Gardening in Waitaki August 10th 2022

Each day I am noticing hints of the coming spring everywhere, buds of magnolias, rhododendrons, and camellias are bursting open while blue bells,iris, crocus and tulips are up to join the already flowering snowdrops, daffodils and jonquils and of cause the early plum blossom, what a treat to witness the new growing seasons early beginnings.   Keep an eye out for flowering camellias and rhododendrons now in the garden centers, most are showing buds and flowers, this is the time to choose the right shades for your garden, they thrive in semi shade or afternoon shaded areas of the garden.Now is the perfect time to sow seeds undercover, the seeds I planted three weeks ago and have had under plastic are up. Any seeds that say spring sowing on the back of the packet will pop up as days get longer. I use a tray of compost / soil with a layer of seed raising mix on the top.This way your seed raising mix goes further. Once planted cover the trays with plastic or glass, but use spacers to let air circulate between the plastic / glass  and tray.Lavenders can have a cut back now, I see them starting to put out new growth, really old woody bushes can have wood cut back by half to encourage new lower growth. If a lavender bush has not done well for a couple of  years it is probably time to replace it. Newly planted lavenders just need a light clip during spring, sprinkle now with a little lime because lavenders like sweet soil. Shrubs encroaching on drive and walkways can be trimmed back , they will soon recover with new spring growth. Also reduce the height on some of taller shrubs if needed like phebalium, pittosporums and pseudopanax. You can do this without spoiling the shape by cutting out the center leader down to where the other branches bush out, this removes the natural point at the top of the shrub and will sometimes reduce the height by 2 or more meters.  New leaders will be sent up over time  but more growth will be put into the side branching which can be trimmed into shape if becoming a problem. Further inland leave this until spring. A lot of climbers are in bud now ready to do their thing in Spring so if trimming watch you are not cutting off new buds. Hardenbergia ( happy wanderer) flowers in early winter so that is one that can be cut back. Jasmines may have been knocked by the cold, leave them a bit longer until you are sure the frosts are over before trimming them.  If you have still not fed your roses do it as soon as possible, rose roots are moving fast now to push out buds. If you have no time to do anything else in the garden now feeding plants is a must for health and vigour to take them right through to the next autumn, It is well worth the effort and will minimize the spaying needed for unhealthy plants. Slow release fertilisers are a safe bet for continual feeding over a long period, they are very clean and easy to apply and nowadays formulated to feed specific plants.Now would be a good time to mention plants that resent being fed. Many South African plants and Australian natives such as proteas, leucadendrons, banksias, and all grevillia's do not need feeding. I have lost some of these because they had absorbed fertilizer from neighbouring plants. There is still time to divide hostas, these dramatic shade loving perennials can really highlight a shaded spot with their fresh greens and variegated light shades. Simply lift established clumps at least 4 to 5 years old, use a sharp spade to slice them into a few good sized pieces, then replant. They also look great in pots but, slugs love them so pop some prickly shrub clippings around them as soon as they start showing leaf.  Fruit and Vegatables This is the time to give fruiting shrubs and trees a dressing of potash to help with fruiting.  If you plan to grow vegetables this year, get the garden ready now, fork in some weed free compost and let the soil settle again. In area's you will not be planting out for a while, why not sow a green crop to add humus to tired soils, mustard, lupine, barley, oats or wheat.These will sprout in no time here on the coast when the ground is warm enough. Further inland when you notice weeds growing you should get a strike. If you do fill vacant areas with green crops, dig in when lush, soft and green. Don't let a crop get to the flowering stalky stage, it takes too long to break down. Deciduous fruit trees should be planted in August at the latest and everything in the way of small fruit, all require a sunny situation to fruit well and ripen. Now is a good time to shift citrus trees. Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in Waitaki August 3rd 2022

A full perennial garden

The first week of  August and I am in Christchurch enjoying a Nana stint, it was very wet when I arrived last week but today Tuesday is as mild as any spring or summer day. I can almost sense plants and bulbs wondering, What next, grow or continue with dormancy?? Sunny days with a warm breeze will soon help to dry waterlogged soil after all that rain last week. It is probably a good time to notice where gardens and lawns are retaining water when other areas are recovering well. If plant roots sit in water too long, they will drown. Have a dig around shrubs you are worried about to drain water away by creating low lying channels away from the root area. Where a plant can be lifted gravel / stones at the bottom of the planting hole will help with drainage in the future. During those long wet days I caught up with garden designing for Clients wanting ideas in place for spring. It's time to think about spring and what you would like happening in your garden. In my past big garden I would be dividing, shifting and planting delphiniums, dahlias, daylilies and clumping perennials into sunnier positions away from trees casting summer shade. My long and very wide herbaceous borders had trees becoming taller and wider with each year growing up the length of each border casting shade over plants that once grew in the sun. Shade loving plants needed to be considered as shade became denser and in wide borders I like perennials planted in numbers of the same plant for impact. Here are a few suggestions. Back border Tall, Ligularia, Astilbe, Soloman seal, Bleeding Heart (Dicentra), Foxglove, smilacina racemosa, Monkshood (Aconitum) Aruncus dioicus (Goat's Beard) Medium height: Spigelia marilandica, astrantia, hosters, euphorbia, Heuchera. Low height:  Pulmonaria, Trillium, Alchemilla mollis (Ladies mantle) hellebores (winter rose) If something works well in a garden bed why not fill with drifts of the same plant to make a colourful impact, this way of planting fills space allowing no room for weeds. Old wood can be cut out of weigela and spirea bushes, you can tell which branches they are because the wood looks old and spent compared to the new fresh wood, prickly berberis can be trimmed top and sides, buddleias should be cut well down to encourage soft silver branching and catmint can now have all old growth clipped off. Roses should have been pruned by the end of this month, they look for food long before they start budding. Remove all prunnings and old rose leaves from around the root area then mulch with a manure enriched compost or feed with rose food or blood and bone. I see a good selection of new roses on offer in retail outlets. Vegetables and fruit Vegetable gardens will be drying after the warmth and wind this week, it is time to prepare for sowing growing again. Seeds should germinate once sown into seed trays and placed in a warm well lit place,  once up and pricked out into punnets they can be given cooler conditions to start hardening off ready to be planted out closer to spring. Seed potatoes will be sprouting in a dark dry place to be ready for an early planting. Fruit Trees are still available in Garden Centres, I have mentioned dwarf peach and nectarine trees for the small garden and will now mention Ballerina apples. A very slim non branching variety of apple tree with Medium to large crisp, nice eating fruit. Hight 3-4m by 30cm wide, perfect for adding height in a small garden. A dressing of potash now around fruit trees and fruiting bushes will assist with fruiting. There is still time to get grapes pruned before sap rises, to prune remove all new long growth on the vine other than the fruiting leader, on the leaders prune each new side growth back to the second bud. These fruiting buds should be a hand space apart to ensure adequate sized fruit, this means removing some of the new bud growth along the top of the leader and all of the new bud growth growing underneath. Some of these new budding top growths will throw two lots of bud branches, remove the least stronger one leaving only one lot of double buds to produce fruit. Birds are hungry now and will be beginning to nest, with the help of (Grandies) we melted dripping and stirred in wild bird seed, while it was firming it was pressed into three balls. The Children climbed trees and pushed them into v branches for the birds to tuck into and Scruff the dog to sniff from below in the hope of some falling his way after he ate his share of the chook scraps and cat's food, very sneaky our now chubby Scruff! Cheers, Linda.

Pruning a grape.

Gardening in Waitaki August 2nd 2020

The odd heavy frost last week, even floored winter roses but they soon bounced back with a mild day following. Frozen ground makes it impossible to work in soil until later in the day so morning garden design is what I concentrate on for clients wanting ideas in place for spring planting. It's time to think about spring and what you would like happening in your garden, I have been dividing, shifting and planting delphiniums, dahlias, day Lillie's and clumping perennials into sunnier positions away from trees casting summer shade. My long and very wide herbaceous boarders have had the round headed laurel trees which were growing up the length of each boarder cut out, allowing me now to fill each boarder with spring and summer colour. Dahlias, peony roses and cosmos fill gaps well and lupins, delphiniums, fox gloves, hollyhocks and mignonette give wonderful vertical interest when grouped in wide borders. If something works well in a garden bed why not fill with drifts of the same plant to make a colourful impact, this way of planting fills space allowing no room for weeds. Use same shade roses, hydrangeas, dahlias, daisies, geraniums and poppy's, spring bulbs planted this way always give the best show rather than different varieties planted together. A few more hydrangeas have been pruned here and cuttings taken from the hardened stems that had flowered. A shaded moist area is best for bedding these down and hopefully roots will grow to feed the buds. Old wood can be cut out of wigelia and spirea bushes, you can tell which branches they are because the wood looks old and spent compared to the new fresh wood, prickly berberis can be trimmed top and sides, budleias should be cut well down to encourage soft silver branching and catmint can now have all old growth clipped off. Almost finished pruning roses here, only the flower carpet and fairy roses to go, both these varieties bush up with small non hard wood branching, large bushes can be trimmed with a hedge trimmer. If newly planted, prune back with secateurs to hard wood at an outward facing bud. Feeding and spraying roses is next, copper oxychloride and winter oil, they can be mixed and applied together, the oil helps the copper to stick, copper helps protect new growth from frosts that occur in spring. Feed with rose food, blood and bone or old stable manure. Vegetables and fruit Vegetable gardens are enjoying frosts breaking down the soil, time for sowing seeds to germinate in a warm place to be ready for planting out in a warm spring garden and seed potatoes can be sprouting in a dark dry place. Fruit Trees are still available in Garden Centres, I mentioned dwarf peach and nectarine trees for the small garden last week and will mention Ballerina apples this week. A very slim non branching variety of apple tree with Medium to large Crisp, juicy nice eating fruit. Hight 3-4m by 30cm wide perfect for adding height in a small garden. A dressing of potash now around fruit trees and fruiting bushes will assist with fruiting Still time to get grapes pruned before sap rises, to prune a fruiting leader remove all new long growth on the vine other than the fruiting leader, on the leaders prune each new side growth back to the second bud. These fruiting buds should be a hand space apart to ensure adequate sized fruit, this means removing some of the new bud growth along the top of the leader and all of the new bud growth growing underneath. Some of these new budding top growths will throw two lots of bud branch, remove the least stronger one leaving only one lot of double buds to produce fruit. Birds are hungry now and beginning to nest, with the help of Poppy and Maggie (Grandies) we melted dripping and stirred in wild bird seed, while it was firming it was pressed into three balls. The Girls climbed trees and pushed them into v branches for the birds to tuck into and Scruff the dog to sniff from below in the hope of some falling his way after he his share of the chook scraps and cat's food, very sneaky our now slightly chubby Scruff! Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in Waitaki July 26th 2022

Wet July has left us with water gardens and sodden lawns which will probably remain for the rest of this winter. August can be cold and frosty so spring is some way off yet. I planted 50 fat tulip bulbs in May but not a sign of them yet, I feel they may have rotted having been in wet soil for so long. There will be casualties with bulbs, tubers and new young plantings rotting from being in wet soil for an extended length of time.  Soil can suffer from erosion if continually wet which means minerals can be washed out leaving soil puggy. Soil consists of three main parts – clay, sand and silt – and about a billion microorganisms per tablespoon. Continual rainfall has a direct impact on the separation of soil particles and decomposition leading to soil erosion. Poor draining soil, usually containing a higher content of clay becomes compacted and once dried making it almost impossible for air, water, earthworms, microbes, roots and seedlings to move through. This can be improved over time by adding river sand / silt and a mulch of organic matter.  Because it is so wet under foot the best place to be now is in the glass house or potting shed. Tunnel and glass houses can be cleaned out and sterilised. I use a mix of one part bleach to nine parts water sprayed on all inside surfaces, then remove a generous amount of the past planting medium ( soil / potting mix) and spread manure enriched compost containing worms to work the compost in. More can be added on top when planting begins.  I have started sowing seeds for the flower and veg garden (listed as early spring sowing) to hopefully germinate in a tunnel house and be ready for pricking out at the end of next month. Regardless of this winter weather, rhododendron Christmas cheer and prunus autumnalis will be in full flower and the fragrance from winter sweet, witch hazel, Daphne, boronia and violets will be wafting about  gardens bringing some joy to gardeners. Other than all the above, keep off soil and grass, sit by the fire and plan your spring garden.

Gardening in Waitaki July 21st 2022

No doubt about what season we are in now, frost, rain, wind and more rain but the days are beginning to lengthen slowly and with increased daylight plant roots begin to stir. During the rainy days I have been planning the next stage of our new town garden, I still want trees around me and have favorites that have served us well over years but most would grow too large for this town garden. The larger growing trees I need around me will be planted in grow bags then into the ground to simi bonsai them by containing the tap roots and restricting spreading roots. Feeder roots will nourish so they will need fed and mulched to retain moisture. I will update you on my success or failure to create the leafy grove of trees I desire in my new low maintenance garden. It may look as if growth has stopped but here on the coast with some milder days there is plenty of feeding going on. Bulbs are starting to make an appearance and will benefit from a dressing of compost as will hellebore (winter roses) which are looking wonderful right now. If winter has left your garden looking a little too bleak, Garden centers will have nice potted colour to brighten things up. I have noticed on offer pansy's, wall flower, polyanthus and primula malacoides which look fresh and bright planted in groups or as a border before bulbs bloom, all these plants respond really well to dried blood sprinkled around them. Dried blood is also a good tonic for yellowing camellias and rhododendrons, mix it with camellia and rhododendron fertiliser, apply now while there is rain about, and they will reward you well come spring. Take saucers away from under tubs and planters, frozen water in saucers will freeze the roots of your plants. The last dumping of rain will have saturated foliage of tender plants like geranium and pelargonium, it would be best to put a cover of frost cloth over those planted in the garden and move potted ones under cover because frosts will not be over for a while. Roses: Mulch, mulch and more mulch. Apply a thick layer of mulch on and around your roses to keep moisture there, this also protects the root zone and enables the plant to concentrate on root movement and getting ready for the coming growing season. In early spring an application of Rose Fertiliser high in potassium which will enhance the establishment and healthy growth of roses and is the nutrient responsible for promoting large, vibrant, healthy blooms. For established roses apply 200 g (1 cup) per square metre and water in well. Apply again in mid December for an autumn flush of blooms. Mulch to retain moisture and protect roots from freezing, Un-sprayed Pea or barley straw are ideal for mulching now and when the ground begins to warm a little add compost to replace nutrients that will have been washed out by all the heavy rain. I will mention again the wonderful compost available from our meat works at Pukurie, this is weed free, easy to use and looks good on the garden. Contact Gregg on 0272293215 for a load or get it bagged from the Humber street stall. Sheep and old stable manure are also a good sauce of food for roses and new spring growth, add to your compost as well to encourage worms. Sawdust can be used on gardens that stay wet and garden pathways. The Waireka Lions manure and sawdust stall is always well stocked. Vegetable garden: To have Christmas new potatoes you need to start thinking about them from now on, all varieties are available in shops now. Potatoes have a natural dormancy from the time they are harvested to when they begin to sprout and start their next growth cycle. This can only be modified slightly by storage conditions. I set them out in a box on damp newspaper and left them in a dark place in the warmth of the house. Some leave them in a warm well lit place, whatever works for you, I go with the theory that it is very dark down in the soil where they eventually end up. FIRST EARLY VARIETIES: Cliffs Kidney, Jersey Bennes, Maris Anchor, Rocket. SECOND EARLY Ilam Hardy, Karaka, Red king. MAIN CROP: Desiree,Agria Mondial, Nadine, Pentland Dell, Red Rascal, Rua Sow vegetable seeds in trays for planting out later, cauliflower and Cabbage seedlings on offer can be planted now under cover to keep birds off. In warmer areas silverbeet and Broccoli seedlings can go in. Asparagus crowns should now be available to be planted out in a well composted bed, (no animal manure for asparagus ) Fruit: There will never be a better time to choose and plant ornamental and fruiting trees than right now! Each tree will have an informative label to tell you exactly what you will be buying with instructions on how and where to plant. All fruit trees need to grow in an open sunny position. Cheers Linda.

Winter veg protection.

Gardening in North Otago July 13th 2022

Get those convolvulus roots out.

Well we got the rain I was on about needing in the last issue, and what a rain! I am not looking forward to all the mud that will stick around for a while now. With winter kicking in now plants will know what season it is at last, spring bulbs were being encouraged to burst through on milder days now they will be busy taking up all the moisture. This is a good time to see where water is holding too long in lawns and gardens, this is usually due to heavy clay below the soil. Make a note to address when things dry out. Drainage may be needed in large areas where ground may need to be sloping away from a high point. In smaller problem areas digging down to clay then filling in with gravel / stones will create a sump for water to hold then seep away below plant roots. New builds show these problem areas up once soil has been replaced as we are finding out now while creating our new garden. Deciduous shrubs can be trimmed back now to the required width and height but wait a little longer before trimming native evergreens as, hebe's, pseudopanax and pittosporums that have outgrown the space allotted here on the coast as we will have more harsh weather ahead of us. When things dry out a bit the soft ground will be just right for digging up convolvulus roots, you will know where they are by the tell tale dead top growth. Every root needs to be removed even if they are running through the roots of shrubs and clumps of perennials, if manageable dig up and pull convolvulus roots away then replant. In one smallish patch of garden where convolvulus was growing up and smothering shrubs last summer I dug out more than one wheelbarrow full of roots, I kid you not!!, long white roots that criss crossed this patch of ground had spread through plant roots along the fence line seeming to know where they needed to be to climb. It is so satisfying to start at one end of a root and remove it without breaking right to the other end. Because I never use weed spray on the garden, digging and pulling it out is the only way to beat it.  Pruning: Understanding how something grows is helpful before pruning, does it flower on new or old wood, how mature does a fruit tree need to be to produce fruiting spurs, will a wound heal well or will it bleed like cherries and plums and if so when does it produce less sap?.There is a right time to prune any plant for it to respond beneficially for your purposes by producing new flowers, fruit, foliage or training to shape, ect. But sometimes it is best just to do it, the worst that can happen is that you will lose a season's flowering and learn a useful lesson at the same time. Hydrangeas and lavender are best left now until you see new growth.  Rose pruning: I touched on this last week so I have listed some varieties this week:Bush roses: concentrate on clearing the center of the bush, remove all inward facing branches at an outward facing bud, prune height back by two thirds always at an outward facing bud and remove any old and damaged branches. Brush old gnarly rose centers with a wire brush to stimulate and encourage new budding. Floribunda bush roses: like iceberg with a number of blooms on one stem need a few older branches taken right back each year to encourage new strong branching and newer branches taken back by two thirds. Hybrid tea roses:These are the roses that can grow a single exhibition bloom on a stem, these rose bushes can be pruned back quite hard to an outward facing bud. Standard bush roses:Same as bush roses. Climbing roses:These roses flower at their best when the branches are trained horizontally along a fence or wall, they will then develop small branches along the length to carry flowers. After a number of years a main horizontal branch will become unproductive and need to be removed, replaced with a new branch and train gently out to take it's place. The new branch will bud up quickly sending out small outward growing branches to harden off in a couple of years. To prune established horizontal branches, take the outward growing branches back to the second out facing bud closest to the main horizontal branch. Pillar roses:These are the best type to climb up and be trained over an arch or pergola. I cut the old growth back from these with a hedge trimmer Fairy rose and flower carpet roses: I also cut back with a hedge trimmer but opened them up by removing branches from the middle with secateurs.  Bare rooted trees:The bulk of new season's bare rooted deciduous trees are arriving into retail shops now,  avoid planting when the ground is frozen or excessively wet, they will hold in bags or wet sawdust until the ground is right.Evergreen trees and shrubs are on offer as well, choose now but don't be in a hurry to plant them at this coldest time of the year because you will not gain any new growth until spring. Keep in their bags or pots outside in a sheltered place to harden off, they can sit like this through winter.  Veg: Too wet to do anything other than set seed potatoes for chitting and sow seeds to germinate in a warm light place. Fruit: Plant deciduous fruit trees and bushes in a sunny site, avoid frosty hollows for early starters such as plums and pears. Prune.early to Late Spring Peach and nectarine trees to maintain an open center (only if needed) in early spring this will allow the wounds to close faster as growth begins, early spring also allows you to see how many flower buds have survived the cold weather. Cherries need summer pruning as well for the first 5 years and only on a sunny day to avoid silver leaf.  I have found If I prune an apple tree hard each winter it will make a mass of new growth but no blossom, hence no fruit. So now any tree or shrub that is growing too vigorously I wait until summer to prune hard, when leaves are fully grown, before roots start to store food for winter and cuts will heal over pushing out no new growth. This is a good rule of thumb for cordons (espaliered trees) only cut back any weak growth in winter to encourage vigorous new shoots in spring. If removing large thick branches in summer while sap is up wounds may need sealed if they bleed.  Cheers Linda.

Wet lawns can be drained to the lowest point.

Gardening in North Otago July 6th 2022

Deep root soaking means allowing water to be available to all roots of a tree or shrub.

July and some good frosts have come our way here on the coast but then very warm spring-like weather as well so we can't complain. Winter is normally the time to store away the hose but not unless we get a downpour, shallow rooted trees and shrubs will need a deep root watering if ground is dry, this should be done in the morning. For all evergreens that you notice looking a bit limp, camellias, rhododendrons, azalea's, hydrangea, lavender, Hebe. Shallow rooted perennials will let you know when water is needed, you will notice plumpness has gone from them ( but only established plants, small newly planted shrubs and trees will not have the root capacity to take up excess water. Deep root soaking is very important for established maples, dry ground puts these trees under huge stress which is shown instantly in the fine branching, clearing out dead branches from past dry damage will allow you to see if wood is looking stressed. After a soaking mulch will hold moisture from frost drawing it up, compost, pea straw, leaf mulch, old lawn clippings, any organic matter that will not blow away you have at hand is better than nothing. Dry winters are kind to bugs, check the underside of hellebores (winter rose) . They can be smothered in green fly ready to fly onto the new rose growth in spring. Rose pruning will be under way this month, if you are not sure how to go about it, concentrate on opening the middle of mature bushes. Cut out any inward growing, crossed over branches. Prune on a slant at an outward facing bud, the bud is where a new growth will emerge from so it needs to be facing away from the middle of the bush. This applies to standard roses as well. Established, trained climbing roses may need old leader branches cut right out and a younger new growth tied in its place. Don't be afraid to get stuck in and remove anything that looks past its best. All outward growth from trained long branches can be pruned back to the second outward facing bud, these buds will produce the flowers for this summer. Planting new roses: Plant to below where you see the rootstock grafted to the rose, fill the planting hole with water and let it seep away then plant with roots over a mound of soil and firm in. Standard roses will need a firm stake. Dahlias will need mulch protection if left in the ground, clumps can be dug now and reduced, dahlia tubers will hold in a dry place until planting out when frosts are over. Peonies are divided in autumn and on offer now to be planted in good draining soil, if you think there is a chance they would sit in wet soggy soil over winter they may rot, planting can continue until September. If young trees or shrubs need transplanting now is a good time to do it whilst they are at their most dormant stage. Vegetables On the coast start raising vegetable seeds in glass houses or under glass or plastic with ventilation spaces to circulate air and stop seeds going mouldy. Plant seedling plants that are now on offer along with garlic cloves. In colder areas sit back and let frosts work on the soil. Start sprouting seed potatoes, early varieties like Jersey benne, Cliffs kidney, Rocket, Ilam hardy, Maris Anchor should be sprouting now for an early planting. Fruit Look closely at the shape of your fruit trees and plan how pruning can improve them if needed. Well established Pip fruit trees will put out less unwanted growth if left until sap is back up in spring summer, but young fruit trees need shaping while branches can be seen. Cheers, Linda