Gardening in Waitaki July 26th 2022

Wet July has left us with water gardens and sodden lawns which will probably remain for the rest of this winter. August can be cold and frosty so spring is some way off yet. I planted 50 fat tulip bulbs in May but not a sign of them yet, I feel they may have rotted having been in wet soil for so long. There will be casualties with bulbs, tubers and new young plantings rotting from being in wet soil for an extended length of time.  Soil can suffer from erosion if continually wet which means minerals can be washed out leaving soil puggy. Soil consists of three main parts – clay, sand and silt – and about a billion microorganisms per tablespoon. Continual rainfall has a direct impact on the separation of soil particles and decomposition leading to soil erosion. Poor draining soil, usually containing a higher content of clay becomes compacted and once dried making it almost impossible for air, water, earthworms, microbes, roots and seedlings to move through. This can be improved over time by adding river sand / silt and a mulch of organic matter.  Because it is so wet under foot the best place to be now is in the glass house or potting shed. Tunnel and glass houses can be cleaned out and sterilised. I use a mix of one part bleach to nine parts water sprayed on all inside surfaces, then remove a generous amount of the past planting medium ( soil / potting mix) and spread manure enriched compost containing worms to work the compost in. More can be added on top when planting begins.  I have started sowing seeds for the flower and veg garden (listed as early spring sowing) to hopefully germinate in a tunnel house and be ready for pricking out at the end of next month. Regardless of this winter weather, rhododendron Christmas cheer and prunus autumnalis will be in full flower and the fragrance from winter sweet, witch hazel, Daphne, boronia and violets will be wafting about  gardens bringing some joy to gardeners. Other than all the above, keep off soil and grass, sit by the fire and plan your spring garden.

Gardening in Waitaki July 21st 2022

No doubt about what season we are in now, frost, rain, wind and more rain but the days are beginning to lengthen slowly and with increased daylight plant roots begin to stir. During the rainy days I have been planning the next stage of our new town garden, I still want trees around me and have favorites that have served us well over years but most would grow too large for this town garden. The larger growing trees I need around me will be planted in grow bags then into the ground to simi bonsai them by containing the tap roots and restricting spreading roots. Feeder roots will nourish so they will need fed and mulched to retain moisture. I will update you on my success or failure to create the leafy grove of trees I desire in my new low maintenance garden. It may look as if growth has stopped but here on the coast with some milder days there is plenty of feeding going on. Bulbs are starting to make an appearance and will benefit from a dressing of compost as will hellebore (winter roses) which are looking wonderful right now. If winter has left your garden looking a little too bleak, Garden centers will have nice potted colour to brighten things up. I have noticed on offer pansy's, wall flower, polyanthus and primula malacoides which look fresh and bright planted in groups or as a border before bulbs bloom, all these plants respond really well to dried blood sprinkled around them. Dried blood is also a good tonic for yellowing camellias and rhododendrons, mix it with camellia and rhododendron fertiliser, apply now while there is rain about, and they will reward you well come spring. Take saucers away from under tubs and planters, frozen water in saucers will freeze the roots of your plants. The last dumping of rain will have saturated foliage of tender plants like geranium and pelargonium, it would be best to put a cover of frost cloth over those planted in the garden and move potted ones under cover because frosts will not be over for a while. Roses: Mulch, mulch and more mulch. Apply a thick layer of mulch on and around your roses to keep moisture there, this also protects the root zone and enables the plant to concentrate on root movement and getting ready for the coming growing season. In early spring an application of Rose Fertiliser high in potassium which will enhance the establishment and healthy growth of roses and is the nutrient responsible for promoting large, vibrant, healthy blooms. For established roses apply 200 g (1 cup) per square metre and water in well. Apply again in mid December for an autumn flush of blooms. Mulch to retain moisture and protect roots from freezing, Un-sprayed Pea or barley straw are ideal for mulching now and when the ground begins to warm a little add compost to replace nutrients that will have been washed out by all the heavy rain. I will mention again the wonderful compost available from our meat works at Pukurie, this is weed free, easy to use and looks good on the garden. Contact Gregg on 0272293215 for a load or get it bagged from the Humber street stall. Sheep and old stable manure are also a good sauce of food for roses and new spring growth, add to your compost as well to encourage worms. Sawdust can be used on gardens that stay wet and garden pathways. The Waireka Lions manure and sawdust stall is always well stocked. Vegetable garden: To have Christmas new potatoes you need to start thinking about them from now on, all varieties are available in shops now. Potatoes have a natural dormancy from the time they are harvested to when they begin to sprout and start their next growth cycle. This can only be modified slightly by storage conditions. I set them out in a box on damp newspaper and left them in a dark place in the warmth of the house. Some leave them in a warm well lit place, whatever works for you, I go with the theory that it is very dark down in the soil where they eventually end up. FIRST EARLY VARIETIES: Cliffs Kidney, Jersey Bennes, Maris Anchor, Rocket. SECOND EARLY Ilam Hardy, Karaka, Red king. MAIN CROP: Desiree,Agria Mondial, Nadine, Pentland Dell, Red Rascal, Rua Sow vegetable seeds in trays for planting out later, cauliflower and Cabbage seedlings on offer can be planted now under cover to keep birds off. In warmer areas silverbeet and Broccoli seedlings can go in. Asparagus crowns should now be available to be planted out in a well composted bed, (no animal manure for asparagus ) Fruit: There will never be a better time to choose and plant ornamental and fruiting trees than right now! Each tree will have an informative label to tell you exactly what you will be buying with instructions on how and where to plant. All fruit trees need to grow in an open sunny position. Cheers Linda.

Winter veg protection.

Gardening in North Otago July 13th 2022

Get those convolvulus roots out.

Well we got the rain I was on about needing in the last issue, and what a rain! I am not looking forward to all the mud that will stick around for a while now. With winter kicking in now plants will know what season it is at last, spring bulbs were being encouraged to burst through on milder days now they will be busy taking up all the moisture. This is a good time to see where water is holding too long in lawns and gardens, this is usually due to heavy clay below the soil. Make a note to address when things dry out. Drainage may be needed in large areas where ground may need to be sloping away from a high point. In smaller problem areas digging down to clay then filling in with gravel / stones will create a sump for water to hold then seep away below plant roots. New builds show these problem areas up once soil has been replaced as we are finding out now while creating our new garden. Deciduous shrubs can be trimmed back now to the required width and height but wait a little longer before trimming native evergreens as, hebe's, pseudopanax and pittosporums that have outgrown the space allotted here on the coast as we will have more harsh weather ahead of us. When things dry out a bit the soft ground will be just right for digging up convolvulus roots, you will know where they are by the tell tale dead top growth. Every root needs to be removed even if they are running through the roots of shrubs and clumps of perennials, if manageable dig up and pull convolvulus roots away then replant. In one smallish patch of garden where convolvulus was growing up and smothering shrubs last summer I dug out more than one wheelbarrow full of roots, I kid you not!!, long white roots that criss crossed this patch of ground had spread through plant roots along the fence line seeming to know where they needed to be to climb. It is so satisfying to start at one end of a root and remove it without breaking right to the other end. Because I never use weed spray on the garden, digging and pulling it out is the only way to beat it.  Pruning: Understanding how something grows is helpful before pruning, does it flower on new or old wood, how mature does a fruit tree need to be to produce fruiting spurs, will a wound heal well or will it bleed like cherries and plums and if so when does it produce less sap?.There is a right time to prune any plant for it to respond beneficially for your purposes by producing new flowers, fruit, foliage or training to shape, ect. But sometimes it is best just to do it, the worst that can happen is that you will lose a season's flowering and learn a useful lesson at the same time. Hydrangeas and lavender are best left now until you see new growth.  Rose pruning: I touched on this last week so I have listed some varieties this week:Bush roses: concentrate on clearing the center of the bush, remove all inward facing branches at an outward facing bud, prune height back by two thirds always at an outward facing bud and remove any old and damaged branches. Brush old gnarly rose centers with a wire brush to stimulate and encourage new budding. Floribunda bush roses: like iceberg with a number of blooms on one stem need a few older branches taken right back each year to encourage new strong branching and newer branches taken back by two thirds. Hybrid tea roses:These are the roses that can grow a single exhibition bloom on a stem, these rose bushes can be pruned back quite hard to an outward facing bud. Standard bush roses:Same as bush roses. Climbing roses:These roses flower at their best when the branches are trained horizontally along a fence or wall, they will then develop small branches along the length to carry flowers. After a number of years a main horizontal branch will become unproductive and need to be removed, replaced with a new branch and train gently out to take it's place. The new branch will bud up quickly sending out small outward growing branches to harden off in a couple of years. To prune established horizontal branches, take the outward growing branches back to the second out facing bud closest to the main horizontal branch. Pillar roses:These are the best type to climb up and be trained over an arch or pergola. I cut the old growth back from these with a hedge trimmer Fairy rose and flower carpet roses: I also cut back with a hedge trimmer but opened them up by removing branches from the middle with secateurs.  Bare rooted trees:The bulk of new season's bare rooted deciduous trees are arriving into retail shops now,  avoid planting when the ground is frozen or excessively wet, they will hold in bags or wet sawdust until the ground is right.Evergreen trees and shrubs are on offer as well, choose now but don't be in a hurry to plant them at this coldest time of the year because you will not gain any new growth until spring. Keep in their bags or pots outside in a sheltered place to harden off, they can sit like this through winter.  Veg: Too wet to do anything other than set seed potatoes for chitting and sow seeds to germinate in a warm light place. Fruit: Plant deciduous fruit trees and bushes in a sunny site, avoid frosty hollows for early starters such as plums and pears. Prune.early to Late Spring Peach and nectarine trees to maintain an open center (only if needed) in early spring this will allow the wounds to close faster as growth begins, early spring also allows you to see how many flower buds have survived the cold weather. Cherries need summer pruning as well for the first 5 years and only on a sunny day to avoid silver leaf.  I have found If I prune an apple tree hard each winter it will make a mass of new growth but no blossom, hence no fruit. So now any tree or shrub that is growing too vigorously I wait until summer to prune hard, when leaves are fully grown, before roots start to store food for winter and cuts will heal over pushing out no new growth. This is a good rule of thumb for cordons (espaliered trees) only cut back any weak growth in winter to encourage vigorous new shoots in spring. If removing large thick branches in summer while sap is up wounds may need sealed if they bleed.  Cheers Linda.

Wet lawns can be drained to the lowest point.

Gardening in North Otago July 6th 2022

Deep root soaking means allowing water to be available to all roots of a tree or shrub.

July and some good frosts have come our way here on the coast but then very warm spring-like weather as well so we can't complain. Winter is normally the time to store away the hose but not unless we get a downpour, shallow rooted trees and shrubs will need a deep root watering if ground is dry, this should be done in the morning. For all evergreens that you notice looking a bit limp, camellias, rhododendrons, azalea's, hydrangea, lavender, Hebe. Shallow rooted perennials will let you know when water is needed, you will notice plumpness has gone from them ( but only established plants, small newly planted shrubs and trees will not have the root capacity to take up excess water. Deep root soaking is very important for established maples, dry ground puts these trees under huge stress which is shown instantly in the fine branching, clearing out dead branches from past dry damage will allow you to see if wood is looking stressed. After a soaking mulch will hold moisture from frost drawing it up, compost, pea straw, leaf mulch, old lawn clippings, any organic matter that will not blow away you have at hand is better than nothing. Dry winters are kind to bugs, check the underside of hellebores (winter rose) . They can be smothered in green fly ready to fly onto the new rose growth in spring. Rose pruning will be under way this month, if you are not sure how to go about it, concentrate on opening the middle of mature bushes. Cut out any inward growing, crossed over branches. Prune on a slant at an outward facing bud, the bud is where a new growth will emerge from so it needs to be facing away from the middle of the bush. This applies to standard roses as well. Established, trained climbing roses may need old leader branches cut right out and a younger new growth tied in its place. Don't be afraid to get stuck in and remove anything that looks past its best. All outward growth from trained long branches can be pruned back to the second outward facing bud, these buds will produce the flowers for this summer. Planting new roses: Plant to below where you see the rootstock grafted to the rose, fill the planting hole with water and let it seep away then plant with roots over a mound of soil and firm in. Standard roses will need a firm stake. Dahlias will need mulch protection if left in the ground, clumps can be dug now and reduced, dahlia tubers will hold in a dry place until planting out when frosts are over. Peonies are divided in autumn and on offer now to be planted in good draining soil, if you think there is a chance they would sit in wet soggy soil over winter they may rot, planting can continue until September. If young trees or shrubs need transplanting now is a good time to do it whilst they are at their most dormant stage. Vegetables On the coast start raising vegetable seeds in glass houses or under glass or plastic with ventilation spaces to circulate air and stop seeds going mouldy. Plant seedling plants that are now on offer along with garlic cloves. In colder areas sit back and let frosts work on the soil. Start sprouting seed potatoes, early varieties like Jersey benne, Cliffs kidney, Rocket, Ilam hardy, Maris Anchor should be sprouting now for an early planting. Fruit Look closely at the shape of your fruit trees and plan how pruning can improve them if needed. Well established Pip fruit trees will put out less unwanted growth if left until sap is back up in spring summer, but young fruit trees need shaping while branches can be seen. Cheers, Linda

Gardening in North Otago June 28th 2022

Brrrrrr July, we are getting through winter here in North Otago, but mid winter does not mean the garden shuts down. Despite the cold some of the most fragrant shrubs take center stage later this month. Viburnum, winter sweet, witch hazel, daphne bholua and  sarcocca (sweet box)  introduce sweet fragrance to gardens unlike any other season. Hellebores are also budding up, these wonderful plants bring years of pleasure and there are many new hellebore cultivators on offer now. Another worthwhile winter interest plant is bergenia, this wonderfully bold foliage, edging plant is enhanced by the cold, especially bergenia bressingham ruby turning a deep plum the colder it is then, as a bonus pushes up pinnacles of deep pink flowers in spring. Nandina also intensifies in colour during winter displaying bright red / orange foliage to brighten a garden. Roses: Rain will have dealt to roses still in bud,  remove damaged buds and petals from bushes and the ground, the fungus Botrytis cinerea requires cool wet weather to thrive and can wreak havoc among susceptible plants like roses, azaleas and bedding plants. We need hard frosts to take care of fungus and bugs.  If you feel spray is needed, spray Lime Sulphur first which defoliates bushes then wait several weeks before spraying Champion Copper and Conqueror Oil. leave this second spray until after roses have had the winter prune.  New seasons, bare rooted roses have arrived in Garden centers, prepare ground by digging in old stable manure or bagged rose mix. If planting a rose in the same place a rose has been growing, you will need to remove most of the soil and replace it with soil from another part of the garden, disease is transferred very quickly from one rose to another. Roses planted at this time of the year are less likely to suffer from planting stress.   Birds will be looking for food this month, our native birds are not fond of grains and bread will attract introduced birds like sparrows and blackbirds. These birds can become dominant and crowd-out our natives, especially the small ones, meaning you might have birds in your garden, but they won’t be natives. Sugar water is the perfect food for nectar-eating native birds. You can make it by mixing 1/3 of a cup of sugar (preferably brown or raw) with 1L of water placed somewhere safe where cats can’t easily reach. It's well worth making a bird feeder and placing it where it can be seen from the house, or hang in a tree. Buy wild bird seed or perhaps just use fat to attract the wax-eyes. Birds will be hungry and, once attracted to the station, become very friendly.   Time to clean out glass & tunnel houses: A good job for a winter's day, remove all old plantings and spray to eradicate problems carried over from summer. I use a mix of one part bleach to nine parts water. Remove a generous amount of the past planting medium ( soil / potting mix) then spread manure enriched compost containing worms to work the compost in. A fresh mix can be added on top when planting begins. Veg: On the coast if your veg garden is not too wet and muddy build up soil by trenching in manure enriched compost then plant leafy greens, onion sets, garlic and brassicas. Further inland glass and tunnel houses will be needed.   Start chitting seed potatoes, early varieties are Jersey benne, Cliffs kidney, Rocket, Ilam hardy, Maris Anchor. Lay seed potatoes out on newspaper or straw in a dry, airy place out of direct sunlight. Seed potatoes have eyes to shoot from, these shoots will give potatoes a good start when planted out as the ground becomes warmer. On the coast some Gardeners plant this month in a glass or tunnel house to get very early new potatoes.  Fruit: Tamarillos, if lucky enough to have these in your garden they will be hanging like jewels from almost bare branches, such a treat at this time of the year. Because the plants do not make hard wood so are frost tender but here on the coast in a sunny location they ripen and are ready to pick now. Tamarillos will grow from tip cuttings, a bush will last for a decade if protected during winter and prefer to be outside in a frost free position, not in a glass house.Lemon “Meyer” are cold hardy and will fruit all year, if planting a new plant remove all flowers and small fruit for the first 3 years to get branch work established then it will produce for years. Plant where they get afternoon sun but shade roots and feed with citrus food in early spring.NZ Cranberry(Myrtus ugni) A small evergreen bush, very fragrant when fruiting and can be hedged. Myrtus ugni has a taste combination of strawberry, pineapple and apple. My Grandchildren make a beeline to them.  Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in North Otago June 21st 2022

The shortest day already and the sun is beaming down as I write this after a number of dismal, winter days in a row. The first Matariki holiday this Friday will give us a long weekend to maybe get busy in the garden as there is so much to be done right now for Gardeners. Compost and pea straw spreading, chainsaw tree work and hedge trimming, pruning, cutting back and mowing up the last leaves. After all that, gardens will be waiting for Spring and Gardeners can get on with sowing seeds and potting up plants for the new growing season. That is what I am busy doing now because I like to be ready when gardens slowly awaken after winter, plus I do not now have that big garden to put to bed, whew!! Sowing seeds on the coast: I put seed trays under cover and seeds do germinate when the ground warms on sunny days. Pricking out into punnets can also be done once seeds show two leaves then returned to the protection until frosts are over. Wait until the potting mix looks dry before mist watering and always do this in the morning which gives the mix time to warm again before the night chill. Plant sweet-pea's now to flower in early spring. It is too late in the year to trim soft trees and shrubs wait now until new growth has firmed and finished growing in spring. Ivy is one plant you can cut back at any time, like wisteria if you let it get away each soft leader put out can grow into a thick woody tree trunk if left. This is a good time of the year to really look at the garden, with deciduous trees and shrubs bare of leaves branches can be removed if overcrowding and large tree branches taken back if they were throwing too much shade in the growing season. It can make all the difference to letting light into the house and opening a view from windows. If a tree has outgrown its space close to the house consider removing it and replacing it with a smaller tree or shrub to create the enclosed look needed without overpowering and causing problems. Conifers can outgrow an allotted space in 10 years, then just keep growing up and out becoming a problem. If a conifer has branches removed from the bottom they will not regrow and doing this will always spoil the shape. If a huge gap is left with the removal of a tree or shrub, fill the gap with a section of manuka screening placed behind the smaller replacement plant, it will give the plant protection and once the plant has reached the desired height and width the screening can be removed. You may find lots of rogue trees and shrubs birds have introduced popping up everywhere while weeding, some may have grown amongst shrubs like rhododendrons and camellias and become quite established before noticed. They can be stubborn to remove but it is best to remove them completely rather than cut them off, they will just keep growing stronger each year and undermine the roots of the needed plant. On the coast keep an eye out for the many self seeded plants, a bonus for the garden, hellebore, lupins, poppies, pansy, viola, forget- me- not and primula. If you have pollyantha's that you left in the ground from last year they will have multiplied, and will be easy to break apart and plant out separately. Polly's love dried blood, it greens them up after transplanting. If you do have dried blood, sprinkle a little around camellia's and Daphne's if they look like they are not thriving. Winter lawns that have been performing poorly in spite of feeding and watering may be improved with a winter liming. Aim to achieve a PH of around 6 (mildly acidic) which will encourage strong grass growth. Vegetable garden: The shortest day is garlic planting time. The annual crop has been planted at the Weston School veg garden, now we are hoping for a good harvest in December. Planting Garlic: Prepare your soil with organic matter like manure enriched compost. Choose a sunny spot to plant NZ grown garlic, point end up, about 3 inches deep. Bulbs form in November / December so keep water up if rain is scarce and feed with blood and bone or liquid feed during the growing season. Sow a green crop where soil is bare and leave until spring before digging in. I have sown mustard thickly to get a good cover. Cheers, Linda. Digging last years garlic at Weston School.

Gardening in North Otago June 14th 2022

It sure is winter now and It sure is winter now and after the cold wind we have been experiencing, leaf rakes can be put away soon..? whew!  As I have written not so long ago It is a good time of the year to really look at the garden, with deciduous trees and shrubs bare inspection can be done Sprouting new growth beneath a trees graft area can be taken off. All large deciduous trees bought today will have been grafted onto strong growing root stock and sometimes root stock will push out growth at the grafted point. This must be cut out, I have seen a few mature trees left to grow this way and the result is not good. A prunus displaying beautiful pink blossom on one side and insipid root stock white blossom on the other side spoils a tree that should have grown beautifully into its shape.Thin out crossed over branches, don't just shorten a branch back as it will regrow from that point, take it right out and let some light in. Prunus and Malus (crab apple) and silver pear are bad for branch overcrowding. Always make sure pruning equipment is cleaned from one tree to the next, methylated spirit is ok for doing this. New seasons trees will be offered in local outlets about now: Magnolia, many to choose from, large deciduous type with beautiful tulip shaped flowers, Star wars, upright H 4m, flowers pink with white centres, Genie, H 3m flowers black/red tulip shaped, a relatively small tree to suit a small confined area. Magnolia grandiflora: Evergreen, thick shiny leaves and large waxy white flowers height 4m / width 6m Magnolia little Gem H 5m / w 3m can be trimmed as a hedge. Bush type Magnolia stellata slow growing 3m when mature, flowers white or pink star shaped.Leaf autumn colour: Nyssa Sylvatica: deciduous H 5m x W 3m, one of the brightest red autumn coloured trees. Acer ( Maple ), many to choose from, some display wonderful fiery reds and orange autumn colour and some have intense gold autumn foliage. Japanese acer all require a sheltered, simi shaded location to grow as they should.  Spring interest: Parrotia persica: H 8m clusters of red flowers on bare branches in spring, interesting bark, fine autumn colour Summer shade: Plane tree: Excellent large shade tree for the bigger garden with maple- like leaves and attractive mottled bark. H 12m / W 5m Trees for the smaller garden: Robinia lace lady, lovely weeping form with fine twisted branches, Cercis forest pansy, pretty heart shaped wine coloured leaves and pink spring blossom, Cornus florida Cherokee Daybreak,  this small tree has large, blue-green foliage with broad, cream margins and wavy edges. White, flat flowers in spring. Fraxinus Griffithii, is a fast-growing, small tree with shiny, pinnate-like foliage that can be shaped into any size or form. Summer blooms are large white panicles. Needs a warm well drained spot and grows to a maximum height of 4m.  Digging up and shifting shrubs like rhododendrons, azaleas and magnolias can be done now, any plant I think has been struggling for a couple of years will get a ride in the wheelbarrow. This is also the time to remove trees and shrubs that have long outgrown their youthful beauty, replace with a younger version of the original or something different. You can change the whole look of a tired garden by doing this.   Mulch: If in need of well cooked / ready mulch to keep growth down in rough areas, I recommend what they now have available at our Resource Recovery Park in Chelmer st, perfect for mulching around large trees and shrubs. Lawns that perform poorly in spite of feeding and watering during the growing season may be improved with a winter liming, aim to achieve a PH of around 6 (mildly acid) which will encourage strong grass growth. Worms will also appreciate lime. Vegetables: In the vegetable garden where green leafy vegetables and onions will be growing next summer give a dressing of 250 grams per square metre of dolomite lime. If you follow a regular rotation this will ensure that most of the garden receives lime once in three years, permanent crops like rhubarb should be limed every three years as well. in gardens fed with compost rather than chemical fertilisers the PH tends to rise gradually eventually making regular liming unnecessary.  Fruit :People ask me about the pruning of fruit trees and I can only share what has worked for me over the years. It is confusing to explain unless shown to someone so I thought I would give an explanation which I hope will be easy to follow starting with apples. Apples are produced from shoots which are in their second  year. One of the aims of pruning is to produce a balance between side shoots produced this year and those produced last year. Winter pruning will invigorate the tree, causing it to grow more during the following season. The first pruning should occur immediately after planting, make sure you know if you have a one or two year old tree. A one year old tree - cut off the top half of the trunk with sharp secateurs but before cutting make sure the bottom half contains at least four buds or formed branches. If not, make the cut higher above the fourth bud. Second, third and fourth year old trees: The light grey coloured parts of the tree show growth in the previous year, this should Not be pruned,  black coloured side shoots should all be pruned by a third, cut just above an outward facing bud - this bud will then produce a side shoot in spring which will grow away from the centre of the tree.  A five year old tree can be considered mature and the basic shape will have been established. Pruning is best done in summer to eliminate unwanted new growth and consist of keeping the centre of the tree relatively clear of growth, removing all weak or diseased growth and keeping the tree within the space available. Remember that apples will grow on wood produced the previous year, so always leave a good proportion (say 50%) of the previous year's growth. I hope this is straightforward and helpful.   Cheers, Linda