Gardening in Waitaki May 19th 2021

Well those frost's were sprung on us after those lovely mellow autumn days, out came the winter woolies and in came the fire wood. Frost happening now is normal for gardens, as the days shorten and the cold sets in, many plants become “hardened”. Water is pumped out of plant cells into the roots and any remaining sap, which is a sugary solution, often acts as antifreeze. Trees shed their thin, flat leaves each autumn to reduce water loss. Evergreen trees and shrubs with waxy, needle-like leaves (pine, spruce, fir) or tough, broad waxy leaves (holly, magnolia) are more resistant to the cold and moisture loss. Plants can also modify their life cycles to deal with the changing seasons and lack of moisture. No tree or shrub roots survive if subjected to consistently wet frozen ground, good drainage is a must for healthy root growth. Bearded Iris rhizomes and freesia bulbs need to be exposed to bake in the sun so compost and mulch can be kept off them. Shifting bigger shrubs that were wrenched earlier in the year can be lifted now and transplanted. Some gardens get carried and try to out grow the size allotted to them!! shrubs I planted and thought at the time I could keep shaped to fit the space but after a while I get fed up with trying to keep them the right size, they are wrenched by digging around one half of the roots adding mulch to the damaged root for new feeder roots to grow into. Lifting of the tree or shrub can be done a few months later and given a ride in the wheel barrow to be trans planted. Complete new garden rooms can be created by shifting tall front plantings to the back which opens a garden up allowing room in the front to be edged and graveled for the placing of seating or may be a statue or large ornate pot. Don't hesitate in reducing the height and width of trees and shrubs, it is essential if garden space is limited, if only to let more light on to lower growing plants. This is a great time to make new perennial beds or re-organise existing beds. Perennial clumps increase in size annually and soon over take a space. Lift overgrown or stagnant clumps, break up and replant some of the youngest growths from the perimeter. Healthy vigorous plants can be reduced by putting a sharp spade in where you would like a reduction then lift the cut portions out without disturbing the original plant. I have done this with asters, phlox, aurbretia, small grass's, hosta's, and herbs like sage, thyme and lemon balm. Rockery plants can be divided now as well. Once plants have been sectioned and rearranged cover the bed and around plants with compost which will encourage new root growth and help keep the perennial bed warmer through the colder months to come. Lilies, this is the main time to shift or divide old over grown clumps of lilies. Be careful not to break the fleshy scales and to retain all the basal roots. Don't pull the old steams away from the bulb as it leaves a hole where water can enter and cause rot, just cut old stems short and bend, never allow Lilly bulbs to dry out while out of the ground. I plant lilies on a little river sand and cover with compost which has had blood and bone added. Vegetables and fruit . Continue planting strawberry plants, raising the beds where drainage is suspect and adding manure rich compost to the beds. Garlic, such a used ingredient in today's cooking. Garlic cloves should be in Garden centers now, It is said to plant garlic on the shortest day but any time from late May until August is ok. Select large single cloves (plant point up) 5cm deep and 20cm apart in warm, well-drained sites where soil has been recently limed. Do not cover garlic beds with thick mulch because it keeps moisture around cloves encouraging rot. Start pruning pip fruit trees any time after the leaves have fallen, remove dead or damaged wood, crossing or inward turning branches, excess leaders or sucker growth developing on the main trunks. Shorten back vigorous leaders by about a 1/3 to promote branching. Prune long side branches back to a weak twig to discourage further spread.

Cheers, Linda

Gardening in North Otago May 12th 2021

Autumn at our lovely Oamaru Botanical Gardens. What a difference a rain makes during Autumn, It is the shallow rooted tree's and shrubs that need moisture before winter. I have lost aged maples because of dry Autumn and winter season's. Other shallow rooted shrubs that will be benefiting from a good soaking are rhododendrons, azaleas, camellias, daphne, hydrangeas lilacs, cornus (dogwood), buxus and viburnums. Leaf mulch: Fallen leaves will have a head start breaking down with moisture and autumn warmth, each tree leaf drop is meant for nourishing the roots of the tree that shed them but piles of leaves left on lawns will restrict light needed for grass. Leaf mulch can be returned to tree roots once decomposed. Mowing leaves before bagging for leaf mulch gets mulch breaking down faster, if leaves are dry add enough water to wet each layer. I have been potting up well grown seedlings before the nights get colder, because they are straight from seed trays frost cloth has not been needed yet here on the coast but it soon will be, I remove it on sunny days and replace once the sun goes down. This is a great time to make new perennial beds or re-organise existing beds, with perennial clumps increasing in size annually they soon over fill a space. Lift overgrown clumps, break up and replant some of the youngest growths from the perimeter. Healthy vigorous plants can be reduced by putting a sharp spade in where you would like a reduction then lift the cut portion out without disturbing the remaining plant. I do this with asters, phlox, aurbretia, small grass's, hosta's, and herbs like sage, thyme and lemon balm. Rockery plants can be divided now as well. Once plants have been sectioned and rearranged cover the bed and around plants with compost to encourage new root growth and help to keep perennial beds warmer through the colder months. Lilies, this is the main time to shift or divide old overgrown clumps of lilies. Be careful not to break the fleshy scales and to retain all the basal roots. Don't pull the old steams away from the bulb as it leaves a hole where water can enter and cause rot, just cut old stems short and bend. Never allow Lilly bulbs to dry out while out of the ground, I plant lilies on a little river sand and cover with compost which has had blood and bone added. Hellebores (winter roses) can now have old leaves removed, they are budding up for a winter display so a fortnightly liquid feed can be given if you feel they need boosting. Further in land it would be advisable to leave some top growth on to give frost protection to soft new growth, once hardened remove all leaves to display flowers. May is the planting month for tulips bulbs should be in retail outlets when they open, plant them at least 8 inches (20cm) deep in a well drained sunny spot . Lawns: Grass grubs will be slowing down the eating of grass roots now, as larvae, they eat to fuel their transition into the brown night beetle, this process takes about 12 months. The most damage done to lawns is during February until May. Rake out patches of dead lawn ready for re-sowing now on the coast while ground is still warm or wait until spring. Earth-friendly way to eradicate grass grub is nematodes. Beneficial nematodes seek out and kill grubs and other soil-inhabiting insects. They come on a sponge (invisible to naked eye) that you soak in water, put in a sprayer and spray your dirt or lawn. They will multiply over time and continue to kill grubs. Vegetables and fruit . Continue planting strawberry plants, raising the beds where drainage is suspect and adding manure rich compost to the beds. If planting new runners from existing strawberry plants use only one or two closest to the mother plant. Garlic planting time, It is said to plant garlic on the shortest day but any time from late May until August is ok. Select large single cloves (plant point up) 5cm deep and 20cm apart in warm, well-drained sites where soil has been recently limed. Feijoas are plumping up and our NZ cranberries (myrtus ugni) are ripe for eating , also figs should be ready along with walnuts and hazelnuts so still a lot of gathering still happening. Cheers, Linda

Gardening in North Otago May 4th 2021

At this time of the year days give us chilly mornings, coats, scarves and gloves then it becomes the weather for shorts and tee shirts again, so hard to know what to wear when leaving home early in the morning. Although we detect seasonal changes by the change in temperature, this is not the way plants know seasons are changing, they determine the time of year by the length of daylight, this is known as the photoperiod. I should start this at the beginning and mention that seasons come about because of the tilt of Earth's axis of rotation. If this tilt changes seasons as we know them can become exaggerated but plants continue to grow and change depending on the length of daylight. Bedding plants: I have Pansy, viola, primula, snapdragons and calendula popping up from seed sown a month ago in a protected place. They should continue making growth a while longer and once roots have filled punnets they will be hardened off and planted or potted on to be planted in spring. There is a great selection of well grown flower bedding plants in garden centers ready for planting now. Once planted the autumn sun will bring them into bud and here on the coast they should flower during late winter. Seeds: Seeds pods are dry ready for collecting and storing in paper bags and envelopes, Adding a sprinkle of rice will absorb any remaining moisture and help to keep seed dry and in good condition. Here on the coast flower seed will germinate and grow strong roots until conditions are right for them to bud and flower. In cold areas seed will store until spring and germinate when the ground warms and days lengthen. Wisterias: will need a cut back now, ours would grow along the upstairs balcony threatening to push through the sliding doors and take over a bedroom! I used the hedge trimmer to get rid of all the leafy wispy growth, cutting too hard back into thick wood will remove new buds. Some of that long winding growth can eventually grow into a thick branch so if training a young plant let only one length go either way along a structure. I needed to be given that advice when planting the now multi branched extremely heavy wisteria we left! Compost: I Will go on about compost again because we are running out of time to get heaps cooking. Balance all those leaves with layers of old compost/soil, straw, manure and grass clippings . Moisture is a must, if the mix is dry add water during the heat of the day so the chill will be off before night's cooling. Decomposing will continue on until temperatures drop dramatically. It is such a bonus to have compost / mulch on hand for hungry plants come spring when the ground is left sour from winter and in need of boosting. Lawns have slowed down at last, lime and gypsum can be spread on lawns now, lime to sweeten and gypsum to soften hard compacted ground which has a lot of clay content. No more cracks in the lawn if gypsum is applied and watered in for a few years in a row in autumn. Fruit: If you had bad leaf curl on your peach and nectarine trees this season now is the time to clean up and remove as many old leaves as possible from around the base of your trees, but don’t compost these as it will spread the infection. Controlling leaf curl isn’t easy but good orchard hygiene habits, repeated each year, will give you the best chance. If left untreated the problem will get worse year-after-year and reduce the tree’s ability to produce lots of fruit. Note for spring: Apply a light dressing of a quick acting fertiliser such as sulphate of ammonia to encourage new leaf growth. At the same time apply a seaweed fertiliser, such as Seasol and Comfrey spray, to help the plants’ immunity to leaf curl. Once you notice the symptoms of leaf curl on leaves it is too late to control the disease in those leaves but you can try and stop the fungus from spreading. A clean up spray of lime sulphur when branches are bare can be done. Then in early spring a spray of copper based fungicide applied when buds are about to burst. This will also treat fungal problems on other fruit trees – like black spot on apple trees. Mix the copper fungicide with a spreader/sticker, like Rain Gard, both of which you can get from a local garden centre. Tamarillos: These delicious, tangy fruits ripen in autumn and winter and can go from pale green to rich ripe red in about a week. They are ripe when either a deep, dark red or golden orange/yellow depending on variety. Pick fruit individually by cutting stems. Once picked they keep well and will become sweeter after a week or so. Citrus bushes would benefit from a rich layer of compost, well-rotted manure, dolomite, seaweed, straw – whatever you have spread as a mulching layer around roots. Vegetables: Save seed from beans and peas and also a few of your herb and companion flower plant seeds for next spring. Mold soil around the base of leeks to keep them pale and sweet, but keep it beneath the bottom leaf so it doesn't get inside the stems and make cleaning them difficult. An application of lime now is a real benefit to many of the leaf crops – cabbage, spinach, kale, broccoli and silver beet. In soon to be very cold areas an insulating layer will help to prevent soil you plan to plant out in early spring from becoming water-logged once rains come, use polythene, fertilizers bags, old carpet or underlay. Spring planting can be delayed for ages because of wet cold ground. Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in North Otago May 1st 2021

The year is marching on! with May being the official beginning of winter for NZ but I think of June as the start of winter because May often produces warm Autumn days along with the beautiful leaves. In nature leaves are soil food, they fall to the ground creating humus but leaves falling around a garden and on lawns are usually raked up, this is why it is so important to add compost to gardens and lawns where trees grow. This is the gardening  month to hoard like squirrels what nature gives us, leaves, soft garden waste, pine needles even seaweed if available to create compost and mulch to give back to gardens in spring. May hoarding will apply also to, pine cones, fire wood, fruit and veg to take us through those non productive winter months.Winter: With not having the big garden now I am reviewing the gardening practices that worked for our soil and climate, North Otago climate is  varied depending on where your gardening. With Weston being on the verge of inland frosts start earlier than closer to the coast and further inland, Enfield, Ngpara way frost will have been happening last month and will be harder the further inland. Get to know how winter happens in your garden and try to be one step ahead with prepping for winter. Those well inland will have fire wood sorted, fruit and veg picked and stored, compost covered to retain heat a little longer, gardens cut back and mulched and tender plants protected. Here on the coast we still have this month to put these things in place.  Compost: Layer soft hedge trimmings, leaves, grass clippings, garden waste, manure and any established compost remaining and watering between layers. Cold weather has a marked slowing down effect on compost organisms and any insulation wrapped around a bin or over heaps i.e. straw, old carpet or weed mat will help them keep working. Compost / mulch put on gardens now will provide food for the plants when they need it in spring and it helps keep soil a little warmer for plant roots over winter.  Snails & slugs: The heavy rain will have encouraged snails into the garden, my bantams were great slug and snail hunters but I still found them in dark sheltered spots among pots or behind plants growing up against walls, flax and agapanthus are especially bad for harboring snails to multiply fast and be ready to destroy plants in spring. It is no good transporting snails to a vacant area away from your garden because they have homing instincts and travel long distances to return to their garden of choice. I cannot bring myself to stamp on them or drown them in a bucket so if you are like me you can gather up as many as you can find and put them in a plastic bag, close it tight and put in the freezer, this way they will go to sleep and not wake up,  yes I know "what is she on about"? working with Nature is what gardening is all about with me and snails belong in gardens until you remove them. Hydrangeas have deepened into rich shades, l like to leave this colour for as long as it takes for them to look faded and untidy, this also gives stems time to harden and once hardened they can be shifted if needed. Really large bushes can be dug up and shifted, roots cut and pulled into several individual bushes. In cold districts don't prune back until spring, leave the tops on to protect the new growth. Plan new plantings of deciduous trees and shrubs remembering to allow room for them to grow both up and outwards. Deciduous trees and shrubs will come into retail outlets at the end of June / July. If your ground tends to get wet and sticky in winter it would be a good idea to dig the area up now while the soil is easy to work. Dig out the soil add peat or compost and blood and bone to it then fill back in again until you are ready to plant. If you know the deciduous trees and shrubs required order them now from garden centres so you will not miss out. Veg: If worms are rare in your garden, this usually indicates that the organic content of the soil is very low, worms seem to always find manure but it needs to be spread as a layer low down under a soil bed for them to come up to it. This would be a daunting task to undertake in established gardens, although worth digging manure into trenched rows, defiantly the way to go when establishing a new veg area where soil is dry and has clay content, the introduction of worms will make all the difference. Fruit: Continue breaking up and planting strawberry plants, the runner closest to the Mother plant is the one to plant. Raise beds with compost where drainage is suspect, if weeds have been a problem cover the strawberry patch with  polythene then cut criss-cross holes, plant then push polythene corners back around the plant roots. An added bonus is that polythene keeps ground warmer. Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in North Otago 20th April 2021

An image taken at Oamaru's lovely Botanic Gardens. Autumn splendor everywhere here in North Otago with leaves falling thickly now as we gradually move towards the colder months. As I have mentioned before most leaves compost well layered with soft green waste, manure and completed compost, adding water as you build. When layering is finished cover heaps with old carpet, polythene or anything you have on hand that would serve as a cover to keep heat in as it builds. Nature's plan for trees is for the leaf drop from each to mulch and nourish the tree which we tend to ignore as we rake leaves up, however by mulching we can give back to trees. Don't be too worried about raking every leaf from the garden they will soon break down, however too many leaves left piled on gardens will be creating homes for garden pests to winter over. Snails and slugs will be searching for damp hidden places for winter protection from birds, they are usually found under hellebores, heuchera and hostas. Roses: It is important not to deadhead roses even though they look untidy. When a spent bloom sets seed sap continues to be drawn up to feed these seeds and keep them developing, when this is happening the bud shoots on the steam are not activated because the sap is bypassing them to get to the seed. If we cut the seed head off the sap will go into making new growth too soft to go into winter. Right now remove and dispose of all the diseased leaves from bushes and the ground around them to prevent the over wintering of rust, black spot and mildew. A spray of lime sulphur next month will defoliate them and kill off the remainder of summer disease.  Shifting shrubs, camellias, rhododendrons, azaleas, and other small shrubs can be shifted now, If roots have been compromised in the shifting a third of the top growth should be removed, if you don't do this nature will do it for you. Larger shrubs can to be trenched now and shifted in late winter.  Lawns:  De- thatching can be done now if required, lawns can become thick with dead thatch under good grass, a de-thatcher will pull all that build up out to give grass a chance to grow healthily. A De-thatcher is easy to use and can be hired from T K Hire in Humber Street Oamaru.TMarch / April are the best months to sow a new lawn and resow thin patches. Even though nights start cooling after the clocks go back the ground stays warm for a few more weeks to let grass seed germinate. If your lawns have not done well during spring and summer a dressing of sifted compost, about 1/2 a bucket to the sqm working it down to the roots with the back of a rake will improve both very light and very compact soils.   Fruit: Clean up sprays can be applied to all fruit trees and fruiting shrubs that have shown leaf and mildew spots. On a fine day super copper or Nature's way fungus spray can be used. Feijoas, The aroma and flavour of feijoas are a treat at the end of the fruiting season, ripening and picking will go on into winter. (Quote), feijoas are said to be an excellent source of hydration for the body and provide soluble fibre to combat a build up of toxins in the digestive system. Vegetables: Still time to sow a green crop when space becomes available in the vegetable garden, dig in veg gone to seed and annual weeds before they go to seed, it's all good humus for soil.Keep planting winter veg and keep pumpkins growing on, no sign of frost yet here on the coast. Give plants more light In glass houses now, remove any shading and give plants less water. Cheers, Linda

De_thatcher at work, thatch can be used as mulch on the garden.

Gardening in North Otago April 13th 2021

Well we got the rain and how,  while I write this gutters filled with autumn leaves will be overflowing and North Otago, while glowing in Autumn splendor will start to recover from months of damaging dryness.If I was still maintaining the large garden we have now left, the wedding season would be ending so cutting back would be full on. This is the last month when mild days make it a pleasure to be working in gardens which is good because before Autumn slips into winter there is a lot to be done. Light hedge trimming, cutting back of all that has finished flowering, clearing gardens and pots of summer annuals to allow replanting, dressing cleared gardens with compost / mulch, and yes all those leaves need to be raked, composted, leaf mulch started or burnt. Cuttings: Growth starts slowing as days shorten, tree and shrub wood begin to harden  as seeds are produced and ripen. Semi-ripe cuttings can be taken from this year's growth, woody at the base and soft at the tip. I have taken cuttings from buddleia, fuchsia, lavender, hebe, geranium, pelargonium, felicia daisy, salvia, rosemary, sage and lemon verbena. Take cuttings at a node, where a leaf is on the stem of a plant, because this is where most of the plant's natural hormones are concentrated. Depending on the plant make cuttings approx 10 -15cm long. Remove leaves from the bottom half of the cutting and also reduce some top leaves and reduce those left by half. I push cuttings into river sand ( also known as crusher dust), moist river sand stays tight around cuttings until roots develop. Cuttings can stay outside in a protected, semi shaded position with good overhead light. Seed raising for winter and spring annuals will have success germinating now before days become colder and shorter. Sow into trays of potting mix with a layer of seed raising mix on top. Place sown seed trays in a well lit protected place and once germinated pot on into punnets before seedlings become leggy. When seedling leaves are well developed make sure trays are in a place outside to harden as they grow. Germinating for me are pansies, violas, primula malacoides and wall flowers. Peony roses: Do not disturb peony roses, just cut back the dead stalks and leaves and destroy, if left near new growth diseases would be passed on. If a clump needs divided or shifted wait until Spring.  Hellebore's will benefit from fortnightly feeding now to encourage better blooms. I remove the old foliage from mine because the undersides are where green fly hide during winter. In colder areas it is best to leave the top growth on to protect buds, the cold should take care of greenfly.  Bulbs: Only feed bulbs and plants that are due to flower now, all other plants will be slowing their growth right down now to sleep through the winter. Don't waste good fertiliser on plants that won't use it. Move all spring flowering plants in pots into a sunny spot now, plants like camellia, azaleas and rhododendrons that have been tucked away in a shady spot over the hot months. If you fed them with acid fertiliser when they finished flowering, they should be fine. If not give them a little and water in well to give them a boost.  Compost:  Damp compost heaps after the rain still have time to build up heat now until the very coldest months. Layer leaves on compost along with animal manure, soft garden waste, un-sprayed grass clippings and left over compost from your last lot.  Lawns will have enjoyed the heavy rain, lets hope it drowned the grass grub! if the grubs are a problem in your lawns, (birds hunting them will let you know you have a problem)you have until May to treat lawns for grass grub, after May they stop feeding.  Grass seed sown now should strike but once frosts start you will need to wait for a spring sowing.  Fruit: If you have laden apple trees, pick as many as you need and store in a cool dry place for later and leave the rest for birds. Quince paste and quince added to apple jelly is a wonderful taste from the past.  Vegetables: Time to  clear and add compost to veg gardens for replanting  beetroot, spinach, all brassica. Sow seeds of carrots, swedes and broad beans. The ground is still warm and perfect for getting seeds and seedlings well on their way before the frosts cool things down. Concept Garden Design: Now that I am not maintaining the big garden I am putting more time into the second string to my bow, Garden Design. If in need of direction in this area I can help with a concept design for existing gardens or new builds. Contact me on 0274430256 and I will explain what I offer. Cheers, Linda.

Gardening in North Otago April 6th 2021

Not much needed rain for North Otago yet but how wonderful the weather was during and after Easter, such a treat long may it continue before winter approaches. Leaves, leaves, leaves so many on the ground and yet to fall,  right now  gardens will be on fire with yellow, red and orange displays . Most of the leaves turn into good compost but limit composting  oak or walnut leaves, they take too long to break down in heaps. If you can burn them then add the ash to compost.The addition of hen manure while building autumn compost will aid in the heating process. Dried Blood is an easy way to replenish the nitrogen content in the soil for plants needing to perform through winter,  Polyanthus, Primulas, Pansies and Cyclamen love it and will flourish when you add dried blood to their diet.  Ranunculus and anemone will be on offer in Garden centers now, They are so worthwhile and a good investment because they multiply well and give vibrant or soft mid height colour to an early spring gardens. Ranunculus and anemone corms look very dried up and brittle in the packet when bought, soak them overnight and they will become nice and plump before planting, plant at least five together in groups to get the best effect. With lilies becoming available in shops this month established clumps can be lifted if necessary, but do not disturb them unless they are very crowded or unsuitably sited. Instead top dress them with a mixture of compost and blood and bone. (A cup full of blood and bone to each bucket of compost. Be sure to keep lily bulbs moist while they are out of the ground, roots must never dry out. Almost all lilies need to be planted as deep as three times the height of the bulb.The only exception to this deep planting is the Madonna lily which is planted just below the surface and prefers to be shifted in midsummer straight after flowering. This is also one of the few lilies which also prefers limey soil. Feed rhododendron and camellias with fertiliser mixed especially for them and water in to boost them for spring flowering Break up primula and viola clumps, pot up or plant out to fill gaps in front borders. On the coast give evergreen hedges a last light tidy up during this month. further inland I would leave top growth as frost protection and trim after spring growth. Vegetables / fruitI have broccoli, silver beet, spinach, cabbage, kale and parsley seeds up and potted into punnets.  Seeds of beetroot, broad beans, carrots, onions, swedes and turnips can be sown directly into garden beds. I am sure there are some wonderful pumpkin crops ripening on the beautiful sunny Autumn days.  Tomatoes, beans and corn will keep producing while days and nights stay mild, keep water up (early in the day)  during this dry autumn.  Still plenty of apples, quince, late peaches and walnuts to keep me busy and I see tamarillos are starting to make fruit. Cheers, Linda.