminding on how to tackle pruning.... make a slanted cut just above a strong outward facing bud.
Standard roses should be pruned to about 25cm above the main stem and bush roses can be cut back about two-thirds, leaving 3-4 buds on each branch. Climbers can go back leaving 5-6 strong canes. Secateurs must be sharp to avoid damage by ripping branches which leads to die back.
Turn over compost now if you have not already done so and add some moisture if the pile is dry.
If you still have leaves to Rake up why not fill large black rubbish bags,add a little water and leave to rot. Leaf mulch is such a natural benefit to soil which we tend to remove at leaf fall stage because it looks untidy.Rotting it down this way you can then add it to the soil and it will not be noticed
At this time of the year I make a few trips to the Waireaka sale yards to the Waireaka Valley Lions Club sawdust and sheep manure stand, volunteers clean out calving sheds and under shearing sheds to keep the stand topped up for keen gardeners. I use the calving shed sawdust on garden pathways and the sheep manure on the compost heaps, on the vegetable garden and around the roses when horse manure is not at hand. Sawdust can be used on wet gardens as a weed suppressant and it helps to absorb excess moisture, but never on dry gardens, it will dry out soil already not retaining moisture.
Vegetables
In land start raising vegetable seeds for spring planting in glass houses or under glass or plastic with ventilation spaces to circulate air and stop seeds going mouldy.
On the coast plant seedling plants that are now on offer along with garlic cloves.
Start sprouting seed potatoes, early varieties like Jersey benne, Cliffs kidney, Rocket, Ilam hardy, Maris Anchor should be sprouting now for an early planting.
Comfrey, it is such a useful plant and if you can get your hands on some I suggest you plant some root sections in an area of your garden where it can spread. Comfrey needs to be planted where it can send it's roots very deep down into the soil to tap into much needed nutrients. It is fast growing, high in potassium and can be cut back again and again. I have listed below some uses for comfrey around the garden.
Compost activator, add to your compost bin to heat up the decomposing materials and enriches the compost.
Put a handful of comfrey leaves into a bucket of rainwater and let them rot down for around 6 weeks to give you a rich liquid fertilizer for plants.
Lay comfrey leaves in a potato trench and leave for 3 days prior to planting the tubers to give them a potassium rich boost of fertiliser.
Use as a Comfrey leaf mulch around plants, by layering leaves around the stems of plants. Potassium will slowly be released to the plants as the leaves break down – Great for tomatoes, beans and fruit bushes.
Use wilted leaves as a nutrient rich Chicken feed
Gardening by the moon
FULL MOON
Saturday 14 July 2012
Garden:
Collect your seeds ready for planting into seed trays next new moon
Plant broad beans and peas into trays ready to transplant when tops are up.
Now might be the time to book yourself into a Bio Intensive Gardening Workshop? This workshop will equip you with the best information and practical experience I know of to get you growing in a way that works. It will teach you how to get the best results and in the most efficient way possible.
Orchard:
Look closely at the shape of your fruit trees and plan how pruning can improve them if needed.
http://www.koanga.org.nz
Cheers, Linda
Monday, July 2, 2012
Home again after seven weeks in the UK summer, helping a busy Daughter with our newest little Granddaughter Eliza belle. Lucky me.
Wow, how dry it is here in North Otago and such hard frosts we are getting. The brilliant days that follow give us here on the coast at least half a day to work in the garden after the thaw. No such luck further inland with frozen ground, the perfect time for garden planning to be a step ahead before spring.
The frosts are hardening rose wood in readiness for the big prune, the time when rose pruning should be completed varies by several weeks from the warmest to coldest gardens. It should be done and dusted by the time buds break. I have not been about yet to see if the new seasons bare rooted roses are in, if they are on offer it pays to read up about the different varieties and choose what is best for the sunny spot reserved for them in your garden. All newly planted roses still need pruned at an outward facing bud, growers just cut the top off when roses are lifted from a field.
If pruning old established rose bushes have a wire brush with you to work on the old gnarled wood which happens in the center of a bush after many years of pruning. Working vigorously with a wire brush will help to stimulate the still active wood below and it may push out new buds, it is worth the effort.
Prune out any inward facing branches at an outward facing bud or swelling to open the bush up then prune back all remaining branches at an out ward facing bud two or three buds from the bottom of the branch depending on the strength of the branch. Remove all weak spindly little branches, they will never produce flowers. Mulch with manure enriched compost but remember to keep it back from the trunk wood of rose bushes as it can cause rot when the ground is wet for long periods.
Now is the time to spray with lime sulphur which is Ideal as a winter clean up spray for roses and deciduous trees to control hard to kill pests and diseases.Controls fungal diseases, scale and mites.Also controls moss and lichen.
I spray with lime sulphur before pruning which will defoliate the roses then follow that up after pruning with a copper spray & winter oil.
The bulk of new seasons bare rooted deciduous trees are arriving into retail shops now, continue planting but avoid times when the ground is frozen or excessively wet. Young deciduous trees and shrubs can also be moved at this time, trim damaged roots and cut back any that are inconveniently long.
Evergreen trees and shrubs are on offer as well, but don't be in a hurry to plant them. Keep in bags outside in a sheltered place to harden off, they can sit like this and be planted out at the end of winter. Choose now and plant later to give them a good start.
Make sure to read the labels to know how high and wide a shrub and tree will grow, some, like natives grow fast and when mature will throw considerable shade. When planting along side the house ask advice.
Boost bedding plants with fish based fertiliser or a little dried blood to encourage buds during these sunny winter days.
Fruit & Veg.
Finish planting deciduous fruit trees and bushes in a sunny site, avoid frosty hollows for early starters such as plums and pears.
Frosty sites are no disadvantage for soft fruits as winter chills will stimulate fruit buds.
Continue to shelter citrus in frosty gardens, they should be offering a lot of fruit to pick now, marmalade in the making?
Citrus scale – white flecks on the trunk and branches, treat in winter with low toxic Lime Sulphur, try to avoid the leaves if you can as Lime Sulphur burns and should not be applied to evergreen plants as it will damage the foliage, and It should not be applied to apricot trees because they are sulphur sensitive but other deciduous fruit trees will benefit from a lime sulphur spray.The burning action assists in the final removal of foliage, burns disease spores and insect pests harboring over in nooks and crannies waiting for spring. Spray trees first then prune at a later date. You can greatly reduce both disease and pest problems now, and have better results in the spring/summer period with less spraying to do.
In cold areas start garlic off in containers and plant out later when the ground warms up.
Planting by the moon
FIRST QUARTER
Saturday, 7 July 2012
Garden:
Clean out tunnel houses, green houses and potting benches ready for spring planting - slugs and snails live under rubbish and things lying around
Repot and revitalise pot plants
Prepare beds for early potatoes, peas and broad beans(in the north). Aim to grow high brix early potatoes, have them around early September.
Orchard:
Once all planting and pruning, manuring and mulching is over in the orchard, it’s holiday time, you’ll get a small break before the vege garden is full on!
Cheers, Linda
Wow, how dry it is here in North Otago and such hard frosts we are getting. The brilliant days that follow give us here on the coast at least half a day to work in the garden after the thaw. No such luck further inland with frozen ground, the perfect time for garden planning to be a step ahead before spring.
The frosts are hardening rose wood in readiness for the big prune, the time when rose pruning should be completed varies by several weeks from the warmest to coldest gardens. It should be done and dusted by the time buds break. I have not been about yet to see if the new seasons bare rooted roses are in, if they are on offer it pays to read up about the different varieties and choose what is best for the sunny spot reserved for them in your garden. All newly planted roses still need pruned at an outward facing bud, growers just cut the top off when roses are lifted from a field.
If pruning old established rose bushes have a wire brush with you to work on the old gnarled wood which happens in the center of a bush after many years of pruning. Working vigorously with a wire brush will help to stimulate the still active wood below and it may push out new buds, it is worth the effort.
Prune out any inward facing branches at an outward facing bud or swelling to open the bush up then prune back all remaining branches at an out ward facing bud two or three buds from the bottom of the branch depending on the strength of the branch. Remove all weak spindly little branches, they will never produce flowers. Mulch with manure enriched compost but remember to keep it back from the trunk wood of rose bushes as it can cause rot when the ground is wet for long periods.
Now is the time to spray with lime sulphur which is Ideal as a winter clean up spray for roses and deciduous trees to control hard to kill pests and diseases.Controls fungal diseases, scale and mites.Also controls moss and lichen.
I spray with lime sulphur before pruning which will defoliate the roses then follow that up after pruning with a copper spray & winter oil.
The bulk of new seasons bare rooted deciduous trees are arriving into retail shops now, continue planting but avoid times when the ground is frozen or excessively wet. Young deciduous trees and shrubs can also be moved at this time, trim damaged roots and cut back any that are inconveniently long.
Evergreen trees and shrubs are on offer as well, but don't be in a hurry to plant them. Keep in bags outside in a sheltered place to harden off, they can sit like this and be planted out at the end of winter. Choose now and plant later to give them a good start.
Make sure to read the labels to know how high and wide a shrub and tree will grow, some, like natives grow fast and when mature will throw considerable shade. When planting along side the house ask advice.
Boost bedding plants with fish based fertiliser or a little dried blood to encourage buds during these sunny winter days.
Fruit & Veg.
Finish planting deciduous fruit trees and bushes in a sunny site, avoid frosty hollows for early starters such as plums and pears.
Frosty sites are no disadvantage for soft fruits as winter chills will stimulate fruit buds.
Continue to shelter citrus in frosty gardens, they should be offering a lot of fruit to pick now, marmalade in the making?
Citrus scale – white flecks on the trunk and branches, treat in winter with low toxic Lime Sulphur, try to avoid the leaves if you can as Lime Sulphur burns and should not be applied to evergreen plants as it will damage the foliage, and It should not be applied to apricot trees because they are sulphur sensitive but other deciduous fruit trees will benefit from a lime sulphur spray.The burning action assists in the final removal of foliage, burns disease spores and insect pests harboring over in nooks and crannies waiting for spring. Spray trees first then prune at a later date. You can greatly reduce both disease and pest problems now, and have better results in the spring/summer period with less spraying to do.
In cold areas start garlic off in containers and plant out later when the ground warms up.
Planting by the moon
FIRST QUARTER
Saturday, 7 July 2012
Garden:
Clean out tunnel houses, green houses and potting benches ready for spring planting - slugs and snails live under rubbish and things lying around
Repot and revitalise pot plants
Prepare beds for early potatoes, peas and broad beans(in the north). Aim to grow high brix early potatoes, have them around early September.
Orchard:
Once all planting and pruning, manuring and mulching is over in the orchard, it’s holiday time, you’ll get a small break before the vege garden is full on!
Cheers, Linda
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