Gardening in North Otago September 23rd 2019

Blossom, bulbs, birds, bee's, butterfly's new born lambs and calf's how I love Spring. Gardens are filling in with plants that have been waiting below ground for the right time to pop up and breath new life into the World around us. 

Rhododendrons and deciduous azalea's, how lovely they are right now, in my view equal to any beautiful tropical flowers. 

My roses are well in leaf now and aphids are colonizing on new buds but using the index finger and thumb removal method I am managing to control this, as leaves are still too soft to spray.Hellebore's are still looking wonderful but if you don't want hellebore seedlings germinating all through the garden cut out spent flowers before seed is dropped. 

Peony roses are well through now, supports around them before they bud up will help with heavy flower heads. Peonies need a lot of water and benefit from liquid fertiliser. If you planted new crowns for this season it would pay to let only one flower develop to allow growth to go into the crowns, then cut the one blooming flower off before it makes seed pods. Peony roses need full sun and do not like to be smothered by other plants.

Clematis are making good growth, hybrid's are those especially large flowered varieties, not the invasive pink and white montana type. You have to be quick in training hybrids where you want them to go while the trailers are still soft, they like a lot of feeding to take them to great heights. Manure, deep down with a little lime added when planting is beneficial. Don't worry if you have one with no buds just yet they all have different flowering times, If you planted a hybrbrid clematis this year let it flower then cut it to the ground, this will encourage it send up many more shoots and you will have a much bushier and stronger climber. Hybrids can also wilt and die for no reason if this happens cut it to the ground but don't dig out because I have known some to shoot away again the following year with no sign of wilt. 

I have been potting up old fashioned cottage flowers like cosmos, love in the mist, salvia blue bedder, Clary sage, and lavatera. These are all taller flowering annuals planted close together so they hold each other up. The more plants put in the less room for weeds to grow is the plan. All the plants mentioned will be flowering at Christmas, and then for ages after if dead headed regularly. 

Herbs: are making strong growth now in readiness for summer menus and drying, they need to be harvested often to stop running to seed. 

Vegetables: Still perfect Spring weather for growing all veg now the ground is so warm and moist. Board beans are doing well with no sign of rust, could it be the pinch of potash put in when planting? Peas are zooming up netting and it is warm enough to plant beans now. Keep planting veg seeds and plants, a few at a time so you can have the continuous thing happening. Thank goodness Bee's are about visiting blossom, especially early fruit blossom.

The Garden corner at our Resource Recovery Park is proving popular, thank you to all who have taken the trouble to bring in treasures from private gardens for us to pot up and share with Gardeners. Volunteers for half day periods welcome.

Gardening in North Otago September 19th 2019

Blossom time

Rain in North Otago last week  and what a difference it has made to new growth and the lawns. I was out in the rain with the lawn fertiliser to boost them even more. The hum of bees is back with the flowering cherries in blossom and what a magnificent display magnolias are making around North Otago.

It was a joy to be planting out bedding plants and putting the finishing touches to gardens when the sun shone last week. I think every gardener enjoys trying new plants and colour combinations and now is the perfect time to sow seeds for summer flowering, but keep an eye on germinated seeds with late frosts. Some I planted a couple of weeks ago and have been protecting are up and in need of transplanting and regular watering.  Pansy, alyssum, and lobelia with shallow  roots can go three or four to a pot until ready to plant out but those with longer deeper roots like lupin, hellebore and Oriental poppy need planted into their own individual small root pots. It is best to have well developed roots attached before planting out.

Birds will be scratching about in gardens looking for worms and grubs to feed their young, They usually concentrate on the front edge of a garden making a mess on paths and lawns,  if you have a problem with this, growing a mat forming boarder will deter them. Some boarder plants to consider are catmint, lambs ear, alyssum, alchenilla mollis, dwarf agapantha, armeria maritim (thrift), mondo grass, any low growing perennial plant that mats over soil.

Baskets and pots need to be thought about now, use only shallow rooted plants for baskets like pansy, lobelia, small type petunias, nemesia, and trailers like dwarf sweet pea, with the addition of slow release fertiliser and water Chrystal's to keep them going. The roots of what you want to plant will determine the size and depth of a pot.
I have removed a lot of old stalky lavenders that were on their final chance to thrive last growing season. English lavenders eventually get leggy and past it, don't nurse them thinking they will come back because they will probably not, dig them out and replace with new fresh plants.  Time to address root bound pots, most established potted shrubs respond well to being removed and half the roots removed with a sharp spade, then re potted in fresh mix with a good amount of plant food to suit the plant, Spring flowering potted shrubs can be re potted after flowering.Potted roses and hydrangeas need a deep pot which will not heat up and cook roots at the height of summer. Tin foil around the inside of a pot before filling,( shinny side facing out) will help keep roots cooler, for roses, camellias, azaleas, hydrangeas and small trees and shrubs. All potted plants need excellent drainage and a consistent supply of food and water. If a potted plant is left too dry for too long between watering's it will never thrive or look lush and healthy. 

Roses are really leafing up now and the warmer it becomes the more aphids ( green fly) will be about, aphids settle on the top new growth of rose bushes and are easily visible on new small leaves for you to dispose of by removing with finger and thumb. I leave spraying until leaves are well grown and have hardened up a little.
Lawns:
New lawns sown on the coast should result in a strike now that the ground is warmer, as I have mentioned before seed must be sown thickly in spring to beat the annual weeds. Keep the mower blades up when cutting spring grass to allow it to thicken and feed lawns just before or during rain and they will stay lush.
Vegetables:
 Here on the coast Plant lettuce plants at two week intervals and any spare ground could be planted out in seed potatoes. Plant corn and pumpkin family seeds and protect until frosts have past, both of these need a long ripening season. 
Fruit: Strawberries and rhubarb are starting to move, they need fed, watered and mulched, manure enriched compost then straw, pine needles or un sprayed grass clippings will do the trick.
Help required I am putting a call out for Volunteers who enjoy working with plants and the public for a half day helping out at The Resource Recovery Parks Garden corner which is proving popular to find a special plant or two. The Garden corner is open Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday and Sunday. If you are up for joining the team ring 0274430256.

Cheers, Linda.  

Gardening in North Otago September 9th 2019

New rose growth

Back to some very bleak days after experiencing the odd lovely spring day to fool us into thinking winter is behind us, what a difference a day makes when it comes to the garden and Gardeners!

Roses may need attention now:
Things to watch out for are die back after Winter, not all branches make the grade, if they have been affected cut them right back to new growth. Watch for growth below the graft, it comes up from the root stock, usually a different colour and leaf to the grafted branches. All roses are grafted onto strong disease resistant root stock of an insipid flowering rose. Cut it right out because it is stronger and will leave the grafted branches behind. 
Once leaves are fully out and have hardened spraying can begin to keep your bushes healthy, use what works well for you every 10 to 14 days if you are new to roses good old shield or guild will do the job, they combated both insects and disease.
I prefer maintaining mine organically by keeping them well fed and if needed spraying with fish emulsion and pyrethrum spray plus a natures way fungicide. Fish emulsion feeds the plants and fools the insects into thinking that the foliage is protein but it is not systemic so needs to be applied often.

Still too chilly to uncover seedling being nursed but I am pricking out from seed trays into rot trainers on warm days then returning them to protection.

If you were given a cyclamen in flower over winter it is now time to plant it outside in a cool shady spot to finish the growing year. Pot up just before next Winter to bring back inside to flower, they will continue to do this for many years. 

My perennial tall phlox and many other perennials are pushing up through pea straw now, I will start early this year with a copper spray well down into the root area in the hope the mildew problem can be solved. Tall phlox need to be grown in full sun to get the best result and the heady fragrance they waft through the garden in late afternoon is worth growing them mildew and all.

Lawns:
Grass is on the move again, always uneven and tufty until after the first mow. Have some lawn fertiliser on hand for the next rainy day to give a spring boost.  Once the ground warms a little lawn seed can be sown in areas affected by grass grub and moss.  I have been sowing grass seed in the areas of lawn that have been effected by grass grub. Cover small areas with weighted down frost cloth or shade cloth to keep birds off, this still allows light and moisture through and I leave it on until seed has germinated.
Sulphate of iron is great for getting rid of moss in lawns, buy a small bag from a garden centre, quantities for a watering can will be on the bag, once watered on effected areas leave until moss turns black then rake out.

Veg:
The nights have been still too cold for new young seedlings and plants without night protection. 
Get seed potatoes and peas in now and they should make good growth and be ready for Christmas and all herbs can go in now apart from basil (still too cold) 
Always harden new flower and veg plants before planting out, leave them outside in a sheltered lightly shaded spot for 2 or 3 days to get them used to your outside temperature, never plant them out in the heat of the day, they will only wilt and then take a while to recover.

Fruit:
Apricot and peach trees will be in blossom waiting for bee's, we need a few warm days in a row now.
Raspberry canes need attention while still manageable, Summer bearers produce berries on two year old canes while one year old canes grow right beside them. Older canes are brown and the new are green. In autumn older canes that finished a fruitful year should have been taken out and about 6 strong green canes left, remove all canes growing sideways. Tying new canes into hoops keeps them neat and easy to pick, left alone all summer rows will become thickets. To get best fruiting results raspberry canes need to be mulched right through the summer to retain needed moisture.
Rhubarb is on the move as well now, it will be looking for some good manure enriched compost.
Remember to check out the new Garden Corner at our Resource recovery Park which opened on the 7th Sept with lots of plant bargains. Donations of surplus garden plants from the public are really appreciated to keep our Volunteers busy potting up to sell. I will be explaining about this venture and garden related topics, including growing and landscape design at Paper plus on Thursday September 26th at 7pm, all interested welcome.

Cheers, Linda.

Continue protecting seedlings. 

Gardening in North Otago September 3rd 2019

Early spring at Rockvale Gardens Weston

Some beautiful early spring days experienced here in North Otago over the last week things are really moving in gardens now.

I have been re potting cuttings that made roots during winter, fresh potting mix to sustain the explosion of new leaf growth and flowers will ensure good results. Liquid fertilizer once a week can start now as well, I use a watering can, when leaves are dry of dew. Pansies, primulas, pollyanthus, sweet peas, lupins, all new seasons bedding plants respond daily to being feed now.

I am sure every gardener enjoys trying new plants and colour combinations, now is the perfect time to sow seeds for summer flowering, germination is fast when days are bright, warm and lengthening so we are off to a good start this spring. I have sown seeds under glass and some just under frost cloth, better still if you have a glass or tunnel house. 

Baskets and pots will need freshening up with new potting mix, slow release fertilizer and water crystals,  use only shallow rooted plants for baskets, pansy, lobelia, small type petunias, nemesia, and trailers like Virginia stock and dwarf sweet pea. To get best results the roots of what you want to plant will determine the size and depth of a pot or basket, they have a long growing season so depth is needed for roots.

Old woolen blankets cut to size and slit where plants are to be poked in are an economical alternative to bought basket liners, also I am experimenting with using disposable nappies in my hanging baskets, the water crystals for absorbing moisture are the same as what you buy for hanging baskets and pots. Place the nappy on top of the liner, slit the plastic cover over the crystals then add potting mix, plant out and water. The water crystals will absorb moisture for roots to grow into.

Too much garden to fill? the width of a flower garden can be cut down by planting a spreading front boarder, a boarder of the same plant will also formalize a busy mixed garden and cut down on weeding. Some boarder plants to consider are lambs ear, purple sage, aubretia, dwarf agapantha, catmint and ground cover

erica's will cover like a carpet not allowing weeds to grow and also prevent birds from scratching. A large clump of lambs ear can be divided into single plants. Silver is a perfect shade to use as a break between strong and soft shades and will grow in sun or semi shade.

Roses are pushing out new shoots, if you haven't pruned yet do it now before they leaf up and give them a dressing of rose food or manure / compost if you have some, well fed roses will stay healthy.

Dahlias, too early for planting tubers yet but the addition of dolomite lime where they are to be planted will sweeten the ground ready for planting next month.

Lawns:

Prepare ground for sowing new lawns, here on the coast ground will soon be warm enough to get a strike, sow seed thickly in spring to beat the annual weeds. Once spring mowing starts keep the mower blades up to allow grass to thicken and feed lawns just before or during rain and they will stay lush.

Vegetables:

Here on the coast sow lettuce seed and plant lettuce plants at two week intervals, my board beans are flowering, I was once told to plant each bean with a little pot ash to help with rust problems, they still get a little rust but I think that's probably due to them getting too dry between watering's. I will need to secure them with wire stakes before the strong winds arrive.

New potatoes: Prepare ground for planting sprouted early seed potatoes and they will be on time for Christmas dinner.

Strawberries: still haven't  prepared the strawberry bed yet, maybe this weekend.! when strawberry plants start moving they flower up quickly and need to be hooking into plenty of organic matter / food to support continual fruiting.

Fruit: keep an eye on peach / nectarine bud burst, if you need to deal to leaf curl. Leaf curl is a fungal disease which over winters in tree bark and around buds, leaves become curled and deformed with warty growths. Just before bud burst spray with Champion copper or liquid copper and once again after petal fall. 

If looking to fill gaps in your flower garden pop down to the Resource recovery park in Chelmer Street where a Garden corner has been introduced, annuals, perennials, shrubs, potted bulbs and natives are on offer along with second hand garden equipment and pots and sound garden advice.

Cheers, Linda.

Front boarder of lambs ear

Gardening in North Otago August 27th 2019

Magnolias shed their fury bud covers.

It's here! I can feel the throb of springs pulse fattening buds, pushing out bulbs, shedding magnolia's fury bud covers , birds nesting and bees humming in blossom trees.

 Sap is on the way up again so unwanted growth from prunus trees  (flowering cherry) can be removed, this is the time to make cuts in prunus to avoid the spread of silver leaf which can spread from tree to tree while in the dormant stage. Cut out  any weak growth and cross over branches before they grow thick. Kilmarnoch willows need old wood cut out as well, this is the ornamental pussy willow used so often now in small gardens. Each new branch grows out from the bud of last years growth. All subsequent years growth dies and builds up under the new growth. The grafted weeping tree is much nicer to look at with all those dead branches removed and it is easier to do this when bare of leaves. Another tree planted often today is robinia lace Lady, height and width can be taken of these now if becoming too big. To keep robinia lace Lady small they can be planted in a grow bag then bag and all planted into the soil, they make a very attractive dwarf tree for a small garden.

Sow seeds for late spring and summer flowering into seed trays, raise trays up off the cold ground and cover with glass or plastic to get good germination and water when dry with a mist spray early in the day.

Cuttings put into river sand in autumn should be pushing out roots soon as buds swell and burst,  once lifted and roots identified pot into small pots in a heavy potting mix then store in a warm location until roots fill pots. Only water when mix is dry on top as roots will be too small to take up moisture if over watered, once roots have pots have  either pot on into a larger pot or plant into the garden. 

Folia feed spring flowering plants (other than bulbs ) with liquid plant food to encourage strong growth and plant, plant,plant all the pretty spring seedlings on offer now. 

Cleaning out ponds is a must  in early spring before pond weed and plants  really take off,  if  oxygen weed is choking the pond reduce it now because as water looses it's chill fish begin notice each other again and eggs are blown into the weed. I over flow the ponds, clean out leaves and dead iris leaf leaving a good amount of sludge on the pond bottom. A couple of years ago a helper and I removed all the yellow bog iris's from the big pond, this was a much needed job because this common yellow iris was spreading so fast and took up a quarter of the pond with it's mat forming roots ( lesson learned, don't plant yellow bog iris in a domestic pond) The place for this iris is along the banks of a creek, the fibrous roots are fantastic at holding the sides back from erosion. Don't be tempted to add bull rushes to a domestic pond either, they also spread too quickly.

Lawns, 

Lawns benefit greatly from an early spring feed of lawn fertilizer,  this works best with rain to wash it in, if moss is a problem  sulphate of iron watered on from a watering can will deal to it. Rake it out once it has turned black.  Unfortunately too much soil is removed from new sections these days which means clay is not far down there for creating a solid moisture holding pan under soil. Gypsum ( soluble lime) will work on opening up clay without changing the ph of soil.

Vegetables:

Soil is warming with sun staying around longer so heaps to do in the veg garden as you ready it for planting. Spread old stable or pig manure and dig in while turning soil over, a metal rake will soon break up winter clods to fine soil down for direct seed sowing. Get pumpkin, butternut and squash and corn seeds started now under protection, they need a long warm growing season to grow and ripen. It's so good to be planting salad veg again especially while there are no white butterflies or aphids about. As an early season deterrent fish emulsion can be sprayed on both veg and flowering seedlings, this will feed the plants and repel pests by fooling them into thinking their favorite food is now protein not vegetable, repeat after rain.

Once seed potatoes have sprouted get them in the ground, when leaves appear start mounding soil up over most of the leaves to add soil depth which encourages plan

ts to make more potatoes.

Fruit: All deciduous fruit trees can still be planted in September, a wide selection will be available in garden centers now.  All fruits require a position in full sun, shelter from prevailing winds is preferable or a stake added for a couple of years until roots are well anchored. Spray stone fruit trees on bud burst with Super Copper to protect from leaf curl disease.

Strawberries: Delicious strawberries are easy to grow, in a home garden, as little as 25 plants can yield more than 50 pounds. Strawberries need at least six hours of direct sun daily and will do well with a dressing of fertilizer specifically formulated with extra potassium, regular irrigation and slightly acidic soil which can be achieved by adding coffee grinds and covering the bed in pine needles which also keep the weeds down and the fruit clean. All other berries on offer should be planted now to settle in to a season of fruiting

Cheers, Linda.

                    

Gardening in North Otago August 13th 2019

Magnolia buds just opening

What a good rain this week to set us up for spring growth. "Blossom by blossom the spring begins.”  Algernon Charles Swinburne  

Feeding plants:  Folia feeding is beneficial now as as the ground warms and plants are looking for nutrients. Worm tea, watered down horse or cow manure is a useful and inexpensive folia / root food especially around the roots of roses while they are pushing out new buds. Rose buds are swelling so if you still have them to prune get it done now.

At this time of the year I notice yellowing of some plants, the ground gets depleted of nitrogen during winter especially when plants are shallow rooted like camellias, azaleas and rhododendron, give them a feed with an acid fertiliser especially formulated for them( If powder water in)

Potted plants that make a lot of roots and have out grow their containers will soon show poor growth but these plants can be revived by either re-potting them into a larger pot or reducing the root mass by half then re-potting back into the same pot. I remove excess roots by removing the root bound plant from the pot, lay it on the ground then I use a sharp spade to chop the root ball in half. Once potted up again I apply slow release fertilizer the mix,  with all the slow release fertilisers on offer now it's makes it easy to choose the right one for all plants. rain will add more nutrients. 

Keep planting roses, peony roses and gladioli from now until September if dividing or planting lilies get them planted straight away, they never stop making roots and should never dry out.  

Cut back leggy,bush lavatera and they will bush up again in no time.

 Ornamental grass's  If you have not trimmed back ornamental grass's yet do it now, cut the old seeded ends well back and clean out the dead thatch around the base, its amazing how much you will need to cart away after this hair cut but they will grow back to their soft wafting shape in no time. Use what you have cut off as mulch around the garden, a cover for the compost or in the chook or calf pen  

Weeds: I imagine the weeds have started at your place as they have at ours and with the ground being so soft hand, and hoe weeding is really easy, get them out before they take off and seed everywhere, or dig them in before they seed. With temperatures  warming spraying weeds can soon begin.  

Lawns: Moss can be delt to in lawns, pathways and garden structures. There are a lot of products out there to deal with moss but killing the moss in lawns is simply a short term measure, it does not address the basic problem. If you really want to eradicate moss from your lawn, then you have to find the problem causing it. The reasons are varied, but not too difficult to isolate.

Things that would be causing moss in your lawn could be:

Water logging 

Poor feeding regime - usually shown by light green grass.

Soil too acid - carry out a test, lime may be needed.

Shaded Lawns - overhanging trees or large shrubs.

Mowing lawns too close is a very common cause, for it weakens the grass allowing moss to take hold.

Sandy - free-draining soils. This can weaken the grass and allow moss to take over. Some mosses are quite happy in these conditions. Add humus (compost or sieved soil) to add more body and rake in, this will encourage worms as well. 

Compaction - continued use by children and pets with no remedial attention by way of aeration in the Autumn.

Treating small areas of moss in lawns can be carried out with sulphate of iron watered on at the strength displayed on the pack per sq meter, moss will turn black and after a couple of weeks you can rake out the dead moss and re-seed. Generally, lawns that are well maintained which includes being well fed, cut properly, aerated and de-thatched  moss will have a problem competing with strong growing grass in lawns.  The first spring feeding can be done when the next rain is about to happen.

Vegetables: Pick winter crops while still at their best - Fold cauliflower leaves over and tie to protect from frost and keep florets tight.  Here on the coast get spring sowings off to an early start now. 

Asparagus is a vegetable that repays planting over many years. To prepare beds cultivate deeply and add generous amounts of compost. Existing asparagus beds should be cultivated carefully to avoid damaging the crowns that lie just below the surface, add a new layer of mulch. 

Sprouted Potatoes can go into the ground now for  an early crop, people have been telling me of the benefits gained from planting potatoes on a bed of pine needles, I lay them on comfrey leaves, they decompose fast in the soil making plant food quickly available.

Further inland soil will take a bit of thawing out before any planting but the garden can be prepare by digging in compost / humus.  

Fruit: My peach tree is just at bud burst right now so will spray with a copper spray for leaf curl, once in blossom it is too late to spray. If you have not already pruned your peach or nectarine tree I will run through how to go about it, recovery will be quicker now the sap has risen.

1. For the glass shape pick four main scaffold branches and simplify, cut larger branches needing removed close to the trunk, leave a collar, it will encourage tree borer.

2. Remove small weak upright branches on trunk or main branches.

3. Leave 50 to 75% pencil thick shooting wood per tree.

Both peach and nectarine fruit on wood developed last summer. Inspect the buds on newer wood, single buds are leaf buds, double buds are immature fruit buds and triple buds are mature fruit buds. Cut to an outward facing double bud, leave triples.

Cheers, Linda  

Potatoes on comfrey leaves 

Gardening in North Otago August 7th 2019

Lavender dentata hedge.

Brrrr the cold arrived this

week but very tame compared to other places,  which seems to be North Otago's way.

Much is beginning to awake in the garden, I feel spring in the air with swelling of buds and  birds are beginning to nest also I see blossom starting , jonquils and daffodils gracing fence lines about the town. We are coming to the end of pruning with cold, rose prickled fingers, wheel barrows of rose and hydrangea pruning. I have also been dealing to couch grass while the soil is damp, right now couch is dormant and easy to pull but getting right down and scratching out roots is the answer, it is so satisfying to pull a root runner right to it's and know that that will be the end of it.

 It is now time for me to create and dress the garden by planting out, shifting and feeding. I have been liquid feeding with worm and comfrey tea, adding at the strength of black tea to a full watering can, then applied generously to all new leaf, budding and flowering plants.  Any new plantings can be Helped along along by feeding now to get roots going and keep them green and strong through any cold snaps yet to come. Slow release fertiliser is a great idea now as well, sprinkle around established ornamental and newly planted trees and shrubs to be there ready when the plants need food as they awaken. Spread old stable manure around the drip line of hydrangeas and a dressing of lime for pink flowers and aluminum sulphate for blue, White never changes, but are best planted in light shade, the flowers will tinge pink in the full sun. It is easy to control the colour of hydrangea's in a pot, if the PH of your soil is high blue hydrangeas will always revert to pink no matter how often you add aluminum to the soil. If your PH is too high and you really want to grow blue hydrangeas in large pots use a acid tree and shrub mix. The use of coffee grinds, grass clippings or pine needles spread around the drip line can help to lower the PH of pink hydrangeas in the garden to encourage shades of purple. I have found pulling rooted branches from the base of big old gnarly hydrangea bush can become a new bush of a special variety.  

Geranium ccuttings from the hardened steams can be taken now, fresh grown geraniums give amazing colour to a warm sunny garden for all of the growing season and even into the winter. Take short cuttings, semi hard wood, (not a new green steam) and let them dry out a little before planting, this means you don't have to deal with them straight away. Plant them firmly into a soil and river sand mix, (Potting mix is too light to get a tight seal around the cutting). 

Lavender: Trim dentata lavender now if you haven't already, and it is looking untidy. Dentata is the tall growing one with the pale lavender bumblebee flower and serrated leaf.They will recover quickly from a cut back because they are budding up now, but Leave trimming other lavenders right back until it is warmer. Lavenders, clematis and all herbs like sweetening up with a dressing of lime now. 

Lavatera, English abutilon and buddleia bushes can be cut back now  to encourage fresh new growth ready for butterflies. 

Roses:  with roses making a move to bud up they will be needing food to draw on, powdered rose food needs watered in around the drip line, slow release fertiliser will work each time it rains. 

New seasons trees and Roses are still available in Garden Centers and  masses of bedding plants on offer now ground temperature warming up. 

Vegetables: The vegetable garden enjoyed the last rain, it is so good not to have to worry about the bugs during these colder months when planting out leaf veg. Cold and frosty areas inland can make a start now by adding some compost and a little lime in readiness for when you plant out later this month. 

Fruit: Lets hope the dull overcast days are over by the time the fruit trees blossom so the bee's will come out and set to work pollinating . Keep an eye on peach and nectarine trees, if they are just at bud burst it will be time to spray a copper fungicide to prevent leaf curl. When they are in flower it is too late to spray. 

Cheers, Linda  

Peach trees: spray with copper at bud burst to help with leaf curl

Peach and nectarine leaf curl