Gardening in North Otago June 1st 2016

June already, with the shortest day just around the corner and snow on the  Kakanuis I am once again wearing thermals, gloves and woolly socks as leaves still fall and temperatures drop into winter. The rain last week was fantastic for dry North Otago and ground should remain damp now to boost spring growth slowly pushing through. Pea straw is still going on here to help retain that ground moisture.

Keep tiding up perennials that need to rest now, divide overgrown plants and plant rooted cuttings from the outer edges of perennial clumps, if you think the mother plant is past it's best dispose of it. 

Keep planting or shifting lilium bulbs, they should never become dry and are best planted in raised well drained gardens, as are early plantings of gladioli for November flowering. 

I see early roses on offer, the sooner they are out of plastic bags and in chilly air the better. The warmth of the packaging will have encouraged new shoots which will drop off as stems harden in cold air. Newly planted roses need pruned to out facing buds, bare rooted roses on sale are field grown and are all mass trimmed before lifting.

Root cuttings: If you've ever had problems propagating some of your favorite plants, Root cutting is worth trying to produce many perennial and woody plants, it is a straight forward process best done during the plant's dormant season between June and September.

Carefully remove dirt around the roots on one side of the plant, dig fairly close to the base of the plant to make sure you find healthy roots pencil thick belonging to the plant you are working on, take 2 to 6 inch cuttings and cut into 2 to 3 inch (6 to 7.5 cm) sections. 

To keep track of the cuttings top end and bottom end is to make a flat cut on top side, and a slanted cut on the bottom side. 

Plant in a deep pot, (frost free) with a little sand in the bottom of the planting hole, dust the bottom of each cutting with powdered sulfur to control fungi. Make sure that the tops of the cuttings are about 1 inch (2.5 cm) below the soil and cover with a layer of  coarse river sand or small gravel, water only when soil becomes dry.

For Perennial Plants.
It is usually easier to lift the entire parent plant, look for large fleshy roots, the thicker the better.Take 2 to 3 inch (5 to 7.5 cm) cuttings the same way as above, then replant the parent plant and water in. In three to four weeks your cuttings should be forming roots, and some even may start to push through new growth,when new shoots appear give them some liquid fertilizer at half strength.
List of Plants suitable for Root Cuttings.
Figs, Hydrangeas, Choysia, Poplar, Red and yellow twig dogwoods, old roses (non grafted), viburnum Snowball bush, Weeping willow, Yucca, Aster, Bear’s breeches, tall phlox's, geranium, globe thistle, hollyhocks, horseradish, aster, Oriental poppies,Primrose, Rhubarb, Sage, Sea hollies, perennial statice, Raspberry and Blackberry.

Lawns; Growth should have slowed right down now, if you noticed your lawn was hard and cracked during the dry summer spread gypsum during rain or water in to soften and turn clay content into soil. 

Vegetable On the coast Sow broad beans, garlic, shallots and rhubarb. Colder areas nothing much can be planted

Gardening in North Otago May 25th 2016

End of mellow May lands us into a new month bringing different gardening challenges with the start of winters chills.

I have had a busy Nana time in the past week and now need to play catch up in getting the garden ready for winter.

The ground should stay damp now but with if winds persist keep the water up and soak rhododendrons, azaleas, camellias and hydrangeas as they are the shrubs that suffer most during a dry spell, Keep a eye on maples as well, if leaves shriveled too quickly during colour change it's an indication of root dryness give these a good soak as well.

Rose flowering is coming to an end but don't cut spent flower heads off, leave all types of roses to make seed and harden wood before the big prune next month. Have some lime sulphur on hand for a clean up spray after pruning, or before if timing is better, (lime sulpher will hasten leaf drop.) use on all rose bushes and climbers as well as the ground where they are growing to kill all fungus and disease remaining from summer flowering. Lime sulphur smells like rotten eggs when first applied, is safe for bees and is also the spray to use for the removal of lichen and moss growing on branches of trees and shrubs.

New seasons bare rooted roses should be arriving in Garden centers soon so if you plan to plant a certain type of rose or shades ask a Garden center to hold them for you so you don't miss out. Prepare ground now by digging in old stable manure or bagged rose mix. If planting a rose in the same place a rose has been growing, you will need to remove the soil and replace with soil from another part of the garden, disease is transferred very quickly from one rose to another. Bare rooted, winter planted roses are less likely to suffer from planting stress.

Re-pot container grown buxus  if they look pot bound, buxus  root growth is prolific and they don't seem to suffer from the removal of half the root ball, replace potting mix with new. 

Winter colour in pots, plant polyanthus, pansies, primulas and snapdragons, a few poly's in a pot is all that's needed to brighten up any doorway. 

Lawns; The recent rains perked dry lawns up but growth should be slowing right down now bringing  lawns to that tuffty stage, here in this garden lawn mowers will still be on the go until the last of the leaves have been picked up. Next time it rains have some lawn fertiliser on hand and a week after feeding sprinkle some garden lime over lawns for a boost before they stop growing. Keep in mind for next growing season, lawn grasses grow best on a nutrient ratio of 3 parts nitrogen, 1 part phosphorus, and 2 parts of potassium. (12-4-8). While this is an ideal ratio you may not be able to find the exact ratio in a lawn fertilizer, a close match will do.  If ground pH is below 6 on the pH scale lime will make a marked improvement in growing conditions come spring.One sign of a low soil pH is the presence of excess moss and weeds in your garden or lawn. Moss and weeds are acid loving plants, though not a guaranteed indicator, an excess of moss and weeds is a good sign that you should raise soil pH. Another sign that you need to raise soil pH is when fertilizer doesn’t seem to be doing its job. Acidic soil prevents fertilizer from functioning properly, so no matter how much fertilizer you apply, you will see little to no results.

Vegetables:  On the coast Sow broad beans, garlic, shallots and rhubarb. Colder areas nothing much can be planted without protection.

Fruit:  Bare rooted fruit trees will be arriving in garden centers soon, ask if they will be stocking required trees and have them put aside on arrival.

Ground can be prepared now for planting, choose an open, sunny position, sheltered from strong winds. Fruit trees will grow in a wide range of soil types as long as there is good drainage.

Plums and pear root stock tolerate heavier soils than most other fruit trees. Using good quality compost will improve water retention in lighter soils and improve drainage in heavier soils as well as improving fertility. Pruning of newly planted fruit trees will not take place until trees have branched. During early stages of tree development, the main goal is to develop the shape and framework which will support the heavy crops of fruit. 

Pruning: 

Apple: After initial shaping of apple trees, the only pruning necessary is the removal of excess twiggy growth. Apple trees usually produce fruit on spurs, (short stubby growths attached to main branches). They continue producing on the same spurs for a number of years. Pears and cherry fruit also grow on spurs and require similar treatment. 

Apricot: Prune apricot trees in late winter or early spring as the new leaves and flowers begin to open. During this period of time the tree is actively growing and the pruning cuts heal quickly. Newly planted apricot can be pruned soon after planting. Remove all damaged or broken shoots and limbs and all branches with a narrow crotch (those that grow up more than out) and all branches that are within 18 inches of the ground, Shorten last year’s main branches to about 30 inches.

Peach and nectarine: These trees flower on new wood made the previous summer,  prune hard to encourage new growth otherwise, fruit will be produced further and further out on the branches each year. Flower buds are plump while growth buds are flatter.

Plum: Plum trees produce fruit on the same spurs for several years. Once shape has been established, they require little pruning because excessive pruning can over stimulate tree growth at the expense of fruit. Remove vertical branching and water sprouts regularly. Look at a tree and it is easy to distinguish the water sprouts from the regular growth they grow straight up from the canopy branches and trunk and are thin and scraggly in appearance. A heavy hand when pruning may increase the number of water sprouts on the tree. When pruning plum trees in the winter only remove 20 percent of the growth from the previous year.

Cheers, Linda. 

Gardening in North Otago May 17th 2016

"What a difference a rain makes" late Monday it came and more than the usual skiff and on Tuesday morn our garden had a whole different look.
A heap of work was done here in the garden this week, my ready compost went down fast as autumn leaves and annual weeds were removed it got shoveled on thickly over beds ready a layer of pea straw.

I have been potting up well grown seedlings before the nights get colder, because they are straight from seed trays the frost cloth has gone on and will remain on until spring.

remove water trays from pots now, the soil will stay damp from now on and should never be waterlogged through out winter as this will lead to plant roots freezing and rotting.

This is a great time to make new perennial beds or re-organise existing beds, with perennial clumps increasing in size annually they soon over fill a space. Lift overgrown clumps, break up and replant some of the youngest growths from the perimeter. Healthy vigorous plants can be reduced by putting a sharp spade in where you would like a reduction then lift the cut portion out without disturbing the plant remaining. I have been doing this with asters, phlox, aurbretia, small grass's, hosta's, and herbs like sage, thyme and lemon balm. Rockery plants can be divided now as well. Once plants have been sectioned and rearranged cover the bed and around plants with compost which will encourage new root growth and help to keep perennial beds warmer through the colder months.

All old leaves from my hellebores have now been removed, they are budding up for a winter display so a fortnightly liquid feed can be given now if you feel they need boosting. Further in land it would be advisable to leave some top growth on to give frost protection to soft new growth, once hardened remove all leaves to display flowers.

Lilies, this is the main time to shift or divide old over grown clumps of lilies. Be careful not to break the fleshy scales and to retain all the basal roots. Don't pull the old steams away from the bulb as it leaves a hole where water can enter and cause rot, just cut old stems short and bend. Never allow Lilly bulbs to dry out while out of the ground, I plant lilies on a little river sand and cover with compost which has had blood and bone added.

Vegetables and fruit .
Continue planting strawberry plants, raising the beds where drainage is suspect and adding manure rich compost to the beds.
Garlic planting time, It is said to plant garlic on the shortest day but any time from late May until August is ok. Select large single cloves (plant point up) 5cm deep and 20cm apart in warm, well-drained sites where soil has been recently limed.
Having been such a good ripening season apples are dripping from trees, it is best to pick apples for storing when not too ripe and store in a cool dark place
Start pruning pip fruit trees any time after the leaves have fallen, remove dead or damaged wood, crossing or inward turning branches, excess leaders or sucker growth developing on the main trunks. Shorten back vigorous leaders by about a 1/3 to promote branching. Prune long side branches back to a weak twig to discourage further spread.

Cheers, Linda

Gardening in North Otago May 12th 2016

A little rain last week but North Otago is still,  parched!  I spent time in Wanaka with family last weekend and the drive over and back was a visual treat, the Waitaki valley is a blaze  with Autumn colour.  Poplars had lost most leaves and the gold of the willows and birches had taken over turning even a dull day bright. I dug out a mass planting of bedding blue salvia  replacing with dozens of red tulip bulbs  stored from each year.  The saliva had taken a lot out of the soil so beds were dug and topped with compost and sifted soil along with a sprinkle of blood and bone before the tulips went in. Blue forgetmenot is coming on to plant along side the tulips for a spring display.  Pansy's, pollyanthus, primula and snapdragons filling out nicely for planting once gardens are cleared of the summer colour still flowering well because of the lovely warm days experienced.  Wisterias will need a cut back now, ours is growing along the upstairs balcony threatening to push through the sliding doors and take over the bedroom! I use the hedge trimmer to get rid of all the leafy wispy growth, cutting too hard back into  thick wood will remove new buds. Each long winding growth can eventually grow into a thick branch so if training a young plant let only one length go either way along a structure. I needed to be given that advice when planting the now multi branched extremely heavy wisteria we now have!   Seeds:I am still collecting seeds while pods are dry and saving them in paper bags and envelopes, I read that adding a sprinkle of rice will absorb any remaining moisture and help to keep seed dry and in good condition, worth a try. Compost again,  Balance all those leaves with layers of old compost/soil, straw, manure and grass clippings . Moisture is a must as well, if mix is dry add water during the heat of a day so the chill will be off before nights cooling. Decomposing will continue on until temperatures drops dramatically.  Fruit:  Tamarillos These delicious, tangy fruits ripen in autumn and winter and can go from pale green to rich ripe red in about a week. They are ripe when either a deep, dark red or golden orange/yellow depending on variety. Pick fruit individually by cutting stems. Once picked they keep well and will become sweeter after a week or so.   Citrus bushes would benefit from a rich layer of compost,  well-rotted manure, dolomite, seaweed, straw – whatever you have spread as a mulching layer around roots. Vegetables: Save seed from beans and peas and also a few of your herb and companion flower plant seeds for next spring.  Mold soil around the base of leeks to keep them pale and sweet, but keep it beneath the bottom leaf so it doesn't get inside the stems and make cleaning them difficult.  An application of lime now is a real benefit to many of the leaf crops – cabbage, spinach, kale, broccoli and silverbeet. In soon to be very cold areas  an insulating layer will help to prevent soil you plan to plant out in early spring from becoming water-logged once rains do come, use polythene, fertilizers bags, old carpet or underlay. Spring planting can be delayed for ages because of wet cold ground. Cheers, Linda. Click here to Reply or Forward 9.42 GB (62%) of 15 GB used Manage Terms - Privacy Last account activity: 3 hours ago Details

Gardening in North Otago May 4th 2016

The year is marching on! and May is the official beginning of winter for NZ but for me June is the start of winter because in my mind May is all about leaves and more beautiful leaves as we are dealing with right now. Leaves are natures soil food they fall to the ground creating humus but leaves falling around a garden and on lawns are usually raked up, this is why it is so important to add compost to gardens and lawns to put humus back. 

This week has been about getting water onto gardens because the ground is so seriously dry! and plants are showing signs of suffering. Shallow rooted plants like Hydrangeas, rhododendrons, camellias, roses and many ground covers have needed a good soak before compost can be added. Keep the water up to maples as well, they tend to die off in stages if ground stays continually dry, I lost three good sized maples growing on a slope after the very dry autumn & winter we experienced last year. 

I am adding to my compost daily layering with leaves, grass clippings, soft garden and hedge clippings, manure and established compost. Cold weather has a marked slowing down effect on compost organisms and any insulation wrapped around a bin will help them keep working, I do this on my heaps with a thick layer of straw. I do go on about compost don't I?

The cut back is still going on in my gardens and the compost / mulch is going on to provide food for the plants when they need it and also helps to keep the soil a little warmer for plant roots over winter. Once every plant, shrub and tree has been mulched and watered and leaves raked off gardens the pea straw will go on.

Keep planting tulips until the end of this month, plant them deep (10cm) because they like it cool, Tulips need a real chilling before they can perform well, If planting in a warm north facing garden planting needs to be deeper, around 15cm.  if you have a special tulips you would like to multiply plant them against a south facing wall and forget about them they will grow and multiply there for years. Also keep planting and dividing Lilly's keeping them damp at all times, there should be a good range of lillys in garden centres,

 Deciduous trees and shrubs will come into Garden centers at the end of June / July so look about gardens now and take note of the trees and shrubs that colour up beautifully, take a photo of what you admire and ask someone who knows about trees to identify. Now would be a good time to plan what you would like and where it would enhance the garden being an already established garden or the bones for a new garden, remembering to allow room to grow both up and outwards. If we do get rain soon to soften the ground it would be a good idea to dig the area in readiness. Dig out the soil add peat or compost and blood and bone to it then fill back in again until you are ready to plant. If you know which deciduous trees and shrubs you require order them now from the garden centre and you will not miss out.

Hydrangeas are deepening into rich shades as gardens head towards winter, l like to leave this colour for as long as it takes for them to look faded and untidy, this also gives stems time to harden off and once hardened off they can be shifted if needed. Really large bushes can be dug up and root cut or pulled into several individual bushes. In cold districts don't prune back until spring, leave the tops on to protect the new growth. I leave on until I notice new leaf buds opening then cut each stem with a flower head back to the second bud from the bottom leaving all stems that did not flower,

A start can be made on pruning very strong rambler roses by cutting out any dead stems and cutting back all side stems on canes to with in 2-3 buds from the main steam. Shorten back vigorous leaders by about 1/3 to promote branching. If the bush is out of control like some of mine reduce the size with a hedge trimmer then cut some canes right out from ground level.

Veg:
If worms are rare in your garden, this usually indicates that the organic content of the soil is very low, worms seem to always find manure but it needs to be spread as a layer low down under a soil bed for them to come up to it. This would be a daunting task to undertake in established gardens, although worth digging into trenched rows as veg is used, defiantly the way to go when establishing a new veg area where soil is dry and has clay content, the introduction of worms will make all the difference.
Fruit:
Continue planting strawberries, raising the beds where drainage is suspect, At the beginning of the past growing season I covered half my strawberry bed with polythene as commercial growers do and planted out with new runner plants pushed into slits cut in the polythene. They fruited quite well and weeds were not a problem but tended to dry out quicker than the other half which were planted with out polythene (among the weeds). I guess drip irrigation should be in place to get best results. Will cut back runners and trim old leaves then build up the bed with compost and leave to winter over.

Walnuts are dropping here daily, our tree provides very big nuts which need to be picked up every day because they are the favourite food of rats.They mostly fall in a green casing which comes off easily with the roll of the foot in a firm shoe. They then need to dry in the sun to stop mold and once really dry can be stored.

Gardening in North Otago April 27/ 5/ 2016

How colourful our town is right now, as if nature had been saving up all year for the grand finale using the brilliance of the ash, oak, maple and all other trees and shrubs that become fire then dance their leaves into the wind. The splendor is over all too soon with the raking up taking us into the winter, each full wool pack is getting to the end of them and the compost heaps are filling well. 

Once deciduous trees have lost their leaves we can view the shape, if any are in need of a prune you will need to know the right time to tackle a particular tree.  

Prunus (flowering cherry) 

The height of summer is the time to prune these be they flowering cherries, fruiting cherries, plums, peaches, nectarines, apricots or almonds to avoid the dreaded silver leaf infection. Naturally wait until they have finished fruiting where possible.

Oak, Elm, Ash: prune Late summer, autumn or winter. Birch and maple: can be pruned in spring, but be prepared for clear sap bleeding. Waiting until late spring when they have a full set of leaves is recommended. Ginkgo Prune in winter. Sorbus: (rowan) Prune Late autumn / winter.   Magnolias: prune, only if needed right after flowers have finished. Apples and pears: prune in winter.

The overall look of an established garden can be changed by having a clean out, don't be sentimental about a tree out grown it's spot or in the wrong place, If it was not planted by you or just arrived in your garden odds are that the birds planted it! Clear those rouge trees out or transplant them to a spot where they are able to grow full size with out becoming a nuisance. 

This week as well as raking leaves I have been re potting some pots that have been full of summer colour but were now looking very tired, some I will fill with succulents because I noticed that a lot of my succulents have flowered and become stalky which means that it is time to forgo the Mother plant and plant out her Babies. Each rosette on the end of a stalk can be broken off with a little part of the stem and pushed into river sand and soil, each one will develop roots and become a Mother plant, baby succulents look great in pots over the Winter months. Fill a pot or push in around the edges of a pot planted out in Hyacinths or dwarf Spring bulbs. There are so many different succulents, in shades of red, orange, silver and fresh green. If you have exhausted clumps in the garden break them up, toss out the dodgy ones and replant the fresher.  

Dahlia tubers can be divided , a division needs a tuber and an eye, the eyes are located on the neck of a tuber clump near a cut stalk, an eye resembles a potato eye ( a small swelling) cut with a clean sharp knife, you may get three divisions from one tuber clump, name and store in slightly damp river sand or damp sawdust in a cardboard box and leave in a cool, dry, dark place. Label and plant out again in late spring. Most of my dahlias are still growing well so I will keep dead heading until they collapse from frost, then will cut back and covered with pea straw. Cut tops can be left on top to protect tubers if straw is not available but if you have dahlia tubers in ground that could be flooded and stay wet they will probably rot, gently lift, hose off dirt and store as above.

May is the last Month to plant Tulips to have them doing their thing when they should, Tulips seem to take a long time to come into flower, unlike a lot of other Spring bulbs already starting to make an appearance but tulips are so worth having in a spring garden.

Two plants you can dig a trench for then fill with manure are sweetpeas and clematis, to reach the desired height they need a lot of rich food and a sweet soil so some lime for these as well. I have sweet peas well through after planting them in March, they should start flowering in late August. Sweet peas planted now will come up and grow slowly over winter and then really take off in early spring.

Keep taking rose cuttings, choose a straight stem and cut off about 12 inches from the top just below a leaf node. Pull off the leaves along the stem two half leaves can be left at the top. Soaking in willow water for a couple of weeks is said to introduce hormone for rooting into the cuttings. Dig a spade into damp ground, make a slit in the soil and bury cuttings about six inches down into this wedge and firm the soil around cuttings, name, water in and they should make roots in the spring to support new growth.When you see they are growing on their own roots uproot them carefully and plant into pots to grow them on. You can use this method for many shrubs, like ceonothus, geraniums, potentilla, euonymous, hebes, weigela and even abutilon. Just make sure you pick a healthy straight stem. Use rooting hormone powders / gels to dip cuttings in before planting will help cuttings to take root as well as the willow water method. 

Lawns have slowed down at last, lime and gypsum as well as a dressing of fine compost can be spread on lawns now, lime to sweeten, compost to add humus and gypsum to soften hard compacted ground containing clay / soil. After two or three years in a row of applying gypsum at this time of the year there will be no more cracks appearing in lawns during dry spells. 

Vegetables: 

Growing carrots without a problem or two is not always easy, the ground needs to still hold a little heat for them to germinate and continue to grow, if they stop and then start growing again the regrowth ends up as a hard core and the carrot stops growing down into the soil. Carrot fly is also a problem which also attacks celery, dill, fennel, parsley and parsnip. The pest overwinters as pupae in the soil or in old host plant roots which have been left in the ground. The adult flies are long and black with yellow legs and iridescent wings. Females find plants by smell, mostly in the evenings they lay eggs in soil cracks adjacent to plants. Avoid thinning in late afternoon and remove all thinning's as the female is attracted to smell and damaged plants. Plant carrots in a different spot each year and Companion panting can help side track the carrot fly. Gardeners have found early crops sown in September or October usually mature before the fly is on the wing, but it is a handy, I feel to have a carrot or two in the garden when needed. The carrot rust fly season is marked by distinct flights, starting in September/October going through to May. Companion plants for carrots are lettuce, onions and tomatoes ( in summer). never plant dill or parsnips beside carrots. Parsnips planted in late December will be being dug now, they are known not to be successful grown in dry summer ground but if you managed to get them to mature, now that the ground is getting cooler they will sit in the soil for as long as needed without going to seed. 

Cheers, Linda

Gardening in North Otago April 21st 2016

Lovely autumn days over the last week, with leaf colours becoming more stunning by the day and a very noticeable drop in temperature morning and night. 

Wee ones keep me busy over the School holidays so I saved the outdoor painting touch ups for little hands and painting shirts....both get covered! Paint work fades and blisters over the summer so I like to touch up seating and pots to protect over the harsh winter. This season it is burnt orange and dark plumb/purple popping up around the garden, when I get a paint brush in my hand I have to force myself to STOP!!!

If shrubs and climbers need cut back it needs to be done now while there is still time for things to recover, harden off and bud up again before June. 

Peony roses: If you are planning to move a peony the best time is now in the autumn when the plant is nearing or in dormancy. Peonies start to go dormant when the foliage is rapidly losing colour.  Cool soil temperatures allow peonies to start growing a new root system quickly before the ground freezes. The site should be sunny and well drained, deep fertile soil is best but they can still do ok in quite poor soils as long as they never become water logged (especially over winter). Planting depth is important, too deep means they will spend time pushing up to the right depth, find the uppermost bud on the crown and plant so that the base of the bud is 5 cm (2") from the soil surface. Don't expect much growth in the first year, if you do get flowers in late spring leave on the plant because stems don't regrow during the season. Leaf die back adds strength to the tuba so foliage needs to be left on then cut down to ground level in autumn and disposed of which may help prevent carry-over of fungal infections like bytritis.Don't cut down tree peonies, the stem above the ground remains alive - only remove diseased leaves and leave pruning out dead wood until spring.

Hellebores will benefit from fortnightly feeding now to encourage better blooms. I have been removing the old foliage from mine, but in colder areas it is best to leave some top growth on to protect the new growth.  The flowers will soon shoot up past the old leaves. Cut all old leaves off and destroy because green fly seem to winter over on the underside of hellebore leaves. 

Only feed bulbs and plants that are due to flower now, all other plants will be slowing their growth right down to sleep through the winter.  Move all spring flowering plants in pots into a sunny spot now, plants like camellia, azaleas and rhododendrons that have been tucked away in a shady spot over the hot months. Shrubs in pots get root bound and hungry, If you fed them when they finished flowering, they should be fine. If not then give them a little fertiliser and water in well to give them a boost.  Seedlings and rooted cuttings need as much sun as they can get over the colder months, they may not look as though they are growing as they will not put out any new growth on top but with the warmth of the sun on the pots they will be making lots of feeder roots. I shifted all my potted seedlings from semi shade where they have been over the hot months to a sunny spot where they should do well through the winter months. 

Keep layering leaves on the compost along with animal manure, soft garden green, hedge trimmings and un-sprayed grass clippings along with left over compost from your last lot. Give the heaps a good watering from time to time to get things started. With the very warm days we have had compost heaps should be building up heat now which will remain working through the cold months.

There is still time on the coast to divide border plants, perennials and rock plants, they will make new roots before before growth stops.  In very cold districts leave the dead top growth on, safer to remove in spring but If you are strawing your gardens this will do the same job. 

This is the best time to shift small evergreen shrubs and conifers, as long as the root ball is not to well spread they should transplant well. Rhododendrons, camellias and azaleas can be shifted now as well. 

Lawns have really picked up since the nights have cooled, our lawns were spot sprayed last week, there was quite a lot of clover and flat weeds spreading, I only spot spray where needed because I would hate to kill hard working worms. The grass grub damaged areas raked out and resown here have new grass now, thankfully germination of grass seed is very fast while the ground is still warm. Next time we get rain I plan to spread gypsum and fine compost around the lawns to soften and add humus. 

Vegetables I planted broad beans and carrots this week and have had to have the hose out again to give the veg garden a good soak, let’s hope we get the rain that was promised Remove shading from glass houses now and reduce the watering,more light, less watering for pot plants inside as well. Leeks should be available now for planting, they are planted laying down in a trench that will hold water to get them going, then they sit up and grow fast. Fruit If you have apple trees laden, pick most of them unripe and store them a cool dry place for later. But leave as many as you intend to eat on the tree to ripen naturally, nothing nicer than ripe fruit straight from the tree. We are still picking those delicious late peaches It's grape picking time for me again while it is still dry, not such an abundant crop this year but enough to make into a few special bottles of wine....... or vinegar !!! which could be turned into Homemade Weed Killer, 1 gallon of white vinegar, 1/2 cup salt, dish detergent (any brand), Empty spray bottle. Put salt in the empty spray bottle and fill it the rest of the way up with white vinegar. Add a squirt of dish detergent. This solution works best if you use it on a hot day. Spray it on the weeds in the morning, and as it heats up it will do its work. So how ever bad the wine turns out there will be no waste. 

Cheers, Linda.