Gardening in North Otago July 1st 2019

                                                        

July soon and frosts in North Otago is as it should be, but mid winter does not mean all in the garden shuts down, despite the cold some of the most fragrant shrubs take center stage later this month. Viburnum, winter sweet, witch hazel and daphne bholua introduce sweet fragrance to gardens unlike any other season. Hellebore's are also budding up, these wonderful plants will bring years of pleasure and there are many new hellebore cultivators on offer now. Another worth while winter interest plant is bergenia, this wonderfully bold foliage edging plant is enhanced by the cold, especially bergenia bressingham ruby turning a deep plum the colder it is then, as a bonus pushes up pinnacles of deep pink flowers in spring. 

Winter pots and baskets: A good time now to empty and refill pots and baskets with cheerful colour, here on the coast the African daisies Osteospermum works for me potted and placed in a sunny sheltered spot, I had some flowering during autumn so have re potted, cut back and they have pushed out new fresh growth which should bud up. Still time to pop bulbs into pots for a spring flowering, use deep pots filled half way with mix, this will allow for stem height. Pansies, violas and alyssum can be packed into hanging baskets for a colourful show. 

Birds will be looking for food this month, our native birds are not fond of grains and bread will attract introduced birds like sparrows and blackbirds. These birds can become dominant and crowd-out our natives, especially the small ones, meaning you might have birds in your garden, but they won’t be natives. Sugar water is the perfect food for nectar-eating native birds. You can make it by mixing 1/3 of a cup of sugar (preferably brown or raw) with 1L of water placed some where safe where cats can’t easily reach. It's well worth making a bird feeder and placing where it can be seen from the house, or hang in a tree. Buy wild bird seed or perhaps just use fat to attract the wax-eyes. Birds will be hungry and, once attracted to the station, become very friendly.  

Veg and fruit: Build up veg gardens by trenching in manure enriched compost then plant leafy greens, onion sets, garlic and brassicas.

 In the fruit garden it’s all about planting new season fruit trees, strawberries, pruning pip fruit and harvesting citrus. 

Cheers, Linda.
                                                                     

Lovely helleborus

                                                                         
                                                                               

Winter sweet (  chimonanthus praecox )

Gardening in North Otago June 17th 2019

Getting rid of ivy on trees and walls.

A nice past week of lovely winter day's but still a lack of frosts here on the coast however as this article is always a week behind frosts may now be a nightly occurrence.
A lot of cutting back summer growth and spreading compost here last week and while doing this being able to see what is going on at ground level.

Convolvulus has died off on top so when pulling out take it right back to the soil and remove as many roots as you can other wise roots will romp away and pop up everywhere in spring. Don't add convolvulus roots to compost because cold weather slows down decomposition so these roots will continue growing within the compost.

Ivy: It is too late in the year to trim soft trees and shrubs but ivy can be attacked if it is getting out of hand. It takes really nasty spray to kill ivy and with the height ivy grows spraying  would be a dangerous exercise when you will achieve the same visual effect of dead ivy by cutting the plant back at the bottom. Leave approximately 20 leaves close to the roots then paint upper and lower surfaces as well as the cut ends with an Ivy killing gel. The gel is systemic so it will kill down to the roots and is inactivated in the soil plus will not affect neighbouring plants, death of Ivy can take up to 14 days.

Arborists will be very busy now with deciduous trees standing bare, rule of thumb is keep the centre open by removing inward growing and crossover branches, don't just shorten an unneeded branch back because it will regrow from that point, take it right out. Flowering cherry and plum trees are best pruned in summer / autumn  because of silver leave infection. Silver leaf fruiting bodies release spores when sap is down during cooler, wetter periods less infection when the weather is warm and dry.

Always make sure your pruning equipment is cleaned from one tree to the next, methylated spirits is good for doing this. 

Self seed plants: here on the coast there are so many self seeded plants that can be potted to grow on at this time of the year, Hellebore, lupins, poppies, pansy, viola, forget- me- not and primula. They will keep making strong roots during winter and be ready to plant out in spring.

While weeding I found lots of rogue trees and shrubs introduced by birds popping up everywhere, some which have grown in amongst shrubs like rhododendrons and camellias and become quite established before I noticed them and stubborn to remove. It is best to remove them completely if you can because they just keep growing stronger each year and undermine the roots of the wanted plant. 

Lawns: In spite of winter’s arrival, in all but the coldest climates lawns are resting but roots will still be active. If we have a decent rain in the offering feeding before or during with a mix of fine compost and lawn fertiliser will keep lawns in good health and ensure they maintains a better colour through winter by feeding lawns gently and, at the same time, promote beneficial bacteria in the soil.  A few weeks after feeding, sprinkle some Lime over the lawn to lift the pH. If in doubt, take some soil to a garden centre and ask to have its pH checked If much below 6 on the pH scale lime spread now will show a marked improvement during the growing seasons. Broad-leafed weeds flourish during winter, clover, dandelions, Onehunga weed, daisies take advantage of the cooler conditions. I have been popping weeds and daisies out with the point of secateurs and filling bare patches with compost for grass to spread into.

Vegetables: The shortest day is upon us already and traditionally garlic planting time,  break cloves from the bulb and plant point facing up around 2 inch apart 1-2 inch deep in a sunny location in rich, well drained soil. I cover with pea straw for winter protection, garlic will pop up when ready to sprout.

Fruit: Healthy, productive, bare rooted fruit trees will be on offer for planting now. One of the main attractions of growing your own fruit is knowing which, if any chemicals have been used to produce a crop. Get fruit trees off to a good start by planting in full sun and free draining soil. Fruit trees in shade are more likely to have pest and disease infections, and poor cropping. If soil is on heavy clay dig planting holes down deep into clay, break up clay, add soil and stones well down to create a sump for drainage.

Prune citrus during winter, when there is no chance of borer entering the pruning wounds.

Cheers, Linda.

Spread compost and lime together on lawns in winter.

Gardening in North Otago June 11th 2019

                                                           

Last week I celebrated the fact that we had some much needed rain to dampen ground which should have remained at this time of the year but then strong winds returned us to getting the dreaded hose out again and raking the last fallen leaves and those tucked away in nooks and crannies which for me have been wool pacs full. However I do enjoy removing the build up of warm dry hide aways for garden pests and exposing the soil then a shovel or two of compost and a good soak to feed and dampen roots of the approaching spring growth.  

 Ya! I have had a load of that wonderful weed free compost from Pukeuri meat works delivered and it is going down fast onto the ornamental gardens. Contact for this is Gregg, 0272293215 who delivers truck loads or you can buy it bagged from the Humber street stall. A good mulch for orchards, shrub / native areas can be obtained from our Waitaki Resource Recovery Park,  ring Trish  03 4340999.  

I have noticed touches of spring already about the town, spring blossom, (mostly pretty prunus autumnalis which flowers four times a year) also jonquils blooming  and we have only just come into winter. Milder temperatures and the odd shower are encouraging plants to make soft growth, all the more reason to leave major pruning until we have really been hit by winter.  

Tree's that really do need attention each year are standard kilmarnock willows, these small ornamental willows are a ground cover willow species grafted onto standard willow wood becoming a Man designed, small weeping tree that nature had no plan for. Growing along the ground as it should the dead undergrowth rots and breaks down but in the upright form each seasons growth dies and builds up under new growth making the tree top heavy, remove all past growth by working under the new growth canopy. Robinia mop tops also need an annual cut back, they have also been grafted onto a standard, these trees put out fresh new growth each spring so all past growth needs to be cut right back to retain the round growth habit. 

Leucodendrons are taking center stage now here on the coast, they are wonderful for picking once fully hardened and will last for months picked and put in a vase, just the thing when there is not lot else to pick. Leucodendrons are easy to grow in the conditions they prefer, being full sun, good draining acid soil and staked to protect from strong winds until established. They will grow on dry banks and rough area's as long as they do not have to compete with grass and weeds. Leucodendrons resent any type of fertiliser, will not cope with hard frosts and once established will die if shifted. There are leucodendrons which grow very large, low spreaders which look great spilling over walls, low bushy types, they all add wonderful colour to a dull winter garden.     Ponds: I have been removing leaves from my ponds before they break down and turn into bottom pond sludge which if left will build up and decrease the water dept. Leaves are easier to remove than sludge and with my ponds containing fish they need the depth. Sludge is very normal and under most conditions is not going to pose any significant problems unless severe. The decomposition process of the organic material will reduce oxygen levels which will begin to cause harm to other living things in the pond environment starting with the beneficial bacteria.  

Vegetables 

Keep planting out seedling veg plants, board beans and garlic along with rhubarb and asparagus crowns here on the coast. 

Those with glass or tunnel houses will be cleaning them out about now, removing all old summer produce, sterilizing and building up again with fresh compost. It is a shame that Jeyes fluid is now not available to use for sterilizing both glass house and soil, if you do have some tucked away in a shed it would be much sort after by an organic gardener. An alternative sterilizing agent is diluted bleach. Dilution is the means by which bleach is used as a disinfectant, mixed with water in the amount of one part bleach to nine parts water. Wash off any soil or organic matter before disinfecting. Jeyes fluid was used to sterilize soil in glass houses without contaminating soil but bleach will contaminate soil so I have researched a method that will do the trick but you may need to wait until warmer spring days. 

Sun sterilization: work the soil until loose and friable and test moisture level by squeezing a hand full. If soil sticks together while squeezed then falls apart when your hand is opened the soil is appropriately moist for sterilization using sun energy. Irrigate soil if it is too dry, as moisture conducts heat and facilitates the sterilization process. Dig a 4- to 6-inch trench around the area selected for solarization, Placing the trench soil around the outside perimeter of the area. Lay polyethylene over the selected area, allowing it to extend into the trench on all sides. Shovel the trench soil onto the plastic in the trench to keep the plastic tight. Make a small hole in the plastic and insert a soil thermometer or temperature probe. Check the temperature daily. Aim for a minimum of four weeks with soil temperatures in the 110- to 125-degree Fahrenheit range. If the weather turns cool or cloudy, it can take up to eight weeks to achieve optimum results. This is not a precise science and requires individual judgment. Remove the plastic when the process is complete. 

  

Cheers, Linda 

                                                        

Gardening in North Otago June 5th 2019

                                                                              

Cool week after the rain, frost cloth is in place for me on plantings I am hoping will keep growing roots and flower at the end of winter, or even during winter in sunny areas,
 however aafter rain in June the ground will stay damp and cold so I think we can say goodbye to the mild out of season growth we have been enjoying and  plants and bulbs will know for sure what season we are experiencing.


My hellebore's have had all old leaves removed because they were very infested with greenfly wintering over, waiting to pounce onto my roses come Spring. Now beautiful winter rose flowers will pop up and flower without being hidden by leaves and look wonderful in sad winter gardens. 


Perennials can be divided if overgrown, plant rooted cuttings from the outer edges of the clumps.


Dahlias have been halted by frost, mine are blackened and will die back into the tubers. When they dry out cut back at ground level and mulch for protection. if where you have them is not draining well tubers will probably rot. They can be dug out and stored in moist sawdust and plant again when frosts are over.   

Lilium bulbs can still be planted, these are best planted in raised beds and roots should never dry out. 


Roses are looking bare and stalky now, don't be tempted to cut, leave pruning until the end of July when they can be taken well back to an outward facing buds which will plump up gradually to become new spring growth.

Buxus (Box hedging) Re-pot container grown buxus every second year or if they look pot bound.Trim the outer roots and replace potting mix. They make a huge amount of roots every year that are not all needed.

Spots of winter colour: Plant polyanthus for a bright patch of colour, a few poly's in a pot is all that's needed to brighten up any doorway. Pansies, viola's, wall flower, primula melacoidies,  ornamental kale and, poppies and sweet peas planted now will all flower early.

Wisterias:  once wisterias have lost all their leaves prune off all long and unruly canes because if you don't they will entwine themselves around established branches and keep growing thicker each year.

Vegetables: On the coast sow broad beans, garlic, shallots and rhubarb.
Colder areas nothing much can be planted.  

Fruit: Now all leaves have fallen pip fruit trees can be pruned to ensure good cropping next season, Feijoas, figs, olives can be pruned when finished harvesting. Lemon bushes should be left until frosts are passed, they do not need to be pruned every year.

Stone fruit, almonds and plums should have been pruned in Autumn but remove any old remaining fruit and leave to hard prune in summer / autumn after fruiting.

1. 
   

Cheers, Linda.

                                                                     

Gardening in North Otago May 28th 2019

Camellia  sasanqua (mixed shades)

Here we are now almost June and still mild as I write this, it often looks like rain but alas only a dampening so far so have been watering new plantings and plants that look parched. Shallow rooted rhododendrons, azaleas, camellias and maples need a good soak during a very dry Autumn. The mild weather has encouraged another batch of weeds, I see chickweed everywhere, hoeing before it clumps will deal to it until heavy frosts arrive to wipe it out.

We have some lovely autumn flowering sasanqua camellias putting on a show, it almost seems wrong with every plant near by shutting down for winter. You will probably see these lovely flowering camellias on offer in Garden centres, the perfect shrub to add interest to a garden in late autumn early winter.

I have also needed to dampen my compost heaps with polythene to get things heating, old carpet covering also works well. 

Roses: I picked the last bunch of summer roses this week, we need some hard frosts to harden stems and take care of fungus and bugs.  Later in the month I will spray Lime Sulphur first which defoliates bushes then wait several weeks before spraying Champion Copper and Conqueror Oil usually leaving this second spray until after I have pruned in July.  New seasons, bare rooted roses arrive early in Garden centers these days, if planting prepare the ground by digging in old stable manure or bagged rose mix. If planting a rose in the same place a rose has been growing, you will need to remove most of the soil and replace with soil from another part of the garden, disease is transferred very quickly from one rose to another.  

Peony rose tubers need to be planted now before the coldest months, if you must shift or divide established peonies, this is the time. Peonies do not respond well to transplanting but if planted well will require little maintenance. Choose the location wisely, full sun, shelter from strong winds, away from trees or shrubs competing for food and moisture. Plant with eyes up (new shoot) in deep, fertile, humus-rich moist soil that drains well spaced 3 to 4 feet apart about 2 feet deep and 2 feet wide.

Last week I mentioned new seasons trees, I will list a few worth selecting below.

For large gardens: Fraxinus (ash) deciduous fast growing attractive shade trees 5m high in 5 years,( est )height 30 m. Golden ash / Claret ash and pendulous weeping ash.

Fagus (English beech): beautiful deciduous shade trees or hedging, 4m in 5 years (est) 30m, fagus sylvatica purpurea attractive wine leaves, Fagus sylvatica, fresh green.

Crataegus (hawthorne) Paul's scarlet, deciduous 3m in 5years,est 6m very hardy displaying full clusters of dark pink flowers in November.

Ginkgo biloba: Deciduous, colourful, unique foliage foliage, Pest and drought resistant mature height 13-20 m / mature width 12m, one for a shelter belt.

Smaller gardens: 

Gingo jade butterflies: unusual deciduous, dwarf slow growing vase shaped tree, jade leaves. 3m high 2m wide.

Gleditsia emerald cascade: A very attractive weeping form, smaller growing making an ideal garden focal point. 2m high by 3m wide.

Cotinus Goggygria / Grace (smoke bush) large spreading shrub, stunning plum coloured leaves, plumes of smoky pink flowers in summer. Height 2m after 5 years / 3m when mature. 

Michelia starbright: Very pretty, fragrant, evergreen large shrub with creamy-white blooms.Can be used for hedging or screening. Height 4m width 2m in 7/10 years.

Robinia lace lady: A deciduous, very daintily branched small leafed tree which will not not grow heavy hard wood branches or roots and can be kept to the size required.

Vegetable garden:

Keep planting shallots, butter crunch lettuce plants, beetroot and broad beans and keep water up until they get settled. Cover with frost cloth to protect from frost and birds when small.

Fruit: 

Tamarillos, if lucky enough to have these in your garden they will be hanging like jewels from almost bare branches, such a treat at this time of the year. Because the plants do not make hard wood they are frost tender but here on the coast in a sunny location they ripen and are ready to pick now. Tamarillos will grow from tip cuttings, a bush will last for a decade if protected during winter and prefer to be outside not in a glass house.

Feijoas are a treat right now as well, they do not ripen all at once, dropping from the bush when ripe.

Lemon “Meyer” are cold hardy and will fruit all year, if planting a new plant remove all flowers and small fruit for the first 3 years to get branch work established then it will produce for years. Plant where they get afternoon sun, feed with citrus food in early spring and early autumn.

NZ Cranberry(Myrtus ugni) has a taste combination of strawberry, pineapple and apple my Grandchildren pick and eat them when ever here. A small evergreen bush very fragrant when fruiting, can be hedged.

Cheers, Linda. 

NZ cranberry (Myrtus ugni)

Gardening in North Otago May 22nd 2019

                                                                         

Still very dry as I write this and the odd morning frost reminding us of winter approaching as growth is shutting down to rest over the colder months. Gardens are looking tired and messy with plants such as dahlia, perennial phlox, alstroemeria, Japanese anemone and salvia, along with annuals that flowered over summer and autumn all coming to an end. Don't wait around to see how much more flowering they will do, chop perennials back and remove annuals before they exhaust themselves making unwanted seed, however I always save seed heads from one or two. Once the cutting back is done fill gaps with annuals for new season colour. 

If worms are rare in your garden, this usually indicates that the organic content of the soil is very low, worms will always find manure but it needs to be spread as a layer low down under a soil bed for them to come up to it. This would be a daunting task to undertake in established gardens, although worth doing bit by bit when setting out new gardens where the soil is dry and has clay content.   

Deciduous trees and shrubs will come into retail outlets soon,  plan new plantings remembering they will grow both up and outwards.  If your ground tends to get wet and sticky in winter it would be a good idea to dig the area up now while the soil is easy to work with. Dig out the soil add peat or compost and blood and bone to it then fill back in again until you are ready to plant. If you know which deciduous trees and shrubs you require order them now from the garden centre and you will not miss out  

Very strong rambler roses can be pruned from now on cutting out any dead stems and cutting back all side stems on canes to with in 2-3 buds from the main steam. Shorten back vigorous leaders by about 1/3 to promote branching. If the bush is out of control like some of mine reduce the size with a hedge trimmer then cut some canes right out from ground level.

Lawns : Those who have had a good autumn lawn strike will probably have given the first cut, don't be too hard on new grass it is still very soft and roots will not be far down. An autumn sow needs to winter over to harden off, don't worry about the annual weeds that came up with the grass the first mowing and frosts will take care of most of them. Leave spraying until spring because you will not gain anything by doing it now and very new grass could be effected by harsh sprays. 

Rake leaves off lawns, if light is kept from grass it will suffer.  

Veg: Continue planting strawberries, raising the beds where drainage is suspect. it is still not too late to sow a green crop in vacant areas of the vegetable garden , oats or blue lupin are a good nitrogen fix when dug in. Broad beans are also suitable, better than a single variety is a mixture of legume and a cereal. Dig them in while still soft and green,this adds nitrogen and humus needed in soil.

Cheers, Linda.