Gardening in North Otago 24th.2.2016

This real summer weather continues and the warm days are a joy to garden in, all that is needed is one good shower to keep the moisture levels up. Keeping the water up here in this garden is top priority, dragging hose's from one garden to another with a small determined dog still pulling the hose end the opposite way!! Yes, I know he thinks it is our special game and my verbal responses like Scruuuufffff...... seem to be the attention he craves from this one sided game. 

As well as hose dragging I have been cleaning paved areas and structures with a water blaster, what a difference once moss, liken and dirt have been removed, it sure beats sanding for ages on wooden seats and structures before painting.
Keep tidying up the fluffy new growth on hedges, the sharp neatness really stands out among the full summer growth. 

I thought it might be a good time to mention the pruning and shaping of shrubs that have flowered on previous years growth like rhododendrons, camellias, azaleas, ceonothus, forsythia and coleonema (breath of heaven) but only if they need to be trimmed and shaped to reduce their height or width. This should always be done while there is still enough growing season left for them to make new growth and harden off well before temperatures plummet. In colder areas like Kurow this trimming should be done as soon as flowering has ended, with the exception of hydrangeas you can leave the old growth on through the winter to protect the new shoots then prune in Spring when they begin to shoot.Also this is the time to cut back natives like pittosporums and hebe's as they must have new growth hardened before winter, if you do intend to shape them be quick or leave them until after winter. 

I am also working my way round mature camellias and thinning them out, there should be enough open spaces for a bird to fly through to let enough light in to encourage the best buds for next spring. And as time allows the removal of seed heads from rhododendrons is recommended, especially on newly planted rhododendrons to encourage new plant growth. There is a place on the stem where if bent will snap the seed head clean off without damaging the new buds, it dose not take long to discover where this point is.

Seed collecting starts now for me, lupins, mignonette, poppies, dianthus, any plant that is needed again for next spring/summer. 
I left a clump of pansies to make seed after flowering, it has now surrounded itself in a multitude of seedlings for me to pot up and grow on. The original clump is now cut back and putting on new fresh growth. 

Ornamental grasses have finished making seed and can be cut back now before too many of the seed heads float about the garden and germinate, cut them well back and they will soon fluff up again to waft about in a breeze.

Lawns.

With all this heat lawns are suffering and begging for the next shower, I notice even the lawn weeds are struggling which means lawn weed spray would work a treat while weeds are thirsty, spot spraying on a dull day is kinder to worms and bee's than full lawn coverage on a sunny day.

Vegetables.

Keeping water up to veg Gardens is on going, my raised beds dry out in no time so good soakings are require rather than the sprinkler now and then. I find myself wanting cooler nights for the sake of vegetables which is a bit on the sad side considering it is for once a fantastic summer.

If you are prepared to keep the water up keep planting in rotation, leaf veg where root veg has been, the warm soil will keep germinating and producing until the first frost.

Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in North Otago 17. 2. 2016

Warm days and nights, what a wonderful warm summer we are enjoying now which means the hoses are out again to revive plants while they cope with some very intense heat. Early morning is a good time to get moisture down around roots, for those who would not have time to water before work, set the hose up ready to turn on first thing in the most needed areas to give a good soak before you leave. Evaporation from leaves is a problem especially in shallow rooted rhododendrons, camellias, azaleas and tall plants where moisture needs to reach a distance.  
My wheelbarrow has been busy this week, with so much growth the cutting back seems endless, any plant or bush that has finished flowering needs cut back to where the new growth is starting to appear, hebe's finish flowering and make seed very quickly, cut all those seed heads and stems off, the bush will look bare but will soon push out new growth and stay the size you require it to be.  Photinia bushes and hedges trimmed now will reward you with new bright red foliage in April / May and into the winter.
Keep the water up to roses, if roots dry out between watering's they will respond with yellowing leaves, rust and black spot, don't be alarmed these are usually old leaves,  remove them before they fall and spread disease into the ground even if it means removing most of the bush, new leaves will soon take their place.
If you have buddleias, ( the butterfly bush) tall thin arching branches with grey/blue leaves and lavender, purple or pink long narrow flower heads, cut them back almost to the ground when they have finished flowering then again at the end of winter. They grow back very quickly and are best grown at the back of a border.
Garden centers are full of lovely bedding plants and shrubs right now, read labels regarding where to plant, sun/shade, with shrubs frost tolerance is important, I have noticed tender shrubs not suitable for hard frost areas on offer, they look nice but have probably been grown under cover and would not cope with frosts if planted out in the open, in pots under cover they should be ok.
Lawns: I spot sprayed flat weeds and clover in the lawns this week, with worms in mind I never cover a whole lawn in spray.
The evidence of grass grub is noticeable in tree shaded areas now, the adult brown beetles tend to lay eggs under the trees they feed on. There was an absence of product for a couple of years but I see there are choices back on the market. Eggs of the NZ grass grub are laid in the soil during summer; normally hatching after about 2 weeks. The small larvae feed on the grass roots until spring, infested grass dies off leaving a dead mat. The grubs are usually found about 15 cm below the soil surface and control of the grub requires getting insecticide to this level in the soil. Treatment is most effective from February to March.

Fruit: 

With the sunny days fruit has been ripening, I have never seen our apricot tree so laden and have been picking bucket fulls for jam, sauce, freezing and giving away. Late peaches, apples and grapes need water kept up to them.

Vegetables:

Keep planting all vegetable plants in rotation...if you now have a space where root veg were growing fill it with leafy veg and visa versa. Any spaces you have vacant fill with a green crop, wheat, barley, oats, blue lupin or mustard seed. Dig into the soil before it flowers. The humus created from a green crop is about the very best thing you can do for tied soil.

Cheers, Linda.

-- 

Linda Wilson

Rockvale Gardens

37 Airedale Road

Weston

North Otago 9401

Ph: 03 434 9786

Mbl: 027 4430256

Gardening in North Otago 9 /2/ 2016

We got our share of sun last week and gardens responded by lifting blooms and pushing out buds.

I must comment on how pretty our town is right now with beautiful blue agapantha's cooling warm sunny gardens and complementing the second flush roses and vibrant dahlia's, a special mention to the colorful Council gardens and pretty hanging baskets.

I am still cutting back and dead heading so much after those wet soggy days, it all has to go if it has died back to encourage new fresh growth.

February is a good month for taking cuttings and propagating your own plants because by late summer the soft new spring growth has hardened and the cutting is less likely to lose water from the leaves. Semi-succulent plants like geraniums (Pelargoniums) or impatiens are easiest for beginners, but many common shrubs such as abelia, buxus, lavenders,camellias, azaleas, fuchsias and hebe's have a relatively high success rate, it is all about keeping the cut pieces alive while they develop their own new roots. Professional nursery people grow cuttings in glasshouses where they’re regularly misted with fine sprays of water. But there are lots of techniques that can help a home gardener to achieve success. Take cuttings early in the morning, while it’s still cool. Choose tip pieces that are about 100- 150 mm long. Pop immediately into water.Working in the shade, fill pots with Seed Raising Mix / crusher dust and water well, allow to drain, trim the base of the cutting so that it ends just below a leaf node (which is where the leaf  has been attached to the stem). Remove bottom leaves, leaving a few at the top, large leaves can be cut in half. Dip the base of the cutting into hormone Gel or powder then poke into the mix, a 150mm pot can hold about six cuttings. Place pot in a lightly shaded spot and cover with plastic wrap held above the cuttings, (wire hoops made out of an old coat hangers work well ) keep moist and Check regularly and after a couple of months gently move the stems to feel if they’re firm. This will mean roots have started, plant in individual pots when roots are established.

Hedges here got a light tidy up last week, (not the buxus, too much heat in the sun to trim them just now.) but ok for all other hedges that have put on unwanted new growth.

 , they are in the shops and they want to be in the ground now. A bulb comes ready-equipped with food and the promise of a flower and I feel bulbs look best planted in groups. The one thing we can hold off from at this time of the year is planting trees and shrubs, unless you are able to water daily, no reason to not choose and buy trees and shrubs when you see them on offer now, store in light shade while still in growing bags and keep the water up to them until planting time in mid to late autumn. 

Lawns: During that last rain I fertilised lawns and the lawn weeds responded well along with the grass, hydrocotyle is thriving here this year so I sprayed with hydrocotyle spray which also deals to a number of other lawn weeds including clover, sorry worms!

 

Fruit: Feed citrus trees with citrus food and spray any scale you notice with winter oil. 

My grapes have scummed to botrytis again this year, I removed a lot of shading leaves to let what sun there was in during those overcast days but mindful at the same time not to expose them too much to sun burn. It if they are affected too badly it looks like I will be making late season sweet wine, in wine making circles Botrytis cinerea is a fungus that is referred to as "The noble rot"which zaps most of the moisture from the fruit, late harvest grapes are more similar to raisins than plump grapes,\.

Vegetables: Keep sowing veg seeds like carrot, beetroot, parsnip, spring onion, brussels sprout, keeping onions and lettuce because there is plenty of growing time left  to germinate seeds before the frost start again. Dig and store potatoes if you feel they have been in the ground too long, I was doing this the other day with the unwanted help of scruff the dog...I am sure he thought I was digging up ball's to be carted off ready for throwing! 

A generous amount of fresh mixed herbes cut and placed on top of dug potatoes is an old garden tip for keeping them from rotting and sprouting. I use thyme, rosemary, sage, marjoram and mint.

Cheers, Linda.

-- 

Gardening in North Otago February 9th 2016

February, Children back at School, ok, now we really are into this new working year!!!
So good to have the sun back after all those dull, damp days, however the dullness did not stop green growth it was the flowering and fruit ripening that suffered, mushy rose buds and blooms, mold on grapes and strawberries and green, tomatoes, apricots, peaces and nectarines......sound about right? remove any affected blooms and fruit because fungus will spread especially in a glass or tunnel house.

It's the right time from now on to plant large flowering (hybrid) clematis to get roots established before winter.
Fungus spray on roots and growth at planting will help eliminate the wilt problem some clematis suffer from at planting time.When planting try not to disturb the roots and sprinkle a little lime around the drip line to sweeten the ground. There are some stunning hybrid clematis on offer, huge or delicate flowers, in vibrant shades that to me have a tropical look climbing and spilling through gardens, I have a stunning claret red one flowering now and scrambling up over a structure. I forget about this one every year until it's blooms to surprise and please me.

Spring bulbs, strange I know to think about Spring but wanting a spring bulb display starts now. Clumps are much more effective than one planted here and there, so if you have two or three daffodils or tulips scattered about your garden now would be the time to dig up same bulbs and plant together for maximum effect.

Continue dead heading dahlias and petunias to keep them bushy and flowering longer, remove stalky old growth right back to where the stem is plumper. 

Keep trimming hedges as they put on soft new growth and either compost the trimmings or scatter them around the garden, they are soft enough to break down at this time of the year.

Lawns

Mowing, mowing, mowing the lawns are so lush and green for this time of the year and clippings used as mulch have given our garden continuous humus as it is breaks down, I fertilised lawns during the rain which adds to the nutrients for gardens and compost.
I haven't seen many brown grass grub beetles as yet but they are more noticeable in new gardens with young trees. We was horrified when our garden was young and all the new trees were devoured by those night beetles but the leaves soon grew back again and the trees grew on to be the beautiful bones of the garden.

Vegetables:
plant, pick and enjoy.

-- 

Linda Wilson

Rockvale Gardens

37 Airedale Road

Weston

North Otago 9401

Ph: 03 434 9786

Mbl: 027 4430256

Gardening in North Otago 20th.1. 2016

Happy New gardening year to all who toil in the soil. 

What a great summer so far, heat and rain when needed what more could a Gardener ask for.

Some of my roses are suffering badly from rust from on leaves this year. some roses are always going to be more susceptible to rust attack and I feel these roses succumb when they become distressed between watering's. I continue to remove rust effected leaves when time allows rather then spray with a fungicide . I don't use sprinklers late in the day if overcast, wet leaves going into warm nights encourages mildew. Deep watering around the roots is what I recommend to keep fungus at bay. Remove all diseased leaves from the bush and ground around roots and add compost plus blood and bone or slow release fertiliser, with continuous blooming roses zap nitrogen from the ground. Continue dead heading roses and give then a summer prune. cut a spent flower stem down to an out facing bud on a thick, strong part of stem. 

So many plants require cutting back now, my wheel barrow is on the go most days filling up in no time with cut back lupins,munkshood, mignonette, nasturtiums, iris, buddleia and delphiniums to name a few. I have just cut back acanthus mollis known sometimes as (Bears britches) or (The oyster plant), I grow a lot of this plant which flops all over the place now in the heat.  I cut them well back because it will not take long before new leaves regrow for autumn and winter.

My hydrangea's are wonderful right now, big healthy leaves and large full blooms, and I guess because of the frequent rains the colours are very intense. Petunias are taking center stage now, they are great gap fillers for sunny gardens, but do not preform well in shade. A shady spot can be filled with impatiens which are also colourful when planted in bold groups. 

Dead heading rhododendrons is really boring and time consuming but worth doing on newly planted bushes to encourage growth into the bush not into making seeds, there is a point where the spent flower seed heads break off cleanly without disturbing the new growth shoots at the sides, once you start you will find that break off point. I have started seed collecting, sweet peas, sweet William, poppies, iris, there is a lot of ripening going on and I have a lot of small paper bags stored away already. Get stakes in around Chrysanthemums now before they get too tall. Tip cuttings can be taken from chrysanthemums now, I find they root well in river sand.Chrysanthemums flower in Autumn.

I removed most of the new, wild growth from the wisteria growing in front of our house last week. Wisterias put out a heap of unneeded growth after they have flowered, if your wisteria is covering what it is supposed to all long wispy growth should be removed. if left they will twine and become new branches.

 

Lawns: I was out with the lawn fertiliser when heavy rain and see the weeds have been fed as well so will need to spot spray again, it's never ending when lawns need to look good. 

Fruit and Veg. Goosberries cropped well this season and pots of black current jam have been made and some bagged and in the freezer for winter pies. Cut off the fruiting branches and then remove the currents in a more comfortable place than bending over the bushes, this way you prune at the same time.  

The vegetable garden is doing fine, seeds are popping up in no time after sowing, lettuces, potatoes and tomatoes have been worth the effort and my corn and pumpkins are putting on good growth now but I find myself telling the pumpkins to hurry up as they and corn need a long hot ripening season. Tomatoes are doing well with all the sunny days, keep glass houses moist through the day because white fly like it dry. Keep planting all veg, seeds and plants (apart from corn and pumpkin) they should have been started long before now to give them time to ripen.

Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in North Otago December 15th 2015

How blessed we Gardeners and Farmers have been in receiving fantastic heavy rain on Tuesday, it saved me such a lot of much needed non watering time.  I was out in the rain with the fertiliser for the gardens and lawns, but even without, the soaking will do so much good to growth at this time of the year when most will be leaving gardens and farms to  head off for a break. 

 This week has been another cutting back time for me, peony roses, late spring and early summer perennials and annuals that are past their best.

The plants I have cut back are already starting to bush up again with fresh new growth and will soon fill the gaps, but before they do compost can be added to hungry ground.

My delphiniums have grown so tall and strong this year they pushed over the supports, its hard to stand them up again with out damaging them. I cut them back to the point where they have bent, usually removing the strong center stem, the remainder will  put out smaller flower heads once the main bloom has been taken. Delphiniums respond well to feeding, compost containing old stable manure encourages roots to spread and increase the clumps.

Dead heading roses starts now, (hybrid tea's) once a bloom is over you need to prune the spent bloom as well as a third of the stem back to an out facing leaf/bud, by doing this the new bloom will grow to the right height. For the cluster type (floribunda) remove spent blooms one at a time then prune as above

Vegetable garden: So much is ready for picking in the veg garden right now, Christmas dinner tables will be laden with fresh produce.

Fruit: cover the black current and raspberry bushes from the birds if you are heading off, maybe someone you know could pick and use what may be other wise wasted in your garden, a gift of good health.

That's it from me for this year, I have hung up the tools, our tree is ready and waiting for the break of dawn patter of tiny feet on Christmas morning and not one of them will need to hunt for Nana in the garden. 

I wish everyone a very merry Christmas and all the very best for 2016.

Cheers Linda.

Well, last week should have been all about weeding, cutting back, cutting box hedges and planting but all came to a halt last Wednesday when I needed to be at the bedside of my little Grandson in Ch Ch Hospital. Returning home this Wednesday for a brief catch up on things before returning to Ch Ch.

The weeds are starting to mature and make seeds, get them out before they do, and most are easy to pull when they have grown a bit. I am still battling with biddy bid and convolvulus. Spray convolvulus where you can, round up will destroy so far back along roots, but not all the way so just keep zapping it as it pops up. When it grows up through plants I untangle back to the root and direct the regrowth away from the plant.

Divided clumps of violas because they have finished flowering now; I just dig up part of a large clump and pull it to bits basically. You can gently pull masses of new young plants out of the clump and plant them out separately in a cool shady part of the garden. they will soon form their own small cluster which can be planted out next year to flower where you want them.The same for pollyanthas and primulas, break up clumps; plant out only fresh new growth and throw away knotted old spent growth.

There is still time to divide agapanthus, large and dwarf varieties. they can get a bit clump bound which reduces their flowering.

Dig out the whole clump (if it is still manageable enough to do this), then pull off smaller root balls and plant out on their own using fresh compost to get the roots going again. Agapanthus are great gap fillers in new gardens, they can always be removed as you fill your garden with permanent plants.

If you have some aged compost that has finished working and is ready to put on your garden you will be able to make some economical compost tea.

Compost Tea is a nutritionally rich, well-balanced, organic plant food made by steeping aged compost in water. The water is then diluted and used as a root and/or foliar feed. It is also noted for its ability to control various plant diseases (blights, molds, wilts, etc. when used as a foliar spray), to repel and control insect pests and their damage when used on a regular basis, and to encourage the growth of beneficial soil bacteria which results in healthier, more stress-tolerant plants. The basic recipe most often recommended is as follows:

1 large container with lid (plastic rubbish bin works well) enough aged, completed compost to fill an old pillow case 1/2-3/4 full. Fill the container with water, place the compost into the pillowcase (cheese cloth bag or pantyhose also work well), tie off the top and submerge in the container of water. Cover (to prevent odor and insect problems) and let steep for a MINIMUM of 2 weeks. This steeping time is crucial to the formation of beneficial bacteria and the required fermentation process. When finished, dip out the tea and dilute it (3 parts water to 1 part tea) and use as root food for any and all plants on a weekly or as-needed basis.

To use as a foliar spray or on young seedlings dilute it a little more. The remaining tea can continue to steep until needed. The following factors will determine the quality of the finished tea: Use well-aged, finished compost - Fresh compost can burn the plants or contain harmful pathogens and compost past its best will be nutritionally deficient. The contents of the compost should be balanced. If using purchased compost it should contain a portion of aged animal manure which apparently remains active longer than compost made up only of plant matter.

(It is important to note that COMPOST TEA AND MANURE TEA ARE NOT THE SAME THING. Manure tea can be made in the same way but is not generally recommended as foliar spray and is not as nutritionally well-balanced.) Never apply as a foliar spray in the heat of the day but apply to the roots any time.

Next week I will write about companion planting in the vegetable garden.

Veg: Keep the water up and continue planting out. Mound potatoes and remember early potatoes can be dug when flowering but late session potatoes are left until all green tops have died down.

Fruit: Watering is most important now during hot weather.
Cheers, Linda.

Cheers, Linda